12. The force of waves
hitting a cliff (or sea
wall) compresses
water and air into
cracks and joints. This
can be equivalent to
30,000kg per square
metre.
This increase in
pressure may lead to
cracks widening and
pieces of rock breaking
off.
Hydraulic Action
13. Corrasion (abrasion)
Rock fragments may be picked
up by waves and thrown
against the rock face of cliffs
by subsequent waves.
The effectiveness of the
corrasion depends on the
strength of the wave, the
nature of its ‘load’ and the
resistance of the rock in the
cliff face.
Corrasion is most effective at
the base of cliffs
14. Attrition
Currents and tidal
movements cause the
fragments to be swirled
around and to grind against
each other.
This type of erosion
produces pebble beaches.
21. Rates of erosion depend on many factors:
• Waves – strength, frequency, height
• Weather – frequency of storm conditions
• Geology of the coastline :
type of rock
degree of resistance
stratification
stability
22. Coastlines of Erosion
1. Headlands and bays
2. Cliffs and wave cut platforms
3. Headland erosion and the formation of caves,
blowholes, arches, stacks and stumps
23. Headlands and bays
• These are most likely to be found in areas where alternating
resistant and less resistant rock meets the coast at right
angles
• Erosion erodes the softer rocks more quickly forming bays
• Headlands are formed of rocks which are more resistant to
erosion
27. The waves attack the base of the cliff through the processes
of abrasion, corrosion, hydraulic action and attrition.
Over time the cliff will be undercut and a wave-cut notch is
formed.
Eventually the cliff becomes unstable and collapses. Further
cliff retreat will form a wave-cut platform.
The formation of
cliffs and wave
cut platforms
33. The waves attack the base of the cliff through the processes
of abrasion, corrosion, hydraulic action and attrition.
Over time the cliff will be undercut and a wave-cut notch is
formed.
Eventually the cliff becomes unstable and collapses. Further
cliff retreat will form a wave-cut platform.
The formation of
cliffs and wave
cut platforms
39. Using the terms
below, produce a four
picture storyboard
explaining the
process that produces
a wave cut platform.
High Tide
Low Tide
Wave Cut Notch
Corrasion
Retreat
Wave cut
platform
Cliff
42. Caves
Caves usually develop from widening
and deepening of notches where
there are weaknesses in the cliff face
This large cave at Arbroath is fault
guided.
Can you see the fault?
43. Erosive waves may blast their way
vertically through lines of weakness
in the roofs of caves.
This produces a blowhole on the
cliff top.
In stormy conditions sea spray may
spout from blowholes.
Blowholes
44. This huge blowhole is the Gaylet Pot near Auchmithie. The tractor on the
skyline is at the top of the cliffs.
45. Arches
These are formed by the
wearing away of narrow
headlands often by two
back-to-back cave
systems joining.
Durdle Door
The waves continue to erode at the foot of the arch widening it. Eventually the roof
of the arch can no longer be supported and it will collapse.
46. Here a cave and arch are forming on the same headland at
Auchmithie
47.
48. Stacks and stumps
Stacks often represent the seaward remnant
of a collapsed arch. These tall, isolated
pillars of rock such as ‘The Pinnacles’ on the
Dorset coast, are reduced by further wave
action to stumps.
49. The ‘Deil’s Heid’ stack at
Arbroath is interesting
because sea level has
fallen since it was
formed.
There is very little erosion
around its base so it is
unlikely to become a
stump for a very long
time.
50. We can now imagine how
the headland at Durdle Door
might be evolving
Durdle Door in
the past………
74. About the template...
You could draw your own template or print this slide and use for the model.
The template should be A5 to fit into across a A4 exercise book- of course
you could supersize the model.
75. Write a voice over for the next clip. Your script should
explain how the feature formed
82. For the exam
• Have to be happy with 4 and 6 figure grid
references
83. Contructive Coastlines
1. Processes of Transportation
2. Features of Coastal Deposition :
Beaches and Sand Dune Systems
Spits
Bars and Tombolos
VV ‘05
85. BackwashSwash
Transportation of beach material
• Prevailing winds cause
waves to approach the
beach at an oblique angle
• Swash pushes beach
material diagonally up the
beach
• Gravity pulls the backwash
at right angles back to the
sea taking beach material
with it
• Over time this moves
material along the beach in
a zig-zag fashion
86. This movement of sediment
along the coastline is
called..
Direction of movement
swas
h
Backwash is always at
right angles to the
beach
Longshore Drift
87.
88. Groynesare sometimes built (as here on Aberbeen beach)
to counteract the process of longshore drift and encourage the
accumulation of sand.
This can,
however, result
in depletion of
sand and an
increase in
erosion further
along the
coastline……
89. ……such as here at Barton-on-Sea on the south coast of
England where the groynes at Christchurch have
deprived this stretch of coastline of beach material. As a
consequence, the beach at Barton has almost
disappeared and the cliffs are eroding.
To prevent further erosion, rock
armour (rip rap ) has been
placed on what is left of the
beach
90. Beaches develop where the supply of sediment exceeds loss through backwash and
longshore drift. Beaches are usually distinguished as either …
Shingle
or Sand
Shingle beaches are free draining so there is little backwash of
material to sea. As a consequence, they are usually steeper.
91. Some features of
a shingle beach ..
largest material is
furthest from the sea
Successively
lower berms
Berms represent
successive levels of
beach material from
storms and high tides
92. Sand beaches have a
more gentle profile.
This is the result of a
number of factors…
Wet sand compacts so water doesn’t drain
through it. This means that backwash, and the
material it is carrying, is able to return to the sea.
Sand is smoother
than shingle so
there is less
friction to
prevent the
return of beach
materials to the
sea
93. But that’s a story for another
As on-shore winds blow across dry beach sand, it carries material
inland to form sand dune systems
94. Spits and Bars
Where there is a change in the coastline e.g. a
headland or an estuary mouth, longshore drift may
continue to deposit sediments into the sea forming a
spit.
95. Spurn Head at the mouth of the Humber estuary is a
fine example of a spit.
96. Local currents and changes in wind direction may
curve the end of the spit landwards creating a
hooked tip.
The presence of the estuary discharging river water
into the sea prevents the spit from developing into a
bar.
Such a feature is known as a recurved spit
wind
97. If a spit joins one part of the mainland to another it is called a
bar.