Berlin Anoutsidersguide

Schöneberg
General Information Schöneberg
General Information

Contents Contents

1 Schöneberg
General Information 2

Berlin Tube Map

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History History

Berlin from 1237-1900 In tracing back a few hundred years, that, by the mid-fourteenth century, Enlightenment. Prussia’s third king,
it is possible to see how this came had become the most important Friedrich the Great, transformed
Berlin is a name which conjures many to be. Geographically speaking, trading town in Brandenburg, with Prussia - with Berlin as its capital -
images: a city at the centre of war, a Berlin came into existence as an its own City Council and Stadtbuch. into an enlightened, politically and
conflicted and divided city. A city, if insignificant trade town situated economically strong and religiously
you will, on the extremes. By the time of the Reformation,
in between the two older towns of tolerant state.
Berlin had become an important
Having been the axis of so much of Spandau and Cölln. This central
German town in its own right,
the world’s recent history, it might position worked to Berlin’s favour as
particularly special to many being
be easy to assume that this was all it continued to grow and enveloped
one of the first cities in Europe to
that Berlin had to offer in terms of both other towns within its own
embrace Lutheranism. Because of
historical interest. But this is not so. boundaries.
this, many French Huguenots fled
It has been said of Berlin that it is the Though Berlin can only date its own to Berlin bringing with them their
centre of Germany just as Germany foundation from the first extant intellectual and industrial talents.
is the centre of Europe. mention of Cölln in 1237, it was Berlin
Even today, though the name
“Huguenot” has become largely
insignificant in modern-day
Europe, this relationship between
French Protestants and Berlin
is still celebrated in Mitte’s
Gendarmenmarkt.
Here the Französicher Dom and
the Deutscher Dom, mirroring each
other in design, are monuments to
the great respect these two groups
had for each other. Despite the years Even defeats in the Thirty Years War
between Napoleon’s invasion of failed to completely destroy Prussia’s
Brandenburg and the Cold War, when supremacy. This in time transformed
Franco-German relations were at a the Hohenzollern dynasty into one of
very low ebb, it is nice to see these the greatest in Europe, related by
two rivals still facing each other in marriage to most of the great houses
friendship in the Gendarmenmarkt. on the continent.
Not only a trend-setter in religion, This strength, nobility and stature
Berlin became a leader in the were, along with the talents of

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History History
Otto von Bismarck, one of the main Jewish people of Berlin successfully Philosopher and scholar Moses In the Weimer years (1919-1933)
reasons why Berlin and its monarchy engaged in money lending and Mendelssohn arrived in Berlin in Jewish citizens of Germany and Berlin
became the head of the newly unified petty trade. They were confined 1743, and urged Jews to integrate enjoyed unprecedented levels of
Germany. to living in a ghetto in the Grosser into secular society and by 1778 these freedom, with plays by Max Reinhardt
Judenhof (Jew’s Court) area, and on enlightened ideas found expression taking the stage, Jewish composers
Despite the later failures of this
Judenstrasse (Jew Street). in the Jüdische Freischule (Jewish including Arnold Schoenberg’s works
system in the early years of the
Free School) that combined religious being performed, Max Liebermann
20th century, this age of a strong Following the devastation of the
learning with general education. and Lesser Ury creating beautiful
and enlightened German Empire, Thirty Years’ War and in an attempt
paintings and musicians such as the
led from Berlin, remained in the to achieve an economic upswing by Though the 1812 Emancipation
Comedian Harmonists at the height
European psyche for many years. increasing population, the Great Edict that declared Jewish people
of popularity. The Jewish population
Elector Friedrich Wilhelm allowed 50 equal citizens was in the most
continued to grow and by 1933
prosperous Jewish families that were part quickly retracted, there was
160,000 Jews called Berlin home.
Jewish History of Berlin expelled from Vienna to settle in the a general loosening on Prussia’s
Brandenburg region in 1671. They restrictions and growing equality for At the same time anti-Semitism was
The history of the Jewish community were permitted to stay under the its Jewish population. By 1869 the on the rise and the years leading up
is plagued by episodic persecution, condition that they pay an annual new North German Confederation to the ascendance of Nazi power saw
Jews often being used as a scapegoat protection fee, engage in only passed a law on the equal rights of increasing attacks on members of the
for economic and social woes. certain businesses and worship only religious confession Jewish community. State-
By 1295 Jewish people in Berlin were in their own homes. Finally, a Jewish and declared the backed persecution
barred from many professions and community of Berlin was officially emancipation of ensued after the
effectively forbidden to become founded. Jewish people Nazis took power in
members of the artisan guilds. within its territory 1933, and with the
Despite suffering restrictions on
and by 1871 German 1935 Nüremberger
Throughout the 14th to 16th centuries religion, residence and family size
Jews had equal Gesetze (Nuremberg
Jews were expelled from Berlin and as well as extra taxes, the Jewish
rights. Within a Laws) the Jewish
let back in time and again, accused population of Berlin grew and by
few years members citizens of Germany
of acts such as the rampant plague 1700 the city’s Jewish slums had
of the Jewish were effectively
in Berlin and Brandenburg, which approximately 1,000 residents. In
community rose to deprived of social and
had been sweeping across Europe; 1714 the first synagogue of Berlin was
prominence in government, many economic rights via the introduction
and host desecration; which meant dedicated. As excellent merchants
as close advisors to the Kaiser. By of apartheid-like classifications of
that Berlin had virtually no Jewish and bankers, by halfway through the
the turn of the century, there were “racial purity”.
community for a century. 18th century the Jewish community
more than 110,000 Jews in Berlin,
totaled close to 2,000 and they had Between 1933 and 1939 Jewish
Between expulsions and being comprising more than 5% of the total
become among the richest people in community life increased as Jewish
banned from most other trades, the population.
Berlin. citizens were forced to send their

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History History
children to segregated schools and This night is known as citizens were banned from public and even by 1988 the East German
forbidden from interacting with Reichskristallnacht – Night of Broken transport, their food rations Jewish community had less than 200
non-Jews. Those who could see the Glass, a nationwide attack on the were reduced and thousands members.
writing on the wall and had money Jewish people that resulted in the were deported, mostly to the
In West Berlin, the German Jewish
escaped while they could, though death of 36 of Berlin’s Jews, many Theresienstadt and Auschwitz
community had about 6,000
even such escape was a limited were beaten on the streets while concentration camps.
members, constituting
opportunity, as other European passers-by looked on; the destruction
By the end of the war, the largest Jewish
countries, the US and Palestine all of 23 synagogues and the wrecking of
Hitler’s mass genocide community in Germany.
restricted Jewish immigration. hundreds of shops and businesses.
had reduced Berlin’s After the two Berlin
German Jewish citizens were then
In retaliation for the assassination Jewish population by Jewish communities
required to pay one million marks to
of German diplomat Ernst vom Rath, around 96 per cent to were reunited with the
repair the damages.
who was killed by a 17-year-old about 6,500. Survivors fall of the Berlin Wall,
Polish-Jew, Herschel Grynsypan, the By 1941 it was compulsory for Jewish managed to escape the federal government
Reich Minister of Propaganda Joseph citizens to wear a yellow star at all death often through approved refugee status
Goebbels called for a nationwide times, and the first mass deportations being hidden by gentile for Jews from the former
pogrom on November 9th 1938. from Berlin marked the beginning of families at great Soviet Union and since
the systematic large-scale genocide personal risk or by then over 50,000 Jewish
of German Jews. Before the end of evading final round-ups people have immigrated
the war over 55,000 Jewish residents through legal conditions to Germany, with Berlin
of Berlin were deported. such as irreplaceable more than doubling its
skills vital to the war congregation members
In January 1941 the Wannsee
effort or being married to a non-Jew. to over 12,000.
Conference resolved and planned the
Only about 2,000 returned from the
so-called Endlösung der Judenfrage Since reunification several steps
concentration camps.
(Final Solution to the Jewish have been taken to preserve Jewish
Question) – the removal of all Jews In 1946 the Jewish community was history including the opening of the
to the East and, implicitly, their officially recognized again as a Jewish Museum and the decision by
extermination. The Final Solution public body, and a large number of the German Bundestag to erect the
began to be put into effect, and Eastern European Jews immigrated Denkmal für die ermordeten Juden
life for the Jewish citizens in Berlin to Berlin. As a result of intense Europas (Memorial for the Murdered
became increasingly unbearable. anti-Semitic persecution in East Jews of Europe) according to the
Germany, many members of the design by Peter Eisenman.
All Jewish schools and institutions
Jewish community fled to the west.
were closed down, the Jewish
As a result, the Jewish community of
community was disbanded, Jewish
East Berlin was almost non-existent,

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History History

The puzzle of the Berlin Wall punishable by death. There was the historic port in Cape Town, South 21 different countries; previously it
nothing the Western Berlin police Africa; the entrance of the Basilica was only allowed for West Germans.
An anti-capitalistic protective barrier could do to stop this. Fatima Sanctuary in Portugal; The Gallery is not just for the artistic
with concrete pads, barbwire and the Vatican garden; the 6km long exploration of the Wall’s demise, but
watchtowers held the East German A sad chapter in German history was
green stream Cheonggyecheon in for the memory of the dead refugees.
population from running away. put to an end when the Wall was
South Korean city of Seoul; the EU During the Wall’s 20th anniversary
torn down in 1989, and as a result
“A wall is a hell of a lot better than Parliament in Belgium; as well as former artists were brought to the
the unification of Germany ensued.
war,” declared John F. Kennedy upon places in Strasbourg, Riga, London, capital city to remove the traces
Of over 100 watchtowers three
hearing about the construction of Canberra and Montréal. The biggest of the last 18 years. The graffiti
are kept. Even some of the former
the Berlin Wall. Wall piece outside of Germany is has suffered extensive damage
border crossings
Nevertheless, located in “Freedom Park” near due to visitors and attacks from
are still clearly
for about Arlington, Virginia. Mauerspechten (wall woodpeckers).
recognizable, with
28 years the A €2.5 million renovation is underway
the most well- The well-known East Side Gallery was
160km long and should be ready by Autumn
known transition painted in 1990 by 118 artists from
wall encased a at Checkpoint
whole nation. Charlie.
Between 1949 The wall was
and 1961, broken up and
2.5million the remaining
p e o p l e sections becoming
escaped from memorials and
the German museums for the
Democratic Republic (DDR) by trying fallen. The Todesstreifen (death
to get over the wall, or hiding in zone) can still be seen in many
traffic that was allowed to go through places. Some have been left as
the barriers. The accurate number of large areas of brown, uncultivated
people who were shot down when land, while other parts have been
they tried to escape varies according turned into parks. The pieces of
to different sources. Many memorials wall that were torn down and
give an account of the GDR fugitives’ demolished were sent to museums
tragic destiny: bleeding to death and universities across the world,
after being shot by border patrol and made into souvenirs for tourists.
soldiers. Escape from the German
republic was classified as treason, Wall sections decorate, for example,

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History History
2009. The maintenance of the wall should definitely go to the following BEARLIN Capital of the furry teddies
plays a major role, since it is both places. They will clear all important
an important monument to the questions and satisfy your thirst for Looking back on Berlin’s
reunification, as well as a Certificate knowledge. history begs the question
of European and world culture. of how the bear became
its symbol. Unfortunately
Anyone can acquire a valuable City Museum of Berlin it is not clear what was
memory in the form of a piece of the www.stadtmuseum.de here first; Berlin or the
Wall. Pieces come in different sizes, Am Köllnischen Park 5 bear. It wasn’t until 1280
which are also available online, up U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Jannowitzbrücke when the bear became the
to $150. However, if you want to see Tel: +49 3 024 002 159 heraldic animal of Berlin.
more than just a 2x2cm piece, the Tue, Thu-Sun 10am-6pm Today its image is still
opportunity as a tourist in Berlin is Wed 12-8pm used for advertisements
huge: at Potsdamer Platz, Pariser Price: €4 on different logos,
Platz next to the Brandenburger certifications,
Gate, in Mauerpark along Bernauer Haus am Checkpoint Charlie
newspapers, publications,
Strasse (National Monument, U www.mauermuseum.de
agencies, stamps and
Bernauerstr.) and in Mühlenstraße U-Bahn: Stadtmitte or Kochstraße
even more in and around
with the longest preserved part of Tel: +49 302 537 250
Berlin. The bear even
the wall about 1.3km. Mo- Su 9am- 8pm
became a permanent part
Price: €7.50-12.50
Those interested in the history of of the city’s flag in 1908.
the GDR and the fall of the Wall
Chapel of Reconciliation Berlin bear art is scattered
www.kapelle-versoehnung.de all over the city in the
Bernauerstr. 4 form of sculptures, plastic
Tel: +49 304 636 034 models and architecture,
Service to remember the victims most of which are hidden
(Sunday 10am) amongst the less tourist-
Tue-Sun 10am-5pm prone areas. Some have
also just been rebuilt
Topographie of Terror after they got eliminated
www.topographie.de or damaged during the
Niederkirchnerstr. 8 Nazi regime. Today,
Tel: +49 3 025 450 950 especially in Prenzlauer
Oct-Apr 10am-6pm, May-Sep 10am- Berg, there are many furry

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History History
inhabitants decorating the appear as feared creatures but rather Some of the bear art pieces are also
streets. In the middle of as cute clumsy bears, which delight used for charity. In 2001 Eva Herlitz
the public Volkspark lives the pedestrians who pass over the had the idea to paint bear sculptures,
the most colorful bear bridge. Around this area small cafes sell them at auctions and give the
in Berlin. He was born in and a cozy restaurant at the Spree money to UNICEF and other children
1970 and fell pray to some River invite everybody to sit down aid organizations. In this way they
grafﬁti artists in the last and relax. could donate more than two million
couple of years. However dollars in the last eight years. Jackie
One of the most important bear art
they decided to keep him Chan even brought the idea of the
pieces is W. Sutkowski’s refurbished
blue and call him Käpt’n United Buddy Bears to Hong Kong.
fountain, which was rebuilt after
Blaubär (Captain Blue Everybody can support this project,
being destroyed during World War
bear) which is now a great take part in the competition and
II. Sutowski made his artwork out
attraction for children maybe get the chance to give a
of red Lava Tuff stone which gives
who know this bear from buddy bear a new fur colour.
it an interesting pattern. This
TV.
fountain is decorated with one bear If you want to get a shot of this
At the Moabiter Bridge in the center and eight smaller bears famous Berlin symbol- just keep your
(Bartningallee) there around, almost as if the mother bear eyes open and wherever you may go
are four different bears is watching her children frolic. you will always ﬁnd a bear.
designed by four sculptors
each at a different
location. The bridge was
built between 1893 and
1894 and was rebuilt due
to war damage between
1980 and 1981. The stone
bears are positioned on
all fours and appear to
be giant when standing
in front of them, their
huge paws and enormous
claws making them
appear even larger. Their
bodies look big and round,
nevertheless they do not

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Survival Guide Survival Guide

B erlin is a lovely place to see and explore, but just
to make your visit that much more enjoyable,
we’ve gathered some useful information to help
•
•
Take carrier bags with you to the supermarket to avoid being charged.
There is often a deposit or pfand on bottles from both supermarkets and
bars. If your bottle says Pfand zuruck or Pfand Flasche you can take it
you get by in the city.
to the supermarket recycling machine, which gives you a slip to take to
Culture and etiquette the counter and get your money back. Most bars will tell you if your glass
needs to be returned to get your deposit back.
Berlin generally has a laid back and accepting
attitude to most things, although there is an • It’s best to carry cash – few places accept travellers’ cheques and credit
underlying sense of respect for rules and authority. cards.

• Jaywalking is both illegal and frowned upon - Transport
offenders will more frequently be reprimanded
The city has a well integrated and
by onlookers than the police.
efficient public transport network.
• Although a smoking ban was recently At first glance it may appear quite
introduced to the city, most people don’t adhere to it, especially in bars. complex, but the interconnecting
It is best to ask before you light up. suburban (S-Bahn) and underground
(U-Bahn) trains aided by the tram and
• Service charges in bars/restaurants are normally included in the bill,
bus services ensure you won’t be left
although it is quite common to round up to the nearest euro in most cases.
stranded.
Useful tips The U-Bahn service closes between
• For a quick view of the main Berlin area, bus routes 100 and 200 are midnight and 5am, although the U1 and U9 run an overnight service during
double-decker buses that take you Museum Island, Unter den Linden, the the weekends. The S-Bahn runs every ten to 20 minutes. Buses wind down at
Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag, the Tiergarten, and Kaiser-Wilhelm- midnight, but offer an alternative night service. Most trams stop overnight
Gedächtniskirche. Get a map from the BVG Pavillon on Hardenbergplatz. where other transport is good, otherwise they run a limited night service.
• Some museums stay open late on Thursdays and offer free entry from 6pm. Although it might be tempting to not buy a ticket,
You can also get a three day museum pass for a reduced rate. undercover inspectors often make spot checks and hand
out fines of €40 – better to be safe than sorry!
• Tip and Zitty are fortnightly entertainments guides,
with concert, venue and exhibition information. These are If you buy single tickets, make sure you validate them
available from all newsagents. They are in German, but the before your journey.
nightlife lists are easy to decipher.
Cycling in Berlin
• Recycling is taken quite seriously – look out for
If you abhor public transport, can’t stand rush hour traffic
separate bins for plastic and glass.
and just want to feel the wind in your hair, then why

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don’t you cycle in Berlin? It’s flatter days, but if you are spending a few markets are quite cheap. • Keep a good lookout when riding
than London and less chaotic than weeks or longer in Berlin it is well- alongside pedestrians or cars. Both
• Look before walking across a bike
Amsterdam. With over 800kms of flat worth investing your money in a bike. can be dangerous and you’re in the
path. Sometimes cyclists look for
land, parks, gardens and bike routes, worst position to go flying.
The average price to rent is €15 per someone to get angry with and will
look no further than Berlin’s cycling
day, and most places will hold onto verbally lash out. • Enjoy riding around Berlin. It is
network.
a cash deposit or your passport until good fun, keeps you fit and gets you
• Buy a bike ticket if you need to take
Many hostels will recommend or rent you bring the bike back. around with a lot less stress.
your bike on an S-or U-Bahn (outside
out bikes from a few hours to a few
The best place to look for second- of rush hour). Bikes are free when
hand bikes are flea-markets, you have a monthly ticket.
particularly Mauer Park,
• Get off your bike and walk in busy
where you can pick up a
areas, or ride on the road.
bike for as little as €40.

Fat Tire Bike Tours
Important Information
If you are hardcore and
bring or buy your own bike, www.FatTireBikeToursBerlin.com Panorama Str 1a. U-Bahn:
it’s best to remember the Alexanderplatz. Tel: + 49 30 24 04 79 91. Sun-Sat 9.30am-6pm (-8pm Apr
following, whether biking or 16 – Sep 30).
walking: The perfect combination of getting to know Berlin and getting active is
• Remember that traffic is to combine a city tour with a bike. You get to cover more space in less
on the right-hand side of time than a walking tour, and it’s more fun than being stuck on a bus.
the road. Bike paths, even You will ride along Unter den Linden, through the Brandenburg Tor and
on the footpath, also follow past the Reichstag. Stops are made at all the main sights for your happy
this rule. snaps, and the guides will give you all the history and stories about each
• Buy a pump and tyre repair place.
kit, or at least know a few There are also topic tours on Nazi Germany and the Third Reich, the
locations of Bike Doctors, Berlin Wall and Cold War, and a day trip to Potsdam. Fat Tire also rent
just in case. There is a lot of out bikes (another rental-only shop is located at Zoo Station), provide
broken glass on the streets Segway tours and offer computer and laundry services.
in Berlin.
• Get a good lock. The flea

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Airports done in a number of ways: online; Useful words/phrases
telephone; or the olde traditional
Tegel Airport
way…visit the hostel and book a
Tel: +49 1 805 000 186 bed there and then. Booking online
however is quick, simple and often
English German
Tegel is 8km from the city centre, Yes, No Ja, Nein
cheaper. You could book via the
which is easy and cheap to reach
hostel’s website, but we recommend Please Bitte
by bus. The number 109 stops at
using hostel search engines such You’re welcome Bitte
Zoologischer Station, or you can
as HostelWorld.com. It is one of
catch the U-Bahn. Thank you Danke
the easiest search engines to use,
Schönefeld even for technophobes. Search by Good Morning Guten Morgen
Tel: +49 1 805 000 186 area, price or browse the customer Good Day Guten Tag Entrance Eingang
ratings to ﬁnd the best hostel for
South of the city centre, Bus 171 Good Evening Guten Abend Exit Ausgang
you. Keep an eye out for discounts
can take you from the airport to when booking online. Goodbye Tschüss I would like... Ich möchte...
Flughafen Berlin Schönefeld railway (informal) Do you speak Sprechen Sie
station. From there you can catch How to pay: Most hostels prefer cash
on arrival but each is different so Goodbye Auf English? Englisch?
the S-Bahn or the fast regional trains (formal) Wiedersehen
keep that in mind when browsing. 1 eins
into the city, 20kms away.
A small deposit is required when How are you? Wie geht es 2 zwei
Accommodation Information booking over the internet to ensure (formal) Ihnen?
3 drei
your bed is held, and is especially How are you? Wie geht’s?
Berlin has a number of hostels that 4 vier
worth doing during busy holiday (informal)
provide all the necessary facilities:
periods (May to September). 5 fünf
bed linen; lockers; internet/WIFI; Today Heute
laundry facilities; plus added bonuses Tomorrow Morgen 6 sechs
like leisure and entertainment 7 sieben
Yesterday Gestern
facilities – bar; games room; TV room; 8 acht
and cheap breakfasts. Sometimes Excuse me Entschuldigung
these are free or you may have to Where is...? Wo ist...? 9 neun
pay a small fee. It’s a good idea to How, When, Wie, Wann, 10 zehn
go through these offers and decide Why? Warum? 20 zwanzig
what is important to you and what
Women’s toilets Damen/Frauen 50 fünfzig
you can do without.
Men’s toilets Herren/Männer 100 ein hundert
Booking a bed is easy and can be

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Day Trips Day Trips

Day trips out of Berlin Potsdam
When you just need some time out S-Bahn: 7. Potsdam Hauptbahnhof
from the hustle and bustle of crazy for regional trains.
city life, hop on a train and see
Only twenty minutes by train,
what the end of the line holds. From
Potsdam has just as much history as
castles to beaches and even film
Berlin. With the royal Park Sanssouci
studioes, Berlin’s surroundings are
and the film park Babelsberg, there
just as fun as the inner city.
are many activities to fill your
time. Historically Potsdam has been
around since AD 993, although it was
bombed heavily during World War II.
Potsdam is a small town and the
main street is your average cafe
and shopping strip. A lot of buildings
are also being rebuilt. Wander a
little further and you will find the
original Brandenburger Tor, smaller
but still impressive. The royal palace
- Schloss Sanssouci - was home to Schloss Sanssouci, built between Spend some time wandering the
the Kings of Prussia until 1918. The 1745 and 1747, is flanked on either palaces and grounds. There are 700
important Potsdam Conference was side by smaller palaces one for acres of park to explore, picnic, and
held at Cecilienhof, where the Allies paintings and one for guests. King be surprised in.
all met to discuss how to deal with Friedrich’s summer palace stands
Head back to town and take in
Germany after World War II. above four layers of steps, gardens
the film park Babelsberg. This was
and greenhouses – these were
When you walk from town, take the where many films, including those of
built into the walls to protect the
back entrance into Park Sanssouci. the silent era and Nazi propaganda
hundreds of fig trees during winter.
Walk through Friedenskirche, Church were produced. It is still an active
Maybe they were a personal favourite
of Peace, where the view between and important part of European film
of Friedrich the Great?
the concrete pillars will make you production. Some of the more recent
feel like Alice in Wonderland, looking Hike over to the Orangerie, a palace films produced there include The
out into a splash of colour with the built to house foreign royalty and Pianist, 2001; The Bourne Trilogy;
lake, trees and flowers in full bloom. guests, and climb to the top for a view Valkyrie, 2008; and The Reader,
overlooking the whole of Potsdam. 2008.

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Day Trips Day Trips

Freibad Müggelsee water is natural and ﬂat. It’s great there to gawk will be treated with for €2-5. On a sunny day it can get
for throwing a ball around and some hostility, so make sure you’re quite busy, so head there early to
Fürstenwalder Damm 838, playing horse with your friends. As ready to fully participate in this claim a spot.
Rahnsdorf. Tel: +49 0 306 487 777. the beach does get quite crowded, aspect of German culture if you
S-Bahn: Friedrichshagen, Tram 61: If you can’t beat your sightseeing
especially on sunny weekends, choose to visit the nudist area.
Strandbad Müggelsee. May-Sept addiction, nearby is the Allied
getting there early to claim a prime
9am-6pm. Cost: €4; €2 reductions. Krumme Lanke museum, good for a visual
sun-bathing spot is recommended.
understanding of the Berlin Airlift
Though not Berlin’s most central From Alexanderplatz, the trip takes S-Bahn: Schlachtensee. Lake: Open and American presence in the city
swimming area, this is a perfectly about 45 minutes. all day, every day; free. during much of the 20th century.
pleasant sunny day outing. With The Freikörperkultur (nudist) Also close by is the Wannsee Villa,
Allied Museum: www.
volleyball and basketball courts, section of the beach is separated where the Nazis mapped out the
alliiertenmuseum.de. U-Bahn: Oskar-
snacks and drinks for sale, and a from the Freibad (open-air bathing fate of Europe’s Jews in the 1930s.
Helena-Helm. Mon-Tue, Thu-Sun
restaurant close by, this inland beach area) by 200m of forest. If you’re All in all an enjoyable day out worth
10am-6pm.
on the north shore of East Berlin’s interested in experiencing some of having if just to see another side to
biggest lake boasts a large sun- Germany’s nudist culture get off Wannsee Villa at Am Grossex the multifaced city.
bathing and swimming area. the tram at Fürstenwalder Damm/ Wannsee 56-58. Haus der Wannsee
Müggelseedamm for the FKK section Konferenze: www.ghwk.de. Mon-Sun
Although a sandy forefront, the
of the beach. Tourists who are just 10am-6pm; free. To get there, catch
Bus114 from Wannsee, get off at stop
“Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz”.
If you’re looking for a change from
the busy and hectic city centre, a
short trip to Schlachtensee Station is
a great way to spend a relaxing (and
free!) day out. Only a 100 metre walk
from the station, Krumme Lanke
is surrounded by the trees of the
Grunewald Forest and can provide
the tranquillity and rest your feet so
much desire. It’s possible to swim,
row and walk around in the area, and
you can grab lunch from a cheap but
cheerful café next to the station.
Currywurst, bratwurst and more go

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Day Trips Day Trips

S a c h s e n h a u s e n thought-provoking and encompasses that the Nazis deemed as racially the GDR the remains of some 10,000
Concentration Camp and the many horrors of recent German or biologically inferior such as prisoners were found in mass graves.
history. homosexuals and Jews. The extensive horrors which took
Memorial place at Sachsenhausen during the
The camp was built in 1936 under During this period, tens of thousands
www.gedehstaette-sachsenhausen. Nazi and GDR years are memorialised
Reichsfuhrer SS Heinrich Himmler died at the camp from starvation,
de. Memorial and Museum by the national monument that
as a model for future concentration forced labour, mistreatment and
Sachsenhausen. Straße der towers over the grounds.
camps. Between 1936 and 1945 extermination. Soviet
Nationen 22, Oranienberg. S-Bahn: more than 200,000 people were and Polish forces The barren landscape
Orianenberg. Tel: +49 33 012 000. interned at Sachsenhausen. Initially, liberated the camp on and the original barracks,
Daily 8.30am-6pm. Admission free. the majority of these prisoners April 22, 1945 - sadly prison and security fencing
Reminders of Berlin’s turbulent past were political opponents of Hitler’s however, 300 of the are eerily suggestive of
are all over the city, however a visit to government: communists, social remaining inmates died the extensive suffering
Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp democrats and trade unionists. This from malnutrition and which occurred. In
near Oranienberg is particularly soon widened to include anyone illnesses before they had particular the grim
the chance to leave. The sights of the mortuary,
mass grave in which these living quarters and
prisoners are interred is inﬁrmary invite visitors to
a particularly distressing contemplate experiences
part of the camp. of the prisoners. Invest
in the audio guide for €3
The horrors of
in order to fully grasp
Sachsenhausen did not
the harrowing historical
cease after the fall of the
importance of the site.
Nazis. From August 1945
First-hand accounts
the Soviet secret police
displayed in the museums
reopened the camp for
and played on the audio
the detention of their
guide serve to emphasise
own political prisoners
the traumatic effect
and war criminals;
Hitler’s fascist rule had on
this included anyone
millions of lives.
suspected of opposition.
By 1950 more than 60,000 prisoners A visit to Sachsenhausen is an eye-
of war, suspected former Nazis and opening experience which reiterates
Soviet political dissenters, were the cold reality of World War II and
incarcerated there. After the fall of the subsequent Soviet regime.

27 Schöneberg

Mitte Information
Unter den Linden is one of Berlin’s Platz is perhaps one of the busiest
most famous Boulevards, a 1.5km- places found in Berlin. Cluttered with
long stretch panning east from the shops, a central station and various
Brandenburg Gate up to Museum fountains, it is something to be seen
Island. Developed as a showpiece if only for the novelty. And of course,
since the 18th it is home to
century, where the communist
it was then commissioned TV
used as a horse- Tower - a great
riding route landmark to
to Tiergarten, locate yourself
the road has with when lost.
become a
Pretty much
gallery for
deserted during
some of Berlin’s
the GDR era,
greatest sights.
the Spandauer
Museum Island Vorstadt has been
is a must see, overtaken by
with some of squatters, artists
the worlds and anyone
finest art and sculpture. Whilst with a flair for renovation. Its focal
in the area, a quick diversion point lies in Hackeschen Markt and
to the governmental quarter of the bustling streets surrounding it,
Berlin is defiantly worthwhile. The crammed with busy (and expensive)
Spreebogen, a horseshoe shaped restaurants and shops. The area to
bend of the Spree River, houses the west – Grosse Hamburger Strasse
several buildings running in an east- and the touristy Oranienburger
west direction to symbolically tie the Strasse – formed the heart of Berlin’s
two halves of the city together. The pre-war Jewish district. At the end
Reichstag, situated in the middle of of Oranienburger Strasse lies the
this unison, is a favourite amongst graffiti-covered Tachles, an anarchic
visitors, as the glass dome gives 1990s artists’ squat still preserved as
spectacular views across the city. such today, providing a good starting
point for Berlin’s nightlife.
Nicknamed ‘Alex’ by locals, Alexander

29 Mitte Mitte 30

Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
Today, the Gate serves as a tourist a symbolic central point of Europe,
must-see, with families and with trains coming from Rome and
travellers posing for photos in front Copenhagen, Moscow and Paris.
of the impressive structure.
Hop on any one of the S-Bahn lines
Berlin Hauptbanhof going through this station and you
will get a great tour of the main sights
www.hbf-berlin.de. Europaplatz 1. of Mitte, including the Reichstag,
Nicknamed the “glass cathedral” the Spree and the Siegessäule. If you
by locals, this central station offers don’t have a need to travel, simply
not only an easy route to almost a quick trip here to look around is
anywhere in Berlin and Europe, worthwhile as the architecture is
but also a master class in glass and remarkable.
steel architecture. The Gothic-style
construction was built primarily
Brandenburg Gate torch-lit marches; and with the wall for the 2006 football World Cup,
enclosing the Gate in the Eastern and hosts many shops, eateries and
Pariser Platz, S-Bahn: Unter den sector in 1961, it soon became a
Linden, Bus 100/200. meeting points one would expect in
symbol of the city’s division. Nearby such a large station.
Designed by Carl Gotthard Langhans observation posts became a hot spot
and built in 1791, the Brandenburg for visiting politicians, including Designed by two Hamburg-based
Gate has become a focal point in Kennedy and Thatcher, giving them architects, Meinhard von Gerkan and
Berlin’s turbulent history. Originally, a rare glimpse at life on the other Volkin Marg, it has become Europe’s
it was recognised as a symbol of side. biggest train hub, boasting a capacity
German solidarity, as it looks out onto of 300,000 travellers, running on
Sitting on top of the Gate is the 1,100 trains per day. Unlike other
the impressive Siegessäule, marking equally historic Quadriga, the horse-
Prussian military victories. With stations in Berlin and across Europe,
drawn chariot that was once snatched its cleanliness and peacefulness are
many of Berlin’s main roads leading up by Napoleon and relocated to
towards it, the Gate is something dominant, with little to no grafﬁti or
France (only to be returned to its rubbish in sight.
almost impossible to miss. original home a few years later). The
The site has witnessed many GDR also did its own ﬁddling with the Since its initial drawing-board stages,
important events in Berlin’s history, statue, including the removal of the the station was always planned
including being a meeting place for cross and it being turned around to to observe a north-south, east-
revolutionaries in 1848 ad 1918; a face the West during the cold-war west axis, cutting through the long
favoured rallying point for the Nazis’ era. circle line. This axis now serves as

31 Mitte Mitte 32

Neue Wache Teeming with important historical the building isn’t packed with Nikolaiviertel
(New Guard House) sites, Unter den Linden is indisputably tourists.
fascinating yet sometimes
(St Nicholas Quarter)
Unter den Linden 4. S-Bahn: Unter Bombing from the Second World War
exhausting. The Neue Wache (or New U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz. Combined
den Linden. Daily 10am – 6pm. left the building scarred, and as a
Guard House) is perfect for quiet ticket for Nikolaikirche, Knoblaus-
Entrance Free. result, in need of serious repair. From
contemplation: a momentary repose Haus and Ephraim-Palais: €3-5. Free
1960, the GDR restored the building,
amidst a hectic day of sightseeing. Wednesdays.
renaming it “Memorial to the Victims
The mourning sculpture by Käthe
of Fascism and Militarism”. Inside the A short walk from bustling
Kollwitz stands alone in the centre
chamber, an eternal flame burned. Alexanderplatz one finds a quiet
of the room, as a powerful symbol of
In 1969 the Neue Wache housed the square centred around the
the emotional torment that ensued
remains of an Unknown Soldier and Nikolaikirche and Nikolaikirchplatz.
after the Second World War.
concentration camp prisoner. In Although the so-called Nikolaiviertel
It was the first building designed by 1993, after German reunification, appears to be one of the last
the important German architect Karl the hall was declared as the “Central remainders of medieval Berlin, aside
Friedrich Schinkel in Berlin (1816- Memorial of the Federal Republic of from the Nikolaikirche, founded in
1818). It notably emphasizes the Germany”. Having been described as 1240, most of the original buildings
popular German Neo-Classical style a “monumentally void interior hall”, in this area were either destroyed by
of architecture, which swept through the Neue Wache is nonetheless bombing or pulled down during the
Germany in the 19th century. Until worth a visit for its atmospheric and 1930s and Soviet era. In a small twist
the end of the monarchy in 1918, emotional resonance. of irony, many buildings were rebuilt
the Neue Wache functioned as the in 1987 by the GDR government
royal guard house. Since then, this Fernsehturm to look like the originals, using
compact, yet simultaneously stately w w w. b e r l i n e r f e r n s e h t u r m . d e . photographs from the 1920s as
building has served as a memorial for Panoramastrasse 1a. U-Bahn: reference.
victims of war. Alexanderplatz. Tel: +49 2 423 333. For historic interest, there is a series
The German architect Heinrich Mar-Oct 9am-12am, Nov-Feb 10am- of placards on various buildings
Tessenow first made changes to 12am. Price: €4.50-9.50. in the area giving information on
the building in 1930-31, creating a Towering above Berlin, the personalities who lived there or
“Memorial for Those Who Fell in the Fernsehturm or T.V. tower serves as events which took place. In terms of
Great War”. He inserted the oculus a beacon for visitors and locals alike museums, there is the Nikolaikirche,
in the centre of the ceiling, through to orientate themselves, since it can the Knoblaus-Haus and the Ephraim-
which light filters into the dark be seen from all corners of the city. Palais, together offering a fairly
chamber, creating an atmospheric The structure offers 360˚ views of comprehensive portrait of Berlin’s
Neue
and almost eerie sensation – when Berlin with a rotating café on the history from its foundation to the

33 Mitte Mitte 34

nineteenth century. the cross remained. The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
This is a neighbourhood that plays www.stiftung-denkmal.de. Stresemannstraße 90. Tel: +49 3 026 394 311.
on its medieval heritage as much as Memorial: Accessible at any time. Information Centre: Apr-Sep 10am-8pm,
possible, from cafés proclaiming to Oct-Mar 10am-7pm. Admission free.
have been established in the 13th
century, to antiquarian booksellers The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is one of the largest in the city
taking advantage of the archaic and consists of 2,711 concrete blocks covering 19,000 square metres. Each
atmosphere. However, there is block varies slightly in height and is built on unevenly sloping ground. The
an obvious attempt to cash in on memorial is accessible from all sides, allowing visitors to find their own path
this – you will find a lot of souvenir through the grid pattern, although there are specially marked routes through
shops around Nikolaikirchplatz and the memorial for wheelchair users.
the restaurants tend to be a little The Information Centre, located under the south-east corner of the memorial,
overpriced. The square also backs gives an explicit and emotional account of Jewish persecution between
onto the river which offers more 1933 and 1945. Photographs,
restaurants and a nice spot to eat or personal accounts and biographies
rest. emphasise the harsh reality of
upper floor, completing one rotation the harassment, expulsion, and
every 30 minutes. extermination of entire families.
Here you can find information
The Fernsehturm is 368m high and
that documents the geographic
was completed in 1969. The tower
spread of genocide as well as being
was built with the intention of
presented with the number of
demonstrating how technologically
victims from each occupied country
advanced the East was. This symbol
further highlighting the extent of
of progress became a source of
these horrific events. There is also
embarrassment for the German
a room where visitors can search
government. When hit with direct
for victims’ names in a database
sunlight, the tower creates the
that contains more than three
reflection of a cross, the same
million entries.
symbol the government had tried so
hard to banish. The West Germans Although admission is free, audio
called this “the Pope’s Revenge” guides available for €3. If you visit
since all crosses had been removed on a Sunday at 4pm you can take
from East German churches. No the guided tour, in English, also at
matter what the East Germans did, a cost of €3.

35 Mitte Mitte 36

Hamburger Bahnhof and the strong association Beuys works on display from pop arts front
had with some of the art world’s man Andy Warhol, including ‘Mao’
w w w. s m b . m u s e u m / s m b / h b f / . most unconventional and reputable (1973). The real gems are found in
U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. artists. the quotes scattered around from the
Tel: +49 3 039 783 411. Open: charismatic and controversial Joseph
Tues-Sun:10am-6pm. Price: €6/€3 A modest glimpse into the bizarre
Beuys, the clashing placement of
concession. and borderline ridiculous nature
life-like pieces opposing walls of
of contemporary modern art itself,
An abstract collection of works, absurdity, and the general conceited
the gallery undeniably reeks of
from German artist and theorist nature of many of the passing
inspiration and creativity that either
Joseph Beuys to Andy Warhol, visitors.
inspires or repels the passing masses.
are displayed beneath the roof of Although guaranteed to split the Neue Synagoge
this former railway station turned
contemporary art museum. Open
opinions of visitors, the collection is (New Synagogue)
well worth a look if not for ‘what is’
since 1996, the surreal collection displayed then ‘why’ it is displayed. www.cjudaicum.de, Oranienburger
has been in the making since the Str 28-30. U-Bahn/S-Bahn:
mid 1970’s, and highlights both the Most visitors pop in for a quick Oranienburger Tor or Friedrichstr. and damaged, this synagogue was
limitless boundaries of abstract art glimpse of the numerous original Tel. 030 880 28 316. Sun-Thurs salvaged by Wilhelm Krutzfeld, the
10am-6pm, Fri: 10am-5pm. Closed district police chief of the time,
on Saturdays and Jewish Holidays. who forced the arsonists to leave
Cupola open to visitors April- claiming it was under protection as
September. Price: €1-5. a city landmark.
The New Synagogue of Berlin with Although services continued
its golden cupola rises high above afterwards until 1940, it was then
the center of the city. Though it has taken over and used as a storage
faced desecration and destruction, place for uniforms. Consequently in
it still remains a city landmark. Built 1943, the synagogue was bombed by
in 1866, the synagogue was once the the Allied Forces, severely damaging
center of Jewish worship housing it. In 1958, the destroyed main hall
over 3000 congregants. was torn down, only the front of the
The rise of the Nazis, though, building remaining.
hindered this community. During the However in 1988, the main dome
November 1938 pogroms, known as and the two corner towers were
Reichs-Kristallnacht, a night where restored to look exactly as they
most Jewish sites were vandalized

37 Mitte Mitte 38

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