Physics in Sports

1. The Physics of
Surfing
Savana Mcmillon
Mr. G
Period 7
Wednesday, May 9, 2012

2. Mass and Shape
The surfboard and its rider
both have a center of gravity,
which is related to their shape
and mass. When riding the
waves, the rider can move his
center of gravity to shift the
board's angle in the water. For
example, moving toward the
tail of the board will cause the
nose to lift up from the water
in response to catching a wave.

3. Newton’s 3rd Law
According to Newton's
third law, every action
has an equal and
opposite reaction.
When a rider pushes
down one edge of the
board, that edge pushes
into the water, which
pushes back up against
the board. As a result,
the board starts to turn.
(F=MA)

4. Gravity and Buoyancy
When you are lying on your board in still water
waiting for the next wave, there are two
important forces at work: gravity and buoyancy.
Gravity: This force pulls on every atom in you and
in your board—yet it behaves as if it were acting
just at your center of mass. For most people, their
center of mass is located behind their navel in the
middle of their body when they’re standing up
straight. Your center of mass is your balance point.
Buoyancy:This is an upward force created by the
still water pushing up on the board and is known as
a hydrostatic force.

5. Torque
When the surfer moves back on the
board, gravity and buoyancy move out
of alignment and create a torque, a
twisting force, on the surfboard. The
board rotates until the forces are

6. Work Cited
1 http://www.exo.net/~pauld/
activities/surfing/
physicsofsurfing.html
2 http://blackmagic.com/ses/surf/
papers/physicsgrm.html