Everything Wine Magazine Issue 3

the lifestyle surrounding the glass

Walking the
Camino
A Pilgrim's Journey
Across Spain

Taleggio
Dragonfly Hill
Vineyards
ISSUE #3
Jul-Aug 2009

J u l /au g 2 0 0 9 EvErything WinE MagazinE issuE 3 J u l /au g 2 0 0 9 EvErything WinE MagazinE issuE 3

2
Contents Decanting 3

A walk in the market
Editor
Jason Sych
i'vE only bEEn to Spain the produce, past the fish
Assistant Editors once, and most of the counters displaying more
Jasmine O'Brien finned and tentacled things
time I don't even admit to
Contributing Writers it. My reluctance to admit than I knew existed, were
Guy Dalcourt to spending time in Spain is the food stalls, serving ev-
A Pilgrim's Glass Dave Ramsden because for the three days erything from papas gadita-
nas (small potatoes with saf-
Everything Wine's own Guy Gina Savard I was on Spanish soil, I never
fron and pine nuts) to olleta
Dalcourt journeys across the Jason Sych left the centre of Barcelona.
Of course, there was a rea- de cordero (lamb braised
North of Spain to explore the
Camino de Santiago, as well
Contributing Photographer son... with cured ham in red wine).
When I travel, I spend a Some stalls offered a coun-
as the wines along the way. Adelio Trinidad ter to sit and eat at, while
www.adeliotrinidad.com great deal of time learning

p.8 about how a culture views
food and wine. Understand
a culture's table, and you're
The vegetable stalls at the entrance to the
Boqueria.
at others you just took your
cordero away on a heavy
paper plate to eat while
a good way along in understanding that culture. Mar- leaning against a wall in the sunshine.
Everything Wine kets can't be beat for learning about how people relate My time at the Boqueria gave me a great snapshot of
Taleggio #131-2401 Millstream Road,
to their food, and in Barcelona is the stunning Boqueria, the Catalan food culture. But to truly get an idea of any
Langford, BC V9B 3R5 a veritable food and wine heaven. The market itself is culture takes time, which is why the idea of a pilgrimage,
The supreme cheese of
(250) 474-3959 the size of a train station, and sells every manner of pro- such as the one featured in this issue, is so appealing.
Northern Italy, Taleggio is duce, meat, fish, wine, charcuterie, and cheese under its Walking through a country gives the time to breathe in
stinkiness lurking behind a 998 Marine Drive gigantic roof. Walking in was like walking into a Blueray that culture slowly; it allows time for not just one plate of
mild persona. North Vancouver, BC V7P3C4 movie--everything seemed almost too vivid, too real, to cordero, but many plates, each slightly different, giving

p.23 (604) 929-7277

www.everythingwine.ca
be real. a broader picture of what cordero, and the culture that
At the front were the produce stands, full of so much made it, is all about. Understand the cordero, and you'll
fresh, local everything that any chef would ovulate just understand the culture.
entering the market. But at the rear of the market, past ~Jason sych

Dragonfly Hill
From grape growing to vinify-
ing--one of Vancouver Island's
Questions or comments
for Everything Wine
Click here to Search
magazine?
own garragistes shares her
views on wine, and what is im-
portant to her vineyards.
Please forward any
correspondence to
over 3000 wines online
p.24 jsych@everythingwine.ca
at www.everythingwine.ca

J u l /au g 2 0 0 9 EvErything WinE MagazinE issuE 3

Words
4

A caseophile shares his
passion
lost
Max MccalMan, the maître fromager at last seen in my
the restaurants Picholine and Artisanal in
New York, is an expert on cheese. He lives,
wine cellar on
breathes, and eats it in vast quantities; he has May 15, 2009,
even coined the term "caseophile" to express
how a love for cheese can be as envelop-
shortly before
ing as a love for wine. In The Cheese Plate, my son's May
McCalman has put his experience, knowl-
edge, and passion for cheese into a book
long weekend
any cheese lover will identify with. party.
He begins with the basics of cheese: its his-
tory, how it is made, the major families of
cheese, and what it is that makes cheese so... If you've seen
cheesy. He continues with a guide on how
to properly taste cheeses, how to recognize
this bottle,
if cheeses are ripe or past their prime; how or know its
to pair wine with cheese; as well as giving
a guide to some of the best cheeses in the
whereabouts,
world. Informative, insightful, and entertain- please call
ing, this book is truly created for those who
share McCalman's passion for cheese.
555-8247
"Many of the best cheeses in the
immediately.
world smell like something you'd
rather not have in your house;
they taste strong and spoil quickly...They make us turn up our noses, crinkle our eyebrows,
clack our gums, pucker our cheeks, reach for a glass of...something--anything. Some
of them launch a sneak attack: they tiptoe across our tongues, then explode at the back
of our mouths with a tangy wallop. Others mount a full frontal assault, then melt sub-
limely away toward the back. In the end, the great ones always titillate our taste buds."
The photographs titillate as well; they almost constitute "cheese porn". In short...if you or someone you
Luckily, we have more.
know loves cheese, this book is a must-have...in fact, its almost as enjoyable as spoiled milk.
Because we truly are
~Jason sych
Jason sych, along with running the Vintage Room at the Vic-
toria Millstream Everything Wine store also considers himself The Cheese Plate....................................$46.99
a caseophile...so much so that when he first came across that
word, he didn't even have to look it up.


Ford Motor Cars has 41 Vintages.
Accompaniments 7

We have roughly 684.
in thE WinE World it is normal to describe a wine’s balance and
finish, to pay attention to the region in which the fruit
was grown, and to describe the nuances
And ours are drinkable. of taste and scent within the wine; not
often do you do that when describing
a chocolate bar. But Thomas Haas choc-
olates are not your run-of-the-mill choco-
late bars. A fourth-generation pastry chef
from Germany, Haas has won numerous
worldwide accolades for his pastries, choco-
lates, and desserts. In 2000, he and his wife
started their own business in Vancouver, with
the goal to create the best chocolates from the
finest raw ingredients. All the recipes are hand
crafted--no assembly lines or mass production--and
do not use any preservatives or artificial flavours.
The bars were created with the focus on cocoa: its
origin, purity, and nuances of flavour. The beans for
the chocolate are blended in the specific percentages
needed to achieve the desired finish. The 37 (each num-
ber refers to the percentage of cocoa) is milk chocolate
yumminess (there's no other way to describe it); creamy with
a nutty undertone, and a truly smooth finish. The 67 (my fa-
vourite) is a dark chocolate bar made from criollo and trinitar-
io beans (two highly prized varietals of cocoa); robust and full
bodied, it carries hints of mango and banana on the nose. It's
a true delight on its own, or with a glass of Amarone. Of course,
so is the 83, a dark chocolate filled with bold flavours of concen-
trated fruit liquor and a dusty earthiness. Regardless of your choice,
you won't go wrong with these fine chocolates. ~gina savard
Gina Savard is the Events Coordinator at the Millstream Everything Wine
store, and has a secret love triangle--herself, chocolate, and Amarone.

Come in and check out our Vintages room. Thomas Haas Chocolates..............................................$4.99

A Pilgrim's Glass
thE caMino dE santiago runs 780 kilo-
metres across northern Spain, winding
its way through the wine and cuisine
of countless towns, villages, and cities
before reaching the Atlantic Ocean
at Finisterre. Everything Wine's own
Guy Dalcourt tied on his hiking boots,
grabbed his pack, and headed down
the road where the Camino passes
though the wine regions of Ribera del
Duero, Bierzo, and Galicia, experi-
encing not only the culture of the pil-
grim trail, but the culture of the wines,
food, and people along the way.

by guy dalcourt
PhotograPhs by guy dalcourt
&
barry byErs


10 11
W hy thE caMino?
Vega Sicilia
In 2001, when I turned 60, Put ting Ribera del Duero
my inner voice kept asking, “ on the Map
What next? If you look into the
Vega Sicilia is undoubtedly one of the greatest wines of
future what do you see?” I saw
Spain. A combination of exceptional artistry, marketing, and
blurry visions of a sedentary old
rarity, the wines of Vega Sicilia are among the most sought-
age, arthritic life on a sofa, and
after of the Ribera del Duero. Extremely low yields, late
I thought that there had to be a
harvesting, and rigorous cellaring, ageing, and bottling prac-
different path for me; hence the
tices all help to create the legend surrounding this wine. The
walk along the Camino, a pil-
1994 vintage of Vega Sicilia had to be recalled, due to a
grim road that [ would take me
massive problem of cork taint. Since then, the wine makers at
through three great wine regions
Vega have become obsessive about avoiding taint from any
of Spain], and ends at Santiago
source--even ensuring that the steel bands around the
de Compostela, on the Atlantic
ageing barrels, the barrel wedges, and the barrel
coast.
palettes are all stainless steel. The Unico Gran
I had, for quite some time, con-
Reserva is aged a minimum of 10 years be-
templated walking the Camino
fore release, and is the hallmark of the
de Santiago in Northern Spain.
Vega Sicilia brand. Riedel even pro-
Santiago, or St-James, is said to
duced a glass created especially
have visited Galicia: after being
for Vega Sicilia in 1995.
beheaded, his friends managed
to sneak his body from Palestine,
vEga sicilia unico
and took it to Northern Spain,
gran rEsErva
or so the legend says. He was
1995
buried in Compostela, where he
$431.99
lay virtually forgotten for centu-
ries. However, in the 9th century,
the church seized on the idea of
a pilgrimage to his tomb, to help
Santiago de Compostela
S S Carrión de los Condes
O Cebreiro S SBurgos PrEcEEding PagEs: A view towards
Santiago de Compostela from the
ruins of an old villa.

abovE lEft: The stunted-looking
AMadrid Tempranillo vines of the Ribera del
Duero.


13
prevent the people of northern looked onto the gothic Cathedral
Spain from falling back on their
pagan ways. The pilgrimage was
of Burgos--it was in the cathedral’s
sacristy I had my pilgrim passport
Gazpacho
a resounding success, and it is es- stamped to witness my point of 1 kg ripe tomatoes, de-seed-
timated that upwards of 500,000 departure on the pilgrim trail. The ed and skinned
people walked the Camino in a custom is that everywhere a pil-  baguette, crust removed
span of 200 years. Today, there grim stops along the way, be it a 2 cloves garlic
has been a revival of the camino restaurant, an albergue, or a cafe, 1 tbsp sherry vinegar
walk, with close to 100,000 peo- they have their passport stamped  cup extra virgin olive oil
ple making the trek each year. to verify their pilgrimage. The fol- sugar
In 1982 the Pope paid a visit to lowing morning my trek would salt
Santiago de Compostela, and by start...but that night I enjoyed the pepper
1993 UNESCO had added it to wine, food, and atmosphere of green onoin tops
its World Heritage Site list. Burgos.
1. Crush garlic with a mortar
i bEgan My trEk in suitable fashion: duE south of my starting point and pestle, then combine with
In the Barrio Antico, or historical lies the fastest developing wine re- the tomatoes, diced bread,
centre, of Burgos, at a restaurant gion of Spain, and the first region sherry vinegar, and olive oil in
named Rincon de Espana. I was I would walk through. The Ribera a food processor, and blend
having my last “civilized” dinner, a del Duero is Spain’s premier wine until very smooth, about 1
meal that began with a cool gaz- region, producing such famous minutes.
pacho, followed by white aspara- wines as Vega Sicilia, Pesquera, 2. Taste, then adjust seasoning
gus covered in a warm béchamel and Pingus. It averages about with the salt, sugar, and pep-
sauce, followed by bacalao a la 1000 metres above sea level, and per. Chill in fridge for at least
Viscania, a traditional dish of cod the summer temperature reaches an hour before serving.
with julienned steamed vegeta- extremes, with very hot days (up 3. Garnish with sliced green
bles. Burgos lies in the region of to 42 degrees), and cool nights. onion tops.
Castilla y León, whose wine fame This provides the vines the po-
is usually associated with inexpen- tential to create wines with great tion began in 1076. It has recently
sive reds; however, this region structure and longevity. been converted to an hotel with
also produces crisp, clean whites After a few days of walking through a 2-star restaurant that features
and wonderful rosés. Naturally, I the blistering heat of the Ribera wines primarily from the Ribera del
tried a wine I’d never had before, del Duero, I decided to have an- Duero. I arrived at Carrion de los
a bottle of a wonderful Rosado Pe- other last “civilized” dinner. Car- Condes at night, walking straight
nascal, a rosé that was vibrant, re- rion de los Condes is a small town to the albergue (translation: a hos-
freshing, and crisp. The pilgrimage about 75 kilometers west of Bur- tel for pilgrims that sleeps at least
is a journey of discovery, after all. gos, and it has where I arrived at 10 to a room, with lots of snoring
“Let discovery be a key strategy night has an old Benedictine mon- guaranteed) for a cold shower,
for life,” I thought. From my table, I astery, San Zoilo, whose construc- and a fresh t-shirt. Suitably clean,


14
I walked back through the streets
of los Condes to San Zoilo for din-
ner. I started with ensalada de
arrúgula y langostinas, or a salad
of arugula with langoustines. The
wine list went on and on, and I
distinctly remember selecting a
bottle of Pesquera Crianza, which
was outstanding. To this day I actu-
ally cannot recall what I had for my
main course that evening—which I
blame directly on the wine.
Most meals, however, were not
like this dinner. Usually a bunch of
peregrinos would either eat at
the albergue if there was a kitch-
en, or go to the village restaurant
where a menu for pilgrims ranged
from 4 to 7 euros, often including
a small pitcher of wine. The wine
consumed at these pilgrim dinners
was simply the local wine, no De-
Ensalada de Arrúgula y Langostinas nominacion de Origen, no fancy
pedigree--most times they usually
Arugula Salad with Langoustines came from a plastic drum under
If arugula is out of season, this salad can be made by substituting mus- the counter—and no label. Most
tard greens and baby lettuce for the arugula. times they were very palatable as
well, simple and without preten-
3 langoustines per person sherry vinegar
sion. In other words, perfect for a
1 lemon olive oil pilgrimage, and perfect for shar-
1 cups white wine arugula (or other greens) ing with others who are doing the
lemon juice chopped almonds same, because a great plus on the
Combine the lemon and white wine in a pot large enough to hold the Camino is the opportunity to meet
langouostines, then fill the pot  full with water. Bring to a boil, then people from all over the world.
poach the langoustines until cooked, about two minutes. Remove from One evening I had dinner with
the water and place on a plate to cool slightly. Toss the arugula with three other travelers: an Austra-
the chopped almonds, place on a salad plate, and sprinkle with the lian, a Malaysian, and a Belgian.
oil and vinegar. Arrange the langoustines on top of the arugula, and I rounded out the group, and kept
enjoy. referring to that evening as The


16 17
Four Continent Dinner. Our small cal straw roofs, built by Celts in the
pitchers of wine quickly became Middle Ages. O Cebreiro also has
multiples thereof, as we listened to the only pre-Romanesque church
hilarious stories about the Belgian fully intact on the Camino route, as
Navy (the total fleet, according well as a lodging house for pilgrims
to our expert in residence, is quite that has been in operation since
consistent—it has had in service, the ninth century. However, getting
on average, somewhere between there is considered the most difficult
one submarine and none over the ascent on the entire Camino. But it
last 60 years). is worth the difficult climb, because
when you get to the top and des-
during thE night in los Condes, perately need a refreshing drink,
however, despite the wonderful you then realize the village is right
wine, I experienced anxiety at- in the middle of Bierzo, a somewhat
tacks. Was I going to make it to lesser-known wine region. Lesser-
Compostela, was I giving it my known, but wonderful; Bierzo wines
all? The Camino, as a pilgrimage, give many a cause to celebrate.
is truly a challenging experience, Bierzo is in the northwest corner
both physically and spiritually. That of Castilla y Leon, and is half way
night I dreamt that my left foot had between the dry heat of Ribera del
three large blisters. The dream Duero and the humidity of Gali-
was so vivid that the next morning cia. The most dominant red grapes
I began walking with a limp. grown are Mencia and Alicante,
The terrain began to get quite and the white grape of choice is
hilly the closer I neared Galicia, Palomino. The reds make fragrant
although noticeably more lush and and fruity wines that tend to age
green than the Ribera del Duero. well in oak. They also lean more to-
And since the Camino is the same wards the rustic style of traditional
pilgrim trail that has existed for Spanish wines, but are smooth and
over 1000 years, it tends to follow usually not more than 12% alcohol.
the topography of the land—in These are very good, affordable
other words, there is no highway wines that are unfortunately not
cutting through the mountains here, very well known in Canada.
or bridges spanning the valleys.
O Cebreiro is a lost village that thE rEstaurant in o cErbrEio was
sits around 1,300 metres up the serving the region’s wine but only
side of a mountain. It is noteworthy joven, meaning a young wine made
because it has a collection of pal- for immediate consumption. The jo-
lozas, oval stone houses with coni- ven wines have not been oaked,


18
making them light and refresh-
ing, and not too acidic. Another
reason O Cebreiro is worth the
ascent is for the view. This is the
When you go...
boundary between Castilla y Leon Walking the Camino--some things to know
and Galicia, and the views from
O Cebreio are breathtaking—the
dusty ruggedness of Castilla y Walking the Camino is more than just a long walk across
Leon one way, and the lusher val- Spain; it has been a spiritual quest, as much as a physical test,
for centuries. The modern pilgrim trail traditionally begins in
leys of Galicia in the other.
So now, with a glass of joven in St. Jean Pied-de-Port, in the foothills of the Pyrenees just inside
the French border. From there pilgrims cross the mountains into
Ordering
my hand as I await dinner, I stand
at the border of Galicia. Tomor- Spain. The journey across Spain takes around six to eight weeks
to complete, and by the time a pilgrim reaches Santiago, they
wine online
row I will set foot in it. I have now
walked approximately 350 kilome-
tres from Burgos, through both the
will have travelled over 780 kilometers.
To qualify for the Compostellana, the certificate which
is as simple as
Ribera del Duero, and into Bierzo.
I am ahead of schedule to meet
states a pilgrim has indeed traveled the Camino de Santiago
(and thereby recieves a certain amount of time off purgatory), hitting a few keys.
my wife, who is flying to Santiago a pilgrim must travel by foot, horseback, or bicycle, and must
to meet me, where we will spend
time, exploring Galicia together.
travel at least 100km if walking, or 200km if traveling by horse
or bicycle. As a pilgrim, the traveler is entitled, with the help Go to
www.everythingwine.ca
Next issue I will continue the Cami- of a 'pilgrim passport', to stay for free (or very cheaply) in the
no, telling more of Bierzo and the refugios operated by towns, churches and monestaries all along
the Camino. Although the refugios are very basic and, at times,
wine and food of Galicia. But for
now, I will rest, look out over Gali- are nothing more than a place to put your sleeping bag, quite and have wine delivered right
often they also include a home cooked meal for a very reason-
cia, and enjoy my simple joven.
~guy dalcourt able fee.
The Camino is traveled by all manner of people--young
to your home.
Guy Dalcourt is a Sales Associate and old, fit and unfit, religious and not-so-much. Interestingly, the
at the North Vancouver Every- pilgrims that seem to have the most trouble finishing the route
thing Wine store. His favoourite
Spanish wine is...well, all of them.
are the young ones, presumably because they try to finish the
Camino too quickly. The key to the Camino is to slow down,
Try it...you may never leave the house
and take it at a pace that allows you to experience the journey.
And that very much includes the wine and food of the regions to buy wine again.
Previous page: The palozas traveled through, as well as the scenery and history. Because
of O Cebreiro, overlooking as with any journey, the true enjoyment, and learning, is in the
the valley towards Santiago traveling.
de Compostela.


20
Ribera del Duero & Bierzo our wine associates can help
you decipher the world of wine
Celeste 2005 Dominio de Atauta 2004 better than this can.
Crianza Tempranillo Tempranillo
Liquorice, black pepper, Traditional style, with ex-
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and solid fruit. Full bodied tannins make this wine
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$27.99 $64.99

Gormez 2007 Aalto 2004 Crianza
Tempranillo Tempranillo
Earthy, spicy, with miner- Ripe black fruit, floral notes,
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with light tannins and a ceptional: powerful, lay- Mainly because
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Luna Beberide 2006
Atalayas 2004 Mencia
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inky, dusty dark berries, Tempranillo and smoked herbs. Light
cracked pepper, and vio- An exceptional, highly coffee on the nose, with
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Legaris 2003 Crianza Pittacum 2004
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Smooth, dark and rich. yet complex flavour that Blackberry, raspberry, li-
Black plums, blackber- is firm and powerful. Is quorice and subtle oak. And we truly
ries, tobacco, coffee and drinking well now, but will Smoked herbs and spic- love
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nins lead into a long finish the next 5 years. Sweet tannins and an ex-
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Taleggio 23

The Perfection of Stink
subliME, softly PErfuMEd, regal, and carrying an indomitable
Cheese at a Glance character--like a cheese version of Audrey Hepburn--Taleggio has
somehow been able to maintain a measure of secrecy in its ex-
Pronunciation istence; it is truly one of the undiscovered secrets of the cheese
Tah-LEdge-io counter. Ranging from tangy to buttery in flavour, true Taleggio is
made from the unpasteurized milk of the Valtellina cow of Lombar-
arEa of origin dia, which gives it a resulting depth and complexity of flavour that
Lombardia, Italy surpasses that of cheeses made from the milk of other breeds. It
stylE of chEEsE
is still traditionally aged in underground caves, and gets washed
Washed Rind Cow's Milk weekly with a brine while maturing to develop a beneficial mold
that is gently pressed back into the cheese surface, creating much
flavour ProfilE of the pungency this cheese is noted for.
Rich, buttery, tangy Taleggio is a wonderful cheese for eating on its own; however
and beefy; a mild palate it also pairs beautifully with arugula, olives, polenta, and crusty, rus-
despite its nose, which is tic bread. Another skill of Taleggio is its ability to melt; perfect for
reminiscent of a neglected an ingredient in risotto,
gym sock. The cheese itself or to top a pizza, Taleg-
looks soft, delicate, and invit- gio often finds its way
ing yet this exterior hides a into the regional dishes
stinkiness most people find of Lombardia--and for
surprising given the look of good reason.
the cheese. ~Jason Sych

WinE Pairing suggEstions

riEsling sPätlEsE
barbEra d'asti
dolcEtto

Right: It is innocent enough to
look at, but the pungent scent
of Taleggio can be surprising..

Dragonfly Hill
Vineyard

Almost hidden away along the gentle
hills of Saanich, a grape grower is creat-
ing wines of distinction and character-
-and shows how the essence of a wine
lives within the vineyard.
by Jason sych
Photos by adElio trinidad


26 27
A bout 16 kiloMEtrEs outside grape grower, met me outside the “We’ve been growing grapes rent”. Both are red grapes, and though it is spelled “libel”, it is
Victoria, just off of rolling, winding door to her “wine facility” (a small for sixteen years,” she says, lead- both are suited for cooler-climate pronounced the same). Some- Previous Pages: Carol Wallace
Old West Saanich Road, lies a se- out building next to her house that ing the way towards a group vineyards. These early-ripening times, things are just meant to be. explains how grapevines need to be
trained in the vineyard.
ries of ponds that ring the bottom serves as both tank room, bottling of potted baby vines, all stand- grapes hold great promise for
of a property. The ponds look like room, case storage site, and tast- ing like a platoon of kindergart- the climate of Vancouver Is- sErEndiPity asidE, the vines that Below Left: Carol in her tank room,
your average ponds—covered ing room), on the dusty driveway ners before the teacher. “I’ve land, and Carol will be tending are closest to Carol are undoubt- enjoying a sample of her Cabernet
with lily pads, trees that overhang that lead down to those dragonfly sold grapes to Glenterra up in the new grapevines to see how edly her white grape vines: the Sauvignon from the 2007 harvest.
and hide the watery edges, and ponds. Seemingly ever relaxed, Cobble Hill, they bought my first they perform in the vineyards at Ortega and Auxerrois that she
a cacophony of singing frogs at Carol doesn’t quite fit the image crop., then Chalet Estate for sev- Dragonfly Hill, a job she seems grows on a gently sloping hill Below: The ground cloth used to
minimize weeds along the rows of
dusk—but these particular ponds of the sort of person everyone eral years, and then Salt Spring to be looking forward to. And above the ponds. With these
vines.
also have a secret life. They are imagines a wine maker to be. But Vineyards. And then in 2005 we the vines themselves seem to be grapes she creates Dragonfly
the breeding ground for innumer- then, she never really does refer started making our own wine.” destined to succeed here; as it Hill’s signature wine, a dry, per- Following Pages: The young vines
able dragonflies that come forth to herself as a wine maker. She’s The platoon of grapevines are was pointed out to Carol by a fumed blend that combines Or- of La Belle and St. Laurent await pa-
each year to fly silently on their a grape grower, through and a hybrid called “La Belle”, and close friend, the name La Belle tega’s fruit with the floral notes of tiently to be planted in the vineyard.
four wings, capturing the atten- through, and happily admits it. another varietal named “St. Lau- means “dragonfly” in Dutch (al- the Auxerrois. The two varietals
tion of those they pass with their
distinctive shape and metallic
colouring. They go to feast on
whatever bugs it is that drag-
onflies feast on (I know mosqui-
toes are on the dragonfly menu,
which is fantastic as far as I am
concerned), and in so doing cre-
ate a better life for us; less pests
to make us itch, plus the child-like
enjoyment of seeing a dragonfly
whizz past, hover, and then dart
away. It was these dragonflies
that Carol Wallace thought of
when she needed a name for
her wine estate, situated at the
top of the hill overlooking the
ponds. They are a great symbol
for both Carol and the wines of
Dragonfly Hill Vineyard—bright,
colourful, energetic, and dynamic.

carol, thE oWnEr and opera-
tor of the vineyard, is a down-to-
earth, laid-back, self-proclaimed

M ay/J u n 2 0 0 9 EvErything WinE MagazinE issuE 2

28


Ortega/Auxerrois
30 NV 31
are very different on the palate, This is where Carol’s experience all the little creatures to go when The signature blend
yet the blend works well. Even as a grape grower comes into there’s something going on, like for Dragonfly Hill,
in the vineyard, the vines them- play, giving her the knowledge spraying. There’s snakes in here, with hints of citrus
selves are diverse, as distinct visu- necessary to coax the most from spiders, beneficial types of crit- and honeysuckle.
Crisp, smooth, with
ally as they are in taste, even to her vines. She places an emphasis ters...this is their little hiding space.”
a finish of green
the untrained eye. The Ortega on utilizing organic and sustainable And speaking of critters, we apples. $21.99
seems to grow haphazardly, tufts practices in the vineyard to ensure must not forget Carol's sheep.
of leaves and shoots erupting er- that it not only continues to grow “At this time of year they can’t
ratically, whereas the Auxerrois each year, but acts as a wellspring come in the vineyard...as soon Chardonnay 2007
seems neat, regimented and or- of nutrients that nourishes the land as we harvest, we open the
ganized in comparison. Pointing as it grows, rather than depleting gate and they come in all winter A subtle Char-
to the Ortega, Carol muses, “Well, it. Black ground cloth runs be- long. And they’re really happy... donnay with just a
these are Italian. And these,” she neath each row of vines, effective- all the grass is really nice, all the hint of buttery oak.
Ripe stone and
says, pointing to the Auxerrois, “Are ly eliminating the need for weed grapes that have fallen...they
exotic fruit share
French. Macho...gay. These [the killers and chemicals, as well as have a hey-day, and they fertil- place with pleasant
Ortega] get a lot of growth, a lot tractor-driven weeding equipment. ize. They fertilize all winter long.” florals on the nose
of fruit, the stalks are really heavy... So all the thinning, the removal of and palate. $18.99
it’s just so muscular. And with the shoots, and nixing the few weeds if thE ortEga-auxErrois is the
Auxerrois...they just grow straight that do manage to grow through wine closest to Carol’s heart,
up. They’re all nicely spaced, the ground cloth is done by hand. her Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot/Cabernet
the shoots, the fruit...if I didn’t do And each grassy row between the blend must be closest to her soul. Sauvignon 2006
anything to them, they’d be fine.” vines has a unique feature—a punk Rich, harmonious, and unpreten-
A stunning blend,
Of course, a lot does have to rock haircut. Grasses and native tious, Carol's red blend demon- harmonizing the fruit
be done to the vines, even ones plants are allowed to grow in a strates how her patience as a are ready to go out into the world, sharp and unorganized to taste, of Merlot and the
as organized as Auxxerois. Grape centre strip down each row, act- grape grower influences her wine, even if it means she must sit on a but without doubt showing the po- structure of Cab-
vines, as prolific as they are, need ing as a catch for the grass that creating a dynamic, round and fla- vintage while it works through its tential of becoming as full and fla- ernet; full of plums,
to be trained and tended to en- does get cut, where it can natu- vourful wine. I mention patience growing pains. This means that her vourful as the 2006. And this is cassis, and cedar
wines, upon release, are ready to quite an achievement for someone wood. $28.99
sure the quality of the fruit is high rally break down and re-fertilize because Carol will not release
enough to make a brilliant wine. the ground. “And, it’s a place for her wines before she thinks they be enjoyed. The 2006 Merlot- who admits to having little practi-
Cabernet spent a full year in bar- cal experience with wine making. Bumbleberry 2007
rel and another year in stainless “I didn’t become a winery own-

Click here to Search steel tanks, before being blended
and bottled. Its nose is rich with
black fruits, plums and berries, with
er because I’m a wine snob...I be-
came a winery owner because I’m
a grape grower, and it was a step,”
Over 9 differ-
ent fruits went into
the blend to cre-
ate a light, sweet-

over 3000 wines online pleasant oak, mocha, and fine
tannins rounding out the palate.
The 2007, still sorting itself out in
Carol says, somewhat thoughtful.
“A step into the unknown, really.”
Jason Sych is the Editor and writes for
Everything Wine Magazine. He also
yet-tart wine that
pairs well with any
chocolate dessert
you could think of.
stainless steel tanks, has the same
at www.everythingwine.ca hallmarks of the 2006—still a bit
manages to taste wine every now and
then--but just so he can write about it.


32
On the Road...
Cantina Tours in Tuscany, Continued
by Dave Ramsden

Last issue, Dave Ramsden gave for the evening meal, we visited a
us a taste of the Cinque Stelle wine couple of other places down the
tour in Tuscany; this issue Dave valley for more wine and socializ-
takes us further up the mountain, ing. They all served brilliant wine,
to where the other half of the tour but none had the character of the
awaits. first two. And after we visited those
few places...we visited a few more.
aftEr thE cinquE stEllE, we Such were the days we spent
drove further up the mountain, hit- before Christmas in Italy. The house
ting snow two-thirds of the way to we were staying at, in Pontremoli,
our destination. We remained un- was right in front of the cathedral.
daunted. At the top of the pass sat And on Christmas Eve, while ev-
a chalet, our next stop on the tour. eryone is getting ready for mid-
As it was shortly before Christmas, night mass and dinner afterwards,
and there was to be a large feast the men headed out around seven
that evening, we naturally ordered in the evening for the bar a few
the meal-of-the-day at the chalet. doors down from the church. Not
This consisted of bread, chunks of even on Christmas Eve could the
Parmigiano, tiny marinated porcini, cantina tours be forgotten.
The start of the post-cantina tour feast. So picture a large room with a
genuine Parma prosciutto, and of
course, a beautiful dry white wine. vaulted stone ceiling, a giant fire
The Parma ham is pink and melts in your mouth, awesomely blazing in the wooden stove at one end, suffusing an inde-
delicious, and nothing like I’d ever had before. The second scribable warmth over everything. Imagine long wooden
course is, naturally, more wine, along with a wonderful torte tables of fifteen or more men and women laughing and
baked from hazelnut flour, which is ground from the nuts of sipping white and red wine from small tumblers while free
the trees which grow in profusion in the area. food, homemade salami, prosciutto, and bread is brought
Many Italians still make their own wine, and often have out to the tables. Then imagine as four men silently stand
a still into which they put their failures. After distillation, at their table, and begin to sing a cappela in beautiful
they mix the resulting alcohol with fresh fruit to make many harmony, their songs for the coming service.
kinds of liqueurs; to finish off the meal, the owners of the Now that's a cantina tour.
chalet brought out Fragolino, a liqueur made from local ~davE raMsdEn
wild strawberries. An explosion of summer flavour in the
mouth awaits; and being Italy, the meal was washed down
with a great espresso. Dave Ramsden started his career in science, but turned to trading
stocks online during the Tech Boom, which he survived. He has discov-
As we headed back down the mountain, the sun had ered that white wines can be really good, particularly if they have a
set and the Cinque Stella was packed (men only, they say). Grand Cru designation. He still trades online, and having survived an-
Build it and they will come. But before we headed home other big crash, is now a trusted name in finance (last man standing).
Have a wine story to share? Send us your stories and we'll choose one to feature at the end of each issue.
Stories can be emailed to jsych@everythingwine.ca, with the caption "Wine Story" in the subject line.
See your story here, next issue!

Everything Wine Magazine Issue 3

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Everything Wine Magazine Issue 3