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step INSTITUTE OF PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT AND MANAGEMENT.
TABLE OF CONTENTS INTORDUCTION. FRENCH HISTORY DESIGN. YVES SAINT LAUREN. GIVENCHY. BRITISH FASHION DESIGN. ALEXENDER MCQUEEN. JOHN GALLIANO. AMERICAN HISTORY DESIGN. CALVINKLEIN. ITALIAN HISTORY DESIGN. VERSACE. PRADA. GIORGIO ARMANI.
IS FASHION IS GETTING WESTERNIZED.INTRODUCTION. Fashion exemplifiers the appearances of clothing but fashion can also include beautiful accessories. There are many fabrics that can put together to make professional style and display a designer individuality which may catch the eye and delight the potential buyers. Many fashions are popular in many cultures at any given time. Some of the high style couture designs may change quickly. The terms fashionable and unfashionable are employed to describe whether someone or something fits in. A fashion usually remains popular for about 1-3 years and then yet replaced by another fashion. A clothing style maybe introduced as a fashion but its use becomes a custom after being handed down from generation to generation. “Fashion is not something that exist in dresses only fashion is in the sky in the street fashion has to be with ideas the way we live what is happening” COCO CHANNEL
“Fashion what you adopt when you don’t know who you are” QUENTIN CRISP. I think fashion is important to us because it's a means of self-expression--it enables us to say something important to the world about who we are, or who we'd like to be. The clothes we wear say things about us (intentional or not), even to people we don't talk with directly. It addresses the fundamental human need to belong, to identify ourselves with a group of others like us--whether it's a lifestyle, a religion, a profession, or an attitude. As far as preferring name brands or not, I like both. What matters most is the comfort (physical and psychological) of the clothes. When I find a name brand I like, I look for other things from that same line, because they're likely to have something in common--the fit, the fabric, the style, the attitude. We also use fashion as a sort of protection, or armor. We have power suits, favorite black pants, a special shirt--something that flatters or boosts our confidence or makes us feel powerful or safe.
Fashion has evolved in the past hundred years just as it has over time--as our culture and attitudes change, fashion comes along with it. One thing I find interesting is that as women's socioeconomic status has evolved in society, the fashion industry has become less able to dictate to women what to wear.  Fashion still changes, and there is still a strong interest in following trends and looking of the moment—butit's considerably less important than it once was, and the prevailing sensibility now seems to be "I know this look flatters me, and I will continue to wear it regardless of whether or not this particular skirt length is considered "in" this year or not. I think women are still place a lot of value on knowing what's "in," but are less concerned with actually wearing it--we want fashion to fit our lives instead of the other way around.
FRENCH HISTORY DESIGN. French Fashion can be described as being elegant.  From the couture style of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Cardin to the experimental street style of Andre Courreges, French fashion is renowned for its sophisticated designs and innovative touches.  In 60s fashion, the French Fashion Designer Courreges developed a style that can be described as the moon girl look.  With sheer chiffon tops and clothes that contained controversial cut-outs and peep holes, this uniquely French fashion soon made huge waves in the fashion world.  Fashion items such as the thigh high skirts that were decked out in spacey white and silver colors dotted with geometric shapes continue to be striking examples of French Fashion. One of the most fascinating aspects of French Fashion is the way it is embedded in French society.  Paris continues to be the Fashion Capital of the world and it is no surprise to see why.  Considering that Paris is home to a gigantic fabric industry that works with couture houses, French Fashion will always produce different styles that will push the envelope and influence future generations of fashion.  A country that understands the importance of fashion on popular culture, fashion is taken very seriously in France.
Its role in French society has led to many developments of fashion styles influenced by popular culture.  For example, the Left Bank Look developed in the 1960s inspired by the budding political student movement of the time.  A daring style that was representative of the look of people in the streets, the Left Bank Look popularized narrow skirts, narrow tops, berets, and stripes.  This is the style that is most commonly associated with French fashion and had its biggest icon in actress Brigitte Bardot.  This look can be classified as timeless and its sultry but playful style is guaranteed to turn heads. Although French fashion lines like Dior and Louis Vuitton continue to represent the elegant element of French fashion, popular French Fashion today is an amalgamation of past styles.  New-rave fashions are a huge hit among boys while women are returning to a more modest, elegant look that is inspired by the 1950s.  With its thriving fashion industry and its reputation for having designers that have their finger to the pulse of emerging trends, you can expect French fashion to manufacture some of the most stylish fashions for generations to come.
YVES SAINT LAUREN.  After taking over as art director for Dior, Saint Laurent launched his first collection for the company, the Ligne Trapeze, that year. In 1960, Saint Laurent created his revolutionary "Beat Look" collection which used couture techniques to refine street style. However, his dramatic designs were too much for the house of Dior and a year later they lifted bars on his national service.  When he returned from service in 1962, Saint Laurent set up his own fashion house with Pierre Bergé and continued to rock the establishment. In 1966, he introduced le smoking, his legendary smoking suit, which prompted the consequent androgynous revolution. He is now credited with a range of other innovations including the reefer jacket (1962), the sheer blouse (1966).  In October 1998, Yves Saint Laurent showed his last ready-to-wear collection for the Rive Gauche label he had founded more than 30 years before. But, according to a sorrowful spokeswoman, the 61-year old designer was simply too overwrought to take his final bow.
In October 1998, Yves Saint Laurent showed his last ready-to-wear collection for the Rive Gauche label he had founded more than 30 years before. But, according to a sorrowful spokeswoman, the 61-year old designer was simply too overwrought to take his final bow.
GIVENCHY. A pioneer in many fields, Givenchy is the first designer to present a luxury collection of women's ready-to-wear (1954). His work combines elegance and classicism with audacity and modernity. "Separates" (1952), the bag-dress (1955), the funneled collar coat (1958), the enveloped dresses (1966), and the garments of printed textiles inspired by Miro, Matisse or Christian Bérard (the Eighties) are among his most original designs. Throughout the years the Givenchy brand diversified its activities. 1973 is a milestone year, as Givenchy enters the realm of menswear, with the launch of the "Gentleman Givenchy" line.
BRITIS FASHION DESIGN.   As in France the majority of British fashion houses are based in the capital, London. British fashion houses are associated with a very traditional , British style, elegant yet conservatives cuts fine yet not overly extravagant materials and a sort of noble , even imperial elegance such as that of traditional fifties debutantes gowns compared to the French chic.  The first fashion designer chrles worth was native of Britain although he made his name in Paris in the 19th century. British designers include PAUL SMITH, JOH GALLIANO, ALEXENDER MCQUEEN.
ALEXENDER MCQUEEN. He is one of the most influential British designers of our time. He has mastered 6 methods of pattern cutting from the melodramatic 16th Century to the brutally sharp tailoring which has become a McQueen signature. Before opening his own studio in East London in 1992. McQueen soon developed a reputation for controversy and shock tactics earning the title "enfant terrible"; and "the hooligan of English fashion". With trousers aptly named 'bumsters' and collections with titles like "Highland Rape". S His outrageous designs attracted a small but loyal clientele, including such influential fashion figures as stylist Isabella Blow, who purchased his everything from his first collection and was said to have persuaded McQueen to change his name from Lee to Alexander when he launched his fashion career.
The designer caused a huge stir in the fall of '98 with a show which included car-robots spraying paint over white cotton dresses and a disabled model striding down the catwalk on intricately carved wooden legs. McQueen stayed with Givenchy until March 2001. Some of Alexander McQueen accomplishments include being one of the youngest designers to achieve the title 'British Designer of the Year' in 1996, 1997 and again in 2001. December 2000 saw a new partnership for McQueen with Gucci Group acquiring 51% of the company with Alexander serving as Creative Director. Plans for expansion include the opening of stores worldwide and his perfume, Kingdom.
JOHN GALLIANO. JOHN GALLIANO is one of the most influential fashion designers of our time. Born in Gibraltar, he grew up in London and launched his own label before becoming chief designer of France's haute couture flagship, Christian Dior, in Paris. John Galliano has created the most spectacular fashion shows of our time. The inspiration for his first collection came from Danton, a National Theatre production on which he worked part-time as a dresser. There were jackets worn upside down and inside out – this was the early 1980s, deconstruction wasn’t yet part of the fashion vernacular – and romantic organdie shirts, accessorized with everything from magnifying glasses, smashed and worn as jewellery to rainbow-colored ribbons sewn onto the insides of coats. "I was just so into that collection. It completely overtook me. I still love it. I love the romance, you know, charging through cobbled streets in all that amazing organdie. There are a lot of things in that collection that still haunt me."
AMERICAN FASHION HISTORY. The majority of American fashion houses are based in New York although there are also a significant number in los Angeles where a substantial percentage of clothing manifested in the us is actually made Miami and Chicago, which was once a center of American fashion. American fashion design is dominated by a clean cut casual style, reflecting the athletic health conscious lifestyles of many American city dwellers.  A designer who helped to set the trend in the United States for sport influenced day wear throughout the 1940s and 1950s was Claire mccardell. Many of her designs have been revived in recent decades. More modern influences on the American look have been Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, tom ford.
CALVINKLEIN. In 1969, Mr. Klein, who was later described as "the supreme master of minimalism," appeared on the cover of Vogue magazine. By 1971, sportswear, classic blazers as well as lingerie were added to his women's collection portfolio. In 1973, he was awarded the Coty Award for the first time, which he received for three consecutive years, for his 74-piece womenswear collection. In the mid-1970s, he had created a designer-jeans craze by putting his name on the back pocket. In the late 1970s, the company also made attempts to set up its own fragrance and cosmetics business. In the 1980s, as the designer-jeans frenzy reached its all-time high, Calvin Klein introduced a highly successful line of boxer shorts for women and a men’s underwear collection
ITALIAN FASHION DESIGN. Italy and Fashion have a very unique and special relationship, and when you consider such names as Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Armani, to name but a few, it's not difficult to see why. But if we look back into the history of Italian Fashion, (e.g. see also the article on Nina Ricci) we start to understand what gave Italy such a status in the Fashion World. Count Giorgini started the 'Italian Fashion' craze in 1951, when he organized a fashion show to be presented to an International audience in Florence. He then continued to present other fashion shows at his palace, presenting new collections modeled by nobility against a backdrop of fine arts and scenery. Nobility would also model new collections at museums or exhibitions next to famous pieces of fine art. This all contributed to elevating the status of Italian fashion, and implanting in everyone's minds that Italian fashion gives you status, is very rich in quality, and almost 'fairytale' like.
In the 1970s and 1980s Milan made its mark as being the Fashion Capital of Italy, and the phrase Made in Italy became universally recognized as meaning 'high quality', and 'high fashion'. Today there are various fashion trade fairs in Milan, and it is considered by many to be the Fashion Capital of The World. Most of the older Italian countries are in Rome. However Milan is the Italian fashion capital and it is the exhibition venue for their collections. Italian fashion features casual elegance and luxurious fabrics. The first Italian luxury brand was Salvatore ferragamo among the known exclusive fashion names business week, Gucci ias the greatest selling Italian brand. Other well known Italian fashion houses include dolce gabana,. Emilio pucci, Versace, Giorgio Armani.
VERSACE. This is yet another Italian brand that oozes sensuality and glamor! Gianni Versace founded this designer label, Versace, in the year 1978.  Designer clothing of the Versace group has always used electric colors and fitting silhouettes for the woman. Versace for men, always teeters closely to slim silhouettes and cleans lines. Pop diva Madonna, drop dead gorgeous Angelina Jolie, sultry Jennifer Lopez and Hollywood hunk Brad Pitt are only some of the many elite customers of the Versace brand.
PRADA. The Prada label was begun in 1913 by Mario Prada when he began selling shoes, leather handbags and trunks. He opened two boutiques in Milan after experience in Europe and U.S.A.  The classic Prada suitcase was made of heavy walrus skin but as plane travel made heavy suitcases impractical, the company started to make lighter bags and high quality items made of crystals, tortoise shell and wood. They also sold garments of waterproof fabrics to the U.S.  . In 1970 she started making backpack bags out of waterproof fabric called Pocone. 1979 She took over the Prada family business. Since sales were down, she expanded into luxury tote bags and backpacks in black with flat classic lines, made from nylon
1985 She launched a line of footwear for women and her first pret-a-porter clothing line, using high quality fabrics. Her clean lines gave her fame, and she came to be known for under-stated elegant garments. 1993 She received an International award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America.  She won "Designer of the Year" award. 1998. Prada is now a worldwide empire, with stores in practically every country in the western world. It is a million dollar concern, with every celebrity wearing Prada clothes. Prada style
Her clothes, though often deceptively plain looking, have become widely influential. She gives traditional garments a modern handling, like trimming nylon parkas with mink and making trench coats and twin sets out of silk faille. It seems that the whole world craves Prada's ice-cool minimalism and deadpan eroticism .
GIORGIO ARMANI. Armani launched his career as a window dresser at a large Milanese department store. In 1964, armed with an in-depth knowledge of fabric and design, he was taken on as a designer for Nino Cerruti's men's clothing company,. In 1974, Armani introduced his own menswear label, his first womenswear collection coming a year later. Since 1975, Armani has overseen the launch of Giorgio Armani Junior, Underwear, Swimwear, Accessories and Occhiali. Capitalising on the cachet of his more exclusive label,  Nonetheless Armani claims to base his vision on the everyday people in the street, believing that clothes should be made to be worn not just seen and drawing on the skills he learned as a menswear designer to produce contemporary clothes for women. The wide-shouldered power suit that was a trademark in the Eighties has been softened into a more supple, practical silhouette and Armani's collections these days are elegant and understated (the designer has often expressed a dislike of "important" clothes).
SECTION 2 Fashion History of Pakistan
TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAKISTANI CLOTHING. HISTORY OF CLOTHING OF FOUR PROVINCES. PUNJAB. BALOCHISTAN. SINDH. N.W.F.P. LOCAL HISTORY OF PAKISTAN. LOCALS BRANDS OF PAKISTAN. ERAS :1970,1980s,1990s,2000. DESIGNERS: BANTO KAZMI, FAIZA SAMEE, NILOFER SHAHID, RIZWAN BEYG,TEEJAYS,DEEPAK PARWANI, HSY, MARIA BELAL. MEDIA.
PAKISTAN CLOTHING. The term "Pakistani clothes" refers to the ethnic clothing that is typically worn by individuals in the country of Pakistan and by those of Pakistani decent. Pakistani clothes express the people of Pakistan. These clothes range from exquisite colors and designs to the type of fabric (silk, chiffon, cotton, etc.). Different types of ethnic Pakistani clothes include: Saree churidar pajama Shalwar Kameez Lehnga Choli. Salwar kameez (shalwar qameez) is the national dress of Pakistan. Salwars are loose trousers designed in various styles. Originally, the salwars were flared towards the bottom with embellishments or fancy cutwork. Today, there are many variations of the same. At times, the bottom of the salwar is narrow and fitting. The salwar kameez is important especially during the festivals celebrated in Pakistan, for men as well as women. Salwar kameez is also popular due to the comfort factor. The salwar is tied at the waist with the help of a drawstring and more recently; elastic is also used for the same purpose. The fit is generally baggy or tapering. Narrow tight fitting salwars are known as churidars.
HISTORY OF CLOTHING OF FOUR PROVINCES. PUNJAB. BALOCHISTAN. SINDH. N.W.F.P.
PUNJAB. A kurta (also kurti for a shorter version worn by women) is a traditional item of clothing worn in Pakistan. It is a loose shirt falling either just above or somewhere below the knees of the wearer, and is worn by both men and women. They were traditionally worn with loose-fitting paijama (kurta-paijama), loose-fitting salwars, tight-fitting churidars, or wrapped-around dhotis;[1] but are now also worn with jeans.[2] Kurtas are worn both as casual everyday wear and as formal dress. A kurta is also referred to as a Panjabi,  Women often wear kurtis as blouses, usually over jeans.[2] These kurtis are typically much shorter than the traditional garments and made with a lighter materials, like those used in sewing kameez. Imported kurtas were fashionable in the 1960s and 1970s, as an element of hippie fashion, fell from favor briefly, and are now again fashionable. South Asian women may also wear this Western adaptation of South Asian fashion.
Formal kurtas are usually custom-made by South Asian tailors, who work with the fabric their customers bring them. South Asians overseas, and Westerners, can buy them at South Asian clothing stores or order them from web retailers. Punjab girls wear shalwar kameez with bright color dupatta. A dopatta is a colorful cloth that women wear around there neck.
BALOCHISTAN. A number of tribes constitute to make people of balochistan. The mode of dress among the baloch, Pashtoon, Brahvi tribes is very similar having a few  minor dissimilarities t. Turban is the common head wear of the men. Wide loose shalwar and and knee long shirts are worn by all so they still have there own eastern culture. The dress of a women consists of the typical shirt having a big pocket in front . Shirt normally having embroidery work with embedded small round mirrors pieces. Big dopatta and chaddar a long rectangular piece of cloth cascading down the shoulders and used to cover head used by the women.
SINDH. Womens are still very traditional overall but many wear colorful clothes while donning a chaddore on their heads. Men traditionally wear white and blue clothes and sometimes wear turbans or traditional sindhi cap on their heads. While the shalwar kameez and western clothing become common in sindh and it is replacing there own  dresses.
N.W.F.P. Pathans usually wear shalwar kameez with turban. There turban is a symbol of honour.women wear embroidered kameez which contain lot of glasswork. Peshawari chappal , chugha and chitrali topi are very famous. Warm shawls of wool are made in Banu.
LOCAL HISTORY OF PAKISTAN. During a period of almost 7 years there has been a marked changed in an over all structure of fashion industry which was initially considered a good earning business for housewives running small scale businesses at homes and designing bridals. With the emerging fashion awareness during the last 3 years people have started realizing the importance of a designer made outfit. For mot a good fit and what best suits them is fashion where as there are still others who stick to the complexities of hanging under an outfit which has a good tag on it. People are aware of western fashion.
The foreign designers labels are now becoming a part of elite fashion mostly or would it be more appropriate if I use only in our society. The choices have started to advance and there are new trends emerging. The opening of international designer’s outlets is settling on the front and it is believed that after a period of 8 to 10 years there would be a vital growth of foreign labels since wearing expensive labels is a matter of pride for those belonging to special people of our society. The major sub division of Pakistan industry. Generally in recent years western clothing styles have been greatly appreciated by different segments in Pakistan. These include corporate business fraternity, media world, sports professionals, bureaucracy and to some extent the political side. The business community developed a culture of westernized clothing after the advent of one after one multi national companies. Of course multinationals have a reputation for bringing their professionalism along in almost everything they do. Dressing also happens to play a role in the package.
LOCAL BRANDS OF PAKISTAN. OUTFITTERS. CROSS ROADS. LEVIS. STONEAGE. FIFTH AVENUE. YELLOW. These are brands working in western style in the local market.
ERAS : 1970, 1980, 1990, 2000: BANTO KAZMI. FAIZA SAMEE. NILOFER SHAHID. RIZWAN BEYG. TEEJAYS. DEEPAK PARWANI. HSY. MARIA BELAL.
BANTO KAZMI.   Oriental Fashions as Mrs. Kazmi's bridal wear without their trying – it is rare to see the design house in shoots or advertised in any form. It is to their credit that one of the oldest fashion houses has achieved its fame by word of mouth and reputation rather than being backed by fashion degrees and marketing strategies. One can’t help but feel as if Bunto has stepped out of the sets of Devdas into the real life hustle and bustle of modern day professions. If anything she is the fantasy part of the creations, which bridge the practical with the ideal. This has resulted in a design house that boasts creations at international levels and has been exhibited in museums globally
 More importantly, it defines our cultural identity and puts Pakistani couture on the map because of the commitment of the Kazmi institution. If anything she is the fantasy part of the creations which bridge the practical with the ideal. This has resulted in a design house that boasts creations at international levels and has been exhibited in museums globally. More importantly, it defines our cultural identity and puts Pakistani couture on the map because of the commitment of the Kazmi institution.
FAIZA SAMEE. Faiza Sami believes Pakistani embroidery has interesting influences that range from the Chinese to the Turkish Enlarge. From designing jodas for former Pakistan Prime Minister Benazir Bhutto’s wedding; to being commissioned by the esteemed Victoria Albert Museum, UK; to reviving the heritage of the stitches of Sindh; Pakistani designer Faiza Samee has clearly been there and certainly done it all. Born with an artistic bent of mind, Faiza Sami was one of the frontrunners of the fashion industry in Karachi at a time when there was no fashion school 25 years back. To my dismay, I discovered that ancient embroidery techniques were languishing due to lack of patronage. My journey into the fashion world began by sourcing these vintage fabrics and trying to keep our heritage alive.
Showing at Bridal Asia 2003 for the second time, Samee believes Pakistani embroidery has several influences that range from Chinese to Turkish. But her forte is formal and trousseau wear that focuses on making bridal wear really, really interesting,” Faiza Samee elaborates. Navratan, her collection, is inspired by jeweled hues such as emerald, garnet, ruby, jade and coral. Faiza samee never had the kurti revolution that was seen here, probably because most girls still prefer the fitted silhouette. This is the back to the ’70s look that had body-hugging kurtas teamed up with churidars, now that straight pants are out of fashion,” says Faiza Samee. Being one of the pillars of the fashion industry back home in Pakistan, she wants a fashion week there on the lines of India.
NILOFER SHAHID. Nilofer shahid, of the renowned fashion house meeras Her bloodline has been traced back to the royal family of Afghanistan and turkey. Her progressive and cultulary rich family has endowed her with a sensitive appreciation of the art and rich tradition of an ancient land. For nilofer, designing has always been a passion-and eloquent expression of her elegent sense of style derived. From Islamic art. although she has no formal training in fashion designing, her interest in couture led her to start  A little workshop in 1978 and she had been working in number of areas before evolving to become a fashion Designer.  Her initial venture in Lahore was in the field of hand painted and exclusive block printing after initial Venture outfits, which she introduce for the first time in Lahore and her exclusive design became extremely Popular. Her blocks were even in her early days, inspired by myghal carpets and miniature paintings in 1991, she started the fashion house of meeras, which today is one of the leading couture houses of Pakistan.
RIZWAN BEYG.   Rizwan Baig describes the fashion scene in Pakistan in 1986 as being on the 'brink of revolution' and 'brimming with radical ideas'. Rizwan Baig was one of those fashion radicals who broke all the rules. Rizwan Bayg casually commented on how beautiful Pakistani women were but how poorly dressed. These friends challenged him as a basic designer , to introduce some designs for women. He took up this dare out of sheer 'gumption and a stubbornness' to prove his point. Rizwan has never quite looked back. He was invited to put together a fashion show for charity and overnight Rizwan became the talk of the town. He explains the concept of fashion as he sees it.  Rizwan Beyg is sometimes irked at the international fashion culture which tends to clump together Pakistani fashion with Indian. "It's not the same thing at all. We have different identities and are coming from different places and going different places,. In that sense, we designers become ambassadors for Pakistan every time there is an international fashion show".
At the Asian BridaShow in Delhi, Rizwan displayed his work. He explains, "I did not wish to shock. Nudity is not the culture I've inherited. I believe in tradition". But Rizwan Beyg does not let his work get lost in the sea of zardozi work and other traditional embellishments used in bridal dresses.  He explains he likes to retain the essence of local bridal wear but likes to "play around with the concept". So he raises shalwar lengths, crops shirt lengths, fuses western sarongs with skirts and with everyone going crazy with colors, Rizwan Baig sticks to pastels. "I'm not a fashion victim and I like to keep my clothes whimsical". This led to the introduction of Rizwan's diffusion line. He was the first in Pakistan to introduce printed and designer voile and cotton fabric that targeted the masses. This was accessible and affordable wear and in his view, real fashion.
TEEJAYS. A whole generation has grown in the awe of Tee jays. It was way back in the early 1970s when they had arrived with a fresh concept of designing and stitching state-of-the-art shalwar-kameez. It brought about a revolution in the fashion circles.   Tee jays rocked the country becoming a household name in a remarkably short span of time. Because of the high quality of the product, they made early inroads in the international market as well and Tee jays earned customers all over the world. Tee jays became the lifeline of the entertainment industry in Pakistan as their dresses added graceful touch to the performing artists. They had made their debut by having designed for PTV wardrobes for that famous serial ‘Kiran Kahani’ in 1973.
Tee jays is recognized as the most prestigious brand and their product-line continues growing more than quarter of a century later when some other companies have also made their way to the market. They have been universally acclaimed as the pioneers of fashion industry in Pakistan, having provided the base for future for the creative designers, many of whom have gone on to make fortunes. ‘Tee jays Has Designs on You’ was the slogan that caught the imagination of the people. Their other slogans ‘What Levi’s is to Jeans, Tee jays is to Shalwar-Kameez’ and ‘Designing Shalwar-Kameez for the World’ also became very popular. They had come into being with the opening of an outlet in Karachi by the name of Tee jays Exclusive in 1970. They got themselves incorporated as a private limited company in 1977 and started domestic production the same year. By embarking to remodel and redesign the shalwar-kameez on using different fabrics they met with phenomenal success and they opened branches in different parts of the country. Thus began a journey that goes on and on.
TJ is much more than just an outstanding fashion designer and entrepreneur. He cares for the society and proactively contributes his bit in alleviating the pains of the people in need. He encourages and appreciates the creative persons and guides them to make the most of their talents. He is a patient listener who avoids jumping to a conclusion without getting the full picture The personalities like TJ are an asset for the nation. He is one the role models for the young generation who hold the key to the future. His attributes, in fact, are a source of inspiration for people of all ages. TJ may have crossed the age of 60 but he has lost none of the passion or the zeal that made him a celebrity. He has not been laid low by the odd bouts of illness either. His level of commitment to the profession and the cause of the nation are legendary.
He has created more than 5,000 shalwar-kameez designs and his dresses have made it to the wardrobes of over 150 television serials. But there are no hints of him being arrogant or even proud. Modesty has been one of his virtues. He commands respect for his clarity of thought and honesty of purpose. Rome was not built overnight. Neither has been the reputation of TJ. He has worked with missionary zeal over the years to get to the position he is in now. He has worked against the heaviest of odds to accomplish his cherished goals.
DEEPAK PERWANI. Deepak Perwani started his career at a mere age of 20 in 1994 with a men’s wear line that changed the face of men’s wear in Pakistan. The deconstruction of the sherwani made him the top men’s wear designer in the country.  He was barely 3 months old in fashion when this accolade was given to him by a national newspaper. Perwani has not looked back since then, having been called the bad boy of Pakistani fashion many a times.  He went ahead to launch his women’s wear line in 1996, with the opening of his flagship store in Zamzama. Mr. Perwani does 4 lines a year prêt and couture for both men and women. He’s not a conformist to the east per say and draws inspiration from everything that is the past present and the future. His forward thinking and modern approach to design has taken the Pakistani man and woman into the 21st century. His philosophy and astute sense of design has made him a fashion icon and his fashion house a source of inspiration for designers in Pakistan and abroad. Minimal embellishment and a total fusion between the east and the west makes him one of the foremost designers in the country.
At 28 he was chosen on to the board of governors of the Pakistan school of fashion design (P.S.F.D) affiliated with LA CHAMBRE SYNICALE DE LA COUTURE He represented Pakistan at the Royal Albert Hall in London and went ahead to be the first Pakistani to do a fashion week, (KLFAW) Kuala Lumpur Fashion Week. At 30 Mr. Perwani won his second Lux Style Award, opened his flagship store in Lahore, and the label Deepak Perwani went international to be stocked in London, New York, Dallas, Dubai and Singapore. He did the Castle India Men’s Fashion Week (CIMFF) and was quoted as the pride of Pakistan by the TIMES of India.   Mr. Perwani is currently working on the AHAN project under SMEDA, to support 180 women under the aik hunar aik nagar project in mirpurkhas, sukkur , mithi , ambh and mirpur sakro to elliviate poverty and help the poor women of sindh. His collection was recently shown at the Pakistani high commission in London under the patronage of the out going ambassador dr. maliha lodhi. His philosophy be Pakistani buy Pakistani and promote Pakistan makes him an immense asset to the and his vision a pride for all Pakistan.
The Perwani Man and Woman have no fashion boundaries, they don’t belong to a cultural caste or religion, they are children of the global village, and they are not scared of what they wear, how they wear it and how they project themselves. They are the people of today of what the future is, they wear their fashionbility on their sleeves, they are sexy, slick and conscious of their bodies, they are out to get the world and even a bit more when needed. Lace, garters, leather, studs, charms, expensive perfumes and bags, and oh yes and lots and lots sensuality, front row seats, best food and best wine, the best of it all . They are provocative sexy and they know it, they smoke cigarettes in holders and drink champagne, they are power hungry women by day and goddesses by night.  Underwear, shades, rings, studs, tattoos, piercing, scotch is what embodies the man. He likes his women and his fur. He is sophisticated and expensive. He is not scared of himself or his sexuality
HSY. HSY Studio specializes in bridal wear. he started out with evening wear, but for the last three years we have become known for our bridal collections. He also have a line called R2W, which is a ready to wear line. Then we have a Studio line, with Western clothes. We do a couture line, a men's line- a timeless, classic lifestyle that will fit well with today's fast paced modern life. he can easily clai. to be high end because we are not off the rack designers. ''HSY is about a lifestyle and not just about clothes, and that's what we want to sell - a timeless, classic lifestyle that will fit well with today's fast paced modern life - we are not off the rack designers''
He design for the woman of today and that's a strong, modern, independent woman not someone who would stay home all the time. A working woman who works hard and needs clothes that not only look like a million bucks but feel like a million bucks too. The fabric should be the best quality and the cut should be comfortable. The culture is all about celebrating your body and working out and she should be able to celebrate whatever she is doing for herself by wearing our clothes. I think Pakistani women are perhaps the most beautiful women in the world they are absolutely stunning. They have the Eastern aura of mystery which is very hard to capture with just any kind of clothes. So he keep that in mind even when I'm designing Western clothes.
MARIA BELAL. Maria Belal is an ambitious young Pakistani designer with vision. Maria launched her label ‘Maria B’ in Lahore few years back. Right after the fashion show in Pakistan, she opened the doors to her new women's boutique in Karachi. Her cotton shalwar kameez, choori daar pajama, and embroidered evening wear, all meticulously cut and stitched, were quickly snapped up by trendy Lahoris. The outfits she has selected – from a cotton sleeveless salwar kameez to black net culottes to a chiffon sari – embody her look for the modern Pakistani woman in the late 90s. She learnt that there was tremendous scope for Pakistani fabrics in the international market and was determined to make her mark globally. As she says with confidence, “I’m a staunch patriot – I want to take Pakistan’s name in the international fashion scene. I want to show people around the world what a great heritage we have. That really is the core philosophy of my business. We want to go into the international market and prove ourselves as a Pakistani brand name.”
 I want to show people around the world what a great heritage we have. That really is the core philosophy of my business. We want to go into the international market and prove ourselves as a Pakistani brand name.”
MEDIA. Media is a general term used to cover all  methods of transmitting a message. Media had play important part in transferring the western fashion here in Pakistan. In earlier days fashion was limited in geographical boundaries. There were lesson means for fashion to travel from one place to the other . Local markets produced type designer who designed with in their cultural boundaries. Fashion information about different parts of the world not greatly accessible. But the post 1990s world had a completely different story to tell. The emergence of global media provided fashion a channel to travel throughout the world. Fashion broke boundaries and cross culturing became the order of the day. Media made way for the global fashion industry in different forms. Movies, International TV channels, modern day advertisements  and above all the internet. Media provided information to designers about other parts of the world. It helped the designers to reach any part of the world they wanted. Fashion education and techniques were shared between cultures and countries.
                 SECTION 3
CONCLUSION.   So far we have discussed about what Pakistani clothing is and now over the past few years western clothing culture has influenced it. In my opinion cross culturing is a positive step for any nation. It has its pros and it has it cons. We’ll look at each of them in detail in our remaining discussion. This is as true of modern Western culture, including its defining qualities of materialism and individualism, as it is of other cultures Generally speaking, the influence of culture (in this broad sense) on health and well-being has been seen as distal and diffuse, pervasive but unspecified.  Culture may help to explain health differences within societies in several ways. role. As a first step, a dress code makes this identification with whatever role we are playing easier. The dress only helps bring out that distinct self.  variations in cultural characteristics between individuals and groups.
Despite the presence of certain conservative areas in Pakistan, one can see the effect of many cultures in the society. Pakistan today, shows a mix of various cultures and traditions seen in the dressing One feature still prevalent in Pakistan is the traditional clothing seen out here. There are many women and men who prefer to stick to traditional clothing of Pakistan although in cities majority  wears western attire
PROS. Following are some advantages brought by the westernized fashion and trends to Pakistan. In cross culturing I can see a lot change and new options in designing of the product. A wide range of products are available in the market. By the western culture I can see lots of new colors introduced. The cuts and new styles in dressing are very much in these days. There are lots of advantages to our local designers by the international exposure. The quality of the product has been improved due to awareness of better machines.
CONS.   The western culture can over shadow the local mannerism of clothing which is a great damage to a culture. Pakistan culture is fairly conservative and the westernized clothing culture is on the other extreme. This has  slightly widened the gap between the two classes. As each of them show their mentality by their clothing styles. As I am in favour of cross culturing I don’t think there are many disadvantages of cross culturing.
BIBLIOGRAPHY. www.yahoo.com www.google.com www.askjeeves.com www.wikipedia.com
MAGAZINES. Al Ostaura Kuwait magazine (MOSAED Al- Shallal) Vogue. FAQ. Brand (Muhammad Al Shatti) Alef. Another Magazine.
BOOKS. The beauty of Pakistan. Mohammed Amin.

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Fashion History Design Guide

  • 1. step INSTITUTE OF PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT AND MANAGEMENT.
  • 2. TABLE OF CONTENTS INTORDUCTION. FRENCH HISTORY DESIGN. YVES SAINT LAUREN. GIVENCHY. BRITISH FASHION DESIGN. ALEXENDER MCQUEEN. JOHN GALLIANO. AMERICAN HISTORY DESIGN. CALVINKLEIN. ITALIAN HISTORY DESIGN. VERSACE. PRADA. GIORGIO ARMANI.
  • 3. IS FASHION IS GETTING WESTERNIZED.INTRODUCTION. Fashion exemplifiers the appearances of clothing but fashion can also include beautiful accessories. There are many fabrics that can put together to make professional style and display a designer individuality which may catch the eye and delight the potential buyers. Many fashions are popular in many cultures at any given time. Some of the high style couture designs may change quickly. The terms fashionable and unfashionable are employed to describe whether someone or something fits in. A fashion usually remains popular for about 1-3 years and then yet replaced by another fashion. A clothing style maybe introduced as a fashion but its use becomes a custom after being handed down from generation to generation. “Fashion is not something that exist in dresses only fashion is in the sky in the street fashion has to be with ideas the way we live what is happening” COCO CHANNEL
  • 4. “Fashion what you adopt when you don’t know who you are” QUENTIN CRISP. I think fashion is important to us because it's a means of self-expression--it enables us to say something important to the world about who we are, or who we'd like to be. The clothes we wear say things about us (intentional or not), even to people we don't talk with directly. It addresses the fundamental human need to belong, to identify ourselves with a group of others like us--whether it's a lifestyle, a religion, a profession, or an attitude. As far as preferring name brands or not, I like both. What matters most is the comfort (physical and psychological) of the clothes. When I find a name brand I like, I look for other things from that same line, because they're likely to have something in common--the fit, the fabric, the style, the attitude. We also use fashion as a sort of protection, or armor. We have power suits, favorite black pants, a special shirt--something that flatters or boosts our confidence or makes us feel powerful or safe.
  • 5. Fashion has evolved in the past hundred years just as it has over time--as our culture and attitudes change, fashion comes along with it. One thing I find interesting is that as women's socioeconomic status has evolved in society, the fashion industry has become less able to dictate to women what to wear. Fashion still changes, and there is still a strong interest in following trends and looking of the moment—butit's considerably less important than it once was, and the prevailing sensibility now seems to be "I know this look flatters me, and I will continue to wear it regardless of whether or not this particular skirt length is considered "in" this year or not. I think women are still place a lot of value on knowing what's "in," but are less concerned with actually wearing it--we want fashion to fit our lives instead of the other way around.
  • 6. FRENCH HISTORY DESIGN. French Fashion can be described as being elegant.  From the couture style of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Cardin to the experimental street style of Andre Courreges, French fashion is renowned for its sophisticated designs and innovative touches.  In 60s fashion, the French Fashion Designer Courreges developed a style that can be described as the moon girl look.  With sheer chiffon tops and clothes that contained controversial cut-outs and peep holes, this uniquely French fashion soon made huge waves in the fashion world.  Fashion items such as the thigh high skirts that were decked out in spacey white and silver colors dotted with geometric shapes continue to be striking examples of French Fashion. One of the most fascinating aspects of French Fashion is the way it is embedded in French society.  Paris continues to be the Fashion Capital of the world and it is no surprise to see why.  Considering that Paris is home to a gigantic fabric industry that works with couture houses, French Fashion will always produce different styles that will push the envelope and influence future generations of fashion.  A country that understands the importance of fashion on popular culture, fashion is taken very seriously in France.
  • 7. Its role in French society has led to many developments of fashion styles influenced by popular culture.  For example, the Left Bank Look developed in the 1960s inspired by the budding political student movement of the time.  A daring style that was representative of the look of people in the streets, the Left Bank Look popularized narrow skirts, narrow tops, berets, and stripes.  This is the style that is most commonly associated with French fashion and had its biggest icon in actress Brigitte Bardot.  This look can be classified as timeless and its sultry but playful style is guaranteed to turn heads. Although French fashion lines like Dior and Louis Vuitton continue to represent the elegant element of French fashion, popular French Fashion today is an amalgamation of past styles.  New-rave fashions are a huge hit among boys while women are returning to a more modest, elegant look that is inspired by the 1950s.  With its thriving fashion industry and its reputation for having designers that have their finger to the pulse of emerging trends, you can expect French fashion to manufacture some of the most stylish fashions for generations to come.
  • 8. YVES SAINT LAUREN.  After taking over as art director for Dior, Saint Laurent launched his first collection for the company, the Ligne Trapeze, that year. In 1960, Saint Laurent created his revolutionary "Beat Look" collection which used couture techniques to refine street style. However, his dramatic designs were too much for the house of Dior and a year later they lifted bars on his national service. When he returned from service in 1962, Saint Laurent set up his own fashion house with Pierre Bergé and continued to rock the establishment. In 1966, he introduced le smoking, his legendary smoking suit, which prompted the consequent androgynous revolution. He is now credited with a range of other innovations including the reefer jacket (1962), the sheer blouse (1966). In October 1998, Yves Saint Laurent showed his last ready-to-wear collection for the Rive Gauche label he had founded more than 30 years before. But, according to a sorrowful spokeswoman, the 61-year old designer was simply too overwrought to take his final bow.
  • 9. In October 1998, Yves Saint Laurent showed his last ready-to-wear collection for the Rive Gauche label he had founded more than 30 years before. But, according to a sorrowful spokeswoman, the 61-year old designer was simply too overwrought to take his final bow.
  • 10. GIVENCHY. A pioneer in many fields, Givenchy is the first designer to present a luxury collection of women's ready-to-wear (1954). His work combines elegance and classicism with audacity and modernity. "Separates" (1952), the bag-dress (1955), the funneled collar coat (1958), the enveloped dresses (1966), and the garments of printed textiles inspired by Miro, Matisse or Christian Bérard (the Eighties) are among his most original designs. Throughout the years the Givenchy brand diversified its activities. 1973 is a milestone year, as Givenchy enters the realm of menswear, with the launch of the "Gentleman Givenchy" line.
  • 11. BRITIS FASHION DESIGN.   As in France the majority of British fashion houses are based in the capital, London. British fashion houses are associated with a very traditional , British style, elegant yet conservatives cuts fine yet not overly extravagant materials and a sort of noble , even imperial elegance such as that of traditional fifties debutantes gowns compared to the French chic. The first fashion designer chrles worth was native of Britain although he made his name in Paris in the 19th century. British designers include PAUL SMITH, JOH GALLIANO, ALEXENDER MCQUEEN.
  • 12. ALEXENDER MCQUEEN. He is one of the most influential British designers of our time. He has mastered 6 methods of pattern cutting from the melodramatic 16th Century to the brutally sharp tailoring which has become a McQueen signature. Before opening his own studio in East London in 1992. McQueen soon developed a reputation for controversy and shock tactics earning the title "enfant terrible"; and "the hooligan of English fashion". With trousers aptly named 'bumsters' and collections with titles like "Highland Rape". S His outrageous designs attracted a small but loyal clientele, including such influential fashion figures as stylist Isabella Blow, who purchased his everything from his first collection and was said to have persuaded McQueen to change his name from Lee to Alexander when he launched his fashion career.
  • 13. The designer caused a huge stir in the fall of '98 with a show which included car-robots spraying paint over white cotton dresses and a disabled model striding down the catwalk on intricately carved wooden legs. McQueen stayed with Givenchy until March 2001. Some of Alexander McQueen accomplishments include being one of the youngest designers to achieve the title 'British Designer of the Year' in 1996, 1997 and again in 2001. December 2000 saw a new partnership for McQueen with Gucci Group acquiring 51% of the company with Alexander serving as Creative Director. Plans for expansion include the opening of stores worldwide and his perfume, Kingdom.
  • 14. JOHN GALLIANO. JOHN GALLIANO is one of the most influential fashion designers of our time. Born in Gibraltar, he grew up in London and launched his own label before becoming chief designer of France's haute couture flagship, Christian Dior, in Paris. John Galliano has created the most spectacular fashion shows of our time. The inspiration for his first collection came from Danton, a National Theatre production on which he worked part-time as a dresser. There were jackets worn upside down and inside out – this was the early 1980s, deconstruction wasn’t yet part of the fashion vernacular – and romantic organdie shirts, accessorized with everything from magnifying glasses, smashed and worn as jewellery to rainbow-colored ribbons sewn onto the insides of coats. "I was just so into that collection. It completely overtook me. I still love it. I love the romance, you know, charging through cobbled streets in all that amazing organdie. There are a lot of things in that collection that still haunt me."
  • 15.
  • 16. AMERICAN FASHION HISTORY. The majority of American fashion houses are based in New York although there are also a significant number in los Angeles where a substantial percentage of clothing manifested in the us is actually made Miami and Chicago, which was once a center of American fashion. American fashion design is dominated by a clean cut casual style, reflecting the athletic health conscious lifestyles of many American city dwellers. A designer who helped to set the trend in the United States for sport influenced day wear throughout the 1940s and 1950s was Claire mccardell. Many of her designs have been revived in recent decades. More modern influences on the American look have been Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, tom ford.
  • 17. CALVINKLEIN. In 1969, Mr. Klein, who was later described as "the supreme master of minimalism," appeared on the cover of Vogue magazine. By 1971, sportswear, classic blazers as well as lingerie were added to his women's collection portfolio. In 1973, he was awarded the Coty Award for the first time, which he received for three consecutive years, for his 74-piece womenswear collection. In the mid-1970s, he had created a designer-jeans craze by putting his name on the back pocket. In the late 1970s, the company also made attempts to set up its own fragrance and cosmetics business. In the 1980s, as the designer-jeans frenzy reached its all-time high, Calvin Klein introduced a highly successful line of boxer shorts for women and a men’s underwear collection
  • 18. ITALIAN FASHION DESIGN. Italy and Fashion have a very unique and special relationship, and when you consider such names as Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Armani, to name but a few, it's not difficult to see why. But if we look back into the history of Italian Fashion, (e.g. see also the article on Nina Ricci) we start to understand what gave Italy such a status in the Fashion World. Count Giorgini started the 'Italian Fashion' craze in 1951, when he organized a fashion show to be presented to an International audience in Florence. He then continued to present other fashion shows at his palace, presenting new collections modeled by nobility against a backdrop of fine arts and scenery. Nobility would also model new collections at museums or exhibitions next to famous pieces of fine art. This all contributed to elevating the status of Italian fashion, and implanting in everyone's minds that Italian fashion gives you status, is very rich in quality, and almost 'fairytale' like.
  • 19. In the 1970s and 1980s Milan made its mark as being the Fashion Capital of Italy, and the phrase Made in Italy became universally recognized as meaning 'high quality', and 'high fashion'. Today there are various fashion trade fairs in Milan, and it is considered by many to be the Fashion Capital of The World. Most of the older Italian countries are in Rome. However Milan is the Italian fashion capital and it is the exhibition venue for their collections. Italian fashion features casual elegance and luxurious fabrics. The first Italian luxury brand was Salvatore ferragamo among the known exclusive fashion names business week, Gucci ias the greatest selling Italian brand. Other well known Italian fashion houses include dolce gabana,. Emilio pucci, Versace, Giorgio Armani.
  • 20. VERSACE. This is yet another Italian brand that oozes sensuality and glamor! Gianni Versace founded this designer label, Versace, in the year 1978. Designer clothing of the Versace group has always used electric colors and fitting silhouettes for the woman. Versace for men, always teeters closely to slim silhouettes and cleans lines. Pop diva Madonna, drop dead gorgeous Angelina Jolie, sultry Jennifer Lopez and Hollywood hunk Brad Pitt are only some of the many elite customers of the Versace brand.
  • 21. PRADA. The Prada label was begun in 1913 by Mario Prada when he began selling shoes, leather handbags and trunks. He opened two boutiques in Milan after experience in Europe and U.S.A. The classic Prada suitcase was made of heavy walrus skin but as plane travel made heavy suitcases impractical, the company started to make lighter bags and high quality items made of crystals, tortoise shell and wood. They also sold garments of waterproof fabrics to the U.S. . In 1970 she started making backpack bags out of waterproof fabric called Pocone. 1979 She took over the Prada family business. Since sales were down, she expanded into luxury tote bags and backpacks in black with flat classic lines, made from nylon
  • 22. 1985 She launched a line of footwear for women and her first pret-a-porter clothing line, using high quality fabrics. Her clean lines gave her fame, and she came to be known for under-stated elegant garments. 1993 She received an International award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America. She won "Designer of the Year" award. 1998. Prada is now a worldwide empire, with stores in practically every country in the western world. It is a million dollar concern, with every celebrity wearing Prada clothes. Prada style
  • 23. Her clothes, though often deceptively plain looking, have become widely influential. She gives traditional garments a modern handling, like trimming nylon parkas with mink and making trench coats and twin sets out of silk faille. It seems that the whole world craves Prada's ice-cool minimalism and deadpan eroticism .
  • 24. GIORGIO ARMANI. Armani launched his career as a window dresser at a large Milanese department store. In 1964, armed with an in-depth knowledge of fabric and design, he was taken on as a designer for Nino Cerruti's men's clothing company,. In 1974, Armani introduced his own menswear label, his first womenswear collection coming a year later. Since 1975, Armani has overseen the launch of Giorgio Armani Junior, Underwear, Swimwear, Accessories and Occhiali. Capitalising on the cachet of his more exclusive label, Nonetheless Armani claims to base his vision on the everyday people in the street, believing that clothes should be made to be worn not just seen and drawing on the skills he learned as a menswear designer to produce contemporary clothes for women. The wide-shouldered power suit that was a trademark in the Eighties has been softened into a more supple, practical silhouette and Armani's collections these days are elegant and understated (the designer has often expressed a dislike of "important" clothes).
  • 25. SECTION 2 Fashion History of Pakistan
  • 26. TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAKISTANI CLOTHING. HISTORY OF CLOTHING OF FOUR PROVINCES. PUNJAB. BALOCHISTAN. SINDH. N.W.F.P. LOCAL HISTORY OF PAKISTAN. LOCALS BRANDS OF PAKISTAN. ERAS :1970,1980s,1990s,2000. DESIGNERS: BANTO KAZMI, FAIZA SAMEE, NILOFER SHAHID, RIZWAN BEYG,TEEJAYS,DEEPAK PARWANI, HSY, MARIA BELAL. MEDIA.
  • 27. PAKISTAN CLOTHING. The term "Pakistani clothes" refers to the ethnic clothing that is typically worn by individuals in the country of Pakistan and by those of Pakistani decent. Pakistani clothes express the people of Pakistan. These clothes range from exquisite colors and designs to the type of fabric (silk, chiffon, cotton, etc.). Different types of ethnic Pakistani clothes include: Saree churidar pajama Shalwar Kameez Lehnga Choli. Salwar kameez (shalwar qameez) is the national dress of Pakistan. Salwars are loose trousers designed in various styles. Originally, the salwars were flared towards the bottom with embellishments or fancy cutwork. Today, there are many variations of the same. At times, the bottom of the salwar is narrow and fitting. The salwar kameez is important especially during the festivals celebrated in Pakistan, for men as well as women. Salwar kameez is also popular due to the comfort factor. The salwar is tied at the waist with the help of a drawstring and more recently; elastic is also used for the same purpose. The fit is generally baggy or tapering. Narrow tight fitting salwars are known as churidars.
  • 28. HISTORY OF CLOTHING OF FOUR PROVINCES. PUNJAB. BALOCHISTAN. SINDH. N.W.F.P.
  • 29. PUNJAB. A kurta (also kurti for a shorter version worn by women) is a traditional item of clothing worn in Pakistan. It is a loose shirt falling either just above or somewhere below the knees of the wearer, and is worn by both men and women. They were traditionally worn with loose-fitting paijama (kurta-paijama), loose-fitting salwars, tight-fitting churidars, or wrapped-around dhotis;[1] but are now also worn with jeans.[2] Kurtas are worn both as casual everyday wear and as formal dress. A kurta is also referred to as a Panjabi, Women often wear kurtis as blouses, usually over jeans.[2] These kurtis are typically much shorter than the traditional garments and made with a lighter materials, like those used in sewing kameez. Imported kurtas were fashionable in the 1960s and 1970s, as an element of hippie fashion, fell from favor briefly, and are now again fashionable. South Asian women may also wear this Western adaptation of South Asian fashion.
  • 30. Formal kurtas are usually custom-made by South Asian tailors, who work with the fabric their customers bring them. South Asians overseas, and Westerners, can buy them at South Asian clothing stores or order them from web retailers. Punjab girls wear shalwar kameez with bright color dupatta. A dopatta is a colorful cloth that women wear around there neck.
  • 31. BALOCHISTAN. A number of tribes constitute to make people of balochistan. The mode of dress among the baloch, Pashtoon, Brahvi tribes is very similar having a few minor dissimilarities t. Turban is the common head wear of the men. Wide loose shalwar and and knee long shirts are worn by all so they still have there own eastern culture. The dress of a women consists of the typical shirt having a big pocket in front . Shirt normally having embroidery work with embedded small round mirrors pieces. Big dopatta and chaddar a long rectangular piece of cloth cascading down the shoulders and used to cover head used by the women.
  • 32. SINDH. Womens are still very traditional overall but many wear colorful clothes while donning a chaddore on their heads. Men traditionally wear white and blue clothes and sometimes wear turbans or traditional sindhi cap on their heads. While the shalwar kameez and western clothing become common in sindh and it is replacing there own dresses.
  • 33. N.W.F.P. Pathans usually wear shalwar kameez with turban. There turban is a symbol of honour.women wear embroidered kameez which contain lot of glasswork. Peshawari chappal , chugha and chitrali topi are very famous. Warm shawls of wool are made in Banu.
  • 34. LOCAL HISTORY OF PAKISTAN. During a period of almost 7 years there has been a marked changed in an over all structure of fashion industry which was initially considered a good earning business for housewives running small scale businesses at homes and designing bridals. With the emerging fashion awareness during the last 3 years people have started realizing the importance of a designer made outfit. For mot a good fit and what best suits them is fashion where as there are still others who stick to the complexities of hanging under an outfit which has a good tag on it. People are aware of western fashion.
  • 35. The foreign designers labels are now becoming a part of elite fashion mostly or would it be more appropriate if I use only in our society. The choices have started to advance and there are new trends emerging. The opening of international designer’s outlets is settling on the front and it is believed that after a period of 8 to 10 years there would be a vital growth of foreign labels since wearing expensive labels is a matter of pride for those belonging to special people of our society. The major sub division of Pakistan industry. Generally in recent years western clothing styles have been greatly appreciated by different segments in Pakistan. These include corporate business fraternity, media world, sports professionals, bureaucracy and to some extent the political side. The business community developed a culture of westernized clothing after the advent of one after one multi national companies. Of course multinationals have a reputation for bringing their professionalism along in almost everything they do. Dressing also happens to play a role in the package.
  • 36. LOCAL BRANDS OF PAKISTAN. OUTFITTERS. CROSS ROADS. LEVIS. STONEAGE. FIFTH AVENUE. YELLOW. These are brands working in western style in the local market.
  • 37. ERAS : 1970, 1980, 1990, 2000: BANTO KAZMI. FAIZA SAMEE. NILOFER SHAHID. RIZWAN BEYG. TEEJAYS. DEEPAK PARWANI. HSY. MARIA BELAL.
  • 38. BANTO KAZMI.   Oriental Fashions as Mrs. Kazmi's bridal wear without their trying – it is rare to see the design house in shoots or advertised in any form. It is to their credit that one of the oldest fashion houses has achieved its fame by word of mouth and reputation rather than being backed by fashion degrees and marketing strategies. One can’t help but feel as if Bunto has stepped out of the sets of Devdas into the real life hustle and bustle of modern day professions. If anything she is the fantasy part of the creations, which bridge the practical with the ideal. This has resulted in a design house that boasts creations at international levels and has been exhibited in museums globally
  • 39. More importantly, it defines our cultural identity and puts Pakistani couture on the map because of the commitment of the Kazmi institution. If anything she is the fantasy part of the creations which bridge the practical with the ideal. This has resulted in a design house that boasts creations at international levels and has been exhibited in museums globally. More importantly, it defines our cultural identity and puts Pakistani couture on the map because of the commitment of the Kazmi institution.
  • 40. FAIZA SAMEE. Faiza Sami believes Pakistani embroidery has interesting influences that range from the Chinese to the Turkish Enlarge. From designing jodas for former Pakistan Prime Minister Benazir Bhutto’s wedding; to being commissioned by the esteemed Victoria Albert Museum, UK; to reviving the heritage of the stitches of Sindh; Pakistani designer Faiza Samee has clearly been there and certainly done it all. Born with an artistic bent of mind, Faiza Sami was one of the frontrunners of the fashion industry in Karachi at a time when there was no fashion school 25 years back. To my dismay, I discovered that ancient embroidery techniques were languishing due to lack of patronage. My journey into the fashion world began by sourcing these vintage fabrics and trying to keep our heritage alive.
  • 41. Showing at Bridal Asia 2003 for the second time, Samee believes Pakistani embroidery has several influences that range from Chinese to Turkish. But her forte is formal and trousseau wear that focuses on making bridal wear really, really interesting,” Faiza Samee elaborates. Navratan, her collection, is inspired by jeweled hues such as emerald, garnet, ruby, jade and coral. Faiza samee never had the kurti revolution that was seen here, probably because most girls still prefer the fitted silhouette. This is the back to the ’70s look that had body-hugging kurtas teamed up with churidars, now that straight pants are out of fashion,” says Faiza Samee. Being one of the pillars of the fashion industry back home in Pakistan, she wants a fashion week there on the lines of India.
  • 42. NILOFER SHAHID. Nilofer shahid, of the renowned fashion house meeras Her bloodline has been traced back to the royal family of Afghanistan and turkey. Her progressive and cultulary rich family has endowed her with a sensitive appreciation of the art and rich tradition of an ancient land. For nilofer, designing has always been a passion-and eloquent expression of her elegent sense of style derived. From Islamic art. although she has no formal training in fashion designing, her interest in couture led her to start A little workshop in 1978 and she had been working in number of areas before evolving to become a fashion Designer. Her initial venture in Lahore was in the field of hand painted and exclusive block printing after initial Venture outfits, which she introduce for the first time in Lahore and her exclusive design became extremely Popular. Her blocks were even in her early days, inspired by myghal carpets and miniature paintings in 1991, she started the fashion house of meeras, which today is one of the leading couture houses of Pakistan.
  • 43. RIZWAN BEYG.   Rizwan Baig describes the fashion scene in Pakistan in 1986 as being on the 'brink of revolution' and 'brimming with radical ideas'. Rizwan Baig was one of those fashion radicals who broke all the rules. Rizwan Bayg casually commented on how beautiful Pakistani women were but how poorly dressed. These friends challenged him as a basic designer , to introduce some designs for women. He took up this dare out of sheer 'gumption and a stubbornness' to prove his point. Rizwan has never quite looked back. He was invited to put together a fashion show for charity and overnight Rizwan became the talk of the town. He explains the concept of fashion as he sees it. Rizwan Beyg is sometimes irked at the international fashion culture which tends to clump together Pakistani fashion with Indian. "It's not the same thing at all. We have different identities and are coming from different places and going different places,. In that sense, we designers become ambassadors for Pakistan every time there is an international fashion show".
  • 44. At the Asian BridaShow in Delhi, Rizwan displayed his work. He explains, "I did not wish to shock. Nudity is not the culture I've inherited. I believe in tradition". But Rizwan Beyg does not let his work get lost in the sea of zardozi work and other traditional embellishments used in bridal dresses. He explains he likes to retain the essence of local bridal wear but likes to "play around with the concept". So he raises shalwar lengths, crops shirt lengths, fuses western sarongs with skirts and with everyone going crazy with colors, Rizwan Baig sticks to pastels. "I'm not a fashion victim and I like to keep my clothes whimsical". This led to the introduction of Rizwan's diffusion line. He was the first in Pakistan to introduce printed and designer voile and cotton fabric that targeted the masses. This was accessible and affordable wear and in his view, real fashion.
  • 45. TEEJAYS. A whole generation has grown in the awe of Tee jays. It was way back in the early 1970s when they had arrived with a fresh concept of designing and stitching state-of-the-art shalwar-kameez. It brought about a revolution in the fashion circles.   Tee jays rocked the country becoming a household name in a remarkably short span of time. Because of the high quality of the product, they made early inroads in the international market as well and Tee jays earned customers all over the world. Tee jays became the lifeline of the entertainment industry in Pakistan as their dresses added graceful touch to the performing artists. They had made their debut by having designed for PTV wardrobes for that famous serial ‘Kiran Kahani’ in 1973.
  • 46. Tee jays is recognized as the most prestigious brand and their product-line continues growing more than quarter of a century later when some other companies have also made their way to the market. They have been universally acclaimed as the pioneers of fashion industry in Pakistan, having provided the base for future for the creative designers, many of whom have gone on to make fortunes. ‘Tee jays Has Designs on You’ was the slogan that caught the imagination of the people. Their other slogans ‘What Levi’s is to Jeans, Tee jays is to Shalwar-Kameez’ and ‘Designing Shalwar-Kameez for the World’ also became very popular. They had come into being with the opening of an outlet in Karachi by the name of Tee jays Exclusive in 1970. They got themselves incorporated as a private limited company in 1977 and started domestic production the same year. By embarking to remodel and redesign the shalwar-kameez on using different fabrics they met with phenomenal success and they opened branches in different parts of the country. Thus began a journey that goes on and on.
  • 47. TJ is much more than just an outstanding fashion designer and entrepreneur. He cares for the society and proactively contributes his bit in alleviating the pains of the people in need. He encourages and appreciates the creative persons and guides them to make the most of their talents. He is a patient listener who avoids jumping to a conclusion without getting the full picture The personalities like TJ are an asset for the nation. He is one the role models for the young generation who hold the key to the future. His attributes, in fact, are a source of inspiration for people of all ages. TJ may have crossed the age of 60 but he has lost none of the passion or the zeal that made him a celebrity. He has not been laid low by the odd bouts of illness either. His level of commitment to the profession and the cause of the nation are legendary.
  • 48. He has created more than 5,000 shalwar-kameez designs and his dresses have made it to the wardrobes of over 150 television serials. But there are no hints of him being arrogant or even proud. Modesty has been one of his virtues. He commands respect for his clarity of thought and honesty of purpose. Rome was not built overnight. Neither has been the reputation of TJ. He has worked with missionary zeal over the years to get to the position he is in now. He has worked against the heaviest of odds to accomplish his cherished goals.
  • 49. DEEPAK PERWANI. Deepak Perwani started his career at a mere age of 20 in 1994 with a men’s wear line that changed the face of men’s wear in Pakistan. The deconstruction of the sherwani made him the top men’s wear designer in the country. He was barely 3 months old in fashion when this accolade was given to him by a national newspaper. Perwani has not looked back since then, having been called the bad boy of Pakistani fashion many a times. He went ahead to launch his women’s wear line in 1996, with the opening of his flagship store in Zamzama. Mr. Perwani does 4 lines a year prêt and couture for both men and women. He’s not a conformist to the east per say and draws inspiration from everything that is the past present and the future. His forward thinking and modern approach to design has taken the Pakistani man and woman into the 21st century. His philosophy and astute sense of design has made him a fashion icon and his fashion house a source of inspiration for designers in Pakistan and abroad. Minimal embellishment and a total fusion between the east and the west makes him one of the foremost designers in the country.
  • 50. At 28 he was chosen on to the board of governors of the Pakistan school of fashion design (P.S.F.D) affiliated with LA CHAMBRE SYNICALE DE LA COUTURE He represented Pakistan at the Royal Albert Hall in London and went ahead to be the first Pakistani to do a fashion week, (KLFAW) Kuala Lumpur Fashion Week. At 30 Mr. Perwani won his second Lux Style Award, opened his flagship store in Lahore, and the label Deepak Perwani went international to be stocked in London, New York, Dallas, Dubai and Singapore. He did the Castle India Men’s Fashion Week (CIMFF) and was quoted as the pride of Pakistan by the TIMES of India. Mr. Perwani is currently working on the AHAN project under SMEDA, to support 180 women under the aik hunar aik nagar project in mirpurkhas, sukkur , mithi , ambh and mirpur sakro to elliviate poverty and help the poor women of sindh. His collection was recently shown at the Pakistani high commission in London under the patronage of the out going ambassador dr. maliha lodhi. His philosophy be Pakistani buy Pakistani and promote Pakistan makes him an immense asset to the and his vision a pride for all Pakistan.
  • 51. The Perwani Man and Woman have no fashion boundaries, they don’t belong to a cultural caste or religion, they are children of the global village, and they are not scared of what they wear, how they wear it and how they project themselves. They are the people of today of what the future is, they wear their fashionbility on their sleeves, they are sexy, slick and conscious of their bodies, they are out to get the world and even a bit more when needed. Lace, garters, leather, studs, charms, expensive perfumes and bags, and oh yes and lots and lots sensuality, front row seats, best food and best wine, the best of it all . They are provocative sexy and they know it, they smoke cigarettes in holders and drink champagne, they are power hungry women by day and goddesses by night. Underwear, shades, rings, studs, tattoos, piercing, scotch is what embodies the man. He likes his women and his fur. He is sophisticated and expensive. He is not scared of himself or his sexuality
  • 52. HSY. HSY Studio specializes in bridal wear. he started out with evening wear, but for the last three years we have become known for our bridal collections. He also have a line called R2W, which is a ready to wear line. Then we have a Studio line, with Western clothes. We do a couture line, a men's line- a timeless, classic lifestyle that will fit well with today's fast paced modern life. he can easily clai. to be high end because we are not off the rack designers. ''HSY is about a lifestyle and not just about clothes, and that's what we want to sell - a timeless, classic lifestyle that will fit well with today's fast paced modern life - we are not off the rack designers''
  • 53. He design for the woman of today and that's a strong, modern, independent woman not someone who would stay home all the time. A working woman who works hard and needs clothes that not only look like a million bucks but feel like a million bucks too. The fabric should be the best quality and the cut should be comfortable. The culture is all about celebrating your body and working out and she should be able to celebrate whatever she is doing for herself by wearing our clothes. I think Pakistani women are perhaps the most beautiful women in the world they are absolutely stunning. They have the Eastern aura of mystery which is very hard to capture with just any kind of clothes. So he keep that in mind even when I'm designing Western clothes.
  • 54. MARIA BELAL. Maria Belal is an ambitious young Pakistani designer with vision. Maria launched her label ‘Maria B’ in Lahore few years back. Right after the fashion show in Pakistan, she opened the doors to her new women's boutique in Karachi. Her cotton shalwar kameez, choori daar pajama, and embroidered evening wear, all meticulously cut and stitched, were quickly snapped up by trendy Lahoris. The outfits she has selected – from a cotton sleeveless salwar kameez to black net culottes to a chiffon sari – embody her look for the modern Pakistani woman in the late 90s. She learnt that there was tremendous scope for Pakistani fabrics in the international market and was determined to make her mark globally. As she says with confidence, “I’m a staunch patriot – I want to take Pakistan’s name in the international fashion scene. I want to show people around the world what a great heritage we have. That really is the core philosophy of my business. We want to go into the international market and prove ourselves as a Pakistani brand name.”
  • 55. I want to show people around the world what a great heritage we have. That really is the core philosophy of my business. We want to go into the international market and prove ourselves as a Pakistani brand name.”
  • 56. MEDIA. Media is a general term used to cover all methods of transmitting a message. Media had play important part in transferring the western fashion here in Pakistan. In earlier days fashion was limited in geographical boundaries. There were lesson means for fashion to travel from one place to the other . Local markets produced type designer who designed with in their cultural boundaries. Fashion information about different parts of the world not greatly accessible. But the post 1990s world had a completely different story to tell. The emergence of global media provided fashion a channel to travel throughout the world. Fashion broke boundaries and cross culturing became the order of the day. Media made way for the global fashion industry in different forms. Movies, International TV channels, modern day advertisements and above all the internet. Media provided information to designers about other parts of the world. It helped the designers to reach any part of the world they wanted. Fashion education and techniques were shared between cultures and countries.
  • 57. SECTION 3
  • 58. CONCLUSION.   So far we have discussed about what Pakistani clothing is and now over the past few years western clothing culture has influenced it. In my opinion cross culturing is a positive step for any nation. It has its pros and it has it cons. We’ll look at each of them in detail in our remaining discussion. This is as true of modern Western culture, including its defining qualities of materialism and individualism, as it is of other cultures Generally speaking, the influence of culture (in this broad sense) on health and well-being has been seen as distal and diffuse, pervasive but unspecified. Culture may help to explain health differences within societies in several ways. role. As a first step, a dress code makes this identification with whatever role we are playing easier. The dress only helps bring out that distinct self. variations in cultural characteristics between individuals and groups.
  • 59. Despite the presence of certain conservative areas in Pakistan, one can see the effect of many cultures in the society. Pakistan today, shows a mix of various cultures and traditions seen in the dressing One feature still prevalent in Pakistan is the traditional clothing seen out here. There are many women and men who prefer to stick to traditional clothing of Pakistan although in cities majority wears western attire
  • 60. PROS. Following are some advantages brought by the westernized fashion and trends to Pakistan. In cross culturing I can see a lot change and new options in designing of the product. A wide range of products are available in the market. By the western culture I can see lots of new colors introduced. The cuts and new styles in dressing are very much in these days. There are lots of advantages to our local designers by the international exposure. The quality of the product has been improved due to awareness of better machines.
  • 61. CONS.   The western culture can over shadow the local mannerism of clothing which is a great damage to a culture. Pakistan culture is fairly conservative and the westernized clothing culture is on the other extreme. This has slightly widened the gap between the two classes. As each of them show their mentality by their clothing styles. As I am in favour of cross culturing I don’t think there are many disadvantages of cross culturing.
  • 62. BIBLIOGRAPHY. www.yahoo.com www.google.com www.askjeeves.com www.wikipedia.com
  • 63. MAGAZINES. Al Ostaura Kuwait magazine (MOSAED Al- Shallal) Vogue. FAQ. Brand (Muhammad Al Shatti) Alef. Another Magazine.
  • 64. BOOKS. The beauty of Pakistan. Mohammed Amin.