apparel manufacturing

1. Marker MakingMarker Making
 Definition:Definition:
precise arrangement of pattern piecesprecise arrangement of pattern pieces
oror
process of determining the most efficientprocess of determining the most efficient
layout of pattern pieceslayout of pattern pieces
Points to be considered beforePoints to be considered before
marker making:marker making:
•• Fabric width must be higher than marker width (1/2Fabric width must be higher than marker width (1/2
inch)inch)
 Fabric length must be higher than marker length.Fabric length must be higher than marker length.
 Length of the cutting table.Length of the cutting table.
 Production planning.Production planning.
 When pattern pieces are laid down on the piece of cloth,When pattern pieces are laid down on the piece of cloth,
the grain line should be parallel to the line of the warpthe grain line should be parallel to the line of the warp
in the woven fabric and wale in the knitted fabric.in the woven fabric and wale in the knitted fabric.

2. MarkerMarker

3. Marker MakingMarker Making
Marker Efficiency:Marker Efficiency:
the percentage of the totalthe percentage of the total
fabric that isfabric that is actually used inactually used in
garment parts.garment parts.
Area of pattern in the markerArea of pattern in the marker
Marker Efficiency =Marker Efficiency =
-----------------------------------------X 100%-----------------------------------------X 100%
Total area of the markerTotal area of the marker
planplan

4. MarkerMarker
 Factors influencing Marker efficiency:Factors influencing Marker efficiency:
•• Marker planner:Marker planner:
competency, experience, honesty and technicalcompetency, experience, honesty and technical
knowledge of the marker plannerknowledge of the marker planner
•• Size of the garments:Size of the garments:
Smaller and larger garment sizesSmaller and larger garment sizes Marker↓ Marker↓
EfficiencyEfficiency
MMedium garment sizesedium garment sizes ↑↑ Marker EfficiencyMarker Efficiency
•• Numbers of sizes in a style:Numbers of sizes in a style:
FFewer and higher numbers of sizes in a styleewer and higher numbers of sizes in a style ↓↓
Marker EfficiencyMarker Efficiency
MMedium numbers of sizesedium numbers of sizes ↑↑ Marker EfficiencyMarker Efficiency

5. PlotterPlotter

6. Marker MakingMarker Making
•• Marker length:Marker length:
Higher marker length Marker↑Higher marker length Marker↑
Efficiency.Efficiency.
•• Pattern Engineering:Pattern Engineering:
Marker efficiency can be increased byMarker efficiency can be increased by
changing pattern design of particularchanging pattern design of particular
parts of the garments.parts of the garments.
•• Fabric characteristics:Fabric characteristics:
Usually symmetrical fabricUsually symmetrical fabric ↑↑ MarkerMarker
EfficiencyEfficiency
Asymmetric fabric Lower marker↓Asymmetric fabric Lower marker↓

7. Marker MakingMarker Making
•• Marker making method:Marker making method:
Computerized method Marker Efficiency↑Computerized method Marker Efficiency↑
Manual method Marker Efficiency↓Manual method Marker Efficiency↓
•• Marker width:Marker width:
↑↑ marker width M.E. and easier marker↑marker width M.E. and easier marker↑
planplan

8. Methods of marker makingMethods of marker making
 A. Manual method.A. Manual method.
In this process, marker can be made in two waysIn this process, marker can be made in two ways
a.a. By using full size pattern:By using full size pattern:
-full size pattern pieces on marker-full size pattern pieces on marker paperpaper
oror
-directly on the top ply of the fabric in a-directly on the top ply of the fabric in a
spreadspread
b.b. By using miniaturized pattern:By using miniaturized pattern:
-full size pattern pieces are-full size pattern pieces are reducedreduced toto
1/5 of its original size1/5 of its original size by using pantographby using pantograph
-made by plastic sheet or thick board paper-made by plastic sheet or thick board paper
-Marker planning is done by using those-Marker planning is done by using those
miniaturized patternsminiaturized patterns
-reproduced full size using the mini-marker as-reproduced full size using the mini-marker as
a reference.a reference.

9. Methods of marker makingMethods of marker making
 Area Covered by pattern measured byArea Covered by pattern measured by
planimeter to get Marker efficiency.planimeter to get Marker efficiency.
 higher marker efficiency as control overhigher marker efficiency as control over
the marker is better than the full sizethe marker is better than the full size
patternpattern
 rapidly being replaced by computerizedrapidly being replaced by computerized
methodmethod

10. PantographPantograph

11. Features of manual marker makingFeatures of manual marker making
 time consuming and require a great deal oftime consuming and require a great deal of
spacespace
 errors and inconsistencies that may occur inerrors and inconsistencies that may occur in
grain variation, poor line definition,grain variation, poor line definition,
placement and alignment of pieces and slipplacement and alignment of pieces and slip
of the piecesof the pieces
 Accuracy of a manually made markerAccuracy of a manually made marker
depends on the skill of the individual whodepends on the skill of the individual who
laid out the marker and traced itlaid out the marker and traced it

12. Methods of marker makingMethods of marker making
B.B. computerized marker makingcomputerized marker making
 very accurate and provides the greatest opportunity forvery accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for
pattern manipulation, marker efficiency and shortestpattern manipulation, marker efficiency and shortest
response timeresponse time
 Production patterns may be developed on the computer orProduction patterns may be developed on the computer or
digitized or scanned in to the computerdigitized or scanned in to the computer
 parameters for markers are entered in to the computerparameters for markers are entered in to the computer
from cutting orders - style numbers, size distribution andfrom cutting orders - style numbers, size distribution and
fabric widthfabric width
 Protective devices are built in to the programs to ensureProtective devices are built in to the programs to ensure
the grain alignment and prevent overlapping of piecesthe grain alignment and prevent overlapping of pieces
 Automatic marker making may be used to determineAutomatic marker making may be used to determine
yardage requirements and fabric costs for designs prior toyardage requirements and fabric costs for designs prior to
line adoptionline adoption

13. Advantages of computerized methodAdvantages of computerized method
 Increases in material efficiency with subsequentIncreases in material efficiency with subsequent
decreases in material waste,decreases in material waste,
 Time and labor savings in making markers;Time and labor savings in making markers;
 Improvements in overall marker quality;Improvements in overall marker quality;
 Avoidance of backlogs during peak periods; andAvoidance of backlogs during peak periods; and
 Fast, precise cost proposals for clients.Fast, precise cost proposals for clients.

14. Disadvantages of computerized method:Disadvantages of computerized method:
 Initial investment is high.Initial investment is high.
 Skilled operator is required.Skilled operator is required.

15. Types of markerTypes of marker
 Open Marker:Open Marker:
Markers made with full pattern piecesMarkers made with full pattern pieces
 Closed marker:Closed marker:
Markers made with full pattern piecesMarkers made with full pattern pieces

16. Modes of markerModes of marker
A.A. nap-either-way:nap-either-way: symmetric, non directional fabrics,symmetric, non directional fabrics,
considering only grain lineconsidering only grain line
B.B. nap-one-way:nap-one-way: asymmetrical and directional fabrics, allasymmetrical and directional fabrics, all
pattern pieces be placed on a marker in only onepattern pieces be placed on a marker in only one
directiondirection
C.C. nap-up-and-down:nap-up-and-down: some directional fabricssome directional fabrics
all the pattern pieces of one size to be placed in oneall the pattern pieces of one size to be placed in one
direction and another size placed in the opposite directiondirection and another size placed in the opposite direction
D.D. group:group: ‘end to end’ or ‘side to side’ shade variation,‘end to end’ or ‘side to side’ shade variation,
pattern pieces of a size of garments are laid together inpattern pieces of a size of garments are laid together in
accordance to the shade of the fabricaccordance to the shade of the fabric

17. Constraints of Marker making:Constraints of Marker making:
a.a. Grain LineGrain Line : Hang and drape of the: Hang and drape of the
garment is depending on the matching ofgarment is depending on the matching of
grain line. To maintain grain line is onegrain line. To maintain grain line is one
of the biggest constraints to achieveof the biggest constraints to achieve
higher marker efficiencyhigher marker efficiency
b.b. Characteristics of the fabric:Characteristics of the fabric: SpecialSpecial
attention required to set pattern piecesattention required to set pattern pieces
on the asymmetrical fabric, such as pileon the asymmetrical fabric, such as pile
fabric, special print etc.fabric, special print etc.
c.c. Design of the garments:Design of the garments: GarmentsGarments
from check or stripe fabric requiresfrom check or stripe fabric requires
mirror image (matching check or stripemirror image (matching check or stripe
in adjacent two parts of the garment)in adjacent two parts of the garment)

18. Constraints of Marker making:Constraints of Marker making:
d. Cutting Quality:d. Cutting Quality: Marker should beMarker should be
made carefully so that cuttingmade carefully so that cutting
blade can move easily in the layblade can move easily in the lay
e. Production Planning:e. Production Planning: productionproduction
planning is a constraint of markerplanning is a constraint of marker
making as numbers of pieces ofmaking as numbers of pieces of
different sizes are not exactlydifferent sizes are not exactly
proportionate.proportionate.

19. Fabric wastage outside markerFabric wastage outside marker
 Ends of ply losses:Ends of ply losses: For theFor the
extensibility of the fabric andextensibility of the fabric and
limitation of cutting machines, 2 cmlimitation of cutting machines, 2 cm
allowances is required in each end ofallowances is required in each end of
the each ply.the each ply.
 Loss of fabric ends:Loss of fabric ends: duringduring
preparation of the fabric lay, the lastpreparation of the fabric lay, the last
or end remains of the fabric roll areor end remains of the fabric roll are
separated by cutting.separated by cutting.

20. Fabric wastage outside markerFabric wastage outside marker
 Selvedge losses: Each fabric hasSelvedge losses: Each fabric has
two selvedges along width. Thetwo selvedges along width. The
amount of cut out is consideredamount of cut out is considered
3% (approximately) along width3% (approximately) along width
 Purchase loss: Less fabric mayPurchase loss: Less fabric may
wound on roll than identifiedwound on roll than identified
lengthlength

21. Methods of Drawing a MarkerMethods of Drawing a Marker
 1. Marking directly on the fabric1. Marking directly on the fabric
a.a. Drawing by Chalk orDrawing by Chalk or pencil:pencil:
mark directly onto the fabricmark directly onto the fabric
using pipe clay or waxusing pipe clay or wax
not allow copyingnot allow copying
least accurate methodleast accurate method
Not applicable method for pileNot applicable method for pile
or woolen fabricor woolen fabric

22. Methods of Drawing a MarkerMethods of Drawing a Marker
 B.B. Paint Spray:Paint Spray: fine jets of paintfine jets of paint
are sprayed over the patterns thatare sprayed over the patterns that
have been laid on the fabric, leavinghave been laid on the fabric, leaving
an outline of the patterns when theyan outline of the patterns when they
are removedare removed
More fabric is required to allow gaps for paint.More fabric is required to allow gaps for paint.
Paint can migrate under the pattern edgesPaint can migrate under the pattern edges
Pattern sizes grow as layers of paint build upPattern sizes grow as layers of paint build up
The machine must be cleaned every dayThe machine must be cleaned every day..

23. Methods of Drawing a MarkerMethods of Drawing a Marker
 2. Marking on the paper:2. Marking on the paper: pattern piecespattern pieces
are precisely arranged on to the markerare precisely arranged on to the marker
paper and draw the outline of the patternspaper and draw the outline of the patterns
by using pencil. This method is widelyby using pencil. This method is widely
used in the industry.used in the industry.
 3. Computerized Drawing:3. Computerized Drawing:
– Graded patterns in the computer are manipulated onGraded patterns in the computer are manipulated on
screen to produce a markerscreen to produce a marker
– the corresponding fabric width is shown on the screenthe corresponding fabric width is shown on the screen
and the range of the pattern pieces are shown on topand the range of the pattern pieces are shown on top

24. Methods of Drawing a MarkerMethods of Drawing a Marker
 3. Computerized Drawing:3. Computerized Drawing:
– These pieces can be rotated, reversed andThese pieces can be rotated, reversed and
moved into placemoved into place
– The computer can calculate marker efficiencyThe computer can calculate marker efficiency
– The completed marker is then drawn using aThe completed marker is then drawn using a
linked digital plotter.linked digital plotter.
– These systems are extremely quick andThese systems are extremely quick and
accurate and an unlimited quantity of markersaccurate and an unlimited quantity of markers
can be produced and/or reproducedcan be produced and/or reproduced

25. Methods of Drawing a MarkerMethods of Drawing a Marker
 4. Photographic System:4. Photographic System: patternspatterns
pieces are set onto a light sensitivepieces are set onto a light sensitive
paper passing through ultra-violetpaper passing through ultra-violet
light and revealed by using ammonialight and revealed by using ammonia
vapor. This method is quick andvapor. This method is quick and
cleanclean

26. Methods of Duplicating a Marker:Methods of Duplicating a Marker:
 a. Carbon duplicating:a. Carbon duplicating: CarbonCarbon
paper in between two marker paperpaper in between two marker paper
– Suitable to copy 3-4 piecesSuitable to copy 3-4 pieces
– This duplication method has fairly lowThis duplication method has fairly low
capital and material costscapital and material costs
– dirty , poor impression in the lowerdirty , poor impression in the lower
layerlayer
– Spreading and rolling of carbon paper isSpreading and rolling of carbon paper is
difficult, labour intensive processdifficult, labour intensive process

27. Methods of Duplicating a Marker:Methods of Duplicating a Marker:
 b. Spirit duplicating:b. Spirit duplicating: workingworking
procedure is same as Officeprocedure is same as Office
duplicating machine/Xerox machineduplicating machine/Xerox machine
– Only significant difference is that theOnly significant difference is that the
size of the machinesize of the machine
– Suitable for copying 40-50 piecesSuitable for copying 40-50 pieces
– Not suitable for higher marker widthNot suitable for higher marker width
– May produce defective copy if masterMay produce defective copy if master
copy set on the machine improperly.copy set on the machine improperly.

28. Methods of Duplicating a Marker:Methods of Duplicating a Marker:
 c. Photographic method:c. Photographic method: With theWith the
photographic method, the originalphotographic method, the original
marker is set onto a light sensitivemarker is set onto a light sensitive
paper using ultra-violet light andpaper using ultra-violet light and
revealed by using ammonia vapor.revealed by using ammonia vapor.
This method is quick and clean andThis method is quick and clean and
produces unlimited numbers ofproduces unlimited numbers of
duplicationsduplications

29. Methods of Duplicating a Marker:Methods of Duplicating a Marker:
 d. Perforated method:d. Perforated method: obsoleteobsolete
technique that involves punching a seriestechnique that involves punching a series
of perforation around the marker, placingof perforation around the marker, placing
it on the fabric and lightly dusting withit on the fabric and lightly dusting with
chalk. It can be used many timeschalk. It can be used many times
– dirty process and poor line definitiondirty process and poor line definition