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Adventures in Evolution




Michelle Peot
March 2012
                                 First chick ascent of the Evolution Traverse
The High Sierra




           Mt Humphreys, Basin Mt, and Mt Tom from the Buttermilks
The Area

Sierra Nevada Range
• ~400 mi in length
• Predominately granite
• Most stable weather in
Aug-Sep, t-storms in Jun-Jul
but not as regular as the
Rockies
• High concentration of
quality alpine routes
between Bridgeport and
Lone Pine (~150 mi)


                               Map from UC Davis’ Information Center for the Environment
Red Dihedral on the Hulk

The Area | Bridgeport                      (5.10b, 12 pitches)



                         Incredible Hulk




photo by Luke Stefurak
The Area | Yosemite (Tuolumne)
                          N Ridge of Mt Conness (5.6)




Third Pillar of Mt Dana
The Area | Rock Creek/Pine Creek
                   N Buttress on Merriam Peak (5.10, 10 pitches)




Bear Creek Spire

                                        photo by Jed Porter
N Buttress on Mt Goode (5.9,

    The Area | Bishop                 pitches)




W Face on Cardinal Pinnacle (5.10a,
4 pitches)
The Area | Big Pine   Palisades




Temple Crag
The Area | Lone Pine

N Ridge on Lone Pine Peak (5.5)




                                  Keeler Needles & Mt Whitney
The Pioneers
                                  Peter Croft                     Glen Dawson
Norman Clyde




                                                                 Barbara Lilley




                   Galen Rowell
   Jules Eichorn                                Vern Clevenger
Evolution Traverse
The Mystique

   How we got spanked on Evolution Traverse (Shay of
    pullharder.org, 2007)
   “16 hours car-to-car; 22 miles; peaks reached: 0/9”
    (Warren C and Dave J, 2009)
   “Cycling through 3 partners over 3 attempts…” (Ryan
    H in reference to Josh G, 2011)
   “The best traverse I have done.” (Peter Croft in The
    Good, The Great and the Awesome; FA on attempt #3)
   17 documented successful ascents prior to my 2011
    attempt (all by men)
The Route
                          5.6



                                  5.8

• 5.9, VI
                                        5.9
• 10 mile approach over
Lamark Col (3,600 ft of
gain and 1,600 ft of
descent)
• 8 mile ridge traverse
over nine 13K ft peaks
• ~16 mile hike out


                                5.7
The Route | History

1966
Gordon Waddell does Spencer to Huxley.
July 1997
Peter Croft and Galen Rowell climb Mendel
to Haeckel, with Croft continuing on alone
for the last 4 peaks.
August 1998
Peter Croft and Dayle Mazzerella traverse
from 13,360 to Spencer.
June 1999
Croft returns to complete the full traverse
solo.

Source: Croft’s The Good, The Great, and the Awesome: The Top 40 High Sierra Rock Climbs
My Background

   Climbing
       Been climbing on/off since the mid-90s
       Since ~2006 increased focus on trad/alpine climbing
       Comfortable leading ≤ 5.10 trad
       Enjoy exposure, soloing, and mega days
   Work
       Work full-time as a data geek for a search company in
        Glendale CA, but fortunate to work remotely
The Prep

   First (half-assed) attempt in Sep 2010
     Base camp support from Jascha
     Bailed before the Mendel summit due to (chronic) hip
     flexor issues
   Major focus on the Aug 2011 attempt
     Made the decision to do the traverse alone and
     unsupported
     Ton of climbing (trad, sport, bouldering, alpine soloing)
     with a focus on alpine speed and endurance
     Planning & logistics (balancing weight and comfort/safety)
     PT
The Prep

   2011 conditions
    and my dismal
    ability to
    forecast snow
    levels




Raw data from skiiinfo.com   Data from skiinfo.com
                                                     (in cm)
The Prep
   Surprisingly early start to
    the alpine season given
    the winter’s record
    snowfall




                N Ridge of Lone Pine Peak (5.5), 30 May
The Prep
   Spent much time on Temple Crag
    to avoid sloggy conditions




                                     Moon Goddess Arete (5.8)
The Prep




           Sun Ribbon (5.10a) | Galey | Sill traverse
The Prep

   Last minute Evolution
    crux recon and bivy
    gear stash 1.5 weeks
    prior
The Approach




               Darwin and Mendel from Lamark Col
The Approach




  Darwin Canyon 2010   Darwin Canyon 2011
The Approach                  Darwin Canyon

                  Darwin
                  Benches




               Base camp at Darwin Benches
The Climb
                            Darwin Canyon
            Darwin
            Benches




            13,360 from Darwin Benches
The Climb


Looking into Evolution Basin from
the ridgeline on 13,360




                 Darwin Canyon

Darwin
Benches
The Climb


 Self portrait en route to 13,360




                Darwin Canyon

Darwin
Benches
The Climb




            Mendel from the 13,360 summit (5.6)
The Climb




            Ridge traverse to Mendel
The Climb




            Mendel headwall (~25 ft, not 5.9)
The Climb




            Darwin from Mendel
The Climb




            Picket fence to Darwin (5.8)
The Climb




      Darwin summit block
The Climb




       Chimney section off the Darwin summit (5.9)
The Climb




More down-climbing off the Darwin summit
The Climb




            Traverse to 13,332 (5.9)
The Climb




            Golden slab (photo from recon)
The Climb




            Bivy #1 with the evening’s
            entertainment, This American Life
The Climb




            13,332 summit
The Climb




            Haeckel from 13,332 (class 3)
The Climb




            Looking toward Wallace from just
            below the Haeckel summit
The Climb




            And…the wall
The Climb
               5.6



                       5.8



                             5.9




                     5.7
            And…the wall
The Climb




            Emma
The Climb




            Fiske from Wallace?
The Climb




                                             Warlow from Fiske




            Photo courtesy of Laura Molnar
The Climb




            Bivy #2


                                             Huxley from Warlow




            Photo courtesy of Laura Molnar
The Climb




            Morning light from bivy #2
The Climb




            Huxley, the final obstacle (~5.7)
The Climb




            The last summit!
The Descent




              Hike back on the John
              Muir Trail through
              Evolution Basin
The Descent                  Darwin Canyon
              Darwin
              Benches




               First real food in 2.5 days
Summary

~22.5 hours of climbing
over 2.1 days
Tips

   Go as light as you can taking into consideration your limits and
    conditions.
   Be efficient at route-finding, moving quickly unroped over 4th and
    easy 5th class terrain, and rope/gear management if you plan to
    use them.
   Consider your water options (snow melt versus dropping down
    500’ to Haeckel Col).
    Acclimate. A full day at the Darwin Benches helps significantly
    especially if you are a flatlander.
   Note to self: Have your food plan perfected and make sure your
    camera is fully functional.
   Have fun. It’s an amazing climb no matter how far you get.
Questions | Beta


    user name fossana
    on summitpost and
    mountainproject
   slides will be
    posted on
    slideshare.net
    (same user name)
Gear List
   80’ of 7mm Mammut Pro Cord – did 1 pack haul, 1 pack lower and 1 rap
   3 nuts (sm, med, lg) – didn’t use
   ATC guide / locker
   Camp XLH 95 harness
   40’ 9/16” tubular webbing – way too much
   Lightest pair of climbing shoes I could find at the Gear Exchange
   Western Mountaineering VersaLite (10 degree bag)
   2L MSR Dromedary bag (for melting snow) + 100 oz hydration bladder
   Black Diamond Speed 40 pack
   Montrail CTC approach shoes
   Camp Corsa ice axe (left this at Lamark Col on the hike in)
   Cheap closed cell foam pad cut down to ½ length and minimal width*
   Rab Storm Bivi*                                        * Cached on recon
More Eye Candy | TRs

   Josh Garrison’s video covering 3 attempts:
    http://vimeo.com/15555114
   Patituccis’ blog:
    http://dolomitesport.com/2009/12/climbing-the-
    sierra-nevadas-evolution-traverse/
   Alan Cattabriga’s TR: http://neice.com/2010/09/the-
    evolution-traverse/
   My TR: http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Evolution-
    Traverse-How-I-Owe-it-All-to-an-
    Apple/t11143n.html
Many Thanks To
the following people for beta, encouragement, company on
  recons/training climbs, and tolerating my obsessive
  ramblings:

Alan C, Vic L, Peter C, Mike C, Ben H, Jason L, Ian C-B, Tricia L, Matt S,
  Tai D, Em H, Todd T, Joe L, Lisa R, Wills Y, Jascha L, Joan P, Miguel F,
  Sandra S, Janel C, Jessie M, Yoshiko and Jim M, Nathan W, Laura M

                       and especially Emma
Many Thanks To




 especially the Limits episode (Apr 2010)

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Adventures in Evolution (Mar 2012 Boulder presentation)

  • 1. Adventures in Evolution Michelle Peot March 2012 First chick ascent of the Evolution Traverse
  • 2. The High Sierra Mt Humphreys, Basin Mt, and Mt Tom from the Buttermilks
  • 3. The Area Sierra Nevada Range • ~400 mi in length • Predominately granite • Most stable weather in Aug-Sep, t-storms in Jun-Jul but not as regular as the Rockies • High concentration of quality alpine routes between Bridgeport and Lone Pine (~150 mi) Map from UC Davis’ Information Center for the Environment
  • 4. Red Dihedral on the Hulk The Area | Bridgeport (5.10b, 12 pitches) Incredible Hulk photo by Luke Stefurak
  • 5. The Area | Yosemite (Tuolumne) N Ridge of Mt Conness (5.6) Third Pillar of Mt Dana
  • 6. The Area | Rock Creek/Pine Creek N Buttress on Merriam Peak (5.10, 10 pitches) Bear Creek Spire photo by Jed Porter
  • 7. N Buttress on Mt Goode (5.9, The Area | Bishop pitches) W Face on Cardinal Pinnacle (5.10a, 4 pitches)
  • 8. The Area | Big Pine Palisades Temple Crag
  • 9. The Area | Lone Pine N Ridge on Lone Pine Peak (5.5) Keeler Needles & Mt Whitney
  • 10. The Pioneers Peter Croft Glen Dawson Norman Clyde Barbara Lilley Galen Rowell Jules Eichorn Vern Clevenger
  • 12. The Mystique  How we got spanked on Evolution Traverse (Shay of pullharder.org, 2007)  “16 hours car-to-car; 22 miles; peaks reached: 0/9” (Warren C and Dave J, 2009)  “Cycling through 3 partners over 3 attempts…” (Ryan H in reference to Josh G, 2011)  “The best traverse I have done.” (Peter Croft in The Good, The Great and the Awesome; FA on attempt #3)  17 documented successful ascents prior to my 2011 attempt (all by men)
  • 13. The Route 5.6 5.8 • 5.9, VI 5.9 • 10 mile approach over Lamark Col (3,600 ft of gain and 1,600 ft of descent) • 8 mile ridge traverse over nine 13K ft peaks • ~16 mile hike out 5.7
  • 14. The Route | History 1966 Gordon Waddell does Spencer to Huxley. July 1997 Peter Croft and Galen Rowell climb Mendel to Haeckel, with Croft continuing on alone for the last 4 peaks. August 1998 Peter Croft and Dayle Mazzerella traverse from 13,360 to Spencer. June 1999 Croft returns to complete the full traverse solo. Source: Croft’s The Good, The Great, and the Awesome: The Top 40 High Sierra Rock Climbs
  • 15. My Background  Climbing  Been climbing on/off since the mid-90s  Since ~2006 increased focus on trad/alpine climbing  Comfortable leading ≤ 5.10 trad  Enjoy exposure, soloing, and mega days  Work  Work full-time as a data geek for a search company in Glendale CA, but fortunate to work remotely
  • 16. The Prep  First (half-assed) attempt in Sep 2010  Base camp support from Jascha  Bailed before the Mendel summit due to (chronic) hip flexor issues  Major focus on the Aug 2011 attempt  Made the decision to do the traverse alone and unsupported  Ton of climbing (trad, sport, bouldering, alpine soloing) with a focus on alpine speed and endurance  Planning & logistics (balancing weight and comfort/safety)  PT
  • 17. The Prep  2011 conditions and my dismal ability to forecast snow levels Raw data from skiiinfo.com Data from skiinfo.com (in cm)
  • 18. The Prep  Surprisingly early start to the alpine season given the winter’s record snowfall N Ridge of Lone Pine Peak (5.5), 30 May
  • 19. The Prep  Spent much time on Temple Crag to avoid sloggy conditions Moon Goddess Arete (5.8)
  • 20. The Prep Sun Ribbon (5.10a) | Galey | Sill traverse
  • 21. The Prep  Last minute Evolution crux recon and bivy gear stash 1.5 weeks prior
  • 22. The Approach Darwin and Mendel from Lamark Col
  • 23. The Approach Darwin Canyon 2010 Darwin Canyon 2011
  • 24. The Approach Darwin Canyon Darwin Benches Base camp at Darwin Benches
  • 25. The Climb Darwin Canyon Darwin Benches 13,360 from Darwin Benches
  • 26. The Climb Looking into Evolution Basin from the ridgeline on 13,360 Darwin Canyon Darwin Benches
  • 27. The Climb Self portrait en route to 13,360 Darwin Canyon Darwin Benches
  • 28. The Climb Mendel from the 13,360 summit (5.6)
  • 29. The Climb Ridge traverse to Mendel
  • 30. The Climb Mendel headwall (~25 ft, not 5.9)
  • 31. The Climb Darwin from Mendel
  • 32. The Climb Picket fence to Darwin (5.8)
  • 33. The Climb Darwin summit block
  • 34. The Climb Chimney section off the Darwin summit (5.9)
  • 35. The Climb More down-climbing off the Darwin summit
  • 36. The Climb Traverse to 13,332 (5.9)
  • 37. The Climb Golden slab (photo from recon)
  • 38. The Climb Bivy #1 with the evening’s entertainment, This American Life
  • 39. The Climb 13,332 summit
  • 40. The Climb Haeckel from 13,332 (class 3)
  • 41. The Climb Looking toward Wallace from just below the Haeckel summit
  • 42. The Climb And…the wall
  • 43. The Climb 5.6 5.8 5.9 5.7 And…the wall
  • 44. The Climb Emma
  • 45. The Climb Fiske from Wallace?
  • 46. The Climb Warlow from Fiske Photo courtesy of Laura Molnar
  • 47. The Climb Bivy #2 Huxley from Warlow Photo courtesy of Laura Molnar
  • 48. The Climb Morning light from bivy #2
  • 49. The Climb Huxley, the final obstacle (~5.7)
  • 50. The Climb The last summit!
  • 51. The Descent Hike back on the John Muir Trail through Evolution Basin
  • 52. The Descent Darwin Canyon Darwin Benches First real food in 2.5 days
  • 53. Summary ~22.5 hours of climbing over 2.1 days
  • 54. Tips  Go as light as you can taking into consideration your limits and conditions.  Be efficient at route-finding, moving quickly unroped over 4th and easy 5th class terrain, and rope/gear management if you plan to use them.  Consider your water options (snow melt versus dropping down 500’ to Haeckel Col).  Acclimate. A full day at the Darwin Benches helps significantly especially if you are a flatlander.  Note to self: Have your food plan perfected and make sure your camera is fully functional.  Have fun. It’s an amazing climb no matter how far you get.
  • 55. Questions | Beta  user name fossana on summitpost and mountainproject  slides will be posted on slideshare.net (same user name)
  • 56. Gear List  80’ of 7mm Mammut Pro Cord – did 1 pack haul, 1 pack lower and 1 rap  3 nuts (sm, med, lg) – didn’t use  ATC guide / locker  Camp XLH 95 harness  40’ 9/16” tubular webbing – way too much  Lightest pair of climbing shoes I could find at the Gear Exchange  Western Mountaineering VersaLite (10 degree bag)  2L MSR Dromedary bag (for melting snow) + 100 oz hydration bladder  Black Diamond Speed 40 pack  Montrail CTC approach shoes  Camp Corsa ice axe (left this at Lamark Col on the hike in)  Cheap closed cell foam pad cut down to ½ length and minimal width*  Rab Storm Bivi* * Cached on recon
  • 57. More Eye Candy | TRs  Josh Garrison’s video covering 3 attempts: http://vimeo.com/15555114  Patituccis’ blog: http://dolomitesport.com/2009/12/climbing-the- sierra-nevadas-evolution-traverse/  Alan Cattabriga’s TR: http://neice.com/2010/09/the- evolution-traverse/  My TR: http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Evolution- Traverse-How-I-Owe-it-All-to-an- Apple/t11143n.html
  • 58. Many Thanks To the following people for beta, encouragement, company on recons/training climbs, and tolerating my obsessive ramblings: Alan C, Vic L, Peter C, Mike C, Ben H, Jason L, Ian C-B, Tricia L, Matt S, Tai D, Em H, Todd T, Joe L, Lisa R, Wills Y, Jascha L, Joan P, Miguel F, Sandra S, Janel C, Jessie M, Yoshiko and Jim M, Nathan W, Laura M and especially Emma
  • 59. Many Thanks To especially the Limits episode (Apr 2010)