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NOVEMBER




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        u.s.A. $2.95
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              $3
A REPORT:
        WHATYOU
              DON'TKNOW-
BUTSHOULD-ABOUTAHAS
                     INCI'THEYMAI]ETHEIIt                the U.S. [ixrtl anrl Drug Atlnrinistraliorr.                         Y o r k C i t y , l h e A t l A l e v e l s i r r so r n e( 'o r .n -
                     ov er-the- r 'ount erdebut          As a result, llailey says,the l'l)A is "t'ur-                        lranies'prorlucts so low that tlre prorl-
                                                                                                                                                           ale
                     in Avon's Anew Perf'ect-            r ent l y ev al ua t i n g t h e C I l l s t u t l y a n t l i s     uct hastew AHA benefits. rl in rareirr-         An
                     ing Cornplex five years             pur s ui ng adr l i t i o r r a l s l u t l i e s " o n A f {A       s t a n ( 'e s , a ( 'o r n [ ) a n y r n a y n o t w a l l t l ( )
                     ago, alpha hydroxy a<'irls          saf'ety. rnain conr:erns'/
                                                                      Its                            AHAs' poten-             r e v e a lr l u e s t i o n a l r l yr i g h l e ve l s.
                                                                                                                                                                   I
                     ( AllAs ) h av e s paw neda         t i al li r r bur ni n g t h e s k i n . a r r r l l e a r l h a t        Wa r n i n g s a l r o u t s u r r se r r si l i r i l v u r e
t h rivin g , rnu ltinrillion-rl oll ar i ndus t r y .   I or r g- t t r r nr t r r l i g h t n r a k e u s e r s n r o r e
                                                                            us                                                also absent.lf a <'ornparry                     knows througlr
'['l'u,y'rcin virtually every skin-r:are protl-          v ul ner al r l e l o t h e s u r r a n t l t h e r c f o r e t o    i t s o w n e v a l u a t i o n s t h a t a p r o r l r r <'ti s
uct f rorn fa<'e<'reanrs [<rot
                           to      scrubs to eye         skin r:an<'er.                                                       strongenoughto increasetht'risk of sLrn
gels.'fhisingrerlienl     has marlethe cosmet-                                                                                r l a n r a g e . h e C I l t r e c o r n n r e n r l sh a t l h i s
                                                                                                                                              t                                        t
ics intltrstryrich anrl the consunrer       happy              CONFUSION AT THE COUNTER                                       lre rroterl the Jrxrrluct's
                                                                                                                                              on                            lalrel.Horvt'ver'.
lre ca u seit <loe swhat women and m any                 P ic k uJ r any t l r u g o l r l e p a r t r n e n ts I o r e       rnost<'ornpanies             rlon't yet rkr this.
ntett want: reducesvisible signs of aging                A HA pr ot l uc t a n r l l o o k a t t h e l a l x r l . Y o u
anrl sun rlarnage.Flnthusiasrn       inr:reasetl  as     will finrl a list of ingretlients,requiletl by                                 RISKS IN THE SALON
publishedme<lit,al      studiesshowedAHAs                l aw, l r ut no n r e n l i o n o f p e r <'e n t a g e s r   o      "Nrxrntimepeels" have lret:orne lx)l)r.l-
                                                                                                                                                            as
to lxr elfer:tiveat sloughing tlearl <'ellsantl          pH lt,vels.                                                                                        'l'he (illl
                                                                                                                              lar as rnanicrrres rnanysalons.
                                                                                                                                               in
lrrnnxrtingthe growth of healthy new ones.                   Why? Sorne         r:onrparries       t:lainrthat list-          ret,orrtttrerttls thesenonrrretlit'al
                                                                                                                                                         that                                             1x't'ls
It wasn'tuntil thesear:irls     a<:hieverl  wide-        ini ; thes e r l et a i l s w i l l r : o n {'u s eh e <r o n -
                                                                                                            t                 r : o r r l a i nn o n l o r e t h a n i l O u e r t 'e r r tA Il As
spreatl usage that a few complaints anrl                 surner."'l'he averaf{eperson rloesn'[know                            w i t l r a p l I o l r u rl e s st l r a r r l . ( I - r r r r , l i r ti r r ,l r
                                                                                                                                                                                   i
('on('ernslrgan to srrr{a<:e.   Now, recent re-          wlrat pH levelsnrean.She nrightnot real-                             s t r o n g r l o s e . 'l 'h e s ef i r l n r u l a s a l e s tr o n l {
lx)rts  suggestthat AHAs may somelimes                   ize thal tlre forrnulanratters             just as rnuch.            enoughlo l'enlove                      the outer'layt'r of skin,
rleliverl<xr   rnuchof a grxxlthing antl might           'f he nunr l r t : t 's nl r e r n i s l t 'a <l i n g . " a y s
                                                                               <'a                                  s                                                        (if
                                                                                                                              anrl il'userlirllrrrrperly thr:1r'r'lis lcli orr
in some instances      even be harmlul.                  JaniceTeal, I'h.l), vit'e presirlent                 of'Avon         l r x r L r n go r t h e p r t x l u <'t t s e l f i s u r r sta l r l e )
                                                                                                                                                                                 i
                                                         Skin Care l,alxrratories.                                            lxrseseriousrisks. Nightrrrare                                  lelxrr'lsfirr'
         A CLOSER LOOK AT AHAs                               In sorrrc(:ases,a ('ornl)arry               nray httve           Itigltt:r-<'on<'t:r'rtlation inr'lurlelrrrrrr-lrels
 I'iveryone   wants to love AHAs. Hanl st,i-             s onr et hi ngt o h i r l e . A <'<'o r t l i n t o l ) i a n e
                                                                                                           g                  i n g . 1 r e l r t t i t r t r ,lrrt,lr l r r r . s s .i g r r r r . r r l l r .g r r -
                                                                                                                                                                                   p                  ir
t'trcehas proven that they work. But there               B er son, M . l ) . , a r l e r n r a t o l o g i s ti r r N e w     larities arrrlst'alrirrg.llow- (Otntitttrul)
are <questions.    What are the lorrg-terrn    ef-
fe t:ts o f th e b urning and i ll it at i on? Do
they skrugh trxr rnur:hol'the skin's outer
layr.r,lt,avingit vulnerableto su1 damage                                            what labels tellyou
                                                                                        the   don't
anrl inler:tion?'                                          Somecompaniesprovide      information percentages
                                                                              specific        about         and
    In responseto these (ioncems,the Cos-                  pHlevels phone youask.Here's short onwho's
                                                                  by     if            the    list    telling
                                                                                                            what.
nretic IngrerlientReview (CIll), an ann of
                                                           l. ltPlll llY0R0l( is oneof thefewcompanies hasalways
                                                                             This                               that            listedAHApercentages.
tht' Cosrnetir', 'liriletrv and h'ragrant'e
                                                           Thenumbers:     Sensitive Creme: percent
                                                                                     Skin         5          glycolic; RegularCreme Lotion: per-
                                                                                                                                       and       8
Assor:iation    (C1'1.'A),
                         launched an in<lepth
                                                           cent;Enhanced     Creme Extra
                                                                                    and       Strength  Oil-Free Formula: percent;
                                                                                                                          10          Deep Therapy Foot
s tu rly la st yea r. In J une, t he C TI 'A an-
                                                           Creme: percent.
                                                                     12          (While company's cream
                                                                                        the             foot       contains percent
                                                                                                                             12         AHAits highpH
notrncerl    the Clll's Irnrlings: glycolit,and
                                                           buffers strength. 80G552-5742 questions information
                                                                    the           Call              for            or             aboutpH levels,which
lat'tic a<'ids(the lrost comlnoll AHAs) are
                                                           arebetween and4.5percent.)
                                                                         4
salein <,osnretir.prrxluctslongas they're
                              as
userl in concentrations no higher than
                             of
                                                           2. llE0SIRlIl  Although company
                                                                                   this          doesn't percentages labels itsExuviance
                                                                                                          list             on        of            line,
l0 per<'ent,    with a pH level of no lessthan             it doeshave hotline(80G22t9411) willgiveyouthese
                                                                         a                        that                     facts: Exuviance RegularFor-
3.5. Although the report saysthat thesetwo                 mula(creams fluids): percent
                                                                           and         8        glycolic  acid;Sensitive Formula: percent
                                                                                                                                   4        gluconolac-
a cid s rlo no t signific antly inc r eas e t he                 (an
                                                           tone AHA       formula        with
                                                                                  made alpha beta and        hydroxy acids);Essential Lightener
                                                                                                                                      Skin         Gel:
potential for sun damage,it strongly urges                 10percent   glycolic acid.These  products        pH
                                                                                                      have levels 3.8.of
martufar:turerc put wamings on labels if
                   to                                      8. A|.|.mGfil callto thetoll-free
                                                                         A                    number   (888-727-63251yields  thefollowing  details
                                                                                                                                                 about
their parlir:ular prorluct does.                           thiscompany's AquaGlycolic
                                                                             line:               Facial  Cleanser: percent
                                                                                                                    12          glycolic;AquaGlycolic
    Many experts are unsatisfietlwith the                  Shampoo BodyCleanser: percent
                                                                       &                  14         glycolic compound;   AquaGlycolic  Face Cream:  10
CIR' s rep ort anrl rec on r m endat ions .                percent   glycoliccompound;    AquaGlycolic   Hand BodyLotion: percent. pH levels
                                                                                                               &               14          (All
" T o o tn a ny q ues tions hav e ler nai ned              are4.4-high    enough buffer higher
                                                                                  to       the        percentages AHAs.
                                                                                                                    of       These   productshave been
unansweretl,"says John Bailey, director                    on themarket fiveyears areoftenrecommended dermatologists.)
                                                                           for           and                           by
of the Offi<:eof Cosrnetics and Colors trt

I l.l.                                                                                                                                                                    N or er t t l rr l (I )i . (, i rrrrrrrrr
AHAs, it's up to you to be a vigilantcon-
                                                                                                                 sumer.  You needto consider   theseissues
                                                                                                                 and risks:
                                           (Continuecl) ever, salons are not regulated                           '1.Increased sensitivity
                                                                                                                              sun           There is grow-



oor-r-l
 lr-nq9
                                           by the FDA, and while cosmetologists                                  ing evidencethat most AHA products
                                           have lo be licensed by their state,require-                           make usersmore vulnerableto sun dam-
                                           rnentsvary greatly,saysthe FDA's Bailey.                              age."If you'reusing AHAs, weara sun-
                                              Scary but possible: A hairstylist might                            screen  with SPFl5 or higherdaily---€ven
                                           perforrn your glycolic peel. Skin-care                                if you haven'tappliedthe productthat


               NOXI                        rnanufar:turersare attempting to reduce
                                           the likelihoorl of this by offering training
                                           anrl guidelines, but countless salons slip
                                           through the <'racks.
                                                                                                                 moming,"saysBailey.
                                                                                                                 2. P regnancy' oN o  studi e s have been
                                                                                                                 done on whetherAHAs poseany dan-
                                                                                                                 ger to pregnant  women.We don't know



   lnor-ttl                                                                                                      whetherthe chemicals     themselves   can
                                              An ent:ouragingdevelopment: Some
                                           salonsare asking clients to fill out assess-                          affect the fetus," says Lynn D rake,
                                           nrent lbrnrs before booking AHA treat-                                M.D ., chai r of the departm ent der -
                                                                                                                                                   of
                                           nrcnts. lirr now, answering the questions                             matol ogyat the U ni versi t y of Okla-


Youn
   Guide                                        Nightmarereports higher-concentratio
                                                               on
toHoliday
       wow!                                     peels
                                                    include       permanent
                                                           burning,         redness,
    High-impact
              hair
    anomaKeup                                   pigment
                                                      irregularities scarring.
                                                                 and
    Fashion that
          finds flatter
     lnalanf           al. naa         h   orr lhe {irrrnsis lhe besl way of ensuring                            homaHealth Scienr:es      Centerin Okla-
     r r Drar rLoLr ;oo-l)U S Ie fS
                  t
                                           y our s al et y . H e r e 's w h a t a n y r e p u t a b l e          homaCity."For now,if you'repregnant,
    andhappiness-boosters                  s alon s houl r l {l n d o u t f r o m y o u :                        avoidthem."
    lrresistible
             food,                         O l)o you always burn, never tan'/ (If so,                            3, Non-Caucasian    skin No researchhas
                                           the sakrn shoulcl do a gentler peel.)                                 beenpublishedaboutrisk levelslor var-
    cocktails gifts
            and                            o Have you harl allergic reactions? (lf                               ious ethnic skin types.Lawrence         Moy,
                                           yuu've hatl reactionsto skin care,the salon                           M.D ., a dermatol ogi stn M anhat t an
                                                                                                                                             i
                                           nray re{useto do the peel.)o Are you preg-                            Beach,California,    formulates   different
Guys Honest
   Get                                     nant'/ O I)o you have heart, hormonal or                              products Asian skins.Somederma-
                                                                                                                             for
      you
7things shouldnever                        lhyrnirl lrrrrblerrrs;         skin (:an(,er;      diabetesor
                                           high o r l ow bl <x r dp r e s s u r e ?( T h e s a l o n
                                                                                                                 tologistscaution againstdeep peels for
                                                                                                                 darkerskins of all ethnicities.If you are
dotoa man bed
        in                                 nray have you <'heckwith a doctor.)o Are                              unsure,test AHA productson your arm
                                           y ou t a k i ng an y n r e <l i t : a t i o n s , c : l u d i n g
                                                                                               in                or checkwith your doctor.
                                           lr ir t h <'ont r olp i l l s , A <: r : u t . a no r t o p i c a l
                                                                                                e                4. Medi cati ons o researchhas been
                                                                                                                                   N
Readens
      Rate                                 r r r et lir : at i ons '/ l f y o u a r e t a k i n g s u n -
                                                                      (                                          doneon how A H A s reactw i t h cer t ain

theTnends                                  sensitizingnredir:ations, salon won't do
                                           the peel.)o Have you ever had an adverse
                                                                                     the                         drugs.Nonetheless, of AHAs may
                                                                                                                                        use
                                                                                                                 be contraindicated you'reusing any
                                                                                                                                       if
Theyear's
        best/worst                         reat:tiunto a cosmetic product? (The s:rlon                           drug that sensi ti zes  your s ki n t o sun-
                                           nray perlirrnra gentler peel.) "These forms                           Ii ght. B i oMedi c,a compa nyt hat sup-
fashion,
      beauty,                              are userl [o assessrisks so the esthetician                           pl i es A H A productsto do ct or s,cau-
rnen,
    celebs,
          everything                       knows whether to do a weaker exfolia-                                 ti ons agai nstusi ng A H A s w i t h "any
                                           tion-or none at all," says Barbara Sa-                                knownsensitizing     oral and topicalpre-
                                           lornone,C llO o{'Bioelements.                                         scriptionproducts"(suchas Accutane,
WomentheYean
   of                                            I t ' s al s o i r n p o r t a n t t h a t y o u a s k t h e
                                           s alon' s s t af f q u e s t i o n s , i n c l u d i n g :
                                                                                                                 tetracycl i ne)becausethese m edica-
                                                                                                                 tions in combination     with AHAs exac-
Doers darers
    and    to                              O What per(:enta€le                level are you recom-               erbateyour sensitivityto the sun. Call
insnire t-cnonSOfed
      /ot
il r vlJil    v   J/ vu         uvv       nren<ling my face, and why? o What
                                                             for                                                 your doctorif you'reunsureaboutcom-
                                           s it le el l er : t s or i r r i t a t i o n c a n I e x p e c t ?    bi nati ons.(For B i oMedi c' s l i st , call
bvdiet
     Coke                                  O What is your training? How often have                               800-736-515s.)
                                           you perlbrrned this treatment? o How                                  5. AHAoverload    How much is too much?

thedecember                                has t hi s pr odu c t b e e n t e s t e d ? O C a n I
                                           test it on my arm first?
                                                                                                                 There is no consensus     about the cumu-
                                                                                                                 lative effect of using creams,peels and

 issue sale
      on                                         lf the salon does not ask you questions
                                           or cannot answer yours, exit quickly.
                                                                                                                 w ashes.S o don' t aband on comm on
                                                                                                                 sensein excitement     over the real, dra-
                                                                                                                 matic resultswe know AHAs can offer.
november 18-                                    FOR NOW: A SAFE APPROACH
                                                      TO THE UNKNOWN
                                                                                                                 Stick with reputablecompanies, less-
                                                                                                                 is-more regimen-and don't put your
                                                                                                                                                      a

      miss
  don't   it!                              Until the cosmeticsand medical commu-
                                           nities come up with clearer answersabout
                                                                                                                 face in the handsof an AHA "exDert"
                                                                                                                 who really isn't one.
                                                                                                                                       November 1997, Glamour

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Truth in Beauty: What You Don\’t Know--But Should--About AHAs by NANCY ANGIELLO

  • 1. NOVEMBER HAIR ATTHE we lronsform 8 surprised HOWTO PSgr! much Flq*l ru u.s.A. $2.95 CANADA$3.50 FOREIGN $3
  • 2. A REPORT: WHATYOU DON'TKNOW- BUTSHOULD-ABOUTAHAS INCI'THEYMAI]ETHEIIt the U.S. [ixrtl anrl Drug Atlnrinistraliorr. Y o r k C i t y , l h e A t l A l e v e l s i r r so r n e( 'o r .n - ov er-the- r 'ount erdebut As a result, llailey says,the l'l)A is "t'ur- lranies'prorlucts so low that tlre prorl- ale in Avon's Anew Perf'ect- r ent l y ev al ua t i n g t h e C I l l s t u t l y a n t l i s uct hastew AHA benefits. rl in rareirr- An ing Cornplex five years pur s ui ng adr l i t i o r r a l s l u t l i e s " o n A f {A s t a n ( 'e s , a ( 'o r n [ ) a n y r n a y n o t w a l l t l ( ) ago, alpha hydroxy a<'irls saf'ety. rnain conr:erns'/ Its AHAs' poten- r e v e a lr l u e s t i o n a l r l yr i g h l e ve l s. I ( AllAs ) h av e s paw neda t i al li r r bur ni n g t h e s k i n . a r r r l l e a r l h a t Wa r n i n g s a l r o u t s u r r se r r si l i r i l v u r e t h rivin g , rnu ltinrillion-rl oll ar i ndus t r y . I or r g- t t r r nr t r r l i g h t n r a k e u s e r s n r o r e us also absent.lf a <'ornparry knows througlr '['l'u,y'rcin virtually every skin-r:are protl- v ul ner al r l e l o t h e s u r r a n t l t h e r c f o r e t o i t s o w n e v a l u a t i o n s t h a t a p r o r l r r <'ti s uct f rorn fa<'e<'reanrs [<rot to scrubs to eye skin r:an<'er. strongenoughto increasetht'risk of sLrn gels.'fhisingrerlienl has marlethe cosmet- r l a n r a g e . h e C I l t r e c o r n n r e n r l sh a t l h i s t t ics intltrstryrich anrl the consunrer happy CONFUSION AT THE COUNTER lre rroterl the Jrxrrluct's on lalrel.Horvt'ver'. lre ca u seit <loe swhat women and m any P ic k uJ r any t l r u g o l r l e p a r t r n e n ts I o r e rnost<'ornpanies rlon't yet rkr this. ntett want: reducesvisible signs of aging A HA pr ot l uc t a n r l l o o k a t t h e l a l x r l . Y o u anrl sun rlarnage.Flnthusiasrn inr:reasetl as will finrl a list of ingretlients,requiletl by RISKS IN THE SALON publishedme<lit,al studiesshowedAHAs l aw, l r ut no n r e n l i o n o f p e r <'e n t a g e s r o "Nrxrntimepeels" have lret:orne lx)l)r.l- as to lxr elfer:tiveat sloughing tlearl <'ellsantl pH lt,vels. 'l'he (illl lar as rnanicrrres rnanysalons. in lrrnnxrtingthe growth of healthy new ones. Why? Sorne r:onrparries t:lainrthat list- ret,orrtttrerttls thesenonrrretlit'al that 1x't'ls It wasn'tuntil thesear:irls a<:hieverl wide- ini ; thes e r l et a i l s w i l l r : o n {'u s eh e <r o n - t r : o r r l a i nn o n l o r e t h a n i l O u e r t 'e r r tA Il As spreatl usage that a few complaints anrl surner."'l'he averaf{eperson rloesn'[know w i t l r a p l I o l r u rl e s st l r a r r l . ( I - r r r r , l i r ti r r ,l r i ('on('ernslrgan to srrr{a<:e. Now, recent re- wlrat pH levelsnrean.She nrightnot real- s t r o n g r l o s e . 'l 'h e s ef i r l n r u l a s a l e s tr o n l { lx)rts suggestthat AHAs may somelimes ize thal tlre forrnulanratters just as rnuch. enoughlo l'enlove the outer'layt'r of skin, rleliverl<xr rnuchof a grxxlthing antl might 'f he nunr l r t : t 's nl r e r n i s l t 'a <l i n g . " a y s <'a s (if anrl il'userlirllrrrrperly thr:1r'r'lis lcli orr in some instances even be harmlul. JaniceTeal, I'h.l), vit'e presirlent of'Avon l r x r L r n go r t h e p r t x l u <'t t s e l f i s u r r sta l r l e ) i Skin Care l,alxrratories. lxrseseriousrisks. Nightrrrare lelxrr'lsfirr' A CLOSER LOOK AT AHAs In sorrrc(:ases,a ('ornl)arry nray httve Itigltt:r-<'on<'t:r'rtlation inr'lurlelrrrrrr-lrels I'iveryone wants to love AHAs. Hanl st,i- s onr et hi ngt o h i r l e . A <'<'o r t l i n t o l ) i a n e g i n g . 1 r e l r t t i t r t r ,lrrt,lr l r r r . s s .i g r r r r . r r l l r .g r r - p ir t'trcehas proven that they work. But there B er son, M . l ) . , a r l e r n r a t o l o g i s ti r r N e w larities arrrlst'alrirrg.llow- (Otntitttrul) are <questions. What are the lorrg-terrn ef- fe t:ts o f th e b urning and i ll it at i on? Do they skrugh trxr rnur:hol'the skin's outer layr.r,lt,avingit vulnerableto su1 damage what labels tellyou the don't anrl inler:tion?' Somecompaniesprovide information percentages specific about and In responseto these (ioncems,the Cos- pHlevels phone youask.Here's short onwho's by if the list telling what. nretic IngrerlientReview (CIll), an ann of l. ltPlll llY0R0l( is oneof thefewcompanies hasalways This that listedAHApercentages. tht' Cosrnetir', 'liriletrv and h'ragrant'e Thenumbers: Sensitive Creme: percent Skin 5 glycolic; RegularCreme Lotion: per- and 8 Assor:iation (C1'1.'A), launched an in<lepth cent;Enhanced Creme Extra and Strength Oil-Free Formula: percent; 10 Deep Therapy Foot s tu rly la st yea r. In J une, t he C TI 'A an- Creme: percent. 12 (While company's cream the foot contains percent 12 AHAits highpH notrncerl the Clll's Irnrlings: glycolit,and buffers strength. 80G552-5742 questions information the Call for or aboutpH levels,which lat'tic a<'ids(the lrost comlnoll AHAs) are arebetween and4.5percent.) 4 salein <,osnretir.prrxluctslongas they're as userl in concentrations no higher than of 2. llE0SIRlIl Although company this doesn't percentages labels itsExuviance list on of line, l0 per<'ent, with a pH level of no lessthan it doeshave hotline(80G22t9411) willgiveyouthese a that facts: Exuviance RegularFor- 3.5. Although the report saysthat thesetwo mula(creams fluids): percent and 8 glycolic acid;Sensitive Formula: percent 4 gluconolac- a cid s rlo no t signific antly inc r eas e t he (an tone AHA formula with made alpha beta and hydroxy acids);Essential Lightener Skin Gel: potential for sun damage,it strongly urges 10percent glycolic acid.These products pH have levels 3.8.of martufar:turerc put wamings on labels if to 8. A|.|.mGfil callto thetoll-free A number (888-727-63251yields thefollowing details about their parlir:ular prorluct does. thiscompany's AquaGlycolic line: Facial Cleanser: percent 12 glycolic;AquaGlycolic Many experts are unsatisfietlwith the Shampoo BodyCleanser: percent & 14 glycolic compound; AquaGlycolic Face Cream: 10 CIR' s rep ort anrl rec on r m endat ions . percent glycoliccompound; AquaGlycolic Hand BodyLotion: percent. pH levels & 14 (All " T o o tn a ny q ues tions hav e ler nai ned are4.4-high enough buffer higher to the percentages AHAs. of These productshave been unansweretl,"says John Bailey, director on themarket fiveyears areoftenrecommended dermatologists.) for and by of the Offi<:eof Cosrnetics and Colors trt I l.l. N or er t t l rr l (I )i . (, i rrrrrrrrr
  • 3. AHAs, it's up to you to be a vigilantcon- sumer. You needto consider theseissues and risks: (Continuecl) ever, salons are not regulated '1.Increased sensitivity sun There is grow- oor-r-l lr-nq9 by the FDA, and while cosmetologists ing evidencethat most AHA products have lo be licensed by their state,require- make usersmore vulnerableto sun dam- rnentsvary greatly,saysthe FDA's Bailey. age."If you'reusing AHAs, weara sun- Scary but possible: A hairstylist might screen with SPFl5 or higherdaily---€ven perforrn your glycolic peel. Skin-care if you haven'tappliedthe productthat NOXI rnanufar:turersare attempting to reduce the likelihoorl of this by offering training anrl guidelines, but countless salons slip through the <'racks. moming,"saysBailey. 2. P regnancy' oN o studi e s have been done on whetherAHAs poseany dan- ger to pregnant women.We don't know lnor-ttl whetherthe chemicals themselves can An ent:ouragingdevelopment: Some salonsare asking clients to fill out assess- affect the fetus," says Lynn D rake, nrent lbrnrs before booking AHA treat- M.D ., chai r of the departm ent der - of nrcnts. lirr now, answering the questions matol ogyat the U ni versi t y of Okla- Youn Guide Nightmarereports higher-concentratio on toHoliday wow! peels include permanent burning, redness, High-impact hair anomaKeup pigment irregularities scarring. and Fashion that finds flatter lnalanf al. naa h orr lhe {irrrnsis lhe besl way of ensuring homaHealth Scienr:es Centerin Okla- r r Drar rLoLr ;oo-l)U S Ie fS t y our s al et y . H e r e 's w h a t a n y r e p u t a b l e homaCity."For now,if you'repregnant, andhappiness-boosters s alon s houl r l {l n d o u t f r o m y o u : avoidthem." lrresistible food, O l)o you always burn, never tan'/ (If so, 3, Non-Caucasian skin No researchhas the sakrn shoulcl do a gentler peel.) beenpublishedaboutrisk levelslor var- cocktails gifts and o Have you harl allergic reactions? (lf ious ethnic skin types.Lawrence Moy, yuu've hatl reactionsto skin care,the salon M.D ., a dermatol ogi stn M anhat t an i nray re{useto do the peel.)o Are you preg- Beach,California, formulates different Guys Honest Get nant'/ O I)o you have heart, hormonal or products Asian skins.Somederma- for you 7things shouldnever lhyrnirl lrrrrblerrrs; skin (:an(,er; diabetesor high o r l ow bl <x r dp r e s s u r e ?( T h e s a l o n tologistscaution againstdeep peels for darkerskins of all ethnicities.If you are dotoa man bed in nray have you <'heckwith a doctor.)o Are unsure,test AHA productson your arm y ou t a k i ng an y n r e <l i t : a t i o n s , c : l u d i n g in or checkwith your doctor. lr ir t h <'ont r olp i l l s , A <: r : u t . a no r t o p i c a l e 4. Medi cati ons o researchhas been N Readens Rate r r r et lir : at i ons '/ l f y o u a r e t a k i n g s u n - ( doneon how A H A s reactw i t h cer t ain theTnends sensitizingnredir:ations, salon won't do the peel.)o Have you ever had an adverse the drugs.Nonetheless, of AHAs may use be contraindicated you'reusing any if Theyear's best/worst reat:tiunto a cosmetic product? (The s:rlon drug that sensi ti zes your s ki n t o sun- nray perlirrnra gentler peel.) "These forms Ii ght. B i oMedi c,a compa nyt hat sup- fashion, beauty, are userl [o assessrisks so the esthetician pl i es A H A productsto do ct or s,cau- rnen, celebs, everything knows whether to do a weaker exfolia- ti ons agai nstusi ng A H A s w i t h "any tion-or none at all," says Barbara Sa- knownsensitizing oral and topicalpre- lornone,C llO o{'Bioelements. scriptionproducts"(suchas Accutane, WomentheYean of I t ' s al s o i r n p o r t a n t t h a t y o u a s k t h e s alon' s s t af f q u e s t i o n s , i n c l u d i n g : tetracycl i ne)becausethese m edica- tions in combination with AHAs exac- Doers darers and to O What per(:enta€le level are you recom- erbateyour sensitivityto the sun. Call insnire t-cnonSOfed /ot il r vlJil v J/ vu uvv nren<ling my face, and why? o What for your doctorif you'reunsureaboutcom- s it le el l er : t s or i r r i t a t i o n c a n I e x p e c t ? bi nati ons.(For B i oMedi c' s l i st , call bvdiet Coke O What is your training? How often have 800-736-515s.) you perlbrrned this treatment? o How 5. AHAoverload How much is too much? thedecember has t hi s pr odu c t b e e n t e s t e d ? O C a n I test it on my arm first? There is no consensus about the cumu- lative effect of using creams,peels and issue sale on lf the salon does not ask you questions or cannot answer yours, exit quickly. w ashes.S o don' t aband on comm on sensein excitement over the real, dra- matic resultswe know AHAs can offer. november 18- FOR NOW: A SAFE APPROACH TO THE UNKNOWN Stick with reputablecompanies, less- is-more regimen-and don't put your a miss don't it! Until the cosmeticsand medical commu- nities come up with clearer answersabout face in the handsof an AHA "exDert" who really isn't one. November 1997, Glamour