1. Fall 2008 Newsletter
Gold Butte: In the News In recent months Gold Butte has been prominently featured
in local and national news as we’ve ratcheted up efforts to
Because the Time is NOW protect the area. Opposition to these efforts is limited to local
communities who believe there is too much federal interference
and that protection can happen without a National Conservation
Area and wilderness. We believe that the financial resources to
manage Gold Butte are essential to providing interpretive signage,
educational materials and a law enforcement presence that can
stop the destruction.
by John Wallin
We are encouraged by what we learned from a poll of Clark County
Gold Butte is an incredible landscape of biological and geological residents that the Nevada Wilderness Coalition and Friends of
wonder. Located due south of Mesquite in northeastern Clark Gold Butte commissioned last May. The results confirmed what
County, the area represents one of southern Nevada’s most you already know--Gold Butte is a top priority for protection
threatened habitats. Fire, the spread of invasive weeds, cultural among Clark County residents. Some key findings include:
vandalism and irresponsible off-road vehicle use have conspired • 66% of Clark County residents favor protecting
in the last decade to severely deteriorate this special landscape. additional lands as wilderness.
• 89% agree that “given the current rate of population
Members of the Nevada Wilderness Project and our coalition growth and development in southern Nevada it is important that
partners will remember that we proposed roughly 350,000 acres we do everything we can to
for wilderness protection in the 2002 Clark County public lands protect our natural, cultural
bill. That bill became law in October 2002, with a mere 28,000 and archeological resources.”
acres designated as wilderness. While the total area protected • 65% agree that
was a disappointment to conservationists and archaeology buffs, “irresponsible off-road vehicle
there emerged a sense—within the BLM, Park Service and among use is a major problem in
citizens throughout Nevada—that Gold Butte would require southern Nevada and is
more protection in the not too distant future. damaging important natural
resources and important
The “not too distant future” is here. St. George and Mesquite wildlife habitat.”
have boomed, and the unfettered growth of Las Vegas has
driven more recreationists into Gold Butte than ever before. This The rest of this newsletter is
is inevitable, and even good. The more people who see the area devoted to the splendors of
and understand what’s happening, the better. Gold Butte—its history, hiking
opportunities and ecological
But Gold Butte does not have the management direction and wonders. Read on and
funding mechanisms that accompany a National Conservation enjoy. And please take time
Area (NCA) with wilderness, and the BLM is simply overwhelmed to visit our website at www.
by on-the-ground conditions. They daily fight a losing battle with wildnevada.org. You can
the off-roaders and archaeo-looters who pillage the landscape in read more about the Gold
the absence of strong management and law enforcement. Butte proposal submitted
to Nevada’s Congressional
This year, conditions have worsened so dramatically that the delegation, browse through
Nevada Wilderness Coalition (NWP, Campaign for America’s the recent media coverage of
Wilderness, The Wilderness Society, Friends of Nevada Wilderness, Gold Butte and find contact
Sierra Club and Red Rock Audubon Society) has teamed up with information for members of
Mesquite-based stewardship group Friends of Gold Butte to Congress. Contact them and
propose a National Conservation Area with wilderness. We have tell them that Gold Butte
submitted a proposal to the Congressional delegation, and we deserves protection. The time
have hopes that we can still see protection pass in Congress this is now. John Wallin is NWP’s
year. Director.
2. Human History in Gold Butte by Nancy Hall
Imagine surviving off the land of the harsh Mojave Desert – 75, Gold Butte is named for a mining town established in the early
150 or even 2,000 years ago. A visit to Gold Butte can take 1900s. It was once a bustling tent city of 1,000 people, complete
you back to these eras and leave you with an unforgettable with mail delivery three times a week. Sure enough, the area
appreciation of how human beings have interacted with this went bust, and Gold Butte was reduced to housing the legends
astounding landscape. A diversity of artifacts, sandstone etchings of a few colorful characters such as Bill Garrett, Art Coleman and
and abandoned home sites are scattered across the Gold Butte “Crazy Eddie” Bounsall. Left behind at the old town site are the
landscape, intermixed with remnants left by pioneers as well as platforms of a few tents, old mining equipment and colorful local
modern people. stories.
The Gold Butte complex is considered a Traditional Lifeway by The opportunity to step back in the past—into many pasts—is an
the Moapa Band of Paiutes and recognized by the Bureau of Land incredible gift. Gold Butte belongs to all Americans, and every
Management for its special cultural resources. Archaeologists visitor must take responsibility for ensuring it is left intact for coming
speculate that Gold Butte contains some 2,000 cultural sites. generations. Always follow Leave No Trace practices; for more
Cross-country hikes, like those described in the article on the next information on desert etiquette, visit www.friendsofgoldbutte.org.
page over, easily lead to such sites. Nancy Hall is NWP’s Gold Butte Organizer.
For example, while hiking you’ll come across rock shelters used
long ago, yet they look just recently abandoned. Surrounding Join Friends of Gold Butte for a presentation of the
these habitation sites, you may see a garbage pile known as a area’s mining history, with local historian John Lear.
midden. Middens are filled with chips from stone tool making, The presentation is Tue., Oct. 21, 7 pm, (6-7 pm social hour)
ash from fires, pottery and bone. Close by, you may find a large at the Falcon Ridge Realty Showcase, Mesquite; with a follow-
ring of white rock surrounding an indentation in the earth. These up field trip to Gold Butte on Oct. 25. For more information,
are roasting pits, or agave ovens, used to cook the base of the contact Nancy Hall at friendsofgoldbutte@gmail.org, or
carbohydrate-rich agave plant and other staple foods. Smooth 702-346-3723.
grinding stones, a metate, and a hand tool, the mano, may also
be found if the site has been left undisturbed by earlier visitors.
Many historic sites are found on top of prehistoric sites. Whitney
Pockets--an area of beautiful sandstone formations--is the most
popular picnicking and camping spot in Gold Butte. Within the
sandstone formations sits a dam built by the Civilian Conservation
Corps during the depression era. The dam formed a “pocket” to
contain water for cattle and a water line runs to a nearby stone
trough. There are also storage areas built into the sandstone alcoves.
However, if you look closely, you’ll also see much earlier rock
shelters, petroglyphs, middens and roasting pits left by the Native
Americans who lived there long before European settlement.
Over the summer, CBS Channel 8’s news show Las Vegas Now reported on
the problem of ancient sites—like those at Gold Butte--being destroyed
by vandals. The story mentioned destruction of petroglyphs by people
defacing the rock walls and damage caused by people on off-road ve-
hicles who either intentionally or accidently drive over burial sites. The
story also provided information for people wanting to help by becoming
site stewards for important sites. To volunteer, contact the Nevada Histori-
cal Preservation Office at 702-895-4862. You can watch the news story on
our blog: http://weethump.wordpress.com/
3. Gold Butte at Dawn by Mackenzie Banta
G rowing up a third-generation Nevadan on my family’s My initial love and respect for the region of Gold Butte has only
ranch in northwest Nevada, I never knew that a place like grown as I have visited the region with others. It is a joy to see
Gold Butte even existed in my home state. I was fortunate the area through the lens of new visitors who I bring out there.
enough to discover the area -- in southern Nevada outside I’ve heard their sharp intake of breath as they view the plants and
of Mesquite -- over the last few years through my work with petroglyphs for the first time, or find a particular bird or lizard on
NWP. I have escorted volunteers and supporters to the area the rocks. Growing up in Nevada, I understand how it takes time
to explore and camp. for people to appreciate the beauty of the state; it does not take
folks long to fall in love with Gold Butte.
My first visit to Gold Butte was in the dark of night. We
arrived late after driving nine hours from Reno, and I pitched The Nevada Wilderness Project staff knows how important it is
my tent as quickly as I could as a desert storm descended to introduce spectacular parts of the state to people, what we
on the area. The next morning is one I won’t forget. I awoke call “faces to places.” By experiencing the region, others can
at dawn, poked my head out of the tent and smelled the also understand why the area is worthy of protection. Future
scent of recent rain on the dry Mojave landscape. I generations of Nevadans deserve to make the same wonderful
looked out to see the discoveries at Gold Butte as we have. Mackenzie Banta is NWP’s
undulating lines and Development Director.
wonderful colors of
the rock formations
at Whitney Pockets,
colors I knew from
my childhood
Crayola box
of crayons:
melon,
salmon,
goldenrod,
carnation pink
and burnt sienna. I
was immediately struck
by the pure beauty of the
area – mysterious pocketed
rock outcroppings, Joshua
trees that are larger
than life even though
they grow just one-half Please help us speak up for Gold Butte by calling
inch a year, mesquite or writing to Nevada’s Congressional Delegation and
trees, an abundance of telling them that you want to see Gold Butte protected.
wildflowers and the petroglyphs Another powerful voice for protection is writing a letter to
– ah, the array of ancient carvings by the editor of your local newspaper describing your wish to
the people who had walked the same protect this magnificent area.
area thousands of years before me. It Learn more on our website: www.wildnevada.org
is such a splendid feeling to be walking
around and discover Gold Butte’s carvings Congressman John Porter Senator Reid
like children discovering eggs at Easter. 2470 St. Rose Pkwy, Ste 204, 333 Las Vegas Blvd South, Ste 8016,
Henderson, NV 89074 (702)387-4941 Las Vegas, NV 89101 (702)388-5020
Congresswoman Berkley Senator Ensign
2340 Paseo del Prado, Ste D-106, 333 Las Vegas Blvd South, Ste 8203,
Las Vegas, NV 89102 (702)220-9823 Las Vegas, NV 89101 (702)388-6605
Congressman Heller
600 Las Vegas Blvd, Ste 680,
Las Vegas, NV 89101 (702)255-1651
4. Gila Monsters: Giants of Gold Butte by John Tull
In Gold Butte, an area comprised of approximately 500,000 acres in a single sitting. They are known for their unusual posturing
in extreme southeastern Nevada, at least 17 species of lizards while drinking; they will lap water for a few moments then lift
can be found living in the region’s varied landscape. One of the their head and shoulders quite high in an upward pointing
most fascinating lizards there—or anywhere in the world—is the position for another moment before returning to a prone position
Gila monster. for drinking.
The Gila monster (Heloderma suspectum) is the largest lizard in The Gila monster is listed as “Near Threatened” by the International
the U.S., weighing up to four pounds and reaching 22 inches in Union for Conservation of Nature. This status is due to likely
length. It is one of only two venomous lizards in the world, and significant decline for the species because of habitat loss
its bite can prove fatal to humans. The other, a close relative throughout much of its range. The population and building boom
called the beaded lizard, is found in Mexico. In Nevada, Gila in the desert southwest has had huge negative impacts on the Gila
monsters are found only in the extreme southern part of the state, monster, to the point that conservation efforts are underway to
and Gold Butte is an area with exceptional habitat where this help successfully relocate animals that are considered nuisance
animal prospers. wildlife in urban areas, such as Phoenix, AZ.
This lizard is visually stunning and quite unusual. Surprisingly, The strange and incredible Gila monster is one of the many unique
their reddish-orange blotchy pattern on a black background and wonderful animals and plants to be found in the Gold Butte
makes them well camouflaged against the gorgeous red rock region. Unfortunately, the Gila monster’s existence is under threat
outcroppings scattered throughout the Gold Butte region. In fact, from a lack of public lands oversight in the Gold Butte area, along
you might walk right by one among the red sands and rocks of with all the other plants, wildlife, historical, and cultural resources
the area, especially if it remains stationary. that make this place so special. Gold Butte desperately needs,
and deserves, stronger conservation protection than it currently
If you were looking for a Gila monster in Gold Butte, you would has so things like Gila monsters will be there for people to enjoy
want to concentrate your search during the spring or when the in perpetuity. Conservation of Gold Butte will bring conservation
summer monsoon rains arrive. In the hottest months, they tend to the Gila monster. John Tull is NWP’s Conservation Director
to be active at night, which makes them much harder to see.
Gila monsters take advantage of spring and monsoonal
showers that leave them with plenty of available water.
Spring is also when these lizards mate and do the
majority of their feeding for the year. As carnivores, Gila
monsters are adept at finding bird and rodent nests, and
they feed on eggs, newly hatched birds or newborn
rodents. They have been known to feed on newborn
cottontails, reportedly eating four of them in one sitting.
Because these food resources in the Gold Butte region
come during a brief pulse in the year, Gila monsters have
evolved to thrive by exerting the majority of their efforts
toward survival during this time.
Another interesting adaptation of this lizard is its ability
to survive long periods with no food, and it does this
by storing surplus fat in its tail. During the colder winter
months when feeding opportunities are scarce, the Gila
monster will draw on this fat storage to provide energy
for survival. A healthy Gila monster is one with a pudgy
tail, and the volume of its tail is a good measure of the
animal’s overall condition.
In Gold Butte, you might expect to find a Gila monster in
any of the beautifully colored rock areas, although they
also wander extensively within about a 100-acre “home
range.” After rains, they may be found in drainages or near
tenajas–water holes found in rock outcrops and canyons
throughout Gold Butte–where they will sit for minutes at a
time drinking as much as 15 percent of their body weight
5. Explore Gold Butte on Your Own Two Feet by Nick Dobric
The best way to fully experience the marvels of Gold Butte is on foot. The area’s quiet valleys, rich cultural resources and
high peaks all offer outstanding wilderness experiences. Below is a sampling of hiking in Gold Butte – descriptions of three
hikes we hope will inspire you to get out there and see for yourself why Gold Butte is worth protecting. The area has no
facilities for visitors, so come prepared. The weather is similar to that of Mesquite or Las Vegas, but can vary depending on
elevation.
Falling Man Site ~ Easy Hike
Brace yourself for awe. When people say, “Gold Butte
is rich in cultural resources,” the Falling Man site makes
this sentence a drastic understatement. Paths lead you
up and over sandstone formations that seem to be
from another world. Trails are scattered throughout
the area but there is no one right route. Let curios-
ity be your guide and you’ll discover Native American
rock art, or petroglyphs, around every corner. Follow
“Leave No Trace” rules and do not touch the petro-
glyphs; oils from your hands will damage the art that
has existed for thousands of years. (Another option
for an easy hike is to explore the historic mining town
site of Gold Butte.)
Paradise Valley ~ Moderate Hike
Simply put, Paradise Valley lives up to its name. While
hiking in the dry wash, you’ll see vibrantly colored
limestone and sandstone formations, spring wildflow-
ers and -- since this is paradise -- a vivid blue ski with
hawks soaring overhead. The beautiful wildflowers
are today’s silver lining to the 2005 Tramp Wildfire that
burned part of the valley. Much of the ground is cov-
ered by a living crust known as cryptobiotic soil, and
it is important to stay in the dry washes, ridges and
existing trails to keep this sensitive crust intact. You can
leave another vehicle or bike at one end of the trail to
make this a seven-mile, one-way hike. Or for a longer
day, make a loop out of it by climbing up and back on
Tramp Ridge. (Another moderate hike option is Lime
Canyon.)
Virgin Peak ~ Hard Hike
For more information and detailed
Gold Butte’s most viewed and impressive forma- directions, contact Nick Dobric,
tions are the Virgin Mountains. You can summit Virgin NWP’s Southern Nevada Outreach
Peak at 8,000 feet by hiking five miles one way on the Director, at 702-369-1871 or
southeast ridge. You’ll gain 3,500 feet, enter the re- nick.dobric@wildnevada.org.
freshing mountain environment and, while huffing for Check the calendar on our website,
oxygen on the way up, see a change in vegetation. At www.wildnevada.org to learn about
the peak, enjoy the panoramic view of the surround- opportunities to go on free guided
ing landscapes. And if you’re game for an adventure, hikes, or read about past trips at our
look for a secret aspen grove on the northeast side of blog, www.weethump.wordpress.com
the mountain. (For another summit option, check out
Billy Goat Peak.)
6. Please Join Us
The Nevada Wilderness I would like to make a contribution of (please check one):
• $35
Project is committed • $50 Name
• $100 Address
to saving spectacular, • $250
• $500
rugged and imperiled • Other:
City
Please make checks payable to: Nevada Wilderness Project
public lands in Nevada as State
Send your contribution and information to:
Zip
permanent wilderness, Nevada Wilderness Project
8550 White Fir Street E-mail
Reno, NV 89523
the strongest protection Phone
Or you may donate securely online at www.wildnevada.org
possible. Thank you.
The 2009 Wild Men of Wild Nevada calendar is here!
12 months, 12 wilderness areas, 12 wild men.
Need we say more? You can buy the calendar for $20 on our
website at www.wildnevada.org.
Proceeds benefit NWP.
Contact Us
NEVADA WILDERNESS PROJECT
www.wildnevada.org
Reno Office: Las Vegas Office:
8550 White Fir Street 4220 S. Maryland Pkwy., Ste. 213-A
Reno, NV 89523 Las Vegas, NV 89119
Tel: 775.746.7850 Tel: 702.369.1871