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march, april, may 2011- N°1




all you waNted to kNow about pearls     aNd more




                                      The besT AusTrAliAn peArls
                                      MAruTeA, Queen of peArls
                                      sAgA of The golden peArl

                                           Ecology and pearls on TV
                                                   Stars love pearls
                                           Pearls by Chaumet, Paris
                                                         The quizz
EdiTorial                                                                                                                                     nEwS
      why this Pearl Tribune ?...
                                                                                                                                                    world PrEmiErE in ThE world of SouTh SEa PEarl
                                                                                                                                                    “we are honoured to announce the           from left to right: nicolas martinon (Pu-
                                                                                                                                                    birth of The Pearl Tribune dedicated       blisher of The Pearl Tribune), Jacques
      ...as you have noticed we are inunda-                                                                                                         to Sea water cultured Pearls. under        Christophe Branellec (Brand manager,
                                                                                                                                                    the patronage of three main actors         Jewelmer international), Peter Bracher
      ted with newsletters about diamonds,                                                                       Bee my love                        of our industry: Jewelmer internatio-      (Excecutive director, Paspaley group of
                                                                                                                 new collection by Chaumet          nal, robert wan luxury lTd. & Pas-         companies), didier Brodbeck (Editor in
         colored stones, precious metals and                                                                                                        paley Pearling Company PTY lTd.            Chief of The Pearl Tribune and founder of
                                                                                                                                                    This newsletter will inform and help       dreams magazine), Pierre fallourd (TQm
        hardly anything about pearls, which                                                                                                         commercial market players of retail        manager of Jewelmer international), Phi-

           today, is one of the few expanding                                                                                                       so that they become an intermediary
                                                                                                                                                    for the final client. Be informed by the
                                                                                                                                                                                               lippe Bouasse (design, Production and
                                                                                                                                                                                               Quality robert wan luxury lTd), Jacques
             markets in the jewelry business.                                                                                                       best in order to create more for your      Branellec and manuel Cojuanco (founder
                                                                                                                                                    own valued customers.”                     of Jewelmer international)



      There are three main reasons—among dozens of others—                   the South Sea and Tahitian Pearls, our industry would                                                                A French Touch For Miss chinA
      that sparked the idea for this project. first, pearls never            suffer from the consequences. with your help and the in-                                                             The election of miss China world took place in october with
      had it so good. They are trendy, fun, and very popular                 formation you provide, we are confident this new media                                                               32 beautiful finalists selected from over 1.8 million candidates.
      with women, brands, designers, and the list goes inde-                 outlet will serve as an invaluable tool for improving our                                                            robert wan, number one for Tahitian pearls, immediately accep-
                                                                                                                                                                                                  ted the invitation to sponsor the event, also because the Chinese
      finitely on. in short, the time to profit from this oppor-             visibility on multiple levels. our newsletter is meant to be
                                                                                                                                                                                                  market is the most promising for his business. robert wan asked
      tunity is now; it is our duty. nonetheless, it is surprising           your tribune. i talk to producers, wholesalers, designers,
                                                                                                                                                                                                  his french designer Philippe Bouasse, the proud recipient of the
      that retailers and consumers are not familiar with South               retailers, and the press, and i now invite you to enrich
                                                                                                                                                                                                  Tahitian Pearl Trophy, to create a crown for the winner and tia-
      Sea Pearls in general, and there is a lot of uncertainty               the content of this newsletter by sharing any relevant                                                               ras for the two dauphines. The televised event attracted 100 mil-
      regarding their origin, quality, and color—are they natu-              information. and do not forget that we are not here to                                                               lion viewers, a seemingly trivial figure for the Middle Kingdom
      ral or dyed? Moreover, the competition is fierce, primarily            criticize, complain, or downplay but rather to promote an                                                            but nonetheless an excellent audience according to the event’s
      from the producers of freshwater pearls. if we did not                 intrinsically beautiful and luxurious product that is truly                                                          organizers. The crown itself features 83 pearls of AAA quality,
      give facts and good reasons justifying the high prices of              one of nature’s most marvelous gifts.                                                                                ranging from 11 mm to 17 mm in diameter, all of which were
                                                                                                                                                                                                  selected by mr. robert wan himself. in other words, this is the
                                                                                                                             Didier BRODBECK                                                      crème de la crème! no, “Everybody is in Pearls” is not the name
       Contact:
                                                                               Contribution/translation:                     Nicolas MARTINON
       Nicolas MArTiNoN – nmartinon77@gmail.com
                                                                               Jessica Volz
                                                                                                                                                                                                  of the issue… but that’s what it’s like.
       didier BroDBecK – didier.brodbeck@gmail.com
                                                                               aimée CharrEST
       www.the-pearl-tribune.com                                                                                                                    CoVEr STorY
      Born in France in 1941, DiDier BroDBecK received his mBa from inSEad in fontainebleau, outside of Paris. drawn towards the
      creative, Brodbeck began his career in advertising, working with agencies Ted Bates, Benton & Bowles and J walter Thompson. during
      this twenty-year span, Brodbeck specialized in luxury brands, including rolex, de Beers, Guerlain perfume, Bordeaux wines and champa-
      gne. a long-time journalist and writer, didier Brodbeck is the author of a dozen books on watches, pearls, diamonds, and counterfeited
      goods, including le diamant dans tout son éclat, Bijoux, Chic et Toc – The real Book of fakes, faux ou Vrais – The Counterfeiting of
      Brands and most recently The miracle of the Gold Pearl. as publisher, didier Brodbeck created heure magazine (men’s watches), Tendan-
      ces (an “art de vivre” magazine) and A World of Dreams, the first French magazine dedicated to watches and jewelry. Brodbeck also serves
      as a consultant for the luxury goods industry.

      niColaS marTinon is the former General manager of one of the European leading company in cultured pearls (maison Schmittgall;
      Paris). His experience in the trade of the pearl is unique. He gained an experience for 20 years, traveling the world in search of the best
      partnership and allowed his company to quickly reach top ranks in Europe. all these years allowed him to weave single network with            Arte y JoyA n° 186      trends And Colors n° 291   le BiJoutier n° 780              dreams n° 54          Solitaire n° 47
      leading international experts. Attending the most famous jewelry shows and auctions such as Hong Kong, Tokyo & Kobe, Basel, Papeete...        The Erotica of Pearl    Golden opportunities       50 th Anniversary Tahiti Pearl   Special Pearl issue   The Pearl rush
p.2   live his passion & work with constant guidelines as respect each other and our environment.                                                   p 58-71                 p 54-55                    p 25-37                          p 57-84               p 100-125         p.3
SaGa
      The golden pearl, treasure of the Philippines


         for thirty years now, Jewelmer has     we had to see the pearl ourselves to better understand
                                                what makes it so valuable. The highly esteemed golden
       become the largest company produ-
                                                pearl commands an even higher price than its Tahitian
         cing Golden South Sea Pearls. The
                                                and Japanese counterparts primarily because of its ra-
      company was co-founded by a french        rity. it is no coincidence that in 1996, Fidel V. ramos, the
       perliculture specialist and a filipino   President of the republic of the Philippines, officially

           national and now employs over a      declared the Philippine Pearl, known as the South Sea

        thousand people. The golden pearl,      Pearl, as the country’s national gem. This gem is consi-
                                                dered a miracle of nature, and its natural golden color
        which continues to intrigue us and
                                                is fascinating. once extracted from its shell, the only        Jacques Branellec is synonymous to the “golden pearl”.       Exclusively established in the Philippines, Jewelmer re-
       remains difficult to produce, has yet
                                                treatment necessary for this gem, is rinsing it with salt      Today, Jewelmer produces 850,000 pearls annually, and        tail stores can be found in luxury hotels and shopping
                to be discovered in Europe.     water.                                                         is now considered the world’s largest producer of South      malls. Their workshop in manila, who is responsible for
                                                The mantle of this bivalve shell, the gold lipped pinc-        Sea Pearls, exceeding australia’s production. The par-       the fabrication of their jewelry, employs 40 goldsmiths
                                                tada maxima, gives the pearl its rich color. depending         tners own and operate 6 pearl farms, covering more           and artisans, among which were children of divers from
                                                on where it was cultivated, the shell produces pearls of       than 30,000 hectares of marine concession. The group         the pearl farms. They were trained in a jewelry school
                                                various colors, from silvery white to golden yellow. a         comprises over a thousand people, distributed among          started by the company. A collaboration of five designers
                                                pearl is an organic crystal formed with nacreous layers        the pearl farms, head office, retail shops and its works-    – filipino, french and italian – design for Jewelmer and
                                                of conchiolin and calcium carbonate. The intensity of          hop. fifteen retail stores have been opened in the Phi-      are submitted to a design Committee headed by the
                                                the orient is determined by the thickness and regularity       lippines; the first of which is located in the prestigious   Commercial director, Pierre fallourd. But soon, one of
                                                of the aragonite crystal layering.                             manila Peninsula hotel, where the french journalists         Jacques’ daughters, Gaelle Branellec, joined the com-

                                                it took over ten years for Jewelmer to be able                 were accommodated during their entire stay.                  pany and became the head of the creative department.
                                                                                                                                                                            She gained experience while working with a famous
                                                to produce a rich golden color, with extensive
                                                                                                                                                                            italian jeweler in Place Vendôme. Jacques-Christophe
                                                research and expertise in grafting.
                                                                                                                                                                            Branellec, a very talented young man who inherited his
                                                and yet, they are still challenged every year on their
                                                                                                                                                                            father’s passion for the pearl business, also joined the
                                                quest to produce the perfect pearl. a lot of factors come
                                                                                                                                                                            company. Together with Pierre, they represent the com-
                                                in during the nacre’s growth around the nucleus. and
                                                                                                                                                                            pany in different international tradeshows where Jewel-
                                                so, the birth of a golden pearl is considered as a gift of
                                                                                                                                                                            mer’s presence is very visible: Basel, Hong Kong, Tokyo,
                                                nature to men to take care of. among these men, one
                                                                                                                                                                            Kobe, and Las Vegas. The company further strengthe-
                                                has worked relentlessly for decades, in order to over-
                                                                                                                                                                            ned its strong international presence with Jewelmer
                                                come the challenge of pearl culturing. a native of Brit-
                                                                                                                                                                            france headed by Barthelemy hatt. he organizes talks
                                                tany, france he decided to sail around the world, and
                                                                                                                                                                            with professional audiences and supervises activities in
                                                eventually made his final halt in the Philippines. Now,
p.4                                                                                                                                                                         jewelry shops to promote the golden pearls. distribu-       p.5
pirates, and against the widespread practice of dynamite
                                                                                                                                 and cyanide fishing, which is extremely destructive for



                                                                                                                                                                                                     P in P
                                                                                                                                 the environment. for pearl farming, it is absolutely cru-
                                                                                                                                 cial to cultivate pearls in pristine waters so as to main-
                                                                                                                                                                                                      eople earls
                                                                                                                                 tain stability in the ecosystem.
                                                                                                                                 The constant culturing of pearls in an area will even-
                                                                                                                                                                                                     They love them, they wear them
                                                                                                                                 tually deplete its environment. To avoid this from hap-
                                                                                                                                 pening, Jewelmer decided to relocate and open new si-
                                                                                                                                 tes, so as to venture into breeding oysters in hatcheries. it
                                                                                                                                 takes approximately six years to produce a harvest, resul-
                                                                                                                                 ting from highly complex processes and requires everyo-
                                                                                                                                 ne to be vigilant at all times. Jacques Branellec explains:
                                                                                                                                                                                                     Michelle OBAMA
                                                                                                                                 “The production of a single pearl requires 323 opera-                      «Same look, same
                                                                                                                                 tions, and if one of these goes wrong, the perfection of a                  smile, same Pearls
                                                                                                                                                                                                         around her neck. The
                                                                                                                                 pearl will be affected.” Jewelmer transformed itself from                first Lady is so chic!»

                                                                                                                                 merely extracting of shells, to a sustainable development                                                            chArlène
                                                                                                                                 company through the production of its own oysters using                                                              WiTTsTOck
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                «The winds of change
                                                                                                                                 biotechnology. it opened doors for laboratory production
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               are blowing across the
      tion to france’s top retailers yields very encouraging        ned. The orient reflection can go from pink to green.        of microalgae for the growth of oyster larvae. This labora-                                               Mediterranean... Monaco
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            ‘crowns’ its new princess,
      results thanks to the promotional efforts which inclu-        A color classification of about a dozen variations was       tory, protected from light, is where the baby shells start to                                                Charlene Wittstock, 33,
      des sales staff training, pearl events, and a very strong     established to better monitor the production analysis.                                                                                                                    who chose a necklace
                                                                                                                                 develop their nacre as they cling to nets. To achieve this,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           of cultured Tahitian pearls
      presence in consumer media. «france is a springboard          apart from the shell itself, some of these factors can       this entails feeding the larvae a specific kind of plankton,                                               (from Maison Repossi). A
      toward Europe,» explains Pierre fallourd. it serves as        also contribute to the production of a wider range of        every two hours, everyday for nine days. Then, only 3% of
                                                                                                                                                                                                             WhO is she ?                           little sweetness...»
                                                                                                                                                                                                        «Here is the first official
      a marketing learning ground with broad product offe-          pearl colors: like the minerals, salinity, plankton or the   these may be used for breeding. in Taytay, three to four             snapshot of Meryl Streep
                                                                                                                                                                                                           as the ‘Iron Lady.’ The
      rings ranging from classic settings in gold to some more      condition of the water”.                                     million bivalves are constantly being cultured, and each                     shooting of the film
      elaborate designs set in gold and diamonds. manuel                                                                                                                                                     based on the life of
                                                                    Protecting the pearls and the environment:                   of these are followed through each stage. The opening of
                                                                                                                                                                                                     Margaret Thatcher started
      Cojuangco announced his plans of opening Jewelmer             after the crafting procedure, the oysters, placed inside     the hatchery and production sites reinforces Jewelmer               in January. In this picture,
                                                                                                                                                                                                     we are reminded that the
      stores outside the Philippines in the near future, which      baskets, are returned back in the waters, 10 feet under      environmental policies. “We were the first to mobilize                 ‘Iron Lady’ is wearing a
      is currently carrying out 70% of the sales. To produce a                                                                                                                                        South Sea cultured pearl
                                                                    so as to protect them from predators. it takes two to        against dynamite and cyanide fishing. We also are aware
                                                                                                                                                                                                        necklace and perhaps
      perfect strand, it has to be sorted out from more than        three years to produce a pearl. during this period, the      that we maintain the biodiversity throughout the entire                   pearl earrings as well.
      250 000 pearls. in its head office in Makati, there is
                                                                                                                                                                                                      Madame Meryl Streep is                         lAdy gAgA
                                                                    oysters are turned every day to achieve the roundness of     region. we annually produce more oysters than what we                    truly a first-class artist.»                 «Lady GAGA
      a room specifically designed to allow natural light to                                                                     have taken out from the sea in decades. in areas where                                                       dripping with pearls...»
                                                                    a gem, and the baskets are cleaned every month. a mira-
      come in for the selection of pearls. five or six neckla-      cle of nature, produced in the sea waters in any weather     our farms are, the fish population rose by 5 to 6 times”.
      ces are regularly being matched. Philippine pearl sizes       condition. The company also has to protect itself from                                    Carine LOEILLET. Managing Editor
      range from 8-17 mm, with an average size of about 11.5                                                                                                      Orion Magazine (paris – France).

      mm. The pearl size mostly sold by the company, ranges
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         4 OscArs fOr A king
      from 9 to 10mm in diameter.                                                                                                                                                                       Noblesse oblige!. Helena Bonham Carter, who plays
                                                                                                                                                                           Jacques Branellec,
      “Grading of pearls has different stages”, as explained                                                                                                               founder of Jewelmer          the queen (mother) Elizabeth in « The King’s Speech »
                                                                                                                                                                           international,               by Tom Hooper, displays its discreet charm and
      by Pierre fallourd. “first, we sort them by their sha-                                                                                                               sorting a recent crop.       sensuality with these simple strings of pearls. Hat from
                                                                                                                                                                                                        Jeanny Beaven, the chief costume designer for ha-
      pes, quality, color and finally their size. it even takes a                                                                                                                                       ving so successfully translate the elegance of the first
                                                                                                                                                                           inside the labora-
      second or a third time to grade the pearls according to                                                                                                              tory, where Jewelmer         lady of England in the thirties.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Nathalie COupEz
                                                                                                                                                                           breeds the golden lip
p.6
      their quality, which is the most difficult to be determi-                                                                                                            oyster spats.                                                                                   p.7
hauTE JoaillEriE
Chaumet says it with pearls….


  at once airy and poetic, a symbol of
      strength and of tenderness, the
          bee takes us to the heart of
 Chaumet’s savoir-faire, thanks to the
          new Bee my love collection.

an emblem of napoleon i and a motif subsequently             ne setters, and polishers--all who perpetuate Chaumet’s
adopted by his official jeweler, the bee, together with      tradition of excellence in the workshops at 12, Place
the «attrape-moi si... tu m’aimes» collection and slo-       Vendôme.
gan, has resurfaced as a Chaumet icon embodying the
game of love and emotions, along with the power of the       Chaumet’s commitment: «Save the Bees»
hive. as a tribute to these winged inspirations, Chaumet     Still, just as precious to Chaumet are the real-life
has reused the honeycomb structure of the hive in its        pollinators and makers of honey themselves, which it
creation of thirty pieces of jewelry and haute Joaillerie    supports in conjunction with the Terre d’abeilles as-
featuring the bee: tiaras, necklaces, watches, pendant       sociation’s «Save the Bees» campaign. Chaumet proves
earrings, rings, and brooches. in order to incorporate       an ecological commitment and exceptional expertise in
the bee in a stylistic fashion, Chaumet called upon all      luxury jewelry can work together; after all, they use the
the necessary persons of talent: designers, jewelers, sto-   same language--the language of sentiment.




                                                                                                                         p.9
oCEan nEwS
                   marutea, more than a Pearl, a brand

                    marutea is an atoll found more than                       of the first Tahitian pearl pioneers. Thirty years later,
                                                                              wan is the recognized leader as much for the quantity
                    1,500 kilometers southeast of Tahiti,
                                                                              of his products as the exceptional quality of the fruits
                         and it’s one of robert Wan’s five
                                                                              of his labor. The list of big jewelry names who have used
                     pearl farms. it is certainly the farm                    robert’s pearls in their designs is long, among the most
                        that produces the most beautiful                      famous in the world including mikimoto, harry wins-

                     specimens. These pearls are priceless                    ton, Tiffany and Co. and damiani…

                     and are esteemed by enthusiasts and
                   experts looking for exceptional quality.                   robert wan holds another record, for having
                                                                              led to the creation of the biggest Tahitian pearl
                                                                              – 21 millimeters – which is named after him.

                                                                              The other reason, more than wan’s experience alone,
                                                                              is the exceptional quality of the sea where the oysters
                                                                              grow. numerous factors contribute to the mother-of-
                                                                              pearl’s production process, most importantly the ex-
                                                                              treme purity of the atoll’s waters. The oyster is delicate
   © Tim McKenna




                                                                              and the least pollution could destroy a pearl’s culture.
                                                                              To flourish, it needs stable temperatures. Sunshine is
                                           1-                           2-    another huge advantage. of course the mollusks’ plank-
                   indeed these are gems like other examples of nature’s      ton must be plentiful and perfectly health. finally, with
                   products. The terrain, here in the middle of the ocean,    the collaboration with the french research institute
                   and the geographical location play an essential role in    for ocean Exploitation, the robert wan group knew to
                   the quality of the finished product. As with wine, co-     surround itself with team, whose experience in Tahitian
                   gnac and champagne, we could classify Tahitian pearls      pearl culture is unique to Polynesia.
                   based on their origin. for example there are appella-
                   tions that allow us to rank wine (grand cru, cru classé,
                                                                              marutea atoll best meets the criteria needed to
                   cru bourgeois). So why are marutea pearls today consi-
                   dered among the most beautiful in the world? The           cultivate the Pinctada margaratifera oyster.
                   first reason is obvious - robert Wan’s precedence in       Better than a certified or quality label, Marutea is a true
                   the pearl cultivation field. in the mid-70s he was one     luxury brand for extremely high quality pearls.

                                                                                                                            Didier BRODBECK

                                                                                         1 - marutea Pearls the best of robert wan’s Production.
p.10                                                                                             2 - marutea is also the name of mr. wan’s boat.
BEST of
       Pearling perfection

       Paspaley is internationally renowned                          of a bygone era. The pioneering spirit and the romance
                                                                     of pearling remains an important part of Paspaley to-
          as the producer and source of the
                                                                     day. Paspaley divers still hand-collect wild pearl oysters
                world’s finest pearls and the
                                                                     from the depths of the ocean, just as pearl divers have
       exceptional quality of Paspaley South                         done for centuries. however in the modern era, Paspaley
              Sea pearls has made the name                           pearls are nurtured for years in their natural environ-

       synonymous with the finest and most                           ment by a dedicated team of pearlers and the world’s

               beautiful pearls in the world.                        only fleet of custom built pearling ships. each oyster is
                                                                     cared for by hand over many years on a remote Paspa-
       a rich and unique pearling heritage lies at the heart of      ley pearl farm where it flourishes in unspoilt, tropical
       Paspaley beginning in the early 1930s, when Nicholas          Australian waters. Yet even with the benefit of the most
       Paspaley Senior, MBe first searched for natural pearls        advanced cultivation methods, Paspaley has long em-
       along the remote northwest coast of australia.                braced the knowledge that the single most important
       The occasional find of a rare, gem-quality pearl igni-        influence on a pearl’s quality and beauty is the pris-
       ted a lifelong passion that inspired future generations       tine natural environment in which it is raised. Thus,
       of the Paspaley family to pursue the dream of culturing       working in harmony with nature in one of the world’s
       Australian South Sea pearls of the finest quality and         most breathtaking but fragile environments is the key
       beauty. Paspaley divers in brass dome helmets and hea-        to producing incomparable pearls. Each Paspaley aus-
       vily weighted dive suits risked their lives daily to search   tralian South Sea pearl remains in Paspaley’s care from
       the ocean floor for the elusive pearl oysters, connected      inception until it emerges from its oyster radiant with
       to the surface only by their rope lifeline and a hose that    the delicate combination of natural colour, lustre and
       siphoned air to the depths below. while many gave up on       orient that gives every Paspaley pearl its innate, inimi-
       the australian pearl industry and abandoned the trade         table beauty.
       in the early 1950s, Paspaley was able to overcome the
       many hardships associated with the antiquated pearling        For over 75 years Paspaley has been dedicated to the
       systems and embarked on a journey that would revolu-          pursuit of naturally beautiful pearls and driven by the
       tionise the world’s pearls.                                   ambition of perfection. with graceful shapes that charm
       from humble beginnings, Paspaley led the way to pio-          the eye – from the pleasing symmetry of the classic
       neer the modern infrastructure and techniques that are        round to the singular beauty of the baroque – and size
       an integral part of the world’s pearling practices today.     that range from the perfectly petite to pearls of majes-
       Perfecting the delicate art of pearl culture has enabled      tic proportions, these wondrous organic gems are the
       the creation of pearls of the finest quality, surpassing      queen among pearls and sought after by the world’s fo-
                                                                                                                                  Jewelry designer by Ella GafTEr
p.12   the rare natural pearls that were treasured by royalty        remost jewellery houses and true pearl connoisseurs.         (Ellagem international, new York) © Photo: douglas dubler
S.o.S.                                                                                                                                                   how much do you know about pearls?
       Save our Seas                                                                                                                                            1) What do we call the type of oyster that      gory are:                                           a     Palawan
                                                                                                                                                                creates Tahitian cultured pearls?                                                                   b     Balawan
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        a     Bizarre
       SPSf, lGus, the PCGa, and PCG have                  of lGus of Taytay Palawan, PCGa, PCG,             PCGa , PCG, and SPSf continue to monitor
                                                                                                                                                                     a    Pinctada collada                              b     rococo                                c     Erawan
       joined forces to aid a stranded indonesian          and SPSf spotted the tugboat anchored in          the situation closely because they fear a po-
                                                                                                                                                                     b    Pinctada maxima                               c     Baroque                               d     obiwan
       vessel. The Save Palawan Seas foundation            a nearby island, apparently having left the       tential environmental calamity if the barge
                                                                                                                                                                     c    Pinctada grata                                d     Complicated                     18) The most beautiful French Polynesian
       (SPSf) in cooperation with local govern-            barge and coal near Binatican island, also        were to be damaged and its cargo dumped
                                                                                                                                                                     d    Pinctada margaritifera                                                              pearls come from one of robert wan’s
       ment units, private citizens of the Philippine      a part of the marine sanctuary. unburned          onto the surrounding coral beds. To date,                                                          10) The pearls that are not nucleated are:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              farms, located on which atoll?
                                                                                                                                                                2) Chinese pearls come from which shell?                a     Titi
       Coast Guard auxiliary, and the Philippine           coal, when present in marine environments         a salvage team has gone to the site of the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    a     moorea
       Coast Guard have been attempting to aid                                                               grounded barge to assess the situation. it              a    Scallops                                      b     Tiki
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    b     marutea
       the stranded indonesian barge ivan Batam                                                              appears that there has been some damage to              b    mussels                                       c     Piti
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    c     Taratoa
       since it first entered a                                                                              the barge that would require minor repairs              c    Clams                                         d     Keshi
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    d     Bora bora
       marine Sanctuary off the coast of Taytay, Pa-                                                         before it could be towed. Time is of the es-            d    oysters                               11) The annual production of chinese
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              19) Which country declared the gold pearl
       lawan, on Tuesday, December 30, 2010. Agus                                                            sence, as it is feared that further delay would    3) The bead that you insert in the oyster co-   fresh water pearls in millions of units is:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              a national treasure in 1996?
       Priyanto, Captain of the vessel towing                                                                cause greater damage to the barge’s hull be-       mes from the waters of which american river:    (connect the pairs)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    a     The Philippines
       over 8,000 metric tons of coal, reported that                                                         cause the vessel is continuously battered by            a    The missouri river                         Chinese              a   e   10
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    b     australia
       they ran out of fuel en route to Batangas and                                                         both currents and rocks, factors that could             b    The mississipi                             Tahitian             b   f   100
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    c     Japan
       had entered the waters of the marine sanc-                                                            cause the coal to spill, endangering the sur-           c    The rio Grande                             akoya (Japan) c          g   500
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    d     Polynesia
       tuary to seek shelter from the rough waters.                                                          rounding marine life.                                   d    The hudson                                 South Sea            d   h   +1000
       fearing the adverse effects of prolonged ex-                                                                                                                                                                                                           20) Tahitian pearl which are then treated
                                                                                                                                                                4) This term has a Latin Name                   12) The average sizes of pearls measured
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              by chemicals or decolouring
       posure of coal on marine life, the foundation                                                         Save Palawan Seas foundation is a non-pro-              a    noyellus                              in millimeters are (connect the pairs):
       sold diesel to the vessel. ivan Batam left the                                                        fit organization that works alongside LGUs                                                                                                             a     By Belgian oysters
                                                                                                                                                                     b    novellus                                   Chinese              a   e   3–9
       sanctuary and docked in a nearby island ins-                                                          and the Philippine Coast Guard to vigilantly                                                                                                           b     By Polynesian oysters, which are
                                                                                                                                                                     c    nucleus                                    Tahitian             b   f   11 – 13
       tead of waiting for the arrival of more fuel        in sufficient quantities, can cause abrasion,     monitor the environmental situation in the                                                                                                                   then treated (by heat or coloring)
                                                                                                                                                                     d    nebulus                                    akoya (Japan) c          g   8 – 10
       from Manila. on January 2, 2011, the barge          smothering, alteration of sediment texture        region. ahrens, michael J and morrisey,                                                                                                                c     By Swiss oysters
                                                                                                                                                                5) how many years does one need to culti-            australian           d   h   6 – 10
       was spotted temporarily grounded near               and stability, reduced availability of light,     Donald J. 2005. oceanography and Marine                                                                                                                d     By african oysters from the Gulf
                                                                                                                                                                vate a Pinctada maxima before it’s ready to     13) Which country recently issued a bank                  of Guinea, fair trade
       the Southwest of maytigued island due to            and clogging of respiratory and feeding or-       Biology. Boca raton: CrC Press.                    be grafted?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                note showing a pearl inside a shell?
       choppy waters. after being given more fuel,         gans in marine life (ahrens and morrisey,                                                                 a    1
       they left the site the following day. members       2005). Members of LGUs of Taytay, Palawan,                                                                                                                   a     Japan
                                                                                                                                                                     b    2
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        b     indonesia                       iF YoU HAVe ANSWereD 15/20 or
                                                                                                                                                                     c    3
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        c     Philippines                     morE        CorrECTlY,             ConGraTula-
                                                                                                                                                                     d    4
       featured on arte french tv channel : ecology and pearl                                                                                                   6) After the grafting how much time is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        d     Emirates
                                                                                                                                                                                                                14) Austrialian pearls are harvested in:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              TionS! You will BE iSSuEd a diPlo-
                                                                                                                                                                needed for South Sea pearl oysters to                                                         ma aTTESTinG To Your SuCCESS-
                                                                                                                                                                produce a quality pearl?                                a     freshwater
                                                                                    the delicate nature of Pinctada maxima oysters and the traumatic                                                                                                          ful ComPlETion of PErliCulTurE
                                                                                                                                                                     a    1 year                                        b     lagoons
                                                                                    effects spurned by environmental changes. “here, the absence of oys-                                                                                                      TrAiNiNG. iF YoU Are BeLoW 15 YoU
                                                                                                                                                                     b    2 years                                       c     on the edge of beaches
                                                                                    ters is a terrible sign for the overall health of the seafloor,” explains
                                                                                                                                                                     c    3 years                                       d     in the middle of the sea        BETTEr SuBSCriBE To ThE PEarl
                                                                                    Jacques Branellec, the man who co-founded Jewelmer with manuel
                                                                                                                                                                     d    4 years                               15) The reflection of light or luster from    TriBunE...
                                                                                    Conjuangco. in addition, the harvesting of these special oysters that
                                                                                                                                                                                                                the heart of the pearl from its layers of
                                                                                    are heavily protected by their guardians has promoted a reduction           7) The pearl mollusks that can receive up
                                                                                                                                                                                                                aragonite is known as:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              iT’S frEE !
                                                                                    in cyanide fishing polluting the local waters. The fish have returned       to 30 grafts are:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        a     Shine
                                                                                    and the fishermen, who are permitted to fish directly below the ca-              a    Chinese mussels                               b     Gloss                           www.the-pearl-tribune.com
                                                                                    ges, rejoice. The islands—Jewelmer properties—have remained a ha-                b    australian oysters                            c     orient
       The film Palawan, the Pearl empire, produced by Thérèse engles,              ven for plants and animals alike, fostering a proper balance within a            c    Polynesian oysters                            d     Brillance
       aired on the arte channel in mid-february and certainly deserves             contained ecosystem. nonetheless, the big problem still remains: the             d    filipino oysters
                                                                                                                                                                                                                16) South Sea pearls from the gold-lipped
       45 minutes of attention. The French-Filipino company Jewelmer,               progressive warming of the oceans threatens the Pinctada maxima             8) in the film oceans 11, Julia roberts was     Pinctada maxima produce pearls of which
       the world’s leading producer of golden pearls, whose secrets are well        oysters, sparking concern about their future. Pragmatist Jacques Bra-       wearing a red dress and a necklace of…          color?
       guarded, has decided to open two of its seven farms as a means of            nellec hopes for a miracle and asks the salaried workers, who are very
                                                                                                                                                                     a    akoya pearls                                  a     Burgundy red
       promoting awareness about the plight of these mollusks. The beauty           Catholic, to pray that the day will soon come when the water tempe-
                                                                                                                                                                     b    fine pearls                                   b     Sauvignon white
       of the landscape and the role of the oysters play are beautifully cap-       ratures will return to their normal range.
                                                                                                                                                                     c    Burma pearls                                  c     Spumanti                        answers
       tured through the lens of Patrick Brandt’s camera, and the ensemble                                                                Nathalie COupEz            d    Tahitian pearls                               d     Champagne
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                14) d – 15) c – 16) d – 17) a – 18) b – 19) a – 20) b
                                                                                                                      For more information follow this link:
       of images illustrates the different steps in the production and harves-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              c – 10) d – 11) dg be cf dh– 12) ae bg ch df – 13) c –
                                                                                                                     www.arte.tv/fr/recherche/3639200.html      9) They are different types of pearls that      17) one of the principal islands where
p.14   ting processes. Yet still more distinct is the cry out to the public about                             Translated by Jessica Volz - jessavolz@aol.com    exist, those that ranked in the other cate-     South Sea gold pearls come from is:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               1) d – 2) b – 3) b – 4) c – 5) b – 6) b – 7) a – 8) a – 9)   p.15
If time is money, pearls are too

Pesos and pearls. The Philippine’s National Gem claims a place in the Filipino wallet. In an unprecedented
move, the Central Bank of the Philippines included the Philippine gold pearl in the latest incarnation of the
Peso banknotes. Unveiled in December 2010, the reverse side of the new 1000-peso bill sees the South Sea
pearl resting upon the Pinctada maxima oyster. It is the largest denomination of the Philippine peso.
Pearls are all the rage today--just one more reason why you should consider harnessing their powers to
benefit your business.

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The pearl tribune - Printed Version

  • 1. march, april, may 2011- N°1 all you waNted to kNow about pearls aNd more The besT AusTrAliAn peArls MAruTeA, Queen of peArls sAgA of The golden peArl Ecology and pearls on TV Stars love pearls Pearls by Chaumet, Paris The quizz
  • 2. EdiTorial nEwS why this Pearl Tribune ?... world PrEmiErE in ThE world of SouTh SEa PEarl “we are honoured to announce the from left to right: nicolas martinon (Pu- birth of The Pearl Tribune dedicated blisher of The Pearl Tribune), Jacques ...as you have noticed we are inunda- to Sea water cultured Pearls. under Christophe Branellec (Brand manager, the patronage of three main actors Jewelmer international), Peter Bracher ted with newsletters about diamonds, Bee my love of our industry: Jewelmer internatio- (Excecutive director, Paspaley group of new collection by Chaumet nal, robert wan luxury lTd. & Pas- companies), didier Brodbeck (Editor in colored stones, precious metals and paley Pearling Company PTY lTd. Chief of The Pearl Tribune and founder of This newsletter will inform and help dreams magazine), Pierre fallourd (TQm hardly anything about pearls, which commercial market players of retail manager of Jewelmer international), Phi- today, is one of the few expanding so that they become an intermediary for the final client. Be informed by the lippe Bouasse (design, Production and Quality robert wan luxury lTd), Jacques markets in the jewelry business. best in order to create more for your Branellec and manuel Cojuanco (founder own valued customers.” of Jewelmer international) There are three main reasons—among dozens of others— the South Sea and Tahitian Pearls, our industry would A French Touch For Miss chinA that sparked the idea for this project. first, pearls never suffer from the consequences. with your help and the in- The election of miss China world took place in october with had it so good. They are trendy, fun, and very popular formation you provide, we are confident this new media 32 beautiful finalists selected from over 1.8 million candidates. with women, brands, designers, and the list goes inde- outlet will serve as an invaluable tool for improving our robert wan, number one for Tahitian pearls, immediately accep- ted the invitation to sponsor the event, also because the Chinese finitely on. in short, the time to profit from this oppor- visibility on multiple levels. our newsletter is meant to be market is the most promising for his business. robert wan asked tunity is now; it is our duty. nonetheless, it is surprising your tribune. i talk to producers, wholesalers, designers, his french designer Philippe Bouasse, the proud recipient of the that retailers and consumers are not familiar with South retailers, and the press, and i now invite you to enrich Tahitian Pearl Trophy, to create a crown for the winner and tia- Sea Pearls in general, and there is a lot of uncertainty the content of this newsletter by sharing any relevant ras for the two dauphines. The televised event attracted 100 mil- regarding their origin, quality, and color—are they natu- information. and do not forget that we are not here to lion viewers, a seemingly trivial figure for the Middle Kingdom ral or dyed? Moreover, the competition is fierce, primarily criticize, complain, or downplay but rather to promote an but nonetheless an excellent audience according to the event’s from the producers of freshwater pearls. if we did not intrinsically beautiful and luxurious product that is truly organizers. The crown itself features 83 pearls of AAA quality, give facts and good reasons justifying the high prices of one of nature’s most marvelous gifts. ranging from 11 mm to 17 mm in diameter, all of which were selected by mr. robert wan himself. in other words, this is the Didier BRODBECK crème de la crème! no, “Everybody is in Pearls” is not the name Contact: Contribution/translation: Nicolas MARTINON Nicolas MArTiNoN – nmartinon77@gmail.com Jessica Volz of the issue… but that’s what it’s like. didier BroDBecK – didier.brodbeck@gmail.com aimée CharrEST www.the-pearl-tribune.com CoVEr STorY Born in France in 1941, DiDier BroDBecK received his mBa from inSEad in fontainebleau, outside of Paris. drawn towards the creative, Brodbeck began his career in advertising, working with agencies Ted Bates, Benton & Bowles and J walter Thompson. during this twenty-year span, Brodbeck specialized in luxury brands, including rolex, de Beers, Guerlain perfume, Bordeaux wines and champa- gne. a long-time journalist and writer, didier Brodbeck is the author of a dozen books on watches, pearls, diamonds, and counterfeited goods, including le diamant dans tout son éclat, Bijoux, Chic et Toc – The real Book of fakes, faux ou Vrais – The Counterfeiting of Brands and most recently The miracle of the Gold Pearl. as publisher, didier Brodbeck created heure magazine (men’s watches), Tendan- ces (an “art de vivre” magazine) and A World of Dreams, the first French magazine dedicated to watches and jewelry. Brodbeck also serves as a consultant for the luxury goods industry. niColaS marTinon is the former General manager of one of the European leading company in cultured pearls (maison Schmittgall; Paris). His experience in the trade of the pearl is unique. He gained an experience for 20 years, traveling the world in search of the best partnership and allowed his company to quickly reach top ranks in Europe. all these years allowed him to weave single network with Arte y JoyA n° 186 trends And Colors n° 291 le BiJoutier n° 780 dreams n° 54 Solitaire n° 47 leading international experts. Attending the most famous jewelry shows and auctions such as Hong Kong, Tokyo & Kobe, Basel, Papeete... The Erotica of Pearl Golden opportunities 50 th Anniversary Tahiti Pearl Special Pearl issue The Pearl rush p.2 live his passion & work with constant guidelines as respect each other and our environment. p 58-71 p 54-55 p 25-37 p 57-84 p 100-125 p.3
  • 3. SaGa The golden pearl, treasure of the Philippines for thirty years now, Jewelmer has we had to see the pearl ourselves to better understand what makes it so valuable. The highly esteemed golden become the largest company produ- pearl commands an even higher price than its Tahitian cing Golden South Sea Pearls. The and Japanese counterparts primarily because of its ra- company was co-founded by a french rity. it is no coincidence that in 1996, Fidel V. ramos, the perliculture specialist and a filipino President of the republic of the Philippines, officially national and now employs over a declared the Philippine Pearl, known as the South Sea thousand people. The golden pearl, Pearl, as the country’s national gem. This gem is consi- dered a miracle of nature, and its natural golden color which continues to intrigue us and is fascinating. once extracted from its shell, the only Jacques Branellec is synonymous to the “golden pearl”. Exclusively established in the Philippines, Jewelmer re- remains difficult to produce, has yet treatment necessary for this gem, is rinsing it with salt Today, Jewelmer produces 850,000 pearls annually, and tail stores can be found in luxury hotels and shopping to be discovered in Europe. water. is now considered the world’s largest producer of South malls. Their workshop in manila, who is responsible for The mantle of this bivalve shell, the gold lipped pinc- Sea Pearls, exceeding australia’s production. The par- the fabrication of their jewelry, employs 40 goldsmiths tada maxima, gives the pearl its rich color. depending tners own and operate 6 pearl farms, covering more and artisans, among which were children of divers from on where it was cultivated, the shell produces pearls of than 30,000 hectares of marine concession. The group the pearl farms. They were trained in a jewelry school various colors, from silvery white to golden yellow. a comprises over a thousand people, distributed among started by the company. A collaboration of five designers pearl is an organic crystal formed with nacreous layers the pearl farms, head office, retail shops and its works- – filipino, french and italian – design for Jewelmer and of conchiolin and calcium carbonate. The intensity of hop. fifteen retail stores have been opened in the Phi- are submitted to a design Committee headed by the the orient is determined by the thickness and regularity lippines; the first of which is located in the prestigious Commercial director, Pierre fallourd. But soon, one of of the aragonite crystal layering. manila Peninsula hotel, where the french journalists Jacques’ daughters, Gaelle Branellec, joined the com- it took over ten years for Jewelmer to be able were accommodated during their entire stay. pany and became the head of the creative department. She gained experience while working with a famous to produce a rich golden color, with extensive italian jeweler in Place Vendôme. Jacques-Christophe research and expertise in grafting. Branellec, a very talented young man who inherited his and yet, they are still challenged every year on their father’s passion for the pearl business, also joined the quest to produce the perfect pearl. a lot of factors come company. Together with Pierre, they represent the com- in during the nacre’s growth around the nucleus. and pany in different international tradeshows where Jewel- so, the birth of a golden pearl is considered as a gift of mer’s presence is very visible: Basel, Hong Kong, Tokyo, nature to men to take care of. among these men, one Kobe, and Las Vegas. The company further strengthe- has worked relentlessly for decades, in order to over- ned its strong international presence with Jewelmer come the challenge of pearl culturing. a native of Brit- france headed by Barthelemy hatt. he organizes talks tany, france he decided to sail around the world, and with professional audiences and supervises activities in eventually made his final halt in the Philippines. Now, p.4 jewelry shops to promote the golden pearls. distribu- p.5
  • 4. pirates, and against the widespread practice of dynamite and cyanide fishing, which is extremely destructive for P in P the environment. for pearl farming, it is absolutely cru- cial to cultivate pearls in pristine waters so as to main- eople earls tain stability in the ecosystem. The constant culturing of pearls in an area will even- They love them, they wear them tually deplete its environment. To avoid this from hap- pening, Jewelmer decided to relocate and open new si- tes, so as to venture into breeding oysters in hatcheries. it takes approximately six years to produce a harvest, resul- ting from highly complex processes and requires everyo- ne to be vigilant at all times. Jacques Branellec explains: Michelle OBAMA “The production of a single pearl requires 323 opera- «Same look, same tions, and if one of these goes wrong, the perfection of a smile, same Pearls around her neck. The pearl will be affected.” Jewelmer transformed itself from first Lady is so chic!» merely extracting of shells, to a sustainable development chArlène company through the production of its own oysters using WiTTsTOck «The winds of change biotechnology. it opened doors for laboratory production are blowing across the tion to france’s top retailers yields very encouraging ned. The orient reflection can go from pink to green. of microalgae for the growth of oyster larvae. This labora- Mediterranean... Monaco ‘crowns’ its new princess, results thanks to the promotional efforts which inclu- A color classification of about a dozen variations was tory, protected from light, is where the baby shells start to Charlene Wittstock, 33, des sales staff training, pearl events, and a very strong established to better monitor the production analysis. who chose a necklace develop their nacre as they cling to nets. To achieve this, of cultured Tahitian pearls presence in consumer media. «france is a springboard apart from the shell itself, some of these factors can this entails feeding the larvae a specific kind of plankton, (from Maison Repossi). A toward Europe,» explains Pierre fallourd. it serves as also contribute to the production of a wider range of every two hours, everyday for nine days. Then, only 3% of WhO is she ? little sweetness...» «Here is the first official a marketing learning ground with broad product offe- pearl colors: like the minerals, salinity, plankton or the these may be used for breeding. in Taytay, three to four snapshot of Meryl Streep as the ‘Iron Lady.’ The rings ranging from classic settings in gold to some more condition of the water”. million bivalves are constantly being cultured, and each shooting of the film elaborate designs set in gold and diamonds. manuel based on the life of Protecting the pearls and the environment: of these are followed through each stage. The opening of Margaret Thatcher started Cojuangco announced his plans of opening Jewelmer after the crafting procedure, the oysters, placed inside the hatchery and production sites reinforces Jewelmer in January. In this picture, we are reminded that the stores outside the Philippines in the near future, which baskets, are returned back in the waters, 10 feet under environmental policies. “We were the first to mobilize ‘Iron Lady’ is wearing a is currently carrying out 70% of the sales. To produce a South Sea cultured pearl so as to protect them from predators. it takes two to against dynamite and cyanide fishing. We also are aware necklace and perhaps perfect strand, it has to be sorted out from more than three years to produce a pearl. during this period, the that we maintain the biodiversity throughout the entire pearl earrings as well. 250 000 pearls. in its head office in Makati, there is Madame Meryl Streep is lAdy gAgA oysters are turned every day to achieve the roundness of region. we annually produce more oysters than what we truly a first-class artist.» «Lady GAGA a room specifically designed to allow natural light to have taken out from the sea in decades. in areas where dripping with pearls...» a gem, and the baskets are cleaned every month. a mira- come in for the selection of pearls. five or six neckla- cle of nature, produced in the sea waters in any weather our farms are, the fish population rose by 5 to 6 times”. ces are regularly being matched. Philippine pearl sizes condition. The company also has to protect itself from Carine LOEILLET. Managing Editor range from 8-17 mm, with an average size of about 11.5 Orion Magazine (paris – France). mm. The pearl size mostly sold by the company, ranges 4 OscArs fOr A king from 9 to 10mm in diameter. Noblesse oblige!. Helena Bonham Carter, who plays Jacques Branellec, “Grading of pearls has different stages”, as explained founder of Jewelmer the queen (mother) Elizabeth in « The King’s Speech » international, by Tom Hooper, displays its discreet charm and by Pierre fallourd. “first, we sort them by their sha- sorting a recent crop. sensuality with these simple strings of pearls. Hat from Jeanny Beaven, the chief costume designer for ha- pes, quality, color and finally their size. it even takes a ving so successfully translate the elegance of the first inside the labora- second or a third time to grade the pearls according to tory, where Jewelmer lady of England in the thirties. Nathalie COupEz breeds the golden lip p.6 their quality, which is the most difficult to be determi- oyster spats. p.7
  • 5. hauTE JoaillEriE Chaumet says it with pearls…. at once airy and poetic, a symbol of strength and of tenderness, the bee takes us to the heart of Chaumet’s savoir-faire, thanks to the new Bee my love collection. an emblem of napoleon i and a motif subsequently ne setters, and polishers--all who perpetuate Chaumet’s adopted by his official jeweler, the bee, together with tradition of excellence in the workshops at 12, Place the «attrape-moi si... tu m’aimes» collection and slo- Vendôme. gan, has resurfaced as a Chaumet icon embodying the game of love and emotions, along with the power of the Chaumet’s commitment: «Save the Bees» hive. as a tribute to these winged inspirations, Chaumet Still, just as precious to Chaumet are the real-life has reused the honeycomb structure of the hive in its pollinators and makers of honey themselves, which it creation of thirty pieces of jewelry and haute Joaillerie supports in conjunction with the Terre d’abeilles as- featuring the bee: tiaras, necklaces, watches, pendant sociation’s «Save the Bees» campaign. Chaumet proves earrings, rings, and brooches. in order to incorporate an ecological commitment and exceptional expertise in the bee in a stylistic fashion, Chaumet called upon all luxury jewelry can work together; after all, they use the the necessary persons of talent: designers, jewelers, sto- same language--the language of sentiment. p.9
  • 6. oCEan nEwS marutea, more than a Pearl, a brand marutea is an atoll found more than of the first Tahitian pearl pioneers. Thirty years later, wan is the recognized leader as much for the quantity 1,500 kilometers southeast of Tahiti, of his products as the exceptional quality of the fruits and it’s one of robert Wan’s five of his labor. The list of big jewelry names who have used pearl farms. it is certainly the farm robert’s pearls in their designs is long, among the most that produces the most beautiful famous in the world including mikimoto, harry wins- specimens. These pearls are priceless ton, Tiffany and Co. and damiani… and are esteemed by enthusiasts and experts looking for exceptional quality. robert wan holds another record, for having led to the creation of the biggest Tahitian pearl – 21 millimeters – which is named after him. The other reason, more than wan’s experience alone, is the exceptional quality of the sea where the oysters grow. numerous factors contribute to the mother-of- pearl’s production process, most importantly the ex- treme purity of the atoll’s waters. The oyster is delicate © Tim McKenna and the least pollution could destroy a pearl’s culture. To flourish, it needs stable temperatures. Sunshine is 1- 2- another huge advantage. of course the mollusks’ plank- indeed these are gems like other examples of nature’s ton must be plentiful and perfectly health. finally, with products. The terrain, here in the middle of the ocean, the collaboration with the french research institute and the geographical location play an essential role in for ocean Exploitation, the robert wan group knew to the quality of the finished product. As with wine, co- surround itself with team, whose experience in Tahitian gnac and champagne, we could classify Tahitian pearls pearl culture is unique to Polynesia. based on their origin. for example there are appella- tions that allow us to rank wine (grand cru, cru classé, marutea atoll best meets the criteria needed to cru bourgeois). So why are marutea pearls today consi- dered among the most beautiful in the world? The cultivate the Pinctada margaratifera oyster. first reason is obvious - robert Wan’s precedence in Better than a certified or quality label, Marutea is a true the pearl cultivation field. in the mid-70s he was one luxury brand for extremely high quality pearls. Didier BRODBECK 1 - marutea Pearls the best of robert wan’s Production. p.10 2 - marutea is also the name of mr. wan’s boat.
  • 7. BEST of Pearling perfection Paspaley is internationally renowned of a bygone era. The pioneering spirit and the romance of pearling remains an important part of Paspaley to- as the producer and source of the day. Paspaley divers still hand-collect wild pearl oysters world’s finest pearls and the from the depths of the ocean, just as pearl divers have exceptional quality of Paspaley South done for centuries. however in the modern era, Paspaley Sea pearls has made the name pearls are nurtured for years in their natural environ- synonymous with the finest and most ment by a dedicated team of pearlers and the world’s beautiful pearls in the world. only fleet of custom built pearling ships. each oyster is cared for by hand over many years on a remote Paspa- a rich and unique pearling heritage lies at the heart of ley pearl farm where it flourishes in unspoilt, tropical Paspaley beginning in the early 1930s, when Nicholas Australian waters. Yet even with the benefit of the most Paspaley Senior, MBe first searched for natural pearls advanced cultivation methods, Paspaley has long em- along the remote northwest coast of australia. braced the knowledge that the single most important The occasional find of a rare, gem-quality pearl igni- influence on a pearl’s quality and beauty is the pris- ted a lifelong passion that inspired future generations tine natural environment in which it is raised. Thus, of the Paspaley family to pursue the dream of culturing working in harmony with nature in one of the world’s Australian South Sea pearls of the finest quality and most breathtaking but fragile environments is the key beauty. Paspaley divers in brass dome helmets and hea- to producing incomparable pearls. Each Paspaley aus- vily weighted dive suits risked their lives daily to search tralian South Sea pearl remains in Paspaley’s care from the ocean floor for the elusive pearl oysters, connected inception until it emerges from its oyster radiant with to the surface only by their rope lifeline and a hose that the delicate combination of natural colour, lustre and siphoned air to the depths below. while many gave up on orient that gives every Paspaley pearl its innate, inimi- the australian pearl industry and abandoned the trade table beauty. in the early 1950s, Paspaley was able to overcome the many hardships associated with the antiquated pearling For over 75 years Paspaley has been dedicated to the systems and embarked on a journey that would revolu- pursuit of naturally beautiful pearls and driven by the tionise the world’s pearls. ambition of perfection. with graceful shapes that charm from humble beginnings, Paspaley led the way to pio- the eye – from the pleasing symmetry of the classic neer the modern infrastructure and techniques that are round to the singular beauty of the baroque – and size an integral part of the world’s pearling practices today. that range from the perfectly petite to pearls of majes- Perfecting the delicate art of pearl culture has enabled tic proportions, these wondrous organic gems are the the creation of pearls of the finest quality, surpassing queen among pearls and sought after by the world’s fo- Jewelry designer by Ella GafTEr p.12 the rare natural pearls that were treasured by royalty remost jewellery houses and true pearl connoisseurs. (Ellagem international, new York) © Photo: douglas dubler
  • 8. S.o.S. how much do you know about pearls? Save our Seas 1) What do we call the type of oyster that gory are: a Palawan creates Tahitian cultured pearls? b Balawan a Bizarre SPSf, lGus, the PCGa, and PCG have of lGus of Taytay Palawan, PCGa, PCG, PCGa , PCG, and SPSf continue to monitor a Pinctada collada b rococo c Erawan joined forces to aid a stranded indonesian and SPSf spotted the tugboat anchored in the situation closely because they fear a po- b Pinctada maxima c Baroque d obiwan vessel. The Save Palawan Seas foundation a nearby island, apparently having left the tential environmental calamity if the barge c Pinctada grata d Complicated 18) The most beautiful French Polynesian (SPSf) in cooperation with local govern- barge and coal near Binatican island, also were to be damaged and its cargo dumped d Pinctada margaritifera pearls come from one of robert wan’s ment units, private citizens of the Philippine a part of the marine sanctuary. unburned onto the surrounding coral beds. To date, 10) The pearls that are not nucleated are: farms, located on which atoll? 2) Chinese pearls come from which shell? a Titi Coast Guard auxiliary, and the Philippine coal, when present in marine environments a salvage team has gone to the site of the a moorea Coast Guard have been attempting to aid grounded barge to assess the situation. it a Scallops b Tiki b marutea the stranded indonesian barge ivan Batam appears that there has been some damage to b mussels c Piti c Taratoa since it first entered a the barge that would require minor repairs c Clams d Keshi d Bora bora marine Sanctuary off the coast of Taytay, Pa- before it could be towed. Time is of the es- d oysters 11) The annual production of chinese 19) Which country declared the gold pearl lawan, on Tuesday, December 30, 2010. Agus sence, as it is feared that further delay would 3) The bead that you insert in the oyster co- fresh water pearls in millions of units is: a national treasure in 1996? Priyanto, Captain of the vessel towing cause greater damage to the barge’s hull be- mes from the waters of which american river: (connect the pairs) a The Philippines over 8,000 metric tons of coal, reported that cause the vessel is continuously battered by a The missouri river Chinese a e 10 b australia they ran out of fuel en route to Batangas and both currents and rocks, factors that could b The mississipi Tahitian b f 100 c Japan had entered the waters of the marine sanc- cause the coal to spill, endangering the sur- c The rio Grande akoya (Japan) c g 500 d Polynesia tuary to seek shelter from the rough waters. rounding marine life. d The hudson South Sea d h +1000 fearing the adverse effects of prolonged ex- 20) Tahitian pearl which are then treated 4) This term has a Latin Name 12) The average sizes of pearls measured by chemicals or decolouring posure of coal on marine life, the foundation Save Palawan Seas foundation is a non-pro- a noyellus in millimeters are (connect the pairs): sold diesel to the vessel. ivan Batam left the fit organization that works alongside LGUs a By Belgian oysters b novellus Chinese a e 3–9 sanctuary and docked in a nearby island ins- and the Philippine Coast Guard to vigilantly b By Polynesian oysters, which are c nucleus Tahitian b f 11 – 13 tead of waiting for the arrival of more fuel in sufficient quantities, can cause abrasion, monitor the environmental situation in the then treated (by heat or coloring) d nebulus akoya (Japan) c g 8 – 10 from Manila. on January 2, 2011, the barge smothering, alteration of sediment texture region. ahrens, michael J and morrisey, c By Swiss oysters 5) how many years does one need to culti- australian d h 6 – 10 was spotted temporarily grounded near and stability, reduced availability of light, Donald J. 2005. oceanography and Marine d By african oysters from the Gulf vate a Pinctada maxima before it’s ready to 13) Which country recently issued a bank of Guinea, fair trade the Southwest of maytigued island due to and clogging of respiratory and feeding or- Biology. Boca raton: CrC Press. be grafted? note showing a pearl inside a shell? choppy waters. after being given more fuel, gans in marine life (ahrens and morrisey, a 1 they left the site the following day. members 2005). Members of LGUs of Taytay, Palawan, a Japan b 2 b indonesia iF YoU HAVe ANSWereD 15/20 or c 3 c Philippines morE CorrECTlY, ConGraTula- d 4 featured on arte french tv channel : ecology and pearl 6) After the grafting how much time is d Emirates 14) Austrialian pearls are harvested in: TionS! You will BE iSSuEd a diPlo- needed for South Sea pearl oysters to ma aTTESTinG To Your SuCCESS- produce a quality pearl? a freshwater the delicate nature of Pinctada maxima oysters and the traumatic ful ComPlETion of PErliCulTurE a 1 year b lagoons effects spurned by environmental changes. “here, the absence of oys- TrAiNiNG. iF YoU Are BeLoW 15 YoU b 2 years c on the edge of beaches ters is a terrible sign for the overall health of the seafloor,” explains c 3 years d in the middle of the sea BETTEr SuBSCriBE To ThE PEarl Jacques Branellec, the man who co-founded Jewelmer with manuel d 4 years 15) The reflection of light or luster from TriBunE... Conjuangco. in addition, the harvesting of these special oysters that the heart of the pearl from its layers of are heavily protected by their guardians has promoted a reduction 7) The pearl mollusks that can receive up aragonite is known as: iT’S frEE ! in cyanide fishing polluting the local waters. The fish have returned to 30 grafts are: a Shine and the fishermen, who are permitted to fish directly below the ca- a Chinese mussels b Gloss www.the-pearl-tribune.com ges, rejoice. The islands—Jewelmer properties—have remained a ha- b australian oysters c orient The film Palawan, the Pearl empire, produced by Thérèse engles, ven for plants and animals alike, fostering a proper balance within a c Polynesian oysters d Brillance aired on the arte channel in mid-february and certainly deserves contained ecosystem. nonetheless, the big problem still remains: the d filipino oysters 16) South Sea pearls from the gold-lipped 45 minutes of attention. The French-Filipino company Jewelmer, progressive warming of the oceans threatens the Pinctada maxima 8) in the film oceans 11, Julia roberts was Pinctada maxima produce pearls of which the world’s leading producer of golden pearls, whose secrets are well oysters, sparking concern about their future. Pragmatist Jacques Bra- wearing a red dress and a necklace of… color? guarded, has decided to open two of its seven farms as a means of nellec hopes for a miracle and asks the salaried workers, who are very a akoya pearls a Burgundy red promoting awareness about the plight of these mollusks. The beauty Catholic, to pray that the day will soon come when the water tempe- b fine pearls b Sauvignon white of the landscape and the role of the oysters play are beautifully cap- ratures will return to their normal range. c Burma pearls c Spumanti answers tured through the lens of Patrick Brandt’s camera, and the ensemble Nathalie COupEz d Tahitian pearls d Champagne 14) d – 15) c – 16) d – 17) a – 18) b – 19) a – 20) b For more information follow this link: of images illustrates the different steps in the production and harves- c – 10) d – 11) dg be cf dh– 12) ae bg ch df – 13) c – www.arte.tv/fr/recherche/3639200.html 9) They are different types of pearls that 17) one of the principal islands where p.14 ting processes. Yet still more distinct is the cry out to the public about Translated by Jessica Volz - jessavolz@aol.com exist, those that ranked in the other cate- South Sea gold pearls come from is: 1) d – 2) b – 3) b – 4) c – 5) b – 6) b – 7) a – 8) a – 9) p.15
  • 9. If time is money, pearls are too Pesos and pearls. The Philippine’s National Gem claims a place in the Filipino wallet. In an unprecedented move, the Central Bank of the Philippines included the Philippine gold pearl in the latest incarnation of the Peso banknotes. Unveiled in December 2010, the reverse side of the new 1000-peso bill sees the South Sea pearl resting upon the Pinctada maxima oyster. It is the largest denomination of the Philippine peso. Pearls are all the rage today--just one more reason why you should consider harnessing their powers to benefit your business.