SOUL ODYSSEY by Lans Brahmantyo

Soul Odyssey
Lans Brahmantyo

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Soul Odyssey
Lans Brahmantyo

Soul Od y s s e y
Lans Brahmantyo

with text by Oscar Motuloh

75 black & white photographs

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self portrait at the mount sinai bedouin cafe

Co n t e n t s

Introduction 8 Quiet Moments 56

Soliloquy Photography 10 Good vs Evil 69

Cairo 18 A ‘Free Market’ 78

Sinai 20 Free Spirit of Light 94

Old City of Jerusalem 22 Missed but Not Regretted 107

Bethlehem 24 Eureka! 129

Nazareth 26 Biography 132

Galilee 28 Acknowledgements 134

The Message, The Blessing 32 Colophon 136

An Unexpected Other World 44

“It would be very interesting to preserve
photographically not the stages but the
metamorphoses of a picture. Possible one
might then discover the path followed by the
brain in materializing a dream.”

Pablo Picasso

< ‘lost’ mount carmel
> ‘home’ – old city of jerusalem

INTRODUCTION
8 The Middle East brings up many gruesome images of
violence, terrorism, suicide bombs, wars, prejudice, and
religious conﬂicts. It was never on my list as a place
to visit—at least not in the short-term. Furthermore,
Indonesia does not have a diplomatic relationship with
Israel for reasons I could never comprehend. My mother,
Katharina, has visited the region three times before
on pilgrimage tours. So has my wife, Yvonne. And yet,
despite what they had experienced and told me, somehow
I was never quite able to imagine enjoying myself there.
In addition, the idea of going to what is supposedly God’s
home-ground to the three big religions of the world
brought out a feeling of uneasiness in me.

It was November 2004 when my Mom asked me again After a few days, I was quite amazed by the region’s During this trip, many wonderful and miraculous events 9
if I would accompany her on a Christmas trip to the Holy contrasts; from the dusty, rocky deserts of Egypt with took place. As we were entering Israel, the story in
Land and also a visit to Petra, Jordan... Petra?! Now, that its dark-skinned, wrinkled people to the lush green, Genesis of how the Jews were roaming around the Sinai
was a very enticing proposition as it is a famous and orderly, hi-tech Israel with its white-skinned Jews, to the Desert for 40 years before they were allowed by God to
appealing site for me to photograph. Petra is the location depressing and poor Palestinian lands and people, to the enter the Promised Land was actually something I could
of the last Indiana Jones film. It is surely at the top of my rocky, mountainous roads of Jordan, all within just a few relate to my personal situation as a secular man. I must
list of possible destinations, followed by the Pyramids hours drive. As this was supposedly a pilgrimage, there say the religious and historical aura of the places we
in Giza. I wasn’t even thinking about Sinai, Jerusalem was hardly any free time for me to really explore and find visited was very strong. But nothing could top the most
and the other Israeli-Palestinian sites. Preparations places to photograph, other than times when we were unexpected experience for a secular man like myself:
went smoothly as I got approval from my wife to take souvenir shopping, which, thank God, can last a good I was so warmly ‘touched’ by the Holy Spirit in Marah,
the 14-day journey with my Mom and sister, Dita. So in hour or even more for Indonesian tourists. Egypt that from then on I could no longer question God’s
late December, off we went on a Gulf Air flight via Abu existence and the blessings in my life. A ‘sightseeing’
Dhabi and Bahrain to Cairo. I was, to my surprise, in an trip to Petra turned into a real pilgrimage for me and, in
extremely good mood and looking forward to this new the end, a very personal ‘soul odyssey.’ This is my story
experience. After all, I did think I needed to take a break and my thoughts as captured through the viewfinder of
from my daily chores. my cameras.

Lans Brahmantyo

SOLILOQUY PHOTOGRAPHY

The lengthy Trojan War had just ended. The rancid smell After the war ends, Homer continues with ‘The Odyssey.’ In SOUL ODYSSEY by Lans Brahmantyo, the journey is 11
of blood from the embers of the battlefield is still vivid in In the style of a tale, the story revolves around Odysseus, but a route. It is like a process by which his determination
the mind of Odysseus, the king of Ithaca. With a look of the veteran warrior who inspired the making of the becomes a destination. His photographic creation can be
fury and a broken heart, he remembers the souls of his famous giant ‘Trojan horse,’ and his long journey back to called a ‘visual soliloquy’ because of the way it expresses
fellow warriors, especially his brave best friend Achilles his homeland of Ithaca where he believes that his family a yearning for a very personal spiritual enlightenment.
who died at the Skae gate. His chest is severely bleeding is still alive. It is a two-decade long journey of that tests Never without a camera, Brahm, as friends usually call
from an arrow shot by Paris, the son of Priam, king of Troy. both body and soul, and is full of great adventures and him, captured a variety of events and activities that
The arrow actually comes from a bow guided by the god challenges. ‘The Odyssey’ is a dangerous journey, full of touched his heart during his pilgrimage to the Old City
Apollo, who hated Achilles. Love triggered the war. Paris’s tests of survival and sacrifice for Odysseus, who battles of Jerusalem and several locations in the Middle East, all
love for and kidnapping of the beautiful Helen caused the raging seas. He survives them all because of his deep of which have a historical and spiritual significance. With
it. As soon as Menelaus, Helen’s husband and the king longing to be reunited with his beautiful wife Penelope, a solemn reverence for his surroundings, he let his heart
of Sparta, became aware of the kidnapping—according and their child Telemachus. His strong faith in being control his finger in pressing the shutter. In this case,
to ‘The Iliad’ by Homer—in anger, he orders his armadas reunited with his family makes him decline Calypso’s offer the eyes were but the windows of the soul. A number of
to sail across the sea to reclaim his wife, to destroy Troy’s of immortality with her. The hedonistic Calypso is Atlas’s personal symbols and signs appeared and became things
walls and to conquer the city-state. Achilles accepts daughter and has fallen in love with Odysseus. But his of beauty. They expressed what was happening and what
Odysseus and Nestor’s invitation to participate in the war, goal is to return to Penelope. Odysseus survives his quest, he felt during his spiritual enlightenment.
despite having foreseen his own demise during the siege. despite numerous setbacks and ultimately returns home,
Fate has prepared him. He has chosen a short but glorious all in the name of love.
life, instead of settling for a long but uneventful life.
‘The Iliad’ is a saga about Achilles’s choice to live a short
but dignified life as a warrior and be remembered through
the ages.

12 With his photography equipments, Brahm seemed to The style of pilgrimage photography offered by Brahm is In SOUL ODYSSEY, the simplicity of angles stands out in
be practicing a ritual, taking pictures that at times were similar in concept to that of the German photographer, his photographs and, thus, illustrates his explicit strength.
spontaneously captured because of spiritual stories he Peter Bialobrzeski, when he made his spiritual journey Using this realistic approach, Brahm is successful in
obscurely remembered. As a child, Brahm was often to India. However, it is different from the ideas of Max recording the meeting point between the perceptions of
absent from his Sunday school classes but on this journey, Pam for whom the panorama of a place is really only a the conscious mind in seeing a location at a particular
it seemed that his spiritual memory was reawakened. footnote on the trip. It is also different from the style of time and the subconscious connection with a place and
He is not a professional photographer, but photography Peter Beard who regards his journey as an escapade full time that is already recorded in the memory. Pressing
was invented for anybody who wants to express himself of satyrs. Brahm presses the shutter innocently in order to the shutter can be interpreted as ‘blowing a soul’ into the
visually. His profession as a graphic designer and collector get something that touches his feelings and that leaves a images as well as creating the shape. In addition, it is like
of paintings and antique art books give him a suitable memorable impression. connecting time and space along parallel lines, erasing
aesthetic background for his photography. His artistic geographical points on the world map. Feelings, energy,
touch and documentary approach often ﬁll his work with intuition, and photographic techniques seem mixed
a realistic, human sensibility. together when the decision to press the shutter is made.

Once, on his way home from Chama Alley to Santa With that idea in mind, let us have a look at the first Another reflection of this phenomenon can be seen in the 13
Fe, New Mexico, the late Ansel Adams was amazed by photograph of SOUL ODYSSEY, an image selected as ‘the photograph of a monk praying solemnly in the Church
a panorama he noticed and hastily prepared his 8 x 10 front gate’ of the book. Heavy clouds are rolling over the of the Transfiguration in Mount Tabor. Brahm made the
camera to capture the image. He had to race against time, Old City of Jerusalem, taken from the angle of Mount monk the subject of the photograph in an asymmetrical
as the clouds were moving in a direction that was visually Olive. It is one of the strategic vantage points for enjoying composition. It gives the impression that the subject
less dramatic. The ‘Moonrise at San Hernandes, New the Old City of Jerusalem with its Dome of the Rocks stands out with the black stonewall in the background, but
Mexico’ was, thus, created and became one of his greatest (El Aqsa Mosque) standing firmly in the middle of the its texture appears soft. Or, take the case of the photograph
works. The dramatic image he created was the result of scene. In the foreground is a Jewish cemetery covering of a middle-aged man wearing modern attire walking
his accuracy in recording a natural phenomenon that the area, while in the background there are a number of along Al Mujahideen Road. It is one of the routes of the
was already decided by the photographer’s inner soul. It tall buildings representing modern western Jerusalem, Way of the Cross (Via Dolorosa). Or, the image of a black-
came into existence when he saw the moonbeams that set inhabited almost exclusively by Jews. Look at the cover skinned woman in her bright white cloak standing in
alive the field of coarse grass in the graveyard behind the of the book. A symbol of enlightenment is shown in the front of an Ethiopian Orthodox church wall near Christ’s
old San Hernandes village church. One of this maestro’s picture of Musa, the son of a Bedouin café owner. The café tomb. Or, consider the photograph of the silhouette of two
special qualities was his sensitivity to his own intuition is at the foot of Mount Sinai. When the photo was taken, old Egyptian women who are walking through one of the
when taking a dramatic natural panorama and making it the sun accidentally created a flare that resembles a halo alleys near the Giza pyramids. Dominated by black, raised
not only beautiful, but also alive as if it had a soul. from heaven on the celluloid’s infrared. hands, it creates a silhouette with a hidden mystery.

14 Another work captures the shadows of bars reflected on Then, there is Suleiman, a young man who works at a One important aspect of the book is that Brahm has
the rough stone surface on which the body of Christ was coffee/tea house. He is standing in front of a chapel on chosen photography to visually express his very personal,
once laid to rest on Good Friday and gloriously risen 2000 top of Mount Sinai. It seems that Brahm has recorded a spiritual experiences. Sharing and showing visual records
years ago. This work, along with the image of the horrible scene he remembered from the biblical story of Moses of private feelings has become a means of positive
Armageddon area in Megiddo, has the power to make one who, he imagined, once stood on the same spot when he interaction between people. Words can only become part
quiver. The picture of the portrait of the late Yasser Arafat brought the Ten Commandments to his people. There of a strong work of photography. The cool and soft images
hanging in the administrative office of the Church of the is also a group of seagulls flying peacefully over the offered by Brahm’s photographs contrast with Jerusalem,
Nativity in Bethlehem, where Jesus was born—the picture stern of a tourist’s boat in the Sea of Galilee. Look at the so-called ‘City of Peace.’ It has a gloomy history with
sees the portrait as having great charisma, although its the photographs of the quiet and peaceful Garden of many tears and much bloodshed. Besides Christ’s blood
position is like that a caged bird, much like the life of Gethsemane. Palestinian children are playing in the street that dripped along the Via Dolorosa until death took Him
Yasser Arafat himself who governed his people from an in Jericho, the oldest city in the world. And an interesting in Golgotha, there are thousands of other deaths caused
office surrounded by Israeli soldiers. work that ends this collection, a photograph in which one by conflicts and wars which have occurred and which
black-skinned pilgrim is raising his hands, having just continue in the Holy Land even today.
received some kind of spiritual enlightenment.

The ‘City of Peace’ has been occupied by a numerous 15
warriors and nations. They include Nebuchadnezzar,
Alexander the Great, the Romans, the Persians, the
Ottomans (who built the walls with three towers and seven
gates surrounding the center of the Old City in 1540), the
British, and the repressive Israeli government that has
caused so many years of suffering for the Palestinians.
The Holy City was surrounded at least 50 times, occupied
36 times, and destroyed 10 times. Contemporary
Jerusalem is an exhausted and fatigued old Holy City. She
is tired of the violence and bloodshed that continue to
occur within her walls. Therefore, let the message of peace
blow with SOUL ODYSSEY and ﬂourish, especially in the
lands of the oppressed, everywhere on this planet.

Oscar Motuloh

CAIRO
18 Cairo—the jewel of North Africa, While the City of Cairo sprang from The skyline of Cairo was quite clear
the city of a thousand minarets, the foundations of a ‘recent’ town, and blue, but the horizon on that
the melting pot of ancient and the area around Cairo was originally December day was a bit on the dusty
modern Egyptian civilizations, and settled in Paleolithic times and side because of the desert landscape.
a triumphant city—is the capital of developed in Neolithic times. It was The aura of a third-world country
Egypt. With over 17 million people, Menes, the legendary ﬁrst King-God was very strong although well
it is the largest city in the Middle of the Dynastic period, who united camouﬂaged when evening came
East and Africa and extends along Egypt and established his capital and the belly dancers performed on
the banks of the Nile River and to in Memphis—15 miles south of a cruise on the Nile.
the south of its fertile delta. Cairo. Nearby Memphis was the
contemporary religious center of
On located in the community the
Greeks called Heliopolis.

< ‘summit’ – al muallaqa church cairo
‘sanctuary’ – khafre’s pyramid giza

SINAI
20 All three of the West’s great So, from Sinai begins one of the
religious traditions—Judaism, Bible’s most memorable sagas. No
Christianity and Islam—recognize story has done more to put Sinai on
Sinai as a holy land, a vast expanse the map than Exodus, and for many,
traversed by time and again by a visit to the land where manna fell
prophets, saints, pilgrims and from heaven and Moses received
warriors. Sinai is most familiar the Ten Commandments is nothing
to many as the ‘great and terrible short of a pilgrimage. Many of the
wilderness’ through which Moses places mentioned in Exodus such
and the Israelites wandered for forty as where the Israelites crossed the
years. Many of the world’s most Red Sea or where they ﬁrst set foot
memorable conquerors have passed in Sinai are actually still unknown.
through Sinai as well. The Arab– However, the place called Marah
Israeli conﬂicts of the last century mentioned in Exodus is precisely
raged across the Sinai as well and known and still exists.
their passage is still evident in the
ghostly wreckage that marks certain
parts of the Suez.

‘egalité’ – mount sinai

OLD CITY OF JERUSALEM
22 The Old City of Jerusalem—the Her streets have for tens of I arrived in Jerusalem on Christmas The kibbutz is a unique rural
Mountain of God—is like a thick centuries been the front lines Eve. Celebrations were quite community, a society dedicated
book with each page another of holy conflicts between potent subdued compared to Christmas in to mutual aid and social justice
chapter in its history. In each period, theological and cultural forces. The Indonesia. No posters or billboards which fulfills the idea ‘from each
different people and rulers stamped city has been burnt and ruined by for special Christmas sales or big, according to his ability, to each
their particular mark on the face of devastating sackings and sieges fifty colorfully-lit Christmas trees. Rather, according to his needs.’ The kibbutz
the city. The walls that surround the times in thirty centuries. Over and Christmas was celebrated within children performed a staged drama
Old City today were built during the over, often in the name of God, her families at home. I celebrated of the birth of Christ after a nice
Ottoman period by Sultan Suleiman streets have run with blood, and her the cold and rainy Christmas in a dinner. It was a simple but touching
the Magnificent in the sixteenth temples have been razed to rubble. kibbutz of Christian Jews on the Christmas. I felt the real Christmas
century. Today, one enters the city outskirts of Jerusalem. spirit and how humble a Christmas
through seven gates (An eighth gate, should be.
The Golden Gate, in the eastern wall
of the Temple Mount was sealed by
the Muslims). The gates lead to the
different quarters of the Old City:
the Christian Quarter, the Armenian
Quarter, the Jewish Quarter and the
Muslim Quarter.

‘struggle’ – al mujahideen road jerusalem

NAZARETH
24 Nazareth, the ‘City of Annunciation,’ One of the largest and most
is the city of Mary, the Virgin magniﬁcent churches in the Holy
Mother of Jesus where the angel Land is the Catholic Church of the
Gabriel revealed to Mary the Annunciation, built over the place
imminent birth of John the Baptist where the angel Gabriel appeared to
and Jesus. It is also the largest Arab Mary. Dedicated in 1969, the new
city in Israel. Picturesque red roofs structure is built on two levels in
and white stone churches ramble order to integrate and preserve the
haphazardly down the slopes of this ancient site.
ancient Galilee hillside, the summit
of which overlooks the panorama of
the entire Jezreel Valley.

‘abandoned’ – nazareth from the foothills of mount tabor

BETHLEHEM
26 Bethlehem, currently under the In Bethlehem, I missed my bus for Suddenly, from a distance I heard
Palestinian authority, lies only 5 km the first time. I was busy chatting someone screaming my name:
to the south of Jerusalem. It has its and photographing with street “Brahm! Brahm! Brahm!… Are you
own special character and is a site souvenir sellers, a falafel café Brahm?” He was in a VW Jetta
of great significance in the stories owner and several young men in when I came up to him. “Hop in.
of the Old Testament. Located on that evening on my way out of the Where did you go? Your group has
the mountain road which, from Church of Nativity. I was thinking left and they are waiting for you
ancient times, linked the main that my group was still behind me now,” he told me. Obviously for him,
hilltop cities of Samaria, Schecem, for a while until I realized my bus I was quite easy to find as I look
Bethel, Jerusalem, Bethlehem and had left its parking spot. Forcing different from the locals and there
Hebron. Bethlehem’s location at the myself not to panic, I roamed were not many Oriental tourists left
edge of the desert made it a meeting in and out of the small streets in the area. My ‘rescuer’ worked
place for farmers, shepherds and hoping my bus was just moved to at a souvenir shop frequented by
the nomadic peoples of the desert. another space. Indonesian tourists who was kind
In Hebrew, ‘Bethlehem’ means enough to look for ‘the missing
‘House of Bread.’ In Arabic, it man.’ As he drove me back to where
means ‘House of Meat’. Either way, I was supposed to be, I imagined
Bethlehem’s rural setting gives it a the look on the faces of my fellow
very special, pastoral atmosphere. travelers when they saw me. But,
lucky for me, they were still too busy
shopping for souvenirs to notice
my return.

‘pacifier’ – church of the nativity bethlehem

GALILEE
28 The Sea of Galilee and the fertile The upper Galilee has no cities. It’s Galilee has a tradition of political
valleys surrounding it are like an rural and remote. It’s located in the autonomy. It’s a kind of quasi-
earthly Garden of Eden. It is one highest hills of the land of Israel, a anarchistic ideal, that this loose
of the most beautiful landscapes of very remote area along the borders tribal confederacy is ruled directly
the entire Middle East region and of Lebanon with very treacherous by God. The term Galilean seems
there are three major trans-Galilean terrain and isolated mountains. to connotate an outsider, an
routes that link it east–west and only People speak Aramaic and Hebrew. non-traditional Jew who is either
a few roads that go north–south. It Tiberias is the anchor city of lower rebellious or resurrectionist. Even
is not by chance that these scenic Galilee, a less conservative region for some, the term Galilean also has
shores provide the backdrop for so that is more open to change, a political meaning. Because of its
many important events in the life where Greek-speaking people are distance from Jerusalem, Galilee
of Jesus. It is 22 km long by 12 km quite plentiful. has become a center of not only
wide and lies approximately 210 social dissent, but of economic
meters below sea level. protest as well.

‘disconnected’ – sea of galilee
> ‘genesis’ – mount sinai

THE MESSAGE, THE BLESSING
32 “I have a special message from the In Exodus, Marah is where Moses We arrived there as the sun was I received my calling right at
Holy Spirit for you! I don’t know and the Jews, who had just about to set. Scenically, there was sunset when Marianne grabbed
what it is yet, but I can see it in your crossed the Red Sea and been nothing really special about it. Just my arms and took me to a more
eyes and everything will be revealed saved from the Pharaoh’s army, an ancient water well in the middle secluded area. She held both my
to you in Marah,” said Marianne, stayed temporarily. It’s where God of a desert just off the Suez Canal, hands, started praying and then the
our Egyptian evangelist tour leader, turned the bitter-tasting water littered with cans and garbage, and words and messages from the Holy
when she introduced herself to me into drinkable water and healed surrounded by traditional Bedouin Spirit just ﬂuidly came through
on the bus in Cairo. Immediately, many diseases. stalls. There, we ﬁrst sang our her mouth, mentioning all my past
I was thinking whether this was the praises and prayed for each other in wrongdoing, lust, bitterness, and
reason why I had taken this trip. the chilly evening. No matter what disappointments that all eventually
I didn’t even know where or what we did then, I was very anxious and led me to have a ‘yo-yo relationship’
Marah was—at least, not until she nervous to actually hear and receive with God.
explained about it to the group on ‘the special message.’
our way to Sinai from Cairo.

It was such a powerful and precise Then, God asked me to submit my In Marah, God wanted me to 33
delivery, and yet so comforting. soul to be cleansed by the blood become a better ‘son,’ a better
He knew what I was thinking and of Jesus and commit myself to person, a better caring father to my
feeling even when words were not Him so that I could receive His family, a better friend to my friends
spoken. I tried to ‘debate’ Him... blessings right there. I’ve never so that they may also be spiritually
twice, and both times He instantly felt so thankful to still be given the blessed and come back or return
commanded me to not listen to the chance to be ‘corrected’ while I’m to Him. He also wanted me to rely
voice of the devil. That was enough still alive—that, in itself, was more solely on Him in everything I do
for me to beg for His mercy and of a blessing than anyone could ask as He will not disappoint me. In
forgiveness for not taking Him so for. A heavy weight had been lifted Marah, God touched and healed me.
seriously in my 38 years of life. off my shoulders. It was like I had
gotten a new lease on life.

36

‘edgy’ – mount sinai
‘anxious’ – mount sinai

‘expecting’ – mount sinai
‘pilgrimage’ – mount sinai

AN UNEXPECTED OTHER WORLD
44 “Hello my name is Musa! My father Then, another Bedouin boy came
has a café down there, please help up to me. Mohammed Suleiman
us, we’re poor people… come for was his name, and he begged me
a drink of coffee, ok? The cafe is to give him money to get himself a
number 5. Remember Musa Café,” new pair of jeans. He kept referring
said an innocent-looking Bedouin to, and actually kind of forced me,
boy who tapped my shoulder to notice the one-and-only pair of
when I was having a moment of torn jeans he was wearing. I told
contemplation at the summit of him that I only had 10 dollars left in
Mount Sinai and enjoying the full my pocket… 1 dollar I had already
view of the fantastic scenery of promised to use at Musa’s cafe
rocks and the perfect blue sky after later, and the rest was to pay for
the big, multi-racial crowds left the camel ride on my way back to
the Sinai summit site at around 8 St. Catherine Monastery… but he
am. Musa was collecting the rented kept insisting. Finally, he proposed
blankets that people used to protect that I take photos of him and his
themselves from the freezing wind. buddy Khaleb for two dollars. And
I promised him a pair of jeans if I
have the chance to visit Sinai again
in the future.

On the way down, I looked for and Musa was only wearing leather The single click with the only At the St. Catherine Monastery, 45
visited Musa’s Café only to find that sandals and socks, yet he walked infrared film I had left produced Musa bid me farewell and did
it was run by Musa’s father whose so quickly and with such ease an unexpectedly, otherworldly, not even ask for money. I gave
name was also Musa and an elder along the rocky steps that I could stunning photograph—just as if him what I had left in my pocket,
brother who was also Musa. Three hardly keep up with him. But, I was an enlightened and glowing Moses thanked him for accompanying me
Musas in one morning—not a bad determined not to fall too far behind. was walking down Mount Sinai with and off he went into the Bedouin
encounter. When I asked the elder The thin mountain air did not help the Ten Commandments as the sun crowds. It felt great to have made
brother which path I should take to my breathing either, but there was flared and the rock bowed down to friends with such exotic, ethnic
go down from the summit, he told one instance when I just pushed honor him. Definitely one of my people. It definitely destroyed any
me that he’d accompany me because myself to pass him, so I could take favorite shots from this trip. preconceived notions I had about
he happened to have go back to his a photo of Musa from the front. He Bedouins as unfriendly, tricky,
‘dormitory’ in St. Catherine too. It was very shy in front of the camera, extorting people.
was a nice coincidence as I had been unlike his younger brother. To my
left behind by my group and there dismay, I was also facing the sun
were no more camels for rent. So I and didn’t even manage to measure
went all the way down on foot. the light for such conditions. Yet, I
clicked the shutter anyway with my
already shaking knees as if there
was no other chance.

50

‘sighted’ – the burning bush at st. catherine monastery
‘rollercoaster’ – st. catherine monastery

QUIET MOMENTS
56 In every church I visited, I noticed In Nazareth, I saw a priest walking On the rooftop of an Orthodox
that there was almost always up and down an alley, finally church next to the Church of the
someone engaged in a deep, quiet, settling on a white, plastic chair Holy Sepulchre, there was even
spiritual conversation with God against the big, bare wall of the an Abbysinian monk who was just
even when no one was around. And church. He was just looking straight standing firmly outside in the cold
that does not exclude priests, nuns ahead, barely blinking his eyes. The as if he was guarding the site, and
or pastors. They never seemed strange combination of furniture yet he was actually deep in prayer.
to be bothered by the swarming materials immediately caught my And inside the Holy Sepulchre, an
groups of tourists walking around, eye; a modern plastic chair and an Orthodox priest stood in a corner
creating a buzz in the rooms in old-wooden Bible table. I took the and calmly closed his eyes. I could
unrecognizable languages and picture as the priest was enjoying see from the lines in his forehead
making noises with their cameras. a moment of contemplation that he was definitely not napping.
In Bethlehem, an old nun stood in the not-so-quiet “church”,
very still, fully concentrating on her purposely creating a tense, unusual
prayer but with her eyes open. She composition that raises questions
didn’t seem to notice me moving for those who view it.
around looking for the best angle
and composition to capture this
intense moment.

< ‘everlasting’ – el muallaqa church cairo
‘mystery’ – orthodox church jerusalem

‘strength’ – orthodox church jerusalem

‘shelter’ – via dolorosa jerusalem

‘vision’ – the church of nativity bethlehem

> ‘contemplating’ – church of the transfiguration mount tabor
> ‘madonna’ – stella maris church haifa

GOOD vs EVIL

Armageddon, according to the Bible, It was while enjoying this scenery But, it is how the good wins that 69
will be the ultimate war mark- that I realized that beneath this matters. When everyone chooses to
ing the end of the world. The idea peaceful surface there may very see good things, hear good things,
brings horrible images of death and well be a battle raging. That inside speak good things and feel good
destruction. But these images are in a very peaceful-looking or even a things then there will be a real peace
stark contrast to the peaceful, lush religious individual, there is always among humanity. And that can
green valley of Megiddo on the west- that battle between good and evil. only start by ﬁrst having a peaceful
ern edge of the Jezreel Valley from That there is ‘Armageddon’ inside relationship with God.
the top of Mount Carmel, where every man when they speak, see
Armageddon is supposed to begin. things, hear things, touch things,
and taste things.

‘hope’ – jericho

‘immersed’ – greek orthodox church jerusalem

72

‘conquered’ – museum of nazareth
‘risen’ – the garden tomb golgotha

74

‘memoriam’ – the church of nativity bethlehem
‘prayer’ – ayalon valley

A ‘FREE MARKET’
78 It was a big relief for me that we did I had my share of bad and good On the other hand, in Giza, while
not visit any big, modern shopping luck when it came to meeting I was shooting the street market, I
malls during this trip. Traditional people in the market. Some sellers met this kind-looking, dark-skinned
marketplaces still exist and provide were aggressive in offering their and wrinkled Egyptian man, named
a different perspective on the merchandise, some just sat around Tabba, who was carrying a basket
lifestyle of the people in that region. waiting for a transaction to happen. of bread on his shoulder from his
They are always such an exotic But once I ran into this one old Arab house to his store across the main
feast for my eyes and other senses. man selling tobacco and cigarettes street in Giza. I was hungry at that
Everything about the marketplace: in a store near the Church of the moment, perhaps from waiting
the narrow, ﬁlthy and slippery Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. He for the shoppers to ﬁnish their
alleys; the lack of proper lighting suddenly got very, very upset while purchases of Papyrus artwork.
even during the day; stepping over I was ‘observing’ his unique store I smiled at him, stopped him and
the patches of water puddles; the with my cameras on my shoulder. quickly grabbed one bread. Then I
smell of freshly-baked breads or the He practically screamed what I asked him if I could buy the bread,
freshness of fruits and vegetables; supposed were all bad words and but only had ten American dollars.
the colorful jewelries and clothing; made strong gestures even though I I asked if he had any change. It
the sneaky cats and dogs searching wasn’t shooting with my camera. was really a silly question as he had
for left-over food, and even the sight I could not understand what he was done no business that morning…
of lamb hung on a meat rack. An saying. Anyway, I got the message, It turned out to be my lucky day
anti-mall environment that has quickly made an apologetic because he offered me three pieces
become rare and under-appreciated gesture and left the store. From a of bread and returned the cash.
these days. few meters away, I could still his He said with a big smile, “OK… for
screaming voice. you… OK.”

< ‘doomsday’ – megiddo
> ‘temptation’ – giza

‘triumvirate’ – the hanging church cairo

‘past’ – old village of nazareth

86

‘searching’ – the muslim quarter jerusalem
‘immortal’ – the muslim quarter jerusalem

‘memorabilia’ – nazareth

90

winter clouds over the old jerusalem 2004

‘pleasure’ – the jewish quarter jerusalem
> ‘spirit’ – the village of cana

FREE SPIRIT OF LIGHT
94 When we photograph children, I had one encounter with the I quickly turned my attention away It was during this impromptu
we often think of the phrase “Say children of Jericho, a devastated from Hala, approached and joked moment that I captured their ‘free
cheese!” Children always fascinate city under the administration of the a little with her. She never turned spirit.’ When I was done and about
us. Perhaps, it’s because of their government of Palestine. off that big smile of hers. She was to leave, the little girl approached
personality—they are often seen I was photographing the Mount in front of her house with a small my bus and sweetly handed me her
as people with rich inner lives and of Temptation when I saw a boy bouquet of wildflowers. Obviously, flower bouquet. So, I guess she liked
uncensored sensibilities. Or, it’s earnestly begging for small change. Hala got jealous and tried to join us me. I must have made her happy.
their universally sweet innocence, An interesting character—he was again. They teased each other, espe-
imperfection, playfulness, imagina- bullying his smaller friends so he cially Hala to the small boy who was
tion, red cheeks, big smiles, free could get the most money. His apparently the little girl’s younger
spirit, honesty and fun that make us name was Hala. I told him I’d give brother. Perhaps, out of his inno-
wish to still be like them. Kids are him some coins after I took his cence, he always ran away when
a sincere bunch and when they like photo so he immediately agreed to someone wanted to give him coins.
you, they really, really like you. pose. While photographing Hala, I
could see through my viewfinder
from a distance a little Arab girl
with a big smile standing next to a
small boy probably laughing at how
Hala was acting.

‘stand’ – via dolorosa jerusalem

96

‘playful’ – mount of olives
‘puppy’ – the muslim quarter jerusalem

100

‘hiding’ – via dolorosa jerusalem
‘youths’ – the muslim quarter jerusalem

‘delivery’ – mount sinai

‘innocence’ – mount of temptation jericho

MISSED BUT NOT REGRETTED

Petra was my first priority I went to bed. In the morning 107
destination to explore and capture before I woke up, I felt like I had
through my camera and the reason a little dust in my left eye. It was
why I was on this trip. I have seen so dry and badly irritated that I
so many pictures of the various could not open my eyes. I tried to
spots within the vast complex and clean them out with water, but I
even memorized the best time to had obviously scratched my cornea
shoot them. But the ‘unexpected’ again. It became painful so quickly
happened after I went for a night that I had to be taken to Amman
swim... well, float to be exact, on by my roommate to an eye hospital
the Dead Sea at Marriott Hotel the to be treated while the rest of the
night before our morning departure group went to Petra. Alas, I can only
to Petra. It was quite an experience imagine Petra until my next trip to
to ‘float’ in the dense, salty water. Jordan. There was no regret at all as
Unfortunately, I forgot to take a now I understand why it all must
special care in washing my eyes have happened.
out afterwards.

‘magnets’ – the jewish quarter jerusalem
> ‘presence’ – church of st. anne bethesda

110

‘forbidden’ – the chapel of the ascension

111

‘knowledge’ – the church of annunciation nazareth

113

‘obligation’ – the wailing wall jerusalem
‘generations’ – the wailing wall jerusalem

115

‘surrender’ – the church of the holy sepulchre jerusalem
‘blessed’ – the hanging church cairo

‘silence’ – the church of the holy sepulchre jerusalem

118

‘illumination’ – church of annunciation nazareth
‘crucified’ – church of annunciation nazareth

120

‘respect’ – church of nativity bethlehem
‘suspicion’ – church of nativity bethlehem

123

‘devoted’ – st. helena’s chapel jerusalem
‘betrayal’ – church of annunciation nazareth

‘sacrificed’ – the garden of gethsemane
> ‘miracles’ – st. peter’s primacy tabgha

EUREKA!

On this pilgrimage, I departed 129
with the feeling of being spiritually
unprepared to come to the City
of God. It was against all my
logical reasoning to go without my
signiﬁcant others only to ﬁnd out
that I had been separated from them
just so I could receive His message
clearly without any disturbances
or distractions. At that moment, I
learned how to break down in His
presence and just listen to His
words. I’ve followed the Light and
opened my heart. I’ve found my
long-lost, wandering soul.

‘enlightened’ – mount sinai
> ‘free’ – sea of galilee

Please look upon the religious people of the Land of Snows,
Ruthlessly conquered with harsh tactics by malevolent invaders;
May your compassion exert itself with miraculous speed
To stop the torrent of blood and tears!

Ah!
Those cruel people defeat themselves as well as others,
Driven to insane behavior by the devil of addictive passions;
Have mercy and restore their decent insight of right or wrong,
Use love and kindness to reunite them in glory of human friendship!

Dalai Lama

LANS BRAHMANTYO

Lans Brahmantyo, who preferred In 1993, Brahm joined Alembic An expert in high-end digital drum 133
to be called as Brahm, was born Systems International and founded scanning, digital imaging and
in Surabaya, Indonesia on 7 July Q• Image & Advertising before piezography, he began his own
1966. After graduating with a joint his decision to return to Jakarta, journey into the wonderful world of
BSc in Electrical Engineering/MBA Indonesia in late 1994 and founded photography in 2002 and is mainly
in Management Information Afterhours Design in 1996, a interested in landscape, architecture,
Systems degree from the University consulting ﬁrm specializing in human interest and street-scene
of Denver, Colorado in 1992, he graphic communications. He also photography. He is an avid traveler
worked for NeXT Computer co-founded Hexart Publishing in and collects both art and antique
Inc. as a Campus Consultant for 1999 and Red & White Publishing books. Brahm currently lives in
metropolitan Denver area. in 2004. Jakarta with his wife and four sons.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

First and foremost, I would like to praise Jesus Christ, my Oscar Motuloh for his vision and encouragement to hold Didier Hamel who has helped me with the launch of the 135
Lord and Savior, for the odyssey and the chance He’s given my own first exhibition. For his ability to read through book and the photo exhibition in his respected art gallery.
me to renew my soul. my ‘visual stories’ without me even telling him anything
significant or the details about the events. I am always Kayus Mulia, my black & white photography ‘guru,’ for his
Katharina Olga Louise, my lovely and caring mother, for inspired by his photojournalist style which stresses story- support and for relentless pushing me to follow the light,
her invitation to go to the Holy Land so I could receive ‘the telling over technicalities. open my heart, trust my guts and not to rationalize things
Message.’ And also, to my father, Suhendro Suwarno. all the time.
Joop Ave for opening my first photo exhibition and
Yvonne Hubner, my beautiful and loving wife and my four launching SOUL ODYSSEY to the public. Arbain Rambey for helping spread the news to the public.
sons—Mada, Luigi, Mikha and Andrew—who encouraged
me to accept the invitation and go without them despite Dean Outerson for the English translation and editing of Reza Inovani for his energy and round-the-clock
the fact that we badly needed a family Christmas together. all the text in this book. supervision of the printing of this book.

Antaresa Hendita, my sister, who had to put up with my Peter Natadihardja for his friendship through my Enrico Domhardt of Leica Camera AG and Jimmy Soo
missing the bus twice during the trip. professional years as a graphic designer and for of Schmidt Marketing for giving me the opportunity to
his assistance with the meticulous details of the be acknowledged as a Leica photographer by supporting
Marianne Aziz Kamel who delivered ‘the Message’ to me printing process. this book.
and who has chosen me as one of her spiritual sons.
Welly Bolung for his generous support in printing this Also, thank you to all the wonderful people I met
Guntur Santoso for his continuous friendship and for book with such good quality and such beautiful finishes. and photographed and who talked to me about their
letting me to use this type of paper for the first time in interesting life stories.
Indonesia and thus make this book truly unique. Also, Hinsatopa Simatupang, my roommate during this trip,
for his encouraging support in publishing this book and who together with Elizabeth, were willing to miss their
helped arranging the financing and sponsorship. trip to Petra to help take me to the eye hospital in Amman. God bless you all!

COLOPHON
136 Any copy of this book issued by the publisher as a Copyright © 2005 Duotone separation in Adobe Photoshop CS 8.0
paperback is sold subject to the condition that it shall not Photographs: Lans Brahmantyo Laid out in Adobe InDesign CS 3.01 on Apple Power
by way of trade or otherwise be lent, resold, hired out or Writers: Oscar Motuloh and Lans Brahmantyo Macintosh G5 dual 2.5 GHz running Mac OS X 10.3.9
otherwise circulated without the publisher’s prior consent Editor: Dean Outerson Typefaces: FF Scala and FF Scala Sans families
in any form of binding or cover other than that in which Book design: Lans Brahmantyo Printed in Jakarta, Indonesia
it is published and without a similar condition including Book production: Peter Natadihardja and Reza Inovani Computer-to-plate printing: Indonesia Printer
these words being imposed on a subsequent purchasers. Inks: Pantone Process Black and 423U inks
The Copyright of the photographs remains with the Paper: Tintoretto Neve 160 gsm, Magnomatt 300 gsm,
First published in Indonesia in 05.05.2005 by photographers or the archives and agencies of the Cialinen bookcloth by Paperina Dwijaya
Red & White Publishing photographers. Partial or complete reprints, as well as,
Jalan Merpati Raya 45 electronic or mechanical duplication, of any kind, is All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be
Jakarta 12870, Indonesia not allowed. reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means,
+62 (21) 8306819 Original photographic prints can be purchased from the electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording
info@rwpublishing.com author, please contact brahm@afterhoursgroup.com. or any other information storage and retrieval system,
without prior permission in writing from the publisher.
A collector’s slipcased edition of 100, signed and Photographs taken with
numbered hardback copies of Soul Odyssey is available Leica M7 fitted with Summicron 35 mm ASPH SOUL ODYSSEY and Lans Brahmantyo have been
accompanied by a signed 10 x 8 inch photographic Leica MP fitted with Elmarit 24 mm ASPH acknowledged and supported by Leica Camera AG.
piezography print. Fuji Neopan 400 and 1600 B&W negative films
Kodak HIE infrared film
Original photographic prints of any size can be purchased Scanned by The ScanStation with
directly from the photographer. Heidelberg Tango drum scanner with LinoColor 6 ISBN: 979-98449-3-2

4

In SOUL ODYSSEY by Lans Brahmantyo, the journey is but a route. It is like a process by which his determination
becomes a destination. Using a realistic approach in SOUL ODYSSEY, the simplicity of angles stands out in Brahm’s
photographs, illustrating his explicit strength. His photographic creation can be called a ‘visual soliloquy’ because of the
way it expresses a yearning for a very personal spiritual enlightenment. Never without a camera, Brahm captured a variety
of events and activities that touched his heart during his pilgrimage to the Old City of Jerusalem and several locations
in the Middle East, all of which have a historical and spiritual signiﬁcance. What is important in this book is that Brahm
has precisely chosen photography as his medium to visually express his feelings to those who believe in the power of
symbology in photography. A collection of images of a soul-refreshing odyssey in the subjective spirit of peace.

ISBN: 979-98449-3-2

SOUL ODYSSEY by Lans Brahmantyo

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