Obliphica Color Training

COLOR TRAINING
PERMANENT CREAM COLOR BRILLIANT COLOR AND LONG LASTING SHINE EXCLUSIVE FOR HAIRDRESSERS

Content
• Information about the brand – pg3
• General Information – pg5
• First coloration – pg10
• Hilifting – pg12
• Rivertive Pigmentation – pg16
• Semi permanent color – pg18
• Color Circle – pg19
• Lightening – pg28
• Color Theory – pg29
• Troubleshooting – pg38

Color Training August 2010
2

German-Swiss Brand
Exclusive for professionals
Since 2008 in Germany
1999 started in Switzerland

Obliphica Cream Colors offers:
High coverage & extended durability
Pronounced color fastness
Effective shine & care

3

Ingredients
•Aqua, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Propylen Glycol, Ammonia, Lanolin Alcohol, Paraffinum Liquidum,
Buxus Chinensis, Cera Alba, Silk Amino Acids, EDTA, Sodium Sulfite, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate,
Perfum, Anisyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Saliycylate, Citronellol, Coumarin, Farnesol,
Geraniol, Linalol

•May contain: Toluylene-2,5-Diamin Sulfate, Resorcinol, m-Aminophenol,
p-Aminophenol, o-Aminophenol, 1,5-Naphthalenediol,
2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol HCl, 1-Naphthol, 4-Amino-2-Hydroxytoluene, N,N-Bis(2-Hydroxy-ethyl)-p-
Phenylendiamin Sulfate,
2-Amino-6-Chloro-4-Nitrophenol, 4-Amino-m-cresol, p-Phenylendiamine, HC Red 3, 3-Methyl-4-
Aminophenol, 2-Amino-3-Hydroxypyridine,
2,6-Dihydroxyethyl-Aminotoluene, 2-Amino-4-Hydroxyethylaminoanisol, 4-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-3-
Nitrophenol

•3 Component – System:
Care Phase, Oil Phase, Carrier Phase with pigments

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General Information about
Ingredients

• Ammonia ensures better penetration into the cuticle
• Carrier Phase guarantees an even supply of pigments
• Care Phase gives softness and sheen
• Special ingredients, like Jojoba oil, Beeswax and Silk
proteins
• Oil Phase encapsules the hair shaft and holds the
pigments in the cuticle.

5

General Information
Production

• Made in Germany
• Guidelines of Good-Manufacturing-Practice (GMP)
• Production with state-of-the-art technology and well
educated professional staff
• Quality control prior and during production process
• Finished products are subject to a systematic quality
control

6

General Application

• Do not wash hair prior to treatment
• Perform sensibilisation test
• Protect body and clothes by appropriate
measures (gloves, apron, wrap)
• Use colors under metal free conditions!

7

General Application
• Mix Cream Colors with Creme-Oxidizer to a
homogenous mixture
• Apply mixture with a brush strand by strand
down to the ends
• Avoid contact with scalp
• Chose quantity of product mixture depending
on the length of the hair to be colored

8

Warning and Security Advice
• Perform skin sensibilisation test behind the ear of the
customer
• Dye hair of customers only if they do not show any
allergic symptoms after 48 hours
• Only for professional use
• Product can cause allergic reactions
• At eye contact rinse with plenty of water
• Not for use on eyebrows and eyelashes
• Wear proper gloves
• Keep out of reach of children
• Do not use on injured scalp (scratches, scrape)
• Do not use after a perm has been applied
• Bleeding and stains on textiles are possible

9

First Coloration

General mixing ratio Obliphica Cream colors with cream oxidizer: 1:1

20 Vol. / 6% Oxidizer => color tone on tone, 1 tone lightening or 1 tone darker
coloring

30 Vol. / 9% Oxidizer => lightening of 2-3 tones

10

Application time at global tinting:

tone on tone or 1 tone darker: apply Cream Colors immediately from hairline to
hair-ends – let stay on hair for 30-40 minutes.
Lightening: apply Cream Colors first on to the hair lengths and hair-ends, after 20
minutes lay on Cream Colors to the hairline for additional 30-40 minutes.

Tip:

Use one step higher concentrated Cream Oxidizer in order to boost color intensity at
hair lengths and hair-ends! (overoxidation)

11

Hilift

• General mixing ratio Obliphica Cream Colors with Cream Oxidizer: 1:2

• with 9% => lightening up to 3 tones

• with 12% => lightening up to 4-5 tones

12

Hilift
The steps of the lightening tinting:

•Hilift 4-5 tones 1 : 2 step 5
12%

•Hilift 3-4 tones 1 : 2 step 4 Special Blond
9%

12%

9%
Normal coloring 1 : 1 step 1
Darker/Tone-on-tone/Hilift for 1 tone 6%

13

Hilifting
Blonde coloration with Special Blonde Shades

Special Blonde Range of starting color Effect/ Color Result
Shades
12N Light blonde to light brown Lightest color results without
additional hilift, especially suitable for
dying of strands
12.1A Medium blonde to dark Slight ash reflection
blonde
12.1A Light brown to dark blonde Light blonde
12.3G Dark brown to medium Warm natural gold reflection
blonde

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Hilifting

Special Blonde Range of starting color Effect/ Color Result
Shades
12.7NW Medium blonde to light Light blonde with beige-brownish
brown reflection, good coverage
12.7NW Dark blonde Brown reflection on lightest blonde
12.81P Medium blonde to light Blonde with pearl reflection, covers
brown orange shade very good
12.81P Dark blonde Light ash blonde
12.89BP Medium blonde to dark Pearl reflection, covers orange shade
blonde
12.89BP Dark blonde Pearl reflection

15

Rivertive Pigmentation
•For outgrown, lightened hair or to remove lightened hair strands :
The natural color tone will be maintained

•Pigmentation by following working steps:

- apply 1 part color + 2 parts soft conditioner (without oxidizer)

- Afterward apply semi-permanent/color – time of application approx 30 minutes

- Treat afterwards with Acid Balancer and Shampoo Color

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Rivertive Pigmentation

•Use Shade 5N for Rivertive Pigmentation of dark blonde

•Use Shade 3N or 4N for Rivertive Pigmentation of light brown
or medium brown

•Use Shade 6.3G or 7.3G for Rivertive Pigmentation for light blonde
or medium blonde

•Work on towel dried hair (natural hair will not take this preparation)

•Afterwards use Obliphica Cream Colors as semi permanant hair color
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Semi permanent color
Instruction of use:
• 1 part Cream Colors + 1 part Cream Oxidizer
volume 6
• If more nourishing treatment is necessary add
Soft Conditioner with Cream Oxidizer volume
10
• Time of application depending on condition
of hair: 20-40 minutes

• Tip: The result will be intensivized when
heat is used during application time

18

Color Circle
Obliphica Color

Natural Ash Golden Mix
Shades Shades Shades Shades

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Natural
2N Shades

3N 4N

5N 6N 7N 8N
20

Natural
Shades

9N 10 N 11 N 12 N

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Ash
Shades
2.1B

6.1 A 7.1 A 8.1 A

9.1 A 10.1 A 11.1 A 12.1 A
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Golden
5.3 G Shades

6.3 G 7.3 G

8.3 G 9.3 G 10.3 G 12.3 G
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12.81P 11.81P 12.89BP Pearl Blonde

Gold Red

6.34GR 7.34GR 8.34GR 9.34GR
Red

5.4RC 6.4RC 7.4RC 8.4RC
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Mix
0.88Blue Shades

0.33Gold 0.44Red

0.45 RM 0.66 P
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Red Mahogany

5.45RM 6.45 RM 7.45 RM 8.45 RM

Purple

3.6 BV 4.6 BV 5.6 BV 9.6 BV

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Brown Mahogany

4.75BR 5.75BR 6.75MB 7.75MB

5.7 NW 6.7 NW Chocolate

7.7 NW 8.7 NW 9.7 NW 12.7 NW

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Lightening
Natural base colors and tone heights – the dominant melanin pigments are:

2N 6N 8N

• 12N Very light blonde – Very light yellow
• 9N Light blonde – Light yellow
• 8N Blonde – Yellow
• 7N Medium blonde – Orange/yellow
• 6N Dark blonde – Orange
• 5N Light medium brown – Red/orange
• 4N Medium brown – Red
• 3N Dark brown – Red/red
• 2N Black – Red/red/red

28

Color Theory
• Each color nuance comprises a combination of
different pigments.

• Natural tone/color depth

• Primary pigments/color direction

• Secondary pigments/color direction

• Tertiary pigments (a combination of primary and
secondary colors).

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The primary color pigments:
Yellow
Red
Blue

The secondary color pigments:
Orange (yellow + red)
Violet/Mauve (red + blue)
Green (yellow + blue)

The tertiary color pigments:
A combination of the primary pigments and the secondary pigments.

30

Three primary colors yellow

The most popular basic color wheel
(mainly developed by painters from the 18th century and later)

red
Starts with three primary colors: yellow, red and blue.

These three are the basis for mixing all the other colors.

Together they produce a neutral colors - usually a dark grey blue

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When you mix the primary colors in this basic color wheel, you get secondary colors:

yellow and blue produce green

yellow blue green

32

• blue and red produce violet mauve

blue red violet

• red and yellow produce orange.

red yellow orange

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This leaves each primary color with a complementary color
(mixed from the other two primary choices).
Blue/orange, red/green and yellow/violet are complementary colors.

blue orange
yellow violet

red green

34

It is obvious that the colors now really begin to
develop.

This gives all the fantastic nuances around the
color wheel from greenish blues to yellowy
greens. There are called ‘tertiary’ colors

Complementary colors are directly opposite each
other on the color wheel diagram. Each couple
supplement each other to produce a neutral
color.

Mix two complementary colors and you will get
the old dark grey.

35

Natural Color Pigment (Melanin)

The hair’s natural color is based on melanin.

Our genetic background determines the concentration. Some people have melanin in
their skin and in the inner core of the hair.

Melanin helps to convert the rays of the sun to energy.

Melanin is the skin’s and hair’s natural color pigment and consists of three color
pigments.

36

The three color pigments can be divided into three main groups:

Eumelanin is bluish and the most common and is typically seen in the hair of people
from Africa, Asia, Southern Europe and among Eskimos.
People from South East Asia and Eskimos have the highest concentration of
Eumelanin.
It is therefore almost impossible to lighten this type of hair as it will take on a
yellowish sheen.

Pheomelanin is yellowish and is typically found among people from Scandinavia.

Trichosiderin is reddish and typically found in people from England, Ireland and
Scotland.

37

Troubleshooting
In case color result does not provide enough coverage => possible
reasons:

• Cream Color was applied too thinly, e.g. single parts of the hair did get only poor or
no color at all.

• The application time was not adjusted to the hair type, i.e. fine hair needs less
application time of approx. 20 minutes and thicker hair requires up to 45 minutes.

• The color was combed away too early off the hairline in order to balance the length
of hair and the hair-ends. The hair shoud be worked through only AFTER the
application time.

38

Troubleshooting

•Color and Cream Oxidizer weren‘t mixed thoroughly; please do always use a balance to
weigh out correctly the mixing ratio.

•Mixing ratio between fashion shade and natural shade tends too much towards the fashion
shade

•Please make sure to mix always fashion shade to natural shade in the ratio 1: 2 or 1:1

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Troubleshooting

•If an intensive red shade should be achieved for hair which is up to 30% non-pigmented
work with a mixing ratio of fashion to natural shade of 2:1

•A too high cream oxidizer was used, i.e. 30 volume instead of 20 volume

•The chosen shade was too light for the white hairline; from shade 9.0 the grey coverage will
not be 100%

40

Troubleshooting
Stability of red shades
The stability of the red shades very much depends on the hair structure

Principals to optimize the stability of red fashion shades:
• Use little and a mild shampoo
• Leave hair care treatment products only for a short time on the hair
• Longterm goal is to achieve a good and healthy hair structure

Practical advice to optimize the stability of the red shades:
work with extended application time
higher dyestuff supply allows the potential for highlift and a better color result

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THANK YOU VERY MUCH
FOR YOUR ATTENTION!

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