The Organic Backyard

The Organic Backyard:

A guide to applying organic farming practices
to your home or community garden

This resource was created by Canadian Organic Growers Perth-Waterloo-Wellington
chapter, and is based on our workshops series, The Organic Backyard.
The content for this workbook comes from many sources, including Theresa
Schumilas, COG PWW’s former organic demonstration garden manager, and developer
of the original Organic Backyard workshop series.
Researchers and writers - Emily Hansen, Krista Long
Editor - Tegan Renner
COG PWW would like to extend a special thanks to the team of local organic farmers
who reviewed the content for this workbook, including Cathy Hansen of Bernway Farm
and Theresa Schumilas of Garden Party.
Cover illustration by Ellyn Lusis, Ellyn Lusis Illustration, www.ellynlusis.com
Inside illustrations by Emily Hansen
Graphic Design by Alpha 21, www.alpha21.ca

Funding for the writing and design of this workbook
provided by the Walmart – Evergreen Green Grants,
the Ontario Trillium Foundation and TD Friends of the
Environment Foundation.

© COG PWW, 2011. Second edition. All rights reserved.

2

The Organic Backyard: A guide to applying organic farming practices to your home or community garden

Contents
Background . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Purpose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Why Grow Organically? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Getting Started . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Get to Know Your Garden Site . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

The Organic Tool Shed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Seeds for the Organic Garden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

The Organic Garden Journal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Soil, Soil, Soil – The Foundation of the Organic Garden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Soil Life . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

The Soil Audit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Building Healthy Soils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Compost . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Cover Crops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

How Does Your Organic Garden Grow? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Managing Weeds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Feed Your Veggies, Not Your Weeds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Reduce the Weed Seed Bank Over Time . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Mulching Matters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Cultivate with Care and Purpose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Keeping Bugs and Disease at Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Monitoring and Observation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Reducing Opportunities for Pests and Disease . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Removing Pests Before They Spread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Preventing Pests from Accessing Plants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Crop Rotation: The Secret Organic Ingredient! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Growing the Organic Backyard Movement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Appendix A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

3

Background
From 2003 to 2009, Canadian Organic Growers, Perth-Waterloo-Wellington (COG PWW) ran Diversity Gardens,
an organic demonstration garden that provided hands-on support for growing fruit, vegetables, perennials and
herbs using organic techniques. Backyard growers, community gardeners and organic gardening enthusiasts
developed and enhanced their gardening knowledge and skills by attending the workshops we offered at
Diversity Gardens.
Over the years we have been asked to develop a companion
resource that captures the essence of organic agriculture on
a small scale for the backyard grower, so we are delighted
to offer The Organic Backyard: A guide to applying organic
farming practices to your home or community garden.

“To forget how to dig the

earth and to tend
the soil is to forget
ourselves.”

- Mohandas K. Gandhi

Purpose
In the spirit of our organic gardening workshops, The Organic Backyard will serve as an introductory guide for
applying the principles and techniques of organic farming on a small scale. The principles and techniques of
organic farming were developed by farmers for farmers over 20 years ago. These principles and techniques are
now captured in a set of standards - the Canada
TIP: For more details on
Organic Standards. In this guide we have
organic practices, permitted
taken the key elements of organic farming
substances, and the
principles and practices as contained in
the Canada Organic Standards and made
definitions and terminology in organic
them more user friendly for you, the small
agriculture, download a free copy of the
scale gardener.
Guidance Document to Understanding
Although coined The Organic Backyard, the
content is intended to reach all growers of food
on a small scale, either at home, in community
gardens, across urban backyards, at schools, or in
parks and reclaimed urban lands. By furthering gardeners’ ability to feed themselves organically, COG PWW
hopes to engage more of the community in building the local organic food system. We envision The Organic
Backyard spreading across our communities, turning every available space into one that produces good food
that nourishes our soils, us and our environment.
the Canada Organic Standards at
www.cogwaterloo.ca/Groworganic.php


5

Why Grow Organically?
The short answer is because you believe it is the best way to grow good food!
The long answer is because organic gardening is about growing food with an intimate understanding of the
soil in the area, the plants that are adapted to those soils and the region you live in, and the natural cycles that
maintain them. Organic gardening mimics natural cycles to produce food, and so creates a closer connection to
your land and the greater ecosystem of which it is a part.

But I Already Grow Organically, Don’t I?
You already garden pesticide-free, so aren’t you gardening organically? And really, the cosmetic use of
pesticides has been banned in Ontario, so isn’t everyone gardening organically in urban areas? You are not
alone in that thinking.
Organic growing is often narrowly defined by what we don’t use. While the elimination of synthetic fertilizers,
pesticides, and herbicides is important, care for the entire ecosystem and most notably the soil is the
basis of growing organically.

feed the soil and let the soil feed the plants.

Organic farmers say,
Once you embrace this philosophy and begin to work
on building the health of the soil in your garden, you
are truly gardening organically.

“Growing organically is more

rewarding – I learn more
about the crop itself and I have a

deeper respect for the soil”

6

– organic farmer


Notes from the Field: The Essence of the Organic Farming Principles
When asked to summarize organic production principles for backyard growers,
organic farmers told us that organic farming and gardening is about:

• nderstanding soil life.
U

• uilding soil health and productivity of the land for generations to come.
B

• rotecting the environment by decreasing water pollution, and increasing
P
biodiversity and pollinator habitat.

• educing greenhouse gas emissions by not using fossil-fuel based
R
fertilizers.

• rotecting seed identity by not using genetically modified (GM) seed.
P

• nowing the source of your garden inputs and how they affect the
K
environment, your land and your neighbour’s land.

• ecycling nutrients within your garden system through composting, crop
R
rotation and cover crops.

“Organic farming is a holistic production system

that relies on proven practices

focused on preventative strategies and soil health”

– modified from the Canada Organic Standards


7

Getting Started
Get to Know Your Garden Site
Many gardeners start with the plants – what they would like to
grow and eat. However, organic farming uses a holistic systems
approach that prioritizes understanding the site and soils, allowing
for the development of a farm plan that reflects this site-specific
knowledge.
As organic gardeners, step one is to have an accurate map
of your site. Your map tells you a lot of things and becomes
your record of what is happening in and around your garden each
year, including:

• urrounding land uses and how they might affect
s
your garden
• ow lying areas that are often wet and get an early frost
l
• first areas to dry in the spring
• shady and sunny areas
• reas with aggressive, perennial weeds
a

Why are these things important? Your map will help you choose
what to plant where. Choosing where to plant things based on their
needs is your best defense against pests and disease.

8

Notes from the Field –
Buffer Zones
Organic farmers are
typically required to
maintain a buffer zone
of 8 metres (or a permanent
hedgerow) around their
fields to protect against
harmful adjacent land
uses such as pesticides
and genetically modified
crops. Although urban
gardeners would not be
expected to maintain these
buffers, you would be wise
to consider surrounding
land uses, their potential
impacts and how you can
mitigate any negative ones,
using preventative and
holistic strategies.


Sample garden plan

9

Notes from the Field: Getting Started with a New Garden Site
If you are just getting started with a new garden site, the challenge before you is
to decide how you will modify the area from the original use to veggies while still
maintaining the soil life, since protecting and building the diversity of the soil
is the foundation of organic gardening. Here are a few examples of techniques
that worked for other organic gardeners. Get to know your site and its potential
challenges or benefits, and see what might work for you. Remember your last resort
is to remove the sod.
Backyard Organic Edible Garden
Initial site: sod, 20 x 5ft
Timeline: 2-4 weeks
Resources: newspaper, compost, mulch,
1 home gardener
I had a weed-free lawn with full fun
and a gentle slope. I wanted to grow a
forest garden with edible berries and
fruit trees, as well as a vegetable garden
patch. Knowing I wanted to replicate
a nutrient dense forest floor in a short
period of time, I chose to use a soil
layering technique known as lasagna
gardening, using newspapers, compost
and mulch. I started in early spring

before the grass started growing, and
layered the newspaper (ten layers thick),
making sure they overlapped well so
the grass could not creep through,
lightly moistened the paper, then
covered it with compost and mulch.
I waited approximately one month,
and then planted berry bushes, fruit
trees, pollinator-attracting perennials
and vegetables in each of the garden
areas. The newspaper and grass were
almost decomposed so it was easy to cut
through. The area was rich with worms
and soil organic matter at planting and
remains this way with compost, mulch
and rotations.

Lasagna gardening

10


Organic Market Garden
Initial Site: Sod 100ft x 50ft
Timeline: 1 month (potatoes or
winter squash)
Resources: mower, rototiller, broadfork,
rake, manure fork, 1 farmer, compost
I chose this method because it would
allow one person to quickly bring a
larger garden space into production
while still producing a good crop in
the first year. After the initial tillage,
there was minimal extra work over and
above the work normally associated with
growing potatoes. In mid- April when
the soil could be worked, the grass was
cut as short as possible before making
one or two slow passes with a rototiller
to disturb the roots of the sod and start
the decomposition process. About a
week later, I (with some help!) went
over the site with a broadfork to provide
deep uprooting of the sod. About a week
after the forking and when the sod was
dry enough, another normal pass with
the rototiller had the site ready for the
first potato planting.
Nutrient availability can be a concern
with this approach due to the amount
of organic matter that is decomposing.
To address this concern, you could add
compost to your rows at the time of
planting. Winter squash with buckwheat
or oil radish interplanted between

widely spaced rows is another option for
this type of garden space addition. As
the squash develop runners you can cut
the cover crop and leave it as a mulch
or incorporate it. Either strategy also
provides one more element of weed
control.
Community Garden Site
Initial site: Sod, 20ft x 40ft
Timeline: 7-10 days
Resources: rented sod cutter, shovels,
borrowed rototiller, ten yards
of partially composted manure,
5 volunteers
The garden site was chosen for its
prominent sunny location and potential
for expansion. In less than two hours
the sod was cut and removed to the
composting site. The garden was
then double dug and the manure was
broadcast over the site. The manure
could have been part of the double
dig if it had been available at the same
time as the double dig workers were
there. A neighbour lent a rototiller to
incorporate the manure and the site
was declared ready to plant. A month
after work began the garden boasted
seven healthy raised beds and visible
earthworm activity, indicating that
the compost application was effective
in maintaining, and even improving,
soil life.


11

The Organic Tool Shed
Organic farming is more labour intensive since it does not rely on chemical solutions for managing weeds, and
focuses on maintaining soil health by tilling as little as possible. So, the organic community has sourced a list
of tools, in addition to the basic gardening tools that you already have. See Resources section for availability
of tools.

Wheel hoe – A weeding tool with
various attachments. It can also be
used for digging furrows (such as
with potato hills).

Collineal hoe – A weeding tool
designed for fast, easy removal of
small, seedling-size weeds. The thin
blade with sharp edges cuts small
weeds just below the surface without
throwing soil onto small seedlings.
Its design allows for upright posture
which makes hoeing a pleasant task.

Flame weeder – The common flame
weeder consists of a torch, hose and
tank, which is sometimes mounted
on a backpack or cart. Flame weeding
involves heating weed seedlings
just enough to rupture the cell walls,
causing them to dry out. Works best
between beds, or just after seeding
to kill early weeds.

12


Broad fork – A tool used to manually break up soil in the spring and to improve aeration and drainage.
It consists of a row of solid steel tines, approximately eight inches long, spaced a few inches apart on a
horizontal bar, with two handles extending upwards to chest or shoulder level, forming a large U-shape. To
use, step up on the crossbar, using full bodyweight to drive the tines into the ground, then step backward
while pushing down on the handles, causing the tines to lever upwards through the soil. This action leaves
the soil layers intact, rather than inverting or mixing them, preserving the topsoil structure. It relies on
leverage to move the soil, saving your back from lifting heavy soil.

Row cover – A lightweight cover
used to protect against pests, cold,
frost, and winds. It is placed directly
over rows of crops on a supporting
framework—often, on wire hoops, to
form a low tunnel—and usually left
in place for several weeks until crops
are well-established or the pests
have disappeared. Floating row cover
can be placed directly over plants,
without a supporting framework,
being anchored to the ground by soil,
pegs or weights.


13

Seeds for the Organic Garden
Growing food starts with the seed. For your organic garden, seeds
and seedlings must be organic, when available. Organic seeds are
guaranteed not to be genetically modified or treated with fungicides.
See www.cogwaterloo.ca for a list of seed companies and local
organic farms that sell organic seeds and seedlings.

Seed Definitions
Here are a few definitions to help you source seeds for your
organic garden.
Heritage or Heirloom seeds – Seed varieties that have been
around for at least 75 years.
Open-pollinated seeds – Seeds that have been saved from
a vegetable that has been pollinated with other vegetables
of the same variety. Pollination occurs naturally and the
seeds produce vegetables with the same traits as the
parent vegetable.

Notes from the Field Seed Catalogues
Seed catalogues are chockfull of
information - use them for all
they are worth! You won’t find
details on growing specific crops
in this guide, so we suggest
using a seed catalogue as a free
resource for learning everything
you need to know about the
requirements of different
vegetables for your garden.

Cross-pollinated seeds – Cross-pollination occurs when two different varieties of a plant are grown in close
proximity to each other and pollination occurs by natural vectors (wind and insects). The following season the
seed taken from that plant will produce a vegetable that has aspects of both varieties.
Hybrid seeds – Seeds of mixed parentage that have been purposely developed by breeders and for which
breeders control the line. They are developed by mechanically pollinating one variety of a plant with pollen
from another variety of that plant, creating a new variety. Get to know the hybrids that are bred for better
productivity and disease resistance versus the ones that are bred for better shipability – an unnecessary trait
when growing food in your own backyard!
Genetically modified (GM) seeds – Unlike conventional breeding, which relies on the existing reproductive
systems of plants and animals, genetic modification takes genes from organisms such as bacteria and plants
and inserts them directly into the cells of other often unrelated species (Canadian Biotechnology Action
Network). The seed company that you choose should have a policy on GMOs clearly stated in their catalogue
or website. Remember, certified organic always means GMO-free.

14


Growing Organic Seedlings
In the organic garden, seedlings need organic potting soil. Potting soils and seed starting mixes, readily
available at garden centres and stores, often contain emulsifiers and wetting agents, which are chemical
substances like detergents that are sprayed on the potting soil to help it to absorb moisture more readily.
These soils are also typically sterile, which is far from beneficial in an organic garden that relies on living
organisms in the soil!
So, here is a recipe for making your own organic potting mix! 

The Organic Garden Journal
Observation is the key to successful organic gardening. It can
be a bit much to recall from memory all that you observed in
your garden in the past year, month, or even week, so keeping
a garden log or journal is a good idea. Organic farmers are
required to keep accurate records of all on-farm activities, from
soil inputs to seed sources and post-harvest handling. This
record keeping requirement is all part of their traceability and
certification to verify they are producing food for consumers in
accordance with the Canada Organic Standards.

ORGANIC POTTING MIX
5L fine textured organic compost
4L peat moss
4L organic garden soil
1.5L sand
2 TBSP lime
2 TBSP blood meal
1L perlite or vermiculite
Mix all the ingredients together in a large
tub or wheel barrow. Add water until moist
but not wet. Recipe will make enough
to fill three standard size planting flats.
See Resources section for availability of
ingredients.

For the organic gardener, you will be mostly concerned with keeping notes to learn
about your garden site and reach your organic gardening goals.
You will want to keep the following items in your garden journal:
• copy of your map each year
a
• otes of your seed sources and varieties, plus comments on which ones grew
n
well each year, and which ones you would like to try again
• our annual crop plan showing where you plant things each year, and how
y
well they did there
• he findings from your soil assessment over time
t
• our compost plan
y
• our weed and pest management strategies each year
y


15

Soil, Soil, Soil –
The Foundation of the
Organic Garden
Soil is the foundation of organic growing. As such, the next crucial step in organic gardening is getting to
know your soil so you can work to maintain it in a state of steady or increasing health, with future generations
in mind.

Soil Life
The biological component of soil often goes
unnoticed in the garden. It can be easy to forget
about what we don’t always see, but the importance
of millions of active organisms functioning beneath
our feet is something organic gardeners must strive
to understand and promote.
The dominant agricultural system has focused on the
chemical component of soil – nitrogen, phosphorus
and potassium (NPK) – so gardeners usually go with
the flow and think NPK needs to be added each
season. However, for an organic farmer, the focus is
much different. The organic focus is on building
and maintaining the biology of the soil – or the
soil life. It is the biological component of the soil
that aids plant growth and minimizes the pressure
from weeds, pests and disease.

The Life in Your Soil
Healthy organic soil is populated
by millions of organisms including
different types of bacteria, fungi, yeast
and earthworms. In just one teaspoon
of healthy soil live over one billion
bacteria and over 1.2 million other
micro-organisms. All this life aerates the
soil and breaks down organic matter,
improving the structure and overall
fertility of your soil.
- Richard Stehouwer, Department of Crop and
Soil Science, Penn State University’s College
of Agricultural Sciences, The Life in Your Soil:
An Introduction to Soil Microbiology.

“In our experience, when people think about organic growing,

they think about the challenges of not using

synthetic fertilizers and pesticides,

when it’s really about building and maintaining soil health.”

16

– organic vegetable farmer

The Soil Audit
Knowing your soil will allow you to build a healthy, productive garden. The following table summarizes a
number of do-it-yourself assessments and questions to help you in getting to know your soil. The key here
is observation. Keep track of your findings in your garden journal, and use this information to inform your
crop planning.
The soil you have to work with is not something that you can change in the short term but the techniques given
throughout this guide will help you to adapt and create the best growing conditions possible in your situation.
Table 1. Soil assessments
Property

Aspect to Assess How to Assess

Physical condition of soil

Composition

There are a couple ways to determine soil composition.
You can do the quick and dirty squeeze test:
• Moisten soil until it’s the consistency of putty.
• ompress a handful and try to squish it through your hand to form a ribbon. If it falls
C
apart before you can form a ribbon, your soil is at least 50% sand, which is more
than you want. Should it break apart before reaching two inches in length it is about
25% clay, a desirable composition. A large ribbon of two to three inches suggests at
least 40% clay.
Or you can do the jar test:
• ith a hand trowel or small spade dig down six to eight inches and remove a soil
W
core with a good profile (visible separation of soil layers).
• Put the soil sample in a one-litre jar and fill two-thirds with water.
• Add one teaspoon of water softener to help the soil layers separate.
• Shake the jar well and set it on a flat surface.
• fter five minutes, mark the top of the first visible layer (sand) on the jar. After two
A
hours mark the new layer (silt). After 24 more hours mark the top of the next line
(clay). The floating particles are organic matter.
• igure out the percentage of sand: silt: clay by comparing the width of the layers.
F
More than 25% clay or 45% sand will need a lot of organic care.
Jar test for soil composition 


17

Property

Aspect to Assess How to Assess

Physical condition of soil

Organic matter

What colour is the topsoil versus subsoil? Darker colour is ideal and indicative of higher
organic matter.

“Tilth” or compaction

A shovel should cut easily into soil with good tilth. The exposed soil should not be
compacted but should crumble easily in your hands.
How well are roots penetrating the soil? For instance, if your carrots are long and
straight this indicates good tilth; if they are short and twisted this indicates poor tilth.
Double digging or broad forking may be of immediate benefit here.

Erosion

Erosion occurs most commonly on sloping fields. Look for evidence of gullies cut
into the soil and exposed stones where topsoil has washed away. Cover crops and
permanent plantings may be in order in this case.

Smell

Should have a “sweet” and pleasant smell.

Drainage

Since drainage is not always uniform across a site, you should perform this test a
couple of times to get a full picture.
• hoose your test site (maybe the highpoint and then the low point to compare).
C
• ith a shovel dig a hole about 30 cm (1ft) deep by 30 cm (1ft) wide.
W
• ill it with water and keep track of how long it takes to completely drain. Clay soils
F
hold water, sandy soils drain quickly.
Results:




10-30 minutes to drain – soil is draining well.
than 10 minutes – soil likely has high sand content and will dry out and
Less
erode easily.
ater still in hole after three hours – high concentration of clay.
W
Poor drainage.

Drainage test 

Biology

18

Earthworm counts

Dig a 30cm (1ft) x 30 cm (1ft) hole and place the soil in a bucket. Sift or sort through the
soil to count the worms. Ten or more earthworms indicate very biologically active soil.


Building Healthy Soils
You now have a map of your site, and have assessed your soil. The next step is to determine what techniques
you may need to build organic matter and create a healthy productive garden.
It can be challenging in small garden plots to maintain soil structure and build organic matter without
overloading the soil with weed stimulating nutrients. Because vegetables return so little organic matter to the
land, and their root systems do not contribute significantly to building soil structure, vegetable gardeners
tend to favour adding manure (highly soluble nutrients) to the soil, which can lead to overfertilization of the garden plot.
The Canada Organic Standards outline specific practices that work instead on supporting soil life and
enhancing the health and structure of the soil. Compost and cover crops will be detailed below, but key
elements include:

• Use crop rotations
• Work the soil in a way that improves the soil life
• se organic matter (compost, mulch, cover crops) produced from the garden as your soil
U
amendments (inputs)
• Avoid over-fertilizing
• Only add manure if you are sure you need it, and then, only if you know the source to be organic

Compost
Compost is an organic garden hero. It helps to build soil structure and enhance soil fertility. Simply put,
compost is the decomposition of organic matter by organisms, in the presence of oxygen and water. When we
intentionally pile together brown (carbon) and green (nitrogen) materials in the correct ratio and add water and
oxygen (achieved by aeration and turning the pile) the result is a rich combination of organic matter and stable
plant nutrients that contribute significantly to the long term health of soils and plants.

Carbon (browns) + Nitrogen (greens) + oxygen + water + microorganisms + time = compost
Like any good recipe, there are a few basic ingredients and a classic method. Here we will outline the
framework and you can provide your own custom modifications. Remember the only wrong way to make
compost is not to make compost!
Compost 101
Coming up with a list of browns and greens for your compost is easy if you look around your own site first.
Using what you have before you look elsewhere for ingredients is the hallmark of a well-functioning organic
system. Consider these questions to help you judge your potential compost materials. Remember it will
eventually be part of your food.

• Is the material free of chemicals?
• Is the material free of disease?
• Will it breakdown in my compost system?


19

Carbon (Browns) - Look for dry yellow or brown plant matter like dry leaves, straw, newspaper (black and
white only) or saw dust or shavings from untreated wood. You will need twice as much brown material as
green material, but too many browns and your composting will be very slow because the bacteria will not get
enough nitrogen to grow.
Nitrogen (Greens) - You’ll want materials like fresh leaves, grass trimmings, manure, kitchen scraps including
egg shells (no other animal products), weeds
that have not gone to seed, pet litter (gerbils,
TIP: A Comfrey plant near the
bunnies, hamsters), and garden trimmings. Do
compost pile allows you to add the
not use weeds that may root like bindweed or
potassium-rich leaves (not roots)
Jerusalem artichoke tubers. Too many greens
to your pile to benefit flowering
and your compost will smell of ammonia.
and fruiting plants.
Oxygen - The micro-organisms that make
up your compost pile ecosystem need air
like nearly every living thing. Some coarse
material like small sticks and twigs will
help keep the pile from matting down and
becoming oxygen-starved. Turning the pile is
the best way to keep up the oxygen levels,
but compost aerators that bore into the
pile will achieve a similar, though not as
uniform, result in the short term. If the pile
gets hot you know you have good oxygen
levels. A couple of ski poles or broken hockey
sticks left in a commercial composter as the
material is being added will let you push and
pull on them to aerate the pile.
Ski poles as compost aerators 

Water - The compost-making micro-organisms also need moisture. Green material will naturally add moisture
to the pile. If too much moisture gets into the compost, it reduces the air flow resulting in a temperature drop
and unpleasant smelling compost. Too little moisture and it decomposes less efficiently and never gets up
to temperature. The composting process takes long enough as it is; you don’t need to add another year on
because you didn’t moisten your compost. If the pile feels like a sponge that has been wrung out, that is good.
Microorganisms - They are the vital last ingredient in compost. This crew will decompose your “browns”
and “greens” for their own benefit and leave you with a stable, mature compost. You can inoculate your pile
20


with a good supply of microbes by using sparing amounts of
your own garden soil. They will also come in on the nitrogen-rich
“greens” you add to the pile. The presence of these organisms
makes homemade compost a superior product to the bagged
purchased product.
TIP: In the community garden
context a simple rule of two parts
brown for every one part green
helps keep the composting system
and the community gardeners
happy. Keep a ready supply of
browns for the gardeners to use as
they will likely have lots of greens
to contribute.
Building and Maintaining Your Compost Pile
1. egin with a base layer of coarse materials like corn stalks,
B
wood prunings or raspberry canes to allow for drainage and
air circulation.
2. Once the base is laid begin to layer in the greens and browns.
3. ten inch layer of browns followed by a five inch layer of
A
green, a sprinkle of soil, a sprinkle of water…

The Poop on Manure
Manure differs from compost.
It has a lower carbon to
nitrogen ratio and having not
been through the composting
process, its nutrients are
in a very soluble form and
are at risk of leaching away
with winter and spring
precipitation.
Composted manure is always
best, but remember manure
is a green, so you will need to
add twice as many browns if
you add manure to your pile.
As always, the source matters
– an organic garden needs
manure from organic sources
– what goes in one end comes
out the other! See Appendix A
for carbon:nitrogen ratios of
various compost ingredients.

4. … and repeat.
5. ithin the first week your pile will begin to heap up and
W
shrink down.
6. f you are looking to create compost in less than one year,
I
turning will then be necessary and involves removing the
less composted top and sides and mix with inner more
decomposed material.
Covering the pile will help with controlling the moisture
content but with experience you will be able to manage the
moisture content even if the pile does not have a cover, by
adding more browns to a wet pile and more greens to a dry
pile. A cover may also serve to exclude critters but you can
also deter these pests by burying newly added delicious
material (like kitchen scraps) in the center of the pile.
Compost Pile Development 

21

TIP: A compost thermometer can be a very useful tool. A pile that
heats to over 130°F or 55°C for at least four days is a requirement
under the Canada Organic Standards. This temperature will kill off
weed seeds and proves you have good microbial activity in the pile.

Compost Tea
Compost tea is a liquid extract taken from stable, mature compost. Typically, the brewing process includes
oxygenating the tea to maximize the microbial communities and shorten the brewing time. Compost tea is
a readily available form of compost that will affect the plant more quickly than compost mixed with soil.
Compost teas can be applied either to the soil or to the plant foliage. When applied to the soil, the nutrients
from the compost become more readily available for the plants’ use, and more micro-organisms are added to
the soil, building soil health.
When the tea is applied to the plant foliage as a spray, it delivers beneficial micro-organisms and nutrients to
the plant surface to assist in disease suppression (like powdery mildew) and nutrient availability.
The quality of compost and water matters when brewing tea – good compost makes good tea, bad compost
makes bad tea. If using treated water with chlorine present, the chlorine should be off-gassed for at least one
hour first.
RECIPE FOR COMPOST TEA

• Put three litres of your best compost in a 20-litre bucket.
• dd enough water to bring it up almost to the top (leave enough space to stir vigorously without
A
spilling over).
• Add ¼ cup of unsulphured molasses to the mixture.
• Put in an aquarium bubbler (air stone).
• Each morning take out the bubblers and stir vigorously.
• On the third morning, strain the whole mixture by dumping it into a burlap bag or pillow case.
• Mix about one part compost tea to ten parts water.

Teas can also be made from horsetail, nettles or comfrey. Comfrey is more nutrient-rich than other plants
so it tends to be used more. Fill a five-gallon bucket half-way with chopped up leaves. Fill with rainwater
or chlorine-free water. Let stand for several days. If you have a bubbler, all the better, but not absolutely
necessary. Strain and use a one quart to five gallon (1:5) ratio to spray.
TIP: Manure has not been through a hot composting process, which
reaches temperatures sufficient to kill potential human pathogens,
so manure teas are a big no-no!

22


Cover Crops
Cover crops, also called green manure crops, are grown
specifically for the services they can provide for the soil – and
there are many! Incorporating green manure crops into your
garden helps to increase organic matter and nutrient content,
improve soil structure, and stimulate soil organisms to break down
organic matter. Different cover crops have varying characteristics
and benefits for the soil and your garden. Legumes are commonly
used as green manures for the nitrogen fixing properties they
possess. In organic agriculture these fixation characteristics
are used as an alternative to synthetic fertilizers used to boost
nitrogen availability in soil.
Table 2 lists the most common cover crops for your garden. The
type of cover crop you use will be dictated by your garden site and
your crop plan. Cover crops should be worked into a good garden
rotation, but at the very least, cover crops should be used to
cover your garden over the winter. In the spring you can mow
or work in the cover crops to give your garden the boost it needs in
the spring! But be sure to incorporate the cover crops into the soil
2-3 weeks prior to when your want to plant (particularly for small
seeds). The process of breaking down a cover crop will temporarily
tie up available nutrients slowing initial crop growth.

A Little Known Fact About
Beneficial Rhizobia
The production of nitrogen
fertilizer requires natural
gas as an ingredient, and
a temperature of 1000°C
and a pressure of 1000
atmospheres – in other
words, a lot of fossil fuel
energy. Rhizobia bacteria on
the roots of legume plants
(e.g. peas, beans, and clovers)
use enzymes in the form of
carbohydrates from their host
plants to produce nitrogen,
with very little energy.
- paraphrased from Ralph Martin,
Organic Agriculture Centre
of Canada

Table 2. Cover crops and their characteristics
Legume
(Y/N)

When to
plant

Seeding rate
(lb/100sq. ft)

When to turn
under

Winter killed Soil building qualities
(Y/N)

Barley

N

fall/spring

1/8 lb

spring/fall

Y

Adds organic matter and improves soil
aggregation.

Buckwheat

N

spring/
summer
(May-July)

1/4 lb

before seeds
form!

Y

Stabilizes soil, adds organic matter and
phosphorous. Attracts pollinators. Fast growing.

Chickling
vetch

Y

early spring/
summer

1/4 lb

fall

Y

Can be grown as a green manure between crops
for nitrogen-fixing properties.

Oats

N

spring to
early fall

1/3 lb

as needed

Y

Use as a winter cover crop or green manure. Adds
organic matter and improves soil structure.

Oil radish

N

spring/fall

1/5 lb

fall/spring

Y

Tap root breaks up compacted soil and draws
nutrient from sub soil. Decomposing matter
protects against soil-borne pests.

Clovers

Y

spring,
summer or
fall

1/5 lb

fall/spring

N

Can be grown as a green manure or in cocropping situations. Also out-competes weeds
and fixes nitrogen. Attracts pollinators.

Rye

N

summer/fall

1/4 lb

spring

N

Good winter cover; will continue growing well
past frost and begin growing again in the spring.
Incorporate at least three weeks prior to planting
in the spring to breakdown alleopathic chemicals
in rye.


23

How Does Your Organic
Garden Grow?
With holistic and preventative measures of course! You have already begun by getting to know your site and
soil, understanding and building soil health, selecting organic seeds and seedlings, and preparing your garden
with care. Now comes the fun part of organic gardening – incorporating organic techniques to keep weeds,
pests and disease at bay.

Managing Weeds
Weeds are an unavoidable reality in any garden! However,
how you manage them is the key. Organic gardening focuses
on preventative weed management and reducing the
weed pressure.
The following practices can be used in the organic backyard
to reduce the weed pressure:

Feed Your Veggies, Not the Weeds
Avoid broadcast spreading of compost before planting. Doing
so makes nutrients available to fast growing weeds. Instead,
apply compost near the rows where it is more likely to be
captured by the crop.

Reduce the Weed Seed Bank Over Time

Some Tips for Better
Understanding Weeds
• eed populations tend to
W
decline as soil health builds.
• bserving and learning
O
about weed ecology and the
influence of various crops
on weed communities will
help you refine your weed
management practice over
time.
• eep good notes about the
K
weeds and weed pressures in
your garden from year to year.
• andelions are a sign of
D
acidic or compacted soil. Red
root pigweed indicates excess
nitrogen and bindweed is
an indication of low organic
matter often in sandy soils.

To prevent the addition of even more weeds in your
garden next year, make sure that this year’s weed
crop does not go to seed. Solarizing your soil can
help get rid of a large accumulation of weed seeds
that have built up over time. Black plastic mulch laid
down over the soil and left to draw the heat from the sun will cook weed seeds close to the surface.
It can also negatively impact soil organisms in the top two inches of soil, but these rapidly bounce back
once the plastic is removed. Uncomposted manure can be full of weed seeds, so try to always use
composted manure! A temperature of 130°F or approximately 55°C is required to kill weed seeds.
24


Mulching Matters
Mulch is important in the organic garden to control weeds. It
a) blocks sunlight that helps weeds germinate
b) retains moisture
c) moderates soil temperature
d) adds organic matter
There are many different materials that can be used as mulch. Table 3 provides some ideas and guidance on
what materials to use.
Table 3. Different mulches and their uses
Mulch type

Where to use

Comments

Compost

Around perennials and shrubs, and in the
vegetable garden

One inch of well broken down compost will supply nutrients, add
organic matter and hold moisture.

Mushroom
compost

Best applied every two to three years to
annual and perennial beds to maintain soil pH
(mushroom compost is alkaline - works like
lime to “sweeten” acidic soils)

Be cautious of the source and quantity when using mushroom compost.
It is often manure-based and has a high salt concentration and could
contain unwanted substances. Your best bet would be to obtain such
compost from an organic mushroom operation. You need only a small
amount (no more than one inch coverage) to achieve soil amendment
properties.

Shredded bark

Around trees and shrubs, perennials (not ideal
for vegetable gardens)

Bark mulch is not fully composted and robs your soil of nutrients as it
continues to break down. Also adding too much wood material to your
vegetable garden can result in poor structure and texture.

Straw or hay

Best used in the vegetable garden and on
pathways

Used as a mulch straw helps keep your garden clean and neat, while
suppressing soil-borne diseases by preventing soil splashing on leaves.
Can also be used to cover root vegetables to delay the ground freezing
to allow you to harvest in the winter months. Beware of weed seeds.

Grass clippings

Used in the vegetable garden between rows
and on paths

Once broken down they are a good source of nutrients. Ontario’s ban on
the use of domestic pesticides means grass clippings are safe, though
they are really best left on the lawn.

Newspaper
(not glossy)

Used in the vegetable garden between rows
and on paths

A thick layer will smother annual weeds and break down in one season.
See Lasagna gardening, page 10.

Shredded leaves

Excellent around perennials, trees, shrubs and
vegetables

Leaves could be chopped or partially broken down before being applied
to prevent a mat from forming. Any type of leaves can be used but a
mixture is usually best. Beware of Black Walnut however. These leaves
contain traces of a plant toxin called juglone that negatively affects
some plants, particularly the tomato family. Ensure these leaves are
composted before use in the garden.

Cultivate with Care and Purpose
Organic growing utilizes tilling only when and where needed, most often for planting and weed
management purposes. At a small scale, cultivating with a hoe or other hand tools is the best way to stay on
top of weeds. The key here is shallow frequent cultivation so as to not turn up too many more weed seeds
from deeper down in the soil.


25

• tale seed bed techniques are ways of “surprising” tiny, newly germinated weeds. After
S
preparing a bed and before planting, wait a few days and lightly hoe or rake to remove weeds that
have come up. Alternatively, a black plastic cover (left on for a couple of sunny days) can be used
to kill very small weeds without disturbing the soil. The heat will penetrate the top two inches of
soil and can disrupt some soil organisms in the process but they quickly recover when the cover is
removed. Flame weeding could also be used as a “stale bed” technique. Unlike mechanical weeding,
flame weeding doesn’t bring new weed seeds to the surface. To save time and fuel, only the rows
are flamed, leaving the space between the rows for mechanical weeding.

• lind cultivation is especially useful for direct-seeded crops that are slow to germinate, such as
B
carrots, parsnips, and green onions. A few days after planting, a very shallow cultivation is done
(with care for the seeds below) using the back of a rake or other shallow tool as soon as the first
tiny weeds emerge. Flame weeding is especially useful for blind cultivation. Weed seeds germinate
first, so flaming is done after the weeds have emerged, but before the crop has sprouted, killing the
weeds and sparing the crop. Cultivating early and often is the easiest way to control weeds. Wheel
hoes are a pleasure to use – they can get very close to the crop when it is small without moving
much soil into the row.

Notes from the Field - To Till or Not to Till
Soil cultivation, or tillage, is a common farming practice that is both praised for its
seed-bed preparation and weed management capabilities, and frowned upon for its
soil damaging potential. It is important to recognize that tillage has both positive
and negative effects. All sides are considered in the table below.
Table 4. Positive and negative effects of tillage
Positive Effects of Careful Tillage

Negative Effects of Over-Tillage

Breaks up compacted soil and allows for better air and water
exchange and better root penetration

Increases the rate of organic matter break down which leads to
degradation of soil properties such as reduced soil life, poor water
infiltration and drainage and reduced gas exchange

Maintains soil structure by mixing organic matter and
soil minerals and encouraging the formation of new soil
aggregates

Reduces soil biological activity, which in turn reduces the release of
plant nutrients and therefore poor crop growth

Incorporates oxygen, stimulating biological activity, which in
turn speeds up mineralization and the release of plant-based
nutrients

Reduces water and nutrient holding capacity because of rapid
organic matter breakdown

Increases soil temperature in the spring which creates an
encouraging environment for soil micro-organisms

Weakens soil aggregates, leaving soil more susceptible to surface
crusting and erosion from wind and water

Incorporates organic matter into the soil and manages crop
residue, which avoids losing carbon or volatile nitrogen
compounds through surface decomposition

Destroys earthworm habitat and numbers

Creates a supportive seedbed, especially for fine seeded crops
Adapted from: Singh, A. “Soil: fertility or fluffy.” The Canadian Organic Grower, Spring, 2009.

26


Keeping Bugs and Disease at Bay
Pest and disease control in organic gardening is based on
understanding the relationships between the food crops
you are growing and the natural pests and predators that
harm them and decrease productivity. Like weed control,
pest management in The Organic Backyard is based on
preventative practices, rather than inputs. Only when the
organic management practices alone cannot prevent or
control crop pests or disease may a plant-derived botanical
or biological substance be applied.
A crop pest and disease management plan for organic
production emphasizes maximizing plant vigor, monitoring
and observation, reducing opportunities for pests and
disease, removing pests before they spread, and preventing
pests from accessing plants.

The Permitted Substances List
Part of the Canada Organic
Standards contains a list of
permitted substances that organic
farmers can use only when all
other practices cannot prevent
or control a crop pest or disease.
Organic gardeners will want to
become familiar with this list as
well. The list can be downloaded
from www.cogwaterloo.ca.

Monitoring and Observation
The first step in dealing with pests organically is to get to know them and understand their place in the
ecosystem. Not all insects are your enemy, which you will soon find if you take some time to walk about your
garden monitoring insect activity. Which insects are on which plants? Which ones do you see eating other
insects? Which insects aren’t around that may be beneficial? You can learn a lot through observation with a
good garden insect book on hand, but taking advantage of any pest management workshops in your area or
any opportunity to share strategies with other gardeners is worthwhile.

Reducing Opportunities for Pests and Disease
Reduce Pest and Disease Habitat
Pests and disease can overwinter in the garden, waiting for optimal spring garden conditions to appear.
By composting or tilling in any remaining plant materials after harvest, you reduce sources for overwintering
habitat. The exceptions include plant materials affected by early blight and squash bugs - these should be kept
out of the compost pile. Winter cover crops will not harbour pests or diseases, but will contribute to soil health
and should therefore be a part of your pest reduction strategy.
Increase Habitat for Beneficial Organisms
Not all bugs are bad. Get to know who the good ones are and welcome them to your garden by:

• lanting insectory gardens (be sure to include a water source) with members of the carrot and
P
sunflower families.


27

• lanting cover crops in your rotations that attract beneficial insects, such as buckwheat, sweet
P
clover, fava beans, vetch, red clover, white clover, mustards, and cowpeas.
• ntercropping plants that attract beneficial organisms, such as species
I
in the carrot (Apiaceae, Umbelliferae), sunflower (Asteraceae,
Compositae), and mint (Lamiaceae) families. Even leaving some
lambsquarters (Chenopodium berlandieri) in the rows as an alternate
host for aphids can work.
• ounting bird houses and bat boxes near your garden.
M

Modify Plant Selections and Planting Practices

• ead the seed catalogues carefully and find cultivars that are resistant to common diseases.
R
• ry timing plantings to avoid peak pest pressure. For instance, plant potatoes after mid-June.
T
• atch over-fertilization, as aphids love sappy, tender new growth.
W

Employ Companion Planting Approaches
There are many theories about companion planting. Since the garden is a living ecosystem, our best advice is
to try some out, see what works and take good notes! There are two ways to think about companion plants.
The most common being interplanting a crop that repel pests from another crop, such as onions to repel carrot
rust fly. The other is using plants that act as decoys or traps to lure pests away from your crops, such as using
mustard greens to trap flea beetles and keep them away from kale or broccoli.
Maintain Plant Health to Resist Pests
Just as healthy soils mean fewer weeds, healthy plants mean greater resistance to pests and disease.
Stressed plants accumulate free nitrogen in their tissues, a protein source that attracts insects and causes
their populations to explode.

• ater as needed during dry periods to reduce plant stress.
W
• educe overhead watering to reduce disease risk.
R
• on’t harvest when leaves are wet to avoid spreading disease.
D
• emove and destroy any diseased plants.
R
• isinfect pruners before use (dipping in 40% rubbing alcohol works well) on susceptible plants like
D
tomatoes to protect against bacterial and viral diseases.

Removing Pests Before They Spread
Sometimes the best way to combat pests in the garden is to beat them off with a broom – okay, maybe not
that severe, but hand-picking (and even vacuuming) the first pests before they can reproduce can work well on
potato beetles (and their egg clusters), cabbage worms, squash bugs and tomato hornworms. Spraying hard
with water is one way to dislodge aphids. Knowing what pests’ larva and eggs look like is a good strategy,
allowing you to get a handle on the problem before it is too great.
28


Preventing Pests from
Accessing Plants
Row cover is a light weight material used to
keep caterpillars, moths, beetles and flies
away from vulnerable plants, such as squash,
pumpkins, cucumbers and gourds, as they grow
to maturity. Row cover is generally applied as
soon as transplants are in the ground and they
can remain covered until the plant blossoms
and requires fertilization. At this point the plant
can sustain a bit more pest pressure, yet the
pressure is greatly reduced. Crucifers (see Table
5, Crop famlilies) also do well under cover. They
are protected from flea beetles in the early
stages and avoid infestation of cabbage worms
by preventing the European Cabbage moth from
laying eggs in their heads. They do not flower
therefore the cover can stay on until harvest.
See Resources section for row cover availability.

Notes from the Field – Making Your
Own Pest Management Products
Bugs can happen even with the best
preventative measures. Homemade
sprays can be beneficial before resorting
to allowable organic pest management
products. After all, organic principles state
to use what is on your site first!
All-Purpose Homemade Pest Spray
Garlic contains allilcin which confounds
insects; hot peppers contain capsaicin
which gives anything a chemical burn;
onions contain sulfur, which helps to
suppress fungal disease; and many pests
avoid tomatoes. The result? A truly allpurpose spray!
Chop: 2 lbs ripe tomatoes, 1 lg onion, 1 lb
chili peppers, 2 cloves garlic. Blend. Add
1 cup vinegar and ½ tsp pepper. Strain.
Spray.
Rhubarb Spray
Rhubarb spray can be used to help control
fungal disease and aphids.
Cut rhubarb leaves (6 leaves). Boil in 3
quarts of water. Steep for an hour. Strain.
Spray.


29

Crop Rotation: The Secret
Organic Ingredient!
Just as building soil health is the foundation of organic gardening, crop rotation is the practice that brings the
whole organic garden plan together.
Crop rotation is used in organic farming to:

a) Break the cycle of soil-borne diseases and pests from year to year
b) Balance soil fertility
c) Reduce the weed pressure

Breaking the Cycle of Soil-Borne Diseases and Pests
In a small space crop rotation can be as simple as not planting like crops (those in the same family) in the
same place in consecutive years. Table 5 below groups common vegetable crops in their respective families.
Table 5. Crop families
Compositae

Amaryillidaceae

Cruciferae

Chenopodiaceae

Gramineae

Artichoke
Dandelion
Endive
Lettuce
Radicchio

Garlic
Leek
Onion

Arugula
Broccoli
Cabbage
Kale
Radish
Rutabaga

Beet
Spinach
Swiss Chard

Corn

Leguminosae

Solanaceae

Cucurbitaceae

Umbelliferae

Bean
Peas

Eggplant
Pepper
Potato
Tomato

Cucumber
Melon
Pumpkin
Squash
Zucchini

Carrot
Celery
Parsley
Parsnip

Balancing Soil Fertility
As your garden increases in size you may be able to employ a more complex crop rotation system,
which involves identifying heavy and light feeders (plants that require more or less nutrients in the soil).
The following chart explains a simple four-year rotation moving from heavy feeders that require a significant
amount of nutrient inputs and organic matter to light feeders that do best with lower nutrient availability.
30


If you are having trouble with productivity (e.g., carrots with lush green tops but underdeveloped root), then
re-adjusting your rotation to reflect this kind of a system could help. By following the examples in the chart you
can ensure that heavy feeders like garlic, potatoes, tomatoes and squash use up a significant portion of the
available nutrients so light feeders like carrots, parsley and radishes are not overfed in the following year.
Table 6. Sample four-year rotation
Heaviest Feeders

Heavy Feeders

Light Feeders

Lightest Feeders / Nitrogen Fixers

Brussel Sprouts
Cabbage
Corn
Cucumbers
Potatoes
Tomatoes
Squash
Garlic

Beets
Broccoli
Cauliflower
Celery
Kale
Leeks
Lettuce
Spinach
Turnip

Carrots
Onions
Parsley
Parsnips
Radish

Peas
Beans
Other legumes

Reducing the Weed Pressure With Rotation
Giving consideration to the growth habits and tillage requirements of what you plant can create some good
crop rotation strategies. Some seeds are naturally slow to germinate (e.g., carrots or parsley), which leaves
that area vulnerable to faster germinating weeds while others have a leafy canopy (e.g., beans or zucchini) or
cover the ground (e.g., squash or cucumbers) to create weed competition. Here are a couple examples of how
to plan your rotation based on different tillage requirements:

• lant a crop that is direct seeded and requires tilling in year one,
P
such as lettuce or beets, and then in year two plant a transplanted
crop with no-tilling. Just do a light hoeing to remove surface
weeds and plant the transplants then mulch between the plants to
exclude later potential weeds.
• f there is an area of perennial grasses in the garden like twitch
I
grass consider growing potatoes. The hoeing, hilling and digging
needed to grow potatoes will keep the top off the grass and starve
the roots of the grasses. You may be able to eliminate some
perennial grasses in one season.

Co-cropping is another strategy that can aid in weed suppression. It is a
practice of planting different types of plants in close proximity to create
diversity throughout your garden and increase the competition for weeds.


31

For example, head lettuce could be planted under
trellised peas, beans or cucumbers to shade the soil
and suppress weeds while making efficient use of
available space. How about trying this with grapes!

You could consider using the traditional Three
Sisters Garden. Squash leaves spread over the
ground to suppress weeds around pole beans,
and the beans are supported by the corn stalks.
In addition the beans are fixing much needed
nitrogen in the soil, replacing the nitrogen used by
the heavy feeding corn and squash.

The co-cropping concept can also be employed using
a cover crop between food plants to stabilize soil
and suppress weeds. A cover crop is seeded when
transplants are first put in the ground. This works
in situations with a significant amount of space
between the rows. You would broadcast seeds of a
fast growing cover crop like buckwheat or oats (or
a mixture of the two, known as “cocktail cropping”)
between your transplants and rake it in. Both are
recommended as cover crops as they germinate
quickly. In addition, buckwheat leaves cover the
ground to smother germinating weed seeds and the
flowers attract beneficial insects and pollinators.
Once the transplants become big enough and
BEFORE buckwheat goes to seed, you mow or clip it
and leave the clippings as mulch.
32


Growing the Organic
Backyard Movement
Growing your own food is an educational, fun and empowering
experience. Your homegrown harvest provides you with the purest form
of local food possible, the knowledge that you are reducing your food
miles, plus a chance to build community around fresh, wholesome food.
Using organic principles and techniques to grow your food means that
you can have an even greater impact on your health and the health of
your environment. The Organic Backyard demonstrates how the holistic
and preventative principles and practices of organic agriculture can
be adopted from the formalized standards and farm operations they
originate from and applied on the home or community garden scale.
Organic growing’s emphasis on soil health presents the opportunity to produce food more naturally,
allowing you to move away from a food system that relies heavily on fossil fuels to produce fertilizers and
pesticides towards one that integrates food production with environmental stewardship, and considers
future generations.

Join us in growing organically in your home, school or community garden.
Together we can build a local organic food system!


33

Resources
Seeds

Equipment

Compost

Canadian Organic Growers
Perth-Waterloo-Wellington
Lists Ontario organic seed sources
and has a downloadable version
of this guide
www.cogwaterloo.ca/
growOrganic.php

Dubois Agrinovation
(Waterford, Ontario)
Row cover, irrigation and
composters
www.duboisag.com
1-800-815-9929

Cathy’s Crawly Composters
Vermicomposters and worms
www.cathyscomposters.com
1-888-775-9495 or 905-775-9495

High Mowing Organic Seeds
(Vermont)
Organic seeds
www.highmowingseeds.com
802-472-6174
Johnny’s Selected Seeds
(Maine)
Organic seeds and garden
planning tool
www.johnnyseeds.com
1-877-564-6697
Veseys Seeds (PEI)
Organic seeds and tools
www.veseys.com
William Dam Seeds
(Dundas, Ontario)
Organic seeds, seed starting
supplies, and row cover
www.damseeds.com
905-628-6641
34

Earthway
Garden seeders and wheel hoes
www.earthway.com
Lee Valley Tools
An assortment of small garden
tools
www.leevalley.com
905-319-9110 (Burlington location)
Orchard Hill Farm
(St. Thomas, Ontario)
Ken and Martha Laing
High-Kentucky-style wheel hoes
with stirrup hoe attachment made
on the farm
www.orchardhillfarm.ca
519-775-2670

Compost Council of Canada
Some additional pointers on
composting, including some
troubleshooting
www.compost.org

Garden
Planning Tools
Johnny’s Selected Seeds
(Maine)
Organic seeds and garden
planning tool
www.johnnyseeds.com
1-877-564-6697
Mother Earth News
Garden planning tool that
provides bed design and planting
guidance based on whatever
you’re growing
www.motherearthnews.com/
garden-planner


Appendix A
Carbon:Nitrogen Ratios of Various Compost Ingredients
Material

C:N

hay, legume

16:1

hay, grass

32:1

straw, oat

60:1

straw, wheat

125:1

cattle manure

19:1

chicken manure

6:1

horse manure

30:1

softwood shavings

640:1

grass clippings

17:1

leaves

54:1

food waste

15:1 (highly variable)

Source: ATTRA On-Farm Composting Handbook, pg 54


35

Supporting farmers and consumers in building a local organic food system
www.cogwaterloo.ca

COG PWW
5420 Hwy 6 North, RR5
Guelph, ON N1H 6J2
Phone: 226-251-3012
Email: office@cogwaterloo.ca

100% total
recycled fiber

The Organic Backyard

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