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Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Project Description   Panel to the side of a small cabinet. This will be fitted in a frame of beech (Fagussylvatica). The veneer is of  Honduras mahogany (Swieteniamacrophylla), the wood I will use for the drawer fronts. The scientific name is very important to know with that wood we go to work. The common names vary according to countries, regions, provinces, populations, warehouses or professionals. Besides in this case they exist quantity of substitutes to which are also called Mahogany, being the most known the "African Mahogany" (Khayasenegalensis). The Honduras mahogany that I will use is genuine mahogany, although the mythical is the Mahogany  of Cuba  (Swieteniamahagoni),  this last has been the most appreciated wood in cabinetmaking, but in the actuality  practically has disappeared. Once I went to buy hard maple and I asked the salesman: It’s Acer saccharum or Acer saccharinum? Still I remember his amazement face!
Woodworking for amateursVeneering(Small projects) Materials and tools
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Wood to use   Mahogany (Swieteniamacrophylla) Veneer of 0.6 mm. Ilomba (Pycnanthusangolensis) 16 mm plywood. Is often popularly called "marine plywood" the veneer  that form it are bonded with phenolic glue, that do it resistant to moisture. In the Manuel Soler’s website:  http://www.xiloteca.com/  you can find related more than three thousand wood species, with his scientific and common names.
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Interest rules   • The board larger than the panel. • The veneer larger than the board. In this case, we can appreciate that a side of the board protrudes  to  the veneer. It doesn't  fulfill   the second rule of the billed, but I take one that I had in that size-  At the end it was us useful, being able to cut it when we want.
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Gluing supplies   Glue Varnish roller Masking tape Transparent polyethylene film Glue: The more classic woodworkers will use hide glue  in flakes, for afterwards melt it. The more restless will use contact adhesive. The more practical the "white glue" (PVA) . But I have chosen a special veneering glue.   Masking tape: I have choose  the blue, because it adheres  less than the yellow, the risk that  damage  the wood is minimum.   Transparent film: Yes, that! Yes, that! The one who we have in the kitchen.
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Surface to glue We delimit the surface to glue. It’s necessary to avoid apply glue in the no covered part by the veneer. Afterwards it would cause us problems to the hour of press it.
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Surface to glue   We apply glue to the board. The special glue for veneer allows us work calm.
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Surface to glue   With the varnish roller we extend the glue. The use of the roller facilitates a lot this  work. I learned this practical gluing method watching a video of Steve Latta, a renowned teacher of woodworking in the USA. Veryentertaining!
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Surface to glue   We must achieve  a uniform coat. As you can see, the glue covers the whole of the surface to veneer.
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Trick   If we wrap well the roller with transparent film, we will avoid that it dry during a month at least.
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Gluing   We put the veneer on the board already glued. The veneer is placed so that it protrudes by as many edges as possible.. As you can see, it looks a little of glue. No problem!
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Warning   We must avoid that the board will bond to that we use for pressing. The polyethylene film prevents bleeding through the open grain, our panel can be bond to the board use for pressing. Be careful! Este truco lo he visto en … ¡ no me acuerdo!
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Pressing Tools   1 - Plywood of equal or greater size than the future panel.   2 -  Strong strips, in this case they are of beech (Fagussylvatica).   3 - Bench Holddowns.   4 - Bar clamps. 4 3 2 1
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Pressing   Now, we press the panel between a board and the workbench surface. Pressing time depends of the glue used. Consult the product label.
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Pressing   If we do not have a workbench or some holddowns, this is a good alternative: the panel is pressed between two thick boards.   We will use six bar clamps  and six  wooden strips.   Here I've used quick clamps, but I prefer the traditional bar clamps.
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) After the pressing time, the board is thus ready for the next steps.
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 1st part   In this section we proceed to remove the A1 and A2 excess. A2 A1
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 1st part (Tools)   Mallet Chisel The chisel very sharpened and better when wider, because we will do fewer cuts and we will get a better finish. In this task I used one of 40 mm, about 1 ½”. This is the link of my friend’s video Julio Alonso, where you can see the better mode I know to sharpen a chisel. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fG1VjV-ZtOA
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 1st  part   Place the blade on the remainder. Pressed the blade with your index finger against the edge of the board, so the cut can be flatter. With thumb and index finger control the verticality of the tool.
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 1st  part   A blow with the mallet. A workbench covered with wounds, is a sign of experience, but the wrinkles on the face too. For this reason I prefer to look after it, within an order, for it has time to grow old.   I have placed the cut surface over a board,  plywood of course, I keep it for these cases.
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 1st part Here we can see the surplus as  follows. Blow by blow we will finish the edge.
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 2nd part (Tools): Top table saw. 1 I will use a small top table saw, the cutting height is just over 2 cm (about 3/8”), so it is suitable for small projects and modeling.  Nothing else! I've had to adapt a homemade fence (1) to extensible Guide (2). Of origin it can only make cuts about 10 cm  (about 4”) width, in this case we need 24.6 cm  (about  9  11/16”). 2
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 2nd part  With the chisel, we have cut the excess  in the cross direction of the grain. Sides  A1 & A2. With the saw, we will do it  in the right direction of the grain. Sides B1 and B2. B2 A1 A2 B1
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 2nd part  As you can see, on this edge the veneer protrudes above and under, so with the chisel we don’t work well, on the first face we will work with the tool angle and would not be straight edge. B1
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 2nd part  You can see that with a cut removes the two remaining. B2 B1 By having a edge without veneer (B2), we have a perfect support on the fence and therefore a straight sawing.
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 2nd part    When we will remove the extra edge (B2), the panel will be the final width.
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 2nd part  We sawed flat on the side B1. B1
Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) END  OF  TASK Here is our finished panel.

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Veneering blogg

  • 1. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Project Description   Panel to the side of a small cabinet. This will be fitted in a frame of beech (Fagussylvatica). The veneer is of Honduras mahogany (Swieteniamacrophylla), the wood I will use for the drawer fronts. The scientific name is very important to know with that wood we go to work. The common names vary according to countries, regions, provinces, populations, warehouses or professionals. Besides in this case they exist quantity of substitutes to which are also called Mahogany, being the most known the "African Mahogany" (Khayasenegalensis). The Honduras mahogany that I will use is genuine mahogany, although the mythical is the Mahogany of Cuba (Swieteniamahagoni), this last has been the most appreciated wood in cabinetmaking, but in the actuality practically has disappeared. Once I went to buy hard maple and I asked the salesman: It’s Acer saccharum or Acer saccharinum? Still I remember his amazement face!
  • 2. Woodworking for amateursVeneering(Small projects) Materials and tools
  • 3. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Wood to use   Mahogany (Swieteniamacrophylla) Veneer of 0.6 mm. Ilomba (Pycnanthusangolensis) 16 mm plywood. Is often popularly called "marine plywood" the veneer that form it are bonded with phenolic glue, that do it resistant to moisture. In the Manuel Soler’s website: http://www.xiloteca.com/ you can find related more than three thousand wood species, with his scientific and common names.
  • 4. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Interest rules   • The board larger than the panel. • The veneer larger than the board. In this case, we can appreciate that a side of the board protrudes to the veneer. It doesn't fulfill the second rule of the billed, but I take one that I had in that size- At the end it was us useful, being able to cut it when we want.
  • 5. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Gluing supplies   Glue Varnish roller Masking tape Transparent polyethylene film Glue: The more classic woodworkers will use hide glue in flakes, for afterwards melt it. The more restless will use contact adhesive. The more practical the "white glue" (PVA) . But I have chosen a special veneering glue.   Masking tape: I have choose the blue, because it adheres less than the yellow, the risk that damage the wood is minimum.   Transparent film: Yes, that! Yes, that! The one who we have in the kitchen.
  • 6. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Surface to glue We delimit the surface to glue. It’s necessary to avoid apply glue in the no covered part by the veneer. Afterwards it would cause us problems to the hour of press it.
  • 7. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Surface to glue   We apply glue to the board. The special glue for veneer allows us work calm.
  • 8. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Surface to glue   With the varnish roller we extend the glue. The use of the roller facilitates a lot this work. I learned this practical gluing method watching a video of Steve Latta, a renowned teacher of woodworking in the USA. Veryentertaining!
  • 9. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Surface to glue   We must achieve a uniform coat. As you can see, the glue covers the whole of the surface to veneer.
  • 10. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Trick   If we wrap well the roller with transparent film, we will avoid that it dry during a month at least.
  • 11. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Gluing   We put the veneer on the board already glued. The veneer is placed so that it protrudes by as many edges as possible.. As you can see, it looks a little of glue. No problem!
  • 12. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Warning   We must avoid that the board will bond to that we use for pressing. The polyethylene film prevents bleeding through the open grain, our panel can be bond to the board use for pressing. Be careful! Este truco lo he visto en … ¡ no me acuerdo!
  • 13. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Pressing Tools   1 - Plywood of equal or greater size than the future panel.   2 - Strong strips, in this case they are of beech (Fagussylvatica).   3 - Bench Holddowns.   4 - Bar clamps. 4 3 2 1
  • 14. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Pressing   Now, we press the panel between a board and the workbench surface. Pressing time depends of the glue used. Consult the product label.
  • 15. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Pressing   If we do not have a workbench or some holddowns, this is a good alternative: the panel is pressed between two thick boards.   We will use six bar clamps and six wooden strips.   Here I've used quick clamps, but I prefer the traditional bar clamps.
  • 16. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) After the pressing time, the board is thus ready for the next steps.
  • 17. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 1st part   In this section we proceed to remove the A1 and A2 excess. A2 A1
  • 18. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 1st part (Tools)   Mallet Chisel The chisel very sharpened and better when wider, because we will do fewer cuts and we will get a better finish. In this task I used one of 40 mm, about 1 ½”. This is the link of my friend’s video Julio Alonso, where you can see the better mode I know to sharpen a chisel. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fG1VjV-ZtOA
  • 19. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 1st part   Place the blade on the remainder. Pressed the blade with your index finger against the edge of the board, so the cut can be flatter. With thumb and index finger control the verticality of the tool.
  • 20. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 1st part   A blow with the mallet. A workbench covered with wounds, is a sign of experience, but the wrinkles on the face too. For this reason I prefer to look after it, within an order, for it has time to grow old.   I have placed the cut surface over a board, plywood of course, I keep it for these cases.
  • 21. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 1st part Here we can see the surplus as follows. Blow by blow we will finish the edge.
  • 22. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 2nd part (Tools): Top table saw. 1 I will use a small top table saw, the cutting height is just over 2 cm (about 3/8”), so it is suitable for small projects and modeling. Nothing else! I've had to adapt a homemade fence (1) to extensible Guide (2). Of origin it can only make cuts about 10 cm (about 4”) width, in this case we need 24.6 cm (about 9 11/16”). 2
  • 23. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 2nd part With the chisel, we have cut the excess in the cross direction of the grain. Sides A1 & A2. With the saw, we will do it in the right direction of the grain. Sides B1 and B2. B2 A1 A2 B1
  • 24. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 2nd part As you can see, on this edge the veneer protrudes above and under, so with the chisel we don’t work well, on the first face we will work with the tool angle and would not be straight edge. B1
  • 25. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 2nd part You can see that with a cut removes the two remaining. B2 B1 By having a edge without veneer (B2), we have a perfect support on the fence and therefore a straight sawing.
  • 26. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 2nd part   When we will remove the extra edge (B2), the panel will be the final width.
  • 27. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) Removing the excess 2nd part We sawed flat on the side B1. B1
  • 28. Woodworkingfor amateursVeneering(Small projects) END OF TASK Here is our finished panel.