1. Sewing Machine
INTODUCTION
A sewing machine is a machine used to stitch fabric and other materials together
with thread. Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution to
decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing companies. Since the
invention of the first working sewing machine, generally considered to have been the work
of Englishman Thomas Saint in 1790, the sewing machine has vastly improved the efficiency
and productivity of fabric, clothing and needle industries.
Home sewing machines are designed for one person to sew individual items while
using a single stitch type. Modern sewing machines are designed in such a way that the
fabric easily glides in and out of the machine without the hassle of needles and thimbles and
other such tools used in hand sewing, automating the process of stitching and saving
time.Industrial sewing machines, by contrast, are larger, faster, more complex, and more
varied in their size, cost, appearance, and task.
The fabric shifting mechanism may be a work guide or may be pattern-controlled.
Some machines can create embroidery-type stitches. Some have a work holder frame. Some
have a work feeder that can move along a curved path, while others have a work feeder with
a work clamp. Needle guards, safety devices to prevent accidental needle-stick injuries, are
often found on modern sewing machines.
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2. HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT SEWING MACHINE
In the 1640's, Elizabethan Period and later in the time of King Charles I, people were
applying for early patents or royal letters of protection and monopolies for weird and
wonderful mechanisms. However we have no firm proof of the machines and as poor old
Charlie came a croper we shall never know. In 1649 they removed his head. Then, Charles
Weisenthal took out a patent for a needle to be used for mechanical sewing.
In 1790 English inventor Thomas Saint was the first to patent a design for a sewing
machine but he did not advertise his invention. It was meant for leather and canvas. It is
likely that Saint had a working model but there is no evidence of one; he was a skilled
cabinet maker and included many practically functional features: an overhanging arm, a feed
mechanism (adequate for short lengths of leather), a vertical needle bar, and a looper. (In
1874 a sewing machine manufacturer, William Newton Wilson, found Saint's drawings in
the London Patent Office, made adjustments to the looper, and built a working machine,
currently owned by the London Science Museum.)
An Austrian tailor Josef Madersperger began developing the first sewing machine in
1807. He presented the first working machine in 1814. In 1830Barthélemy Thimonnier, a
French tailor, patented a sewing machine that sewed straight seams using chain stitch. By
1841, Thimonnier had a factory of 80 machines sewing uniforms for the French Army. The
factory was destroyed by rioting French tailors afraid of losing their livelihood. Thimonnier
had no further success with his machine.
The first American lockstitch sewing machine was invented by Walter Hunt in 1832.
His machine used an eye-pointed needle (with the eye and the point on the same end)
carrying the upper thread and a falling shuttle carrying the lower thread. The curved needle
moved through the fabric horizontally, leaving the loop as it withdrew. The shuttle passed
through the loop, interlocking the thread. The feed let the machine down, requiring the
machine to be stopped frequently and reset up. Hunt eventually lost interest in his machine
and sold it without bothering to patent it.
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3. In 1842, John Greenough patented the first sewing machine in the United
States. Elias Howe, born in Spencer, Massachusetts, created his sewing machine in 1845,
using a similar method to Hunt's, except the fabric was held vertically. The major
improvement he made was to have the needle running away from the point, starting from
the eye. After a lengthy stint in England trying to attract interest in his machine he returned
to America to find various people infringing his patent, among them Isaac Merritt
Singer.[5] He eventually won a case against patent infringement in 1854 and was awarded the
right to claim royalties from the manufacturers using ideas covered by his patent, including
Singer.
Trained as an engineer, Singer saw a rotary sewing machine being repaired in a
Boston shop. He thought it to be clumsy and promptly set out to design a better one. His
machine used a falling shuttle instead of a rotary one; the needle was mounted vertically
and included a presser foot to hold the cloth in place. It had a fixed arm to hold the needle
and included a basic tensioning system. This machine combined elements of Thimonnier's,
Hunt's, and Howe's machines. He was granted an American patent in 1851 and it was
suggested he patent the foot pedal (or treadle) used to power some of his machines;
however, it had been in use for too long for a patent to be issued. When Howe learned of
Singer's machine he took him to court. Howe won and Singer was forced to pay a lump sum
for all machines already produced. Singer then took out a license under Howe's patent and
paid him $1.15 per machine. Singer then entered a joint partnership with a lawyer named
Edward Clark. They established the first hire-purchase scheme to allow people to buy their
machines through payments over time.
Meanwhile Allen B. Wilson had developed a shuttle that reciprocated ("vibrated") in
a short arc, which was an improvement over Singer's and Howe's. However, John
Bradshaw had patented a similar device and was threatening to sue. Wilson decided to try a
new method. He went into partnership with Nathaniel Wheeler to produce a machine with a
rotary hook instead of a shuttle. This was far quieter and smoother than the other methods,
and the Wheeler and Wilson Company produced more machines in 1850s and 1860s than
any other manufacturer. Wilson also invented the four-motion feed mechanism; this is still
seen on every machine today. This had a forward, down, back, and up motion, which drew
the cloth through in an even and smooth motion. Charles Miller patented the first machine
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4. to stitch buttonholes. Through the 1850s more and more companies were being formed and
were trying to sue each other. This triggered a patent thicket known as the Sewing Machine
War.
In 1856 the Sewing Machine Combination was formed, consisting of Singer, Howe,
Wheeler, Wilson, Grover and Baker. These four companies pooled their patents, meaning
that all the other manufacturers had to obtain a license and pay $15 per machine. This lasted
until 1877 when the last patent expired.
James Edward Allen Gibbs (1829–1902), a farmer from Raphine in Rockbridge
County, Virginia patented the first chain-stitch single-thread sewing machine on June 2,
1857. In partnership with James Willcox, Gibbs became a principal in Willcox & Gibbs Sewing
Machine Company. Willcox & Gibbs commercial sewing machines are still used in the 21st
century.
In 1877 the world’s first crochet machine was invented and patented by Joseph M.
Merrow, then-president of what had started in the 1840s as a machine shop to develop
specialized machinery for the knitting operations. This crochet machine was the first
production overlock sewing machine. The Merrow Machine Companywent on to become
one of the largest American Manufacturers of overlock sewing machines, and continues to
be a global presence in the 21st century as the last American over-lock sewing machine
manufacturer.
In 1885 Singer patented the Singer Vibrating Shuttle sewing machine, which used
Allen B. Wilson's idea for a vibrating shuttle and was a better lockstitcher than the oscillating
shuttles of the time. Millions of the machines, perhaps the world's first really practical
sewing machine for domestic use, were produced until finally superseded by rotary shuttle
machines in the 20th century. Sewing machines continued being made to roughly the same
design, with more lavish decoration appearing until well into the 1900s.In 1905 Merrow won
a lawsuit against Willcox & Gibbs for the rights to the original crochet stitch.
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5. The first electric machines were developed by Singer Sewing Co. and introduced in
1889. At first these were standard machines with a motor strapped on the side. As more
homes gained power, these became more popular and the motor was gradually introduced
into the casing.Before he died in 1867 Howe was collecting royalties of more than four
thousand dollars a week and he had realized about $2,000,000 in total royalties. The sewing
machine industry based on his original invention made possible the mass production of
clothing on a much larger scale than had ever been possible with hand-stitching. By 1905,
Americans all over the country were beginning to sew with electrically powered machines.
Today sewing machines in manufacturing plants use computer technology to create
customized clothing with little human intervention.
ANALYSIS OF THE SEWING MACHINE
There are three categories in the analysis such as :-
Sewing machine needles.
Sewing machine forms.
Types of needle site
1) Sewing Machine Needles.
As we know, in the analysis of the sewing machine, the parts of the sewing machine
is also taken into account. One of the parts of the sewing machine is the needle. A sewing
needle is a long slender tool with a pointed tip. The first needles were made of bone or
wood, modern ones are manufactured from high carbon steel wire, nickel- or 18K gold
plated for corrosion resistance. The highest quality embroidery needles are plated with
two-thirds platinum and one-thirds titanium alloy. Traditionally, needles have been kept
in needle books or needle cases which have become an object of adornment.
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6. Sewing needles can also be kept in an etui, a small box that held needles and other
items such as scissors, pencils and tweezers. A needle for hand sewing has a hole, called
the eye at the blunt end to carry thread or cord through the fabric after the pointed end
pierces it.
Type of earlier hand sewing and sewing machine needle
Type of latest hand sewing and sewing machine needle
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7. Types of hand sewing needles.
Name Description
1. Appliqué - These are considered another all-purpose needle for sewing, appliqué,
and patch work.
2. Embroidery - Also known as crewel needles, identical to sharps but have a longer eye
to enable easier threading of multiple embroidery threads and
thicker yarns.
3. Milliners - A class of needles generally longer than sharps, useful
for basting and pleating, normally used in millinery work.
4. Easy- or Self- - Also called calyxeyed sharps, side threading, and spiral eye needles,
threading these needles have an open slot into which a thread may easily be
guided rather than the usual closed eye design.
5. Beading - These needles are very fine, with a narrow eye to enable them to fit
through the centre of beads and sequins along with a long shaft to
thread and hold a number of beads at a time.
6. Bodkin - Also called ballpoints, this is a long, thick needle with a ballpoint end
and a large, elongated eye. They can be flat or round and are generally
used for threading elastic, ribbon or tape through casings and lace
openings.
7. Chenille - These are similar to tapestry needles but with large, long eyes and a
very sharp point to penetrate closely woven fabrics. Useful
for ribbon embroidery.
8. Darning - Sometimes called finishing needles, these are designed with a blunt tip
and large eye making them similar to tapestry needles but longer; yarn
darners are the heaviest sub-variety.
9. Doll - Not designed for hand sewing at all, these needles are made long and
thin and are used for soft sculpturing on dolls, particularly facial details.
10. Leather - Also known as glovers and as wedge needles, these have a triangular
point designed to pierce leather without tearing it; often used on
leather-like materials such as vinyl and plastic.
11. Sailmaker - Similar to leather needles, but the triangular point extends further up
the shaft; designed for sewing thick canvas or heavy leather.
12. Tatting - These are built long with an even thickness for their entire length,
including at the eye, to enable thread to be pulled through the double
stitches used in tatting.
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8. 2) Sewing Machine Forms and Specification.
In this technological era, a variety of facilities including a sewing machine created. Like
other technologies, sewing machine also renewed with the changing times, from time to
time. Changes were made, including improvements in terms of usability, physical and others.
The picture below is the comparison between a sewing machine in the past and present.
Before Now
Need a manual method also. easy-to-use sewing machines that
produce consistent stitches and take
away guesswork when adjusting settings.
Require more care and sensitivity to A color touch screen makes it easy
change position stitches. to change and adjust stitches.
For some first machine, a machine is only This feature works so well that owners
for a certain type of fabric. say the machine does a great job with
jeans hems.
Typically a challenge for any sewing
machine
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9. For old sewing machines, to alter or Electronic machines to mechanical sewing
adjust the stitch length and width shall machines:-
remove the buttons in the correct changing stitches or adjusting stitch
position. length and width can be done with
the push of a button.
There are a number of old machine Compared with the old sewing machine,
designs or size is large. in terms of sewing machine recently the improved
ergonomics, it is difficult for the lift to terms of flavor, an important criteria
be carried anywhere. and it can be readily brought about
elsewhere.
For old sewing machine, using a This sewing machine also has adjustable
rotation system on the foot pedal that foot pressure, another good feature for
should be moved to run the machine quilters or others who work with
different types of thicknesses of fabric.
4) Types of Needle Site
On the needle and thread position located on a sewing machine, there is a container
for needle control called "needle site". At the time of the ancients, is the site of the needle
only use one form or design. Than at present, technology is growing rapidly, as well as the
needle site. They create different types or designs of needle sites and have their own uses of
it. There are various types of needle site. Below are some of the types and specification of
the needle site.
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10. TYPE OF SITE SPECIFICATION
Site: Site Piping
Machine type: Industrial
Uses: To stitch finishing kun, rope or
sewing stitches heap at the
connection.
Site: Site Wrinkles
Machine Type: Industrial
Purpose: To make stitches wrinkles.
Example Valance.
Site: Site Wrinkles
Machine Type: Industrial
Purpose: To make stitches wrinkles.
Example Valance.
Site: Site Teflon
Machine Type: Industrial
Uses: For stitching on smooth
surfaces. Examples of the types of
smooth lycra fabric, fabric t-shirts and
plastic
Site : Site Zip
Machine Type : Industrial
Uses : To stitch zip finish.
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11. Site : Zip Hide Sites
Machine Type : Industrial
Uses : For concealed zip finishes
seam.
Site: Site Button Hole
Machine Type: Industrial
Uses: To make button holes.
SUGGESTION AND RECOMMENDATION
After we analyzed the innovation of sewing machine, we realize that sewing machine
technology have grows rapidly as telephone, television, and others gadget. There have a lot
of patent of sewing machine with various of brand. We also knew that to sew each type of
stitch different types of sewing machines is needed. Besides that, each patent of sewing
machines has its own function and advantages. Not everybody can use all type of patent and
brand even the common user. There have different skill or step to use the sewing machine.
Sewing is fun when the machine works with you to create anything you want. Therefore, we
have some suggestion and recommendation to improve the sewing machine.
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12. Type of machine by stitch:
TYPES OF STITCH TYPES OF MACHINE
Straight/interlock Sewing machine
Edging sewing machine
(normal)
Edge (normal)
Edging sewing machine
Edge
Embroidery sewing machine
Embroidery filigree embroidery
hemstitch By hand
eel bone By hand
To get a simple ‘baju kurung’, ‘kebaya’ or ‘baju melayu Johor’ a tailor use more than
four types of stitch including straight, edge, hemstitch, eel bone and others. Then imagine if
the cloth has embroidery, beads and others. How many types of stitch will be used? Then,
how many sewing machine will a tailor should have if each stitch need specific machine?
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13. Therefore, we suggest to design sewing machine that have all the function and
control by computer to call the program. The tailor does not have to setting the needle and
threads each time to change the types of stitch. The design also should have hemstitch and
eel bone program too. A lot of time could be save.
By hand
Advantages of the design :
1. We could complete a cloth quickly by replace hand sewing with machine.
2. We do not have to change the needle and threads each time to change the type of
stitch and colour.
3. Only a small place will be need if only a machine will be used rather to use two or
more types of machines.
4. It also can prevent any bad effect such as back pain when sit too long while sewing
and sore eyes if the light not enough or too long see the small thing. By setting the
program, all the work will be done by the machine quickly and easily.
5. Increasing the productivity.
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