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From Grass to Greens: Raised
Beds and In-Ground Planting




      Carl E. Motsenbocker, PhD
         LSU / LSU AgCenter
    cmotsenbocker@agcenter.lsu.edu
Top Ten Reasons to Garden
• Safe, healthy food (avoid pesticides, contaminated food,
  preservatives and additives)
• Exercise (1 hr. burns 300 calories for women and 400 calories
  for men)
• Add beauty
• Learn
• Make money (business selling flowers or food at farmers’
  market, urban market gardens, or job in landscaping/nursery)
• Meet people (garden clubs, community gardens)
• Be creative – artistry….
• To win (4H, county livestock/gardening competitions;
  gardening club best in show)
• Emotional needs and spiritual connection
• Memories….
Environmental Working Group
            Pesticide contamination for 53 popular
            fruits and vegetables based on an
            analysis of 60,700 samples taken by
            the USDA (2000 to 2010)
            Most tested produce after it had been
            rinsed or peeled.


                    Grow:
                    celery, strawberries,
                    spinach, grapes, bell
                    peppers, Irish
                    potatoes, blueberries,
                    lettuce, kale and
                    collard greens
“The health benefits of a
diet rich in fruits and
vegetables outweigh the
risks of pesticide
exposure. Eating
conventionally grown
produce is far better than
skipping fruits and
vegetables.”
            EWG
Vegetables
Herbs
Fruits
Flowers
Topics for Today -a recipe for homegrown
              vegetables….
Key Ingredients
•Garden Site –
  – Sunlight, Water, Weed-free soil, Compost /
    OM, Labor, Planning
•Garden Bed Systems – traditional vs. raised
•Bed Materials
•Mulching
•Weed Management
• Finding the Right Site
• Sunlight: 6-8 hours of sunlight a day.
   – Take note of the location of the sun throughout day by
     visiting the garden area at different times during the
     day (different seasons….)
   – Vegetables perform best when they receive full sun all
     day long.
Garden Site
– Few vegetables tolerate a little shade.
– When possible, plant your garden where it will
  receive southern or southeastern exposure. It will
  warm up faster in the spring and receive the
  maximum amount of sunlight throughout the
  growing season.
                                        Summer vs. winter
– Issues of shade from fencing?         planting and shade / heat
Garden Site

• Trees
  – Trees are one of the garden’s adversaries…..
  – Trees not only shade the plants, but their roots
    invade the beds, competing for valuable nutrients
    and moisture.
Garden Site

• Local conditions
  – Conditions in the south can change from swamplike
    to desert like in a matter of weeks.
  – A garden location should drain well and
    simultaneously be able to hold moisture well.
Vegetables That Tolerate Some Shade

Asparagus      Kale         Spinach

Cabbage       Lettuce     Swiss chard

 Celery       Parsley       Turnips

 Carrots      Radishes
• Finding the Right Site
• Easy water access

• Accessible and visible
   – Should be easy to get to and convenient to visit
   – Should be easy to get resources to garden (soil, tools,
     plants, water etc.
Watering
A crop needs on average one inch of rain per
week.
Watering
• ♦Newly-planted seeds need to be watered daily until they
  sprout. After establishment, watering can be 2 to 3 x per week
  depending on season.
• Watering deeply but less frequently helps plants develop a
  stronger root structure by encouraging them to grow downward
  into the soil, instead of spreading out just below the surface.
• Water in the am or evening to prevent rapid evaporation. With
  watering in the morning the foliage dries decreasing potential
  for disease.
• Plants take up water through the tips of their roots so water
  around the plant.
• Water collection and
  distribution.
Flood or
overhead
sprinkler

       Trickle
       irrigation
• Garden Site

Fertile Soil
        • Working the soil.
        • Adding the proper amendments.
        • Using in-ground or raised garden beds.




Consider the history of site – industry?
Heavy metal contamination?
Soil Management

• Basis of farm and garden productivity and therefore
  the cornerstone of any ecologically sound approach
  to farming/gardening.




                    Soils!!!
Most soils are low
in organic matter
Understanding the soil system
• Soil fertility - soil capacity to nurture healthy plants.
  Organic / sustainable agriculture aims to protect the soil’s
  ability to regenerate nutrients lost when crops are
  harvested.

• Regeneration depends on diversity, health, and vitality of
  the organisms that live, grow, reproduce and die in the
  soil.

• Activities of soil microbes makes available the basic raw
  materials needed by plants at the right time and in the right
  form and amount.

• The organisms involved: bacteria, fungi, actinomycetes,
  algae, protozoans, nematodes, mites, earthworms.
• Best: soil testing- pH, nutrients. (Send a
  sample to a university or university
  extension service)
• LSU Ag Center Cooperative Extension
  Service
Feeding the soil
• Adding minerals and organic matter can turn an
  infertile soil into a fertile soil in a cumulative
  process.
• Two sources of nutrients for the soil - organic
  matter (remains of previously living organisms)
  and finely ground rock particles that is the mineral
  fraction of the soil.
• Nutrients are made available through biological
  and chemical processes.
Organic matter

• Vegetables require the richest soils of all farm crops
  for best quality and growth.
• Organic matter is key to the soil - foundation for the
  microbiological life of the soil.
Compost

• Well made compost has been shown to have plant
  growing benefits such as nutrients as well as
  “suppression of plant diseases and increasing plant
  resistance to stress”.
GARDEN SITE
Other considerations:

•Check the slope of your garden to ensure equal drainage (areas
where water collects…)
•Add pathways to maintain your garden. MULCHES
•Protect against animals - deer, squirrels, dogs, and rabbits that
could eat or spoil crops. Humans?
•Watch out for noxious plants such as poison ivy and weeds
such as Bermuda Grass.
•Beware of buried pipes and lines. Before you dig, call to find
out what utility pipes may be buried underground.
Selecting Your Garden Site
• Wind
  – Strong seasonal winds can damage tender plants
    and reduce yields.
  – Shrubs, fences and buildings can be used as
    windbreaks, but care should be taken to avoid
    shading.
Time and Management

• Gardening done well requires time.
• Plan and prepare enough space for the amount
  of time that you can devote to it.
• Remember, a small, well-cared-of garden will
  give you more enjoyment and vegetables than a
  large, poorly cared-for garden.
Planning and observation

• Planning on paper
• What to grow
• Layout and crop spacing
Planning and observation

• Getting good seed
  –   Johnny’s Selected Seed
  –   Shepard’s Garden Seed
  –   Local hardware stores
  –   Walmart
Garden Bed Systems
• Traditional garden rows
  – Based on farm tractors - planted like small farms, the garden
    was plowed with straight rows built to grow the vegetables.
  – Rows are spaced 3 to 6 ft apart
     • which allows for cultivation with a tiller etc and also the
       middles/furrows serve as a walkway.
  – Traditional garden is suited to a large garden, is easy to work
    and is good for vegetables that require lots of space such as
    corn, okra, watermelon, cucumbers etc.
Garden beds vs in-ground planting
Garden Bed Systems
• Raised-bed or box gardening
  – This system has many advantages over the
    traditional garden system.
  – Higher yields per unit area because more space is
    used for growing.
  – It is easier to build up a healthy soil.
  – Helps to increase drainage in problem soils.
  – Less soil compaction because walks are used and not
    furrows.
  – Raised beds warm faster in the spring, drain well
    and can be easily covered to help protect against
    fall/spring freezes or frosts.
Garden Bed Systems
• Raised-bed or box gardening
  – Beds are usually 3 to 4 feet wide with variable
    length.
  – One needs to make sure that there is enough space
    to get in and out of the garden (walks 18 to 30” or
    wider).
• Vertical gardening / trellis systems
   – Many vegetables like tomatoes, pole beans and vine crops grow
     to very large sizes.
   – By using a trellis or cage for support, you can grow those
     vegetables in small spaces.
   – Large fruited vegetables (watermelon, melon) can be grown on
     trellises if the fruit are supported.
Garden Beds
In-ground beds                            Raised beds
 Pros              Cons                   Pros                  Cons

 Low cost          More labor             Tend to look neater More expensive
                   required at start-up   and more contained
 Can maximize      Usually need to        Can bring in good     May have to
 gardening space   amend the soil         quality soil /        replace borders
                                          growing media
                   Need to test soil      Start up labor is     Requires larger
                   and/or know about      easier and faster.    pathways? Less
                   previous activity      Weed control          space is available
                                          easier?               for gardening
                   Weed                   Can create beds of
                   management?            unique shapes/sizes
                                          Easier to work for
                                          children, elderly,
                                          handicapped
Grow Food, Not Lawns (FB)
Garden Layout
• Many vegetables need to be planted at a specific
  time to achieve a successful harvest.
• Planting at the wrong time can reduce yield,
  decrease quality, increase insect and disease
  problems etc.
• It is best to keep in mind the size of a healthy
  mature plant. Planting too close together - yields
  are reduced and plants compete for nutrients and
  light. Must use the optimal spacing for each crop.
When to plant

• The date of harvest depends on the date of
  planting
  – the timespan depends on the effects of:
  – daylength, weather, the aspect of the land, the
    crops grown etc.
  – Early and late planting:
  – Succession and greenhouse planting
     • eg maturity of lettuce is lengthened as planting
       times go from Sept. to Nov.
     • Plant more than one time to have a series of harvests
Crop rotation
• Changing the mix of crop each year on a given
  piece of ground.
• Best if the crops are not related botanically as
  successive crops do not make the same demand
  on soil nutrients as well not having the same
  pests (disease, insect, weed) complex.
Keys to Successful Organic Gardening
• Building the soil
• Using finished compost
• Using mulch materials for weed control
• Using sound horticulture practices
• Biological diversity in the garden
• Encouraging beneficial insects


“Organic Vegetable Gardening” LCES Pub. 2948-A 3/06
Biointensive Gardening
   •   Double-dug, raised beds
   •   Intensive planting
   •   Composting
   •   Companion planting
   •   Whole gardening method

       The Biointensive gardening method is a whole
       system and all the components of the method must
       be used together for the optimum effect.



John Jeavons, 1995, How to Grow More Vegetables/ www.growbiointensive.org
Square Foot Gardening Plant Spacing
• To calculate how many plants per 1 ft square, look
  on the back of the seed packet–totally ignore the
  row spacing, just look at the plant spacing:
   –   12″ apart, plant 1 per square
   –   6″ apart, plant 4 per square
   –   4″ apart, plant 9 per square
   –   3″ apart (or less), plant 16 per square
Green Manure – Cover Crops

• Crop grown due to their benefits to the soil.
   –   Soil organic matter
   –   Help protect against erosion
   –   Retain nutrients
   –   Suppress germination and growth of weeds
   –   Cycle nutrients from the lower soil layers to the upper layer
   –   Legumes - provide N to the following crop
Bed Materials
• Medium – soil(s), organic matter, finished
  compost, ammendments, pH, high C
  materials?
• Bed materials
  –   Non-toxic materials?
  –   Pine
  –   Cedar
  –   Cinder blocks
  –   Treated wood?
Mulching
• Mulching bare ground and around plants is THE
  single most important thing that
  sustainable/organic gardeners do to create low-
  maintenance, healthy gardens.

• Mulch uncovered soil for weed control, water
  retention, and to improve the soil's structure.

"the greatest labor-saving gardening product ever
   invented.“
Benefits of mulches
• Suppress weeds
• Prevents drying out of soil
• Prevents erosion and reduces compaction of soil
• Moderates soil temperature
• Prevents mud splatter on plants and edible portions
• Add nutrients to soil, plus enable the soil to better use soil
  nutrients from any source
• Increases the populations of earthworm and beneficial soil
  microbes.
• Make gardens look well kept and amenable to planting
Types of Mulch
• Compost
  – Very good as soil ammendment, expensive if purchased.
  – Washes away in heavy rains?
  – Weeds love it. Should not come with weeds, wind-blown seeds
    land on it and thrive.
  – Not very good at weed prevention…
• Pine needles
  – often available cheaply, slow to decompose
  – May deplete the soil nitrogen.
  – Make the soil more acidic
Types of Mulch
• Sawdust NR
   – High C:N ratio - drawing nitrogen from soil in the decomposition
     process.

• Cypress mulch NR
   – needed in fragile wetlands.
•
  Bark NR
   – is moderately expensive to expensive, slow to break down and good-
     looking.
   – High C:N ratio – N depletion when worked in the garden bed

• Wood chips or shavings NR
  – Relatively inexpensive (free?), break down very slowly.
  – High C:N ratio – N depletion when worked in the garden bed

• Permanent Garden Paths?
• NR = Not Recommended
Types of Mulch
• Leafmold (chopped and aged leaves)
   – Rarely sold, easy to make, locate locally from municipal governments
     (along with compost and chopped bark/wood?)
   – Nutrient-rich and excellent as mulch or a soil amendment.
• Leaves
   – Not attractive?
   – Shredding first to speed their decomposition and prevent matting.
• Hay
   – Inexpensive and readily available?
   – Not very attractive? May contain weed seeds. Fire ants love it!
• Straw
   – Inexpensive and readily available?
   – Not very attractive? More weed-free than hay.
   – Rob nitrogen from the soil? Generally disappeared in a season.
Cultural Weed Mgt. Strategies
•   Mulch – organic/plastic
•   Mechanical – hoeing/cultivation
•   Crop rotation
•   Flame weeding
•   Cover crops
•   Soil solarization
Cultural Weed Mgt. Strategies (cont.)

•   Use of transplants
•   Clean equipment
•   Avoid weeds in transplants, mulch, manure
•   Prevent weeds from flowering
•   Weed early
•   Crop canopy development
Biological Control of Weeds
• Animals (fish, goats, geese,
  chickens)
• Insects (klamath beetle)
• Pathogens (strangle weed in citrus)
• Corn gluten
LSU Organic Garden Plots
• Raised beds: 5 to 6 feet wide, semi-
  permanent, friable, weed free (?)
• 14 years - organic production methods,
  not certified
• Fertility:
   – green manure cover crops /compost
      in winter
   – weekly applications during fall
      semester class: fish emulsion and/or
      seaweed extract
• Irrigation
   – manual watering, overhead sprinklers
      (trickle?)
Pests at Organic Teaching Plots
• Insects:
      • Physical removal
      • garlic/pepper sprays, Bt, rotenone?
      • Companion plantings, trap crops, crop diversity
      • Beneficials (Lady Beetles, Lacewings)
Topics for Today -a recipe for homegrown
              vegetables….
Key Ingredients
•Garden Site –
  – Sunlight, Water, Weed-free soil, Compost /
    OM, Labor, Planning
•Garden Bed Systems – traditional vs. raised
•Bed Materials
•Mulching
•Weed Management
• Join the Good Food Revolution!!

• Grow your own….
  and know your local farmer…
Comments or Questions?

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From grass to greens final

  • 1. From Grass to Greens: Raised Beds and In-Ground Planting Carl E. Motsenbocker, PhD LSU / LSU AgCenter cmotsenbocker@agcenter.lsu.edu
  • 2. Top Ten Reasons to Garden • Safe, healthy food (avoid pesticides, contaminated food, preservatives and additives) • Exercise (1 hr. burns 300 calories for women and 400 calories for men) • Add beauty • Learn • Make money (business selling flowers or food at farmers’ market, urban market gardens, or job in landscaping/nursery) • Meet people (garden clubs, community gardens) • Be creative – artistry…. • To win (4H, county livestock/gardening competitions; gardening club best in show) • Emotional needs and spiritual connection • Memories….
  • 3.
  • 4. Environmental Working Group Pesticide contamination for 53 popular fruits and vegetables based on an analysis of 60,700 samples taken by the USDA (2000 to 2010) Most tested produce after it had been rinsed or peeled. Grow: celery, strawberries, spinach, grapes, bell peppers, Irish potatoes, blueberries, lettuce, kale and collard greens
  • 5. “The health benefits of a diet rich in fruits and vegetables outweigh the risks of pesticide exposure. Eating conventionally grown produce is far better than skipping fruits and vegetables.” EWG
  • 7. Topics for Today -a recipe for homegrown vegetables…. Key Ingredients •Garden Site – – Sunlight, Water, Weed-free soil, Compost / OM, Labor, Planning •Garden Bed Systems – traditional vs. raised •Bed Materials •Mulching •Weed Management
  • 8. • Finding the Right Site • Sunlight: 6-8 hours of sunlight a day. – Take note of the location of the sun throughout day by visiting the garden area at different times during the day (different seasons….) – Vegetables perform best when they receive full sun all day long.
  • 9. Garden Site – Few vegetables tolerate a little shade. – When possible, plant your garden where it will receive southern or southeastern exposure. It will warm up faster in the spring and receive the maximum amount of sunlight throughout the growing season. Summer vs. winter – Issues of shade from fencing? planting and shade / heat
  • 10. Garden Site • Trees – Trees are one of the garden’s adversaries….. – Trees not only shade the plants, but their roots invade the beds, competing for valuable nutrients and moisture.
  • 11. Garden Site • Local conditions – Conditions in the south can change from swamplike to desert like in a matter of weeks. – A garden location should drain well and simultaneously be able to hold moisture well.
  • 12. Vegetables That Tolerate Some Shade Asparagus Kale Spinach Cabbage Lettuce Swiss chard Celery Parsley Turnips Carrots Radishes
  • 13. • Finding the Right Site • Easy water access • Accessible and visible – Should be easy to get to and convenient to visit – Should be easy to get resources to garden (soil, tools, plants, water etc.
  • 14. Watering A crop needs on average one inch of rain per week.
  • 15. Watering • ♦Newly-planted seeds need to be watered daily until they sprout. After establishment, watering can be 2 to 3 x per week depending on season. • Watering deeply but less frequently helps plants develop a stronger root structure by encouraging them to grow downward into the soil, instead of spreading out just below the surface. • Water in the am or evening to prevent rapid evaporation. With watering in the morning the foliage dries decreasing potential for disease. • Plants take up water through the tips of their roots so water around the plant.
  • 16. • Water collection and distribution.
  • 17. Flood or overhead sprinkler Trickle irrigation
  • 18.
  • 19.
  • 20. • Garden Site Fertile Soil • Working the soil. • Adding the proper amendments. • Using in-ground or raised garden beds. Consider the history of site – industry? Heavy metal contamination?
  • 21.
  • 22. Soil Management • Basis of farm and garden productivity and therefore the cornerstone of any ecologically sound approach to farming/gardening. Soils!!!
  • 23. Most soils are low in organic matter
  • 24. Understanding the soil system • Soil fertility - soil capacity to nurture healthy plants. Organic / sustainable agriculture aims to protect the soil’s ability to regenerate nutrients lost when crops are harvested. • Regeneration depends on diversity, health, and vitality of the organisms that live, grow, reproduce and die in the soil. • Activities of soil microbes makes available the basic raw materials needed by plants at the right time and in the right form and amount. • The organisms involved: bacteria, fungi, actinomycetes, algae, protozoans, nematodes, mites, earthworms.
  • 25.
  • 26. • Best: soil testing- pH, nutrients. (Send a sample to a university or university extension service) • LSU Ag Center Cooperative Extension Service
  • 27.
  • 28. Feeding the soil • Adding minerals and organic matter can turn an infertile soil into a fertile soil in a cumulative process. • Two sources of nutrients for the soil - organic matter (remains of previously living organisms) and finely ground rock particles that is the mineral fraction of the soil. • Nutrients are made available through biological and chemical processes.
  • 29. Organic matter • Vegetables require the richest soils of all farm crops for best quality and growth. • Organic matter is key to the soil - foundation for the microbiological life of the soil.
  • 30. Compost • Well made compost has been shown to have plant growing benefits such as nutrients as well as “suppression of plant diseases and increasing plant resistance to stress”.
  • 31. GARDEN SITE Other considerations: •Check the slope of your garden to ensure equal drainage (areas where water collects…) •Add pathways to maintain your garden. MULCHES •Protect against animals - deer, squirrels, dogs, and rabbits that could eat or spoil crops. Humans? •Watch out for noxious plants such as poison ivy and weeds such as Bermuda Grass. •Beware of buried pipes and lines. Before you dig, call to find out what utility pipes may be buried underground.
  • 32. Selecting Your Garden Site • Wind – Strong seasonal winds can damage tender plants and reduce yields. – Shrubs, fences and buildings can be used as windbreaks, but care should be taken to avoid shading.
  • 33. Time and Management • Gardening done well requires time. • Plan and prepare enough space for the amount of time that you can devote to it. • Remember, a small, well-cared-of garden will give you more enjoyment and vegetables than a large, poorly cared-for garden.
  • 34. Planning and observation • Planning on paper • What to grow • Layout and crop spacing
  • 35. Planning and observation • Getting good seed – Johnny’s Selected Seed – Shepard’s Garden Seed – Local hardware stores – Walmart
  • 36. Garden Bed Systems • Traditional garden rows – Based on farm tractors - planted like small farms, the garden was plowed with straight rows built to grow the vegetables. – Rows are spaced 3 to 6 ft apart • which allows for cultivation with a tiller etc and also the middles/furrows serve as a walkway. – Traditional garden is suited to a large garden, is easy to work and is good for vegetables that require lots of space such as corn, okra, watermelon, cucumbers etc.
  • 37.
  • 38. Garden beds vs in-ground planting
  • 39. Garden Bed Systems • Raised-bed or box gardening – This system has many advantages over the traditional garden system. – Higher yields per unit area because more space is used for growing. – It is easier to build up a healthy soil. – Helps to increase drainage in problem soils. – Less soil compaction because walks are used and not furrows. – Raised beds warm faster in the spring, drain well and can be easily covered to help protect against fall/spring freezes or frosts.
  • 40. Garden Bed Systems • Raised-bed or box gardening – Beds are usually 3 to 4 feet wide with variable length. – One needs to make sure that there is enough space to get in and out of the garden (walks 18 to 30” or wider).
  • 41. • Vertical gardening / trellis systems – Many vegetables like tomatoes, pole beans and vine crops grow to very large sizes. – By using a trellis or cage for support, you can grow those vegetables in small spaces. – Large fruited vegetables (watermelon, melon) can be grown on trellises if the fruit are supported.
  • 42. Garden Beds In-ground beds Raised beds Pros Cons Pros Cons Low cost More labor Tend to look neater More expensive required at start-up and more contained Can maximize Usually need to Can bring in good May have to gardening space amend the soil quality soil / replace borders growing media Need to test soil Start up labor is Requires larger and/or know about easier and faster. pathways? Less previous activity Weed control space is available easier? for gardening Weed Can create beds of management? unique shapes/sizes Easier to work for children, elderly, handicapped
  • 43.
  • 44. Grow Food, Not Lawns (FB)
  • 45.
  • 46.
  • 47.
  • 48.
  • 49.
  • 50. Garden Layout • Many vegetables need to be planted at a specific time to achieve a successful harvest. • Planting at the wrong time can reduce yield, decrease quality, increase insect and disease problems etc. • It is best to keep in mind the size of a healthy mature plant. Planting too close together - yields are reduced and plants compete for nutrients and light. Must use the optimal spacing for each crop.
  • 51. When to plant • The date of harvest depends on the date of planting – the timespan depends on the effects of: – daylength, weather, the aspect of the land, the crops grown etc. – Early and late planting: – Succession and greenhouse planting • eg maturity of lettuce is lengthened as planting times go from Sept. to Nov. • Plant more than one time to have a series of harvests
  • 52. Crop rotation • Changing the mix of crop each year on a given piece of ground. • Best if the crops are not related botanically as successive crops do not make the same demand on soil nutrients as well not having the same pests (disease, insect, weed) complex.
  • 53. Keys to Successful Organic Gardening • Building the soil • Using finished compost • Using mulch materials for weed control • Using sound horticulture practices • Biological diversity in the garden • Encouraging beneficial insects “Organic Vegetable Gardening” LCES Pub. 2948-A 3/06
  • 54. Biointensive Gardening • Double-dug, raised beds • Intensive planting • Composting • Companion planting • Whole gardening method The Biointensive gardening method is a whole system and all the components of the method must be used together for the optimum effect. John Jeavons, 1995, How to Grow More Vegetables/ www.growbiointensive.org
  • 55. Square Foot Gardening Plant Spacing • To calculate how many plants per 1 ft square, look on the back of the seed packet–totally ignore the row spacing, just look at the plant spacing: – 12″ apart, plant 1 per square – 6″ apart, plant 4 per square – 4″ apart, plant 9 per square – 3″ apart (or less), plant 16 per square
  • 56. Green Manure – Cover Crops • Crop grown due to their benefits to the soil. – Soil organic matter – Help protect against erosion – Retain nutrients – Suppress germination and growth of weeds – Cycle nutrients from the lower soil layers to the upper layer – Legumes - provide N to the following crop
  • 57. Bed Materials • Medium – soil(s), organic matter, finished compost, ammendments, pH, high C materials? • Bed materials – Non-toxic materials? – Pine – Cedar – Cinder blocks – Treated wood?
  • 58.
  • 59. Mulching • Mulching bare ground and around plants is THE single most important thing that sustainable/organic gardeners do to create low- maintenance, healthy gardens. • Mulch uncovered soil for weed control, water retention, and to improve the soil's structure. "the greatest labor-saving gardening product ever invented.“
  • 60. Benefits of mulches • Suppress weeds • Prevents drying out of soil • Prevents erosion and reduces compaction of soil • Moderates soil temperature • Prevents mud splatter on plants and edible portions • Add nutrients to soil, plus enable the soil to better use soil nutrients from any source • Increases the populations of earthworm and beneficial soil microbes. • Make gardens look well kept and amenable to planting
  • 61. Types of Mulch • Compost – Very good as soil ammendment, expensive if purchased. – Washes away in heavy rains? – Weeds love it. Should not come with weeds, wind-blown seeds land on it and thrive. – Not very good at weed prevention… • Pine needles – often available cheaply, slow to decompose – May deplete the soil nitrogen. – Make the soil more acidic
  • 62. Types of Mulch • Sawdust NR – High C:N ratio - drawing nitrogen from soil in the decomposition process. • Cypress mulch NR – needed in fragile wetlands. • Bark NR – is moderately expensive to expensive, slow to break down and good- looking. – High C:N ratio – N depletion when worked in the garden bed • Wood chips or shavings NR – Relatively inexpensive (free?), break down very slowly. – High C:N ratio – N depletion when worked in the garden bed • Permanent Garden Paths? • NR = Not Recommended
  • 63. Types of Mulch • Leafmold (chopped and aged leaves) – Rarely sold, easy to make, locate locally from municipal governments (along with compost and chopped bark/wood?) – Nutrient-rich and excellent as mulch or a soil amendment. • Leaves – Not attractive? – Shredding first to speed their decomposition and prevent matting. • Hay – Inexpensive and readily available? – Not very attractive? May contain weed seeds. Fire ants love it! • Straw – Inexpensive and readily available? – Not very attractive? More weed-free than hay. – Rob nitrogen from the soil? Generally disappeared in a season.
  • 64. Cultural Weed Mgt. Strategies • Mulch – organic/plastic • Mechanical – hoeing/cultivation • Crop rotation • Flame weeding • Cover crops • Soil solarization
  • 65. Cultural Weed Mgt. Strategies (cont.) • Use of transplants • Clean equipment • Avoid weeds in transplants, mulch, manure • Prevent weeds from flowering • Weed early • Crop canopy development
  • 66. Biological Control of Weeds • Animals (fish, goats, geese, chickens) • Insects (klamath beetle) • Pathogens (strangle weed in citrus) • Corn gluten
  • 67. LSU Organic Garden Plots • Raised beds: 5 to 6 feet wide, semi- permanent, friable, weed free (?) • 14 years - organic production methods, not certified • Fertility: – green manure cover crops /compost in winter – weekly applications during fall semester class: fish emulsion and/or seaweed extract • Irrigation – manual watering, overhead sprinklers (trickle?)
  • 68. Pests at Organic Teaching Plots • Insects: • Physical removal • garlic/pepper sprays, Bt, rotenone? • Companion plantings, trap crops, crop diversity • Beneficials (Lady Beetles, Lacewings)
  • 69. Topics for Today -a recipe for homegrown vegetables…. Key Ingredients •Garden Site – – Sunlight, Water, Weed-free soil, Compost / OM, Labor, Planning •Garden Bed Systems – traditional vs. raised •Bed Materials •Mulching •Weed Management
  • 70. • Join the Good Food Revolution!! • Grow your own…. and know your local farmer…
  • 71.