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SWISS CHEESE IN AN EMMENTALER
                 STYLE




                                                                                                            Rubbing the out-
                                                                                                            side of the cheese,
                                                                                                            molding, and
                                                                                                            draining whey




            Fig.1 Cheese; from the Theatrum Sanitatis, Library Casanatense, Rome1.




1
 Fig.137. Cheese; from the Theatrum Sanitatis, Library Casanatense, Rome, http://www.godecookery.com/afeast/foods/foods.html




                                                                                                                               1
Moulding cheese
                                                                                                              in wooden hoops
                                                                                                              and cheeses drying
                                                                                                              & aging on
                                                                                                              shelves.




Fig.2 Cheese manufacture, 1390-1400, Illustration from "Tacuinum Sanitatis",
illuminated medical manual based on texts translated from Arabic into Latin, in the
collection of the Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris.2

“Also known as Emmentaler and Emmenthaler, this cheese takes its name from the
Emmental Valley where it originated circa 1293. It is considered Switzerland's oldest and
most prestigious cheese.”3 The cheese is named for the Emmen Valley (Emmen + tal
[valley]). There is archaeological evidence that there has been cheese making in the
mountains of Switzerland since 800 B.C.4 The people of the Emmen Valley have been
making cheeses of this type since the 13th century, but is was not until the 16th century
that the huge wheels of cheese we recognize today started being made.5 The wheels can
weigh as much as 200 pounds; Sandy Carr describes the making of this cheese “…is
considered to be one of the most difficult cheeses to make successfully.”6
2
    Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris, http://images.imagestate.com/Watermark/1276116.jpg
3
    Trowbridge-Filippone, Peggy, Swiss Cheese Varieties, http://homecooking.about.com/od/cheeseinformation/a/swisscheesehist.htm
4
  Prehistoric hut gives clues to ancient Alp life, Jul 25, 2009 - 18:05,
http://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/Specials/Border_Stories/Features/Prehistoric_hut_gives_clues_to_ancient_Alp_life.html?cid=7525194
5
  Kitchen Daily – Food Encyclopedia, Emmental, http://www.kitchendaily.com/encyclopedia/definition/emmental/847
6
    Carr, Sandy (1985), The Mitchell Beazley Pocket Guide to Cheese, London: Mitchell Beazley



                                                                                                                             2
Tribes such as the Helvetica, who had settled in the Swiss Alps, developed their own
distinctive types of cheese.7 In the spring and summer the cows would be taken to the
high mountain valleys to graze. The milk was collected twice a day and turned into
cheese in these high mountain valleys. The cheese was then stored in caves near by to
age. Artisan Emmental cheese is still made in much the same today.




                                                                                        8

Fig. 3 A Family of Cheese makers stands outside their wood home in the Alps.

To illustrate this below you can see an excerpt from a letter dated 1556 talking about the
cheese produced in Switzerland. Conrad Gessner lived in the Upper Engadine Valley in
Switzerland. This letter is very interesting in the detail and descriptions of the cheese
making process, the tools used, and what the products were called in the Alps, and in
Switzerland an area called Rhaetia.9
7
 History of Cheese, 01/06/10, http://www.world-of-cheese.com/history.htm
8
 Grosvenor, Dr. Gilbert H., A family of cheese makers stands outside their wood home in the Alps., Alps, Switzerland, National
Geographic Stock Photo, #1321140
9
 Epistola de caseis et operibus lactariis et modo quo in Rhiticis regionibus et alpibus parantur, 1556: “Letter from Jacob Bifrons to
Conrad Gessner”, 1556, Translated by Rikke D. Giles (Aelianora de Witringham), http://staff-www.uni-
marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/bifrun.htm, http://staff-www.uni-marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/decaseis.htm for a scan of the original
pages, translation found at http://www.florilegium.org



                                                                                                                                  3
“My son, returning to Curia in Pontissella, told me you suggested that I should write to
you about the ways of cheesemaking and the types of cheese of our region. This I now do
most willingly, and I hope that this will be pleasing to you. There are two types of cheese
which concern us; one lean and called 'domestic' since it is made both in the house and
in the Alps (see image above) and its use goes back before the memory of man. The other
type is called 'fat' cheese and it was brought from Italy into our region in the last 30
years.”10

The summer wooden home pictured here is very similar to what we might have seen
during the Middle Ages. The cheese was made in the Spring & Summer and aged in the
natural caves near by.




                                                                                                                     Fig.4
                                                                                           11
Cheese ripens on shelves in a cave in Pontresina, Switzerland

Making an Emmental Style Cheese in Period

The cows were collected twice a day (morning & evening) at the milking house to be
milked (Fig.5). The cream was allowed to come to the top then skimmed to make butter.
In period they would have left the skimmed milk to warm over night by the fire near the
hearth (this helped with the Acidification Process). Emmental Cheese can range in size
from 1 pound to 200 pound rounds. We now know that a special bacterium called

10
  Epistola de caseis et operibus lactariis et modo quo in Rhiticis regionibus et alpibus parantur, 1556: “Letter from Jacob Bifrons to
Conrad Gessner”, 1556, Translated by Rikke D. Giles (Aelianora de Witringham), http://staff-www.uni-
marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/bifrun.htm, http://staff-www.uni-marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/decaseis.htm for a scan of the original
pages, translation found at http://www.florilegium.org

11
  Taylor S. Kennedy, Photographer, National Geographic Stock, ID#991879,
http://www.nationalgeographicstock.com/ngsimages/explore/explorecomp.jsf?xsys=SF&id=7887



                                                                                                                                  4
Proprionic Shermanii causes the eye formation in the cheese by producing CO2. The
sizes of the holes are directly related to the size of the cheese round so the largest holes
some up to the size of walnuts would be found in the 200lb. rounds. A milk starter (a
bacterial agent some times referred to as a live culture) was also added that acted as an
agent to help back down the proteins in the milk so that the milk solids out separate out
(the curds).12 One method in period for the source of a starter was to save a small amount
of milk from a previous batch of cheese before the rennet (or agent was added to cause
the curd to separate from the whey). Next they would add rennet13 to cause the milk to
callboard.




Fig. 5 Dairy cows on alm in the Tyrol, Alpbach, Austria14                                 Fig. 6 Brown Swiss in Mn.15

“My Lady of Middlesex makes excellent slipp-coat Cheese of good morning milk,
putting Cream to it. A quart of Cream is the proportion she useth to as much milk,
as both together make a large round Cheese of the bigness of an ordinary Tart-plate, or
cheese-plate; as big as an ordinary soft cheese, that eh Market women sell for ten
pence…”16

The milk used for this project was a Raw Whole Milk. The Raw milk came from free
range Short Horn Milking Cows which was a breed known in the middle ages.

References known in period to the methods of making a hard cheese:

“Take a gallon of milk from the cow, and seethe it, and when it doth seethe put thereunto
a quart or two of morning milk in fair cleansing pans in such place as no dust may fall
therein. This is for you clotted cream. The next morning take a quart of morning milk,
and seethe it, and put in a quart of cream thereunto, and when it doth seethe, take if off
the fire. Put it in a fair earthen pan, and let it stand until it be somewhat blood warm. But
first over night put a good quantity of ginger, rose water, and stir it together. Let it settle


12
  Power, Eileen, The Goodman of Paris, New York, 1992, pg.169
13
  Arne Emil Christensen, Professor, Dr. Phil. at the University Museum of National Antiquities in Oslo, author of this article (He
specializes on shipbuilding history and craftsmanship in the Iron Age and the Viking period), http://ezinearticles.com/?Dairy-
Products-in-Anglo-Saxon-Times-%28Part-of-the-Anglo-Saxon-Survival-Guide%29&id=3754387
14
    Melissa Farlow, Photographer, National Geographic Stock, ID#1114587,
http://www.nationalgeographicstock.com/ngsimages/explore/explorecomp.jsf?xsys=SF&id=7887
15
   Kimetha Loidolt, Photographer, 8/2011, Taken at Dairy in Lathrup, Mn
16
   The Project Gutenberg eBook “The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby”, www.gutenberg.org/files/16441, “To make Silpp-coat cheese”



                                                                                                                                     5
overnight. The next day put it into your said blood warm milk to make your cheese
come.”17




                                                                                            18



Fig 7 Dairymen and Cheese Sellers (Mid 13th C., San Marco, Venice)19




                                20
                        Fig. 8 Man selling cheese 15th century, also note the cross
shaped emboss on the top of the cheese.
Columella on Cheese Making:

"Cheese should be made of pure milk which is as fresh as possible....It should usually be
curdled with rennet obtained from a lamb or kid, though it can also be coagulated with
the flower of the wild thistle or the seeds of the safflower (Carthamus tinctorius), and
equally well with the liquid which flows from a Fig-tree...".
"A pail when it has been filled with milk should always be kept at some degree of heat: it

17
   Dawson, Thomas, The Good Housewife’s Jewel, Southover Press, 1996, pg.17~18
18
   Viking Answer Lady, http://www.vikinganswerlady.com/food.shtml
        19
          At the Table of the Monks: Cheese, Of Course (Part V)
http://gherkinstomatoes.com/2009/05/22/at-the-table-of-the-monks-cheese-of-course-part-v/
20
   Take a Thousand Eggs or More, from Hortus Sanitatis, Mainz, 15th century, pg. 40



                                                                                             6
should not however be brought into contact with the flames....but should be put to stand
not far from the fire..."
"...when the liquid had thickened, it should immediately be transferred to wicker vessels
or baskets or moulds..."
"...the method of making what we call "hand pressed" cheese is the best-known of all:
when the milk is slightly congealed in the pail and still warm it is broken up and hot
water is poured over it, and then it is either shaped by hand or else pressed into box-wood
moulds." (See fig.2)21

Letter to Conrad Gessner from Jacob Bifrons
Translator: Aelianora de Wintringham, (mka Rikke D. Giles)

Epistola de caseis et operibus lactariis et modo quo in Rhiticis regionibus et
alpibus parantur, 1556

(Letter on cheese and dairy products and how they are made in Switzerland)

My son, returning to Curia in Pontissella, told me you suggested that I should write to
you about the ways of cheesemaking and the types of cheese of our region. This I now
do most willingly, and I hope that this will be pleasing to you.

There are two types of cheese which concern us; one lean and called 'domestic' since it is
made both in the house and in the Alps and its use goes back before the memory of man.
The other type is called 'fat' cheese and it was brought from Italy into our region in the
last 30 years.

Let's start with the lean:

When the milk has been milked it is poured by sprinkling into a low wooden vessel. The
vessels are called 'mottas' in our country. For reference, in Italy they use a bronze vessel
which they call 'concha'. One of these vessels can contain 60 pounds of milk; and out of
which, each day, the 'foam' of the milk, which is the condensing of the fat of the milk, is
separated. This foam can be called by two names, 'Grama' or cream. They put the foam
into a round and oblong vessel which they call the 'Pneulia'. It is covered with a cover
which has small holes in it, into which a long stick is inserted. The stick has a board on
its end around which a ball or sphere is fastened, and this stick is alternately lifted out and
put back <into the Pneulia> so that the foam is agitated without interruption until butter is
created. They call the butter 'Paing' in this country <the marginal note in the original says
Pingue, or fat>. When it has been separated and removed, the liquid that remains is
called 'Pen'. The milk which remains in the mottas, the foam having been taken away, is
put into a cooking-pot and a small fire is lit underneath it. The milk is left there until it is
tepid. It is then removed from the fire and a small portion of the rennet of a calf (the size
of a chestnut) is mixed into the tepid milk. And thus, within half an hour, and oftentimes
less, the milk is curdled and made firm. Then this material, which they call Ponna, is
stirred with a long rod, until it settles. Then it is removed and transferred into a mould
21
     Columella II de re Rustica V-IX, Translated by E.S. Forster & E. Heffner, Book VII, pg.285~289



                                                                                                      7
while the whey is pressed out. Then the curds are taken out and put on a little board and
sprinkled with salt and surrounded by a 'skin' (I think he maybe referring to a Cheese
Mould), so that it doesn't expand <ie fall apart>. Every day for 8 days it is turned over
and rubbed with salt until the cheese is made solid and dry. The milk which remains in
the cooking dish after the Ponna has been removed is whey, and to this is added the Pen
<buttermilk>. Then a hot fire is placed under the cooking-pot, and the whey is warmed
until it boils. The matter which is floating on the top after boiling is made into
Serotium. To us it is zicronum, in Italy they call it Puina or Mascarpa, and you call it
Ziger. The Serotium is taken from the cooking-pot into a wooden vessel so that the whey
remaining in it drains away. Then it is taken out and put on a board in a dry place, and
exposed to smoke and put into the wind. Salt is sprinkled upon it until it is dry.

From the rest of the liquid remaining in the cooking-pot nothing can be made, and it is
given to pigs. (All though this statement is somewhat misleading as whey was often
given to the sick as it was easy to digest, herbs were also often added…reference
Scappi #68 to make cheese from Goat Milk).

Butter, which we nearly forgot, needs no more care than this: It should be taken from the
Pneulia and the remaining Pen should be expressed from it, then salt added. It is put into
a circular or oblong form, and it is rendered and pressed. From 60 pounds of milk, 3
pounds of butter, four of cheese and two of serotium are produced. Three pounds of but-
ter are worth here 7 crucifers of Athesini <some kind of coin?>. Six pounds of cheese
and serotij, taken together and sold, would be worth 6 crucifers.

And thus, of lean cheese.

Fat cheese is only made in the 'cottage' of the Alps, where most of the cows are. This is
how it is made: When the first day's milk is taken, that milk is put straight into the cook-
ing-pot from the milk-pail. It is put over a fire, and, as we explained earlier, rennet is in-
troduced into it. After half an hour it is condensed and then it is stirred with a long stick
or paddle. When it has settled it is removed, and put into moulds of wood, which because
they are similar to bands are called Fasceras. These are bandaged with a sheet; and then
covered with a clean cloth of linen. Right after that they put a weight on top to express
the whey. On the next day the cheese is turned upside down and put back under the
weight. On the following day the weight is removed and the mould is very tightly bound,
and placed into a closed and warm location, one not very damp. This place should not al-
low winds from fissures to strike it, or it <the cheese> will swell from excessive dryness
or be made full of hollows because of excessive humidity, and if this happens, the cheese
will not be fit <to eat> for a long time. Next it is laid out on a clean board, and salt is
sprinkled upon it. For the following 8 days it is turned, removed from its bindings and
rubbed with salt. It is returned to its tight bindings and this is done until the cheese be-
comes solid and dry. When that happens it is put into a dry place and smeared with oil so
that it won't be infested with any rottenness. Care must be taken in cheesemaking, as
those who prepare it will tell you, when the rennet is added to the milk, that the milk be
neither too hot nor too cold, and not too great an amount of rennet put into it, and care
must be taken to expel the whey and only add a moderate amount of salt. This is so the



                                                                                           8
cheese won't be full of holes but solid, nor bitter, nor bland, nor too salty or insipid or re-
tain the taste of rennet. Also, a fire left under the whey in the cooking-pot will create
serotij <plural of serotium>, in the same manner as that from the lean preparation. The
difference between serotij, fat and lean, is the same as that between cheese, fat and
lean. And in general, the same amount in pounds of cheese and serotij is produced from
milk as that from the lean production I explained above.

And so great is the fame of our cheese and butter that great quantities are sent away to
Comum, and the bordering regions of Italy and Germany. And the smallest of our
cheeses, if they are aged, are esteemed as much as the cheese of Placentini. These most
highly praised cheeses are now in Italy and sell for quite a bit, since a single pound of
fresh cheese costs two crucifers, and aged cheese costs twice that. It is amazing to say
that so much cheese and butter is made in our jurisdiction (which is the area above the
valley Engedina, and which consists of 1000 homes) that in many years more than 15
thousand florens worth are sent downstream. This number would be more, but because
of domestic use, some product isn't included.

And this was about the milk of cows. It is natural <to write> about the milk of goats, but
I think I should end up writing a huge work. Goodbye.

 At Samadenus in the valley of Engedina, the 27th of January, the year of the Lord 155622

Supplies:

2 gal. Raw Whole Milk (or *Whole Pasteurized Milk)
1 pkg. Thermophillic Culture DS (Direct Set) contains: lactose, (ST) streptococcus
thermophilus, (LB) lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. bulgaricus, (LH) lactobacillus
helveticus.
1/2 tsp. Proprionic Shermanii contains: Proprionibacteria freudenreichii subsp.
Shermanii
*½ tsp. Calcium Chloride contains: Calcium Chloride (used only in pasteurized milk)
*1/8 tsp. Lipase Power – Capilase (very sharp) You will only need this if using
Pasteurized milk (an animal based enzyme used to enhance flavor in cheese)
1/2 tsp. Rennet
¼ cup cool water
1 lb. Sea Salt
2 Stainless Steel Pots
1 Slotted Stainless Steel Spoon
1 yard of cheese cloth
1 Colander
1 Stainless Steel Ladle
1 Thermometer

22
  Epistola de caseis et operibus lactariis et modo quo in Rhiticis regionibus et alpibus parantur, 1556: “Letter from Jacob Bifrons to
Conrad Gessner”, 1556, Translated by Rikke D. Giles (Aelianora de Witringham), http://staff-www.uni-
marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/bifrun.htm, http://staff-www.uni-marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/decaseis.htm for a scan of the original
pages, translation found at http://www.florilegium.org



                                                                                                                                  9
1 Cheese Press
1 Cheese Mould & Follower
1 timer
1 large plastic container (Tupperware style)
2 Reed Mats to place the cheese on

A Hard Cheese in the Emmental Style                                      23




Modern Method:

2-gallon raw whole milk
        (Raw Milk will give you a richer cheese)
1 pack of Thermophillic Culture DS contains: lactose, (ST) streptococcus
        thermophilus, (LB) lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. bulgaricus, (LH) lactobacillus
        helveticus. (this is used for temperatures over 110º)
½ tsp. of Proprionic Shermanii contains: Proprionibacteria freudenreichii subsp.
        shermanii
1/8 tsp of Lipase Power contains: Goat lipase, salt and non-fat milk for 2 gallons of milk
        if using pasteurized milk
½ tsp. Calcium Chloride contains: Calcium Chloride (needed only if pasteurized milk is
        used)
½ tsp of Rennet for 2 gallons of milk
1/4 cup of cool water to dilute the rennet
1 lb. Coarse Sea Salt (for brine)
Step One:
Place milk into large pan (fig. 10). Warm milk until it has risen to a temperature of milk
to 90° F. (Use the in-direct warming method using a large metal pan in a sink of warm
water, or inside of a second larger pot), and add the Thermophillic Starter, (if using
pasteurized milk also add Lipase Power (during the pasteurization process most of the
naturally occurring lipase is ruined)24, and Calcium Chloride.)
Step Two:
Remove ¼ cup of milk from the pot and add the Proprionic Shermanii add to milk cover
and let sit for 10 minutes.
Step Three:
Add Rennet (diluted to 1/4 cup of cool water) and stir for several minuets. Let milk sit
covered for 30 minutes at 90º F. or until a curd has formed and a clean break (the curd
should have what is called a clean break, which is if a clean knife is put into the curd the
curd should separate cleanly).
Step Four:
Cut the curds in ¼ inch cubes continue to stir the curds at 90 degrees for 40 minutes.
This is commonly called Fore-working.
Step Five:

23
  “any rich soft cheese”, Brears, Peter, A Taste of History, London, 1993, pg.134
24
  Lava, Shari, What is Lipase Powder?, December 08, 2010, http://www.ehow.com/facts_7462852_lipase-powder_.html, December
08, 2010



                                                                                                                       1
Heat the curds to 120 degrees slowly maintain the curds at this temperature for 30
minutes, and continue stirring. Test the curds for what is called the “proper break”. Take
a handful of curds and wad together then rub it in your palm. It should break apart into
individual pieces. This will show that the curds are cooked enough. Now let them sit for
5 minutes.
Step Six:
Pour off the whey to the level of the curds. Place the warm curds into a cheese cloth
lined mold. Fold over one edge of the cheese cloth, and place the follower.
Step Seven:
Place mould and follower into the cheese press and press at 10 pounds for 15 minutes.
Step Eight:
Remove from the press take and redress the cheese and flip it over and return to the press
and press at 15 pounds for 2 hours.
Step Nine:
Remove from the press, flip and redress the cheese return to the press for 12 hours at
15~20 pounds.
Step Ten:
Remove from mould and place in cold brine for 12 hours.
Step Eleven:
Remove cheese from the brine wipe dry and place on a reed mat at 50~55 degrees and
85% humidity for 7 days, turn daily and wipe with a cloth dampened with salt water. Do
not wet the cheese.
Step Twelve:
Remove cheese from the cold place into your cheese box on a reed mat, leave at room
temperature (70~75 degrees) for 2~3 weeks at room temperature, turn daily and wipe
with cloth dampened in salt water. After 2~3 weeks you should notice a swelling and
rounding of the sides of the cheese this is part of the Eye formation.
Step Thirteen:
Place the cheese back into your refrigerator at 45 degrees with 80% humidity for at least
3 months (or longer for a sharper flavor). Turn weekly and wipe as needed with damp
cloth and salt water.25

The cheese is ready to eat after 6~12 months, but for a milder flavor cheese is ready after
3 months. The longer you age this cheese the stronger the flavor should be and the dryer
it maybe. In February of 2012 this round of Emmental will be 12 months old.

Steps:




25
     Carroll, Ricki & Robert, Cheese making made Easy, United States: Capital City Press, 1996, page 36~37



                                                                                                             1
Cut the curds                   curd after 1 hour of heating at 90F




Fore working & Wading




Warm curds placed in to mould    Follower added




In press                Brine




                                                                      1
After 2~3 weeks at room temperature




At 10 months of age




                                                 Example of using cheese Tier to check
on progress of cheese

Observations:
During the aging process I was able to check on the progress of the cheese twice using
what is called a Cheese Tier (see picture above). Basically you are taking a core sample a
small piece off the end and replacing the rest back into the hole. With the sample in hand


                                                                                       1
I smelled it, checked the texture, and color, and then tasted it. In cheese making you are
using all of you senses. The next time I will check on the cheese will be at A&S in
February of 2012 and it will be 7 months old then.

Conclusion:
Some of the early lessons I learned in making hard cheeses were patients had to be
number one. The cheese you sampled today has been aging for one year. In the
production of hard cheeses time, controlled humidity, and temperature are your friends.
Not enough of one or too much of any one of these could effect your final product.

Some of the lessons that apply to making this style of cheese are size matters. According
to my research the size of the holes in your cheese is proportional to the size of the cheese
round. My first cheese was small there for the holes were very small. Another important
lesson I learned was to either use rubber gloves one pair for each cheese I am working on
or wash my hands between handling the different types of cheese I am making. My first
round of Swiss had a blue under flavor. This was from the fact that I had handled my
Blue cheese earlier and had cross flavored my round of Swiss by transferring some of the
blue mold spores to the Swiss. Though not bad it was not the flavor I was wanting.

I have also learned that time is much more critical for making hard cheeses, and the
process of making hard cheeses is not nearly as forgiving as making soft cheeses.

On adding rennet I learned early on that a little goes a long way and adding two much of
something in the case of making cheese can be a bad thing. Adding not enough rennet
and your curd will not set, but I have found that you can add a little more if necessary.
Adding to much rennet will give it a rubbery texture and a bitter under taste. This also
will happen if your rennet is too old.

Another important lesson learned is use the freshest milk possible for the best flavor and
cheese. This last statement is important because it explains a couple of written
statements I found in period sources that talked about the time of year and the quality of
the cheese products produced. For example in the spring and early summer the milk is
rich and contains a large of amount of protein and milk fat due to new pastures and
lactation for their young, so the cheese is going to be very rich in body and flavor. If the
milk is in the fall then it is not as rich due to the decline of pasture feeding and that they
are no longer lactating, so the cheese produced in the fall will take more milk to produce
a pound of cheese due to a lower amount of protein and fat making the milk thinner (the
cream that comes to the top is not as thick as in the spring/ summer milk). What the
animals eat also effect the flavor of the cheese as well.

Another lesson that applies as much now as then is keeping things clean, “morning milk
in fair cleansing pans in such place as no dust may fall therein”. There are times when no
matter what you do the milk will not set and all you can do is start over and feed the
previous batch to the pig.




                                                                                            1
This is a process I have been learning about for the last 4 years, I started Medieval
Cheese Forum a two years ago (www.medievalcheese.blogspot.com) so I could keep
track of mistakes and successes, share information I have learned about cheese making
also.


Enjoy sampling the cheese.




                                                                        Warming
                                                                        milk



                                                                        Slotted
                                                                        ladle &
                                                                        strainer




                                                                  26
                                                                       Fig. 10 Warming the milk




26
   From Tacuinum Sanitatis (ÖNB Codex Vindobonensis, series nova 2644), c. 1370-1400)
http://www.godecookery.com/afeast/foods/foods.html



                                                                                                  1
27
     Fig. 12 Roman Cheese Press in form and function very similar to those found from 600 –
1600 A.D.
Materials Referenced:

1. Fig.137. Cheese; from the Theatrum Sanitatis, Library Casanatense, Rome,
http://www.godecookery.com/afeast/foods/foods.html

2. Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris, http://images.imagestate.com/Watermark/1276116.jpg

3. Trowbridge-Filippone, Peggy, Swiss Cheese Varieties,
http://homecooking.about.com/od/cheeseinformation/a/swisscheesehist.htm

4. Prehistoric hut gives clues to ancient Alp life, Jul 25, 2009 - 18:05,
http://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/Specials/Border_Stories/Features/Prehistoric_hut_gives_clu
es_to_ancient_Alp_life.html?cid=7525194

5. Kitchen Daily – Food Encyclopedia, Emmental,
http://www.kitchendaily.com/encyclopedia/definition/emmental/847

6. Carr, Sandy (1985), The Mitchell Beazley Pocket Guide to Cheese, London: Mitchell
Beazley

7. History of Cheese, 01/06/10, http://www.world-of-cheese.com/history.htm

8. Grosvenor, Dr. Gilbert H., A family of cheese makers stands outside their wood home
in the Alps, Alps, Switzerland, National Geographic Stock Photo, #1321140

9. Epistola de caseis et operibus lactariis et modo quo in Rhiticis regionibus et alpibus
parantur, 1556: “Letter from Jacob Bifrons to Conrad Gessner”, 1556, Translated by
Rikke D. Giles (Aelianora de Witringham), http://staff-www.uni-
marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/bifrun.htm, http://staff-www.uni-
marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/decaseis.htm for a scan of the original pages, translation
found at http://www.florilegium.org

10. Epistola de caseis et operibus lactariis et modo quo in Rhiticis regionibus et alpibus
parantur, 1556: “Letter from Jacob Bifrons to Conrad Gessner”, 1556, Translated by

27
   Roman Cheese Press, Greyware circular straight-sided bowl, used for draining the Whey from cheese, c. 450 A.D.,
http://www.museumoflondonprints.com




Unless otherwise noted all other pictures are my photography


                                                                                                                     1
Rikke D. Giles (Aelianora de Witringham), http://staff-www.uni-
marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/bifrun.htm, http://staff-www.uni-
marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/decaseis.htm for a scan of the original pages, translation
found at http://www.florilegium.org

11. Taylor S. Kennedy, Photographer, National Geographic Stock, ID#991879,
http://www.nationalgeographicstock.com/ngsimages/explore/explorecomp.jsf?
xsys=SF&id=7887

12. Power, Eileen, The Goodman of Paris, New York, 1992, pg.169

13. Arne Emil Christensen, Professor, Dr. Phil. at the University Museum of National
Antiquities in Oslo, author of this article (He specializes on shipbuilding history and
craftsmanship in the Iron Age and the Viking period), http://ezinearticles.com/?Dairy-
Products-in-Anglo-Saxon-Times-%28Part-of-the-Anglo-Saxon-Survival-Guide
%29&id=3754387

14. Farlow, Melissa, Photographer, National Geographic Stock, ID#1114587,
http://www.nationalgeographicstock.com/ngsimages/explore/explorecomp.jsf?
xsys=SF&id=7887

15. Kimetha Loidolt, Photographer, 8/2011, Taken at Dairy in Lathrup, Mn

16. The Project Gutenberg eBook “The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby”, www.guten-
berg.org/files/16441, “To make Silpp-coat cheese”

17. Dawson, Thomas, The Good Housewife’s Jewel, Southover Press, 1996, pg.17~18

18. Viking Answer Lady, http://www.vikinganswerlady.com/food.shtml

19. At the Table of the Monks: Cheese, Of Course (Part V), http://gherkinstomatoes.com/
2009/05/22/at-the-table-of-the-monks-cheese-of-course-part-v/

20. Take a Thousand Eggs or More, from Hortus Sanitatis, Mainz, 15th century, pg. 40

21. Columella II de re Rustica V-IX, Translated by E.S. Forster & E. Heffner, Book VII,
pg.285~289

22. Epistola de caseis et operibus lactariis et modo quo in Rhiticis regionibus et alpibus
parantur, 1556: “Letter from Jacob Bifrons to Conrad Gessner”, 1556, Translated by
Rikke D. Giles (Aelianora de Witringham), http://staff-www.uni-
marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/bifrun.htm, http://staff-www.uni-
marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/decaseis.htm for a scan of the original pages, translation
found at http://www.florilegium.org

23. Brears, Peter, “any rich soft cheese”, A Taste of History, London, 1993, pg.134


                                                                                          1
24. Lava, Shari, What is Lipase Powder?, December 08, 2010,
http://www.ehow.com/facts_7462852_lipase-powder_.html, December 08, 2010

25. Carroll, Ricki & Robert, Cheese making made Easy, United States: Capital City
Press, 1996, page 36~37

26. From Tacuinum Sanitatis (ÖNB Codex Vindobonensis, series nova 2644), c.
1370-1400) http://www.godecookery.com/afeast/foods/foods.html
27. Roman Cheese Press, Greyware circular straight-sided bowl, used for draining the
Whey from cheese, c. 450 A.D., http://www.museumoflondonprints.com




                                                                                       1

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(3501) swiss cheese in the emmemtaller style 01.12.12

  • 1. SWISS CHEESE IN AN EMMENTALER STYLE Rubbing the out- side of the cheese, molding, and draining whey Fig.1 Cheese; from the Theatrum Sanitatis, Library Casanatense, Rome1. 1 Fig.137. Cheese; from the Theatrum Sanitatis, Library Casanatense, Rome, http://www.godecookery.com/afeast/foods/foods.html 1
  • 2. Moulding cheese in wooden hoops and cheeses drying & aging on shelves. Fig.2 Cheese manufacture, 1390-1400, Illustration from "Tacuinum Sanitatis", illuminated medical manual based on texts translated from Arabic into Latin, in the collection of the Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris.2 “Also known as Emmentaler and Emmenthaler, this cheese takes its name from the Emmental Valley where it originated circa 1293. It is considered Switzerland's oldest and most prestigious cheese.”3 The cheese is named for the Emmen Valley (Emmen + tal [valley]). There is archaeological evidence that there has been cheese making in the mountains of Switzerland since 800 B.C.4 The people of the Emmen Valley have been making cheeses of this type since the 13th century, but is was not until the 16th century that the huge wheels of cheese we recognize today started being made.5 The wheels can weigh as much as 200 pounds; Sandy Carr describes the making of this cheese “…is considered to be one of the most difficult cheeses to make successfully.”6 2 Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris, http://images.imagestate.com/Watermark/1276116.jpg 3 Trowbridge-Filippone, Peggy, Swiss Cheese Varieties, http://homecooking.about.com/od/cheeseinformation/a/swisscheesehist.htm 4 Prehistoric hut gives clues to ancient Alp life, Jul 25, 2009 - 18:05, http://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/Specials/Border_Stories/Features/Prehistoric_hut_gives_clues_to_ancient_Alp_life.html?cid=7525194 5 Kitchen Daily – Food Encyclopedia, Emmental, http://www.kitchendaily.com/encyclopedia/definition/emmental/847 6 Carr, Sandy (1985), The Mitchell Beazley Pocket Guide to Cheese, London: Mitchell Beazley 2
  • 3. Tribes such as the Helvetica, who had settled in the Swiss Alps, developed their own distinctive types of cheese.7 In the spring and summer the cows would be taken to the high mountain valleys to graze. The milk was collected twice a day and turned into cheese in these high mountain valleys. The cheese was then stored in caves near by to age. Artisan Emmental cheese is still made in much the same today. 8 Fig. 3 A Family of Cheese makers stands outside their wood home in the Alps. To illustrate this below you can see an excerpt from a letter dated 1556 talking about the cheese produced in Switzerland. Conrad Gessner lived in the Upper Engadine Valley in Switzerland. This letter is very interesting in the detail and descriptions of the cheese making process, the tools used, and what the products were called in the Alps, and in Switzerland an area called Rhaetia.9 7 History of Cheese, 01/06/10, http://www.world-of-cheese.com/history.htm 8 Grosvenor, Dr. Gilbert H., A family of cheese makers stands outside their wood home in the Alps., Alps, Switzerland, National Geographic Stock Photo, #1321140 9 Epistola de caseis et operibus lactariis et modo quo in Rhiticis regionibus et alpibus parantur, 1556: “Letter from Jacob Bifrons to Conrad Gessner”, 1556, Translated by Rikke D. Giles (Aelianora de Witringham), http://staff-www.uni- marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/bifrun.htm, http://staff-www.uni-marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/decaseis.htm for a scan of the original pages, translation found at http://www.florilegium.org 3
  • 4. “My son, returning to Curia in Pontissella, told me you suggested that I should write to you about the ways of cheesemaking and the types of cheese of our region. This I now do most willingly, and I hope that this will be pleasing to you. There are two types of cheese which concern us; one lean and called 'domestic' since it is made both in the house and in the Alps (see image above) and its use goes back before the memory of man. The other type is called 'fat' cheese and it was brought from Italy into our region in the last 30 years.”10 The summer wooden home pictured here is very similar to what we might have seen during the Middle Ages. The cheese was made in the Spring & Summer and aged in the natural caves near by. Fig.4 11 Cheese ripens on shelves in a cave in Pontresina, Switzerland Making an Emmental Style Cheese in Period The cows were collected twice a day (morning & evening) at the milking house to be milked (Fig.5). The cream was allowed to come to the top then skimmed to make butter. In period they would have left the skimmed milk to warm over night by the fire near the hearth (this helped with the Acidification Process). Emmental Cheese can range in size from 1 pound to 200 pound rounds. We now know that a special bacterium called 10 Epistola de caseis et operibus lactariis et modo quo in Rhiticis regionibus et alpibus parantur, 1556: “Letter from Jacob Bifrons to Conrad Gessner”, 1556, Translated by Rikke D. Giles (Aelianora de Witringham), http://staff-www.uni- marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/bifrun.htm, http://staff-www.uni-marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/decaseis.htm for a scan of the original pages, translation found at http://www.florilegium.org 11 Taylor S. Kennedy, Photographer, National Geographic Stock, ID#991879, http://www.nationalgeographicstock.com/ngsimages/explore/explorecomp.jsf?xsys=SF&id=7887 4
  • 5. Proprionic Shermanii causes the eye formation in the cheese by producing CO2. The sizes of the holes are directly related to the size of the cheese round so the largest holes some up to the size of walnuts would be found in the 200lb. rounds. A milk starter (a bacterial agent some times referred to as a live culture) was also added that acted as an agent to help back down the proteins in the milk so that the milk solids out separate out (the curds).12 One method in period for the source of a starter was to save a small amount of milk from a previous batch of cheese before the rennet (or agent was added to cause the curd to separate from the whey). Next they would add rennet13 to cause the milk to callboard. Fig. 5 Dairy cows on alm in the Tyrol, Alpbach, Austria14 Fig. 6 Brown Swiss in Mn.15 “My Lady of Middlesex makes excellent slipp-coat Cheese of good morning milk, putting Cream to it. A quart of Cream is the proportion she useth to as much milk, as both together make a large round Cheese of the bigness of an ordinary Tart-plate, or cheese-plate; as big as an ordinary soft cheese, that eh Market women sell for ten pence…”16 The milk used for this project was a Raw Whole Milk. The Raw milk came from free range Short Horn Milking Cows which was a breed known in the middle ages. References known in period to the methods of making a hard cheese: “Take a gallon of milk from the cow, and seethe it, and when it doth seethe put thereunto a quart or two of morning milk in fair cleansing pans in such place as no dust may fall therein. This is for you clotted cream. The next morning take a quart of morning milk, and seethe it, and put in a quart of cream thereunto, and when it doth seethe, take if off the fire. Put it in a fair earthen pan, and let it stand until it be somewhat blood warm. But first over night put a good quantity of ginger, rose water, and stir it together. Let it settle 12 Power, Eileen, The Goodman of Paris, New York, 1992, pg.169 13 Arne Emil Christensen, Professor, Dr. Phil. at the University Museum of National Antiquities in Oslo, author of this article (He specializes on shipbuilding history and craftsmanship in the Iron Age and the Viking period), http://ezinearticles.com/?Dairy- Products-in-Anglo-Saxon-Times-%28Part-of-the-Anglo-Saxon-Survival-Guide%29&id=3754387 14 Melissa Farlow, Photographer, National Geographic Stock, ID#1114587, http://www.nationalgeographicstock.com/ngsimages/explore/explorecomp.jsf?xsys=SF&id=7887 15 Kimetha Loidolt, Photographer, 8/2011, Taken at Dairy in Lathrup, Mn 16 The Project Gutenberg eBook “The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby”, www.gutenberg.org/files/16441, “To make Silpp-coat cheese” 5
  • 6. overnight. The next day put it into your said blood warm milk to make your cheese come.”17 18 Fig 7 Dairymen and Cheese Sellers (Mid 13th C., San Marco, Venice)19 20 Fig. 8 Man selling cheese 15th century, also note the cross shaped emboss on the top of the cheese. Columella on Cheese Making: "Cheese should be made of pure milk which is as fresh as possible....It should usually be curdled with rennet obtained from a lamb or kid, though it can also be coagulated with the flower of the wild thistle or the seeds of the safflower (Carthamus tinctorius), and equally well with the liquid which flows from a Fig-tree...". "A pail when it has been filled with milk should always be kept at some degree of heat: it 17 Dawson, Thomas, The Good Housewife’s Jewel, Southover Press, 1996, pg.17~18 18 Viking Answer Lady, http://www.vikinganswerlady.com/food.shtml 19 At the Table of the Monks: Cheese, Of Course (Part V) http://gherkinstomatoes.com/2009/05/22/at-the-table-of-the-monks-cheese-of-course-part-v/ 20 Take a Thousand Eggs or More, from Hortus Sanitatis, Mainz, 15th century, pg. 40 6
  • 7. should not however be brought into contact with the flames....but should be put to stand not far from the fire..." "...when the liquid had thickened, it should immediately be transferred to wicker vessels or baskets or moulds..." "...the method of making what we call "hand pressed" cheese is the best-known of all: when the milk is slightly congealed in the pail and still warm it is broken up and hot water is poured over it, and then it is either shaped by hand or else pressed into box-wood moulds." (See fig.2)21 Letter to Conrad Gessner from Jacob Bifrons Translator: Aelianora de Wintringham, (mka Rikke D. Giles) Epistola de caseis et operibus lactariis et modo quo in Rhiticis regionibus et alpibus parantur, 1556 (Letter on cheese and dairy products and how they are made in Switzerland) My son, returning to Curia in Pontissella, told me you suggested that I should write to you about the ways of cheesemaking and the types of cheese of our region. This I now do most willingly, and I hope that this will be pleasing to you. There are two types of cheese which concern us; one lean and called 'domestic' since it is made both in the house and in the Alps and its use goes back before the memory of man. The other type is called 'fat' cheese and it was brought from Italy into our region in the last 30 years. Let's start with the lean: When the milk has been milked it is poured by sprinkling into a low wooden vessel. The vessels are called 'mottas' in our country. For reference, in Italy they use a bronze vessel which they call 'concha'. One of these vessels can contain 60 pounds of milk; and out of which, each day, the 'foam' of the milk, which is the condensing of the fat of the milk, is separated. This foam can be called by two names, 'Grama' or cream. They put the foam into a round and oblong vessel which they call the 'Pneulia'. It is covered with a cover which has small holes in it, into which a long stick is inserted. The stick has a board on its end around which a ball or sphere is fastened, and this stick is alternately lifted out and put back <into the Pneulia> so that the foam is agitated without interruption until butter is created. They call the butter 'Paing' in this country <the marginal note in the original says Pingue, or fat>. When it has been separated and removed, the liquid that remains is called 'Pen'. The milk which remains in the mottas, the foam having been taken away, is put into a cooking-pot and a small fire is lit underneath it. The milk is left there until it is tepid. It is then removed from the fire and a small portion of the rennet of a calf (the size of a chestnut) is mixed into the tepid milk. And thus, within half an hour, and oftentimes less, the milk is curdled and made firm. Then this material, which they call Ponna, is stirred with a long rod, until it settles. Then it is removed and transferred into a mould 21 Columella II de re Rustica V-IX, Translated by E.S. Forster & E. Heffner, Book VII, pg.285~289 7
  • 8. while the whey is pressed out. Then the curds are taken out and put on a little board and sprinkled with salt and surrounded by a 'skin' (I think he maybe referring to a Cheese Mould), so that it doesn't expand <ie fall apart>. Every day for 8 days it is turned over and rubbed with salt until the cheese is made solid and dry. The milk which remains in the cooking dish after the Ponna has been removed is whey, and to this is added the Pen <buttermilk>. Then a hot fire is placed under the cooking-pot, and the whey is warmed until it boils. The matter which is floating on the top after boiling is made into Serotium. To us it is zicronum, in Italy they call it Puina or Mascarpa, and you call it Ziger. The Serotium is taken from the cooking-pot into a wooden vessel so that the whey remaining in it drains away. Then it is taken out and put on a board in a dry place, and exposed to smoke and put into the wind. Salt is sprinkled upon it until it is dry. From the rest of the liquid remaining in the cooking-pot nothing can be made, and it is given to pigs. (All though this statement is somewhat misleading as whey was often given to the sick as it was easy to digest, herbs were also often added…reference Scappi #68 to make cheese from Goat Milk). Butter, which we nearly forgot, needs no more care than this: It should be taken from the Pneulia and the remaining Pen should be expressed from it, then salt added. It is put into a circular or oblong form, and it is rendered and pressed. From 60 pounds of milk, 3 pounds of butter, four of cheese and two of serotium are produced. Three pounds of but- ter are worth here 7 crucifers of Athesini <some kind of coin?>. Six pounds of cheese and serotij, taken together and sold, would be worth 6 crucifers. And thus, of lean cheese. Fat cheese is only made in the 'cottage' of the Alps, where most of the cows are. This is how it is made: When the first day's milk is taken, that milk is put straight into the cook- ing-pot from the milk-pail. It is put over a fire, and, as we explained earlier, rennet is in- troduced into it. After half an hour it is condensed and then it is stirred with a long stick or paddle. When it has settled it is removed, and put into moulds of wood, which because they are similar to bands are called Fasceras. These are bandaged with a sheet; and then covered with a clean cloth of linen. Right after that they put a weight on top to express the whey. On the next day the cheese is turned upside down and put back under the weight. On the following day the weight is removed and the mould is very tightly bound, and placed into a closed and warm location, one not very damp. This place should not al- low winds from fissures to strike it, or it <the cheese> will swell from excessive dryness or be made full of hollows because of excessive humidity, and if this happens, the cheese will not be fit <to eat> for a long time. Next it is laid out on a clean board, and salt is sprinkled upon it. For the following 8 days it is turned, removed from its bindings and rubbed with salt. It is returned to its tight bindings and this is done until the cheese be- comes solid and dry. When that happens it is put into a dry place and smeared with oil so that it won't be infested with any rottenness. Care must be taken in cheesemaking, as those who prepare it will tell you, when the rennet is added to the milk, that the milk be neither too hot nor too cold, and not too great an amount of rennet put into it, and care must be taken to expel the whey and only add a moderate amount of salt. This is so the 8
  • 9. cheese won't be full of holes but solid, nor bitter, nor bland, nor too salty or insipid or re- tain the taste of rennet. Also, a fire left under the whey in the cooking-pot will create serotij <plural of serotium>, in the same manner as that from the lean preparation. The difference between serotij, fat and lean, is the same as that between cheese, fat and lean. And in general, the same amount in pounds of cheese and serotij is produced from milk as that from the lean production I explained above. And so great is the fame of our cheese and butter that great quantities are sent away to Comum, and the bordering regions of Italy and Germany. And the smallest of our cheeses, if they are aged, are esteemed as much as the cheese of Placentini. These most highly praised cheeses are now in Italy and sell for quite a bit, since a single pound of fresh cheese costs two crucifers, and aged cheese costs twice that. It is amazing to say that so much cheese and butter is made in our jurisdiction (which is the area above the valley Engedina, and which consists of 1000 homes) that in many years more than 15 thousand florens worth are sent downstream. This number would be more, but because of domestic use, some product isn't included. And this was about the milk of cows. It is natural <to write> about the milk of goats, but I think I should end up writing a huge work. Goodbye. At Samadenus in the valley of Engedina, the 27th of January, the year of the Lord 155622 Supplies: 2 gal. Raw Whole Milk (or *Whole Pasteurized Milk) 1 pkg. Thermophillic Culture DS (Direct Set) contains: lactose, (ST) streptococcus thermophilus, (LB) lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. bulgaricus, (LH) lactobacillus helveticus. 1/2 tsp. Proprionic Shermanii contains: Proprionibacteria freudenreichii subsp. Shermanii *½ tsp. Calcium Chloride contains: Calcium Chloride (used only in pasteurized milk) *1/8 tsp. Lipase Power – Capilase (very sharp) You will only need this if using Pasteurized milk (an animal based enzyme used to enhance flavor in cheese) 1/2 tsp. Rennet ¼ cup cool water 1 lb. Sea Salt 2 Stainless Steel Pots 1 Slotted Stainless Steel Spoon 1 yard of cheese cloth 1 Colander 1 Stainless Steel Ladle 1 Thermometer 22 Epistola de caseis et operibus lactariis et modo quo in Rhiticis regionibus et alpibus parantur, 1556: “Letter from Jacob Bifrons to Conrad Gessner”, 1556, Translated by Rikke D. Giles (Aelianora de Witringham), http://staff-www.uni- marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/bifrun.htm, http://staff-www.uni-marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/decaseis.htm for a scan of the original pages, translation found at http://www.florilegium.org 9
  • 10. 1 Cheese Press 1 Cheese Mould & Follower 1 timer 1 large plastic container (Tupperware style) 2 Reed Mats to place the cheese on A Hard Cheese in the Emmental Style 23 Modern Method: 2-gallon raw whole milk (Raw Milk will give you a richer cheese) 1 pack of Thermophillic Culture DS contains: lactose, (ST) streptococcus thermophilus, (LB) lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. bulgaricus, (LH) lactobacillus helveticus. (this is used for temperatures over 110º) ½ tsp. of Proprionic Shermanii contains: Proprionibacteria freudenreichii subsp. shermanii 1/8 tsp of Lipase Power contains: Goat lipase, salt and non-fat milk for 2 gallons of milk if using pasteurized milk ½ tsp. Calcium Chloride contains: Calcium Chloride (needed only if pasteurized milk is used) ½ tsp of Rennet for 2 gallons of milk 1/4 cup of cool water to dilute the rennet 1 lb. Coarse Sea Salt (for brine) Step One: Place milk into large pan (fig. 10). Warm milk until it has risen to a temperature of milk to 90° F. (Use the in-direct warming method using a large metal pan in a sink of warm water, or inside of a second larger pot), and add the Thermophillic Starter, (if using pasteurized milk also add Lipase Power (during the pasteurization process most of the naturally occurring lipase is ruined)24, and Calcium Chloride.) Step Two: Remove ¼ cup of milk from the pot and add the Proprionic Shermanii add to milk cover and let sit for 10 minutes. Step Three: Add Rennet (diluted to 1/4 cup of cool water) and stir for several minuets. Let milk sit covered for 30 minutes at 90º F. or until a curd has formed and a clean break (the curd should have what is called a clean break, which is if a clean knife is put into the curd the curd should separate cleanly). Step Four: Cut the curds in ¼ inch cubes continue to stir the curds at 90 degrees for 40 minutes. This is commonly called Fore-working. Step Five: 23 “any rich soft cheese”, Brears, Peter, A Taste of History, London, 1993, pg.134 24 Lava, Shari, What is Lipase Powder?, December 08, 2010, http://www.ehow.com/facts_7462852_lipase-powder_.html, December 08, 2010 1
  • 11. Heat the curds to 120 degrees slowly maintain the curds at this temperature for 30 minutes, and continue stirring. Test the curds for what is called the “proper break”. Take a handful of curds and wad together then rub it in your palm. It should break apart into individual pieces. This will show that the curds are cooked enough. Now let them sit for 5 minutes. Step Six: Pour off the whey to the level of the curds. Place the warm curds into a cheese cloth lined mold. Fold over one edge of the cheese cloth, and place the follower. Step Seven: Place mould and follower into the cheese press and press at 10 pounds for 15 minutes. Step Eight: Remove from the press take and redress the cheese and flip it over and return to the press and press at 15 pounds for 2 hours. Step Nine: Remove from the press, flip and redress the cheese return to the press for 12 hours at 15~20 pounds. Step Ten: Remove from mould and place in cold brine for 12 hours. Step Eleven: Remove cheese from the brine wipe dry and place on a reed mat at 50~55 degrees and 85% humidity for 7 days, turn daily and wipe with a cloth dampened with salt water. Do not wet the cheese. Step Twelve: Remove cheese from the cold place into your cheese box on a reed mat, leave at room temperature (70~75 degrees) for 2~3 weeks at room temperature, turn daily and wipe with cloth dampened in salt water. After 2~3 weeks you should notice a swelling and rounding of the sides of the cheese this is part of the Eye formation. Step Thirteen: Place the cheese back into your refrigerator at 45 degrees with 80% humidity for at least 3 months (or longer for a sharper flavor). Turn weekly and wipe as needed with damp cloth and salt water.25 The cheese is ready to eat after 6~12 months, but for a milder flavor cheese is ready after 3 months. The longer you age this cheese the stronger the flavor should be and the dryer it maybe. In February of 2012 this round of Emmental will be 12 months old. Steps: 25 Carroll, Ricki & Robert, Cheese making made Easy, United States: Capital City Press, 1996, page 36~37 1
  • 12. Cut the curds curd after 1 hour of heating at 90F Fore working & Wading Warm curds placed in to mould Follower added In press Brine 1
  • 13. After 2~3 weeks at room temperature At 10 months of age Example of using cheese Tier to check on progress of cheese Observations: During the aging process I was able to check on the progress of the cheese twice using what is called a Cheese Tier (see picture above). Basically you are taking a core sample a small piece off the end and replacing the rest back into the hole. With the sample in hand 1
  • 14. I smelled it, checked the texture, and color, and then tasted it. In cheese making you are using all of you senses. The next time I will check on the cheese will be at A&S in February of 2012 and it will be 7 months old then. Conclusion: Some of the early lessons I learned in making hard cheeses were patients had to be number one. The cheese you sampled today has been aging for one year. In the production of hard cheeses time, controlled humidity, and temperature are your friends. Not enough of one or too much of any one of these could effect your final product. Some of the lessons that apply to making this style of cheese are size matters. According to my research the size of the holes in your cheese is proportional to the size of the cheese round. My first cheese was small there for the holes were very small. Another important lesson I learned was to either use rubber gloves one pair for each cheese I am working on or wash my hands between handling the different types of cheese I am making. My first round of Swiss had a blue under flavor. This was from the fact that I had handled my Blue cheese earlier and had cross flavored my round of Swiss by transferring some of the blue mold spores to the Swiss. Though not bad it was not the flavor I was wanting. I have also learned that time is much more critical for making hard cheeses, and the process of making hard cheeses is not nearly as forgiving as making soft cheeses. On adding rennet I learned early on that a little goes a long way and adding two much of something in the case of making cheese can be a bad thing. Adding not enough rennet and your curd will not set, but I have found that you can add a little more if necessary. Adding to much rennet will give it a rubbery texture and a bitter under taste. This also will happen if your rennet is too old. Another important lesson learned is use the freshest milk possible for the best flavor and cheese. This last statement is important because it explains a couple of written statements I found in period sources that talked about the time of year and the quality of the cheese products produced. For example in the spring and early summer the milk is rich and contains a large of amount of protein and milk fat due to new pastures and lactation for their young, so the cheese is going to be very rich in body and flavor. If the milk is in the fall then it is not as rich due to the decline of pasture feeding and that they are no longer lactating, so the cheese produced in the fall will take more milk to produce a pound of cheese due to a lower amount of protein and fat making the milk thinner (the cream that comes to the top is not as thick as in the spring/ summer milk). What the animals eat also effect the flavor of the cheese as well. Another lesson that applies as much now as then is keeping things clean, “morning milk in fair cleansing pans in such place as no dust may fall therein”. There are times when no matter what you do the milk will not set and all you can do is start over and feed the previous batch to the pig. 1
  • 15. This is a process I have been learning about for the last 4 years, I started Medieval Cheese Forum a two years ago (www.medievalcheese.blogspot.com) so I could keep track of mistakes and successes, share information I have learned about cheese making also. Enjoy sampling the cheese. Warming milk Slotted ladle & strainer 26 Fig. 10 Warming the milk 26 From Tacuinum Sanitatis (ÖNB Codex Vindobonensis, series nova 2644), c. 1370-1400) http://www.godecookery.com/afeast/foods/foods.html 1
  • 16. 27 Fig. 12 Roman Cheese Press in form and function very similar to those found from 600 – 1600 A.D. Materials Referenced: 1. Fig.137. Cheese; from the Theatrum Sanitatis, Library Casanatense, Rome, http://www.godecookery.com/afeast/foods/foods.html 2. Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris, http://images.imagestate.com/Watermark/1276116.jpg 3. Trowbridge-Filippone, Peggy, Swiss Cheese Varieties, http://homecooking.about.com/od/cheeseinformation/a/swisscheesehist.htm 4. Prehistoric hut gives clues to ancient Alp life, Jul 25, 2009 - 18:05, http://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/Specials/Border_Stories/Features/Prehistoric_hut_gives_clu es_to_ancient_Alp_life.html?cid=7525194 5. Kitchen Daily – Food Encyclopedia, Emmental, http://www.kitchendaily.com/encyclopedia/definition/emmental/847 6. Carr, Sandy (1985), The Mitchell Beazley Pocket Guide to Cheese, London: Mitchell Beazley 7. History of Cheese, 01/06/10, http://www.world-of-cheese.com/history.htm 8. Grosvenor, Dr. Gilbert H., A family of cheese makers stands outside their wood home in the Alps, Alps, Switzerland, National Geographic Stock Photo, #1321140 9. Epistola de caseis et operibus lactariis et modo quo in Rhiticis regionibus et alpibus parantur, 1556: “Letter from Jacob Bifrons to Conrad Gessner”, 1556, Translated by Rikke D. Giles (Aelianora de Witringham), http://staff-www.uni- marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/bifrun.htm, http://staff-www.uni- marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/decaseis.htm for a scan of the original pages, translation found at http://www.florilegium.org 10. Epistola de caseis et operibus lactariis et modo quo in Rhiticis regionibus et alpibus parantur, 1556: “Letter from Jacob Bifrons to Conrad Gessner”, 1556, Translated by 27 Roman Cheese Press, Greyware circular straight-sided bowl, used for draining the Whey from cheese, c. 450 A.D., http://www.museumoflondonprints.com Unless otherwise noted all other pictures are my photography 1
  • 17. Rikke D. Giles (Aelianora de Witringham), http://staff-www.uni- marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/bifrun.htm, http://staff-www.uni- marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/decaseis.htm for a scan of the original pages, translation found at http://www.florilegium.org 11. Taylor S. Kennedy, Photographer, National Geographic Stock, ID#991879, http://www.nationalgeographicstock.com/ngsimages/explore/explorecomp.jsf? xsys=SF&id=7887 12. Power, Eileen, The Goodman of Paris, New York, 1992, pg.169 13. Arne Emil Christensen, Professor, Dr. Phil. at the University Museum of National Antiquities in Oslo, author of this article (He specializes on shipbuilding history and craftsmanship in the Iron Age and the Viking period), http://ezinearticles.com/?Dairy- Products-in-Anglo-Saxon-Times-%28Part-of-the-Anglo-Saxon-Survival-Guide %29&id=3754387 14. Farlow, Melissa, Photographer, National Geographic Stock, ID#1114587, http://www.nationalgeographicstock.com/ngsimages/explore/explorecomp.jsf? xsys=SF&id=7887 15. Kimetha Loidolt, Photographer, 8/2011, Taken at Dairy in Lathrup, Mn 16. The Project Gutenberg eBook “The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby”, www.guten- berg.org/files/16441, “To make Silpp-coat cheese” 17. Dawson, Thomas, The Good Housewife’s Jewel, Southover Press, 1996, pg.17~18 18. Viking Answer Lady, http://www.vikinganswerlady.com/food.shtml 19. At the Table of the Monks: Cheese, Of Course (Part V), http://gherkinstomatoes.com/ 2009/05/22/at-the-table-of-the-monks-cheese-of-course-part-v/ 20. Take a Thousand Eggs or More, from Hortus Sanitatis, Mainz, 15th century, pg. 40 21. Columella II de re Rustica V-IX, Translated by E.S. Forster & E. Heffner, Book VII, pg.285~289 22. Epistola de caseis et operibus lactariis et modo quo in Rhiticis regionibus et alpibus parantur, 1556: “Letter from Jacob Bifrons to Conrad Gessner”, 1556, Translated by Rikke D. Giles (Aelianora de Witringham), http://staff-www.uni- marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/bifrun.htm, http://staff-www.uni- marburg.de/~gloning/bifrun/decaseis.htm for a scan of the original pages, translation found at http://www.florilegium.org 23. Brears, Peter, “any rich soft cheese”, A Taste of History, London, 1993, pg.134 1
  • 18. 24. Lava, Shari, What is Lipase Powder?, December 08, 2010, http://www.ehow.com/facts_7462852_lipase-powder_.html, December 08, 2010 25. Carroll, Ricki & Robert, Cheese making made Easy, United States: Capital City Press, 1996, page 36~37 26. From Tacuinum Sanitatis (ÖNB Codex Vindobonensis, series nova 2644), c. 1370-1400) http://www.godecookery.com/afeast/foods/foods.html 27. Roman Cheese Press, Greyware circular straight-sided bowl, used for draining the Whey from cheese, c. 450 A.D., http://www.museumoflondonprints.com 1