Tech pack with detailed garment specifications and construction details for a box pleated dress. Additional analysis is provided for the choices made and how these affect the quality and price of the garment.
4. DESIGN SHEET WITH CAD'S
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, March 12, 2012
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 ‐ 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A‐line skirt
5. MAIN FABRIC DETAILS
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, March 12, 2012
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 ‐ 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A‐line skirt
FABRIC NAME: Poplin FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton
THREAD COUNT: 128x52 COLOR APPLICATION: Yarn Dye
FABRIC WEIGHT: 4.02 oz/yd² GARMENT PLACEMENT: Shell
FABRIC MILL, REF/ART # & COUNTRY: N/A
6. FABRIC 2 DETAILS
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, March 12, 2012
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 ‐ 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A‐line skirt
FABRIC NAME: Satin FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton
THREAD COUNT: 224x120 COLOR APPLICATION: Piece Dye
FABRIC WEIGHT: 3.2 oz/yd² GARMENT PLACEMENT: Facing
FABRIC MILL, REF/ART # & COUNTRY: N/A
7. FABRIC & TRIM PLACEMENT ‐ FRONT
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, March 12, 2012
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 ‐ 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A‐line skirt
8. FABRIC & TRIM PLACEMENT ‐ BACK
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, March 12, 2012
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 ‐ 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A‐line skirt
9. FABRIC & TRIM PLACEMENT ‐ INSIDE
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, March 12, 2012
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 ‐ 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A‐line skirt
10. LABEL PLACEMENT & PACKAGING
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, March 12, 2012
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 ‐ 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A‐line skirt
11. ESTIMATED BILL OF MATERIALS - DRESS
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, January 30, 2012
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 - 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
SIZE /
WIDTH / APPROXIMATE COST
COLOR COMBO FABRIC /ITEM PLACEMENT ON GARMENT COLOR WEIGHT QUANTITY RANGE
Blossom 100% Cotton Poplin Self Blossom TPX 13-1409 60" 1 1/2 yd $10.64 - $32.25
100% Rayon Satin Lining Lining Blush TPX 13-1409 45" 2 yd
Interfacing Waistband, Neck, Armholes White 20" 1/4 yd
Blossom Grosgrain Ribbon Center Front Black 1" 1 4%
Invisible Zipper Center Back Pink 21" 1
Brand Label Center Back 1
Care/Content Label Center Back 1
Size Label Center Back 1
Country of Origin Label Center Back 1
Thread Allover DTM T60 210 yd
Hook & Eye Center Back Metal 1
12. DRESS SAMPLE SPECIFICATION WORKSHEET
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, January 23, 2012
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 - 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
POINT OF MEASUREMENT SAMPLE SKETCHES
MEASUREMENTS ARE: Circumfrence SIZE: 8 FRONT
Body Functional Design Requested
POM # Description Measurement Ease Ease Measurement
1 Front Length from HPS 34
10 Chest Width (1" below armhole) 35 1/2 1 36 1/2
13 Across Shoulder 15 3/4 15 3/4
20 Waist Width (14" from HPS) 27 1/2 1 28 1/2
91 Hip Width (24" from HPS) 38 2 40
95 Sweep 50
43 Armhole width - Curved 16 1/4 16 1/4
60 Front Neck Drop (HPS to seam) 3
61 Back Neck Drop (HPS to seam) 2
63 Neck Width (HPS to HPS) 11 3/4
156 Shoulder Slope 2
BACK
13. DRESS POM PLACEMENT SKETCH - FRONT
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, January 23, 2012
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 - 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
14. DRESS POM PLACEMENT SKETCH - BACK
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, January 23, 2012
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 - 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
15. ESTIMATED PATTERN CARD - DRESS
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, February 06, 2012
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 - 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
26 TOTAL NUMBER OF PATTERN PIECES TO CUT SKETCH
QTY PATTERN PIECE FABRIC MATCHING/NAP FRONT
1 Front Bodice 100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
2 Side Front Bodice 100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
2 Back Bodice 100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
2 Side Back Bodice 100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
1 Front Skirt 100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
2 Side Front Skirt 100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
2 Back Skirt 100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
2 Side Back Skirt 100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
1 Front Facing 100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
1 Back Facing 100% Cotton Poplin match vertically
LINING
1 Front Lining 100% Rayon Satin Lining
2 Side Front Lining 100% Rayon Satin Lining
2 Back Lining 100% Rayon Satin Lining BACK
2 Side Back Lining 100% Rayon Satin Lining
INTERFACING
1 Front Facing 100% Polyester Fusible
2 Back Facing 100% Polyester Fusible
16. ESTIMATED CONSTRUCTION CALLOUTS - DRESS
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, February 27, 2012
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 - 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
TOTAL ESTIMATED COST FOR GARMENT MAKE: $22.45
LOCATION/DESCRIPTION CONSTRUCTION/SEAM FINISH/TOP STITCH SPI EST. COST SKETCH
Join Front & Side Front with Busted Seam &
Front Bodice Princess Seam 14-16 $1.50
Overedge Finish
Set Pleats on Front Skirt & Stitch Closed 14-16 $0.90
Front Waistline
Join Front Bodice & Skirt with Busted Seam &
14-16 $0.75
Overedge Finish
ESTIMATED COST SUBTOTAL: $3.15
LOCATION/DESCRIPTION CONSTRUCTION/SEAM FINISH/TOP STITCH SPI EST. COST SKETCH
Join Back & Side Back with Busted Seam &
Back Bodice Princess Seam 14-16 $1.50
Overedge Finish
Set Pleats on Back Skirt & Stitch Closed 14-16 $0.90
Back Waistline
Join Back Bodice & Skirt with Busted Seam &
14-16 $0.75
Overedge Finish
Waistline Attach Grosgrain Ribbon with SN Lockstitch 14-16 $1.00
Join Backs with Busted Seam & Overedge
14-16 $0.75
Finish
Center Back Seam
Set Invisible Zipper 14-16 $0.50
ESTIMATED COST SUBTOTAL: $5.40
17. ESTIMATED CONSTRUCTION CALLOUTS - DRESS
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, February 27, 2012
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 - 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
LOCATION/DESCRIPTION CONSTRUCTION/SEAM FINISH/TOP STITCH SPI EST. COST SKETCH
Join Front & Back with Busted Seam &
Sideseam 14-16 2.4
Overedge Finish
Shoulder Seam Join Front & Back with SN Lockstitch 14-16 $0.30
Neckline SN Understitching 14-16 $0.50
Armhole SN Understitching 14-16 $0.50
ESTIMATED COST SUBTOTAL: $3.70
LOCATION/DESCRIPTION CONSTRUCTION/SEAM FINISH/TOP STITCH SPI EST. COST SKETCH
Join Front & Front Side Linings with French
Front Princess Seam 14-16 $1.60
Seam
Center Back Seam Join Back Linings with French Seam 14-16 $0.50
Back Princess Seam Join Back & Side Linings with French Seam 14-16 $1.60
Sideseam Join Front & Back Linings with French Seam 14-16 $1.60
Shoulder Seam Join Front & Back Linings with French Seam 14-16 $0.60
ESTIMATED COST SUBTOTAL: $5.90
18. ESTIMATED CONSTRUCTION CALLOUTS - DRESS
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, February 27, 2012
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 - 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
LOCATION/DESCRIPTION CONSTRUCTION/SEAM FINISH/TOP STITCH SPI EST. COST SKETCH
Set Lining Set Lining to Zipper 14-16 $1.20
CB Seam Attach Hook & Eye Above Zipper 14-16 $0.10
Bra Strap Keeper Attach to Inside Shoulder $0.20
Lining Sweep Make ½" Clean Finish Hem 14-16 $0.60
ESTIMATED COST SUBTOTAL: $2.10
LOCATION/DESCRIPTION CONSTRUCTION/SEAM FINISH/TOP STITCH SPI EST. COST SKETCH
Attach Hem Tape 14-16 $1.00
Shell Sweep
Make 1 ½" Blind Hem 3-4 $1.00
Attach Lining to Shell at Sideseam with Thread
Lining at Sideseam $0.20
Chainstitch
ESTIMATED COST SUBTOTAL: $2.20
19. FIRST COST SHEET
SEASON: Spring 2013 DATE: Monday, February 06, 2012
GROUP NAME: Wine and Roses STYLE #: 1242012
SIZE CLASSIFICATION / RANGE: Missy / 0 - 12 TECHNICAL DESIGNER: Kara Pelletier
FABRIC NAME: Poplin PRODUCT CATEGORY: Dresses
FIBER CONTENT: 100% Cotton BRAND / LABEL: J. Crew
STYLE DESCRIPTION: Sleeveless dress with fitted bodice and box pleated A-line skirt
FABRICS YARDS UNIT PRICE $ AMOUNT SKETCH
100% Cotton Poplin 1.5 $7.75 $11.63
1005 Rayon Satin Lining 2 $3.50 $7.00
Interfacing 0.25 $0.90 $0.23
TOTAL FABRICS $18.85
PERCENT TO TOTAL COST 42.05%
TRIMS YDS / QTY UNIT PRICE $ AMOUNT
Grosgrain Ribbon 1 $0.05 $0.05
Invisible Zipper 1 $0.88 $0.88
Brand Label 1 $0.10 $0.10
Care/Content Label 1 $0.08 $0.08
Size Label 1 $0.08 $0.08
Country of Origin Label 1 $0.05 $0.05
Thread 210 $0.00075 $0.16
Hook & Eye 1 $0.08 $0.08
TOTAL TRIMS $1.48
PERCENT TO TOTAL COST 3.30%
CMT / LABOR $ AMOUNT
Grading $0.20
Marking $0.30
Cutting $1.20
Make Charges (Labor) $22.45
TOTAL CMT/ LABOR $24.15
PERCENT TO TOTAL COST 53.87%
PACKING MATERIALS YDS / QTY UNIT PRICE $ AMOUNT
Polybag $0.10
Hanger $0.25
TOTAL COSTS $44.83 WHOLESALE PRICE N/A
TOTAL PACKING MATERIALS $0.35 WHOLESALE MARKUP N/A RETAIL MARKUP 70.0%
PERCENT TO TOTAL COST 0.78% WHOLESALE MARGIN N/A ESTIMATED RETAIL PRICE $149.43
