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Artifact Labeling 101
Presented by Emily Phillips and Carolyn Frisa, from The Collections
Care and Conservation Alliance
 
• allows you to maintain inventory control of your
collections
Why Label Artifacts in Your Historical
Society of Museum?
• can provide some security in the event of theft or
other disaster
• the label acts as the physical connection between
the artifact and its documentation and any other
information
• Can methods of labeling be standardized across
your collections?
Questions to consider when developing a
labeling policy:
• Are labeling procedures part of your collections
management policy? If not, is it written down
anywhere?
• Who makes the decisions about labeling in your
institution?
• When is the best time to label artifacts already in
your collection? What about new acquisitions?
Questions to consider when developing a
labeling policy:
• Can all of the artifacts be marked in a way that
does not cause damage?
• Are the labeling materials safe to use for the
person who is handling them? Are any health and
safety precautions necessary? Are they easy to
use?
• Should labels be reversible? Easy to remove?
Questions to consider when developing a
labeling policy:
• What do you do with pre-existing labels that may
no longer be relevant?
• What do you do with labels on artifacts that your
institution is deaccessioning? Who removes
them? What is the policy?
• Does your institution ever accept loans? How are
these labeled?
Where should you put the label?
“Mark objects in an accessible locations that is not
visible to the public when on display. Choose stable
surfaces unlikely to be destroyed by abrasion.
Avoid marking places where an object sits (e.g. its
base), where it will be touched when routinely
handled, and where the surface is flaking or
damaged.”
-American Institute for Conservation & American
Association Museums
Where should you put the label?
The type of artifact determines the most
appropriate place for a label, but try to label like
artifacts in a similar place.
Graphite ‘B’ pencil on the lower right verso
corner of a photograph.
Example: 1940s silver gelatin
photograph
Where should you put the label?
General Precautions
• don’t write on the front of artifact - this is more
common than you might think!
• don’t place adhesive labels directly on the artifact.
• Avoid marking on or near areas of damage such as
tears, chips, abrasions, cracks, etc.
• Don’t write on the base of objects. This causes
unnecessary handling and the labels can rub off.
Sometimes it isn’t safe or possible to
place the label directly on the artifact.
Whenever you are dealing with potentially
complicated artifacts, it is always best to consult a
conservator first. CCCA has objects, paintings, and
paper conservators who can help answer these
questions.
Printed paper label adhered to the outside of
the housing enclosure.
Example: glass plate
negatives.
Don’t forget to add extra labels when the
object is in storage.
Adding extra labels to housing enclosures and to
the artifacts in storage can dramatically reduce
unnecessary handling and wasted time searching
for an artifact. Add digital photos when possible.
Digital photo printed on Permadur on
outside of pamphlet box.
Example: pamphlet in
four-flap enclosure
What is the right type of label for the
artifact?
Different types of artifacts require different types of
labels.
Labels can be tied to the artifact. Labels can be applied to the artifact
on top of a barrier coat.
Sometimes labels can be written on the
housing enclosures only.
Guidelines for Labeling Textiles
Do’s
• Label each textile individually.
• Do use twill tape labeled marked
with pencil.
• Stitch cotton tape to artifact with
only 1 or 2 stitches at each end.
• Use white cotton thread for and a
small gauge needle.
• Label textiles in the same place
for each type.
example: stitch label onto the
lower right corner on the back of
flat textiles
Don’ts
• Don’t just label one part (i.e only
one glove in a pair).
• Don’t write directly on the fabric,
especially with pens or inks.
• Don’t create unnecessary
stitches.
• Don’t use colored threads unless
they are known to be stable.
• Don’t adhere adhesive labels to
textiles  staining will occur and
the adhesive can damage fibers.
Unbleached white cotton twill tape is ideal. It is available from
conservation suppliers and costs approximately $13 for a 72 yard roll. It
can also be used for tying labels onto other types of objects. Thread and
needles can be obtained from a local fabric store. B pencils can be
found at art supply stores.
White Cotton Twill Tape White cotton thread and needle.
Materials for Labeling Textiles
“B” graphite pencils
Guidelines for Labeling Objects – glass, metals,
ceramics and other inorganic materials
Do’s
• Label each object individually.
• If there are pieces that can be
easily detached, make sure these
are also labeled.
• Do apply a barrier resin (B-67 or
B-72 in acetone) to the object
prior to applying the label.
• Use Micron pigma pens to write
labels or print labels on acid-free,
buffered papers such as
Permadur.
• Label objects in the same place
for each type.
Don’ts
• Don’t just label one part.
• Don’t write directly on the object.
• Don’t use metal-nibbed pens or
quills  they will irreversibly
scratch or mar the surface.
• Don’t use barriers or inks that
have not been tested by
conservators (i.e. nail polish,
permanent markers, etc.).
• Don’t adhere adhesive labels to
objects.
• Don’t use colored inks (black
only).
Pre-mixed barriers (lacquers) are available from conservation suppliers
and cost around $8.00 and are come in clear and opaque white with
brush applicators. These can be used with pencils or pigma pens.
Labels can also be printed on acid- and lignin-free paper (available from
conservation suppliers) and adhered with the B-72 while wet.
For written labels, a barrier coat should be applied first and allowed to
dry. A second top coat should be applied after the numbers have dried.
Clear and Opaque White B-72
Lacquer in Acetone
Printed paper labels.Micron Pigma Pens - Black
Materials for Labeling Objects – glass, metals,
ceramics and other inorganic materials
Guidelines for Labeling Objects – rubber, leather,
wood, feathers and organic materials
Do’s
• Label each object individually.
• Do attach paper labels with soft
cotton thread.
• Use pencils or Micron pigma pens
to write labels or print labels on
acid-free, buffered papers such as
Permadur.
• Label objects in the same place
for each type.
• Label the outside of all housing
materials.
Don’ts
• Don’t just label one part.
• Don’t write directly on the object.
• Don’t use barrier layers (lacquers)
because they contain potentially
harmful solvents.
• Don’t use pens inks that have not
been tested by conservators
(permanent markers, etc.).
• Don’t adhere adhesive labels to
objects.
• Don’t use colored inks (black
only).
Archival tag kits are available from conservation suppliers and offer a
safe and easy to apply labeling system. A pack of 100 tags costs from
approximately $15 to $25 depending upon the size of the tag.
Acid- and lignin-free tags with
cotton ties
“B” graphite pencils &
black pigma pens
Materials for Labeling Objects – rubber,
leather, wood, feathers and organic materials
Printed paper labels.
Guidelines for Labeling Paper-Based Artifacts
Do’s
• Do write on the reverse of the
paper artifact.
• Use a soft ‘B’ pencil and do not
press down when writing.
• Label paper artifacts in the same
place on the reverse.
• Do label secondary supports and
framing materials (mats, mounts,
backings).
• Do label the outside of all
housing materials, including
boxes, folders, and frames.
Don’ts
• Don’t write on the front of the
paper artifact.
• Don’t use mechanical pencils or
hard pencils.
• Don’t use pens or inks of any
kind.
• Don’t use barrier layers (lacquers)
because they contain potentially
harmful solvents.
• Don’t adhere adhesive labels to
paper artifacts.
• Don’t clip or staple labels to
paper artifacts.
Only soft “B” graphite pencils should be used for marking paper. Write
gently to avoid leaving a permanent impression. Labeling kits for boxes
are available from conservation suppliers in a variety of sizes. For
example a set of 100 2.5” x 3.75” labels costs approximately $15.00.
You can add digital images and text and then print hem on a laser
printer. Or you can print your own labels on acid-free, buffered paper.
“B” graphite pencils Printed labels and Melinex
sleeves for boxes.
Printed paper label with
digital image.
Materials for Labeling Paper-Based Artifacts
Guidelines for Labeling Paintings
Do’s
• Do provide each painting with a
label(s).
• Apply a label to the backing
board. This can be written on the
board directly with a soft ‘B’
pencil.
• Apply a paper tag with a cotton
string to the framing hardware.
Don’ts
• Don’t write on directly on the
front or back of the painting.
• Don’t write directly on the frame.
• Don’t use pens or inks of any
kind.
• Don’t use barrier layers (lacquers)
because they contain potentially
harmful solvents.
• Don’t adhere adhesive labels to
the painting or framing materials.
• Don’t use metal wire to attach
the paper tags.
Only soft “B” graphite pencils should be used for marking the labels.
Archival tag kits are available from conservation suppliers and offer a
safe and easy to apply labeling system. Or you can print your own
labels on acid-free, buffered paper and attach them with cotton thread.
“B” graphite pencils Acid- and lignin-free tags
with cotton ties
Materials for Labeling Paintings
Material
• acid-free, chemically inert labels,
tags, paper, etc.
• Acryloid B-72 and B-76 (premixed
in acetone)
• Twill cotton tape
• “B” graphite pencils, small (000-
000) brushes, Pigma pens
• Glide dental floss
• Small gauge needle and white
cotton thread
Suppliers
• Gaylord, Light Impressions, Talas,
University Products
• Gaylord, Talas, University
Products
• Gaylord, Talas, University
Products
• Talas, local art supply stores
• Local drugstores
• Local fabric store
List of Suppliers for Labeling Materials
Collections Care and Conservation
Alliance
Working together to care for New England’s
cultural collections
 
collectionscare@gmail.com Tel. (802)428-4188
www.collectionscarealliance.wordpress.com and be sure to find us on Facebook

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Artifact Labeling 101

  • 1. Artifact Labeling 101 Presented by Emily Phillips and Carolyn Frisa, from The Collections Care and Conservation Alliance  
  • 2. • allows you to maintain inventory control of your collections Why Label Artifacts in Your Historical Society of Museum? • can provide some security in the event of theft or other disaster • the label acts as the physical connection between the artifact and its documentation and any other information
  • 3. • Can methods of labeling be standardized across your collections? Questions to consider when developing a labeling policy: • Are labeling procedures part of your collections management policy? If not, is it written down anywhere? • Who makes the decisions about labeling in your institution?
  • 4. • When is the best time to label artifacts already in your collection? What about new acquisitions? Questions to consider when developing a labeling policy: • Can all of the artifacts be marked in a way that does not cause damage? • Are the labeling materials safe to use for the person who is handling them? Are any health and safety precautions necessary? Are they easy to use?
  • 5. • Should labels be reversible? Easy to remove? Questions to consider when developing a labeling policy: • What do you do with pre-existing labels that may no longer be relevant? • What do you do with labels on artifacts that your institution is deaccessioning? Who removes them? What is the policy? • Does your institution ever accept loans? How are these labeled?
  • 6. Where should you put the label? “Mark objects in an accessible locations that is not visible to the public when on display. Choose stable surfaces unlikely to be destroyed by abrasion. Avoid marking places where an object sits (e.g. its base), where it will be touched when routinely handled, and where the surface is flaking or damaged.” -American Institute for Conservation & American Association Museums
  • 7. Where should you put the label? The type of artifact determines the most appropriate place for a label, but try to label like artifacts in a similar place. Graphite ‘B’ pencil on the lower right verso corner of a photograph. Example: 1940s silver gelatin photograph
  • 8. Where should you put the label? General Precautions • don’t write on the front of artifact - this is more common than you might think! • don’t place adhesive labels directly on the artifact. • Avoid marking on or near areas of damage such as tears, chips, abrasions, cracks, etc. • Don’t write on the base of objects. This causes unnecessary handling and the labels can rub off.
  • 9. Sometimes it isn’t safe or possible to place the label directly on the artifact. Whenever you are dealing with potentially complicated artifacts, it is always best to consult a conservator first. CCCA has objects, paintings, and paper conservators who can help answer these questions. Printed paper label adhered to the outside of the housing enclosure. Example: glass plate negatives.
  • 10. Don’t forget to add extra labels when the object is in storage. Adding extra labels to housing enclosures and to the artifacts in storage can dramatically reduce unnecessary handling and wasted time searching for an artifact. Add digital photos when possible. Digital photo printed on Permadur on outside of pamphlet box. Example: pamphlet in four-flap enclosure
  • 11. What is the right type of label for the artifact? Different types of artifacts require different types of labels. Labels can be tied to the artifact. Labels can be applied to the artifact on top of a barrier coat. Sometimes labels can be written on the housing enclosures only.
  • 12. Guidelines for Labeling Textiles Do’s • Label each textile individually. • Do use twill tape labeled marked with pencil. • Stitch cotton tape to artifact with only 1 or 2 stitches at each end. • Use white cotton thread for and a small gauge needle. • Label textiles in the same place for each type. example: stitch label onto the lower right corner on the back of flat textiles Don’ts • Don’t just label one part (i.e only one glove in a pair). • Don’t write directly on the fabric, especially with pens or inks. • Don’t create unnecessary stitches. • Don’t use colored threads unless they are known to be stable. • Don’t adhere adhesive labels to textiles  staining will occur and the adhesive can damage fibers.
  • 13. Unbleached white cotton twill tape is ideal. It is available from conservation suppliers and costs approximately $13 for a 72 yard roll. It can also be used for tying labels onto other types of objects. Thread and needles can be obtained from a local fabric store. B pencils can be found at art supply stores. White Cotton Twill Tape White cotton thread and needle. Materials for Labeling Textiles “B” graphite pencils
  • 14. Guidelines for Labeling Objects – glass, metals, ceramics and other inorganic materials Do’s • Label each object individually. • If there are pieces that can be easily detached, make sure these are also labeled. • Do apply a barrier resin (B-67 or B-72 in acetone) to the object prior to applying the label. • Use Micron pigma pens to write labels or print labels on acid-free, buffered papers such as Permadur. • Label objects in the same place for each type. Don’ts • Don’t just label one part. • Don’t write directly on the object. • Don’t use metal-nibbed pens or quills  they will irreversibly scratch or mar the surface. • Don’t use barriers or inks that have not been tested by conservators (i.e. nail polish, permanent markers, etc.). • Don’t adhere adhesive labels to objects. • Don’t use colored inks (black only).
  • 15. Pre-mixed barriers (lacquers) are available from conservation suppliers and cost around $8.00 and are come in clear and opaque white with brush applicators. These can be used with pencils or pigma pens. Labels can also be printed on acid- and lignin-free paper (available from conservation suppliers) and adhered with the B-72 while wet. For written labels, a barrier coat should be applied first and allowed to dry. A second top coat should be applied after the numbers have dried. Clear and Opaque White B-72 Lacquer in Acetone Printed paper labels.Micron Pigma Pens - Black Materials for Labeling Objects – glass, metals, ceramics and other inorganic materials
  • 16. Guidelines for Labeling Objects – rubber, leather, wood, feathers and organic materials Do’s • Label each object individually. • Do attach paper labels with soft cotton thread. • Use pencils or Micron pigma pens to write labels or print labels on acid-free, buffered papers such as Permadur. • Label objects in the same place for each type. • Label the outside of all housing materials. Don’ts • Don’t just label one part. • Don’t write directly on the object. • Don’t use barrier layers (lacquers) because they contain potentially harmful solvents. • Don’t use pens inks that have not been tested by conservators (permanent markers, etc.). • Don’t adhere adhesive labels to objects. • Don’t use colored inks (black only).
  • 17. Archival tag kits are available from conservation suppliers and offer a safe and easy to apply labeling system. A pack of 100 tags costs from approximately $15 to $25 depending upon the size of the tag. Acid- and lignin-free tags with cotton ties “B” graphite pencils & black pigma pens Materials for Labeling Objects – rubber, leather, wood, feathers and organic materials Printed paper labels.
  • 18. Guidelines for Labeling Paper-Based Artifacts Do’s • Do write on the reverse of the paper artifact. • Use a soft ‘B’ pencil and do not press down when writing. • Label paper artifacts in the same place on the reverse. • Do label secondary supports and framing materials (mats, mounts, backings). • Do label the outside of all housing materials, including boxes, folders, and frames. Don’ts • Don’t write on the front of the paper artifact. • Don’t use mechanical pencils or hard pencils. • Don’t use pens or inks of any kind. • Don’t use barrier layers (lacquers) because they contain potentially harmful solvents. • Don’t adhere adhesive labels to paper artifacts. • Don’t clip or staple labels to paper artifacts.
  • 19. Only soft “B” graphite pencils should be used for marking paper. Write gently to avoid leaving a permanent impression. Labeling kits for boxes are available from conservation suppliers in a variety of sizes. For example a set of 100 2.5” x 3.75” labels costs approximately $15.00. You can add digital images and text and then print hem on a laser printer. Or you can print your own labels on acid-free, buffered paper. “B” graphite pencils Printed labels and Melinex sleeves for boxes. Printed paper label with digital image. Materials for Labeling Paper-Based Artifacts
  • 20. Guidelines for Labeling Paintings Do’s • Do provide each painting with a label(s). • Apply a label to the backing board. This can be written on the board directly with a soft ‘B’ pencil. • Apply a paper tag with a cotton string to the framing hardware. Don’ts • Don’t write on directly on the front or back of the painting. • Don’t write directly on the frame. • Don’t use pens or inks of any kind. • Don’t use barrier layers (lacquers) because they contain potentially harmful solvents. • Don’t adhere adhesive labels to the painting or framing materials. • Don’t use metal wire to attach the paper tags.
  • 21. Only soft “B” graphite pencils should be used for marking the labels. Archival tag kits are available from conservation suppliers and offer a safe and easy to apply labeling system. Or you can print your own labels on acid-free, buffered paper and attach them with cotton thread. “B” graphite pencils Acid- and lignin-free tags with cotton ties Materials for Labeling Paintings
  • 22. Material • acid-free, chemically inert labels, tags, paper, etc. • Acryloid B-72 and B-76 (premixed in acetone) • Twill cotton tape • “B” graphite pencils, small (000- 000) brushes, Pigma pens • Glide dental floss • Small gauge needle and white cotton thread Suppliers • Gaylord, Light Impressions, Talas, University Products • Gaylord, Talas, University Products • Gaylord, Talas, University Products • Talas, local art supply stores • Local drugstores • Local fabric store List of Suppliers for Labeling Materials
  • 23. Collections Care and Conservation Alliance Working together to care for New England’s cultural collections   collectionscare@gmail.com Tel. (802)428-4188 www.collectionscarealliance.wordpress.com and be sure to find us on Facebook