The document provides an overview of women's fashion from the early 1900s to present day. It discusses key fashion designers such as Mariano Fortuny, Coco Chanel, and Cristobal Balenciaga. Fortuny is credited with breaking from tight corset silhouettes with his loose, draped Delphos gown inspired by Greek sculptures. Chanel also designed loose, functional clothing and is known for the Chanel suit and little black dress. Balenciaga was a master tailor who created elegant, complex designs that updated traditional silhouettes.

1. From 1900s- Present Women's Fashion Early 1900s. Early 1990s.

3. Life of a Designer Continued… Starting new trends. Overseeing production. Managing marketing & finances. Alexander McQueen. Butterfly Hat , Spring/ Summer 2008.

4. Fashion Terms Haute Couture : Custom made & create certain ‘looks.’ John Galliano, Dior. Dress , Spring 2007. ( Haute : High, Couture : Fashion)

5. Prêt-a-porter : Mass-production: many sizes. (Boutiques & Clothing Stores) Fashion Terms Continued… Tommy Hilfiger. Coat , 2009. (Ready-to-Wear)

6. Givenchy. Dress , Fall 2010. Can you guess which design represents Haute Couture & which design represents Pret-a-porter ? Gucci. Ensemble; Fall 2003

7. What is STYLE ? John Galliano, Dior. Dress , Spring 2007. Hubert de Givenchy. Haute Couture , Fall 2010. Karl Lagerfeld. Chanel House , Winter 2010.

8. Style Personality Defines character Creative International Christian Dior. Haute , Autumn/Winter 2010 . Christian Lacroix. Haute Couture , Spring 2009 (Paris). Emilio Pucci. Haute Couture , Fall 2009.

9. Style Invention Issey Miyake. Dress. Inspiration Unique Artistic expression Yves Saint Laurent. "Mondrian" day dress , autumn 1965. Karl Lagerfeld. Chanel House , Fall 2010.

10. Trends I.e. Harajuku Current style Followers Trend setters Colour Block Trend , London. Harajuku Girls. Harajuku Girls.

14. Evolution Continued … Society & Fashion Continued… “ Fashion is a style … that is temporarily adopted [by a social group] … because that chosen style … is perceived to be socially appropriate for the time and situation” (Sproles & Burns, 1994). Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. Day ensemble , ca. 1927. Cristobal Balenciaga. Cocktail Dress , Spring/ Summer 1948.

16. Changes in Society Continued… Early 1900s: Looser Gowns: “ Straight Look” Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907. Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. Day ensemble , ca. 1927. Cristobal Balenciaga. Day dress , ca. 1960–64.

18. In the 1800s, the figure of a woman was tightly fitted, & greatly emphasized the rear. In the Past… Dress , 1800ss. Corset , 1800s. Silhouette , 1800s.

19. Wire frames were used to emphasize womanly features (were put underneath dresses & skirts). In the Past… Continued… Dress , 1800s. Wire Skirt , 1800s.

20. In the Past… Continued… Different types of hoop framing. Hoop frames , 1800s.

21. Transition from the 1800s to the 1900s Dress , 1800ss. Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907. Leave behind the form- fitting corsets & puffy skirts & start to embrace the loose & simple cut garments. Mariano Fortuny was one of the 1 st designers to radically change the silhouette of women’s dress.

23. Mariano Y Madrazo Fortuny Painted, photographed, worked with textiles, & clothing. Disliked trendiness & commercialism of fashion. Fashion did not interest Fortuny, for him, fashion was art. 1871-1949 Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907.

24. M a r i a n o F o r t u n y Peplos Kore , Acropolis, Athens, c.530 BC (1.17m) Acropolis Museum, Athens KORE: KOUROS: Kouros, Tenea c. 550 BC (1.35m) Glyptothek, Munich Dress Design (Delphos Gown): Classical Greek-inspired. Based on Kore & Kouros sculptures.

25. What similarities do you notice between the Kore Statue and the Delphos Gown ? Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907. Peplos Kore , Acropolis, Athens, c.530 BC (1.17m) Acropolis Museum, Athens Mariano Fortuny

26. Mariano Fortuny What other similarities do you notice between these two images ? Peplos Kore , Acropolis, Athens, c.530 BC (1.17m) Acropolis Museum, Athens Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907.

27. M a r i a n o F o r t u n y Peplos Kore , Acropolis, Athens, c.530 BC (1.17m) Acropolis Museum, Athens KORE: Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907. Wide neckline Wide neckline Loosely fitted Hung from shoulders

29. M a r i a n o F o r t u n y 1st textile creation: Knossos Scarves . Rectangular Cloth: silk veils, geometric shapes. Mariano Fortuny. Knossos Scarves , 1906.

30. MARIANO FORTUNY Mariano Fortuny. Knossos Scarves , 1906. Mariano Fortuny. Knossos Scarves , 1906. These scarves were Fortuny’s ‘stepping stones’ to creating his legendary Delphos Gowns. The same material used for the Knossos scarves, was also used in making the Delphos.

31. Mariano Fortuny. Coat, 1910s. Stencil Print: traditional Japanese pattern. Design: Straight- cut structure. Art nouveau piece. Mariano Fortuny Early Designs:

32. Mariano Fortuny. Gown, 1910s. Resembles kimono: Long, narrow collar & sleeves. Traditional Japanese patterns. Garment underneath: Delphos Gown. Mariano Fortuny Early Designs Continued…

33. Invention: DELPHOS GOWN (modern & original) Mariano Fortuny Pleated Dress This crimpled garment was seen as striking & dazzling. Pleats changed colour when the movement of the dress caught the reflection of the light. Mariano Fortuny. Delphos Gown, 1907.

35. Mariano Fortuny Long, (usually with train), Venetian glass beads at side seams, armholes function as weights for dress. Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907. Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907.

36. Mariano Fortuny Mariano Fortuny. Tunic and Pants, 1910s. Delphos Gown : Intended to show natural beauty of body’s shape. Simple dress, with loose silhouette. Inspiration : Classical Greek & Medieval Periods. Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907.

37. Mariano Fortuny Mariano Fortuny. Dress, 1930s. Renaissance pattern made by Fortuny. Mariano Fortuny. Dress, 1930s. Fortuny later began using velvet, which he eventually used to cover his Delphos Gowns.

38. Mariano Fortuny Mariano Fortuny is known to have broken through the corset & tight silhouette era, only to replace them with long, loose, & flowing garments. Because his clothing was very distinctive, many designers have used his designs for inspiration & have heavily relied on his art for their starting point in fashion. Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907.

39. A great example of a fashion designer who has definite similarities in her designs with those of Fortuny’s is Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907. Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel Evening Dress , ca. 1926–27.

40. C O C O C H A N E L

41. Coco Chanel “ A girl should be two things: Classy & Fabulous .” -Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel 1883-1971

42. Coco Chanel Chanel was known for her Avant Garde style. Avant Garde: Refers to people or works that are experimental & innovative. Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. Evening ensemble , 1936. Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. Evening dress , 1938.

44. Coco Chanel Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Coat and Hat, c.1920 & late 1910s. Opened her first hat shop in 1910. Later added 2 more stores & began selling clothing. In the 1900s, no outfit was complete without a hat!

45. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Evening Dress, c. 1920. Coco Chanel Her pieces resembled those of Fortuny’s. Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907. Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. Day Dress , ca. 1924.

46. COCO CHANEL Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Dress, c. 1926. Her designs proved that clothing could be both classic & casual. Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel Evening coat , ca. 1927.

47. Coco Chanel Had strong belief that women’s clothing needed to posses functional features (especially during both wars). Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Dress, c. 1927. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Dress , c. 1928. Combined masculine tailoring & women’s clothing. The “Little Black Dress”

48. Coco Chanel 1925: Introduced legendary Chanel suit with the collarless jacket & well-fitted skirt. Style element of men’s wear & emphasizes comfort. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Chanel Suit , 1929.

49. Mariano Fortuny. Tunic and Pants, 1910s. Coco Chanel Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Day Ensemble , c.1927. Both designers incorporated a straight, loose fitting feel in their designs.

50. Coco Chanel Took pride in wearing her creations, even more so because she was a working woman. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Day Ensemble , c. 1928. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Day Ensemble , c. 1927. Her signature look, paired with strands of pearls.

51. Coco Chanel Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Dress , c. 1935. As lightweight materials started to popularize, Chanel began using prints & patterns which incorporated many colours. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Evening Dress , c. 1930. Chanel’s use of lace in large amounts was shocking because it was known to be used for lingerie.

52. Coco Chanel Through the years, Chanel was consistent with her designs. Today, the Chanel Suit & the Little Black Dress are well- known & easily recognized worldwide. Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. Evening dress , 1938. Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. Evening ensemble , 1936. Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. Cocktail ensemble , ca. 1964. Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. Day ensemble , ca. 1927.

53. Coco Chanel Although her popularity decreased after World War II, she staged a comeback in the 1950s, partly in reaction to Christian Dior’s "New Look“. Chanel went on to become one the most important figures in the history of 20th century fashion.

54. Balenciaga Cristobal

55. Cristobal Balenciaga Master of fabric design & creation. Fashion innovator. 1895-1972 “ Women did not have to be perfect or even beautiful to wear his clothes. His clothes made them beautiful.” - Longtime Client

56. Cristobal Balenciaga Cristobal Balenciaga. Dress (Sketch), November 1948. Altered women’s silhouette. Balenciaga was one of the few designers who could actually cut & sew.

57. Cristobal Balenciaga Cristobal Balenciaga. Day Dress, Autumn/ Winter 1948. Created complex forms with cutting techniques. Cristobal Balenciaga. Day Dress (Close-up), Autumn/ Wionter 1949. Elegant & classic, this dress shape was similar to the garment shape of the 19 th century. Dress , 1800ss.

58. Cristobal Balenciaga used a lot of fabric, but dresses were very light. Cristobal Balenciaga. Evening Coat, Autumn/ Winter 1949. The rolled collar on his Evening Coat puts great emphasis on the individual’s slender neck. (Gives coat more of dramatic look.) Cristobal Balenciaga. Evening dress , Fall/Winter 1965–66 . (Effect was due to refined technique.) Balenciaga

59. Cristobal Balenciaga Balenciaga’s designs embodied fluidity & grace. Cristobal Balenciaga. Cocktail Dress , 1955. Cristobal Balenciaga. Cocktail Dress (Sketch) , 1955. Balenciaga’s style hinted at the classic & elegance from the past.

60. Cristobal Balenciaga Cristobal Balenciaga. Cocktail Dress , 1955. Dress , 1800s. His Cocktail Dress took inspiration from the late 19 th century bustle style. (I.e. movement/ commotion). Wire Skirt , 1800s.

61. Cristobal Balenciaga Cristobal Balenciaga. Cocktail Dress , Spring/ Summer 1948. Evening coat , fall/winter 1950 Cristobal Balenciaga

62. Cristobal Balenciaga Evening dress , fall/winter 1950 Cristobal Balenciaga Evening wrap , 1954–55 Cristobal Balenciaga

63. Cristobal Balenciaga Day dress , 1955–56 Cristobal Balenciaga Evening dress , ca. 1959 Cristobal Balenciaga

64. Cristobal Balenciaga. Day dress , ca. 1960–64. Day coat , 1964 Cristobal Balenciaga

65. Evening gown , 1965 Cristobal Balenciaga Dress ensemble , ca. 1965–66 Cristobal Balenciaga

71. Evening jacket , 1938, Elsa Schiaparelli Evening jacket , 1938, Elsa Schiaparelli

72. Elsa Schiaparelli, 1938 shocking-pink and black striped evening gown Elsa Schiaparelli, Evening Gown

73. Elsa Schiaparelli, The 1937 Lobster Dress Schiaparelli's Fall-Winter 1937-38, Shoe hat Elsa Schiaparelli, Tear Illusion Dress, 1938 “ Surrealism is an artistic movement and a philosophy that first gained popularity in the 1920s. It was a movement that believed traditional art should be replaced with anything "anti-art" and focused on the ridiculous, the absurd, and a basic disregard for form. Surrealism was a reaction to the philosophy of rationalism “(philosophy) the doctrine that knowledge is acquired by reason without resort to experience “, which many felt had caused, through the Industrial Revolution, the disaster of World War I. “

74. Chanel vs. Schiaparelli Evening jacket , 1938, Elsa Schiaparelli Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Day Ensemble , c. 1927.

75. Lady Gaga at the AMAs, 2009. Schiaparelli Skeleton Dress, 1938. Lady Gaga, Lobster Hat Striped Wedge Shoe

76. Christian Dior

78. Christian Dior Created a new look: Flower Women. Composed of rounded, soft shoulders, a narrow waist, & full skirt.

79. Christian Dior Outfits normally paired with: A hat (tilted to the side), gloves, & simple jewellery.

80. Christian Dior Dior used expensive fabrics to make his clothes Chérie dinner dress for example was made out of silk "Chérie" dinner dress, spring/summer 1947

87. Emilio Pucci, dresses

88. Pucci’s success brought several opportunities his way. One being him offered to design uniforms for airlines. He designed bright, patterned uniforms, he even included a glass helmet to keep the stewardess’ hair in place Emilio Pucci, Air Hostess Uniform and Helmet

90. Vintage 1960s Emilio Pucci Dress Creation and Design - 1964 - Emilio Pucci

91. Victoria Beckham wearing Emilio Pucci

92. Emilio Pucci, Fall 2008 Emilio Pucci, Winter 2010-11

93. Hubert De Givenchy

101. Yves Saint Laurent

107. Jean- Paul Gaultier

108. Jean- Paul Gaultier Avant Garde: Gaultier is always experimenting & innovating his designs. He started experimenting with fashion at a young age. (I.e. at 13, he designed a whole collection of clothing for both his mother & grandmother.) French Fashion Designer ! 1952

110. Jean- Paul Gaultier Gaultier took undergarments & incorporated them in outwear. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Dress , Spring/ Summer 1987. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Dress , Spring/ Summer 1987. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Jacket, Brassiere and Pants , Spring/ Summer 1987. He became known as the “enfant terrible,” meaning the “bad boy” of fashion .

111. Jean- Paul Gaultier These unique designs were his signature look. In 1990, Madonna actually wore Gaultier’s garments, which greatly increased their popularity. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Dress , Spring/ Summer 1987. Madonna. Singer , 1990.

112. Jean- Paul Gaultier Some of his most recognizable cutting- edge designs included jackets, dresses, & jumpsuits. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Jumpsuit , Spring/ Summer 1990. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Top, Skirt, and Gloves , Autumn/ Winter 1987. The artificial glow in fabric has been taken out, so material appears as real skin.

113. Jean- Paul Gaultier Gaultier's innovations have always pushed the boundaries of fashion . Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture , Spring/ Summer 2001. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture , Fall 2003.

114. Jean- Paul Gaultier Because of the success of his brand, Jean Paul Gaultier, also named as the successor of YSL, was hired as the creative director of Hermes in 2003/2004.

115. Jean- Paul Gaultier Jean- Paul Gaultier always held the audience’s interest during his seasonal Houte Couture fashion shows due to them being very extravagant & outrageous. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture , Spring/ Summer 2004. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture , Spring/ Summer 2008. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture , Winter 2005.

116. Jean- Paul Gaultier Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture , Spring/ Summer 2009. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture , Winter 2009. All shows consisted of a theme & was mainly featured about Gaultier’s latest exotic destination.

118. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture . Gaultier is probably one of the most targeted (by critics) of all designers because of his originality & wild creations.

119. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Headgear (Haute Couture), Autumn/ Winter 2008-09. He has made a great impact on the fashion society & has reinvented the concept of Haute Couture, by raising the standards for all future designers. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture.

126. Issey Miyake, staircase

127. Issey Miyake, Pleats Please line, paper dress

128. Wool knit, 1989, Issey Miyake Ensemble, 1983, Issey Miyake

129. Gianni Versace

135. Karl Lagerfeld

136. Karl is one of the most multitalented designers known today. Maintained his reputation through his successful and strong collections and runway shows

140. Ability to mix quirky with classic changed the direction of modern fashion Karl Lagerfeld Suit. Chanel Spring 2008

141. An expert at combining elements of street style with elegance of haute couture. Karl Lagerfeld Dress. Fall 2010

146. Lagerfeld vs. Chanel Karl Lagerfeld. Suit . 1992. Karl Lagerfeld. Haus of Chanel. Spring 2011 Simple, tailored traditional style of Chanel; which includes the feminine vibe Padded shoulder pads Low cut

148. Karl Lagerfeld. Suit for House of Chanel. 1992 Karl Lagerfeld Suit for House of Chanel, 2011 This is an example of how fashion can change over time. Puffed Sleeves, the collar, smaller buttons, the type of fabric he used; more feminine Adding simple designs modernizes the clothing

149. Now lets see if you can tell the difference

152. At his most recent fashion show, (Fall 2010) he had a sculpture of a lion made just for this show Shows how creative, inspiring and determination, dedication he puts on his work.

159. Christian Lacroix, spring couture 2009 Christian Lacroix, Fall couture 2008

160. Christian Lacroix, Fall couture, 2008 Christian Lacroix, Patchwork dress

162. Signed to Givenchy in 1996 to replace John Galliano. But later parted ways and created his couture line: Alexander McQueen

164. Alexander Mcqueen. Ensemble. Some of his designs are very tough, dark, edgy and

165. Alexander Mcqueen. Oyster Dress. 2003 But also create something elegant Corset. Very detailed Lots of ruffles, layering. Very luxe

167. Takes part in Dior’s ‘New look” Cinched waist, puffy dress Exquisite detailing. Very tailored

168. Givenchy vs. McQueen Hubert Givenchy. Cocktail Ensemble , Spring/Summer1953 Alexander McQueen. Dress, Fall 2010 Givenchy is more elegant, cocktail wear McQueen’s designs are more couture

169. Alexander McQueen. Dress; Spring 2011 Influenced by organic art. leather pieces cut into flowers

170. Alexander McQueen. Dress, Fall 2010 Alexander McQueen. Dress, Summer 2010 Another example of organic art. This dress has an earthy feel; the colours used in the fabrics and how its flowy

171. Alexander Mcqueen. 2011 Alexander McQueen. Dress, Fall 2010

172. This butterfly effect represent ruffles Phillip Lim. 3.1 Sleeveless Dress; 2006 Alexander McQueen. Dress, Fall 2010

173. Alexander McQueen. Shoe, Spring 2010 Lobster Claw Lobster claw-inspired

179. Tom Ford. Ensemble, Evening. 1996-1997 Very simple and elegant, yet seductive. Cut-offs at the side Low cut Thin straps Uses silk for the dress to fall on the body, highlighting every curve

180. Gucci. Beachwear; 1970s. Gucci’s design influenced Ford’s use of cut-offs This design also shows how it influenced Ford’s style as sexy. J.Crew Swimwear;

182. Tom Ford (Gucci). Dress; spring/summer 2003 Exposure of the leg and the deep v-neck shows ford’s trademark style.