1. Never Say Goodbye by Jayant Doshi
(A report of the trek in the Everest Region from 2nd April till 15th April 2012)
There is a big bill board at the end of any trek in Nepal
which says “Never Say Goodbye to Himalayas.” When I
did my last trek in 2010 I believed myself, and told
everyone, that this was my last trek. But when I got the
offer to do the Island Peak trek I could not resist myself
and now I will never say that this will be my last trek. My
very first major trek took place in 2004 and it was in
Everest region – and now after eight years I was doing
another trek in the same region though the final
destination will be different. This would be my fourth
trek in Nepal, seventh in the Himalayas and eighth
overall - and all undertaken long after my retirement.
This time we were collecting funds for helping children
in remote areas of Nepal to acquire education.
st
I reached Kathmandu on 1 April and met rest of the group. The group consisted of twelve members from all parts of
UK, including one residing in Singapore, but all except
myself, connected and knowing each other through
Sakha. There were two female members. The youngest
in the group had just crossed three decades of his life
while the oldest had crossed seven decades and a bit
over - and that of course is me. Six of the group were
doing Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar – a peak of
about 18500 ft height. I had already done that in 2004. So
I joined the other six who were doing Island Peak which
is a snow covered peak of 6200 metres height (about
20600 ft height). Island Peak is just south of Everest
range of mountains. The excitement of doing that height
over shadowed the question of my ability to do it. In 2008
I found out that my body did not produce enough
haemoglobin, and that in turn would restrict my body to
take and store enough oxygen.
nd
On 2 April we woke up early, were ready and full of enthusiasm and excitement when we drove to the airport. From
Kathmandu airport we had to fly to Lukla in the Everest region which is in the north east corner of Nepal. Lukla is built
on the mountains at a height of 2800 metres (about 9325 ft) and is considered one of the most dangerous airports in
the world. If the visibility is poor, if the skies are cloudy and dark or if weather is poor then the flight gets cancelled. We
waited at the airport hoping to board any minute but
nothing happened. Weather in Lukla was not good and
flights were not leaving Kathmandu. Until the air line
cancels the flights for the day we had to stay available.
The small departure hall at the airport had few seats and
was overcrowded with hundreds of trekkers. On my last
visit in 2004 we hardly saw any trekkers from India but
this time was different. We met a lady who has been
doing trekking in Himalayas for many years and she
encourages others to come and enjoy such trekking. We
spent the day standing around and chatting.
Next day we were promised an early flight and we
reached the airport quite early. But today weather in
Kathmandu was not promising with thick black clouds
which soon turned into heavy showers. The flight was

2. cancelled and we were back in the hotel – but this time
soon after lunch time. Everyone was getting anxious.
Our days were running out and some had plans for the
return. Discussions took place about alternative options
and one option was to take a helicopter. It was decided
that if we do not get flight next morning then we go for
the helicopter option. But next morning skies looked
sunnier and our prospects seemed brighter. However the
flight which was promised for 7.30 was changed to 9.30
and then to 11.30 and ultimately at 12.30 we got the call.
At last we were on our way. Everyone was ecstatic. The
flight took 25 minutes. We were really lucky because we
found out later that only one flight took off after ours and
rest were cancelled due to bad weather.
Lukla airport is amazing. Our 15 seater plane comes out
of nowhere from behind the mountains and wheels down on a runway which is half the size of a football pitch. While
the engine is running, incoming baggage and passengers are down loaded and outgoing baggage and passengers
get on the plane, and within minutes the plane is on its way back. We came out of the plane and went to a tea house
for lunch. After lunch we took out our walking sticks, got our day bags on our shoulders and started our trek. But soon
after we started, the black clouds, which were hovering in the skies, moved in and before we could think, heavy rain
poured over us. We did not get a chance to put on our wet clothes. We were drenched. Our day bags got wet also. In
the cold weather it is very difficult to dry the wet clothes. The rain came heavy at times, including hail storm and kept
raining for most of the time on our way to Phadking which took us about 2 ½ hours. I walked at brisk pace as per my
habit and was ahead of the group most of the time. I was surprised that now telecommunications covered most of the
region and mobiles and internet could be used in this area. I did not bother to find this out before I left. For me, this
trek was the revival of my memories of my first trek.
Everest region is very popular for trekking. The region is
still devoid of any modern contraptions - not even a
bicycle or handcart - and as such air is pure without any
sort of pollution. Lodges, which are called tea houses,
have sprung up all over the area along the trekking
routes. The tea houses have basic accommodation with
two single beds, and toilet facilities, and a large dining
room which is the meeting place for all trekkers, and the
only room which is heated in the evening. I could see that
now the ply board in bed rooms was painted and floor
had a thin carpet which was not the case in 2004. Some
tea houses now provide shower facilities but there is
charge for it and no guarantee that water will be hot or
flowing freely, nor is there guarantee that there will be
clean cabin or provision for change of clothes. But unlike 2004, all tea houses we stayed in had indoor toilets and
showers. I can remember 2004 when we dreaded coming out in the open in cold at mid night to use the toilet. In 2004

3. we used lot of time in dining room chatting with other trekkers, or reading or playing cards. This time it appeared we
never got much time. We spent some time in dining
room some of the days and after dinner went to bed
early, We played cards once or twice but mostly we
hardly got time. Quite often we were walking till late and
as such not much time was left before dinner.
I had severe cramps in the legs during the first night but
no pains or aches in the body. That night my sleep was
disturbed and I woke up early. While others were still to
get ready and start trekking, I took advantage of the
time to do some stretching exercises. We started our
walk at 8.50 and stopped for lunch at noon. We crossed
two bridges, and faced some steep climbs on the way.
After lunch it was mostly uphill steep climb and quite
exacting on the legs. While I managed to stay in front of
the group I could feel that I was tired at the end of our
walk to Namche Bazaar. The last stretch tired me but I did not feel any pains or aches in the body. But the tiring day
meant that I slept well and woke up fresh in the morning.
We woke up to see a thick blanket of snow outside. From the windows the tree branches, leaves, roofs and ground
were totally white and looked beautiful but in my mind I knew we have to go out in that snow. But the relief was that
today was our day for acclimatisation and as such we
were to stay in Namche Bazaar but we still had to go
out and climb some hill to get used to the altitude.
Morning walk was cancelled due to bad weather.
Instead there was demonstration and talk on how best
to use the sleeping bag, how to tie shoe laces, use buff
etc and some of the hints were very useful. Afterwards
we all walked in the local bazaar and did some
shopping. After lunch we went for a walk to Sangboche
at a height of 3850 metres which was 400 metres climb
from where we started. It was a good walk though
weather was cold and windy. Though it was partly
cloudy we did get a glance at the Everest peak and
some other snow covered peaks. On our return the
guide for Island Peak came to check our gear. He
rejected almost everything I had and which I had used
in the past trekking to similar heights and cold temperatures. Other participants had similar experience. The guide was
24 and to me he seemed not experienced enough to take on such a difficult trek. After rejecting many items he never
bothered to find out if the participants had replaced them as he wanted.
On my first trek on this route in 2004 we were only 2 but the guide believed in discipline. We got less than an hour to

4. wake up, pack up, get ready, have breakfast and start walking – and we both always were earlier than the time given.
We were twelve this time. Even though we were given two hours to get ready, we always were late by at least half an
th
hour. On 7 April, we left Namche Bazaar for our trekking. Some of us had to get some items from the shops but rest
started to walk at 8.45. At first there was gentle incline but it got steeper as we went along. Later we walked down into
a valley and crossed a bridge. We stopped for lunch
followed by steep climb which was quite strenuous. My
genetic problem which does not allow my body to
produce enough haemoglobin resulting in my body
craving for oxygen at altitude started affecting me and I
was out of breath on steep climbs.
We would see hundreds of trekkers on the way. When
the path is narrow and sloping we had to wait for the
people coming from the top, and at times the wait would
be quite long. Unlike 2004 every porter seemed to have
a mobile in their hand – some talking away and some
listening to some music. In the mountains and especially
in Everest region, normal day starts with blue skies and
sun shining and by noon the clouds start descending.
The skies soon get a thick cover of dark clouds and wind
force brings a chill in the air. After a few days of cloudy skies,
th
strong winds and rain or snow now and then, we woke up on 8
April with blue sunny skies and had beautiful sighting of snow
covered peaks surrounding our tea house. There had been some
sprinkles of snow during the night. Our walk started down a trek
which had become slushy and slippery. Some of us kept slipping
and the walking sticks saved us from falling. I must have slipped a
few times. One person slipped and fell on his buttocks. Fortunately
there was no injury, but I always had fear of slipping and injuring
myself. But the gradual descending path gave way to open flat
grounds.
It was still clear sky and very sunny. We had our lunch in the open
surrounded by mountains, valleys and streams. It was wonderful. It
took seven hours walking to reach Dingboche, our stop for the
night. It was the worst tea house we had so far. There were no
light except in the dining hall, toilet seats were missing and overall
the standard was very poor – but I slept well. Our tea house was
surrounded by lovely peaks and I took opportunity to take some
photos. Today the two groups were splitting. Every one expressed
good wishes to others. Six were going to Everest Base Camp and
Kala Patthar while we six were going to Island Peak. For our
group, destination today was Chukung. It was pretty cold when we

5. reached there just before lunch. After lunch we were
taken to the hiring shop where we were shown the use of
all the items we would be using for the Island Peak. The
items were tried on and then each one of us was given
the crampons, helmets, harness, hooks, ropes and the
axe. We carried all these back to our rooms. We were to
carry these in our day bags from next day. The items were
bulky and quite heavy, and we were to carry these from
next day till we complete the Island Peak, if we were to
make it.
In our itinerary it stated that after Chukung we will spend
one night in tents in Base Camp and then one night at
High Camp before we attempt Island Peak. This would
have been more logical and practical way of doing it. The
guide said that there was no High Camp and he wanted us to go to Base Camp very next morning. We objected and
ultimately it was decided that we stay one more night at Chukung to get a chance to acclimatise. While the tour
company which organised the trek did a good job, and provided a good guide for the trek, it seems that the guide
selected for Island Peak seemed immature and inexperienced. While rejecting most of our gear he did not bother to
check if we had acted on his advice. When we left for Chukung he did not bother to check if each one was well
prepared. He never gave any instructions or encouragement or talked about the difficulties.
Next morning the weather was misty and cloudy and it
snowed also. We started our walk to climb a hill which
was 5300 metres high. Assuming it will be warm during
the day I did not take warm clothes. I realised soon that
I was not properly dressed for the weather. As normal I
struggled walking uphill though it was not that bad. I
made to the top. We rested for a while and had some
snacks. But when we started walking down I felt odd in
my stomach and got some curious feeling in the body.
For once I struggled walking down. I trailed right behind
the rest and just managed to get back. All these days I
was normally ahead of rest of the trekkers and kept
ahead all the way whether it was uphill or downhill. But
for once I felt that it was a struggle walking. I trailed far
behind rest of the group. My body felt frozen and on my return I got into my warm sleeping bag and lay there for some
time. I developed a minor headache and felt uneasy in the body. I took some pain killers. I slept well but the headache
lingered whole night. I woke up with a cold and a lingering headache.
We got up and prepared ourselves for what would be the critical 24 hours. First we walked to the base camp. It was a
simple very gradual ascent but even there I struggled to walk. The walk I had day before seemed to have affected me.
The funny feeling in the stomach, lingering headache and the cold seemed to have sapped my energy. I found it
difficult to breathe on very moderate inclines also and I had to keep stopping every now and then. We reached the
base camp. I lay down in the sleeping bag to rest myself
– and thinking about it now this was unusual for me as
after very long days walking I always was still fresh. It
seems my body immunity and resistance were affected
by whatever happened during the last 24 hours. I got up
for lunch. After lunch we were given training in the use of
the harness and the ropes on the slope of a nearby hill.
After the practice we tried to sleep but could not manage
to get any sleep. We were called for dinner at 6.00 p.m.
We were to start our trek to Island Peak at 1.00 a.m. We
would be getting our breakfast at midnight. After dinner a
few questions were raised with the guide. It was
suggested that he should arrange for a third guide and
he agreed that he will do so. He never acted on his

6. promise. I raised the question that if any one of the
trekkers decides to turn back then how will he come
back. And his answer shocked me. “He has to walk back
himself to the base camp.” How could he be so
irresponsible in his attitude? When the trek is planned
the first question is always what happens if someone
needs to go back and the answer is always that a porter
or a guide will accompany the person. Our porters were
available and the guide only had to ask them to
accompany us till snow line and the porters can bring
the returning trekker safely back to the base camp. But
the guide did not want to listen.
I went to sleep but my mind was disturbed. My sense of
direction is poor and I know very well that if I had to
return, especially in the dark, I would easily get lost. And
we were to walk in the dark for 6 hours. If I get injured during the trek or if I fall sick it would be understandable but if I
were to get lost in the mountains I would become laughing stock and my family would never forgive me. During
trekking guides make sure one is in front and one at the
back of the group so that no one gets lost. And this guide
was telling us to walk back on our own. I shivered with
the thought.
We woke at midnight, got ready and went for breakfast.
Unlike other guides, this guide did not bother to check if
everyone was properly ready, that they carried all the
equipment we had hired and did not give any talk or
instructions. We six trekkers started with the main guide
in front and the other one at the end. But unlike other
places where we start walking slowly and follow in one
line, this guide made a dash and within minutes he was
out of sight. I had to increase my pace to keep up with
the rest. We had hardly woken up from half sleep, we
had no chance to stretch or loosen our limbs and this
speed walking affected my breathing. We just had
breakfast, and I guess my body could not cope both digesting the food and do speed walking. When we did Mr
Kilimanjaro the guides insisted and made sure we walked very slowly – one step at a time and the whole group was
made to stay together. Here the guide was not even bothered to see if others were coming behind him or not.
At the very first incline I struggled and I had to stop. I knew from past experience that I would be able to walk but I also
knew that I will not be able to keep up with the rest when it comes to uphill walking. Also I had that fear in my mind –
that vision of getting lost in the mountains. At some stage if I found it difficult to carry on and if I was to decide to turn
back, would I be able to find my way back? And if I got lost what chance I had of surviving? The guide expected us to
walk back in the dark, where there were no proper tracks to follow and the whole area was littered with rocks. On the
spur of the moment I decided that I did not want to take that chance – and I told others that I was turning back. From
my walking ability I knew and I was confident that I would have been able to walk for hours – and made at least to the
snow line. But the fear gripped me and I panicked and
decided to turn back. This was not the time to complain
or talk to the guide, or ask others to wait for me.
I came back and got into my tent. I slept but not too
well. Early in the morning I could hear voices and I
knew at least two of others had returned. I did not come
out of the tent till 10.00. I had my breakfast. The other
two came out after a while. They had turned back after
about 3 hours of walking, and they had problem finding
the base camp. One of them tripped and slipped several
times but avoided any injury. They were almost lost but
luckily saw the tents from a distance and found their

7. way. We decided to start walking to Dingboche without waiting for others as we were not sure when they would be
coming back. We left base camp at noon. We returned our mountaineering gear at Chukung and continued our walk
to Dingboche. It was a long walk. On the way we saw posters of a trekker lost in the mountains, and asking for
information if any one saw the person. I got thinking. It could have been one of us. The thought brought shivers. How
could the guide be so reckless and irresponsible to suggest that we had to return to base camp on our own? There
was no need for him to even suggest that as two porters would have willingly accompanied us. The tour company
should take appropriate action on this issue to avoid such a thing happening to any other group of trekkers. The tour
organiser, through no fault of his, would have had sleepless nights or perhaps blamed himself for life, if something had
happened to any one of us.
The porter and one of our members had walked faster and we two found that while we could see Dingboche, we could
not find the right path. However, when we seemed lost or confused, the guide came looking for us to show us the right

8. path. It was sunset by the time we reached our tea house. The other group was at Dingboche. The guide gave us the
news on the way. One person had kidney problem and was flown to Kathmandu. One other had some heart problem
and he decided not to go any further and one of the ladies decided to stay behind. Other three made to the Everest
base camp and climbed Kala Patthar successfully. They were lucky as they got very clear skies and a beautiful
sighting of Mount Everest and other peaks.
We had lost two days at Kathmandu airport but we
decided to catch up with the lost time by walking longer
in the last three days. Next morning we started our long
walk to Namche Bazaar. Other three members of our
group caught up with us. Only one of the three made to
the top of Island Peak. Other two reached up to snow
line. The guide, who checked our gear and advised to
change our gear did not check his own gear. His shoes
were split and he could not do the Island Peak. The
assistant guide went up but it was his first time. Naresh
Chauhan who made to the top of the peak literally
helped the assistant guide to climb up the Island Peak
when the guide should have been helping the trekker. If
we failed to make Island Peak them amongst many
reasons the time allowed to do it needed to be longer,
and the immature and irresponsible guide could be blamed for the fiasco. We walked for almost eleven hours to reach
Namche Bazaar.
Next day our walk to Lukla also took eleven hours or more. Like the first day it rained later in the day. There were
steps that led to Lukla and we felt a sigh of relief that we were near the destination. But the steps seemed endless.
Every time we felt that we had reached the top, we saw more steps which were concealed round the corner. We must
have climbed up the steps for more than one and half hours and it felt so tiring. We heaved a sigh of relief when we

9. entered the little town of Lukla. But the guide and one member had disappeared and we did not know which tea house
we were staying. We went into a few tea houses before we found the one we were staying at. Before dinner we
completed the formalities of saying our farewells to all the porters who would be leaving us and gave tips on behalf of
the group.
We all made it and were in high spirits after an almost successful trekking trip. I was disappointed but at the same time
happy. I had no body aches and pains during the trek and I rarely needed to crash down after a long day’s trekking. I
do not think I felt so good even on my very first trek eight years back. I felt satisfied with my performance and in my
mind felt that I could still manage another such trek. After spending a day at Kathmandu I said my farewell to all my
fellow trekkers and thanked them for accepting me and giving me so much respect.
Walking in the mountains with valleys and rivers and greenery and snow covered peaks is just wonderful. The air is
pure. One is cut off from the world. There are no distractions and no work to worry about. After doing 18 and 19 days
of trekking this one seemed very short. Every one carried out months and months of training for the trek – I did not do
any special training. But it gave me great satisfaction that I was not in any pain, did not suffer any body aches, did not
need to rest after a long days walking, and I managed to stay in front most of the time. I guess my legs could muster
enough strength to do another trek.
IContact jubhai@aol.com and all reports on www.jayantdoshi.yolasiite.com)