1. South America – Holiday with a Difference. By Jayant Doshi
With years of successful trips, Navnat Bhagini
Samaj has built a reputation that ensures
success for every trip. However, when the trip to
Brazil and Argentina was announced, it did not
draw the same sort of support. Partly due to
lack of publicity, partly due to a feeling that the
itinerary lacked lustre and lacked some
destinations like Peru, meant that only 18
members signed for this trip. And before the trip
started, one member was taken seriously ill and
had to drop out. The small group had an
international hue – two from India, two from
Canada (who joined from Buenos Aires) and
rest from England.
On Tuesday 27th January 2009, 15 members of
the trip were given a farewell by president and committee members of Bhagini at the airport, and the
most welcome lunch pack, which as before became a blessing in disguise. After almost an eleven hour
overnight flight, we reached Sao Paulo where we were in transit for our next flight to Buenos Aires,
with a wait of almost five hours. As was to be expected the food on the flight was not filling, and
everyone opened that Bhagini lunch box and had
a good meal at the airport. We reached Buenos
Aires, and settled down in our hotel. Some
walked around the hotel, and after dinner some
went walking while rest decided for an early
night after the long flight.
Buenos Aires is a modern city with lot of
European influence in its buildings. Next day we
had a city tour and after driving through its busy
streets, we stopped at May Square. This square
is famous for all political protests in this country.
At the end of the square is a pink government
building, and to stop protesters blocking that
building permanent cordon is kept to protect the
building, and people who use it. We visited a
nearby cathedral with the usual stained glass windows, paintings and statutes. After that we visited
a unique type of cemetery where families have built mausoleums to bury every member of the family
over decades or even longer. Each mausoleum is built in style and using expensive stones and
statutes. It was impressive, though now this sort of cemetery is not possible due to lack of land.
Lunch was in an Indian restaurant. The Indian
owner was married to an Argentinian lady who
had adopted lot of Indian culture and way of
life. We had nice lunch followed by the best ice
cream we have ever tasted. After lunch it was
free time, and we took a local train to the river
side. We had a long walk to the river, and along
the bank of the river. We satisfied everyone’s
desire to taste the local famous ice cream. On
the way back we walked through a street
called Florida which is similar to our Carnaby
Street, with no cars allowed, and lot of vendors
and entertainers on the street.
Next day we had a free day also and had to
take our own excursion. Eleven decided to go to
2. a ranch while the other six decided to take a boat trip in the delta. I opted for the ranch. We were
given a brief history of the Gauchos, who are like
the cowboys of South America. Their
distinguishing attire is the poncho. We drove
through the country side to arrive at the ranch
which has been developed basically for the
tourists to give them a taste of life on a ranch. On
our arrival we were offered horses or horse carts
to ride in. There was a huge lake nearby, and
the horse ride gave a whiff of the country side.
Later we all took a ride in a tractor through the
forest. After a sumptuous lunch we were
entertained by a group of dancers, and shown
some skills in horse riding. The day turned out to
be a great success. Seeing the beauty of the
countryside, and all the activities we did during
the day made it a successful excursion.
The other group of six, who had planned a boat ride in the river delta were not so lucky. The train
which they had to take to reach the boat never moved, and as they were running short of time they
had to come back. In the evening, we were taken to a show in a modern art décor theatre. After
dinner we were entertained by a stage show that included tango dancing. South America is famous
for its tango dancing and everyone enjoyed a demonstration of the same.
We had a flight to catch to go to Iguazu Falls.
We all had to wake up before 4.00 a.m. to
catch our flight which left at 7.00 a.m. We
were picked from the airport and driven
straight to Iguazu Falls. The falls is on the
border of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay. The
sight of the falls is breathtaking. I have seen
Niagara and Victoria Falls but the spread of
Iguazu and the force of the water coming
down is just amazing. The falls spread over a
three kilometre stretch. The height of the falls
may not compare with Niagara, but the
amount of water gushing down those falls is
amazing. Iguazu Falls is trying to be listed as
one of the wonders of Nature.
We saw the falls from different levels of platforms and paths built for tourists. We saw from a lower
level where we can see the mist created by the water falling, and felt the splash of the water on the
viewing platform. We went to the upper level and saw the majesty of the falls from the top. While in
Niagara one can take a boat ride and go behind the falls, here the boat ride can go only about a
hundred yards away from the water falls. The
force of the water splashing and the mist it
creates is so much that in the boat we were
almost drenched in spite of good covering. The
boat ride was fantastic and every one enjoyed
it. The boat went to the main falls till we got the
water on us, and it went several times to an
isolated falls in speed to give the thrill to the
participants. We went back to the hotel and
spent some time in the swimming pool and the
sauna.
Next day we crossed into Brazil, and visited the
Iguazu Falls from the Brazilian side. While the
view from Argentina side is spectacular, the
view from Brazil side is no less exciting. The
3. metal pathway built to go to the nearest point takes us quite near to the falls, and gives a very
exciting view of the falls. After lunch, we had a
free afternoon and we decided to take an
excursion. We were taken through thick forest in
a open vehicle. We had a good glimpse of the
vegetation of the thick forest, some lovely birds
and butterflies. Some of us walked along the
route. Later we had a ride on the boat on the
upper level of the river. We had some speed
rides in the boat, and later we were given an
opportunity to do kayak canoeing. Three of us
took up the challenge and tried our hand at
canoeing. We struggled, and kept going round
and round. In the end we got hang of it, and
managed to make back to the boat without any
assistance.
Next day was a day of relaxation. We had an early morning yoga sessions where most of the
participants took part. After leisurely breakfast, we left for a gift shop at 11.00 followed by lunch.
Everyone had an afternoon nap. In the evening we had dinner with a folklore show with combination
of Latin music, dances, and colourful garments. Each dance represented different states and cultures
of South America.
We woke up at ease, and after breakfast went
for a walk and found the site which marks the
borders of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. We
talked to the guide about this site, and the
whole coach was taken for the rest of the group
to take photos at this site. Today we were flying
to Rio de Janeiro, and while we had time for our
flight, we planned to leave early so we can get a
chance to taste sugar cane juice on the way.
Just as well, because that an extra hour came
to our rescue. While we had crossed the border
twice the day before, today we were entering
Brazil. At the passport control, one passport
was held back. At first the reason given was
that the passport number could not be read by
the machine, but it later transpired that the passport happened to have the same number as a
passport of a missing person in USA. We waited for long time in the coach. Offices in Sao Paulo were
on lunch break and nothing could be done to expedite matters. It became obvious that all faces had
signs of worry. Our tour manager offered to stay provided others were allowed to go for lunch. After
lunch we waited for half an hour before the matter got cleared. Suddenly, it seems, they realised that
this was British passport, while the other
passport was American. This delay meant that
we had to forego our sugar cane juice, and had
to head straight to the airport. We reached Rio
at 8.00, had dinner and retired to our rooms.
Brazil is a country where the racial divide has
been erased over the centuries. One can see
people of every colour and hue, a result of
integration of various ethnic groups. There is no
sign or inkling of any racial prejudice or visible
differentiation. While rest of South America
speaks Spanish, Brazil speaks Portugese. Rio
de Janeiro, or Rio in short, is world famous for
its beach, and for its annual carnival which
takes place at the end of February. For various
reasons we could not plan our holiday over that
4. period and so had to miss that spectacle. Rio is unique. It has a range of mountains dividing the city
into two. The south part is the richer part of the
city, while the north has lots of slums. A three
kilometre tunnel joins the two parts of the city.
We were staying in the south part. Our hotel
was right in the middle of busy street with
shops and stores of every description. Just
down the road, about a few hundred yards, we
come to the most magnificent beach called
Copacabana. The sand is like fine flour, and the
beach is broad and long. We took a long walk
along the beach in the morning. The sea waves
were very inviting but we were not prepared for
that.
That morning we had a half day sight seeing
tour of the city. Then we visited one of the
mountains with a huge statute of Christ. It is normal to see Christ statute or picture in a position of
torture – either nailed to the cross, or carrying the cross on his shoulder or with a crown of thorns. But
this Rio statute is different. The huge statute shows Christ with his arms spread in a welcoming
posture, and facing the Atlantic ocean. It is said that the statute symbolises Christ welcoming people
to this land. This posture was selected after submission of different designs from many people, and
this posture was selected. The surprising fact is that the design was not even done by a Catholic or a
Christian, but by a Jew. Lots of photos were taken at this site. The spot also gave a wonderful sight
of the whole of Rio from the top of this mountain.
We went for lunch to a restaurant which went out
of its way to please us. A statute of Buddha
decorated the room where we were sat, and some
photos of Hindu deities added to the decorations.
All the waitresses had bindi on their forehead,
and their aprons had pictures of Indian
goddesses. Incense sticks were burnt, and Jain
stavans were playing on the CD player. It was
very impressive effort and pleased our group.
Coincidentally, while we were in Brazil, a new
soap opera had started on the national television
and the soap opera was based on an orthodox
family in India, and some way connected to a
family in Brazil. The soap opera was meant to
give an insight and knowledge of the Indian
culture and religion. In the early episodes the origins of the caste system were explained to a
population totally unawares of the Indian culture. During our stay, we could see that there was keen
interest in the soap opera which was broadcast for an hour at the peak time. However, we, and
specially the ladies in our group in sarees,
became the centre of focus wherever we went,
and quite often we were asked questions about
our attire, the bindi and other general questions
about India.
After lunch we had some rest, and then went to
the ocean and enjoyed the huge waves of water
that splashed on our bodies. Wave after wave
did not even give us a chance to recover from the
previous wave. Hot sunshine, and warm sea
waters that splashed on our bodies, giving a
wonderful massage, gave us so much pleasure
that there was no desire to leave.
Next morning we had a long walk along the
beach. During our walks we would find out
5. what exotic fruits we can buy, or where we can
get juices or anything else that may be of
interest to others. Members of our entourage
were very happy with what we did for them.
Today we were taken to the Sugar Loaf
Mountain by cable car. From the top of this
mountain one can get a wonderful sighting of
the Jesus Christ statute, and also the city of
Rio. Later we walked through the city’s
botanical garden with acres of trees and plants.
After lunch we had a visit to the modern
cathedral, designed in a very modern style, and
beautifully made. We had afternoon of rest
though some ladies went for shopping. In the
evening, though it was raining we went onto
the beach and had good time in the sea with
different sort of waves. Today any one standing on the edge of the water would be splashed by the
on coming waves.
Next day was a free day at leisure. As usual some of us went for the morning walk, and dipped into
the sea and enjoyed the strong waves that splattered our bodies. After breakfast we went again on a
walk, looked around the shops, and drank
cocoanut water. After long search, we at last
found a place to get sugar cane juice and every
one had the pleasure of drinking that juice,
having desired the same ever since our trip
began. We purchased some passion fruits and
custard apples for everyone, and went back to
the hotel for our lunch. After some rest in the
afternoon, some of us again were on the beach in
the sea enjoying the wonderful beach and the
waves in the sea. The waves were strong, and
much nearer the shore line, and knocked us
down many times. At night, after dinner in an
Indian restaurant, we went to see a popular
folklore show. The show was magnificent, the
costumes colourful and some of the dances were
wonderful.
Today we were travelling to our next destination, and we had time for that. We slept till late as we
had a late night. During our morning walk we found custard apple juice, tasted it and then we
brought every one to try it, and every one appreciated that. While we had tried custard apple milk
shake in the past, it was first time that we tried its juice. Later the coach took us to the sea side resort
of Buzio, a sleepy fishing village which became
famous after the beautiful French actress
Brigitte Bardot made it famous. To day the
fishing village has become a thriving tourist
resort with lots of hotels, yachts and visitors.
We spent the evening swimming and relaxing
in the sauna.
During our stay in Buzio we were taken to a
vegetarian restaurant for our meals. On the
ground floor there was a shop selling all sorts
of things of Indian interest, including statutes
and photos of Buddha, and other Hindus gods
and goddesses, incense sticks, and other
handicrafts and items connected with Hindu
religion. They also had dozens of different
books in Portugese on yoga, meditation etc. The
6. shop owner could speak English, and was firm follower of Buddhist religion, and a staunch lover of
India. He visited India every year. Upstairs
another lady ran a vegetarian restaurant, and
she also loved India and went to India every
year. They catered for people who were
vegetarians, but the food was not much to our
liking. Our ladies soon became friendly with the
owner and arranged to make certain things in
the kitchen for our other meals. One day we had
pav bhaji, and one day we had paratha and
potato curry.
Next day we had a open tram sight seeing tour
of the area. We went through thick forest and
saw all the beaches in the surrounding area.
The small village is beautiful. A bronze statute
of Brigitte Bardot is placed on the beach, and
the path along the beach is named after her. Lot
of shops have grown up to cater for the tourists. That afternoon we rested, and in the evening had a
long walk in the town. Some of the ladies had booked massage. The day after we took a boat ride
that took us around the Buzio and the surrounding islands. The boat made three stops in not too deep
waters to let the passengers come out and take a swim in the blue waters of the ocean. I had booked
massage after lunch, but found out later the masseur had misunderstood and thought I had cancelled
the appointment.
We left for Rio airport at five in the evening, and
the four hour flight to Manus was at 10.45.
However, because of the two hour time
difference it was 2.00 a.m. by the time we
reached our hotel. It was a long day for us. We
had to wake up at 6.00 in the morning to get on
the coach to Eco Park in the Amazon forest. After
breakfast we had some time and we walked in
the city of Manus. Manus is the biggest city in
this part of Brazil, and has lots of development,
industry and mining which has brought
prosperity to this part of the country.
We reached the Eco Park before mid-day. It is a
resort built right inside the Amazon forest.
Wooden huts have living accommodation, and
central restaurant and reception area comprises the whole resort. It is built on the shores of Negro
river, one of the tributaries of the huge Amazon river. But even this tributary was huge with width of
more then a kilometre. The water here was totally black, and we were told that certain tree leaves
emitted that colour. Due to heavy rains, we could see parts of the forest, and lots of trees half in
water. We had a boat ride scheduled to see
monkey feeding but we were told that the
program had been cancelled for that morning.
Following lunch and some rest, we went in a
boat to see crocodiles, alligators and dolphins.
We saw some dolphins, but it was no more then
a glance from a long distance. We saw a few
crocodiles and alligators. We had a long session
of playing cards after dinner.
Today we had a whole day trip planned in the
boat, going down the Amazon river. We sailed
along Negro river with its pitch black waters,
and joined the main Amazon river with its coffee
coloured brown waters. The meeting of Negro
7. and Amazon creates a line of demarcation which shows black one side and brown waters on the
other side, as if the two waters are refusing to
mix and mingle. We passed Manus with its tall
concrete buildings, busy river front with
containers, and ships, industries that spread
all over the area. By boat it is 7000 kilometres
distance between Manus and Rio. The
Amazon at this juncture looks more like the
open ocean.
We stopped for our lunch and saw some
dolphins and then we were taken in small
boats in deep jungle, the boat manuovering
between the trees and the thick growth that is
the characteristic of this forest. We saw some
crocodiles and alligators en-route. We stopped
at a cottage shop on the river, and some ladies
took the opportunity to spend some money. The local people, including children, had pets that
included different species of small monkeys, pythons, snakes and small alligators which they were
holding in hand, and we were offered to take photos with these animals – either standing with the
carers or to hold them ourselves. Some did venture to have the python around the neck to take the
photos.
We headed back to our resort around four. Soon
after, the clouds started gathering and became
thick and dark in no time. Rain was in the air,
but we were not prepared for what happened
later. Before six, it was very dark. Lightening
and thunder changed the whole atmosphere.
Bright lightening like a zigzag from the sky to
the earth in the very dark clouds looked like as
if tube lights had been lit in the sky. The noise of
the thunder was frightening. Rain started
lashing, and cold winds started blowing
everything. Our group panicked. Rain coats and
warm clothes came out. Look of fright was
apparent on faces. Most of our colleagues took
refuge in the only corner available with shelter
on their heads, and huddled close together. I guess this way they were close to each other supporting
each other, and perhaps keeping warm. Some were trembling and shaking. The boat was rocking.
Some had their hands folded in prayer and looks of fear were apparent on most faces. Some of us
braved the storm and went near the pilot cabin to gauge the situation. It was so dark, and the rain on
the window was making it impossible for the pilot to see ahead. He kept coming out of the cabin and
switching on and off the flood lights to see if
there was any rock, land or obstruction ahead.
Rain had now slowed down but the winds were
still strong. As there were lots of trees and rocks
in the river the boat had to move very slowly to
avoid any mishap. We reached our resort almost
at eight, and one could see a sigh of relief on all
faces. Some thanked the almighty, and others
were glad that their prayers were answered.
Today was our last day in Eco Park. In the
morning many of us planned a walk in the thick
forest. Walking through the growth on the
ground, avoiding low trees and branches,
listening to the birds, and getting sight of
different species of birds was a new experience
for most. Later we went to see monkeys being fed. For the first time in our trip, that afternoon had
8. heavy rains when we were planning to rest. At
3.00 we left to visit a local Indian village. There
we were given a demonstration of their music
and dancing.
Today was our last night. Normally it is the gala
night. But here we had no option to arrange
such a night as we could not have special
dinner made for us, nor could we organise any
music. However, our ladies came up with a
brilliant idea. Every one had packets of
savouries given by the tour company. The ladies
organised to make bhel out of it. They asked the
kitchen staff to cut onions and chillies, and some
sauces were concocted and we had nice bhel for
dinner.
This was a holiday with a difference. We were only seventeen, which made bonding much easier,
and there were no squabbles over things like seating in the coach, or dining table, to time wasted in
waiting for any one. Being a small group, we collected a kitty and all common expenses were made
from the same. Members of the group enjoyed various fruits and fruit juices from the kitty, which
made it easy to purchase and share out things. There was no checking-in, sleeping, packing the bags
and checking out almost every day. There were no long coach trips travelling from point to point, and
looking through concrete jungles. We had lot of easy going, relaxing times along the trip. We had less
of concrete monuments to visit but a lot of nature to appreciate. We had relaxing time, and lots of
activities. Swimming in the sea with huge waves, going on boats, and swimming in mid-sea,
canoeing, walking in the forest, boat ride along the river, staying in the midst of thick forest, watching
birds and wild animals, watching some wonderful dance and folklore shows represented a holiday
with a difference. The amazing Iguazu Falls, the boat ride and walking around that huge falls was
amazing. Every one enjoyed one way or the other. Some made the best of every moment, while others
took it easy and enjoyed in their own ways.
We did not have the usual Indian food all the
time, but whatever we got was satisfying and
filling. We had lots of fruits at breakfast and
other meals also. There was laughter and
chatting all along the trip, and days flew by
with joy and pleasure. Everyone had
misgivings about the trip, and many like myself
had come with the philosophy that these are
countries we are not likely to visit again in
future.
We had some time in the morning. Two of us
decided to do canoeing in the river in the
morning. Our guide took us in the canoe. We
tried canoeing for a short while. The guide took
us in the submerged part of the forest going through trees and vegetation. On our return it was time to
pack up and get ready for our bus ride to Manus, then a flight to Sao Paulo, and then our long flight to
London. It was going to be a long day of long flights, and lot of waiting at the airports. But we did it
and all reached London next day afternoon. We had all said our good byes the previous night.
Looking back, this had turned out to be the best holiday in a long time.
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