Trials with Cotton Incorporated Demonstrate Effectiveness & Efficiency The trials, which focused on ways to integrate and bio-optimize textile processing in knits, show that biobased enzymes used in combination can eliminate the need for caustic chemicals, while dramatically reducing water and energy use, as well as overall processing time.

1. Enzymatic Preparation:
Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability
D l t f E h dP f & S t i bilit
A collaborative approach by Cotton Inc. and DuPont to integrate and optimize
enzymatic processing in knits
Mary‐Ann Ankeny Director Dyeing Research @ Cotton Incorporated, Cary (NC) USA
Nico van Schoot Marketing Manager @ DuPont Industrial BioSciences, Leiden NL
“Great Ideas in Cotton” – Hongkong, 22 May 2012

2. Agenda
• Introduction DuPont Industrial BioSciences
• Enzymes for Textiles
• Full Enzymatic Textile Processing (FETP), a new concept for sustainable textile
processing
• Cotton Inc. study FETP on knits
Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 2

3. DuPont Industrial BioSciences
W are applying our science t fi d solutions t major challenges…
We l i i to find l ti to j h ll
FEEDING THE WORLD REDUCING OUR DEPENDENCE KEEPING PEOPLE AND
ON FOSSIL FUELS THE ENVIRONMENT SAFE
Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 3

4. Textile enzymes today..
Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 4

5. PrimaGreen® enzymes
Enzymes:
• are biodegradable
• are made from renewable resources
• can replace corrosive chemicals
• can lower use of water and energy
PrimaGreen® enzyme products for textiles & garments:
• lower processing temperatures  decrease energy consumption & CO2 emissions
• allow combined processing
p g  decrease water consumption
p
• work at neutral pH  gentle & safer processing conditions
• are substrate specific  reduce fabric damage & weight loss
Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 5

6. Full enzymatic textile processing
… at neutral pH & mild temperature conditions.
Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 6

7. Agenda
• Introduction DuPont Industrial BioSciences
• Enzymes for Textiles
• Full Enzymatic Textile Processing (FETP), a new concept for sustainable textile
processing
• Cotton Inc. study FETP on knits
Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 7

8. Minimizing pH Adjustments
Conventional
C i l Enzymatic
E i
Conventional Scour/
Conventional Bleach
Cellulase Inactivation Dye Fixation Dye Fixation
Enzymatic Scour/
Neutralization Enzymatic Bleach
Incoming Water
Dye Exhaustion Neutralization Incoming Water Neutral Cellulase/ Neutralization
Dye Exhaustion
Acid Cellulase
Acid Cellulase
Each pH adjustment increases:
• processing time
• chemical usage
• potential for fabric damage
potential for fabric damage
Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 8

9. Whiteness Index – Bleached Goods
Enzymatic
Conventional
Standard Formula Alternative Formula
Garment Scale 77.21 66.4 75.17
Interlock
Full Scale 75.26 68.88
l
Garment Scale 75.17 62.39 71.76
Jersey
Full Scale 73.89 65.84
• The goods bleached with the standard enzymatic formula
did not match the level of whiteness of conventionally
did not match the level of whiteness of conventionally
bleached goods.
• The difference in whiteness level did not have a
significant impact on the color of dyed goods.
significant impact on the color of dyed goods
• The whiteness level can be increased by adjusting the
enzymatic formula if a higher degree of whiteness is
q
required.
Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 9

10. Process Comparison – Dark Shade
Total Time: 389
Total Fills: 13
T t l Fill 13
Total Time: 266
Total Fills: 7
Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 10

11. Process Comparison – Medium Shade
Total Time: 413
Total Fills: 14
T t l Fill 14
Total Time: 341
Total Fills: 8
Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 11

12. Process Comparison – Light Shade
Total Time: 350
Total Fills: 13
T t l Fill 13
Total Time: 250
Total Fills: 6
Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 12

13. Sustainability – Water, Steam, and Energy
PROCESS Time (mins) Water used (l) Steam Used (lbs) Power (kWH)
Conventional 415 14436 412.81 20
Dark Shade (Reactive Dye) Enzymatic 318 2371 331.26 15
% Improvement
%I t 23% 84% 20% 25%
Conventional 506 17063 532.86 25
Medium Shade (Reactive Dye) Enzymatic 369 6329 354.14 18
% Improvement
% Improvement 27% 63% 34% 28%
Conventional 443 15298 519.35 22
Light Shade (Direct Dye) Enzymatic 309 5756 288.04 16
% Improvement
% Improvement 30% 62% 45% 27%
Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 13

14. Fabric Testing – Dark Shade (Reactive)
Fabric Performance
Fabric Performance
Weight (oz/yd2) Burst Strength(psi) Pilling
Conventional 5.8 93.1 4.7
Full Scale
Enzyme 5.6 103.7 3.9
Interlock
Conventional 7.2 90.9 5.0
Garment Scale
Enzyme 7.0 87.4 4.9
Conventional 5.3 95.3
Full Scale
Enzyme 5.8 93.4
Jersey
Conventional 6.6 89.6
Garment Scale
Enzyme 6.5 86.5
Color Measurement
DEcmc %STR‐WSUM
Interlock 0.26 97.86
Garment Scale
Jersey 0.30
0 30 100.37
100 37
Interlock 0.30 97.52
Full Scale
Jersey 0.38 97.04
Color measurement data are the results from comparing the
enzymatically processed goods to their conventionally processed
enzymatically processed goods to their conventionally processed
counter part.
Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 14

15. Fabric Testing – Medium Shade (Reactive)
Fabric Performance
Fabric Performance
Weight (oz/yd2) Burst Strength(psi) Pilling
Conventional 6.1 104.8 5.0
Full Scale
Enzyme 6.7 95.6 4.8
Interlock
Conventional 6.7 89.5 5.0
Garment Scale
Enzyme 6.4 75.6 5.0
Conventional 5.9 99.5
Full Scale
Enzyme 6.4 92.4
Jersey
Conventional 6.4 89.1
Garment Scale
Enzyme 6.4 87.9
Color Measurement
DEcmc %STR‐WSUM
Interlock 0.22 97.46
Garment Scale
Jersey 0.19
0 19 99.27
99 27
Interlock 0.15 101.59
Full Scale
Jersey 0.17 100.31
Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 15

16. Fabric Testing – Light Shade (Direct)
Fabric Performance
Fabric Performance
Weight (oz/yd2) Burst Strength(psi) Pilling
Conventional 5.8 111.1 5.0
Full Scale
Enzyme 6.0 116.8 4.9
Interlock
Conventional 6.7 91.6 5.0
Garment Scale
Enzyme 6.7
67 99.8
99 8 4.9
49
Conventional 6.0 103.0
Full Scale
Enzyme 6.0 107.0
Jersey
Conventional
Garment Scale
Enzyme
Color Measurement
DEcmc %STR‐WSUM
Interlock 0.74 111.67
Garment Scale
Jersey
Interlock 2.33 82.42
Full Scale
Jersey 2.89 80.97
Color measurement data from the garment scale and full scale trials
are inconsistent.
are inconsistent
Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 16

17. Summary
• Ability to combine processes to reduce
Ability to combine processes to reduce
inputs
• Performance
– Instantaneous wetting
– G d hi
Good whiteness values
l
– Mote removal
– Strength and weight maintained
– Light, medium and dark shades possible
Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 17

18. Full enzymatic textile processing
Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 18