1. Egypt LAND – of the PYRAMIDS By Jayant Doshi
It was 4.00 a.m. in the morning when most
of the 46 members of those travelling on
the tour of Egypt, and organised by Navnat
Vanik Bhagini Samaj, had gathered at the
airport terminal. Even though it was early,
everyone was in a jovial mood, and
acquaintances were quickly renewed or
formed in no time. Each group member
was given a box with some snacks and
theplas, prepared with care by the
committee members. The box saved us
from hunger, as we did not get anything
worth eating on the flight. The flight, via
Milan, landed at Cairo airport in the searing
heat of Cairo in the afternoon. The tour manager welcomed us, and led us to the coach where we
were introduced to the tour guide. The one-hour drive to the hotel took us through the streets of
Cairo, and we had a glimpse of the life around us.
The Indus valley of India, Babylon region in Iraq and Iran, China and Egypt vie for the position of the
oldest civilisation on this earth. But one thing is certain that Egypt has the oldest recorded civilisation.
Its temples and tombs have carvings telling the history, and these are dated as far back as four
thousand years. Our guide spoke good English, and he gave us a thorough historical background as
and when he got the opportunity. Egypt is part of the great Sahara desert, and the seventy million
people of the country live on a narrow strip along the great river Nile, while rest of the country is a
desert and very thinly populated.
While driving through Cairo, what drew our attention were hundreds of multi-storey houses, which
were incomplete. Most houses were incomplete in one way or the other – either windows missing or
ceilings not completed, or big hole in the wall on some floor or the pillars erected without any walls.
There was no plaster or paint on these buildings, and the construction was haphazard. It surprised
and puzzled us, but the guide explained that people were exploiting a loophole in the law, which
created this maze of unfinished houses.
We reached the hotel, got our rooms and
everyone settled down nicely. Everyone was tired
after a long journey, the heat and the lack of sleep
the previous night. A cook had been brought from
India to cater for our special dietary needs, and
through out the trip we had tasty food for lunch
and dinner. However, when a chance was offered
for an optional cruise on river Nile, some of us
decided to take advantage of the same and see
Cairo by night. For those who have been on
Thames boats at night, there was nothing special
on this cruise, but the belly dancing followed by
some wonderful dancing in colour clothes by a
young man was enchanting and worth the trip.
Next day we started early on our sight seeing. First we visited the great citadel built by the great
Salladin. The citadel also had an impressive mosque inside. This was followed by a visit to the world

2. famous Cairo museum, which has exhibits of mummies, and contents of many tombs inside the
pyramids of famous Pharaohs. We were told
that there are one hundred thousand exhibits
of antiquities in the museum. If one minute
were spent to see each exhibit, then it would
take a few years to see everything. We had
less then two hours, and what ever we were
shown was impressive and enchanting. We
were given a lot of historical background,
which impressed a few and bored many of the
group members. Amongst the highlights was
the tomb and mummy of Tutankhanam
decorated in lots of gold, and all the
possessions found in the tomb in the pyramid.
The pharaohs believed that the soul will come
looking for the body, and the king deserved to
take his worldly possessions for his after life.
This was the reason why tombs and temples
were built in isolated places and on high
ground.
After lunch we were taken to a fortress and one of the impressive historical mosques. We had a
group photo at the fortress. This was followed by a visit to a papyrus shop where we were given a
demonstration of how papyrus paper was made. Egypt is well known for this paper, which is very
strong and long lasting. Many of the oldest historical documents have been written and preserved on
papyrus paper. The stem of the papyrus plant is cut into about nine inch pieces, the bark removed,
and the white middle is soaked in water. The soft middle of the stem is removed and the outer skin is
then rolled to make it flat. These strips are then inter woven and pressed to make paper. The shop
had lots of paintings on these papyrus papers. We also visited perfume shop and cotton clothing
shop. Egypt is famous for its cotton, and also has a speciality in the perfumes.
We were taken to a local market area in the evening. The guide gave strict instructions as to the
roads to follow, and asked everyone to be present at a specific time. As it happens always, while
everyone came on time, two did not show up. We were getting late for the light and sound show and it
was decided to go without the two missing passengers. Luckily, the two knew where our next visit
was, and took a taxi to meet us there.
Language was a big problem, but they
somehow managed to find someone who
could understand. But for that period of time, it
got everyone worried, and it was a great relief
to see them at the show.
Cairo has three pyramids on its outskirts. The
pyramids, one of the wonders of the world, are
amazing and huge in size, and most of them
were built as far as four thousand years back.
It is still a mystery how these huge structures
were built from huge blocks of granite to
heights, which dwarf present day multi-storey
buildings. Each pyramid has a tomb for a
pharaoh, and tomb has various chambers
where worldly things are put for the use of the pharaoh in his next life. Pyramids are built from granite,
one of the heaviest stones, and each block is large. The largest block is estimated to be two hundred
tonnes in weight. It is still a mystery to understand how such huge blocks of granite were transported

3. hundreds of miles at a time when wheel had not been invented, and still more mysterious how they
were raised to those heights.
In the evening we were taken for a sound and
light show at the pyramids. With the clever use
of lights, and recordings, the history of the
pyramids was relayed to a crowd of people
sitting in the open ground in front of the
pyramids and sphinx. At night everyone
gathered outside near the swimming pool, and
introductions were made, and some jokes
cracked. It was only our first day, but it felt as if
we all knew each other for ages, and it was
like a big family get-to-gather. Next morning
we visited the pyramids, and entered one of
the pyramids to look at the inside chambers.
Each pyramid has a central chamber for the
mummy of the pharaoh, and other small chambers to keep all the worldly things he is given to take
with him. Group photos and individual photos were taken at the pyramids and the sphinx.
That evening we were travelling by train to Luxor. Having travelled considerably in India by train, I had
experience of difficulties of travelling in these countries. But the train journey from Cairo to Luxor was
an experience by itself. We were rushed to the station platform, and asked to stand where roughly our
carriages were supposed to stop. While the platform is marked with carriage numbers, they rarely
stop at those points. But even the point at which we were asked to wait also proved to be wrong. As
the train was stopping for only ten minutes there was a scramble and everyone rushed with their
luggage, or whatever they can handle, to get to the coach. While for a few moments it was chaotic, it
all turned out for the best, and soon we were all settled on the train for the night journey. For dinner
we were given theplas to supplement whatever food we might get on the train. There was a lounge
carriage in the train but that was packed. As we were going to wake up early, everyone retired quite
early to their respective cabins. I was surprised to see only one entry and exit door on each
compartment. Not only this made boarding difficult, but also I was surprised that there was no
consideration given to a fire exit in case of a disaster.
Most of the members did not sleep well as the train
journey was noisy, and braking was erratic.
Next morning we arrived at Luxor, and were
transferred to our cruise ship. The ship was small but
luxuriously furnished. It had room for 100 people, but
our group were given the exclusive use of the ship for
the next four days. Well-furnished and air-conditioned
lounge, two tiers of deck with sun-beds and chairs and
tables, and a small swimming pool were at our disposal
for the four days of our stay. The four days on the ship
became the most enjoyable of our trip. During daytime
members used the swimming pool, played cards, or
just relaxed in the shade. The Indian chef made tasty
food for lunch and dinner. We had music and dancing
at night, birthday cakes and celebrations, and a belly
dancer to entertain us all. The ship was abuzz with
happy members of the group. We had some good
jokes and singing during the cruise.
In the afternoon we went to see the Temple of Karnak,
which took 2000 years to build. The whole complex,

4. built from solid granite blocks, and walls and pillars carved with stories of the time and best records of
the past civilisation, is huge and covers a large area. Three kilometres away is Luxor Temple, and
both the temples are connected by sphinx like statues all along the way. Some of the temples we
visited had paintings in colours, which after all
this time still look fresh and bright.
Next morning we visited the valley of Kings. It
has twelve temples including the famous
Tutankhaman Tomb. While the temples are in
ruins, what is still left is lot more then what is lost.
The hylographic writings on the walls have
preserved the past, which no other civilisation
has been able to do. Paintings on the walls are
still in good state. After this we visited the valley
of the Queens and Hatshepsut temple built after
a queen – the only woman pharaoh to have ruled
Egypt. We saw the operation of a lock on the
river, and that fascinated most of the members
who watched the whole process with curiosity.
Riverbed could be at different levels, and for the ship to sail through those different levels, a lock is
built which allows the ship to be lowered or raised to the level on the other side. We had a gala night
and a party at night, and all the members danced the night away. For once we did not have the
restraint of time or the need to control noise.
We visited Edfu temple, which was built in the 4th century B.C., and is the most preserved temple in
Egypt. It has some Greek influence in its architecture. The temple was buried in sand for a long time,
and that is the reason for its good preservation. At night we had a Egyptian night when most
members dressed themselves in Egyptian clothes. We had some mind boggling games and everyone
enjoyed the party. The guide came up with some interesting games, and the group had a good laugh.
Next morning we visited a temple where a crocodile has been mummified. This, and pictures of
snakes on the walls reminded us of the Hindu religious beliefs, and make one wonder who influenced
whom, or where was the origin of such ideas. In the afternoon we had felucca ride. A felucca is a
traditional canvas sail boat of the river Nile. The felucca ride gave us a view of the picturesque river
Nile and the Aswan region. We had another party on the ship. There was music and dancing and a
birthday cake was cut and distributed. At 11.00 p.m. at night some of us walked to the market. At that
time, the place was buzzing with people and activity. When days are extremely hot, it is not surprising
that people rest in the afternoon and come out in force at night.
Next morning we were taken for a city tour of Aswan. Compared to Cairo, Aswan looked much
modern. Buildings were well made and decorated compared to the dilapidated and unfinished
buildings in Cairo. Later we visited Aswan Dam
and the High Dam. The High Dam, or Aswan
Dam as we know it, was built in 1960’s, and it
was one of the largest dam ever built. There
was lot of uproar all over the world when it was
planned. We were not allowed any where near
the actual dam, for security reasons, but had a
look at it from a distance. After this visit, we
were taken for shopping. On all the tours the
members of the trip have an insatiable appetite
for shopping, and in spite of strict instructions
as to timing, it seemed to make little difference
to those who were engrossed in their
shopping.

5. After lunch we had to complete our packing as our
stay on the cruise ship was coming to an end.
Seventeen members of the group were taking the
train to Cairo to fly to London, while rest of the group
was staying one night in a hotel to visit Abu Simbel
the next day. But suddenly it seemed that the happy
family was breaking up, and farewells were said with
promises of keeping in touch. One group was taken to
the station while the rest were taken to their hotel for
the night. It was very hot, and the hotel had a lovely
swimming pool. Some of the group decided to cool
themselves in the pool.
Next morning we were woken up at 3.00 in the
morning, given a cup of tea and packed breakfast,
and we left on our long journey at 4.00. On the way
we stopped to look at an unfinished Obelisk. Obelisk
is a tall pillar with a pointed top like a needle. The
huge Obelisk, which is over 200 feet, and weighs
hundreds of tonnes, is made from one rock. The
incomplete Obelisk was still not totally carved out
from the rock. Experts still cannot work out how such
a huge piece of rock is lifted from the mountain and
transported 150 kilometres to Luxor, and once it
reaches there, how it is raised to its upright position. One such Obelisk has been presented to Britain,
and is erected near the Pall Mall.
Abu Simble has two temples, and was constructed by Rameses II who ruled Egypt from 1290 to 1224
B.C. The temple was covered with sand over a period of time, and was only found by a European
traveller in the late 19th century. Since it was covered in sand for a long period of time, the structure
and the inside paintings have been very well preserved. The temples are carved out from the
mountains. Each temple has four huge statutes at the entrance and they stand at 20 metres height.
The temple itself is 33 metres high, 38 metres wide and 56 metres deep. Inside there are various
chambers, and all the walls are decorated with colourful pictures telling us a story. There are huge
pillars supporting the ceiling. One temple was built for Rameses while the other temple was built for
his wife Nefertari. Normally temples were made for Pharaohs only. But Rameses loved his wife very
dearly and he had the temple made in her memory.
However, when Aswan Dam construction
started in 1960’s and water started coming
near the temples, there was an outcry
through out the world. Appeals were made
to save this valuable heritage. UNESCO
raised 50 million dollars to save the temples.
It took four years to do the great job. First
the mountain was dismantled, and the rocks
stored away. Then each statute was cut
carefully and lifted out from the temple. The
pillars and walls were also carefully cut and
removed from there. The two temples were
reconstructed 60 metres above the original
ground level. When the temples were
reconstructed on their new sites, and the
joints very carefully disguised, and the

6. original looks restored, a huge dome was constructed on
top of each temple, and then that dome was covered with
sand and rocks. Modern technology has done wonders.
Each twenty metre statute had to be cut in several pieces
to be moved. When we look at those statutes today, it
seems totally unbelieveable that it could have been cut
into pieces. Any layman would not even guess that the
temples had been moved from their original places.
We had checked out of the hotel in the morning so when
we came back at lunch time we had no where to go to.
However the tour manager managed to convince the
cruise ship to allow us the use of the ship. We were
taken there, each given a cabin to change and rest, and
we had our usual lunch. We packed our bags and by
evening we were at the station to board our train to
Cairo. We reached Cairo early next morning, and our
flight was in the afternoon. Here also the tour manager
managed us to get into the hotel we had stayed in
previously. Everyone took advantage and caught up with
their sleep. By midday we were on the coach to go to the
airport. Lunch for that day was not included, but by
Egyptian hospitality, we were given a taste of hotly made
falafal,
It had been a lovely holiday. All the members of the group got attached to each other like one big
family. Good byes were said, promises to keep in contact were made, and our bags were packed.
Many of the members of the group asked the organisers to inform them in future whenever any such
trip was planned. Every one enjoyed; the trip was meticulously planned; care was taken of every
small detail; the weaker members of the group were well looked after. Our community organisations
are there to help our community members; this trip provides an excellent example of this in action.