A beginner's guide to fine Swiss watchmaking. This short overlook includes: history, modern business, glossary, brand stories, complication hierarchy and importance of service.

1. Swiss Made
Success story

2. Artem Skachkov
Marketing manager at Noblesse

3. Watch of XXI century
Phone
The most reliable and practical watch in
2013

4. Facts & Figures
Swiss watch industry in facts & figures

5. Swiss watch industry
Switzerland
 Area: 41 284 km²
 Population: 7 700 200 people
 GDP: more than $ 636 billion
 Languages: French, German, Italian,
Romansh
 Government: federal republic
 Districts: 26 cantons
 Capital: Bern

6. Swiss watch industry
Switzerland
 Export: 19 300 mln. EURO
 Produced: 29.8 mln. pieces
 Production centers: cantons Vaud,
Geneve, Neuchatel, Jura

7. Watch sales
7%
15%
18%
81%
60%
10%
7%
2%
Quantity Value
Switzerland Japan Others China
*data from research of Harward Business School, 2010

8. Watch facts
1 mm
Height of Rado ceramic case

9. Watch facts
1 200 m
Waterresistance of Omega watch

10. Watch facts
1 500 parts
Make up Franck Muller movement

11. Watch facts
0,2 sm2
Area of Jaeger-LeCoultre watch

12. Watch facts
10 vibrations
Makes every second balance wheel of
Zenith watch

13. Watch facts
840 Co
Temperature at the oven to produce
Ulysse Nardin dial

14. Professional language
Basic terms of fine watchmaking

15. Watch types
Mechanical Quartz

16. Watch types
Self-wound Hand-wound

17. Watch types
Self-wound Hand-wound

18. Watch types
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19. Watch dictionary
Movement
IMPORTANT! Terms and names

20. Watch dictionary
Escapement
A mechanism that is fitted
between the gears and
the regulating organ to
suspend the gears' motion
at regular intervals
Pendulum

21. Watch dictionary
Balance
A circular, moving part which
oscillates on its rotational
axis
Heart

22. Watch dictionary
Bezel
A ring around the case
middle that secures
the crystal.
Top ring

23. Watch dictionary
Guilloche
A decorative engraving
technique in which a precise
intricate repetitive pattern
or design is mechanically
engraved into an underlying
material with fine detail
Decoration

24. Watch dictionary
Calibre
A synonym of size. Used to
denote the layout and
dimensions of the different
movement
pillars, wheels, barrel, etc.
Movement

25. Watch dictionary
Jewels
An international term for the
jewels (rubies) in a watch
movement that are used as
bearings for pivots to reduce
friction.
Bearings

26. Watch dictionary
Vibrations
Movement of a pendulum or
oscillating body between
two extreme positions.
An oscillation ("tick-tock")
equals two vibrations
Tick-Tock

27. Watch dictionary
Rotor
A semi-circular disc that
freely rotates with each
movement of the arm
to automatically wind
the mainspring.
Winding

28. Watch dictionary
Chronograph
A watch combined with a
mechanism which can be
started, stopped and
returned to zero on demand
to measure intervals of time
Stop-watch

29. Watch dictionary
Chronometer
A high-precision watch displaying
seconds whose movement has
been controlled over a period
of several days, in different
positions and at different
temperatures, by an official
neutral body
Precise watch

30. History
From home manufacture to stock exchange

31. Watch history
Marine chronometer
Watches with gyroscope

32. Watch history
John Calvin
 Birth: 10 july 1509
 Education: theology, law
 Reforms:
 Creation of city council
 Death penalty
 Ideas:
 “Life at the wealth, death in
the poverty”
 “Denial of decorations”

33. Watch history
Geography
 Area: mountains of Alps and Jura
 Average temperature: from +4 to
+6
 Precipitation: up 2 000 sm/year
 Language: French
 Cantons: Geneva, Vaud, Neuchatel

34. Watch history
Workshop
Home-based production of watch
components

35. Watch history
Manufacture
Industrial watch production

36. Watch history
Evolution
From pocket to wrist watch

37. Watch history
Rapid Development factors
 Innovative progress in:
 Aviation
 Diving
 Military
 Engineering
 Pursue of precision
 Coroporate and government orders

38. Watch history
Quartz crisis
Apparent death of Swiss watch industry

39. Watch history
Quartz crisis
 Quartz watches:
 Battery powered
 Highest precision
 No winding
 Digital analogue display
 Fuel crisis:
 USD value fall
 CHF value growth
 Results:
 Production fall from 90 000
pieces to 33 000 pieces

40. Watch history
Gunter
Franck Muller
Blumlein
Fanck Muller
Richemont
Ernest Nicolas Hayek Rolf W.
Schneyder Schneider
SWATCH
Breitling Ulysse Nardin
Renaissance
Founding fathers of new Swiss watch
industry

41. Founding fathers
Gunter Blumlein
• Life: 1944-2001
• Company: LMH (in 1981) – later a
grew into Richemont Group
• Brands: IWC, Jaeger-
LeCoultre, A.Lange & Sohne
• Gave second life to A.Lange&Sohne
• “Savior” of Jaeger-LeCoultre from
bankruptcy

42. Founding fathers
Franck Muller
• Life: 1958-present
• Company: Franck Muller Group
(founded in 1991)
• Master of Complications
• Watchmaker (Ecole d'Horlogerie de
Genève)
• Co-Founder and partner – Vartan
Sirmakes

43. Founding fathers
Nicolas Hayer
• Life: 1928-2010
• Company: Swatch Group (from
1985)
• Brands:
Breguet, Blancpain, Omega, Jaquet
Droz, Longines, Rado, Tissot, Hamilt
on, Swatch, CK
• Engineer, 2 PHDs
• Creator of SMART car
• “King” of Swiss watches
• 232nd wealthiest person

44. Founding fathers
Rolf W. Schnyder
• Life: 1935-2011
• Company: Ulysse Nardin (bought in
1983)
• Traveler, athlete
• Most of the life spent in Asia
(Malaysia, Thailand, China, Vietnam
)
• Worked with Ludwig Oechslin

45. Founding fathers
Ernest Schneider
• Life: 1921-present
• Company: Breitling (bought in
1979)
• Professional pilot
• Watchmaker and microelectronics
engineer
• Non-public person
• Lead Breitling to manufacture status

46. Watch history
Manufacture
Modern production site

47. Brands
TOP watch brands

48. Watch brands

49. Watch brands
Breguet
 Founded: 1775
 Founder: Abraham-
Louis Breget
 Brand meaning:
Founder’s last name
 Town: Valle-de-Joux

50. Watch brands
Achievements
 Invented tourbillon
 Invented hairspring
 Created dial guilloche
 Produced first wrist
watch

51. Watch brands
Hublot
 Founded: 1980
 Founder: Carlo Crocco
 Brand meaning: in
French bull`s eye
 Town: Nyon (suburbs of
Geneva)

52. Watch brands
Achievements
 First watch on rubber
bracelet
 Proficency in material
combination
(titanium, ceramics, etc.
)

53. Watch brands
IWC
 Founded: 1868
 Founder: Florentine
Ariosto Jones
 Brand meaning: short
for International Watch
Company
 Town: Schaffhausen

54. Watch brands
Achievements
 The only watch
company in German
speaking Switzerland
 Masculine brand
 Programmed calendar
for 500 years
 Classical pilot watches

55. Watch brands
Jaeger-LeCoultre
 Founded: 1833
 Founder: Antoine
LeCoultre
 Brand meaning: names
of partners (Edmond
Jaeger and Jaques-
Davide LeCoultre)
 Town: Valle-de-Joux

56. Watch brands
Achievements
 Creator of
milionometer
 Full cycle
manufacturing
 Inventor of
gyrotourbillon
 Development of
Extreme LAB watch

57. Watch brands
Omega
 Founded: 1848
 Founder: Louis Brandt
 Brand meaning: fro
calibre named Omega
(idea of perfectness)
 Town: Biel/Bienne

58. Watch brands
Achievements
 Watch of Apollo 11
astronauts
 Olympics’ official
timekeeper
 James Bond watch
 Development of Co-
Axial escapment

59. Watch brands
Patek Philippe
 Founded: 1839
 Founders: Antoni Patek
and Fransua Chapek
 Brand meaning: name of
partners (Antoni Patek
and Jean-Adrien Philippe
 Town: Plan-les-Ouates

60. Watch brands
Achievements
 Inventor of crown
 #1 at antiquarian
auctions
 Champion of precision

61. Watch brands
Romain Jerome
 Founded: 2004
 Founder: NA
 Brand meaning: NA
 Town: Geneva

62. Watch brands
Achievements
 Watches with Titanic
parts
 Watches with Moon
dust and parts of Apollo
11
 Developer of capsule
collection concept
 Watches for
professional golfers

63. Watch brands
Rolex
 Founded: 1908
 Founder: Hans Wilsdorf
 Brand meaning: NA
 Town: Biel/Bienne

64. Watch brands
Achievements
 Waterresistance record
 Largest watch
production
 First automatic watch
 First certified
chronometer

65. Watch brands
Ulysse Nardin
 Founded: 1846
 Founder: Ulysse Nardin
 Brand meaning: name
of the founder
 Town: Le Lockle and
La Chaux-de-Fonds

66. Watch brands
Achievements
 Most reliable marine
chronometers
 Most complicated
watches – Guiness book
of records
 The only jaquemarts
watches
 Watches with silicon
parts

67. Watch brands
Vacheron Constantin
 Founded: 1755
 Founder: Jean-Mark
Vacheron
 Brand meaning: name
of partners (Jaques-
Barthélemy Vacheron
and François
Constantin)
 Town: Plan-les-Ouates

68. Watch brands
Achievements
 Most ancient
manufacture
 First antimagnetic
watch

69. Business
Watch holdings, fairs and rewards

70. Watch business
Franck Muller Group
Rolex Group LVMH
Richemont Group Swatch Group
Holding companies
Largest conglomerates

71. Watch business
FMG
Franck Muller Group
• Fonded: 1991
• Brands:
• Franck Muller, CVSTOS, Pierre
Kunz, Backes&Strauss, Martin
Braun, Smalto, European
Watch
Company, Rodolphe, Roberto
Cavalli, Pierre Michel Golay
• President: Vartan Sirmakes

72. Watch business
LVMH
Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy
• Founded: 1987
• Brands:
• Zenith, Hublot, TAG
Heuer, Dior, BVLGARI, Chaume
t
• President: Bernard Arnault

73. Watch business
Richemont Group
(ex-LMH: Les Manufactures
Horlogeres)
• Founded: 1986
• Brands:
• A.Lange&Sohne, Dunhill, Bau
me&Mercier, Cartier, IWC, Jae
ger-LeCoultre, Roger
Dubuis, Montblanc, Panerai, Pi
aget, Vacheron
Constantin, Van
Cleef&Arpels, Ralph Lauren
• President: Johann Peter Rupert

74. Watch business
Rolex Group
• Founded: 1946
• Brands:
• Rolex, Tudor
• President: Gian Riccardo Marini

75. Watch business
Swatch Group
(ex-SMH: Swiss Corporation for
Microelectronics and Watchmaking Industries)
• Founded: 1985
• Brands:
• Breguet, Blancpain, Omega, Ja
quet
Droz, Longines, Rado, Tissot, H
amilton, Balmain, Certina, Mid
o, Endura, Swatch, Calvin
Klein, Flik Flak, Leon Hatot
• President: Neyla Hayek
• CEO: Nick Hayek

76. Watch fairs
Baselworld

77. Watch fairs
SIHH
Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie

78. Watch fairs
WPHH
World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie

79. Price
Watch complications scale

80. Watch complications
Small second

81. Watch complications
Power reserve

82. Watch complications
Date

83. Watch complications
Big date

84. Watch complications
Day of the week

85. Watch complications
Month

86. Watch complications
Moonphase

87. Watch complications
Retrograde hands

88. Watch complications
Chronograph

89. Watch complications
Dual Time

90. Watch complications
GMT

91. Watch complications
Alarm

92. Watch complications
Skeletonized dial

93. Watch complications
Annual calendar

94. Watch complications
Perpetual calendar

95. Watch complications
Minute repeater

96. Watch complications
Jaquemarts

97. Watch complications
Tourbillon

98. Watch price
Materials
 Platinum
 Gold
 Titanium
 Carbon fibre
 Steel
 Composite materials
 Rare materials

99. After sales service
Taking care of Swiss watches

100. Watch service
Atmos
The only perpetual watch

101. Watch service
Reasons
 Strokes
 Temperature (oil inside)
 Water (waterristance
rules)
 Scratches
 Time (full service)

102. Watch service
Service center
Repairs are made at certified service center
only

103. Watch service
Watchwinder
Taking care of automatic watches

104. Watch service
Leather strap
Service period up to 1.5 years

105. Watch waterresistance
< 30m (3am) • No water contact
30m - 50m • Minimum water contact - hand washed with watches on
50m - 100m • Some contact with water -car washed with watches on
100m - 200m • Swimming with watches on
200m - 500m • Active leisure on water with watches on
>500m (50am) • Diving with watches on

106. Watch waterresistance
Crown
Never use in water!

107. Thank you!

108. Swiss Done
Q&As