Industrial training partex denim ltd.

Department of Textile Engineering
Industrial Attachment
PARTEX DENIM LTD.
Banglabazar, Gazipur, Bangladesh

PARTEX DENIM LTD.
Banglabazar, Gazipur
May 20, 2011 to August 20, 2011
Prepared by:
Mohammad Israfil Alam
ID: 2007200400045
Batch: 6th
(FMT)
E-mail: israfil_tex@yahoo.com
Cell: 01717123339

Supervising Faculty:
Professor Syed Fakhrul Hassan
Chairman
Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Banani, Dhaka
Cell No.: 01711-698261
Industrial Supervisor:
Mr. Zainul Abedin Bhuyan
A.G.M (Weaving)
Partex Denim Ltd.
Banglabazar, Joydevpur, Gazipur

PARTEX DENIM
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Table of Contents
Acknowledgement...............................................................................................................................................10
Introduction...........................................................................................................................................................11
Company Profile...................................................................................................................................................12
1.1 PARTEX HOLDINGS:....................................................................................................................................13
1.2 Enterprises of Partex Holdings:..................................................................................................................14
1.3 PARTEX DENIM LTD:...................................................................................................................................15
1.4 Work-Time Schedule of the Factory:..........................................................................................................15
1.5 Satellite View: ............................................................................................................................................17
1.6 Factory Layout:...........................................................................................................................................18
1.7 Company Organogram:..............................................................................................................................21
Process Flow ..........................................................................................................................................................22
2.1 Process Flow Chart.....................................................................................................................................23
Yarn Store...............................................................................................................................................................24
3.1 Types of yarn used: ....................................................................................................................................25
3.2 Yarn count used: ........................................................................................................................................25
3.3 Supplier of the Yarn: ..................................................................................................................................25
3.4 Yarn Store Layout:......................................................................................................................................26
Warping ...................................................................................................................................................................27
4.1 Definition: ..................................................................................................................................................28
4.2 Objects of Warping: ...................................................................................................................................28
4.3 Importance of Warping:.............................................................................................................................28
4.4 Types of Warping: ......................................................................................................................................28
4.4.1 Direct Warping: .................................................................................................................................29
4.4.2 Indirect or Sectional Warping:...........................................................................................................29
4.4.3 Ball Warping: .....................................................................................................................................30
4.4.4 Draw Warping: ..................................................................................................................................30
4.5 Difference between High speed warping and Sectional warping: .............................................................30
4.6 Warping in Partex Denim:..........................................................................................................................31
4.6.1 Machine Specifications:.....................................................................................................................31
4.6.2 Warping Section Layout: ...................................................................................................................32
4.6.3 Machine Main Parts: .........................................................................................................................33
4.6.4 Functions of Different Parts: .............................................................................................................33
4.7 Briefly Description of Different Parts:........................................................................................................34
4.7.1 Creel: .................................................................................................................................................34
4.7.2 Comparison between H creel & V creel: ...........................................................................................34
4.7.3 Rods:..................................................................................................................................................35

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4.7.4 Chain system: ....................................................................................................................................35
4.7.5 Control Devices: ................................................................................................................................35
4.7.6 Headstock:.........................................................................................................................................36
4.7.7 Dust and Fly Accumulation Unit:.......................................................................................................37
4.7.8 Warping Plan:....................................................................................................................................38
4.7.9 Warping Procedure: ..........................................................................................................................38
4.7.10 Count wise Drum Pressure:...............................................................................................................38
4.8 Calculations:...............................................................................................................................................39
Dyeing & Sizing.....................................................................................................................................................41
5.1 Definition: ..................................................................................................................................................42
5.2 Objects of Dyeing:......................................................................................................................................42
5.3 Theory of Dyeing:.......................................................................................................................................42
5.4 Denim Dyeing:............................................................................................................................................42
5.5 Dyes use for Denim: ...................................................................................................................................43
5.5.1 Vat Dyes:............................................................................................................................................43
5.5.2 Sulphur Dyes:.....................................................................................................................................45
5.6 Denim Dyeing Process:...............................................................................................................................47
5.6.1 Rope Dyeing: .....................................................................................................................................47
5.6.2 Slasher Dyeing: ..................................................................................................................................49
5.6.3 Loop Dyeing:......................................................................................................................................50
5.7 Difference between Slasher and Rope Dyeing:..........................................................................................50
5.8 Sizing: .........................................................................................................................................................51
5.8.1 Definition:..........................................................................................................................................51
5.8.2 Objects of Sizing: ...............................................................................................................................51
5.8.3 Changes in Yarn due to Sizing:...........................................................................................................52
5.8.4 Why Sizing is called Heart of Weaving?.............................................................................................52
5.8.5 Techniques of Sizing: .........................................................................................................................52
5.8.6 Types of sizing according to application:...........................................................................................53
5.8.7 Size Ingredients and their function: ..................................................................................................53
5.9 Dyeing & Sizing in Partex Denim: ...............................................................................................................56
5.10 Machine Specification:...............................................................................................................................57
5.10.1 Creel section:.....................................................................................................................................59
5.10.2 Benlink:..............................................................................................................................................60
5.10.3 Accumulator: .....................................................................................................................................60
5.10.4 Pre treatment:...................................................................................................................................61
5.10.5 Pre-Washing (1-3 box):......................................................................................................................62
5.10.6 Dyeing:...............................................................................................................................................63

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5.10.7 Drying Zone: ......................................................................................................................................69
5.10.8 Accumulator: .....................................................................................................................................69
5.10.9 Sizing:.................................................................................................................................................69
5.10.10 Size Cooking Process:....................................................................................................................70
5.10.11 Drying Zone:..................................................................................................................................72
5.10.12 Accumulator:.................................................................................................................................72
5.10.13 Leasing Zone: ................................................................................................................................72
5.10.14 Expansion Comb:...........................................................................................................................72
5.10.15 Beaming: .......................................................................................................................................72
5.10.16 Transportation of Beams: .............................................................................................................72
5.11 Functions of chemicals used in Yarn dyeing:..............................................................................................73
5.12 Equipments used in dyeing lab: .................................................................................................................74
5.13 Chemicals used for dyeing and sizing:........................................................................................................75
5.14 Calculation: ................................................................................................................................................76
Weaving....................................................................................................................................................................77
6.1 Definition: ..................................................................................................................................................78
6.2 Basic Weave Designs:.................................................................................................................................78
6.2.1 Plain Weave:......................................................................................................................................78
6.2.2 Twill Weave: ......................................................................................................................................79
6.3 Classification of Modern Weaving Machines:............................................................................................79
6.3.1 Air-Jet Weaving: ................................................................................................................................80
6.3.2 Rapier Weaving: ................................................................................................................................80
6.3.3 Projectile Weaving: ...........................................................................................................................81
6.3.4 Water-Jet Weaving:...........................................................................................................................81
6.4 Weaving in Partex Denim:..........................................................................................................................81
6.4.1 Specification of Airjet: .......................................................................................................................82
6.4.2 Specification of Rapier:......................................................................................................................82
6.5 Looming:.....................................................................................................................................................83
6.6 Drawing-In:.................................................................................................................................................83
6.7 Tying-In:......................................................................................................................................................83
6.8 Basic Motion: .............................................................................................................................................83
6.8.1 Primary Motions:...............................................................................................................................84
6.8.2 Secondary Mechanisms:....................................................................................................................92
6.8.3 Tertiary Mechanisms:........................................................................................................................93
6.9 Special Features of PICANOL:.....................................................................................................................94
6.9.1 Unique Sumo main motor:................................................................................................................94
6.9.2 Picanol PC Suite:................................................................................................................................94

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6.9.3 Automatic full pick finding: ...............................................................................................................95
6.9.4 Exchangeable shed formation:..........................................................................................................95
6.9.5 Electronic Let-Off and Take-Up: ........................................................................................................95
6.9.6 Easy fitting and removal of warp beam and cloth roll: .....................................................................95
6.9.7 Perfect lubrication:............................................................................................................................95
6.9.8 Double pressure roller:......................................................................................................................95
6.9.9 Optimized sley drive:.........................................................................................................................96
6.9.10 Electronic Selvedge System and Electronic Rotary Leno:..................................................................96
6.9.11 Quick Step filling presenter (Rapier): ................................................................................................96
6.9.12 CANplus prewinders (Airjet):.............................................................................................................96
6.9.13 Programmable Filling Tensioner (Airjet): ..........................................................................................96
6.9.14 Clamp on the movable main nozzle (Airjet): .....................................................................................96
6.9.15 Argus filling detector (Airjet):............................................................................................................97
6.9.16 Fixed and movable main nozzles (Airjet):..........................................................................................97
6.9.17 New relay nozzles and valves (Airjet):...............................................................................................97
6.9.18 Adaptive Relay Valve Drive (Airjet): ..................................................................................................97
6.9.19 Stretch nozzle (Airjet):.......................................................................................................................98
6.10 Different Parts Manufacturers Name: .......................................................................................................98
6.11 Selvedge:....................................................................................................................................................99
6.12 Calculation: ..............................................................................................................................................100
Finishing................................................................................................................................................................102
7.1 Definition: ................................................................................................................................................103
7.2 Objects of Finishing:.................................................................................................................................103
7.3 Types of finishing: ....................................................................................................................................103
7.3.1 Physical/Mechanical Finishing:........................................................................................................103
7.3.2 Chemical Finishing:..........................................................................................................................103
7.4 Finishing In Partex Denim: .......................................................................................................................104
7.5 Process Sequence of Denim Finish Line: ..................................................................................................106
7.5.1 Brushing:..........................................................................................................................................106
7.5.2 J-Box: ...............................................................................................................................................106
7.5.3 Singeing: ..........................................................................................................................................106
7.5.4 Softening: ........................................................................................................................................109
7.5.5 Skewness Control: ...........................................................................................................................109
7.5.6 Dryer:...............................................................................................................................................112
7.5.7 Stenter:............................................................................................................................................112
7.5.8 Sanforizing:......................................................................................................................................112
7.5.9 Calendaring: ....................................................................................................................................114

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7.6 Mercerization:..........................................................................................................................................115
7.6.1 Physio-chemical changes during mercerization: .............................................................................116
7.6.2 Advantages of mercerization: .........................................................................................................116
7.6.3 Effect of mercerizing condition: ......................................................................................................116
7.7 Desizing: ...................................................................................................................................................117
7.8 Resin Finishing:.........................................................................................................................................118
Inspection..............................................................................................................................................................119
8.1 Inspection in Partex Denim:.....................................................................................................................120
8.2 Inspection Process: ..................................................................................................................................120
8.3 Four (4) Point System:..............................................................................................................................120
8.4 Machinery Description:............................................................................................................................121
8.5 Major Fabric Faults:..................................................................................................................................123
8.6 Quality Assurance Procedure:..................................................................................................................126
Research & Development ................................................................................................................................127
9.1 R & D Department in Partex Denim: ........................................................................................................128
9.2 Developed Samples:.................................................................................................................................129
9.3 Name of some Buyers: .............................................................................................................................131
Denim Wash..........................................................................................................................................................132
10.1 Denim Washing:.......................................................................................................................................133
10.2 Types of Denim Wash: .............................................................................................................................134
10.2.1 Desizing: ..........................................................................................................................................136
10.2.2 Bleaching: ........................................................................................................................................137
10.2.3 Stone wash: .....................................................................................................................................138
10.2.4 Enzyme wash:..................................................................................................................................140
10.2.5 Sand Blasting: ..................................................................................................................................141
10.2.6 Acid wash: .......................................................................................................................................141
10.3 Denim Washing in Partex Denim: ............................................................................................................143
10.4 Chemical Used for Washing: ....................................................................................................................144
10.5 Machine used in washing unit: ................................................................................................................145
10.6 Most Common Denim Washes: ...............................................................................................................147
Utilities ..................................................................................................................................................................153
11.1 Definition: ................................................................................................................................................154
11.1.1 Water Supply:..................................................................................................................................154
11.1.2 Boiler: ..............................................................................................................................................155
11.1.3 Generator: .......................................................................................................................................156
11.1.4 Air Compressor:...............................................................................................................................157
11.1.5 Chiller: .............................................................................................................................................160

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11.1.6 Humidification Plant:.......................................................................................................................162
Effluent Treatment Plant ...........................................................................................................................163
Process Flow Chart:...........................................................................................................................................166
11.2 Pre-Treatment..........................................................................................................................................167
11.3 Primary-Treatment...................................................................................................................................167
11.4 Secondary-Treatment ..............................................................................................................................168
Maintenance .........................................................................................................................................................171
12.1 Introduction: ............................................................................................................................................172
12.2 Types of Maintenance:.............................................................................................................................172
12.2.1 Reactive/Break-down Maintenance:...............................................................................................172
12.2.2 Preventive/Schedule Maintenance: ................................................................................................173
12.2.3 Predictive/Planned Maintenance:...................................................................................................173
12.2.4 Capital Replacement: ......................................................................................................................174
12.3 Functions/Elements of Maintenance Department: .................................................................................175
12.4 Requirements for Good Maintenance: ....................................................................................................176
Store & Inventory Control .............................................................................................................................177
Marketing Activities .........................................................................................................................................180
Security..................................................................................................................................................................183
Quality Assurance..............................................................................................................................................186
Discussion .............................................................................................................................................................192
Conclusion ............................................................................................................................................................193
References:............................................................................................................................................................194

PARTEX DENIM
Md. Israfil Alam Rana, israfil_tex@yahoo.com, cell: 01717123339
Page10
Acknowledgement
Firstly I would like to thank the Almighty Allah for giving me patience to conclude my internship program
& finally this industrial attachment.
Preparing the internship report based on “Fabric Manufacturing Technology (Denim)”, I have
understood that it is very difficult to find out the basic and fundamental aspects of fabric manufacturing
are largely distant from the theoretical bookish knowledge.
I express my heartfelt gratitude to Mr. M. S. Hasan, General Manager, Partex Denim Ltd. for giving me
permission for industrial training in his mill.
I am also thankful to Mr. Zainul Abedin Bhuyan, A. G. M. (Weaving), for his cordial support during the
period of internship.
After him I would like to thank Mr. Rafat Bin Hasan for his guideline and endless help. My gathered
knowledge about denim washing will not successful without his help.
From Preparatory Section I would like to thank Mr. Alamgir (Warping), Mr. Akash (Warping), Mr. Aziz
(Dyeing) for their guideline about Warping, Dyeing & Sizing process.
From Weaving Section I would like to thank Mr. Radhakanta Paul (Manager) & Mr. Sukanta Kumar (Asst.
manager) for their support. They helped me a lot about learning weaving process both airjet and rapier
loom.
I would like to thank Mr. Mahfuzur Rahman (Manager) from finishing section, Mr. Masud & Mr. Kaium
from R&D department. I have learned so many things form R&D department. Without their help it will
difficult for me to understanding the whole process. Special Thanks to Mr. Mogh (A.G.M) from utility
section. I have learned so many things in this section specially ETP.
I am very grateful and deeply indebted to our respected teacher Professor Syed Fakhrul Hassan,
Chairman, Department of Textile Engineering, Southeast University for his continuous support,
encouragement, suggestion, guidance and constructive criticism to get through the industrial training.
I thank to the management of Partex Denim Ltd. for giving me the opportunity to undergo Industrial
Training there.
Thus all in all it can be said that without their help it would not be possible for me to prepare this
internship report. So I would like to convey thanks notation to all who directly or indirectly contributed
and inspired me to time to time in preparing the report.
My gratitude also goes to all the employees of Partex Denim Ltd. for their sincere co-operation, support
and valuable advice which they have provided me during the training period.

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Introduction
If the theoretical knowledge is a glass of water then the practical knowledge would be drinking of water.
It is always very easy to make a man understand about a firebox by showing and lighting practically
rather than describing theoretically who has not ever seen a firebox. So, for any technical education the
practical experience is the most important as well as the theoretical knowledge.
As we are studying in a technical line, it is always important for us to gather the practical knowledge.
Through our study life the only biggest chance for us to combine the theoretical knowledge with the
practical knowledge is the “Industrial Attachment Period” that comes only once in the education life
when completing under graduate education. So we can easily realize the importance of Industrial
Attachment. And in addition the knowledge we gathered from the industrial training reflects in the
report of industrial attachment note book.
So industrial attachment is the process where a trainee can blend his theoretical knowledge with
practical knowledge which increased the ability of work, skills, performance and attitude and so on. It
also provides sufficient knowledge about production management, productivity evaluation, work study
& efficiency, industrial management, production planning and control, production cost analysis,
inventory management, utility, maintenance and so on. Industrial attachment makes us reliable to be
accustomed with the industrial atmosphere and also improve courage and inspiration to take self-
responsibility.
I have tried to my best to prepare this note book applying our best efforts. I have tried to gather all the
necessary information to make it a valuable for me as well as for everyone. I think it will help me a lot in
future practical life.

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Chapter One
Company Profile

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1.1 PARTEX HOLDINGS:
Partex Holdings is a conglomerate comprising 20 companies across diverse industries. Adjusting to the
ever changing global environment, it is an exodus from patrimonial management system to professional
management system, using the Partex name as a springboard that has been respected in Bangladesh for
50 years for its adherence to strong values and business ethics.
Founded by Mr. M.A. Hashem in 1959, the mother ship PARTEX’S early years were inspired by the spirit
of nationalism. Initially a major importer of consumer products and materials, fast transition to import
substitution made it possible to become pioneer in several industries of national importance in newly
independent Bangladesh. In more recent times, its pioneering spirit has been showcased by PARTEX
HOLDINGS, with direction from the competent next family generation comprising Mr. Aziz Al-Kaiser, Mr.
Aziz Al-Mahmood, Mr. Aziz Al-Masud, Mr. Showkat Aziz Russell & Mr. Rubel Aziz.
PARTEX HOLDINGS companies now operate in business sectors like communications and information
technology, energy, materials, services and consumer products. The major Partex Holdings companies
are Partex Plastics, Partex Denim, Partex Beverage, Amber Pulp, Amber Cotton, Partex Foundry Ltd.,
Partex Rotor Spinning Mills, Partex Spinning Mills, Dhakacom Limited, Partex Sugar Mills Ltd., Partex
Paper Mills Ltd.
We are, by and large, based in Bangladesh and have significant international clients. In tandem with the
increasing international footprint of PARTEX HOLDINGS companies, the Partex flagship is also gaining
international recognition.
In a short span of time, PARTEX HOLDINGS’ concerns have shown incomparable success. Partex
Beverage Ltd. has positioned at the 2nd position in the local beverage market being the sole official
bottler of Royal Crown Cola Co. To cater international demand, Partex Denim has been supplying 3
million yards per month with minimum lead time, superior quality at the best price, color consistency
and meticulous packaging. Our IT services are to cover all 64 districts by end of 2010 through Dhaka
com, which is also connected to all major Telecom Carriers in the country.
Going forward, Partex Holdings is focusing on new technologies and innovation to drive its business in
Bangladesh and internationally. Anchored in Bangladesh and wedded to traditional values and strong
ethics, Partex Holdings companies are building multinational businesses that will achieve growth
through excellence and innovation, while balancing the interests of shareholders, employees and civil
society.

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1.2 Enterprises of Partex Holdings:
Textiles
 Partex Rotor Spinning Mills Limited
 Partex Spinning Mills Limited
 Partex Rotor Mills Limited
 Amber Cotton Mills Limited
 Partex Denim Limited
Food & Beverages
 Partex Sugar Mills Limited
 Partex Beverages
Plastics
 uPVC Pipes & Fittings
 PP-R Pipes & Fittings
 Plastic Furniture
 Superware
 Accessories
Paper
 Amber Paper & Pulp Mills Limited
Real Estate
 Partex Real Estate Limited
ICT
 DhakaCom Limited
 BEPS
 Radio Dhaka
Trading
 Partex Trading & Shipping Limited
Agro Business
 Fisheries
 Agriculture
 Partex Foundry Limited

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1.3 PARTEX DENIM LIMITED:
Company Profile
Company Name : PARTEX DENIM LTD.
Company Status : Private
Owner : Mr. M.A.Hashem
Year of Establishment : 2005
Factory Location : Banglabazar,Joydevpur,Gazipur.
Corporate Office : House # 37, Road # 01, Block # 1, Banani
Dhaka-1213, Bangladesh
Web: www.Partexholding.com
Type of Factory : Fabric Manufacturing
Product : Denim Fabric
Annual Production : 22 million yards
Project Cost : 30 million US dollar
Total Area : 30 acres
Structure : Steel structure surrounded by brick wall
Total Employee : 1200 (250 executive & officers)
1.4 Work-Time Schedule of the Factory:
The Factory Runs 24 Hour A Day. It Maintains A Tight Work Schedule. That Is Shown In The Chart.
Section Number of Shift Duration
Warping 2 12 hours each
Dyeing 3 8 hours each
Weaving 3 8 hours each
Finishing 2 12 hours each
Utility 3 8 hours each
Security 3 8 hours each
Stuff & Commercial General Shift 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.
Top Management General Shift 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.

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Bangla Bazar
Rajendrapur
Chourasta
National Park
PARTEXDENIM
LTD.
Gazipur
Chourasta
Dhaka-Mymensingh
Highway
Mirzapur
Bazar
Kapasia
Dhaka-Tongi
Road
Joydebpur
Railway Station
Chandra
Factory Location Map

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1.5 Satellite View:
ETP
Humidification Plant
Yarn Store
Admin Office
Buyer rest house
Main Gate
Fabric Store
Utility
Weaving
Finishing
Garden
Warping
Dyeing & Sizing
Play ground
Entrance Gate
WTP

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1.6 Factory Layout:
Desizing
Resin Finishing
Mercerizing
Denim Finish Line 2
Denim Finish Line 1
R & D
Dyeing & SizingCreeling
Dyeing & SizingCreeling
Warping
Inspection & Packing
Dyeing Lab
A= Front Gate M=Mechanical office
B=Mosque T=Toilet
C=Sewing section R=Coating chemical store
D=Doctor G=Gate
E=Electrical office H=Warping & Sizing office
F=Finishing office → = Gate
S=Spare parts
K=Washing unit
W=Weaving office
Rapier loom
Airjet loom
625 feet
340feet
Total Space: 212500 square feet

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Partex Denim is a Premium Denim producer. It commenced its production in 2005 with the best and
latest machinery available in the world. The current capacity is two Million yards of Fabric per month.
On the fabric side, our product range includes weights from 4.5 ozs up to 14.5 ozs using multi-count/
multi twist ring/open-end yarn using CAIPO technology. We have two worlds best Benninger Slasher
Indigo dye range from Switzerland and Germany, which are capable of doing colored bottoming/topping
reactive colored denim/Sandwich/plus very deep indigo shades. Weaving is done on machines from
Picanol Belgium.
Most modern Weaving machines both in rapier and airjet version to get good productivity and to make
trouble free fabric even if it is made with coarser slub or spandex. Picanol Omniplus 800 and GamMax
rapier from Belgium where used some special device as per our requirement which can help to produce
better fabric than others mill though they used also same machine. The loom shed is totally humidified
and temperature controlled with enough air circulation and sufficient pressure to help machine and yarn
to make better fabric and always make the shed clean.
On the finishing side, we have Cibitex which is the most modern finishing range introduced in
Bangladesh for the first time by Partex. It has mini Stenter to keep fabric width same without any
variation. Sufficient brushing, singeing in both side, high quality skew device, bigger padder, sanforizer
and compacting device to make the fabric more clean and maintain shrinkage properly. Partex was the
pioneer of starting Flat finish fabric commercially in Bangladesh and is capable of doing a variation in the
Figure: Front View of Partex Denim Ltd.
Figure: Weaving Section Figure: Dyeing Section

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Page20
flat quality as per the buyers requirement. They can make Soft Finish, Flat Finish and Super Flat as well.
This machine was specially designed as per Partex’s requirement. Partex gives importance to inspection
machines also. To control proper tension and easy handling. Partex uses most modern machines with
conveyer belt with auto wrapping and packing.
On the quality side, Partex uses most modern and efficient lab instruments from Atlas UK which is
operated by trained technicians. The variable light box, Spectrophotometer, Rubbing tester, Washing
Fastness, Tensile strength tester etc. gives accurate results and helps to keep quality good and more
consistent.
On the development side, the R&D department is independent and equipped to promptly invent new
designs for new fashion and develop buyer’s requirements timely. This department keeps all documents
from dyeing recipe to fabric construction and keeps master roll to keep shade in same consistent even
over a longer discontinuity. Partex always researches to develop new fashion as per the world
requirement as well as to maintain comfort & durability.
Partex is manufacturing all kinds of denim fabrics in rigid and stretch in the following versions: Non flat,
Flat Super flat, Resin coated, Pigment coated, Over Dyed, PU coated, ECRU denim, RFD denim, Ash
colored denim, Reactive colored denim, Color denim. Partex is manufacturing bi-stretch commercially
for the first time in Bangladesh and coming soon with Organic denim fabric. There is no end in fashion.
They are also in the process of making Linen denim, viscose denim and so on.
On the environment side, Partex maintains a state of the art Water and Effluent Treatment Plant
meeting toughest international standards and always looks to make the working environment greener.
It has plenty of lush trees surrounding the plant premises. Partex maintains labour laws, gives all
facilities like medical, housing, leave, festival bonus etc to their employees.
Pacific Jeans, IDS Group, Kenpark Bangladesh Ltd., Liberty Fashion, Standard Group, M&J Group, Tusuka
Trousers, Shanta Denims, ABA Fashions Ltd., Regency Bangladesh Ltd., Jeacon Garments Ltd., Tanaj
Fashion, Windy Apparels Ltd., Swan Garments Ltd., Birds Garments, EPIC Designers, Brandix Srilanka and
many more.

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1.7 Company Organogram:
Asst. Manager
Shift Engineer
Sr. Production Officer
Production Officer
Asst. Production Officer
Chairman
Managing Director
General Manager
AGM
Preparatory & Dyeing
AGM
HR & Administration
AGM
Utility & Maintenance
Manager
Finance & Accounts
AGM
Weaving
Manager
Civil
Manager
Marketing
Manager
Commercial
Coordinator
Production
&
Marketing Maintenance
Manager
Preparatory
Manager
Dyeing
Manager
Finishing
Manager
Weaving
Asst. Manager
Shift Engineer
Production Officer
Trainee OfficerTrainee Officer
Asst. Manager
Shift Engineer
Production Officer
Trainee Officer
Asst. Manager
Senior Chemist
Chemist
Asst. Chemist
Trainee Chemist

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Chapter Two
Process Flow

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2.1 Process Flow Chart
For Warp Yarn
Yarn in Cone
Warping
Pre-treatment
Indigo Dyeing
Drying
Sizing
Drying
Beaming
Weaving
Singeing
Softening
Skewness
Sanforizing
Calendaring
Mercerizing
Stentering
Desizing
Resin Finishing
Inspection Packing Delivery
PreparatoryFinishing
For Weft Yarn
Yarn in Cone

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Chapter Three
Yarn Store

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3.1 Types of yarn used:
 Rotor yarn
 Ring yarn
 Slub yarn
 Polyester
 Lycra yarn
3.2 Yarn count used:
 For warp : 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 20, 30 (Slub + Normal)
 For weft : 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 20, 30 (Slub + Normal)
 Polyester : 300D, 600D
 Lycra : 10L40D, 16L40D, 200L40D, 300DL40D
3.3 Supplier of the Yarn:
 Partex Rotor Mills Ltd.
 Partex Rotor Spinning Mills Ltd.
 Amber Cotton Mills Ltd.
 Mahamud Denim Ltd.
 Sapphire Textile Mills Ltd.
 Indorma
 Shaoxing Xingji Import & Export Co. Ltd.
 Nishat Mills Ltd.
 Ashik Composite Textile Ltd.
 Salek Textile
 Purbani Rotor Mills
 Square Textile Ltd.
 Kader Synthetic

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3.4 Yarn Store Layout:
Total Space: 19950 square feet
175 ft
114ft
Gate
Gate

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Chapter Four
Warping

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4.1 Definition:
In general terms, warping is transferring many yarns from a creel of single-end packages forming a
parallel sheet of yarns wound onto a beam or a section beam.
The warp beam that is installed on weaving machine is called the weaver’s beam. A weaver’s beam can
contain several thousand ends and for different reasons it is rarely produced in one operation.
4.2 Objects of Warping:
 Construction of warp yarn beam.
 Construction of a parallel of yarn shift.
 Modifying the faults of yarn like thick and thin places, large knots etc.
 Winding the pre-determined length of yarn.
 Combination of small packages.
 Finding long length of warp yarn.
 Accelerating the next process.
4.3 Importance of Warping:
 The tension of wounds ends must be uniform and possibly constant during all the time of with
drawl from supply package.
 Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of yarn.
 Pre determined length of warping should be high.
 The surface of warping package must be cylindrical.
4.4 Types of Warping:
There are four types of warping, which are as follows:
1. Direct Warping
2. Indirect or Sectional Warping
3. Ball Warping
4. Draw Warping

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4.4.1 Direct Warping:
In direct warping, the yarns are withdrawn from the single-end yarn packages on the creel and directly
wound on a beam.
Direct warping can be used to directly produce the weaver’s beam in a single operation. This is suitable
for strong yarns that do not require sizing and when the number of warps on the warp beam is relatively
small. This is also called direct beaming. It can also be used to make smaller, intermediate beams called
warper’s beams. These smaller beams are combined later at the slashing stage to produce the weaver’s
beam. This process is called beaming.
4.4.2 Indirect or Sectional Warping:
In Indirect warping, a section beam is produce first. It is also called band warping or drum warping. The
section beam is tapered at one end. Warp yarn is wound on the beam in sections, starting with the
tapered end of the beam. Each section has multiple ends that are traversed together slowly during
winding along the length of the section to form the angle. Due to the geometry of the yarn sections, the
last section on the beam will have a tapered end that will make the whole yarn on the beam stable. It is
important that each layer on the beam contain the same number of yarns. The same length of yarn is
wound on each section. After all the sections on the beam are wound completely, then the yarn on the
beam is wound on to a regular beam with flanges, before slashing. This process is called re-beaming.
Figure: High speed/Direct warping
Figure: Sectional warping

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4.4.3 Ball Warping:
Ball Warping is mainly used in manufacturing of denim
fabrics. The warp yarns are wound on a ball beam in the
form of a tow for indigo dyeing. After the dyeing process,
the tow is separated and wound on a beam. This stage is
also called long chain beaming or re-beaming.
4.4.4 Draw Warping:
Draw Warping is combining the drawing of filament yarns with
heat setting and warping processes to achieve uniform
stretching and heating for improved dye uniformity, end to end.
It is used for weaving of thermoplastic yarns.
4.5 Difference between High speed warping and Sectional warping:
High speed warping Sectional warping
To produce common fabric To produce fancy fabric
High production Low production
Large no of yarn are required Small amount of yarn are required
Weavers beam is produced after sizing Weavers beam is produced before sizing
Creel capacity is greater than 1200 Creel capacity is greater than 300 to 400
Cone, cheese winding are used Flanged bobbin is used
Single yarn is used Twist yarn is used
Cheap process Costly process
Uniform tension Not uniform tension
Used very much Not used
Figure: Draw warping
Figure: Ball warping

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4.6 Warping in Partex Denim:
The warping section of the Partex Denim Ltd. is working under the A.G.M. of Preparatory Section. AGCH-
9240, UZWIL BENNINGER 2005 warping machine with v-creel is used here. The department is connected
with dyeing section directly and working 24 hrs. R&D department inspects the cones which is converted
in beams of required length and forwarded to dyeing section.
4.6.1 Machine Specifications:
NAME : BEN DIRECT WARPING MACHINE
Total Machine : 02
Model : AG, CH-9240 UZWIL BENINGER 2005
Origin : Germany
Year of Installation : 2005
Creel capacity : Max.: 520, Min.: 372
Winding Speed : Maximum 1200 m/min
Maximum Beam Diameter : 1250 mm
Air Pressure Required : 5-8 bar
Air Consumption : 2.5 – 3 m3
/hour
Power : 21-23 KW
Pressure of Drum : 600 daN
Maximum Length of Yarn Can Wind : Around 30000 m
Yarn Count : Both Ring & Open End yarn

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4.6.2 Warping Section Layout:
GateGate
Creel
Windingm/c
Dust Chamber
Creel

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4.6.3 Machine Main Parts:
Bobbin Stand/ Package Stand
Holder
Balloon Breaker
Creel Section Yarn Tensioner
Stop Motion
Yarn Guide
Cutter
Motor
Control Board
Beam clamping & De-clamping Zone
Machine Section Pressure Roller
Accumulating zone
Comb
Cleanvac Section
4.6.4 Functions of Different Parts:
Winding on
Winding Speed: 350 - 1200 m/ min
Encoder: Measure the surface speed of pressure drum
Motor speed gradually reduced with the increase of beam diameter
Inverter controls the motor speed
Yarn Parallelization
Each yarn is separated by comb
Each dent contains only one yarn
Combs are traversed by motor
Cleaning Combs are cleaned by compressed air automatically at a preset interval
Beam Clamping
& De -clamping
By motor
Cleanvac
Collects the dusts flying in the winding zone
Collects dusts by creating vacuums by suction fan
Accumulator
Accumulator is used for storage of yarn when need to unwinding the beam
for knot of yarn due to yarn breakage.

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4.7 Briefly Description of Different Parts:
4.7.1 Creel:
At the creel, the yarn packages are placed. The machine has travelling package V-creels. The max creel
capacity is 520 cones on one end and 560 cones on the other. When one end is on working then the
cones for next lot are installed on inner ends. After the one end’s stock ends then the creel is moved to
other side. Capstan tensioners are installed at the creel. Guide rods are installed at the creel.
4.7.2 Comparison between H creel & V creel:
H creel V creel
Parallel warping is used for sectional warping as
well as for direct warping.
V-creel is used for only in direct warping.
Suitable for comparatively low speed warping. Suitable for high speed yarn warping.
Needs proper yarn guides. No need of yarn guide
Provide low tension on whole beam. Provide uniform yarn tension across the whole
beam.
No free yarn from creel to the warping machine
because proper yarn guides are required.
Free yarn run from creel to the warping machine.
More time consumable because of low speed. Less time consumable.
More space is consumed. Less space is consumed.
In indirect warping, a constant speed drive is
generally required to provide approximately
uniform yarn speed on the surface of the beam.
Surface friction drive and variable speed drive is
commonly used to attain the uniform yarn speed.
H-creel has a wide range of package change
system. Example: with reversible package, with
unrolling draw off, with fixed package frames, with
package trucks, with swiveling package frames.
V-creel has a low range of package change.
Example: reversible frames, reversible frames with
automatic knotter, and with travelling package.
Figure: Creel Section

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4.7.3 Rods:
Steel rods in creel frame for yarn support and guidance also important for yarn tension. Due to their
structure, rotor yarns have special balloon dynamics. Ballooning is three times greater with rotor yarns
than with ring spun yarns and has its maximum elongation in the spaces between package and
tensioner. Two round metal rods with a smooth and friction-resistant surface achieve effective balloon
reduction.
4.7.4 Chain system:
Chain system is connected with motor. Use to rotate the creel frame in cone changing process. There
are two sides of frame one is in working and second side is stationary till the filling of new cones. Proper
oil lubrication is maintained in the system.
4.7.5 Control Devices:
Warp yarns are threaded through capstan tensioners and stop motions at the creel. These tensioners
are provided in order to provide necessary tension. When the machine starts running it remain closed
for a little time in order to straightening of yarns. After the machine comes in running they open
automatically to provide tension.
Figure: Control Device

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4.7.6 Headstock:
At the headstock, the warper’s beam is installed for winding. The beam width is 1800mm. A guide roller
guides the yarns to the warper’s beam. A pressing roller presses the warp sheet on the warper’s beam
for winding with proper tension.
The yarn build-up is determined by the tension of the warp threads and the press roller force. Uniform
thread tension from the middle of the beam to the outside, i.e. from the front to the rear ends in the
creel, must be assured. The press roller must ensure compact winding and absolute cylindricity.
The first requirement for non-crossed ends is precision thread guidance with minimal free thread
lengths from zigzag comb to beam. It must be possible to match the width of the thread sheet exactly to
the beam width to avoid errors at the flanges.
The presser roll is of hard paper and has strong end rings to prevent damage. The increasing yarn
diameter on the beam forces the press roller back against the resistance of the pre-set pressing force.
Thanks to this indirect pressing action the winding is always perfectly cylindrical. Upon braking, the press
roller is immediately swung away hydraulically. All friction between roll and yarn is avoided.
Figure: Headstock
Figure: Drum pressure on yarn

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The standard equipment is intended for back beams with 40° toothed internal taper. The teeth ensure
exact centering as well as non-slip drive and braking. The machine can also be configured to
accommodate journal beams. To avoid rolled-in threads, in the event of a thread break the direct
warper must be able to be stopped in a short distance, even at the highest speeds and with a fully
wound beam. This is performed by hydraulically operated disc brakes mounted to the both sides.
From the creel, the yarns are passed through the expandable zigzag comb. The required warper’s beam
width required can be set with the help of this comb.
Simple insertion of the threads into the comb. The stepped comb is moved apart to simplify laying in the
ends. The lateral alignment of the comb on the beam and the setting to the exact warp width are motor-
driven. The horizontal comb movement guarantees uniform yarn build-up on the beam. The traverse
can be set steplessly. Due to the vertical movement, the life of the comb is increased.
4.7.7 Dust and Fly Accumulation Unit:
On Ben Direct, a dust and fly accumulation unit is installed at the headstock, which sucks dust, fluff and
fly and prevent the warper’s beam from them.
Figure: Break System
Figure: V-reed

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4.7.8 Warping Plan:
The warper gets the required no of ends and the number of beams from the R&D department and then
he made the warping plan that how to complete that task whether on one creel or on more no. of
creels.
4.7.9 Warping Procedure:
The creel stand has maximum capacity of five cones per stand. The yarn from the cones is unwounded
and passes from rod by cross wound, holed by a catcher guided to the tensioning zone when cone
rotates anticlockwise. There are three types of tension in warping i.e. catcher tension, rod tension, and
sacker tension. Magnetic tensioner is used for yarn tension. Then the yarn comes to the winding zone or
headstock. Combs straighten the yarns towards pressure drum, which supports beam, and yarns in an
alignment so that each and every yarn end can wound separately. Static charges due to friction of yarns
on metal surface cause static charges, which are removed through an anti static device. Then the yarn is
wounded on beam in this way for a required length if beam is changed after one filling of beam then
knotting of yarns is made. Similarly if cones are finished on one frame side then trolley system of cone
changing is used in this way chains rotates the whole frame of empty side and new filled side of frame is
forwarded again knotting is done between the new cones yarn and already winded yarn. Extra yarn is
then removed through cutting. Sensors sense any type of yarn breakage and in case of yarn breakage
knotting is done.
4.7.10 Count wise Drum Pressure:
Count Drum Pressure (daN)
6 500
7 500
8 500
9 400
10 400
12 400
14 400
16 400
20 350

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4.8 Calculations:
Some examples are given below to show the concept of warping plans.
Problem: 01
If Weight of Bag: 50 Kg
Total Number of Cone: 18
Count: 7 OE
Then find out the length of yarn in one cone.
Solution:
Length of yarn in one cone =
Bag wt. × 2.2046 × .9144 × Count × 840
Totalnumber of cone
=
50 × 2.2046 × .9144 × 7 × 840
18
= 32926 m
Answer: Length of 8 OE = 32926 m
Problem: 02
If Set length: 21000 m
Count: 7 9 12
Ratio: 4:4:4
Find out average count.
Solution:
Average Yarn Count =
     
12 × 7 × 9 × 12
4 × 9 × 12 + 4 × 7 × 12 + 4 × 7 × 9
= 8.89
Answer: Average Count = 8.89

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Problem: 03
If, Set length: 21000 m
Total ends: 4464
Ends/beam: 446
Total beam: 10
Count: 7 OE
Find out the weight of yarn required.
Solution:
Weight of yarn in one beam =
Set Length × TotalEnds × 1.0936
840 × 2.2046 × count
=
21000 × 446 × 1.0936
840 × 2.2046 × 7
= 790 Kg
Answer: Total Yarn Required = 790 x 10 = 7900 Kg

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Chapter Five
Dyeing & Sizing

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5.1 Definition:
The process by which a textile material is to be changed physically or chemically, so that it looks mono
uniform colored is called dyeing. All commercial textile dyeing processes take place by the application of
a solution or a dispersion of the dyes to the textile material followed by some type of fixation process.
The dye solution or dispersion is almost always in an aqueous medium. A major objective of the fixation
step is normally to ensure that the coloured textile exhibits satisfactory fastness to subsequent
treatment in aqueous wash liquors. Dyeing is mainly depends on the type of fabric, structure of fabric
and the properties of dyes.
5.2 Objects of Dyeing:
 The textile goods are dyed uniformly with single color.
 To increase the attractiveness of the textile goods.
 To make the fabric suitable for various usage.
 To make the textile goods suitable for decorative purposes.
5.3 Theory of Dyeing:
The procedure by which dye stuff enters into the textile goods is called theory of dyeing. It is essential to
have certain degree of fastness properties when a dye particle is applied on textile goods. The whole
process of dyeing is completed by four steps as follows:
1. Dye molecules come to the fabric surface from the dye bath.
2. Fibre absorbs the dye molecule from the outer surface of the fibre to the internal surface of the
cellulose.
3. Migrates the dye molecules everywhere of the fibre molecules.
4. Anchoring or fixing the dye molecules to the fibre molecules by hydrogen or covalent bond.
5.4 Denim Dyeing:
The classical jeans were produced out of indigo-dyed Denim fabric. The special character of this fabric –
only the warp thread is dyed makes it necessary to carry out dyeing in yarn form. The yarns applied for
Denim were exclusively produced on ring spinning machines in former times. The development of OE
yarns by applying smaller rotors with a spinning speed of up to 200 m/min has led to the application of
OE rotor yarns both for warp and weft. The yarns applied for weaving must be of high quality, a high
fiber for strength, regularity as well as a small part of short-stapled cotton fibres belongs to the basic
features of the denim yarn. For regular jeans qualities the warp yarns are spun in a fineness of 50 to 90
tex, for the weft yarn the fineness ranges are mainly 75 to 120 tex. If Denim is made out of Tencel or
Modal especially for jeans shirts the finenesses are up to 25 tex.

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Indigo, sulphur and indanthrene are mainly used in the dyeing process. Two methods are applicable for
continuous dyeing with indanthrene dyes: rapid dyeing and vat dyeing. While processing the basic
colored denim, reactive dyes are used and fixed with hot caustic soda solution. The dyeing process is
mainly influenced by the dyestuff characteristics, dyeing temperature and necessary chemicals used in
the process. Indigo dye is the most popular choice as it has good depth of shade and suitable rubbing
and washing fastness.
When cotton yarn is dyed with indigo, it leaves a ring-dyeing effect, because of which the outer layer of
warp yarn is coated with indigo, and the core of the yarn remains undyed. This gives the denim garment
a unique ‘faded look’ and a rich blue shade after repeated use and wash. Originally, the warp yarns or
ends were put through the dye bath side by side to form a sheet of yarn, which passed continuously
through several dye baths, squeeze rollers or airing sequences. Specially two types of dyes are
commonly used in factory. Vat dye and sulphur dye. These two types of dyes are described below.
5.5 Dyes use for Denim:
 Vat Dyes
 Sulphur Dyes
5.5.1 Vat Dyes:
The name vat was derived from the large wooden vessel from which vat dyes were first applied. Vat
dyes provide textile materials with the best colour fastness of all the dyes in common use. The fibres
most readily coloured with vat dyes are the natural and man-made cellulosic fibres. Vat dyes are more
expensive and difficult to apply than other classes for cellulose such as directs, sulphurs, and reactive.
Indigo is a special case in the vat dye class. Indigo is attractive for its pleasing blue colour and for the
unique fading characteristics of garment dyed with it. Vat dyes are characterized by the presence of a
keto group. Vat dyes in keto form are water insoluble pigments.
Dyeing with vat dyes:
The application of vat dyes to cellulosic materials occurs in five stages.
Aqueous Dispersion:
The insoluble vat dye is dispersed in water.

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Vatting:
This step involves the chemical reduction of the vat dye to produce the soluble, reduced or leuco form
of the dye. This is achieved by Sodium Hydrosulphite, Sodium Hydroxide and water. The sodium
hydrosulphite chemically reduces the vat dye in the alkaline conditions created by the presence of
sodium hydroxide.
Absorption of dye molecules by the fibre:
The vatted dye molecules are substantive to the cellulosic material when this is introduced into the dye
liquor. To achieve adequate exhaustion, an electrolyte is added to the dye liquor and the temperature
may be increased depending on the specific vat dye. The application of the dye molecule to the fibre
occurs at temperatures specific to a particular vat dye and occurs in a range from 200
C to 600
C. The
addition of the electrolyte alters the equilibrium of the dye liquor so as to increase the substantivity of
the dye molecules for the fibre. During this stage of dye application the textile material must be kept
immersed in the dye liquor to prevent premature oxidation of the leuco compound.
Re-oxidation of dye molecules within the fibre:
Once within the polymer system of the fibre the leuco form of the vat dye has to be oxidized and
converted to its original colour and the insoluble form of the dye. Oxidation of the leuco compound can
be achieved by atmospheric oxygen although this is somewhat slow. In practice, a mild oxidizing reagent
such as sodium perborate is used to convert the soluble leuco compound into the original insoluble vat
dye.
Figure: Water soluble leuco form of indigo

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Soaping-off vat dyes:
During the previous stage some insoluble vat dye may be deposited on the surface of the textile
material. This has to be removed to prevent poor rub-fastness as well as a possible change of shade due
to the subsequent removal of this surface deposit. Soaping-off, which is the boiling of the dyed material
in a liquor containing some suitable detergent, removes this surface dye. The term soaping-off was
derived from the fact that before the development of detergents, soap was used to remove the surface
dye.
5.5.2 Sulphur Dyes:
These dyes are so called because they contain sulphur atoms in their molecules. The fibres most readily
coloured with sulphur dyes are the natural and man-made cellulosic fibres.
Dyeing with sulphur dyes:
Sulphur dyes are widely used on cotton mainly because they are economical to use. They have good to
excellent wash fastness and good light fastness in dark shades. Light fastness of pale shades is poor.
Sulphur dyes are usually dull in shade since the molecular structures are complex. As a class, the sulphur
dyes are not resistant to chlorine containing bleaches.
Characteristics of Sulphur and Luco Sulphur Dyes on Cotton:
Sulphur dyes have the dullest range of colours of all dye classes but are relatively inexpensive. They are
used to dye medium to deep, dull shades on cellulosic materials. There are several excellent blacks
giving dyeings with good wet fastness properties. In fact, when black, and deep brown, blue and dull
olive green shades are needed, with good washing and satisfactory light fastness at reasonable cost,
sulphur dyes are irreplaceable. There are few green sulphur dyes and no true reds. There are, however,
an abundance of blacks, blues, yellows and browns. On a world basis, sulphur dyes constitute one of the
major dye classes. Sulphur dyes are used in cotton dyeing for woven goods using jig dyeing machines
and also in continuous dyeing. They are commonly used for the continuous dyeing of corduroy. They are
now being used more widely in jet machines. Sulphur dyes are also used for dyeing denim olive, brown
and maroon, rather than the traditional Indigo blue, as well as to ‘bottom’ or ‘top’ Indigo dyed cotton
warps. To ‘bottom’ or ‘top’ means that a sulphur dye is applied either before or after the Indigo. The
fastness to wet processes and to crocking can be varied almost as required to satisfy the demand for the
faded look so popular for denim. This is achieved by allowing premature oxidation of the leuco dye
during dyeing, by using short dyeing times so that there is inadequate time for dye penetration into the
fibres, and by poor rinsing and soaping after dyeing. The dyeing can then be subsequently treated to

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produce the faded worn look by removing the surface colour. Although cellulosic goods dyed with
sulphur dyes usually have good washing fastness, it can be further improved by resin finishing. The light
fastness varies from moderate to good in heavy shades. A major characteristic of sulphur dyes is the
poor fastness to chlorine, which distinguishes them from most quinone vat dyes. Dyeings with sulphur
dyes cannot be bleached with hypochlorite. In fact, these dyes are readily distinguished from other
cotton dyes by their dark, dull colours and the bleaching that occurs when a dyeing is spotted with
hypochlorite and allowed to dry. Cotton dyed with some sulphur blacks becomes tendered on storing
under warm humid conditions. This is a consequence of the formation of sulphuric acid from oxidation
of the sulphur dye in the fibres. It can be minimized by thorough washing after dyeing before the
oxidation of the leuco dye, by a final alkaline rinsing with soda ash solution, and by resin finishing. Such
tendering is avoided by dichromate oxidation of the leuco dye.
Dyeing with Sulphur Dyes:
Initially the goods are wet out in the bath. Since the dyeing liquor contains appreciable amounts of
sulphide, copper fittings must be avoided. If wetting or penetrating agents are used these should be of
the anionic type since non-ionic surfactants form stable, non-substantive complexes with the leuco
thiols. An anionic product such as phosphated 2-ethylhexanol is suitable. The bath may then be set at
40°
C with some sodium polysulphide. Polysulphides in the leuco dyebath prevent premature oxidation
of the dye and reduce the tendency to bronziness of deep dyeing of blues, navies and blacks. An
addition of a sequestrant such as EDTA avoids precipitation of the leuco thiolate by calcium and
magnesium ions. The leuco dye is then added slowly and, since the leuco dyes only have low to
moderate substantivity for cellulose, some salt may be added initially, or in portions during dyeing, to
promote exhaustion. After dyeing the goods are rinsed, the leuco dye oxidised and the dyeing is soaped
as for a conventional vat dye.
Sulphur dyes usually have acceptable substantivity, particularly in the presence of salts, so that stripping
in a fresh reducing bath is not easy. Dyeing is often conducted at the boil but this decreases the degree
of exhaustion. Sulphur dyes require less salt than reactive dyes and usually have reasonable exhaustion.
Low sulphide leuco dyes require more salt and no polysulphide. They do not give good exhaustion in
heavy shades and the use of a low liquor ratio is recommended. For popular shades such as black, it has
long been common practice to use a standing bath. This is a dye bath that is re-used for subsequent
dyeings after addition of more reduced dye. Any free sulphur that tends to accumulate is dissolved by
addition of sodium sulphite to give thiosulphate. This prevents it sticking to the goods. The actual dyeing
temperature can vary. At higher temperatures around the boil, the bath exhaustion is less but
penetration of the leuco dye into the fibres is better than at lower temperatures.

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5.6 Denim Dyeing Process:
There are three processes in the practice for continuous denim dyeing:
1. Rope Dyeing
2. Slasher or Sheet Dyeing
3. Loop Dyeing
5.6.1 Rope Dyeing:
The indigo Rope dyeing technology for denim production is considered a superior dyeing technology, where better uniformity of dyeing is
achieved than other Indigo dyeing technologies like slasher dyeing.
Indigo rope dyeing was started in USA. Today rope dyeing accounts for a large percentage of warp yarn dyed for denim production. The system
offers highest production, due to continuous process, as there is no stoppage for set changes. In this dyeing method, maximum continuity of
shades and minimum danger of center to selvedge shade variation can be achieved. Flow diagram of rope dyeing is shown in figure. During
Figure: Rope Dyeing Range

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dyeing process, it forms a coating in the outer layers of the cotton yarn and fiber. This produces a ring of color around the cotton yarn, with the
core remains white core. This dyeing effect is known as ring dyeing.
Figure: Rope dyeing and subsequent sizing, Step 1: Ball Warper, Step 2: Rope Dyeing, Step 3: Long Chain Beamer, Step 4: Sizing
Indigo Rope Dyeing when dyeing according to the rope dyeing or cable dyeing method. 350 - 400 warp threads are bound on the ball warper to
very thick cables of 10000 - 15000 m length. On the continuous dyeing installation, 12 to 36 cables are led side by side, wetted, dyed and dried
after the dyeing process on cylinders and put into cans. Then the cables are dissolved to warps on the long chain beamer. The warps are added
to the sizing machine, sized and then led together to warp depending on the total numbers of threads. In practice, this method has proven to be
very good through obtaining an optimum indigo dyeing. However it is important that the cables have a constant tension in order to avoid warp
stripes. The disadvantage compared to other methods is that yarn breakages do occur more often.

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5.6.2 Slasher Dyeing:
In continuous slasher/sheet dyeing and sizing machine, direct warping beams are used, instead of ball warping logs in case of Indigo rope dyeing
system. The Slasher Dyeing machine is capable of handling Ne count form 9/s to 30/s (OE and Slub both). Typical schematic sheet dyeing range is
shown in Figure. At the back end of the slasher/sheet dyeing range, the direct warping beams are creeled. The yarns sheet from each beam is
pulled over and combined with the yarns from the other beams so that multiple sheets of yarns can be made. When dyeing according to the
sheet dyeing method, instead of cables the warp threads are fed to the machine parallel next to each other. These are much smaller compared
to the rope dyeing machines. Another advantage is that the cables don’t need to be open after dyeing.
Moreover, each yarn wets much faster and in this way reduces the dipping and wetting times during dyeing. All in all, each thread has a larger
surface compared to a dyeing cable and this requires somewhat more hydrosulphite to prevent a premature oxidation of the indigo.
Figure: Sheet Dyeing Range

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5.6.3 Loop Dyeing:
In the loop dyeing process, the yarn is dyed in a single bath instead of several. The desired depth of color
is attained by passing the yarn through the vat several times. Subsequently, as a part of the same
process, the yarn is sized. The advantages and disadvantages of loop dyeing are the same as with sheet
dyeing.
5.7 Difference between Slasher and Rope Dyeing:
Comparison On Slasher Dyeing Rope Dyeing
Required Space Less More
Mercerizing Easy Difficult
Manpower Less More
Dye bath Less capacity More
Broken end repairing Not Possible
In rope dyeing there is a possibility
to repair broken end in LCB (Long
Chain Beamer)
Flexibility
Flexibility to produce denim in
different colors and small quantities
Less flexible. Difficult to change
colors.
Set change
Machines should start and stop at the
time of set change. Hence shade
matching is not easier until hundreds
of meters of yarn run.
No need to start and stop the
machine at the time of set change.
Hence shade matching is easier.
Extra ends Extra ends Required. No extra ends.
Different colour mixing Not possible
Possible to mix ends of different
colours. One can get stripe design
at re-beaming.
Count range
Advantages for lighter yarn. Can use
Ne 1-30 without major change.
Large numbers of yarns are difficult
to open at re-beaming. Hence it is
not suitable for fine yarn. Can use
Ne1-16 without major change. In
latest machines even higher yarn
count can be dyed.
Rear view characteristics
of fabric
Less thin / thick & knot points High thin / thick & knot points
Dye dipping time for
effective dye result
< = 14s ( standard 10 – 14s regulated
by speed)
< = 21s ( standard 15 – 21s
regulated by speed)
Production capacity
Approx. 9 to 11 mill. Mt. in case of
normal capacity. Approx. 10 to 22
mill. Mt. in case of double capacity.
12 ropes = 9 to 11.5 mill. Mt.,
24 ropes = 18 to 23 mill. Mt.,
36 ropes = 27 to 34.5 mill. Mt.
Cost
Cost of production is lesser compared
to Rope Dyeing
Cost of production is more
compared to sheet Dyeing

PARTEX DENIM
Page51
Relative merits and demerits:
 Generally rope dyeing denim range produces better quality of denim than slasher dyeing.
 Rope dyeing means for higher production and long runs. Ropes dyeing can more lots without
any stoppages at set change. In case of sheet dyeing, the machine remains stop at set change.
 In rope dyeing better dry and wet fastness properties in denim fabric can be achieved, than
sheet dyeing.
 In sheet dyeing good quality yarn is required, as mending of broken ends is very difficult in sheet
dyeing. This problem is less in rope dyeing.
 Sheet dyeing produces more waste than rope dyeing.
 Lot to lot, set to set shade consistency is better in rope dyeing,
 In sheet dyeing, there is a problem of center to selvedge shade variation. This can be caused due
to uneven nip pressure, non-uniform chemical and colour content in dye boxes. This problem
can also occur in rope dyeing as well. But proper rotation of the dried yarn cans at spreading
and winding and even distribution of warp yarns over the full width of the fabric minimize the
problem.
 The wetting and immersion time, oxidation time of dyed yarn are less in sheet dyeing due to
parallel warp threads.
5.8 Sizing:
5.8.1 Definition:
The process of applying a protective adhesive coating upon the yarn surface is called sizing. This is the
most important operation to attain maximum weaving efficiency specially for blended and filament
yarns.
5.8.2 Objects of Sizing:
 To improve the weave ability of warp yarn.
 To increase the tensile or breaking strength for cellulose yarn.
 To maintain good quality fabric.
 To reduce hairiness, weakness of textile materials.
 To remove electrolytic formation for synthetic or blended yarn.
 To increase elasticity.

PARTEX DENIM
Page52
5.8.3 Changes in Yarn due to Sizing:
 Breaking strength: Increase
 Abrasion Resistance: Increase
 Stiffness: Increase
 Elasticity: Increase
 Frictional Resistance: Increase
 Yarn Diameter: Increase
 Extension: Decrease
 Electrostatic Charger: Decrease
 Hairiness: Decrease
5.8.4 Why Sizing is called Heart of Weaving?
 Higher Strength
 Higher Elasticity
 Higher Smoothness
 Higher yarn diameter
 Higher weight of yarn
 Lower static electricity
 Lower weakness
 Lower absorbency
 Lower flexibility
 Lower hairiness
 Higher frictional resistance
5.8.5 Techniques of Sizing:
There are several techniques to impart size materials into the yarn. These are:
 Hot melt sizing
 Foam sizing
 High pressure sizing
 Electrostatic sizing
 Emulsion sizing
 Combined sizing
 Slasher sizing

PARTEX DENIM
Page53
5.8.6 Types of sizing according to application:
 Pure sizing: When sizing is done in yarn which produces unbleached fabric is called pure sizing.
So, ingredients are on the weight of yarn 7 to 10%.
 Light sizing: This is used for dyeing and printing. 11 to 15% sizing ingredients are used on the
weight of yarn.
 Medium sizing: For increase of strength and weight of the yarn 16 to 40% sizing ingredients are
used on the weight of yarn.
 Heavy sizing: It is used to increase the weight of yarn. Above 40% sizing ingredients are used on
the weight of yarn.
5.8.7 Size Ingredients and their function:
5.8.7.1 Starch or Adhesive:
The carbohydrate component extracted from certain plates is called starch. Example: Starch not maize,
corn, potato etc.
Function:
 To improve the strength
 To increase smoothness
 To increase elasticity
 To increase stiffness
 To impart adhesion
5.8.7.2 Softening Agents:
The agent which is used to give fabrics a soft handle and frequently smooth appearance is called
softening or lubricating agent. Example: Japan wax, tallow, lin seed oil, coconut oil, animal fats, mineral
oil, T.R.O., soap etc.
Function:
 To make the yarn soft and slippery
 To smoothen the yarn
 To reduce the stiffness
 To reduce flexibility and friction

PARTEX DENIM
Page54
5.8.7.3 Antiseptic or Anti mildew Agent:
The substances which prevent the mildew formation is called anti-mildew agent. Example: Carboxylic
acid, salicylic acid, Zinc chloride, phenol etc.
Function:
 To prevent mildew formation
 To prevent size material for a long time
 To help to store the size yarn
 To protect yarn from bacteria or fungi.
5.8.7.4 Hygroscopic Agents:
The agents which are used to moisture yarn and to prevent excessive drying of yarn is called hygroscopic
agent. Example: MgCl2, CaCl2, Glycerin etc.
Function:
 To moisture the yarn
 To prevent excessive prevent of yarn
5.8.7.5 Weighting Agents:
The agent which is used to increase weight of yarn and to impart the fullness and feel to the fabric is
called weighting agents. Example: China clay, Sodium Sulphate, French chalk etc.
Functions:
 To increase the weight of yarn during finishing
 To impart fullness and to fell the fabric
 To prevent opening of the cloth.
5.8.7.6 Tinting Agents:
The agent which is used for the temporary coloration of textile materials is called tinting agents.
Example: Blue, Tinapol, Optical brightener etc.
Function:
 To increase the brightness and to remove the yellowish color of yarn
 To prevent dusting off
 To form a particular shade

PARTEX DENIM
Page55
5.8.7.7 Wetting Agents:
The agents which are used for uniform distribution of the sizing solution is called wetting agent.
Example: Sulphanol, soap, MgCl2 etc.
Function:
 To increase size exhaust
 To obtain a distribution of the sizing solution
5.8.7.8 Antifoaming Agents:
The substrates which prevent the foam formation is called antifoaming agent. Example: Pyridine,
Benzene etc.
Function:
 To prevent foam formation
 To give uniform size pickup
5.8.7.9 Neutralizing Agents:
This type of agent is used to neutralize the sizing solution.

PARTEX DENIM
Page56
5.9 Dyeing & Sizing in Partex Denim:
In Partex Denim, dyeing of warp beam is carried out by Slasher dyeing process. World class Benninger
Slasher dyeing machines are using here. There are two slasher in this section. Normally it is said that in
Slasher dyeing shade variation is a normal practice but one who achieve the minimum variation is
market leader. Because it is very much economical than rope dyeing. So in less investment there is
margin of great profit. Slasher is normally operated at a speed of 30 m/min. There are two working
shifts in the department each of 12 hours a day. Input of dyeing department is beams from warping
department. Output of dyeing department is dyed warp sheet beams which are forwarded to weaving
department. It has well equipped dyeing lab. All controls of dying process is monitored from here by
computer.
Different portion and their model:
Machine Portion Model Name
Creeling and linking Ben link
Dyeing Ben indigo
Sizing Ben size tech
Dye kitchen Ben dye mix
Total machine Benninger Zeel
The salient features of the machine:
 Optimum dye fastness and uniform dyeing.
 High dye batch stability ensured by cross flow circulation and Continuous metering.
 Reproducible computerized process management.
 Multi color capability achieved by flexible process engineering.
 Environmentally compatible, due to low consumption of dyes and chemicals.
 User friendly design with low maintenance requirement.
 Optimum sizing and residual stretch.
 High output.
 Synchronized motors capable of running the machine at a constant speed.
 Easy drainage of liquor.
 Automatic dosing system.
 Re-storage of used dye liquor.
 Drying option after pre-washing, dyeing and sizing.
 Storage of 150 m long yarn sheet on accumulator.
 Automatic and manual controls of pressure of padders with electronic load cells.
 Quick creel change.

PARTEX DENIM
Page57
5.10 Machine Specification:
Brand name Benninger Zell
Model Ben Indigo
Year of construction 2005
Country of origin Germany
Creel capacity 16
Speed of winding 1-50 m/min
Warping width 1800 mm
Maximum reed space 2600 mm
Maximum beam diameter 1000 mm
Number of dye bath 6
Total no. of boxes 13
No. of pre dryer 10
No. of post dryer 14
Air pressure required 6-8 bar
Air consumption 15 m3
/hr
Steam pressure required 6 bar
Steam consumption 5500-5700 kg/hr
Water pressure required 2 bar
Water consumption 20 m3
/hr
Electric power consumption 120 kW/hr - 190 kW/hr
Production/day 40000 mtr/day
Machine Specification (Sizing part):
Brand name Ben size tech
Machine Speed 30-40 m/min
Squeeze Pressure 16.4 kN
No. of Squeeze Roller 02 pair
No. of Emersion Roller 02
No. Of Size Dryer 14
Preparation Tank Temperature 90O
C
Storage Tank Temperature 94O
C
Size Box Temperature 90O
C
Cooking Time 25-40 minute
Refractor value & Ford cup value Measure the Solid % in size liquor

PARTEX DENIM
Page58
Machine process Sequence of Dyeing & Sizing
Three Post Wash Box
Sheet Dyeing process (Regular, Bottoming, Topping, Pure Black)
Three Pre Wash Box
Pre-beam creel zone
Sewing section
Benlink zone/ yarn welding area
Accumulator BL
Pre Wetting Box
Pre-drying cylinder
Accumulator TA
Size bath
Post drying cylinder
Accumulator BN
After Waxing Device
Yarn leasing area
Weavers beam winder

PARTEX DENIM
Page59
Some other assisting areas in the dyeing and sizing process are-
 Skying zone
 Dye kitchen
 Size kitchen
 Blower
 Reserves tank
 Size cooker
 Beam crane
 Yarn sheet spreader roller
Some other assisting areas in dyeing sections:
 Preparation Tank (K-905)
 Indigo stock solution tank (K-915)
 Black Stock solution Tank (K-920)
 Store Tank (K-925, K-930, K-935, K-940)
Reactor (K-910):
The dyestuff is prepared in stock solution tank, it may happen some times that the dyestuff may get
coagulate and the function of Reactor is to break the coagulated dyestuff.
There is a separate arrangement of- Hydrogen peroxide Tank, Acetic Acid Tank, D Black Tank, Reducing
agent Tank, Tenside, Caustic Soda, Normal water & Also Hot water (50o
C) tank respectively.
5.10.1 Creel section:
The beams are creeled in the creeling zone .There are 16 pre beams capacity. Pre-Beams are creeled
here. Pre-Beams are negatively moved by the tension of warp sheet from front side of m/c. Must have
to maintain same speed & tension on each pre Beam. Here is a control panel to control the speed of pre
Beam.
Figure: Creeling section

PARTEX DENIM
Page60
The beams can be controlled in groups or individually. The let-off can be individual let-off, single group
let-off or warp- round let-off. There are two creels present on the machine in order to replace the used
creel quickly with a creel on which beams are already installed.
The back beams are mounted in the back beam unit with insert able journals. The Unwinding tension is
imparted by pneumatically loaded and automatically regulated band brakes and break shoes. The upper
beam supports can be shifted pneumatically making it easier to mount the bottom beam.
Most important part of creel section is Benlink or yarn sewing section. Benlink is the process of joining
the previous warp sheet with next warp sheet.
5.10.2 Benlink:
Benlink tape is used for this process. It is costly. Benlink tape heated for almost 46 min. Before Belting
Separating, rods are removed to pass through tape before entering warpers beam.
In case of ring Denim higher count is set at front side of creel section for example. If we use 7S
, 9S
, 12S
then first 4 pre beams contain yarn of 12S
.
In case of slub; if we use 4 pre beam for slub then first 2 slub, then regulary again 2 slub at middle.
5.10.3 Accumulator:
Here pairs of Roller moving ups-down to maintain proper tension on yarn. It also performs the storage
of yarn. There are 3 accumulators used, one is after creeling before dyeing next is after dyeing before
sizing and final one is after sizing before weavers beam. Dyeing & sizing is a continuous process.
Accumulator stored extra yarn by going up pair of R/r, during this time necessary work such
replacement of weavers beam is done, then again Accumulator come s its original position. Remember
that, for linear yarn tension of accumulator is low & for coarse Yarn, tension is high. Load cell Roller used
here for maintaining yarn tension.

PARTEX DENIM
Page61
5.10.4 Pre treatment:
Pre-treatment process in sheet dyeing consists of treatment of the cotton yarn sheet with caustic and
wetting agent. Pre-wetting is carried out in order to get proper dyeing of the sheet. Pre-wetting is
carried out with a Wetting agent, at room temperature. Increasing temperature also increase the
In some cases, if well penetration of the dye is required, the yarns are treated with strong caustic soda
solution followed by hot wash and cold wash treatment prior to dyeing. The pH of the bath is 11.8-12.
Measuring rollerPressure roller
Figure: D-100, Pre wetting, Pre dyeing, mercerizing box
Squeezing roller
Window
Immersion roller
Feed roller
Safety device
Yarn separator roller
Yarn sheet

PARTEX DENIM
Page62
5.10.5 Pre-Washing (1-3 box):
After pre treatment, pre-washing of the warp sheet is done. Pre washing is done in order to remove the
excess pre-treatment chemical from the warp sheet. If they remain inside the sheet than it will cause
the fibers to loose and also dyeing will not occur uniformly. Squeezing rollers are provided at the end of
each bath to remove the excess liquor from the sheet. These rollers also drive the warp sheet. Pressure
on these rollers is adjusted according to the tensile strength of the warp sheet with the help of load
cells.
Clod washing is done after hot washing in order to reduce the temperature of the warp sheet. Before
dying, washing is important for better penetration of dye molecules in the fibre.
Squeezing rollerSqueezing roller
Immersion roller
Yarn separator roller
Yarn sheet
Figure: D-200, 220, 240 (Wash box)

PARTEX DENIM
Page63
5.10.6 Dyeing:
As discussed above denim warp sheet is dyed with Indigo (Vat) dyes and sulfur dyes. There are some
options in dyeing of warp sheet.
 Indigo (Regular): In this case we use indigo in all tanks. According to shade.
 Bottoming: In this case another dye is applied before dyeing with indigo. First the warp sheet is
dyed with sulfur dye (black color) and then it is washed and then dyed with indigo.
 Topping: In this case the warp sheet is dyed with indigo in start and then it is washed and then it
is dyed with another dye (normally with sulfur).
 Pure Black: In this case the warp sheet is dyed with sulphur dye (black color) with high
concentration of color.
Washing is done after dyeing bath in order to remove unfixed dye. There are three wash box in this
machine. The wash boxes are similar as pre wash box.
Nitrogen ChamberDye Chamber
Immersion roller
Squeeze roller
Dyed yarn sheet
Undyed yarn sheet
Window
Figure: Dyeing box (D600 –D690)

PARTEX DENIM
Page64
Step 1 → Pre-wetting:
Bath Components Quantity
D - 100
Caustic soda (NaOH) (5-6) g/L
Wetting Agent (Tenside) (10 -15) g/L
Temperature (70-80) o
C
Squeezing Pressure (40-50) kN
Normal Water As required
Total volume
Step 2 → Pre-washing:
Step 3 → Dyeing:
Step 4 → Post-washing:
D – 200
D – 220
D – 240
Normal water As required
Squeezing Pressure 70-80 kN
Temperature Room temp.
Total volume/box
D – 400
D – 420
D – 440
D – 460
D – 480
D – 490
Indigo ----(1.7-2.0) % shade
pH 11.8 - 11.9
Temperature Room
Squeezing Pressure (55-60) k N
Water As Required
Total volume/box 600 L
D – 600
D – 620
D – 640
Total volume/box
Dyeing Recipe: Regular

PARTEX DENIM
Page65
Step 1 → Pre-wetting:
D - 100
Black ----(1.5-2.5) % shade
Reducing agent 10 g/L
Wetting agent (Tenside) 5 g/L
Caustic Soda 10 g/L
Temperature (80-90)o
C
Squeezing Pressure (40-50) kN
Water As required
Step 2 → Pre-washing:
Step 3 → Dyeing:
Step 4 → Post-washing:
D – 200
D – 220
D – 240
D – 400
D – 420
D – 440
D – 460
D – 480
D – 490
Indigo ----(1.7-2.0) % shade
pH 11.8 - 11.9
Temperature Room
Squeezing Pressure (55-60) k N
Water As Required
D – 600
D – 620
D – 640
Dyeing Recipe: Bottoming

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