An inspirational, visual presentation of all the hottest ladies fashion trends to look out for this Autumn Winter 2010 at The Bentall Centre.

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IntroductIon monochromatic pastels while others use to move effortlessly with the body, bring tightly woven felts, rich structured
A current of minimalism pumps through multiple pastels on soft cashmeres. The back the joy of dressing up although wools and heavily starched cottons. This
fashion’s main vein this season, though key here is soft colours on soft fabrics, here, we are rummaging through a look is all about embracing the austerity
we do see interesting deviations from worn to skip through miserable weather repertoire of men’s clothing rather of minimalism and showing that less
the beat of this austere black pulse. with subdued optimism. than our usual dressing-up box. Details can be more. Fashions default position;
There are, as always, two fashion camps: Think: Marshmallows include waistcoats worn with jackets, safe, wearable and alive with structural
those that know it is Autumn/Winter Look: Dusty and pure pressed centre seams, pocket-watches, elements.
and have a sense of the public’s mood Buy: A powder-coloured ties, cravats, handkerchiefs and for the Think: Architecture
and those who are trapped in a fashion cashmere jumper. brave, a painted on moustache. Enjoy Look: Minimal and edgy
fantasy and have no idea which way is the escapism... Buy: A beige column skirt.
up. Broadly, this season can be broken in 3/ leather me uP Think: Like a man
half; the saintly, commercial, wearable The obscene over use of leather this Look: Like a woman 8/ droP the waIst
and disciplined collections and the mad, season is so all encompassing that it is Buy: A tailored three-piece trouser suit. The short, narrow silhouette makes an
bad, glorious and strange. Phoebe Philo reticent of a time when no other fabric erogenous zone of the elongated waist
described her Autumn/Winter collection existed. Couplets of leather skirts and 6/ stePFord wIFe and allows dresses and skirts to blossom
as “strong, powerful, reduced”, which leather jackets have a subversive effect; Neat, dressy daywear worn by out below the nipped-in detailing. The
could be the mantra for the both sexual and militaristic. Classic immaculately groomed women who shorter skirts, some pelmet-like in
entire season. shapes are curved and carved into pay a little too much attention to detail their width, attempt to recreate all the
extraordinary pieces of art side by side and thereby erase their uniqueness gawkiness of Olive Oyl, with none of her
1/ Femme Fatale with offerings of protective and warming with convention. These women are innocence. Here we have a trend linked
Focused, direct and sexy, these women elements. S&M leathers constructed to eschewing fashion to live in a time warp only by detail and a move south of the
in black with red lips or red with black get you excited about the cold. – but fashion has caught up with them. belt. The modernity of this look comes
lips have an austerity and shadowy air Think: Gestapo Details include beehives, hand-cream from the bell shape or explosion that
that is both dangerous and exciting. Look: As if you are about to pilot a [I imagine] and the new length skirt occurs below the dropped band and the
Marching like warriors, they pound propeller plane in 1953 that hovers just below the knee with a insouciance of the wearer.
towards you with purpose and poise, Buy: A long line leather coat. demure drape. Subdued colours and an Think: Twiggy
even sill they have a forceful, fierce element of inappropriateness of occasion Look: Effortlessly cool
energy. The key to this look is the depth 4/ tall taIls also beget this trend, as if they are Buy: A drop-waisted mini in a
of colour, what some are calling an The cut of the moment is short at the about to do the gardening wearing gold structured fabric.
‘exploration of black’, showing off cuts front and long at the back, swooping brocade Capri pants and
and textures rather than colours or into a gentle curve as it goes. A typical three-inch heels. 9/ alexander mcQueen
digital images. Cut low to reveal vital dinner jacket-tail worn on atypical Think: Like a domestic goddess Powerful, ethereal and sublime describes
body parts or draped to kiss and cling jackets. This elegant line is having a Look: Polished to perfection Lee McQueen’s last exhibition of 16
to curves. rebirth in womenswear and will eclipse Buy: Hairspray and a new length outfits. Shown in silence to a private
Think: Film Noir meets Jessica Rabbit the Boyfriend jacket this season. We see pencil skirt. and select audience of editors, in an
Look: Dangerous and provocative parkas, ruffled styles, classic double ornate and intimate setting. This sombre
Buy: A new little black dress. breasted blazers, thick coats, trench 7/ column on atmosphere was not reflective of the
coats and bouclé versions. ‘Strict’, ‘stark’, ‘severe’, ‘serious’, clothes which are a light and elegant
2/ Pastel Power Think: Penguin ‘disciplined’ and ‘monastic’ are the rendering of Mediaeval Empresses and
Delicate dainty and powdery, these Look: Polished and purposeful terms being used to describe this Dark Age Madonnas. They are also
candyfloss colours pique our interest Buy: Swallow-tailed jacket. monolithic trend. The clean lines and littered with references to his personal
as they dance through the dreary black lack of embellishment is typical of a history. Handcrafted or hand-loomed,
ensembles that mark many a winter 5/ cross-dressIng back-to-basics approach, clothes with the fabrics are perfectly cut and tailored
runway. A charming visual surprise that Balance, ballast, basic menswear purpose and function – not fluff. An immaculately, rich with his creativity
has a warming effect on the soul. This reinterpreted into credible girls clothing. indulgence too in non-colours such as and showmanship.
escapism from the hefty weight of winter Double-breasted navy two-pieces are black, white, beige and cream compound
weather is energetic in its lightness brilliantly simple and utterly timeless. the simplicity. There is also an aversion
and sweetness. Some enjoy simple Superfine wools and cashmere, woven to curves and layers, think instead of

4. 1
FEMME
FATALE
sexually
charged,
assertive
red lipped
women
out on the
prowl.
Antonio Berardi
Emporio Armani Alberta Ferretti

5. Alberta Ferretti Christian Dior
Donna Karan
Elie Saab Christopher Kane

6. Chanel Gareth Pugh Givenchy Yves Saint Laurent
Loewe

7. Narciso Rodriguez
Carmen Marc Valvo
A.F. Vandevorst Paul Smith

8. 2
PASTEL
POWER
delicate
summer
colours
divert
from
the dark
drama of
winter.
Marni Balenciaga Osman
Balenciaga

9. Giles Decon
Christian Dior Louis Vuitton
Marc Jacobs
Vivienne Westwood

10. Giorgio Armani Gucci Diane von Furstenberg Diane von Furstenberg Jonathan Saunders

11. 3
LEATHER
ME uP
aviator
chic, in a
gestapo
meets
garbo
leather-
off. Celine Celine
Gareth Pugh

12. Giles Deacon Christian Dior
Gareth Pugh
Burberry Prorsum
Haider Ackermann

13. Christian Dior Philosophy
Prada
Loewe

14. 4
COLuMN
ON
minimalsim,
beige
and doric
lines find
companions
in similarly
shaped
models.
Chloé

15. Giorgio Armani Giambattista Valli Gucci
Emporio Armani Giles Deacon

16. Michael Kors Stella McCartney Michael Kors Todd Lynn
Gucci

17. 5
CROSS
DRESSING
masculine
attitude &
clothing
is cut close
to the
female Hermes
form. Chloé
Hermes

18. Derek Lam
Givenchy
Zac Posen Kenzo Kenzo
Balmain
Michael Kors

19. Akris Julien Macdonald
Rag & Bone
Dolce & Gabbana
Bottega Veneta
Vivienne Westwood

20. 6
TALL
TAILS
tuxedo cuts
& swallow-
tail finishes
add new
flourish to
coats &
jackets. Celine
Alberta Ferretti

21. Chanel Christian Dior Rue du Mail
Byblos
Valentino

22. Loewe Jean Paul Gaultier Byblos Matthew Williamson

23. 7
DROP THE
WAIST
low lying
waist
bands look
drop dead
gorgeous.
Miu Miu Giles Deacon

24. Giorgio Armani
Giambattista Valli
Fendi
Giambattista Valli

25. Rue du Mail
Alberta Ferretti
Rue du Mail
Brian Reyes Miu Miu

26. 8
STEPFORD
WIFE
submissive
& docile
clothes on
women who
are
anything
but.
Oscar de la Renta Rochas

27. Oscar de la Renta Louis Vuitton Oscar de la Renta
Jason Wu Dolce & Gabbana

28. Dries Van Noten Yves Saint Laurent Prada Victoria Beckham Giles Deacon

29. 9
s
e n’
d
ue An
cQ st
m st Alexander McQueen’s final collection
lA

30. 1920’s Chinese wallpaper as a
Saggy knitted cardigan
silk tabard with knitted tights
and merengue skirt look
and slouchy sheepskin boots
mismatched and dreary.
work as well as ice cream and
pickles.
10
THE BAD
creative
droughts
& inflated
egos make
these outfits
less than
desirable.
Akris
Louis Vuitton
The Rorschach test stain
on this matching two
piece draws the eye to
all the wrong places and
lacks any elegance. Paul & Joe

31. How not to do the column of
beige this season.
Rochas Chanel Balmain
Several designers tried this
torso of ombré look, none with
quite as little success as Karl Versace
Largafeld.
Cheap and nasty these looks
smack more of cheap than
chic.