1. Ladies Who Brew: Women in the Wine, Beer and Spirits Industry
Although beer and wine manufacturing has become a male-dominated industry --
witness the fact that E. and J. Gallo doesn't stand for "Ernestine" and "Julia" -- it
wasn't always that way. The Egyptian goddess Hathor ruled over love, beauty and
beer, an indication of just how highly the ancient Egyptians prized their brew.
From Hathor to housewives who brewed ales for medieval inns and taverns,
brewing was women's work. The Industrial Revolution and mass manufacturing in
big breweries and distilleries changed that.
The resurgence of micro-breweries, artisanal distilleries and wineries is opening
the door for more women to claim that historic heritage. Beer and wine drinkers
are re-learning the joys of terroir, the French appreciation for the micro-climate
that produced a particular vintage or brew, and factory-produced spirits are losing
ground to the upstarts. Sophisticated tasters want evidence of craftsmanship in
their snifters or pint glasses -- and if that craftsmanship is at the hands of a woman
brewer, that's fine too.
Women have a unique perspective on matters of taste. Most taste actually comes
from the sense of smell, and women's olfactory senses are keener on average than
men's. Nicole Nollette, the CEO of San Francisco-based No. 209 Gin, and her sales
vice-president Wendi Webster specialize in creating artisanal gins and gin-centric
cocktails. Their spirits have a subtlety that goes beyond the astringent flavor of
mass-market gin and almost verges on perfume. Nor are these women mere
hobbyists; they showcased their gin at New Orleans' 2011 Tales of the Cocktail, a
decade-old celebration of beer, wine and spirits that has become one of the most
important industry events in the country. Nollette, 34, and Webster, 27, also have
social-media savvy on their side. Their gin might taste delicate, but their business
acumen is sharp.
While some women arrived at their interest in spirits only after getting old enough
to drink them, others grew up in the industry. Shauna Rosenblum of Rock Wall
Wines is 28, but her interest in the business of wines originated with her father,
winemaker Kent Rosenblum. The almost exclusively male crew who created her
father's wines encouraged her interest and let her sit in on blends, then on tastings
once she was old enough. She founded Rock Wall Wines in 2008 and recently
expanded the winery's tasting room.
Beer, the most popular potable, benefits from a woman's touch as well. Sarah
Fenson and Regan Long founded the Local Brewing Company seven years ago and
2. originally worked from their own loft. The women take the name of the company
seriously, crafting brews that take advantage of the best regional ingredients and
giving them names that resonate with San Francisco locals. Long, 33, and Fenson,
41, also teach brewing workshops that draw a mix of men and women interested in
brewing better beer. During recent classes, Long noted that "over 50 percent of the
people in the room are women," so the next crop of beer entrepreneurs may include
more than a few women as well.
Hathor would undoubtedly be pleased.