The Travel & Leisure Magazine Thailand Feature

Karst away
in bling and buy paradise
From its gorgeous beaches and craggy karst islands to golden palaces,
jungles and great shopping, it is hardly surprising Thailand is such a
popular holiday spot. Debbie Ward is a Thai dyed-in-the-wool fan…

“T
here’s the big- paddle tour of scenic rock climbing; there’s a
headed ghost” mangroves at Thailand’s cultural side – if you join
said my guide, southerly resort of the monks (and the
flashing the beam Krabi. My small monkeys) at the nearby
of her torch into kayaking party not Tiger Cave Temple;
Main photo and inset:Tourism Authority of Thailand

the upper reaches only took in the “big- and, of course, there’s
of the cave. I could make out a striped headed ghost cave” but some of the world’s most
snake-like creature with a bulge and an eye also tunnels hung with gorgeous beaches to lie
at one end. I did what any tourist would do, stalactites and leafy corri- your towel upon.
I took a photo. dors where brightly-coloured I Wat Pho Buddha Low-key Krabi may not be
As I was wearing flip flops and my only crabs crawled up exposed tree Thailand’s most popular resort (it
means of escape was a kayak it’s just as well roots. lags in that respect behind Phuket and
this was no malevolent monster but a 2,000 Krabi could be considered a small-scale Koh Samui) but if your mental image of the
year-old cave painting, given its nickname showcase of the tourist appeal of whole of country is craggy limestone karst islands and
by Thai fishermen. Thailand. There’s adventure – with kayak- long-tail boats decorated with ribbons in a
My brush with ancient spirits came on a ing, jungle hikes to hot springs and even turquoise sea, this is where the photos you’re

6 The Travel & Leisure Magazine July/August 2009

getting to KNOW
THAILAND

recalling were mostly likely taken. The icon-
ic karst islands were made famous when one I Long-tail boats and karst island off Krabi
was used as a location for the villain
Scaramanga’s hideout in the 1974 Bond film
The Man with the Golden Gun. Now popu-
larly known as James Bond Island, Koh Tapu
(translating as Nail island as it is virtually
vertical) is in Phang Nga Bay and can be
reached on a day trip from Krabi or Phuket.

Island hopping
Krabi’s main strip, Ao Nang, has something
of a waterborne rush hour each morning as
Debbie Ward

long-tails start their noisy outboard motors
to whisk day-tripping tourists into karst-
studded Phang Nga Bay. My partner and I
joined one of the island-hopping excursions By night we enjoyed browsing the restau- By day, when we weren’t on excursions
for a lazy day of sunbathing and snorkelling rants at the quieter eastern end of Ao Nang, we made shorter hops, using the long-tails
on and around five beaches of increasing checking out the catch of the day displayed as a ferry service to the attractive neighbour-
loveliness. Some of the places we stopped on iced trays before tucking our legs under a ing beaches of Railay and, my personal
at were nothing more than sandbars but bamboo table and tucking in to three or four favourite Thai beach, Phra Nang. Here, at
enterprising Thais had turned their long- colourful stir-fry or curry dishes for under one end of the cliff-framed white sand strip,
tails into floating cafes serving milkshakes, £10. Afterwards we’d head for a cocktail at a I found another surprise waiting in a cave –
sandwiches and fruit. bar converted from an old VW campervan. rows of brightly-painted wooden phalluses.

July/August 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 7

While it may be a giggle for tourists, some
locals believe this cave contains the spirit of
a drowned princess – and I kept a respectful
distance from the devotees offering prayers
before the unusual shrine.

Friendly people
Thailand’s predominantly-Buddhist spiritu-
ality is part of what makes it so famously
friendly. Thais consider it a loss of face to
resort to argument and you’ll rarely hear
raised voices. The short-lived violence at the
government protests of late last year was out

Tourism Authority of Thailand
of character in this usually-peaceful country.
Buddhism also gives Thailand some of its
most colourful sights, such as gold bell-shaped
temple stupas and saffron-robed monks. My
beach shrine was a far cry from the country’s
more glitzy places of worship, the most I Relxation, Thai style
revered of which lies within Bangkok’s key
tourist attraction, the Grand Palace. On my visit I had my own lie down for a tance are the Bridge over the River Kwai, the
You haven’t seen bling until you’ve wan- very affordable kneading at the massage so-called Death Railway built by WWII pris-
dered this sprawling complex of gold leaf- school in Wat Pho’s grounds. oners of war, and Ayutthaya, the site of
covered, jewel-encrusted buildings set Bangkok’s other must-sees, the pottery Thailand’s former royal capital. At the sec-
beside the city’s Chao Phraya River. Despite studded temple of dawn – Wat Arun – and ond of these I was charmed to discover the
the crowds it’s a peaceful place to be, with the small Royal Barges Museum are close odd crumbling stone Buddha statue respect-
Thais making incense and lotus blossom by and reached on a river boat tour. Just fully clothed with saffron robes or patched
offerings and kneeling before the precious beware of locals telling you the attraction with gold leaf among the restored temples
statue that’s the focal point of the Temple of you seek is closed for lunch, flooded or oth- and atmospheric ruins. Most people arrive
the Emerald Buddha. Next door to the erwise unavailable and helpfully suggesting at Ayutthaya by road but it’s possible to
Grand Palace, Wat Pho is home to a giant, alternative sights. They’re invariably drum- make a romantic two-night, three-day jour-
reclining Buddha with feet inlaid with moth- ming up business for a mate with a tuk-tuk! ney aboard a converted rice barge
er of pearl. Out of Bangkok but within day-trip dis- (www.manohracruises.com).

G When visiting Bangkok’s Royal Palace wear enclosed
Cultural tips shoes or sandals with straps around the heels to save
queuing to hire appropriate footwear.
G It is considered rude to point your feet at people in G Be prepared to cover your shoulders and remove shoes
Thailand and especially at images of Buddha.Take care to inside temples.
tuck your feet behind you when sitting on the floor, G The Thai royal family is highly-revered, so derogatory
particularly in temples. comments about them and disrespectful treatment of
G It’s also taboo to touch someone’s head, or to touch Baht notes bearing the king’s image will not be
monks. appreciated.

I The Royal Palace, Bangkok


Thai massage I Traditional Thai massage. Below
left: Thai massage ingredients
Thailand’s unique and effective form of
massage combines stretches with
reflexology-like stimulation of pressure
points. Much attention is focused on the
feet but the masseur will also pull your
pyjama-clad limbs into slightly scary but
ultimately muscle-easing positions, which is
why this technique is sometimes called
“passive yoga”.
If you’re nervous, start with a foot
massage or the more gentle Thai treatments
involving warm herbal poultices.Whatever
you choose, your relaxation will be aided by
the low cost.While you’d commonly pay £1
a minute for a massage at home, £4 an hour
is more typical in Thailand’s clean street or
beachside centres (look out for the
reflexology charts outside) and as little as
£30 in a plush hotel spa with a range of
international treatments.

All photos:Tourism Authority of Thailand

Cycling tour inside what looks like the belly of a bright from recycled animal feed sacks and eating
On another visit to Bangkok, I made my white space ship. Glamorous skyscraper-top dinner under a chandelier hung with Barbie
escape from the city on one of the capital’s bars such as Sirocco Sky Bar dolls. While not everyone will love the
new cycling tours. Thankfully this didn’t (www.thedomebkk.com) at State Tower or quirkiness of this place there are several
route me through Bangkok’s traffic-choked Vertigo Grill & Moon Bar boutique hotels in the capital where the style
streets; instead, our small group was led by (www.banyantree.com) atop the Banyan is more traditional, meaning you no longer
the guide along quiet paths through nearby Tree offer a different perspective with city have to go large for a bit of city chic.
farming areas, creating our own refreshing views that stretch to the horizon.
breeze as we went. During an enlightening Bangkok’s hotels also pack that wow fac- Bargain shopping
day, we stopped to ask farmers the secrets of tor and nowadays size isn’t everything. I recommend hitting Bangkok last if you
the famously-stinky durian fruit and called I’ve been lucky enough to stay in several can. Not only will you have shed
in at a local infant school to watch an plush marble-lobbied giants on the your jetlag in a more relaxed
English lesson in progress. Flinging our riverfront over the years but, on environment but you’ll
mountain bikes into a boat for a short ride my last trip, I chose to down- have got to grips with
up river, we ended up at Koh Kret, an island size to Reflections Rooms I Shop for haggling and the
known for its pottery making and where we (www.reflections-thai.com), local crafts exchange rate
watched freshly-moulded incense burners a bizarre and very afford- before you hit the
being loaded into kilns. able establishment where a capital’s shopping
While the big sights of Bangkok are about host of artists have been highlights.
history, one of its other key attractions – its given free reign with the Most tourists
nightlife – is bang up to date. Among the decor. I found myself beat a path to the
most famous venues is Bed Supper Club crunching my way across my rather seedy streets
(www.bedsupperclub.com), where you can room on silver bubble wrap around Patpong for
dance, or recline to eat and sip cocktails flooring, sitting on a sofa made the ever-popular night


to see Cambodia’s famous Angkor Wat tem-
ples is another great combination.
Here’s a regional round-up of Thailand’s
key resorts:

Andaman Sea
Krabi and Phuket both front the spectacular
island-studded Phang Nga Bay, a scenic
playground of beautiful beaches, caves and
cliffs for lazing, kayaking and snorkelling.
Phuket, Thailand’s most popular resort, is
by far the liveliest of the two. This is the
place to come for big resort facilities, party
action and international fast-food favourites.
The large island, linked to the mainland
by road bridge, has also gained some peace-
ful and stylish retreats in recent years, par-
ticularly on it’s east and north-west coasts.
For divers, Phuket is the gateway to
Thailand’s world-class sites of the Similan
Islands, Surin Islands and Burma Banks.
Quieter Khao Lak, on the mainland just
above Phuket, is even closer.
Classy resorts have sprung up on some of
the islands in Phang Nga Bay, including Koh
Lanta, Koh Racha and day-trip favourite the
Phi Phi islands – famous as the filming site
for The Beach.

Gulf of Thailand
While most of Thailand is best visited in the
winter months, sheltered Koh Samui to the
south of the Gulf of Thailand has an opposite
season. It’s a honeymoon favourite so there’s
plenty of romantic accommodation while
I Elephant riding in northern Thailand family attractions like a training centre for
coconut-picking monkeys are strung along
the island’s loop road. Offshore, you can
market. While I’ve had fun singing along to bites put paid to the mas- tour around Angthong National Marine Park
Tom Jones impersonators at Radio City bar sage marathon I had or linger on neighbouring islands Koh Pha
and snapping up a few bargains here in my planned on my last visit, I Ngan – famous for its full moon parties –
time, for serious browsing I head to still got to make like a celebri- and Koh Tao, a top spot for beginner
Chatuchak. This colossal weekend market ty by having a Bangkok tai- divers.
(also known as JJs), beside the northern lor (most are concentrated Just around an hour’s drive from
SkyTrain stop of Mo Chit, boasts over around Sukhumvit Road Bangkok, brash Pattaya is a party
15,000 stalls. and top hotels) run resort with big-name facilities. Its
You’ll find bargain silk scarves, hand- me up silk skirts seedier side has been somewhat
made candles, wood carvings and ornate and blouses to my cleaned up in recent years and it’s
cutlery sets but half the fun is the spectacle. own designs. a well-established favourite with
This is where Thais shop for anything from The classic families who stay at quieter
furniture to pets to plastic fruit. I once even Thailand holiday Jontiem beach and enjoy nearby
spotted a monk choosing a hamster! combines Bangkok attractions such as water parks,
If you prefer the air-conditioned comfort with a beach and go-karting, an Elephant Village
of a mall, you’re spoilt for choice with giant sometimes a third stop and Sriracha Tiger Zoo.
shopping centres catering for trendy teens to in the green and cul- Golfers flock to Pattaya, too,
the well-heeled clustered around Siam tural North. The as there are several quality
Square and surrounding streets. country is also courses nearby.
The great thing about buying anything in often linked with Hua Hin and Cha Am,
Thailand is that it’s very affordable. This is its neighbours on also within driving distance
one of the few places in the world I can enjoy tours of South East of Bangkok, are quiet neigh-
my favourite indulgences, cocktails and spa Asia. A Thailand hol- bouring resorts favoured by
treatments, on a daily basis. While mosquito iday with a side trip the Thai royal family, while


Chic & boutique I The funky Dusit
In recent years,Thailand’s decorative cultural D2 hotel at Pattaya
traditions have been given a twist and the
country has become something of a hotspot
for chic contemporary design – not least in
its accommodation, with attractive new
boutique hotels making a particular splash.
Just some of the stylish offerings include:
G The funky Dusit D2 brand hotels at
Chiang Mai, Pattaya and, soon, Koh Samui
(www.dusit.com).
G Philippe Starck-designed The Yamu, opening
on Phuket this year with a chocolate room
and a recording studio
(www.theyamu.com).
G Back-to-nature and spa-focused Soneva
Kiri by Six Senses, on the island of Koh
Kood in the gulf of Thailand
(www.sixsenses.com).
G Minimalist The Racha on Koh Racha, off
Phuket (www.theracha.com).
G And the cheery, oriental chintz-themed

Dusit D2
Shanghai Mansion, in Bangkok’s Chinatown
(www.shanghaimansion.com).

the large, up-and-coming island of Koh
Thailand facts Chang offers a mountainous interior and
day-trip possibilities around its 50-plus
When to go: neighbouring islands.
Koh Samui is best from June to September and the rest of

Thailand November to March. Thailand’s North
Not everything worth seeing in Thailand
Visa: comes with a sea view. The country’s lush
UK passport holders do not need a visa for stays up to 30 days. and mountainous North is packed full of
adventure and culture.
Getting there: Thailand’s second city, Chiang Mai, is the
Thai Airways (www.thaiairways.co.uk), EVA Air (www.evaair.com), gateway to the North and is famed for its night
British Airways (www.ba.com) and Qantas (www.qantas.com) fly direct. market, handicraft villages and sanctuaries for
You can also go direct to major resorts on charter flights. elephants that once worked in the logging
industry. Farther north, Chiang Rai is a small-
Tour operators: er hub and close to the Golden Triangle where
UK operators featuring Thailand include: Kuoni (www.kuoni.co.uk),Travel Thailand, Laos and Burma meet in scenic
2 (www.travel2.com), Funway Holidays (www.funwayholidays.co.uk), splendour around the Mekong River.
Jasmine Travel (www.jasmineholidays.co.uk), Premier Holidays, You can trek to visit hill tribes in the
(www.premierholidays.co.uk) and Silverbird (www.silverbird.co.uk). North though the tourist path is pretty well-
worn these days. Soft-adventure experiences
Getting around: like mountain biking and white-water raft-
Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com) and Thai Airways ing are also centred in the region as are some
(www.thaiairways.co.uk) have extensive domestic flight networks. good golf courses. To head North in style,
Beat the gridlocked daytime traffic in Bangkok by taking the SkyTrain, take the Eastern & Oriental Express
underground, or river ferries. Iconic three-wheeled tuk-tuks are fun for (www.orient-express.com) from Bangkok
short trips (haggle the price beforehand) but metered taxis (check the to Chiang Mai, or, if you’d rather chill-out
meter is on) are safer and more affordable.Take the less-congested toll somewhere up-and coming, consider the laid

TL
expressways in Bangkok. Cycling tours are offered by Bike & Travel back retreat of Pai in Mae Hong Song
(www.cyclingthailand.com) and Spice Roads (www.spiceroads.com). province.
Ferry services and cheap long-tail boat taxis operate to the islands.
A travel journalist for over a decade,
Tourist information: Debbie Ward writes for numerous
Tourism Authority of Thailand: call 0870 900 2007 or visit publications. She has a wardrobe full of Thai
clothing from her many Thailand visits.
www.tourismthailand.co.uk


The Travel & Leisure Magazine Thailand Feature

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The Travel & Leisure Magazine Thailand Feature