The document provides information on water-wise landscaping that is adapted to Wyoming's climate and challenges. It recommends closely observing your property to understand the site conditions, such as soil type, sunlight, wind, and wildlife. Proper planning includes sketching the property, noting these conditions, and deciding on landscape features. Choosing plants suited to the site helps reduce workload and saves water. Maintaining plants with similar water needs and hardiness zones supports successful landscaping.

1. The right plants in the right place
Water-wise landscaping
W ant a great looking landscape
without using a ton of water?
That is what water-wise landscap-
addition to those on the map shown
include:
• What types of wildlife inhabit
property) – a single house can
create at least four microcli-
mates – north side creates a
ing is all about. Water-wise landscap- your property or the surrounding cooler, shady area with more
ing is simply creating a landscape area constant temperatures; south
that fits our climate (with Wyoming’s • Soil types and quality (more on side is hotter with more temper-
annual average precipitation of 12.68 this later) ature extremes; west is exposed
inches). Landscaping in Wyoming • Amount of sunlight in different to strong sun and the most win-
also must be adapted to a number areas ter winds; east is sheltered from
of other challenges including plenti- • Amount and direction of wind in many winds and has a more
ful wind (in some parts of the state), different areas moderate climate in general.
hungry wildlife, intense sunlight, • How water moves across your • Existing plants such as trees and
variable weather (hail, cold, and, in property shrubs that you’d like to retain in
some areas, heat), and alkaline soils. • General seasonal high and your landscape.
Landscaping must also fit your needs low temps (knowing your U.S. Once you have in mind the gen-
including budget, time, interests, and Department of Agriculture Plant eral conditions of your property, next
family activities. Remember that not Hardiness Zone can help with consider what uses or features you’d
doing any traditional “landscaping” is selecting cold-tolerant plants) like in a landscape. Do you want a turf
also an option and one that might be • General topography (cold air area for the kids? Do you need a path
least time intensive. moves down hill in general) to the barn? Would you like a vegeta-
The key to successful water-wise • Microclimates (smaller areas ble and/or flower garden and area for
landscaping is choosing plants to fit with significantly different a compost pile? Do you have a view
the site, not trying to change the site climates than the rest of your you’d like to block or frame? Limiting
to fit your plants. Some site manipula-
tion can be accomplished, but save it
for the plants and landscape features
that are your top priorities (such as a
vegetable garden or cherished shrub).
How to Start
The first thing to do is closely
observe your property. Take time to
note some things about
it. Sketching a quick
map of your prop-
erty and making
some notes on it
can be a useful tool
in planning your
landscape.
Items you’ll
want to note in
6 B A R N Y A R D S & B A C KYA R D S

2. the water tends to move outwards
as well as down. Therefore, you may
need to apply water slowly to allow
it to soak in (drip emitters, soaker
hoses, etc., apply water slowly). Clay
soils hang onto water longer so wa-
tering infrequently but deeply fits the
bill.
Vegetables tend to like “rich” soils
and constant moisture. If you have a
vegetable garden in your landscape,
annual applications of well compos-
ted organic matter will help it thrive.
Selecting plants
Once you have decided what
functions and features you’d like in
your landscape, you can now have
fun choosing plants and thinking
the size of more resource-intensive understanding of soils and their is-
about how they will be grouped.
areas such as a vegetable garden sues. If you don’t know what type of
Some general tips in choosing
or lawn to just what you need will soil you have, you can get it tested at
plants for landscapes are:
reduce your work load and the invest- a variety of testing labs for a fee (con-
• Make sure your plants are har-
ment of water and other inputs over tact your local University of Wyoming
dy enough for your site, and, in
the long run. A rough sketch of these Extension office to find about the labs
general, choose plants that will
areas on your map will give you a in your area). In general, many native
be happy with the conditions
feel for how things will look and how or well-adapted plants do not require
you have. Knowing the USDA
people will use and travel through the you to amend (add stuff to it like or-
Plant Hardiness Zone number
landscape. ganic matter) the soil when the plant
for your location will help you
has been chosen to fit the conditions.
Weed work In fact, some native plants don’t like
choose cold-hardy plants. (It’s
While you are observing your not a perfect system, but it
being fertilized – it can contribute to
property and making notes, deter- helps.) http://planthardiness.
lush, weak growth and sometimes
mine if there are any weed issues ars.usda.gov. Most locations in
encourage rot. They tend to like it on
present. If so, do your best to take the state fall in the USDA zones
the “mean and lean” side. However,
care of them BEFORE you create 3-5. You can also chat with folks
some soils such as extremely sandy
your new landscape. Tackling tough at your local extension office,
soils may benefit from the addition of
perennial weeds, such as Canada conservation district, and nurs-
organic matter to support a wider ar-
thistle, that have nestled themselves eries to find plants to suit your
ray of landscape plants.
between desired ornamental plants is site.
Soils also factor into how you wa-
significantly more difficult than those • Choose plants that will give you
ter. Watering deeply but infrequently
that are not amongst desired plants. something interesting (flowers,
is often suggested for water-wise
See our “Weeds, ways to whip'em” foliage, bark, fruit, etc.) dur-
plants. How you do this depends
section for more information. ing most parts of the year. A
on your soil type. In sandy soils, the
garden of mainly spring bulbs
Soil prep water tends to move straight down
looks great in spring and blah
Soils vary considerable around fairly rapidly. Therefore, applying just
the rest of the year. Consider
the state and sometimes within a enough water to wet the root zone
incorporating some plants that
small area. If you are looking to re- area is best, and it can be added
have winter appeal.
duce your workload and save water, fairly quickly. Sandy soils lose their
• If you are interested in a more
choosing plants suited to your soils is water quickly as well, so you may
cultivated form of “lawn,” con-
the best way to go. Read the “Soils” have to water more frequently. Clay
sider using more water-thrifty
section in this manual to get a good soils absorb water more slowly, and
grass species or varieties.
r u ra l l ivin g in wy o m in g 7

3. There are even varieties of blue- • Also for a naturalistic affect – if • Locate plants that need more
grass that have been developed planting trees or shrubs, try to water closer to your water
to thrive on less water. You can plant different ages of plants in source and/or home where you
find info to help you choose a each grouping, if you can find can best enjoy them.
grass variety by visiting barn- them to purchase. • Leave room for generous paths
yardsandbackyards.com and • Locate any lawns where you for people to move through
choosing “Resources” and will use them the most. Also, the landscape to various
“Lawns”. make sure they are located destinations.
• If you’re not sure a plant will be near water sources. Consider a
successful in your area, plant lawn shape that best suits your
Finding Plants for Your
one or two and see what hap- watering system, for maximum Garden
pens! Some experimentation watering efficiency. Also, make Choices for obtaining plants
will help you learn what best sure lawn boundaries make for your landscape depend on the
suits your conditions. mowing easy, if you plan to resources you have locally and your
• Look around your area and see mow. budget. Some communities have
what other folks are growing
successfully, and note where
they are growing them. In some
of our more exposed parts of
the state, what succeeds in
town is not always successful
outside of town in less pro-
tected locations. Learn from
the locals (reputable nurseries
and local garden clubs are good
resources, and try to chat with
the owners of landscapes you
truly admire and local Master
Gardeners).
Some general considerations
when deciding how to place
the plants:
• Group plants with similar water
and exposure needs together.
This allows you to care for
them most efficiently, and they
are more likely to grow well.
• If you are trying to produce a
more naturalistic, eye-appealing
effect, clump plants in odd-
numbered groups (3, 5, etc.),
and don’t plant them in straight
lines unless you’re trying to
achieve a very formal look. You
can create naturally curved
beds by laying a garden hose
down to mark the edge of the
new bed and then creating
gentle curves with it.
8 B A R N Y A R D S & B A C KYA R D S

4. good local nurseries/garden centers • Water. Water your plants regu- to stable landscaped areas
(sometimes seasonal) where you can larly until they are well estab- (trees and shrubs, etc.). If you
obtain good plants and advice; other lished (usually for the first year plan on changing things around
communities are not so fortunate. or so for perennials, longer for much you’ll eventually poke too
Scout out what your community has many trees and shrubs). Even many holes in the fabric, reduc-
to offer, and ask others where they plants that are water wise need ing its efficacy.
get their plants. In general, some to be watered regularly until • In the windier areas of our state
sources are: they are settled in. Watering on exposed locations, mulch
• Local and regional nurseries. during the winter can help becomes more problematic as
• Many conversation districts in some evergreen trees and the 70+ mph gusts can blow
Wyoming offer seedling (and, in shrubs survive. When you do your mulch toward Nebraska
some cases, larger) shrubs and water, water deeply to wet the or South Dakota, even picking
trees for conservation use. whole area the roots inhabit. up small pea gravel and pelting
• Mail/Internet-order sources (be When plants are established, it your house with it. It is said that
careful when utilizing sources is better to water infrequently those mulches that “knit-to-
far away from your area to but deeply than it is to water gether” such as shredded bark,
make sure that the plants of- frequently but shallowly, though etc., are best at resisting wind.
fered will be a good fit for your this is dependent on your soils Also, having established plants
site and will arrive in good as mentioned previously. that crawl along the ground or
condition). • Weed. Be on the watch for creating windbreaks can help
• Friends with gardens (one ca- weeds of all kinds. In general, to keep mulch in place. Your
veat – if possible, ask to see the quicker you take care of best bet is to experiment with
the plant in the garden, ID it, weeds, the less problematic mulches to determine if any will
and ask how much it spreads – they are especially for the first work in the various microcli-
many a plant that turns out to couple of years. Be vigilant. If mates on your property (visiting
be a “weed” has come from an you choose to use an herbicide with area homeowners who
unsuspecting friend). follow the label directions and have tried different mulches
• Grow plants from seed. More be careful in their application as can be helpful).
and more native plants are be- many herbicides can kill flow-
ing offered by the horticultural ers, shrubs, and trees, in addi-
For the Windier Locations:
Wind can be a challenge! Take
industry; however, for certain tion to weeds.
the time to read our section on wind-
species you’ll still have to grow • Mulch. In many areas of our
breaks. This will help you decide if
them yourself. This can be a less state, mulch can be very ben-
you’d like to plant one on your place,
expensive way to stock a land- eficial in keeping moisture from
if you have the space. Established
scape with flowering perennials, evaporating from the soil, sup-
windbreaks make a big difference
but it takes some practice/learn- pressing weeds, and moderat-
on many properties, but they can be
ing if you haven’t grown plants ing soil temperatures during all
slow to grow in some areas. Consider
from seed before. Many native times of the year. What type of
the wind-breaking aspects of exist-
plants produce seeds that need mulch you use depends on your
ing buildings, and take advantage of
a period of moist cold (outside personal preferences, but they
them. Consider the short-term use of
or in your refrigerator) before all need maintenance. Organic
artificial windbreaks (snow fencing,
they’ll germinate. mulches (bark, wood chips, etc.)
hay bales, other handy items) to help
all eventually break down and
Maintenance will need to be “topped up” with
get your plants established. However,
All landscapes that look good in addition to thinking about how they
more mulch. Our wind eventu-
require some kind of maintenance. will change wind patterns, also con-
ally blows dirt and weed seed
Choosing plants adapted to your con- sider how they will affect where and
into rock mulches so you’ll need
ditions and that aren’t overly aggres- how snow drifts form.
to maintain those as well. Weed
sive (aka “weedy”) will reduce the In the end, remember that “shel-
barrier fabrics can be used as
amount of maintenance needed. ter begets shelter” as one smart lady
well but are probably best suited
r u ra l l ivin g in wy o m in g 9

5. once told me. A building’s shelter
helps a shrub grow, the shrub helps
a flower grow, etc., etc. It can be a
long process, but if you plan to call
Some water-wise plants to consider for
your property home for some time to
come it’s probably worth the effort.
Wildlife
In many locations, wildlife creates
challenges for landscapes. The chal-
lenges vary depending on the type
of wildlife that is the issue. There are
some ornamental plants that you can
plant that are less likely to be eaten Wild Four O’ Clock Lambs Ear
by wildlife; however, if the wildlife Mirabilis multiflora Stachys byzantina
are hungry enough all bets are off. Native plant Height: 8-18”
Visit barnyardsandbackyards.com Height: 1-3’ Width: 12-24” (or much wider)
for lists of these plants and for other Width: 2-4’
Foliage plant.‘ Silver Carpet’ is a ground
information on dealing with wildlife. Very long lived. Has large taproot, will cover and ‘Helen Von Stein’ has larger
Vegetable gardens planted in areas likely die if you try to move it (if you injure leaves than the generic type. Both variet-
it’s taproot) so plant it where you want it ies flower very little so they don’t reseed
with significant wildlife will probably and then leave it be. as much as the common variety.
have to be fenced. See the “Wildlife”
section of this guide for more infor-
mation on fencing and wildlife issues.
Above all, keep your cool, be adapt-
able, protect what you most value,
accept some losses, and remember
that the wildlife were probably there
before you were.
Resources
There are a lot of resources avail-
able to help with landscaping efforts Rocky Mountain Penstemon Small-Leaf Pussytoes
in our often challenging climate. Penstemon strictus Antennaria parvifolia
Many of these can be found at barn- Native plant Native plant
yardsandbackyards.com (including Height: 18-24” Height: 1-2” (foliage)
resources on a variety of other topics Width: 12-18” Width: 8-12”
including vegetable gardening, ex- Easy to grow; can get powdery mildew Native plant common in our region;
tending the gardening season, irriga- on the leaves though doesn’t seem to slowly spreading groundcover; about 6”
tion, and more) hurt the plant much. Short-lived perennial tall in flower. ‘McClintock’ is a variety in
(up to 4 years or so). Can reseed a lot so cultivation.
dead-head if reseeding is not wanted.
Jennifer Thompson is the Small
Acreage Outreach coordinator.
‘Moonshine’ Yarrow
Achillea
Height: 24”
Width: 18-24”
Some yarrows spread around a lot. This
yarrow is more self-contained and forms a
clump. Has nice lemony yellow flowers and
silvery green foliage.
10 B A R N Y A R D S & B A C KYA R D S

6. your landscape (see “Windbreaks” section for tree suggestions)
Prairie Coneflower Sulfur Buckwheat Large Beardtongue Iris
Ratibida columnifera Eriogonum umbellatum Penstemon grandiflorus Height: varies (dwarf, intermedi-
ate and tall iris)
Native plant Native plant Native Plant
Width: varies
Height: 18-24” Height: 6-12” Height: 2-3’
Width: 18-24” Width: 8-12” Width: 8-12” Great water-wise plant.Plant dif-
ferent types (dwarf, intermediate,
Long bloom period; short lived Long season of interest. Large showy blooms. Short and tall iris) to spread out bloom
(1-2 years) but reseeds moder- Flowers turn a rusty orange blooming period (two weeks season. Divide every 3-5 years to
ately. There are burnt orange color as they age. or so). Short-lived but reseeds maintain flowering. Variegated
and yellow colored flowered moderately. variety provides interest when
strains available. not in bloom.
Blue Wooly Veronica Catmint
Veronica pectinata Nepeta
Gayfeather Height: 1-2” Height: 15-18”
Width: 12-18” (or wider) Width: 2-3’
Liatris punctata
Native plant Early summer blooms; good groundcover in Long bloom time. Resistant to many kinds
many sites. If the winter is dry (lack of snow of wildlife. Choose only those varieties that
Height: 12-18”
cover) may get winter burned. are “sterile” (don’t produce viable seed) and
Width: 6-12”
"vegetatively propagated" or can become a
Slow grower. Drought tolerant. pest by reseeding.
r u ra l l ivin g in wy o m in g 11