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BODY MEASUREMENT TECHNIQUES: A COMPARISON OF
     THREE-DIMENSIONAL BODY SCANNING AND
      PHYSICAL ANTHROPOMETRIC METHODS




                           By

                 Karla Peavy Simmons




        Submitted to the TTM Graduate Faculty
                    College of Textiles
            North Carolina State University
       in partial fulfillment of the A1 requirement
                   for the Ph.D. degree
        in Textile Technology and Management




                Raleigh, North Carolina
                  January 12, 2001
Table of Contents



                                                                Page #

LIST OF TABLES                                                   vi

LIST OF FIGURES                                                 viii

1.     INTRODUCTION                                               1

2.     THREE-DIMENSIONAL BODY SCANNING TECHNOLOGY                2
       2.1 Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation/ImageTwin     4
           2.1.1      History                                    4
           2.1.2      ImageTwin systems                          5
           2.1.3      System design                              6
       2.2 Cyberware                                             9
           2.2.1      History                                    9
           2.2.2      Cyberware systems                          9
           2.2.3      Cyberware system design                   11
       2.3 SYMCAD                                               13
           2.3.1      History                                   13
           2.3.2      SYMCAD system models                      13
           2.3.3      SYMCAD system design                      14

3.     TRADITIONAL ANTHROPOMETRY                                14
       3.1  Historical Practice                                 14
       3.2  Methodology and Instrumentation                     16
            3.2.1      Methodology                              16
            3.2.2      Instrumentation                          17
       3.3  Landmarks                                           20

4.     COMPARISON OF THE TRADITIONAL ANTHROPOMETRICAL           27
       METHOD WITH THREE-DIMENSIONAL BODY SCANNING
       METHODS
       4.1 Neck-Midneck                                         29
           4.1.1    Traditional measurement method              29
           4.1.2    ImageTwin method                            29
           4.1.3    Cyberware method                            29
           4.1.4    SYMCAD method                               29
           4.1.5   Discussion                                   29
       4.2 Neck-Neckbase                                        30
           4.2.1    Traditional measurement method              30
           4.2.2    ImageTwin method                            30
           4.2.3    Cyberware method                            30
Karla P. Simmons                    ii                         A-1 Paper
Page #
              4.2.4     SYMCAD method                      30
              4.2.5     Discussion                         30
       4.3    Chest Circumference                          31
              4.3.1     Traditional measurement method     31
              4.3.2     ImageTwin method                   31
              4.3.3     Cyberware method                   31
              4.3.4     SYMCAD method                      31
              4.3.5     Discussion                         31
       4.4    Bust Circumference                           32
              4.4.1     Traditional measurement method     32
              4.4.2     ImageTwin method                   32
              4.4.3     Cyberware method                   32
              4.4.4     SYMCAD method                      32
              4.4.5     Discussion                         32
       4.5    Waist-Natural Indentation                    33
              4.5.1     Traditional measurement method     33
              4.5.2     ImageTwin method                   33
              4.5.3     Cyberware method                   34
              4.5.4     SYMCAD method                      34
              4.5.5     Discussion                         34
       4.6    Waist-Navel (Omphalion)                      34
              4.6.1     Traditional measurement method     34
              4.6.2     ImageTwin method                   34
              4.6.3     Cyberware method                   34
              4.6.4     SYMCAD method                      35
              4.6.5     Discussion                         35
       4.7    Hip Circumference                            35
              4.7.1     Traditional measurement method     36
              4.7.2     ImageTwin method                   36
              4.7.3     Cyberware method                   36
              4.7.4     SYMCAD method                      36
       4.8    Seat                                         36
              4.8.1     Traditional measurement method     36
              4.8.2     ImageTwin method                   36
              4.8.3     Cyberware method                   37
              4.8.4     SYMCAD method                      37
              4.8.5     Discussion                         37
       4.9    Sleeve Length                                37
              4.9.1     Traditional measurement method     38
              4.9.2     ImageTwin method                   38
              4.9.3     Cyberware method                   38
              4.9.4     SYMCAD method                      38
              4.9.5     Discussion                         38



Karla P. Simmons                      iii                 A-1 Paper
Page #
       4.10   Arm Length                                   38
              4.10.1   Traditional measurement method      38
              4.10.2   ImageTwin method                    39
              4.10.3   Cyberware method                    39
              4.10.4   SYMCAD method                       39
              4.10.5   Discussion                          39
       4.11   Inseam                                       40
              4.11.1   Traditional measurement method      40
              4.11.2   ImageTwin method                    40
              4.11.3   Cyberware method                    40
              4.11.4   SYMCAD method                       40
              4.11.5   Discussion                          40
       4.12   Outseam                                      41
              4.12.1   Traditional measurement method      41
              4.12.2   ImageTwin method                    41
              4.12.3   Cyberware method                    41
              4.12.4   SYMCAD method                       42
              4.12.5   Discussion                          42
       4.13   Shoulder Length                              42
              4.13.1   Traditional measurement method      42
              4.13.2   ImageTwin method                    42
              4.13.3   Cyberware method                    42
              4.13.4   SYMCAD method                       42
              4.13.5   Discussion                          42
       4.14   Across Chest                                 43
              4.14.1   Traditional measurement method      43
              4.14.2   ImageTwin method                    43
              4.14.3   Cyberware method                    43
              4.14.4   SYMCAD method                       43
              4.14.5   Discussion                          43
       4.15   Across Back                                  44
              4.15.1   Traditional measurement method      44
              4.15.2   ImageTwin method                    44
              4.15.3   Cyberware method                    44
              4.15.4   SYMCAD method                       44
              4.15.5   Discussion                          44
       4.16   Back of Neck to Waist Length                 45
              4.16.1   Traditional measurement method      45
              4.16.2   ImageTwin method                    45
              4.16.3   Cyberware method                    45
              4.16.4   SYMCAD method                       45
              4.16.5   Discussion                          45




Karla P. Simmons                     iv                   A-1 Paper
Page #
       4.17   Rise                                                       46
              4.17.1    Traditional measurement method                   46
              4.17.2    ImageTwin method                                 46
              4.17.3    Cyberware method                                 46
              4.17.4    SYMCAD method                                    46
              4.17.5    Discussion                                       46
       4.18   Crotch Length                                              46
              4.18.1    Traditional measurement method                   47
              4.18.2    ImageTwin method                                 47
              4.18.3    Cyberware method                                 47
              4.18.4    SYMCAD method                                    47
              4.18.5    Discussion                                       47
       4.19   Thigh Circumference                                        47
              4.19.1    Traditional measurement method                   48
              4.19.2    Traditional measurement method for mid-thigh
                        circumference                                   48
              4.19.3    ImageTwin method                                48
              4.19.4    Cyberware method                                48
              4.19.5    SYMCAD method                                   48
              4.19.6    Discussion                                      48
       4.20   Bicep Circumference                                       49
              4.20.1    Traditional measurement method                  49
              4.20.2    ImageTwin method                                49
              4.20.3    Cyberware method                                49
              4.20.4    SYMCAD method                                   49
              4.20.5    Discussion                                      50
       4.21   Wrist Circumference                                       50
              4.21.1    Traditional measurement method                  50
              4.21.2    ImageTwin method                                50
              4.21.3    Cyberware method                                50
              4.21.4    SYMCAD method                                   50
              4.21.5    Discussion                                      50

5.     CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS                                  51
       5.1 Conclusions                                                  51
       5.2 Recommendations                                              54

6.     REFERENCES                                                       55

7.     APPENDIX                                                         63
       7.1 Appendix A
       7.2 Appendix B




Karla P. Simmons                       v                               A-1 Paper
List of Tables


                                                                           Page #
1.     Current major scanning systems                                       4

2.     Comparison of ImageTwin     scanner models: 2T4 and 2T4s              6

3.     Comparison of Cyberware scanner models: WB4 and WBX                 11

4.     Summary of anthropometric tools and usages                          19

5.     Landmarks terms and definitions                                     21

6.     Mid-neck and neckbase terms used in selected scanner models         31

7.     Chest and bust terms used in selected scanner models                33

8.     Waist-natural indentation and waist-navel terms used in selected    35
       scanner models

9.     Hip circumference and seat terms used in selected scanner           37
       models

10.    Sleeve length and arm length terms used in selected scanner         39
       models

11.    Inseam terms used in selected scanner models                        41

12.    Outseam terms used in selected scanner models                       42

13.    Shoulder length terms used in selected scanner models               43

14.    Across chest terms used in selected scanner models                  43

15.    Across back terms used in selected scanner models                   44

16.    Back of neck to waist length terms used in selected scanner         45
       models

17.    Rise terms used in selected scanner models                          46

18.    Crotch length terms used in selected scanner models                 47

19.    Thigh circumference terms used in selected scanner models           49


Karla P. Simmons                         vi                               A-1 Paper
Page #

20.    Bicep circumference terms used in selected scanner models    50

21.    Wrist circumference terms used in selected scanner models    51

22.    Summary of traditional measurement terms compared to         53
       selected scanner model terms




Karla P. Simmons                      vii                          A-1 Paper
List of Figures

                                                                          Page #

1.     Patterned grating in the ImageTwin      scanner                      7

2.     Booth layout of the ImageTwin    scanner                             7

3.     3D point cloud                                                       8

4.     Segmentation of the body                                             8

5.     Printout available to subject                                        8

6.     Cyberware 3D whole body scanner: Model WB4                         10

7.     Cyberware 3D whole body scanner: Model WBX                         10

8.     Cyberware scanning positions                                       12

9.     Scanning booth of the SYMCAD TurboFlash/3D                         13

10.    Standard anthropometric tools: (a) anthropometer, (b) calipers,    18
       (c) sliding compass, (d) tape measure

11.    Diagram of principle planes used in anthropometry and terms        19
       of orientation

12.    Anatomical points used in locating body landmarks on the front     24
       of the body

13.    Anatomical points used in locating body landmarks on the back      25
       of the body

14.    Anatomical points used in locating body landmarks on the side      26
       of the body




Karla P. Simmons                        viii                             A-1 Paper
BODY MEASUREMENT TECHNIQUES: A COMPARISON OF THREE-
   DIMENSIONAL BODY SCANNING AND PHYSICAL ANTHROPOMETRIC
                          METHODS




                                  Introduction



     “No one – not even the most brilliant scientist alive today – really knows
     where science is taking us. We are aboard a train which is gathering
     speed, racing down a track on which there are an unknown number of
     switches leading to unknown destinations. No single scientist is in the
     engine cab and there may be demons at the switch. Most of society is in
     the caboose looking backward.” (Lapp, Ralph E., The New Priesthood.
     New York: Harper & Row, 1961, p.29)


       In 1961, Ralph Lapp, a scientist turned writer, made these comments

about the unknown directions where science would lead us. Little did he know

that just a few years later, a new technology would be developed that would

revolutionize many industries by the end of the 21st century. This new

technology is three-dimensional (3D) non-contact body scanning.

       Although body scanning applications have been used in many areas of

study, the apparel industry is anxiously researching its usage for apparel design

and the mass customization of garments. A major frustration for consumer

shopping of apparel is finding garments that are comfortable and fit properly

(Goldsberry & Reich, 1989). This frustration is caused by the current sizing

system, which was taken from an anthropometric study conducted in 1941.

Women are shaped differently today than six decades ago. New studies are

needed to record anthropometric data of today’s culture.


Karla P. Simmons                        1                                 A-1 Paper
Three-dimensional body scanning is capable of extracting an infinite

number of types of data. However, a problem exists in the consistency of

measuring techniques between scanners. Among the several scanners that are

currently available, significant variance exists in how each captures specific body

measurements. Until the data capture process of specific body measurements

can be standardized or communicated among scanning systems, this island of

technology cannot be utilized for its maximum benefit within the apparel industry.

This paper will to a) give a brief description of several major body scanners, b)

discuss traditional anthropometry with regards to landmarks and body dimension

data, and c) present a comparison of traditional anthropometry with the

measurement techniques for each scanner.

                  Three-Dimensional Body Scanning Technology

        When measuring a large number of locations on the human body, the

most desirable method would be one of non-contact. Before the turn of the

century, surveyors were using non-contact measurement from a distance to

determine the shape of the earth’s surface (West, 1993). Their system of

triangulation would become the basis of modern methods whereas a light

sensing device would replace the theodolite1. In 1964, a full-scale male dummy

was designed with anthropometric measuring that utilized a simple three-

dimensional technique (Lovesey). Also in 1964, Vietorisz used a light source and

an arrangement of photo detectors to measure a person’s silhouette.




1
 A theodolite is a surveyor’s instrument for measuring horizontal and vertical angles (Webster’s,
1987).
Karla P. Simmons                                2                                       A-1 Paper
In 1979, Ito used an arrangement of lights with a collection of photo

detectors, which were rotated around the body being measured. A similar

system in principle was developed by Takada and Escki (1981), but with a

different setup of lights and photo detectors. In 1984, Halioua, Krishnamurphy,

Liu, and Chiang improved upon a method by Meadows, Johnson, and Allen

(1970), known today as the Moire` fringe method. They were able to determine

the body contour height of single points using two small independent gratings of

a light source and camera.

        All of these systems were only capable of measuring one side of the body

at a time. It wasn’t until 1985 that Magnant produced a system which used a

horizontal sheet of light to completely surround the body. Framework for the

system carried the projectors and cameras needed that would scan the body

from head to toe.

        Systems utilizing lasers were also being developed during this same

period of the late 1970s and early 1980s. In 1977, Clerget, Germain, and Kryze

illuminated their measured object with a scanning laser beam. Arridge, Moss,

Linney, and James (1985) used 2 vertical slices of laser along with a television

camera to measure the shapes of faces for orthodontic and maxillo-facial2

surgery. At this same time, Addleman and Addleman (1985) developed a

scanning laser beam system which is marketed today as Cyberware. Other

scanning systems have also been developed in the last fifteen years. A

list of the current major scanning systems can be found in Table 1.



2
 Maxillo-facial is the upper jaw area of the face (Webster’s, 1987).
Karla P. Simmons                                  3                        A-1 Paper
Table I. Current Major Scanning Systems

                       Scanning System       System Type
                       Hamamatsu             Light
                       Loughborough          Light
                       ImageTwin             Light
                       Wicks and Wilson      Light
                       TELMAT                Light
                       Turing                Light
                       PulsScanning          Light
                       Cognitens             Light
                       Cyberware             Laser
                       TECMATH               Laser
                       Victronic             Laser
                       Hamano                Laser
                       Polhemus              Laser
                       3DScanner             Laser



Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation (TC2)/ImageTwin

       History. In 1981, a concept generated from the National Science

Foundation was formed into Tailored Clothing Technology Corporation. Their

mission was to conduct Research and Development activities, demonstrate

technology and provide education programs for the apparel industry. In 1985,

they became Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation [(TC2)]. (TC2) is located

in Cary, North Carolina where their teaching factory is visited by thousands of

industry representatives each year.

       One of the research and development products invented by (TC2) has

been a 3-Dimensional whole body scanner and body measurement system

Karla P. Simmons                        4                                 A-1 Paper
(BMS). Work on the system began back in 1991. In 1998, the first 3D scanner

model, the 3T6, was made available to the public. The first four systems to be

delivered were to Levi Strauss & Company, San Francisco, the U.S. Navy, North

Carolina State University College of Textiles, and Clarity Fit Technology of

Minneapolis.

       The (TC2) scanner was the first scanner to be developed with the initial

focus for the clothing industry. In order for the American apparel industry to be

more competitive, (TC2) saw the need for the drive toward mass customization. 3

A move toward made-to-measure clothing necessitated fundamental technology

that would make the acquisition of essential body measurements quick, private,

and accurate for the customer.

       ImageTwin       systems. In July of 2000, (TC2) and Truefinds.com, Inc.

announced the joint venture formation of ImageTwin . The (TC2) scanner will

now be known as the ImageTwin           Digital Body Measurement System ([TC2],

2000). The model 3T6 is named by the number of towers (3) and the number of

sensors (6) that are used for the scanning process. New models have been

designed that have the same basic function but a smaller footprint: the 2T4 and

2T4s. The 2T4 and 2T4s have 2 towers with 4 sensors. The “s” in 2T4s stands

for short which denotes a smaller layout than the 2T4 (David Bruner, personal

communication, 2000). A comparison of the 2T4 and 2T4s scanner models is

shown in Table 2.




3
 Mass Customization is a term that was coined by Stan Davis in 1987 in Future Perfect. In
general , it is the delivery of custom made goods and services to a mass market.
Karla P. Simmons                                 5                                   A-1 Paper
Table 2. Comparison of ImageTwin        Scanner Models, 2T4 and 2T4s

                   Hardware              2T4          2T4s
                   System Dimensions
                     Height              7.9 ft.      7.9 ft.
                     Width               5 ft.        5 ft.
                     Length              20.5 ft.     13.5 ft.
                   Weight                600 lbs.     600 lbs.
                   Field of view
                     Height              7.2 ft.      7.2 ft.
                     Width               3.9 ft.      3.9 ft.
                     Depth               2.6 ft.      3.6 ft.
                   Setup time            4 hrs.       4 hrs.
                   Calibration time      15 mins.     15 mins.
                   Portability           Yes          Yes
                   Cost                  $65,000      $65,000



       System design. The ImageTwin         BMS utilizes phase measurement

profilometry (PMP) where structured white light is employed. The concept was

first introduced by M. Halioua in 1986 (Halioua & Hsin-Chu, 1989). The PMP

method employs white light to impel a curved, 2-dimenional patterned grating on

the surface of the body. An example of this grating can be found in Figure 1.

The pattern that is projected is captured by an area array charge-coupled device

(CCD) camera.




Karla P. Simmons                        6                                A-1 Paper
Figure 1. Patterned grating in the ImageTwin       scanner.


      The design of this system allows for extensive coverage of the entire

human body. After experimentation, it was determined that more detail and

coverage is required for the front surface of the body than on the back surface

(Hurley, Demers, Wulpurn, & Grindon 1997). The 3T6 has 2 front views that

have a 60 degree angle and a straight on back view (see Figure 2).




Figure 2. Booth layout of the ImageTwin       scanner.



      With these angles, overlap between the views is imparted where a high

degree of detail is needed for high slope regions. Minimal overlap is needed on
Karla P. Simmons                         7                               A-1 Paper
smooth surfaces. Therefore, for height coverage, six views are utilized: three

upper and three lower.

       Each system utilizes six stationary surface sensors. A single sensor

captures an area segment of the surface. When all sensors are combined, an

incorporated surface with critical area coverage of the body is formed for the use

in the production of apparel. Four images per sensor per grating are attained.

This information is used to calculate the 3D data points. The transitional yield of

the PMP method is a data cloud for all six views.

       Once the image is obtained, over 400,000 processed data points are

determined (Figure 3). Then segmentation of the body occurs and the

measurement extraction transpires (Figure 4). The specific measurement output

is predetermined by the user. A printout is available with a body image and the

measurements (Figure 5).




Figure 3. 3D point       Figure 4. Segmentation       Figure 5. Printout
cloud                    of the body                  available to subject




Karla P. Simmons                         8                                 A-1 Paper
Cyberware

       History. Another leading three-dimensional body scanner manufacturer is

Cyberware. Incorporated in December 1982, the company’s early work

consisted of digitizing and model shop services. More than two years was spent

developing the rapid 3D digitizing that they are now known for today. Currently,

Cyberware centers on manufacturing various 3D scanners with continuing

research and development in custom digitizing. They are one of the leaders in

research concerning 3D scanning for garment design and fitting,

anthropometrics, and ergonomics. Cyberware is privately funded (Cyberware,

2000a).

       The idea for whole body scanning started at Cyberware when

anthropologists at Wright-Patterson Air Force Base began deliberations on

imaging in 1991. Two years later, a formal proposal was published with an order

for a system in March of 1994. Delivery of the system was in August 1995

(Addleman, 1997). Since then, Cyberware has sold scanners all over the world

(Cyberware, 2000a).

       Cyberware systems. Although Cyberware has several different types of

scanners, they currently have only two models in the whole-body scanner line,

the WB4 and WBX. The WB4 is a color whole-body 3D scanner, the goal of

which is to obtain an accurate computer model in one pass of the scanner

(Cyberware, 2000b). The subject stands on the scanner platform while the

scanner pans down the length of the entire body (see Figure 6). The WBX is an

enclosed whole body 3D scanner (Cyberware, 2000c). It was custom designed

for use in scanning military recruits for uniform issue (ARN, 2000)(Figure 7.) The
Karla P. Simmons                           9                               A-1 Paper
systems do have similarities. Table 3 best illustrates the features of both the

WB4 and the WBX scanners.




Figure 6. Cyberware 3D whole body scanner: Model WB4.




Figure 7. Cyberware 3D whole body scanner: Model WBX.




Karla P. Simmons                        10                                 A-1 Paper
Table 3. Comparison of WB4 and WBX Scanners

                                      WB4                    WBX
               Field of view
                    Diameter          120cm (47”)
                    Height            200cm (79”)
               Scan heads             4                      4
               Cameras                4                      4
               Mirrors                4                      0
               Scan cycle time        40 secs                25 secs
               Cost                   $350K                  $150K
               Booth size
                    Width             360cm (144”)           244cm (96”)
                    Height            292cm (117”)           244cm (96”)
                    Diameter          300cm (120”)           244cm (96”)
                    Weight            450Kg (992lbs)
                   Sources: Cyberware, 2000b; Cyberware, 2000c; ARN, 2000.




       Cyberware system design. Since the WBX is still in the prototype stage of

development and is currently customized for military function, the discussion will

focus on the WB4 system in this paper. The scanner consists of two towers with

a round platform in between them. Each tower has a rail with a motor attached

to move the two scanning heads. The four heads on the WB4 are separated by

75 and 105 degree angles. This layout of the heads gives the appropriate

overlap for maximum coverage (Addleman, 1997). Previous tests concluded that

the highest surface area is derived from the subject facing in the middle of the

Head 2 and Head 3 position which is separated by 75 degrees (Brunsman,

Daanen, and Robinette, 1997) (see Figure 8). With the subject standing on the

Karla P. Simmons                             11                              A-1 Paper
platform, the scanning heads start at the subject’s head, and move down to scan

the entire body. A typical scan is less than 30 seconds and is often completed in

as little as 17 seconds (Cyberware, 2000a).




                                                                   He
                                   2




                                                                      ad
                                   d
                                ea




                                                                       1
                               H
                                                   105
                                              75         75
                                                   105




                                                                           0
                               H




                                                                        ad
                                 ea
                                    d




                                                                      He
                                    3




                           Source: Brunsman, Daanen, & Robinette, 1997, p.268.


Figure 8. Cyberware scanning positions.


        Each one of the scanning heads consists of a light source and a detector.

Laser diodes4 are the source of light, which project a level surface of light onto a

subject. This laser line is created by tubular lenses and focusing optics. A CCD,

coupled charge device, sees the line created by the laser crossing the subject.

The image is reflected using mirrors to reduce the camera size. Electronic

circuitry distributes the raw data to the workstation for the scanned points

(Addleman, 1997).

        The WB4 can produce a cloud of over 100,000 3D data points from the

human body surface (Daanen, Taylor, Brunsman, & Nurre, 1997). These points



4
 According to Webster’s Dictionary (1987), a diode is a 2-electrode electron tube having a
negative terminal (cathode) and a positive terminal (anode) of an electrolytic cell.
Karla P. Simmons                               12                                      A-1 Paper
are available within seconds for use. The four separate camera views are

illustrated and combined into one data set where redundant and overlapping data

are removed. For subjects larger than the maximum allowable dimensions for

the scanner (79” x 49”), two or more scans can be combined for a complete 3D

model (Cyberware, 2000b).



SYMCAD

       History. In 1992, a French based company, TELMAT Industrie, developed

a computerized 3D body measuring system called SYMCAD. The System for

Measuring and Creating Anthropometric Database (SYMCAD) was first used in

January 1995 by the French Navy for uniform issue (Financial Times, 1998).

       SYMCAD systems. The range of TELMAT products fall into several

categories. In the textile area, the only product they offer is the SYMCAD. They

refer to this system as “The Electronic Master Tailor”, “the SYMCAD Turbo

Flash/3D”, and “a Computerized 3D Body Measuring System” (TELMAT 2000;

L’LALSACE, 1999; Financial Times, 1998). See Figure 9 for a representation of

the SYMCAD scanner.




Figure 9. Scanning booth of the SYMCAD Turbo Flash/3D.



Karla P. Simmons                       13                                A-1 Paper
SYMCAD system design. The scanning system consists of a small

enclosed room with an illuminated wall, a camera, and a computer. The subject

enters the booth, removes their clothing, and stands in their undergarments in

front of the illuminated wall. Three different poses of the subject are

photographed: facing the camera with arms slightly apart from the body, from the

side straight on5, and facing the wall (Financial Times, 1998). These 3D images

are processed and appear on the computer screen. Over 70 measurement

calculations are made from these computerized images.

                               Traditional Anthropometry

Historical Practice

        No two people are ever alike in all of their measurable characteristics.

This uniqueness has been the object of curiosity and research for over 200

years. In the past, different individuals have set out to express quantitatively the

form of the body. This technique was termed anthropometry. The definition

used by Kroemer, Kroemer, & Kroemer-Elbert (1986) is:


       Anthropometry describes the dimensions of the human body (p.1).


        The name is derived from anthropos, meaning human, and metrikos,

meaning of or pertaining to measuring (Roebuck, Jr., 1995). The first individual

to mark the beginning of anthropometry was Quelet in 1870, with his desire to




5
  Both the front and side views adopt anthropometric poses (World Clothing Manufacturer, 1996).
The anthropometric position assumes the body is standing upright, and at “attention” with the
arms hanging by the sides slightly apart from the body, palms of the hands facing the front, and
the feet facing directly forward (Croney, 1971).
Karla P. Simmons                                 14                                     A-1 Paper
obtain measurements of the average man according to Gauss’ Law6

(Anthropometry, 2000). It wasn’t until the 1950s that anthropometrics became a

recognized discipline. Settings for usage of anthropometry include vehicles, work

sites, equipment, airplane cockpits, and clothing (CAD Modelling, 1992; Czaja,

1984; Hertzberg, 1955; Roe, 1993; Roebuck, Kroemer, & Thomson, 1975;

Sanders & Shaw, 1985).

        For years, anthropometry has been used in national sizing surveys as an

indicator of health status (Marks, Habicht, & Mueller, 1989). Assessment of the

reliability of the measures has been the topic of research for just as long (Bray,

Greenway, & Molitch, 1978; Cameron, 1986; Foster, Webber, & Sathanur, 1980;

Johnston, Hamill, & Lemshow, 1972; Malina, Hamill, & Lemshow, 1972; Malina,

Hamill, & Lemshow, 1974; Marshall, 1937; Martroll, Habicht, & Yarbrough, 1975;

Meredith, 1936).


    Reliability is defined operationally as the extent to which a measure is
    reproducible over time (Cook & Campbell, 1979; Snedecor & Cochran,
    1980).


        The reliability of a measurement has components of precision and

dependability (Mueller & Martorell, 1988). Of the two components, precision is

the most important determinate of reliability (Marks, Habicht, & Mueller, 1989;

Mueller & Martrell, 1988). However, reliability matters are often overlooked in




6
  Kal Friedrich Guass (1777-1855) was a German scientist and mathematician known for a
relation known as Gauss's Law (Hyperphysics, 2000).
Karla P. Simmons                             15                                    A-1 Paper
problem oriented research (Gordon & Bradtmiller, 1992) because of the impact of

measurement error.

         Observer error is the most troublesome source of anthropometric error. It

includes imprecision in landmark location, subject positioning, and instrument

applications. This error can even be accentuated by the use of multiple

observers even when they are trained by the same individual and work closely

together (Bennett & Osbourne, 1986; Jamison & Zegura, 1974; Utermohle &

Zegura, 1982; Utermohle, Zegura, & Heathcote, 1983;). Error limits are usually

set in advance of data collection while measurer performance is monitored

throughout the process against the pre-set standards (Cameron, 1984; Gordon,

Bradtmiller, Churchill, Clauser, McConville, Tebbetts, & Walker, 1989; Himes,

1989; Johnston & Martorell, 1988; Malina, Hamill, & Lemshow, 1973). Observer

errors in anthropometry are not random and are not unusual (Bennett & Osborne,

1986; Gordan & Bradtmiller, 1992; Jamison & Zegura, 1974). Therefore,

traditional methods of measuring bodies need a great deal of improvement.

Methodology & Instrumentation

         Methodology. Classical anthropometric data provides information on

static dimensions of the human body in standard postures (Kroemer, Kroemer, &

Kroemer-Elbert, 1986). The science of anthropometry is one of great precision.

Experienced workers in the field are the best to utilize this technique (Montagu,

1960).

         Most measurements taken of the subject are taken in the most desirable

position of standing. However, there are a few measures which warrant


Karla P. Simmons                         16                               A-1 Paper
exception. Measurements are taken, whenever possible in the morning. The

human body tends to decrease in height during the day and is often more relaxed

in the morning (Montagu, 1960). It is preferable to have the subject completely

unclothed or with as little clothing as possible.

       Kromer, Kroemer, & Kroemer-Elbert (1986) explain in detail the standard

method of measuring a subject:

       For most measurements, the subject’s body is placed in a
       defined upright straight posture, with the body segments at either
       180, 0, or 90 degrees to each other. For example, the subject
       may be required to “stand erect; heels together; buttocks,
       shoulder blades, and back of head touching the wall; arms
       vertical, fingers straight…”: This is close to the so-called
       “anatomical position” used in anatomy. The head is positioned in
       the “Frankfurt Plane”; With the pupils on the same horizontal
       level, the right tragion (approximated by the ear hole), and the
       lowest point of the right orbit (eye socket) are also placed on the
       same horizontal plane. When measures are taken on a seated
       subject, the (flat and horizontal) surfaces of seat and foot support
       are so arranged that the thighs are horizontal, the lower legs
       vertical and the feet flat on their horizontal support. The subject
       is nude, or nearly so, and unshod (p.6).

A diagram of the principle planes used in anthropometry and the terms

of orientation are given in Figure 11.

       Instrumentation. The same anthropometric instruments have been used

since Richer first used calipers in 1890 (Anthropometry, 2000). Simple,

quick, non-invasive tools include a weight scale, camera, measuring tape,

anthropometer, spreading caliper, sliding compass, and head spanner. Table 4

summarizes the tools and their uses. Figure 10 shows the tools.




Karla P. Simmons                          17                                  A-1 Paper
Table 4. Summary of Anthropometric Tools and Usages

       Anthropometric Tool                    Usage

       Weight Scale          For determining weight

       Camera                For photographing subjects

       Measuring Tape        For measuring circumferences and
                             curvatures
       Anthropometer         For measuring height and various
                             traverse diameters of the body
       Spreading Caliper     For measuring diameters

       Sliding Compass       For measuring short diameters such
                             as those of the nose, ears, hand, etc.
       Head Spanner          For determining the height of the head




                                     b




                                                      d




                                         c
               a



Figure 10. Standard anthropometric tools: (a) anthropometer, (b) calipers,
(c) sliding compass, (d) tape measure.




Karla P. Simmons                    18                             A-1 Paper
Lateral                      Medial
                            (Away from                   (Middle of
                            the body)                    the body)




                                                                                         Lateral
                                                                                         (Away from
                                                                                         the body)
                                 YZ
                                                                           Posterior
                                                                           (Back of
                                                                           the body)
                                                     Proximal
                                                     (nearer to
                                         XZ                                       Superior
                                                     the torso
                                                                      YZ          (Toward the
                                                     skeleton)
                                                                                  head)
            Anterior
            (Front of
            the body)

                   XY
                         Transverse
                         plane



                                                              Distal               Distal (further
                                                                                   from the torso
                                                                                   skeleton)
                                                    XY




                                         Sagittal
                                         plane
                                                               Coronal
                                                                 plane


                                                                            Inferior
                                                                            (Away from
                                                                            the head)




Figure 11. Diagram of principle planes used in anthropometry and
the terms of orientation.7

7
  Medial suggests near the midline. Lateral suggests farther away from the midline. Posterior
suggests at the back of the body. Anterior suggests at the front of the body. Superior suggests
toward the head. Inferior suggests away from the head. The Median plane passes through the
center of the body dividing it into a right and left half. The Sagittal plane passes through the body
parallel with the median plane. The Coronal plane passes through the body from side to side at
right angles to the sagittal plane. The Traverse plane is any plane at right angles to the long axis
of the body (Bryan, Davies, & Middlemiss, 1996; Tortora, 1986).
Karla P. Simmons                                    19                                      A-1 Paper
Landmarks

       As stated earlier, the correct identification of body landmarks is one of the

key elements in observer error in the collection of anthropometric data. In order

to have agreement as to the body measurements recorded in an anthropometric

based study, uniformity must be achieved as to what common points on the body

must be identified. These points are referred to as landmarks.




 A landmark is an anatomical structure used as a point of orientation in locating
 other structures (Websters, 1987).




       Most people have never had a formal education in anatomy to be able to

identify specific landmarks. Even though measurers are usually trained in how to

measure subjects for a study, the process is still very difficult and time

consuming. In a 1988 anthropometric survey of US Army personnel, four hours

were required to physically landmark, measure, and record the data of one

subject (Paquette, 1996).

       The first step in traditional landmarking is to mark certain places on the

body with a non-smearing, skin pencil (O’Brien & Sheldon, 1941) or skin-safe,

washable ink (Roebuck, 1995). A small cross verses a dot is usually used as the

marking symbol because the intersection of the lines is easier to read. The

traditional methods in determining and placing landmarks are given below.

Diagrams of the landmarks are given in Figures 12, 13, and 14.




Karla P. Simmons                         20                                  A-1 Paper
Table 5. Landmark Terms and Definitions

Landmark           Symbol        Definition
Abdominal            A           Viewed from the side, it is the measure of the
Extension                        greatest protrusion from one imaginary side seam to
(Front High-Hip)                 the other imaginary side seam usually taken at the
                                 high hip level (ASTM, 1999); taken approximately 3
                                 inches below the waist, parallel to the floor (ASTM,
                   Figure 14     1995)
Acromion               B         The most prominent point on the upper edge of the
(Shoulder Point)                 acromial process of the shoulder blade (scapula)[T]
                                 as determined by palpatation (feeling) (Jones, 1929;
                   Figure 12     McConville, 1979).
Ankle                  C         The joint between the foot and lower leg; the
(Malleolus)                      projection of the end of the major bones of the lower
                                 leg, fibula and tibia, that is prominent, taken at the
                                 minimum circumference (McConville, 1979; O’Brien &
                   Figures 12,   Sheldon, 1941; ASTM, 1999).
                     13, 14
Armpit                 D         Points at the lower (inferior) edge determined by
(Axilla)                         placing a straight edge horizontally and as high as
                                 possible into the armpit without compressing the skin
                                 and marking the front and rear points or the hollow
                   Figures 12,
                                 part under the arm at the shoulder (McConville, 1979;
                       13        ASTM, 1999). *See Scye.
Bicep Point            E         Point of maximum protrusion of the bicep muscle, the
                                 brachii, as viewed when elbow is flexed 90 degrees,
                                 fist clenched and bicep strongly contracted (Gordon,
                                 Churchhill, Clauser, Bradtmiller, McConville,
                   Figure 12     Tebbetts, & Walker, 1989; ASTM, 1999).
Bust Point             F         Most prominent protrusion of the bra cup (Gordon,
                                 et.al, 1989, McConville, 1979; O’Brien & Sheldon,
                   Figure 14     1941); apex of the breast (ASTM, 1999).
Buttock                G         Level of maximum protrusion as determined by visual
(Seat)             Figure 14     inspection (McConville, 1979; Gordon, et.al, 1989)
Calf                   H         Part of the leg between the knee and ankle at
(Gastrocnemius)    Figures 12,
                                 maximum circumference (McConville, 1979; ASTM,
                     13, 14      1999).
Cervicale               I        At the base of the neck [R] portion of the spine and
(Vertebra                        located at the tip of the spinous process of the 7th
Prominous)                       cervical vertebra determined by palpatation, often
                                 found by bending the neck or head forward
                                 (McConville, 1979; Jones, 1929; Gordon, et.al, 1989;
                   Figures 13,   O’Brien & Sheldon, 1941; ASTM, 1999).
                       14




Karla P. Simmons                         21                                A-1 Paper
Landmark           Symbol        Definition
Collarbone Point     J           Upper (superior) points of the shoulder (lateral) ends
(Clavical Point)   Figure 12
                                 of the clavical (Gordon, et.al, 1989).
Crotch Point           K         Body area adjunct to the highest point (vertex) of the
                   Figures 12,
                                 included angle between the legs (ASTM, 1999).
                       13
Crown                  L         Top of the head (ASTM, 1999; O’Brien & Sheldon,
                   Figure 12
                                 1941).
Elbow                  M         When arm is bent, the farthermost (lateral) point of
(Olecranon)                      the olecranon which is the projection of the end of the
                                 inner most bone in the lower arm (ulna) (O’Brien &
                                 Sheldon, 1941); the joint between the upper and
                   Figures 12,   lower arm (ASTM, 1999).
                     13, 14
Gluteal Furrow         N         The crease formed at the juncture of the thigh and
Point              Figures 13,
                                 buttock (McConville, 1979; Gordon, et. Al, 1989).
                       14
Hip Bone               O         Outer bony prominence of the upper end of the thigh
(Greater                         bone (femer) (ASTM, 1999; O’Brien & Sheldon,
Trochanter)        Figures 12,   1941).
                       14
Iliocristale           P         Highest palpable point of the iliac crest of the pelvis,
                                 ½ the distance between the front (anterior) and back
                   Figures 12,
                                 (posterior) upper (superior) iliac spine (Gordon, et.al,
                       14        1989; Jones, 1929).
Kneecap                Q         Upper and lower borders of the kneecap (patella)
                                 located by palpatation (Gordon, et.al, 1989;
                   Figures 12,
                                 McConville, 1979); joint between the upper and lower
                       14        leg (ASTM, 1999).
Neck                   R         Front (anterior) and side (lateral) points at the base of
                                 the neck; points on each cervical and upper borders
                                 of neck ends of right and left clavicles [J] (O’Brien &
                   Figures 12,   Sheldon, 1941; Gordon, et.al, 1989).
                       13
Infrathyroid           S         The bottom (inferior), most prominent point in the
(Adam’s Apple)                   middle of the thyroid cartilage found in the center
                   Figure 14
                                 front of the neck (Gordon, et.al, 1989).
Shoulder Blade         T         Large, triangular, flat bones situated in the back part
(Scapula)                        of the chest (thorax) between the 2nd and 7th ribs
                   Figures 13,   (Totora, 1986; Bryan, Davies, & Middlemiss, 1996).
                       14
Scye                   U         Points at the folds of the juncture of the upperarm and
                                 torso associated with a set-in sleeve of a garment
                                 (Gordon, et.al, 1989; McConville, 1979; O’Brien &
                                 Sheldon,1941). *See Armpit.



Karla P. Simmons                          22                                 A-1 Paper
Landmark           Symbol        Definition
Top of the           V           Bottom most (inferior) point of the jugular notch of the
Breastbone                       breastbone (sternum) (Gordon, et. al, 1989; Jones,
(Suprasternal)     Figure 12     1929).
Tenth Rib             W          Lower edge point of the lowest rib at the bottom of the
                                 rib cage (Gordon, et. al, 1989; O’Brien & Sheldon,
                   Figures 12,   1941).
                       14
7th Thoracic           X         The 7th vertebra of 12 of the thoracic type which
Vertebra                         covers from the neck to the lower back (Totora,
                   Figure 13     1986).
Waist (Natural         Y         Taken at the lower edge of the 10th rib [W] by
indentation)                     palpatation (O’Brien & Sheldon, 1941); point of
                                 greatest indentation on the profile of the torso or ½
                                 the distance between the 10th rib [W] and iliocristale
                                 [P] landmarks (Gordon, et.al, 1989); location between
                                 the lowest rib [W] and hip [O] identified by bending
                   Figure 13     the body to the side (ASTM, 1999).
Waist                  Z         Center of navel (umbilicus) (Gordon, et. al, 1989;
(Omphalion)        Figure 14     Jones, 1929).
Wrist (Carpus)        AA         Joint between the lower arm and hand (ASTM, 1999);
                                 Distal ends (toward the fingers) of the ulna (the inner
                                 most bone) and radius (the outer most bone) of the
                   Figures 12,   lower arm (McConville, 1979; Gordon, et. al, 1989).
                       13




Karla P. Simmons                          23                                A-1 Paper
[L] Crown

                                                             Neck [R]
            Collarbone Point
        [J] (Clavical Point)
                                                                        Shoulder Point
                                                                          (Acromion) [B]
       Top of Breastbone
[V]     (Suprasternal)
                                                                   Bicep
              Armpit                                               Point [E]
          [D] (Axilla)

                                                               Iliocristale [P]
               Elbow
        [M] (Olecranon)
                                                                  Hip Bone
                                                                  (Greater    [O]
                                                                  Trochanter)
                  Tenth
              [W] Rib
                                                                  Wrist
                                                                 (Carpus) [AA]




                Crotch
            [K] Point
                                                                     Calf
                                                                (Gastrocnemius) [H]


                     Kneecap
                [Q] (Patella)

                                                           Ankle
                                                         (Malleolus) [C]




      Figure 12. Anatomical points used in locating body landmarks on the front
      of the body.

      Karla P. Simmons                   24                                A-1 Paper
[R] Neck

                                                                 Cervicale
                                                                (7th Cervical [I]
                                                                 Vertebra)


   7th Thoracic
[X] Vertebra                                                   Shoulder Blades
                                                                  (Scapula) [T]


      Waist
 [Y] (Natural                                                        Armpit
    Indentation)                                                     (Axilla) [D]



        Wrist                                                   Elbow
 [AA] (Carpus)                                                (Olecranon) [M]




                                                           Gluteal
                                                           Furrow
            Crotch
                                                            Point       [N]
        [K] Point



                                                           Calf
                                                           (Gastrocnemius) [H]
               Ankle
         [C] (Malleolus)




 Figure 13. Anatomical points used in locating body landmarks on the back
 of the body.
 Karla P. Simmons                    25                            A-1 Paper
Adam’s Apple
            Cervical
                                                    (Infrathyroid) [S]
     (7th Cerival Vertebra)
               [I]
                                                      Bust Point [F]



         Shoulder Blade
   [T]     (Scapula)


                                                                 Elbow
                                                              (Olecranon) [M]
         [W] Tenth Rib
                                                                    Waist
                                                                  (Omphalion) [Z]

         [G] Buttock
                                                                Iliocristale [P]


         Gluteal Furrow                                      Abdominal
     [N]     Point                                            Extension [A]


                                                       Hip Bone
                    Calf
                                                        (Greater [O]
          [H] (Gatrocnemius)
                                                       Trochanter)




                                                     Kneecap
               Ankle                                 (Patella) [Q]
         [C] (Malleolus)




Figure 14. Anatomical points used in locating body landmarks on the side
of the body.
Karla P. Simmons                   26                             A-1 Paper
Comparison of the Traditional Anthropometrical Method With 3D Body
                            Scanning Methods

       Simple anthropometric methods using measuring tapes and calipers are

still being utilized to measure the human body. The methods are time consuming

and often not accurate. With the development of three-dimensional body

scanning, this technology allows for the extraction of body measurements in

seconds. It also allows consistent measurements. However, there are several

problems that exist with the adoption of this technology.

       One such issue is the comparability of measuring techniques between the

scanners. Among the growing number of scanners that are currently available,

significant variance exists in how each scanner captures specific body

measurements. Until the data capture process of these measurements can be

standardized or, at the very least, communicated among the scanning systems,

this technology cannot be utilized for its maximum benefit within the apparel

industry.

       A second problem is the unwillingness of some scanner companies to

share information about their scanning process. Some companies will give how

the data capture occurs, how and what landmarks are used, and general

information about their measurement extraction. However, the real proprietary

information is in the mathematic/algebraic algorithms that are used. Almost all

scanning companies are keeping this secret, which is understandable since this

might be their competitive advantage. When these particular scanning

companies are questioned about their data capturing methods, they simply give a

standard answer of “we follow the ISO standards” or a similar statement. These

Karla P. Simmons                        27                                A-1 Paper
are the kinds of attitudes that cause barriers to be built, which could inhibit the

growth of this technology. Research of this comparative nature should enable

3D scanner companies to see the importance of their support in order to promote

adoption of their technologies.

       A third problem with body scanning technology is that there are no

standards, published or unpublished, on the interpretation of measurements or

measurement terms. Current standards for body and garment dimensions

include those established by the Association of Standards and Testing Materials

(ASTM) and the International Standards Organization (ISO). The predominant

standard for measurements taken for the military today in their issue of clothing is

the 1988 study of U.S. Army personnel by Gordon, Bradtmiller, Churchhill,

Clouser, McConville, Tebbetts, and Walker (1989).

       Three-dimensional body scanning brings to the forefront issues

concerning these current standards. Most current standards require palpatation,

or touching of the human body, or the bending of body parts to find appropriate

landmarks for the needed measurements. Most scanners are intended to be

non-contact so that the privacy of the individual being scanned can be protected.

If we were to use the current standards to define the measuring process in 3D

scanning, they just will not work. New standards are needed that will work for 3D

scanners on a global basis.

       A fourth problem is the need of some scanners to require landmarking.

Manually identifying landmarks is time consuming and, usually, full of error.

Landmarking also violates the privacy of the individual. A human must come in

contact with the subject’s skin in order to find the landmark and to mark it. On
Karla P. Simmons                          28                                A-1 Paper
the other side, another issue is that scanners that do landmarking automatically

are most times making an educated guess as to the exact location of that

landmark. Without being able to touch the subject’s skin, absolute identification

cannot be achieved.

         In this study, 17 measurements were chosen that were considered critical

in the initial design of well fitting garments. These measures included

midneck/neckbase, chest/bust, waist by natural indentation/waist by navel,

hips/seat, sleeve length/arm length, inseam, outseam, shoulder length, across

back, across chest, back of neck to waist, rise, crotch length, thigh

circumference, bicep circumference, and wrist circumference. For each of the 17

measurements, the method of data capture is described below for three different

scanners: ImageTwin , Cyberware, and SYMCAD.

Neck-Midneck

         Traditional measurement method. The midneck is defined as the

circumference of the neck approximately 25mm (1 inch) above the neck base

(ASTMa,1995; ASTMb, 1995; ASTM, 1999). The girth of the neck measured

2cm below the Adam’s apple and at the level of the 7th cervical vertebra (ISO,

1981; ISO, 1989; National Bureau of Standards (NBS), 1971). The plane is

perpendicular to the long axis of the body (McConville, 1979; Gordon, et al,

1979).

         ImageTwin    method. In this system, the mid-neck measure is referred to

as the “collar”. It is measured by




Karla P. Simmons                         29                               A-1 Paper
Cyberware method. The “neck circumference” measure

is taken at the collar level. It is the smallest circumference of

points that pass through the center of the Adam’s Apple. It

often lies on or near a plane at varying offsets and tilt angles

(Steven Paquette, personal communication, December 1,                Figure 15.
                                                                     Midneck
2000).                                                               measurement.

         SYMCAD method. The “neck girth” is the perimeter of the neck that is the

smallest circumference measured from the 7th cervical vertebra (SYMCAD,

2000).

         Discussion. For the midneck measure, the first issue of discussion is that

the current standards are not in agreement as to the proper method of

measurement. About 25 mm above the neckbase and 2 cm below the Adam’s

apple can vary widely between individuals. Secondly, men have an Adam’s

apple but women do not. The ISO and NBS definitions seem not to be

appropriate for women. Thirdly, the terms used for the midneck are not clear.

The midneck measure is used as the collar measurement in men’s shirts.

ImageTwin recognizes this usage by calling their measure “collar”. However,

Cyberware and SYMCAD refer to their midneck as neck circumference and neck

girth.




Karla P. Simmons                          30                               A-1 Paper
Neck-Neckbase

       Traditional measurement method. The neckbase is defined as the

circumference of the neck taken just over the cervical at the back and at the top

of the collarbone in the front (ISO, 1989; ASTMa, 1995; ASTM, 1999; NBS, 1971;

NBS, 1972).

       ImageTwin     method. The neckbase is the “neck”

measurement in this system. It is the circumference measured

right at the base of the neck following the contours. It is not

parallel to the floor (Ken Harrison, personal communication,

September, 1999).

       Cyberware method. Cyberware does not have a
                                                                   Figure 16.
neckbase measure.                                                  Neckbase
                                                                   measurement.
       SYMCAD method.        The “neckbase” is the perimeter

around the neck defined by a plane section based on the 7th cervical vertebra

and both left and right neck bases (SYMCAD, 2000).

       Discussion. The neckbase measurement for the ImageTwin and

SYMCAD seem to be consistent with the current standards. The term “neck”

could be changed so it would not be confused with the midneck measure. This

measure is possibly more important for women than men because of the various

collarless clothing styles. Considering the development of the Cyberware system

and its use by the military, it is understandable that they have not developed a

neckbase measure.




Karla P. Simmons                         31                               A-1 Paper
Table 6. Midneck and Neckbase Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models


                               Midneck                    Neckbase
              ImageTwin        Collar                     Neck
              Cyberware        Neck Circumference         n/a
              SYMCAD           Neck Girth                 Neckbase




Chest Circumference

       Traditional measurement method. The chest circumference is defined as

the maximum horizontal girth at bust levels measured under the armpits, over the

shoulder blades, and across the nipples with the subject breathing normally

(NSB, 1971; ISO, 1989; ISO, 1981); parallel to the floor (ASTMa, 1995; ASTMb,

1995; ASTM, 1999; McConville, 1979).

       ImageTwin    method. The “chest” measurement is measured horizontally

at the armpit level just above the bustline (Ken Harrison, personal

communication, September, 1999; [TC2], 1999).

       Cyberware method. Cyberware does not have a

measurement that differentiates the chest from the bust

measures. Their chest measure is more related to the

bust measure and is discussed in the next section.

       SYMCAD method. The “maximum chest girth” is

the maximum horizontal perimeter of the chest

(SYMCAD, 2000).                                                 Figure 17. Chest
                                                                circumference
                                                                measurement.

Karla P. Simmons                        32                                 A-1 Paper
Discussion. Current standards do not differentiate between the chest and

bust measurements. However, there is a distinct difference. The only system to

clearly recognize this difference is the ImageTwin. The SYMCAD

measurement discusses the maximum circumference which on a man might be

the chest measure. For a woman, the bust will almost always be the maximum

circumference. The above-bust (or chest) circumference is vitally important for

the best fit in women’s clothing. Because men’s clothing is seldom created with

a close, form fit, the measure and its determination may be less important.

Bust Circumference

       Traditional measurement method. The bust circumference is defined as

the maximum horizontal girth at bust level measured under the armpits, over the

shoulder blades, and across the nipples with the subject breathing normally

(NSB, 1971; ISO, 1989; ISO, 1981); parallel to the floor (ASTMa, 1995; ASTMb,

1995; ASTM, 1999; McConville, 1979).

       ImageTwin     method. The “bust” measurement is the horizontal

circumference taken across the bust points at the

fullest part of the chest ([TC2], 1999).

       Cyberware method. The “chest circumference”

measurement is the sum of the distances separating

successive points from the torso segment that lies on

or near a parallel place to the X axis which passes

through the right and left bustpoints (Steven           Figure 18. Bust
                                                        circumference
Paquette, personal communication, December 1,           measurement.

Karla P. Simmons                           33                             A-1 Paper
2000).

         SYMCAD method. The “chest girth” is the horizontal perimeter measured

at the average height of the most prominent points of each breast with the

subject standing with arms apart and breathing normally (SYMCAD, 2000).

         Discussion. All three scanners have definitions that include going through

the bust points for the bust circumference. The standards discuss going across

the nipples but, if you notice, this definition is the same as the one for chest

circumference. The definition for the chest measurement should be changed in

the standards to reflect the true definition of being measured horizontally at the

armpit level just above the bustline. The terminology in the three scanners for

the bust circumference name should be changed to reflect a very different bust

measure. Since the term “bust” may be an issue in men’s measurement and not

really needed, another general term may be needed or the measurement sets

may be defined by gender.


Table 7. Chest and Bust Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models

                        Chest                        Bust
     ImageTwin          Chest                        Bust
     Cyberware          n/a                          Chest Circumference
     SYMCAD             Maximum Chest Girth          Chest Girth



Waist-Natural Indentation

         Traditional measurement method. The natural waist measure is defined

as the horizontal circumference at the level of the waist, immediately below the

lowest rib (Gordon, et al, 1989; ASTM, 1999; ASTMa, 1995; NSB, 1971; NSB,
Karla P. Simmons                         34                                  A-1 Paper
1972); between the iliac crest and lower ribs (ISO, 1989; ISO, 1981); may not be

parallel to the floor (ASTMb, 1995).

       ImageTwin       method. The “waist” is the smallest circumference between

the bust and hips determined by locating the small of the back and then going up

and down a predetermined amount for a starting point to find the waist. The

system allows the user to define how far from horizontal the waist can rotate or

determine a fixed angle for the waist. Zeros for the center front and center back

values will make the waist parallel to the floor. The waist can be adjusted based

on the hips. The distance you start above the waist is based upon where the

hips are located. The system uses a formula that defines a distance above the

crotch to start the waist based on the circumference of the hips. Someone who

has rather large, wide hips might allow the waist to go up higher (Ken Harrison,

personal communication, September 1999; [TC2], 1999).

       Cyberware Method. This system does not use the natural indentation of

the body as the waist measure. They use the navel as the waist landmark which

is explained in the next section.

       SYMCAD method. The “natural waist girth” is the horizontal perimeter

measured at the narrowest part of the abdomen (SYMCAD, 2000).

       Discussion. Both ImageTwin and SYMCAD have definitions that

coincide with the current standards. However, palpatation or bending to one side

is needed to determine the landmarks used in the natural waist. In a scanner,

the subject stands vertically and does not move. Therefore, the standards need

to reflect this issue in their definition.


Karla P. Simmons                             35                           A-1 Paper
Waist-Navel (Omphalion)

       Traditional measurement method. No current standard could be found

that had a waist-at-the-navel definition.

       ImageTwin     method. This system does not have a method of detecting

the navel for use in the waist measurement.

       Cyberware method. The “waist circumference” is taken in reference to the

navel. It is the measurement of the total distance around the torso segment that

lies on or near a plane parallel to the XY plane which

passes through the navel (omphalion). The center of the

navel is taken to be the center of mass of the 3D object

occurring at or near the inside middle of the central third

of the torso segment (Steven Paquette, personal

communication, December 1, 2000).

       SYMCAD method. The “waist girth (at the                Figure 19. Waist at
                                                              the navel
navel)” is the horizontal perimeter measured where the        measurement.

system detects the navel. The “belt girth” is where the trousers are worn

according to the rise as defined by the user (SYMCAD, 2000).

       Discussion. Using the navel as a landmark has a significant problem of

not being able to be located. The subject in the scanner will usually have on

clothing that could cover up the navel. This would affect other measurements

that rely on an accurate waist measure for their extraction. The terminology for

the waist-at-the-navel terms for Cyberware and SYMCAD should be changed to

indicate the usage of the navel as a landmark.


Karla P. Simmons                            36                              A-1 Paper
Table 8. Waist-Natural Indentation and Waist-Navel(Omphalion)Terms Used
in Selected Scanner Models

                      Waist-Natural                Waist-Navel
                      Indentation                  (Omphalion)
     ImageTwin        Waist                        n/a
     Cyberware        n/a                          Waist Circumference
     SYMCAD           Natural Waist Girth          Waist Girth
                                                   Belt girth



Hip Circumference

       Traditional measurement method. The hip circumference is defined as the

maximum hip circumference of the body at the hip level, parallel to the floor

(ASTMa, 1995); maximum circumference of the body at the level of maximum

prominence of the buttocks (ASTM, 1999); maximum hip circumference at the

level of maximum prominence of the buttocks, parallel to the floor (ASTMb,

1995); the horizontal girth measured round the buttocks at the level of the

greatest lateral trochanteric projectors (ISO, 1989); the horizontal girth measured

round the buttocks at the level of maximum circumference (ISO, 1981).

       ImageTwin    method. The “hips” measure is defined as the largest

circumference defined between the waist and the crotch. Upper and lower limits

can be specified by the user. These limits are based on a percentage of the

distance from the crotch and the waist and a distance above or below that point

(Ken Harrison, personal communication, September, 1999; [TC2], 1999).

       Cyberware method. Cyberware does not have a hips measurement.

       SYMCAD method. SYMCAD does not have a hips measurement.

Karla P. Simmons                        37                                A-1 Paper
Seat

       Traditional measurement method. The seat measure is defined as the

horizontal circumference of the level of the maximum protrusion of the right

buttock, as viewed from the side (Gordon, et al, 1989).

       ImageTwin     Method. The “seat” measure is the circumference taken at

the largest (widest) part of the bottom, as viewed from the side. The seat

measure will never be larger than the hips measure unless limits are placed on

the area the scanner searches in (Ken Harrison, personal communication,

September, 1999; [TC2], 1999).

       Cyberware Method. The “seat circumference” finds the seat at the most

prominent posterior protuberance on the buttocks. Starting at the crotch, cross

sections of the pelvis are taken until the waist is reached. At each level, the

greatest posterior point is found. At the level of the most posterior point, the

circumference is measured around the point cloud (Beecher, 1999).

       SYMCAD method. The “seat girth” is the horizontal

perimeter measured at the average height of the most

prominent point of the buttocks (SYMCAD, 2000).

       Discussion. The traditional definitions of this

measure allow for a great deal of measurement variance

since no consistent landmark is defined. The                   Figure 20. Seat
                                                               measurement.
ImageTwin     most correctly follows the ASTMa, 1995

and ISO, 1981 standards but does not support the other definitions. The other

definitions (ASTMb, 1995; ASTM, 1999; ISO, 1989) most clearly follow the


Karla P. Simmons                         38                                 A-1 Paper
definition of seat as stated above. A strong case can be made for the importance

of both hip and seat measures as well as the location of those measures form a

basic landmark (floor or waist).


Table 9. Hip Circumference and Seat Terms Used in Selected Scanner
Models

                       Hip Circumference           Seat
     ImageTwin         Hips                        Seat
     Cyberware         n/a                         Seat Circumference
     SYMCAD            n/a                         Seat Girth



Sleeve Length

         Traditional measurement method. The sleeve length is defined as the

horizontal surface distance from the mid-spine landmark, across the olecranon-

center landmark at the tip of the raised right elbow, to the dorsal wrist landmark

(Gordon, et al, 1989); the distance between the 7th cervical vertebra to the

extremity of the wrist bone, passing over the top of the shoulder (acromion) and

along the arm bent at 90 degrees in a horizontal position (ISO, 1989; ASTMa,

1995).

         ImageTwin   method. The “shirt sleeve length” is

measured from the back of the neck, over the shoulder, and

down to 2 inches above the knuckle ([TC2], 1999).

         Cyberware method. The “sleeve length” measure

starts by measuring one-half the cross-shoulder                  Figure 21.
                                                                 Sleeve length
measurement. A line is then drawn from the shoulder              measurement.

Karla P. Simmons                        39                                 A-1 Paper
endpoint (acromion) to the wrist. One inch is added to the length to give the

approximate sleeve end point (ARN, 1999).

       SYMCAD method. The “total arm length” is the distance between the

base of the neck and the exterior inferior edge of the wrist, measured along the

arm through the tops of both the acromion and the elbow, arm and forearm in a

vertical plane forming an angle of about 120 degrees. The subject must stand

with their fists about 15cm out from the hips (SYMCAD, 2000).

       Discussion. This measure, as defined here, is primarily used in men’s

tailored clothing. The ISO, ASTM, and U.S. Army study standards for sleeve

length require the arm to be bent at 90 degrees for this measure. In many

scanners, the subject’s arms are hanging straight down and are not bent. None

of these standards will work for body scanning as they currently exist. SYMCAD

needs to have a term that reflects its relationship with the sleeve.

Arm Length

       Traditional measurement method. The arm length is defined as the

distance from the armscye/shoulder line intersection (acromion), over the elbow,

to the far end of the prominent wrist bone (ulna), with fists clenched and placed

on the hip and with the arms bent at 90 degrees (ISO, 1989; ASTMa, 1995;

ASTMb, 1995; ASTM, 1999).

       ImageTwin     method. This system does not have an arm length measure.

       Cyberware method. This system does not have an arm length measure.

       SYMCAD method. The “arm length” measure is the distance between the

edge of the shoulder and the exterior inferior edge of the wrist, measured along


Karla P. Simmons                         40                               A-1 Paper
the arm through the top of the elbow, arm, and forearm in a vertical plane forming

an angle of about 120 degrees, standing with fists about

15cm apart from the hips(SYMCAD, 2000).

       Discussion. SYMCAD is the only scanner with this

arm length measure at this time. It is labeled appropriately.

The current standards require the arms to be bent at 90

degrees. The ImageTwin and Cyberware require                     Figure 22. Arm
                                                                  length
subjects to hang their arms naturally be their side, slightly     measurement.

away from the body. The SYMCAD requires an awkward stance of the elbows

bent up and out from the body. However, it does not give the 90 degrees

stipulated by the standards and is questionable as to whether this would effect

the measure.


Table 10. Sleeve Length and Arm Length Terms Used in Selected Scanner
Models

                       Sleeve Length                 Arm Length
     ImageTwin         Shirt Sleeve Length           n/a
     Cyberware         Sleeve Length                 n/a
     SYMCAD            Total Arm Length              Arm Length



Inseam

       Traditional measurement method. The inseam measure is defined as the

distance from the crotch intersection straight down to the soles of the feet

(ASTMa, 1995; ASTMb, 1995; ASTM, 1999; ISO, 1981; ISO, 1989)




Karla P. Simmons                         41                                A-1 Paper
ImageTwin     method. The “inseam” measure

allows for user defined parameters on where the inseam

should be measured. Both methods start at the crotch

point. One variation of the measure can be made straight

down to the floor. The other variation can take the

measure along the inside of the leg, ending at the inside of

the foot. The default for the system gives the height of the

crotch straight up from the floor ([TC2], 1999).

       Cyberware method. The “pant inseam” is the                Figure 23. Inseam
                                                                 measurement.
measure of the crotch height which is the straight height

above the floor of the lowest crotch point. The legs are separated from the torso

at the crotch, therefore the measurement value is the height of segmentation

between the legs and torso (Steven Paquette, personal communication,

December 1, 2000).

       SYMCAD method. The “inside leg length” is the distance measured on a

straight line along the leg between the crotch and the ground while subject

stands with legs apart (SYMCAD, 2000).

       Discussion. SYMCAD is the only system that deviates from the current

definitions in that it is measured along the leg and not straight down to the floor.

Its terminology could be changed to be inline with the others.




Karla P. Simmons                         42                                  A-1 Paper
Table 11. Inseam Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models

                                      Inseam
                    ImageTwin         Inseam
                    Cyberware         Pant Inseam
                    SYMCAD            Inside Leg Length



Outseam

       Traditional measurement method. The distance from the side waist to the

soles of the feet, following the curves of the body (ASTM, 1999; ISO, 1981);

following the contour of the hip then vertically down (ISO, 1989); The vertical

distance between a standing surface and the landmark at the preferred landmark

of the right waist (Gordon, et al, 1989).

       ImageTwin     method. The “outseam” measure starts at the side waist

point and follows the body down to the hips. From there, user defined

parameters allow three variations: (1) from the hip point, the measure goes

straight down to the floor and disregards whether the

legs are in the way or not, (2) from the hip point, the

measure goes down to the outside of the foot, and

(3) from the hip point, the measure goes straight to

the floor as soon as there is no leg getting in the way

([TC2], 1999).

       Cyberware method. This system does not

have an outseam measure.
                                                          Figure 24. Outseam
       SYMCAD method. The “outside leg length” is         measurement.


Karla P. Simmons                            43                             A-1 Paper
the distance comprised between the natural waist line and the ground, measured

on the flank side along the hip and then vertically from the fleshy part of the thigh

(SYMCAD, 2000).

          Discussion. Both ImageTwin and SYMCAD follow the same basic

definition. However, the standards should be clearer on the outseam measure.

Gordon’s traditional definition is really a vertical waist height measure. While an

important measure, it doesn’t have a direct application or the best fit of pants or

skirts.



Table 12. Outseam Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models

                                      Outseam
                      ImageTwin       Outseam
                      Cyberware       n/a
                      SYMCAD          Outside Leg Length



Shoulder Length

          Traditional measurement method. The shoulder length measure is taken

with the arms hanging down naturally. It is the measure from the side of the neck

base to the armscye line at the shoulder joint (ASTMa, 1995; ASTMb, 1995;

ASTM, 1999); from the base of the side of the neck (neck point) to the acromion

extremity (ISO, 1989).

          ImageTwin   method. The “shoulder length” is the distance from the side

of the neck to the shoulder point (acromion)([TC2], 1999).




Karla P. Simmons                            44                              A-1 Paper
Cyberware Method. This system does not have a shoulder length

measure.

         SYMCAD method. With the arms apart, the

“shoulder length” is the distance between the base of

the neck and the edge of the shoulder (SYMCAD,

2000).

         Discussion. Both the ImageTwin and

SYMCAD have terms and definitions that are

consistent with the current standards. However, there
                                                                    Figure 25. Shoulder
is still an issue of the scanners being able to correctly           length measurement.

identify the landmarks of the neck and acromion consistently.



Table 13. Shoulder Length Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models

                                           Shoulder Length
                       ImageTwin           Shoulder Length
                       Cyberware           n/a
                       SYMCAD              Shoulder Length
Across Chest

         Traditional measurement method. Measure across the chest from

armscye to armscye at front breakpoint8 level (ASTMa, 1995; ASTMb, 1995);

from front-break point to front-break point (ASTM, 1999).




8
 Front breakpoint is the location on the front of the body where the arm separates from the body
(ASTM, 1999).
Karla P. Simmons                                  45                                    A-1 Paper
ImageTwin       method. The “across chest”

measure is taken from the front of the arm at the

armpit level to the front of the other arm at the

armpit level ([TC2], 1999).

       Cyberware method. This system does not

have an across chest measure.

       SYMCAD method. The “across chest”                        Figure 26. Across
                                                                chest measurement.
measure is the distance between the points

situated at the middle of the segment between the edge of the shoulder and the

armpit in the front with subject standing with arms apart (SYMCAD, 2000).

       Discussion. The definition for the across chest measure for SYMCAD

seems unclear. Greater detail or different wording should be used.



Table 14. Across Chest Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models

                                          Across Chest
                      ImageTwin           Across Chest
                      Cyberware           n/a
                      SYMCAD              Across Chest



Across Back

       Traditional measurement method. Measure across the back from

armscye to armscye back-break point9 level (ASTMa, 1995; ASTM, 1999);

approximately the same level as the chest (ASTMb, 1995); the horizontal

9
 Back breakpoint is the location on the back of the body where the arm separates from the body
(ASTM, 1999).
Karla P. Simmons                                46                                    A-1 Paper
distance across the back measured half-way between the upper and lower scye

levels (ISO, 1989).

       ImageTwin      method. The “across back” measure is taken from the back

of one arm to the back of the other at the armpit level, where the arm joins the

back at the crease ([TC2], 1999).

       Cyberware method. This system does not

have an across back measure.

       SYMCAD method. The “across back”

measure is the distance between the points situated

at the middle of the segment between the edge of

the shoulder and the armpit in the back with the         Figure 27. Across
                                                         back measurement.
subject standing with arms apart (SYMCAD, 2000).

       Discussion. Te definition for the across back measure for SYMCAD

seems unclear. Greater detail or different wording should be used. Standards

should be more consistent.



Table 15. Across Back Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models

                                     Across Back
                      ImageTwin      Across Back
                      Cyberware      n/a
                      SYMCAD         Across Back




Karla P. Simmons                           47                              A-1 Paper
Back of Neck to Waist Length

       Traditional measurement method. The back of neck to waist measure is

defined as the distance from the 7th cervical vertebra (cervicale), following the

contour of the spinal column, to the waist (ISO, 1989; ASTMa, 1995; ASTMb,

1995; ASTM, 1999; Gordon, et al, 1989).

       ImageTwin     method. The “neck to waist” measure

can be measured in the front or the back. For the back

measure, it is taken at the neck base, following the contours

of the spine down to the waist at the location previously

defined in the system ([TC2], 1999).

       Cyberware method. This system does not have a             Figure 28.
                                                                 Back of neck
back of neck to waist measure.                                   to waist
                                                                 measurement.
       SYMCAD method. The “back neck to waist” is the

distance between the 7th cervical vertebra and the waist (at the navel) along the

body between the shoulder blades up to the widest point then vertically. The

“back neck to belt” is the distance between the 7th cervical vertebra and the belt

(the waist measure at the preferred height) along the body between the shoulder

blades up to the widest point then vertically (SYMCAD, 2000).

       Discussion. This is a critical measure for appropriate fit of most upper

body garments. A significant issue for this measure is the location of the waist.

When the waist measure is standardized, it will affect this measure also.




Karla P. Simmons                         48                                 A-1 Paper
Table 16. Back of Neck to Waist Length Terms Used in Selected Scanner
Models

                                      Back of Neck to Waist
                    ImageTwin         Neck to Waist
                    Cyberware         n/a
                    SYMCAD            Back Neck to Waist
                                      Back Neck to Belt



Rise

       Traditional measurement method. The rise measure is defined as the

vertical distance between the waist level and the crotch level taken standing from

the side (ISO, 1989; ASTM, 1999); while sitting on a hard, flat surface, measure

straight down from the waist level at the side of the body to the flat surface

(ASTMa, 1995).

       ImageTwin     method. The “vertical rise” is the

vertical distance from the crotch to the waist, not being

measured along the body. Instead, it is the difference in

height of the waist and the crotch ([TC2], 1999).

       Cyberware method. This system does not have a

rise measure.

       SYMCAD method. The “body rise” is the difference         Figure 29. Rise
                                                                measurement.
between the height of the belt girth (where the trousers

are worn) and the inside leg length (SYMCAD, 2000).

       Discussion. Again, the issue for this measure is the location of the waist.

When the waist measure is standardized, it will affect this measure also.

Karla P. Simmons                            49                              A-1 Paper
Table 17. Rise Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models

                                     Rise
                    ImageTwin        Vertical Rise
                    Cyberware        n/a
                    SYMCAD           Body Rise



Crotch Length

       Traditional measurement method. The crotch length is defined as the

measure from the center front waist level through the crotch to the center back

waist level (ASTMb, 1995); the distance between the abdomen at the level of the

preferred landmark of the waist to the preferred landmark on

the back is measured through the crotch to the right of the

genitalia (Gordon, et al, 1989).

       ImageTwin     method. The “crotch length” is the

measurement along the body from the front waist through the

crotch to the back waist. This system allows the user to

define whether a front, back, or full crotch length is needed

([TC2], 1999).

       Cyberware method. This system does not have a            Figure 30. Crotch
                                                                length measurement.
crotch length measure.

       SYMCAD method. This system does not have a crotch length measure.

       Discussion. ImageTwin was specifically designed for use in apparel. In

this research, they were the only system to have a crotch length. The only

standard that included the crotch length is the ASTM 5586 for Women over 55.

Karla P. Simmons                           50                            A-1 Paper
Other standards should include the crotch length also. This is a critical measure

for the appropriate fit of pants, shorts, or variations of each.



Table 18. Crotch Length Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models

                                       Crotch Length
                     ImageTwin         Crotch Length
                     Cyberware         n/a
                     SYMCAD            n/a



Thigh Circumference

       Traditional measurement method. The thigh circumference is defined as

the maximum circumference of the upper leg close to the crotch (ASTMa, 1995;

ASTM, 1999); parallel to the floor (ASTMb, 1995); at the juncture with the buttock

(Gordon, et al, 1989); at the highest thigh position (ISO, 1989).

       Traditional measurement method for mid-thigh circumference. The

horizontal circumference of the thigh measured midway

between the hip and the knee (ISO, 1989; ASTMa, 1995;

ASTM, 1999); parallel to the floor (ASTMb, 1995).

       ImageTwin     method. The “thigh” measure offers

user defined parameters for several choices on defining

the position of the thigh. The system allows for a fixed

location of the search for the thigh. The default uses this

parameter by placing the thigh 2 inches below the crotch.
                                                                   Figure 31. Thigh
You can also program the system to find the largest                circumference
                                                                   measurement.
Karla P. Simmons                             51                               A-1 Paper
Body measurement techniques  a comparison of  three-dimensional body scanning and  physical anthropometric methods
Body measurement techniques  a comparison of  three-dimensional body scanning and  physical anthropometric methods
Body measurement techniques  a comparison of  three-dimensional body scanning and  physical anthropometric methods
Body measurement techniques  a comparison of  three-dimensional body scanning and  physical anthropometric methods
Body measurement techniques  a comparison of  three-dimensional body scanning and  physical anthropometric methods
Body measurement techniques  a comparison of  three-dimensional body scanning and  physical anthropometric methods
Body measurement techniques  a comparison of  three-dimensional body scanning and  physical anthropometric methods
Body measurement techniques  a comparison of  three-dimensional body scanning and  physical anthropometric methods
Body measurement techniques  a comparison of  three-dimensional body scanning and  physical anthropometric methods
Body measurement techniques  a comparison of  three-dimensional body scanning and  physical anthropometric methods
Body measurement techniques  a comparison of  three-dimensional body scanning and  physical anthropometric methods
Body measurement techniques  a comparison of  three-dimensional body scanning and  physical anthropometric methods
Body measurement techniques  a comparison of  three-dimensional body scanning and  physical anthropometric methods
Body measurement techniques  a comparison of  three-dimensional body scanning and  physical anthropometric methods
Body measurement techniques  a comparison of  three-dimensional body scanning and  physical anthropometric methods
Body measurement techniques  a comparison of  three-dimensional body scanning and  physical anthropometric methods
Body measurement techniques  a comparison of  three-dimensional body scanning and  physical anthropometric methods

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Body measurement techniques a comparison of three-dimensional body scanning and physical anthropometric methods

  • 1. BODY MEASUREMENT TECHNIQUES: A COMPARISON OF THREE-DIMENSIONAL BODY SCANNING AND PHYSICAL ANTHROPOMETRIC METHODS By Karla Peavy Simmons Submitted to the TTM Graduate Faculty College of Textiles North Carolina State University in partial fulfillment of the A1 requirement for the Ph.D. degree in Textile Technology and Management Raleigh, North Carolina January 12, 2001
  • 2. Table of Contents Page # LIST OF TABLES vi LIST OF FIGURES viii 1. INTRODUCTION 1 2. THREE-DIMENSIONAL BODY SCANNING TECHNOLOGY 2 2.1 Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation/ImageTwin 4 2.1.1 History 4 2.1.2 ImageTwin systems 5 2.1.3 System design 6 2.2 Cyberware 9 2.2.1 History 9 2.2.2 Cyberware systems 9 2.2.3 Cyberware system design 11 2.3 SYMCAD 13 2.3.1 History 13 2.3.2 SYMCAD system models 13 2.3.3 SYMCAD system design 14 3. TRADITIONAL ANTHROPOMETRY 14 3.1 Historical Practice 14 3.2 Methodology and Instrumentation 16 3.2.1 Methodology 16 3.2.2 Instrumentation 17 3.3 Landmarks 20 4. COMPARISON OF THE TRADITIONAL ANTHROPOMETRICAL 27 METHOD WITH THREE-DIMENSIONAL BODY SCANNING METHODS 4.1 Neck-Midneck 29 4.1.1 Traditional measurement method 29 4.1.2 ImageTwin method 29 4.1.3 Cyberware method 29 4.1.4 SYMCAD method 29 4.1.5 Discussion 29 4.2 Neck-Neckbase 30 4.2.1 Traditional measurement method 30 4.2.2 ImageTwin method 30 4.2.3 Cyberware method 30 Karla P. Simmons ii A-1 Paper
  • 3. Page # 4.2.4 SYMCAD method 30 4.2.5 Discussion 30 4.3 Chest Circumference 31 4.3.1 Traditional measurement method 31 4.3.2 ImageTwin method 31 4.3.3 Cyberware method 31 4.3.4 SYMCAD method 31 4.3.5 Discussion 31 4.4 Bust Circumference 32 4.4.1 Traditional measurement method 32 4.4.2 ImageTwin method 32 4.4.3 Cyberware method 32 4.4.4 SYMCAD method 32 4.4.5 Discussion 32 4.5 Waist-Natural Indentation 33 4.5.1 Traditional measurement method 33 4.5.2 ImageTwin method 33 4.5.3 Cyberware method 34 4.5.4 SYMCAD method 34 4.5.5 Discussion 34 4.6 Waist-Navel (Omphalion) 34 4.6.1 Traditional measurement method 34 4.6.2 ImageTwin method 34 4.6.3 Cyberware method 34 4.6.4 SYMCAD method 35 4.6.5 Discussion 35 4.7 Hip Circumference 35 4.7.1 Traditional measurement method 36 4.7.2 ImageTwin method 36 4.7.3 Cyberware method 36 4.7.4 SYMCAD method 36 4.8 Seat 36 4.8.1 Traditional measurement method 36 4.8.2 ImageTwin method 36 4.8.3 Cyberware method 37 4.8.4 SYMCAD method 37 4.8.5 Discussion 37 4.9 Sleeve Length 37 4.9.1 Traditional measurement method 38 4.9.2 ImageTwin method 38 4.9.3 Cyberware method 38 4.9.4 SYMCAD method 38 4.9.5 Discussion 38 Karla P. Simmons iii A-1 Paper
  • 4. Page # 4.10 Arm Length 38 4.10.1 Traditional measurement method 38 4.10.2 ImageTwin method 39 4.10.3 Cyberware method 39 4.10.4 SYMCAD method 39 4.10.5 Discussion 39 4.11 Inseam 40 4.11.1 Traditional measurement method 40 4.11.2 ImageTwin method 40 4.11.3 Cyberware method 40 4.11.4 SYMCAD method 40 4.11.5 Discussion 40 4.12 Outseam 41 4.12.1 Traditional measurement method 41 4.12.2 ImageTwin method 41 4.12.3 Cyberware method 41 4.12.4 SYMCAD method 42 4.12.5 Discussion 42 4.13 Shoulder Length 42 4.13.1 Traditional measurement method 42 4.13.2 ImageTwin method 42 4.13.3 Cyberware method 42 4.13.4 SYMCAD method 42 4.13.5 Discussion 42 4.14 Across Chest 43 4.14.1 Traditional measurement method 43 4.14.2 ImageTwin method 43 4.14.3 Cyberware method 43 4.14.4 SYMCAD method 43 4.14.5 Discussion 43 4.15 Across Back 44 4.15.1 Traditional measurement method 44 4.15.2 ImageTwin method 44 4.15.3 Cyberware method 44 4.15.4 SYMCAD method 44 4.15.5 Discussion 44 4.16 Back of Neck to Waist Length 45 4.16.1 Traditional measurement method 45 4.16.2 ImageTwin method 45 4.16.3 Cyberware method 45 4.16.4 SYMCAD method 45 4.16.5 Discussion 45 Karla P. Simmons iv A-1 Paper
  • 5. Page # 4.17 Rise 46 4.17.1 Traditional measurement method 46 4.17.2 ImageTwin method 46 4.17.3 Cyberware method 46 4.17.4 SYMCAD method 46 4.17.5 Discussion 46 4.18 Crotch Length 46 4.18.1 Traditional measurement method 47 4.18.2 ImageTwin method 47 4.18.3 Cyberware method 47 4.18.4 SYMCAD method 47 4.18.5 Discussion 47 4.19 Thigh Circumference 47 4.19.1 Traditional measurement method 48 4.19.2 Traditional measurement method for mid-thigh circumference 48 4.19.3 ImageTwin method 48 4.19.4 Cyberware method 48 4.19.5 SYMCAD method 48 4.19.6 Discussion 48 4.20 Bicep Circumference 49 4.20.1 Traditional measurement method 49 4.20.2 ImageTwin method 49 4.20.3 Cyberware method 49 4.20.4 SYMCAD method 49 4.20.5 Discussion 50 4.21 Wrist Circumference 50 4.21.1 Traditional measurement method 50 4.21.2 ImageTwin method 50 4.21.3 Cyberware method 50 4.21.4 SYMCAD method 50 4.21.5 Discussion 50 5. CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS 51 5.1 Conclusions 51 5.2 Recommendations 54 6. REFERENCES 55 7. APPENDIX 63 7.1 Appendix A 7.2 Appendix B Karla P. Simmons v A-1 Paper
  • 6. List of Tables Page # 1. Current major scanning systems 4 2. Comparison of ImageTwin scanner models: 2T4 and 2T4s 6 3. Comparison of Cyberware scanner models: WB4 and WBX 11 4. Summary of anthropometric tools and usages 19 5. Landmarks terms and definitions 21 6. Mid-neck and neckbase terms used in selected scanner models 31 7. Chest and bust terms used in selected scanner models 33 8. Waist-natural indentation and waist-navel terms used in selected 35 scanner models 9. Hip circumference and seat terms used in selected scanner 37 models 10. Sleeve length and arm length terms used in selected scanner 39 models 11. Inseam terms used in selected scanner models 41 12. Outseam terms used in selected scanner models 42 13. Shoulder length terms used in selected scanner models 43 14. Across chest terms used in selected scanner models 43 15. Across back terms used in selected scanner models 44 16. Back of neck to waist length terms used in selected scanner 45 models 17. Rise terms used in selected scanner models 46 18. Crotch length terms used in selected scanner models 47 19. Thigh circumference terms used in selected scanner models 49 Karla P. Simmons vi A-1 Paper
  • 7. Page # 20. Bicep circumference terms used in selected scanner models 50 21. Wrist circumference terms used in selected scanner models 51 22. Summary of traditional measurement terms compared to 53 selected scanner model terms Karla P. Simmons vii A-1 Paper
  • 8. List of Figures Page # 1. Patterned grating in the ImageTwin scanner 7 2. Booth layout of the ImageTwin scanner 7 3. 3D point cloud 8 4. Segmentation of the body 8 5. Printout available to subject 8 6. Cyberware 3D whole body scanner: Model WB4 10 7. Cyberware 3D whole body scanner: Model WBX 10 8. Cyberware scanning positions 12 9. Scanning booth of the SYMCAD TurboFlash/3D 13 10. Standard anthropometric tools: (a) anthropometer, (b) calipers, 18 (c) sliding compass, (d) tape measure 11. Diagram of principle planes used in anthropometry and terms 19 of orientation 12. Anatomical points used in locating body landmarks on the front 24 of the body 13. Anatomical points used in locating body landmarks on the back 25 of the body 14. Anatomical points used in locating body landmarks on the side 26 of the body Karla P. Simmons viii A-1 Paper
  • 9. BODY MEASUREMENT TECHNIQUES: A COMPARISON OF THREE- DIMENSIONAL BODY SCANNING AND PHYSICAL ANTHROPOMETRIC METHODS Introduction “No one – not even the most brilliant scientist alive today – really knows where science is taking us. We are aboard a train which is gathering speed, racing down a track on which there are an unknown number of switches leading to unknown destinations. No single scientist is in the engine cab and there may be demons at the switch. Most of society is in the caboose looking backward.” (Lapp, Ralph E., The New Priesthood. New York: Harper & Row, 1961, p.29) In 1961, Ralph Lapp, a scientist turned writer, made these comments about the unknown directions where science would lead us. Little did he know that just a few years later, a new technology would be developed that would revolutionize many industries by the end of the 21st century. This new technology is three-dimensional (3D) non-contact body scanning. Although body scanning applications have been used in many areas of study, the apparel industry is anxiously researching its usage for apparel design and the mass customization of garments. A major frustration for consumer shopping of apparel is finding garments that are comfortable and fit properly (Goldsberry & Reich, 1989). This frustration is caused by the current sizing system, which was taken from an anthropometric study conducted in 1941. Women are shaped differently today than six decades ago. New studies are needed to record anthropometric data of today’s culture. Karla P. Simmons 1 A-1 Paper
  • 10. Three-dimensional body scanning is capable of extracting an infinite number of types of data. However, a problem exists in the consistency of measuring techniques between scanners. Among the several scanners that are currently available, significant variance exists in how each captures specific body measurements. Until the data capture process of specific body measurements can be standardized or communicated among scanning systems, this island of technology cannot be utilized for its maximum benefit within the apparel industry. This paper will to a) give a brief description of several major body scanners, b) discuss traditional anthropometry with regards to landmarks and body dimension data, and c) present a comparison of traditional anthropometry with the measurement techniques for each scanner. Three-Dimensional Body Scanning Technology When measuring a large number of locations on the human body, the most desirable method would be one of non-contact. Before the turn of the century, surveyors were using non-contact measurement from a distance to determine the shape of the earth’s surface (West, 1993). Their system of triangulation would become the basis of modern methods whereas a light sensing device would replace the theodolite1. In 1964, a full-scale male dummy was designed with anthropometric measuring that utilized a simple three- dimensional technique (Lovesey). Also in 1964, Vietorisz used a light source and an arrangement of photo detectors to measure a person’s silhouette. 1 A theodolite is a surveyor’s instrument for measuring horizontal and vertical angles (Webster’s, 1987). Karla P. Simmons 2 A-1 Paper
  • 11. In 1979, Ito used an arrangement of lights with a collection of photo detectors, which were rotated around the body being measured. A similar system in principle was developed by Takada and Escki (1981), but with a different setup of lights and photo detectors. In 1984, Halioua, Krishnamurphy, Liu, and Chiang improved upon a method by Meadows, Johnson, and Allen (1970), known today as the Moire` fringe method. They were able to determine the body contour height of single points using two small independent gratings of a light source and camera. All of these systems were only capable of measuring one side of the body at a time. It wasn’t until 1985 that Magnant produced a system which used a horizontal sheet of light to completely surround the body. Framework for the system carried the projectors and cameras needed that would scan the body from head to toe. Systems utilizing lasers were also being developed during this same period of the late 1970s and early 1980s. In 1977, Clerget, Germain, and Kryze illuminated their measured object with a scanning laser beam. Arridge, Moss, Linney, and James (1985) used 2 vertical slices of laser along with a television camera to measure the shapes of faces for orthodontic and maxillo-facial2 surgery. At this same time, Addleman and Addleman (1985) developed a scanning laser beam system which is marketed today as Cyberware. Other scanning systems have also been developed in the last fifteen years. A list of the current major scanning systems can be found in Table 1. 2 Maxillo-facial is the upper jaw area of the face (Webster’s, 1987). Karla P. Simmons 3 A-1 Paper
  • 12. Table I. Current Major Scanning Systems Scanning System System Type Hamamatsu Light Loughborough Light ImageTwin Light Wicks and Wilson Light TELMAT Light Turing Light PulsScanning Light Cognitens Light Cyberware Laser TECMATH Laser Victronic Laser Hamano Laser Polhemus Laser 3DScanner Laser Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation (TC2)/ImageTwin History. In 1981, a concept generated from the National Science Foundation was formed into Tailored Clothing Technology Corporation. Their mission was to conduct Research and Development activities, demonstrate technology and provide education programs for the apparel industry. In 1985, they became Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation [(TC2)]. (TC2) is located in Cary, North Carolina where their teaching factory is visited by thousands of industry representatives each year. One of the research and development products invented by (TC2) has been a 3-Dimensional whole body scanner and body measurement system Karla P. Simmons 4 A-1 Paper
  • 13. (BMS). Work on the system began back in 1991. In 1998, the first 3D scanner model, the 3T6, was made available to the public. The first four systems to be delivered were to Levi Strauss & Company, San Francisco, the U.S. Navy, North Carolina State University College of Textiles, and Clarity Fit Technology of Minneapolis. The (TC2) scanner was the first scanner to be developed with the initial focus for the clothing industry. In order for the American apparel industry to be more competitive, (TC2) saw the need for the drive toward mass customization. 3 A move toward made-to-measure clothing necessitated fundamental technology that would make the acquisition of essential body measurements quick, private, and accurate for the customer. ImageTwin systems. In July of 2000, (TC2) and Truefinds.com, Inc. announced the joint venture formation of ImageTwin . The (TC2) scanner will now be known as the ImageTwin Digital Body Measurement System ([TC2], 2000). The model 3T6 is named by the number of towers (3) and the number of sensors (6) that are used for the scanning process. New models have been designed that have the same basic function but a smaller footprint: the 2T4 and 2T4s. The 2T4 and 2T4s have 2 towers with 4 sensors. The “s” in 2T4s stands for short which denotes a smaller layout than the 2T4 (David Bruner, personal communication, 2000). A comparison of the 2T4 and 2T4s scanner models is shown in Table 2. 3 Mass Customization is a term that was coined by Stan Davis in 1987 in Future Perfect. In general , it is the delivery of custom made goods and services to a mass market. Karla P. Simmons 5 A-1 Paper
  • 14. Table 2. Comparison of ImageTwin Scanner Models, 2T4 and 2T4s Hardware 2T4 2T4s System Dimensions Height 7.9 ft. 7.9 ft. Width 5 ft. 5 ft. Length 20.5 ft. 13.5 ft. Weight 600 lbs. 600 lbs. Field of view Height 7.2 ft. 7.2 ft. Width 3.9 ft. 3.9 ft. Depth 2.6 ft. 3.6 ft. Setup time 4 hrs. 4 hrs. Calibration time 15 mins. 15 mins. Portability Yes Yes Cost $65,000 $65,000 System design. The ImageTwin BMS utilizes phase measurement profilometry (PMP) where structured white light is employed. The concept was first introduced by M. Halioua in 1986 (Halioua & Hsin-Chu, 1989). The PMP method employs white light to impel a curved, 2-dimenional patterned grating on the surface of the body. An example of this grating can be found in Figure 1. The pattern that is projected is captured by an area array charge-coupled device (CCD) camera. Karla P. Simmons 6 A-1 Paper
  • 15. Figure 1. Patterned grating in the ImageTwin scanner. The design of this system allows for extensive coverage of the entire human body. After experimentation, it was determined that more detail and coverage is required for the front surface of the body than on the back surface (Hurley, Demers, Wulpurn, & Grindon 1997). The 3T6 has 2 front views that have a 60 degree angle and a straight on back view (see Figure 2). Figure 2. Booth layout of the ImageTwin scanner. With these angles, overlap between the views is imparted where a high degree of detail is needed for high slope regions. Minimal overlap is needed on Karla P. Simmons 7 A-1 Paper
  • 16. smooth surfaces. Therefore, for height coverage, six views are utilized: three upper and three lower. Each system utilizes six stationary surface sensors. A single sensor captures an area segment of the surface. When all sensors are combined, an incorporated surface with critical area coverage of the body is formed for the use in the production of apparel. Four images per sensor per grating are attained. This information is used to calculate the 3D data points. The transitional yield of the PMP method is a data cloud for all six views. Once the image is obtained, over 400,000 processed data points are determined (Figure 3). Then segmentation of the body occurs and the measurement extraction transpires (Figure 4). The specific measurement output is predetermined by the user. A printout is available with a body image and the measurements (Figure 5). Figure 3. 3D point Figure 4. Segmentation Figure 5. Printout cloud of the body available to subject Karla P. Simmons 8 A-1 Paper
  • 17. Cyberware History. Another leading three-dimensional body scanner manufacturer is Cyberware. Incorporated in December 1982, the company’s early work consisted of digitizing and model shop services. More than two years was spent developing the rapid 3D digitizing that they are now known for today. Currently, Cyberware centers on manufacturing various 3D scanners with continuing research and development in custom digitizing. They are one of the leaders in research concerning 3D scanning for garment design and fitting, anthropometrics, and ergonomics. Cyberware is privately funded (Cyberware, 2000a). The idea for whole body scanning started at Cyberware when anthropologists at Wright-Patterson Air Force Base began deliberations on imaging in 1991. Two years later, a formal proposal was published with an order for a system in March of 1994. Delivery of the system was in August 1995 (Addleman, 1997). Since then, Cyberware has sold scanners all over the world (Cyberware, 2000a). Cyberware systems. Although Cyberware has several different types of scanners, they currently have only two models in the whole-body scanner line, the WB4 and WBX. The WB4 is a color whole-body 3D scanner, the goal of which is to obtain an accurate computer model in one pass of the scanner (Cyberware, 2000b). The subject stands on the scanner platform while the scanner pans down the length of the entire body (see Figure 6). The WBX is an enclosed whole body 3D scanner (Cyberware, 2000c). It was custom designed for use in scanning military recruits for uniform issue (ARN, 2000)(Figure 7.) The Karla P. Simmons 9 A-1 Paper
  • 18. systems do have similarities. Table 3 best illustrates the features of both the WB4 and the WBX scanners. Figure 6. Cyberware 3D whole body scanner: Model WB4. Figure 7. Cyberware 3D whole body scanner: Model WBX. Karla P. Simmons 10 A-1 Paper
  • 19. Table 3. Comparison of WB4 and WBX Scanners WB4 WBX Field of view Diameter 120cm (47”) Height 200cm (79”) Scan heads 4 4 Cameras 4 4 Mirrors 4 0 Scan cycle time 40 secs 25 secs Cost $350K $150K Booth size Width 360cm (144”) 244cm (96”) Height 292cm (117”) 244cm (96”) Diameter 300cm (120”) 244cm (96”) Weight 450Kg (992lbs) Sources: Cyberware, 2000b; Cyberware, 2000c; ARN, 2000. Cyberware system design. Since the WBX is still in the prototype stage of development and is currently customized for military function, the discussion will focus on the WB4 system in this paper. The scanner consists of two towers with a round platform in between them. Each tower has a rail with a motor attached to move the two scanning heads. The four heads on the WB4 are separated by 75 and 105 degree angles. This layout of the heads gives the appropriate overlap for maximum coverage (Addleman, 1997). Previous tests concluded that the highest surface area is derived from the subject facing in the middle of the Head 2 and Head 3 position which is separated by 75 degrees (Brunsman, Daanen, and Robinette, 1997) (see Figure 8). With the subject standing on the Karla P. Simmons 11 A-1 Paper
  • 20. platform, the scanning heads start at the subject’s head, and move down to scan the entire body. A typical scan is less than 30 seconds and is often completed in as little as 17 seconds (Cyberware, 2000a). He 2 ad d ea 1 H 105 75 75 105 0 H ad ea d He 3 Source: Brunsman, Daanen, & Robinette, 1997, p.268. Figure 8. Cyberware scanning positions. Each one of the scanning heads consists of a light source and a detector. Laser diodes4 are the source of light, which project a level surface of light onto a subject. This laser line is created by tubular lenses and focusing optics. A CCD, coupled charge device, sees the line created by the laser crossing the subject. The image is reflected using mirrors to reduce the camera size. Electronic circuitry distributes the raw data to the workstation for the scanned points (Addleman, 1997). The WB4 can produce a cloud of over 100,000 3D data points from the human body surface (Daanen, Taylor, Brunsman, & Nurre, 1997). These points 4 According to Webster’s Dictionary (1987), a diode is a 2-electrode electron tube having a negative terminal (cathode) and a positive terminal (anode) of an electrolytic cell. Karla P. Simmons 12 A-1 Paper
  • 21. are available within seconds for use. The four separate camera views are illustrated and combined into one data set where redundant and overlapping data are removed. For subjects larger than the maximum allowable dimensions for the scanner (79” x 49”), two or more scans can be combined for a complete 3D model (Cyberware, 2000b). SYMCAD History. In 1992, a French based company, TELMAT Industrie, developed a computerized 3D body measuring system called SYMCAD. The System for Measuring and Creating Anthropometric Database (SYMCAD) was first used in January 1995 by the French Navy for uniform issue (Financial Times, 1998). SYMCAD systems. The range of TELMAT products fall into several categories. In the textile area, the only product they offer is the SYMCAD. They refer to this system as “The Electronic Master Tailor”, “the SYMCAD Turbo Flash/3D”, and “a Computerized 3D Body Measuring System” (TELMAT 2000; L’LALSACE, 1999; Financial Times, 1998). See Figure 9 for a representation of the SYMCAD scanner. Figure 9. Scanning booth of the SYMCAD Turbo Flash/3D. Karla P. Simmons 13 A-1 Paper
  • 22. SYMCAD system design. The scanning system consists of a small enclosed room with an illuminated wall, a camera, and a computer. The subject enters the booth, removes their clothing, and stands in their undergarments in front of the illuminated wall. Three different poses of the subject are photographed: facing the camera with arms slightly apart from the body, from the side straight on5, and facing the wall (Financial Times, 1998). These 3D images are processed and appear on the computer screen. Over 70 measurement calculations are made from these computerized images. Traditional Anthropometry Historical Practice No two people are ever alike in all of their measurable characteristics. This uniqueness has been the object of curiosity and research for over 200 years. In the past, different individuals have set out to express quantitatively the form of the body. This technique was termed anthropometry. The definition used by Kroemer, Kroemer, & Kroemer-Elbert (1986) is: Anthropometry describes the dimensions of the human body (p.1). The name is derived from anthropos, meaning human, and metrikos, meaning of or pertaining to measuring (Roebuck, Jr., 1995). The first individual to mark the beginning of anthropometry was Quelet in 1870, with his desire to 5 Both the front and side views adopt anthropometric poses (World Clothing Manufacturer, 1996). The anthropometric position assumes the body is standing upright, and at “attention” with the arms hanging by the sides slightly apart from the body, palms of the hands facing the front, and the feet facing directly forward (Croney, 1971). Karla P. Simmons 14 A-1 Paper
  • 23. obtain measurements of the average man according to Gauss’ Law6 (Anthropometry, 2000). It wasn’t until the 1950s that anthropometrics became a recognized discipline. Settings for usage of anthropometry include vehicles, work sites, equipment, airplane cockpits, and clothing (CAD Modelling, 1992; Czaja, 1984; Hertzberg, 1955; Roe, 1993; Roebuck, Kroemer, & Thomson, 1975; Sanders & Shaw, 1985). For years, anthropometry has been used in national sizing surveys as an indicator of health status (Marks, Habicht, & Mueller, 1989). Assessment of the reliability of the measures has been the topic of research for just as long (Bray, Greenway, & Molitch, 1978; Cameron, 1986; Foster, Webber, & Sathanur, 1980; Johnston, Hamill, & Lemshow, 1972; Malina, Hamill, & Lemshow, 1972; Malina, Hamill, & Lemshow, 1974; Marshall, 1937; Martroll, Habicht, & Yarbrough, 1975; Meredith, 1936). Reliability is defined operationally as the extent to which a measure is reproducible over time (Cook & Campbell, 1979; Snedecor & Cochran, 1980). The reliability of a measurement has components of precision and dependability (Mueller & Martorell, 1988). Of the two components, precision is the most important determinate of reliability (Marks, Habicht, & Mueller, 1989; Mueller & Martrell, 1988). However, reliability matters are often overlooked in 6 Kal Friedrich Guass (1777-1855) was a German scientist and mathematician known for a relation known as Gauss's Law (Hyperphysics, 2000). Karla P. Simmons 15 A-1 Paper
  • 24. problem oriented research (Gordon & Bradtmiller, 1992) because of the impact of measurement error. Observer error is the most troublesome source of anthropometric error. It includes imprecision in landmark location, subject positioning, and instrument applications. This error can even be accentuated by the use of multiple observers even when they are trained by the same individual and work closely together (Bennett & Osbourne, 1986; Jamison & Zegura, 1974; Utermohle & Zegura, 1982; Utermohle, Zegura, & Heathcote, 1983;). Error limits are usually set in advance of data collection while measurer performance is monitored throughout the process against the pre-set standards (Cameron, 1984; Gordon, Bradtmiller, Churchill, Clauser, McConville, Tebbetts, & Walker, 1989; Himes, 1989; Johnston & Martorell, 1988; Malina, Hamill, & Lemshow, 1973). Observer errors in anthropometry are not random and are not unusual (Bennett & Osborne, 1986; Gordan & Bradtmiller, 1992; Jamison & Zegura, 1974). Therefore, traditional methods of measuring bodies need a great deal of improvement. Methodology & Instrumentation Methodology. Classical anthropometric data provides information on static dimensions of the human body in standard postures (Kroemer, Kroemer, & Kroemer-Elbert, 1986). The science of anthropometry is one of great precision. Experienced workers in the field are the best to utilize this technique (Montagu, 1960). Most measurements taken of the subject are taken in the most desirable position of standing. However, there are a few measures which warrant Karla P. Simmons 16 A-1 Paper
  • 25. exception. Measurements are taken, whenever possible in the morning. The human body tends to decrease in height during the day and is often more relaxed in the morning (Montagu, 1960). It is preferable to have the subject completely unclothed or with as little clothing as possible. Kromer, Kroemer, & Kroemer-Elbert (1986) explain in detail the standard method of measuring a subject: For most measurements, the subject’s body is placed in a defined upright straight posture, with the body segments at either 180, 0, or 90 degrees to each other. For example, the subject may be required to “stand erect; heels together; buttocks, shoulder blades, and back of head touching the wall; arms vertical, fingers straight…”: This is close to the so-called “anatomical position” used in anatomy. The head is positioned in the “Frankfurt Plane”; With the pupils on the same horizontal level, the right tragion (approximated by the ear hole), and the lowest point of the right orbit (eye socket) are also placed on the same horizontal plane. When measures are taken on a seated subject, the (flat and horizontal) surfaces of seat and foot support are so arranged that the thighs are horizontal, the lower legs vertical and the feet flat on their horizontal support. The subject is nude, or nearly so, and unshod (p.6). A diagram of the principle planes used in anthropometry and the terms of orientation are given in Figure 11. Instrumentation. The same anthropometric instruments have been used since Richer first used calipers in 1890 (Anthropometry, 2000). Simple, quick, non-invasive tools include a weight scale, camera, measuring tape, anthropometer, spreading caliper, sliding compass, and head spanner. Table 4 summarizes the tools and their uses. Figure 10 shows the tools. Karla P. Simmons 17 A-1 Paper
  • 26. Table 4. Summary of Anthropometric Tools and Usages Anthropometric Tool Usage Weight Scale For determining weight Camera For photographing subjects Measuring Tape For measuring circumferences and curvatures Anthropometer For measuring height and various traverse diameters of the body Spreading Caliper For measuring diameters Sliding Compass For measuring short diameters such as those of the nose, ears, hand, etc. Head Spanner For determining the height of the head b d c a Figure 10. Standard anthropometric tools: (a) anthropometer, (b) calipers, (c) sliding compass, (d) tape measure. Karla P. Simmons 18 A-1 Paper
  • 27. Lateral Medial (Away from (Middle of the body) the body) Lateral (Away from the body) YZ Posterior (Back of the body) Proximal (nearer to XZ Superior the torso YZ (Toward the skeleton) head) Anterior (Front of the body) XY Transverse plane Distal Distal (further from the torso skeleton) XY Sagittal plane Coronal plane Inferior (Away from the head) Figure 11. Diagram of principle planes used in anthropometry and the terms of orientation.7 7 Medial suggests near the midline. Lateral suggests farther away from the midline. Posterior suggests at the back of the body. Anterior suggests at the front of the body. Superior suggests toward the head. Inferior suggests away from the head. The Median plane passes through the center of the body dividing it into a right and left half. The Sagittal plane passes through the body parallel with the median plane. The Coronal plane passes through the body from side to side at right angles to the sagittal plane. The Traverse plane is any plane at right angles to the long axis of the body (Bryan, Davies, & Middlemiss, 1996; Tortora, 1986). Karla P. Simmons 19 A-1 Paper
  • 28. Landmarks As stated earlier, the correct identification of body landmarks is one of the key elements in observer error in the collection of anthropometric data. In order to have agreement as to the body measurements recorded in an anthropometric based study, uniformity must be achieved as to what common points on the body must be identified. These points are referred to as landmarks. A landmark is an anatomical structure used as a point of orientation in locating other structures (Websters, 1987). Most people have never had a formal education in anatomy to be able to identify specific landmarks. Even though measurers are usually trained in how to measure subjects for a study, the process is still very difficult and time consuming. In a 1988 anthropometric survey of US Army personnel, four hours were required to physically landmark, measure, and record the data of one subject (Paquette, 1996). The first step in traditional landmarking is to mark certain places on the body with a non-smearing, skin pencil (O’Brien & Sheldon, 1941) or skin-safe, washable ink (Roebuck, 1995). A small cross verses a dot is usually used as the marking symbol because the intersection of the lines is easier to read. The traditional methods in determining and placing landmarks are given below. Diagrams of the landmarks are given in Figures 12, 13, and 14. Karla P. Simmons 20 A-1 Paper
  • 29. Table 5. Landmark Terms and Definitions Landmark Symbol Definition Abdominal A Viewed from the side, it is the measure of the Extension greatest protrusion from one imaginary side seam to (Front High-Hip) the other imaginary side seam usually taken at the high hip level (ASTM, 1999); taken approximately 3 inches below the waist, parallel to the floor (ASTM, Figure 14 1995) Acromion B The most prominent point on the upper edge of the (Shoulder Point) acromial process of the shoulder blade (scapula)[T] as determined by palpatation (feeling) (Jones, 1929; Figure 12 McConville, 1979). Ankle C The joint between the foot and lower leg; the (Malleolus) projection of the end of the major bones of the lower leg, fibula and tibia, that is prominent, taken at the minimum circumference (McConville, 1979; O’Brien & Figures 12, Sheldon, 1941; ASTM, 1999). 13, 14 Armpit D Points at the lower (inferior) edge determined by (Axilla) placing a straight edge horizontally and as high as possible into the armpit without compressing the skin and marking the front and rear points or the hollow Figures 12, part under the arm at the shoulder (McConville, 1979; 13 ASTM, 1999). *See Scye. Bicep Point E Point of maximum protrusion of the bicep muscle, the brachii, as viewed when elbow is flexed 90 degrees, fist clenched and bicep strongly contracted (Gordon, Churchhill, Clauser, Bradtmiller, McConville, Figure 12 Tebbetts, & Walker, 1989; ASTM, 1999). Bust Point F Most prominent protrusion of the bra cup (Gordon, et.al, 1989, McConville, 1979; O’Brien & Sheldon, Figure 14 1941); apex of the breast (ASTM, 1999). Buttock G Level of maximum protrusion as determined by visual (Seat) Figure 14 inspection (McConville, 1979; Gordon, et.al, 1989) Calf H Part of the leg between the knee and ankle at (Gastrocnemius) Figures 12, maximum circumference (McConville, 1979; ASTM, 13, 14 1999). Cervicale I At the base of the neck [R] portion of the spine and (Vertebra located at the tip of the spinous process of the 7th Prominous) cervical vertebra determined by palpatation, often found by bending the neck or head forward (McConville, 1979; Jones, 1929; Gordon, et.al, 1989; Figures 13, O’Brien & Sheldon, 1941; ASTM, 1999). 14 Karla P. Simmons 21 A-1 Paper
  • 30. Landmark Symbol Definition Collarbone Point J Upper (superior) points of the shoulder (lateral) ends (Clavical Point) Figure 12 of the clavical (Gordon, et.al, 1989). Crotch Point K Body area adjunct to the highest point (vertex) of the Figures 12, included angle between the legs (ASTM, 1999). 13 Crown L Top of the head (ASTM, 1999; O’Brien & Sheldon, Figure 12 1941). Elbow M When arm is bent, the farthermost (lateral) point of (Olecranon) the olecranon which is the projection of the end of the inner most bone in the lower arm (ulna) (O’Brien & Sheldon, 1941); the joint between the upper and Figures 12, lower arm (ASTM, 1999). 13, 14 Gluteal Furrow N The crease formed at the juncture of the thigh and Point Figures 13, buttock (McConville, 1979; Gordon, et. Al, 1989). 14 Hip Bone O Outer bony prominence of the upper end of the thigh (Greater bone (femer) (ASTM, 1999; O’Brien & Sheldon, Trochanter) Figures 12, 1941). 14 Iliocristale P Highest palpable point of the iliac crest of the pelvis, ½ the distance between the front (anterior) and back Figures 12, (posterior) upper (superior) iliac spine (Gordon, et.al, 14 1989; Jones, 1929). Kneecap Q Upper and lower borders of the kneecap (patella) located by palpatation (Gordon, et.al, 1989; Figures 12, McConville, 1979); joint between the upper and lower 14 leg (ASTM, 1999). Neck R Front (anterior) and side (lateral) points at the base of the neck; points on each cervical and upper borders of neck ends of right and left clavicles [J] (O’Brien & Figures 12, Sheldon, 1941; Gordon, et.al, 1989). 13 Infrathyroid S The bottom (inferior), most prominent point in the (Adam’s Apple) middle of the thyroid cartilage found in the center Figure 14 front of the neck (Gordon, et.al, 1989). Shoulder Blade T Large, triangular, flat bones situated in the back part (Scapula) of the chest (thorax) between the 2nd and 7th ribs Figures 13, (Totora, 1986; Bryan, Davies, & Middlemiss, 1996). 14 Scye U Points at the folds of the juncture of the upperarm and torso associated with a set-in sleeve of a garment (Gordon, et.al, 1989; McConville, 1979; O’Brien & Sheldon,1941). *See Armpit. Karla P. Simmons 22 A-1 Paper
  • 31. Landmark Symbol Definition Top of the V Bottom most (inferior) point of the jugular notch of the Breastbone breastbone (sternum) (Gordon, et. al, 1989; Jones, (Suprasternal) Figure 12 1929). Tenth Rib W Lower edge point of the lowest rib at the bottom of the rib cage (Gordon, et. al, 1989; O’Brien & Sheldon, Figures 12, 1941). 14 7th Thoracic X The 7th vertebra of 12 of the thoracic type which Vertebra covers from the neck to the lower back (Totora, Figure 13 1986). Waist (Natural Y Taken at the lower edge of the 10th rib [W] by indentation) palpatation (O’Brien & Sheldon, 1941); point of greatest indentation on the profile of the torso or ½ the distance between the 10th rib [W] and iliocristale [P] landmarks (Gordon, et.al, 1989); location between the lowest rib [W] and hip [O] identified by bending Figure 13 the body to the side (ASTM, 1999). Waist Z Center of navel (umbilicus) (Gordon, et. al, 1989; (Omphalion) Figure 14 Jones, 1929). Wrist (Carpus) AA Joint between the lower arm and hand (ASTM, 1999); Distal ends (toward the fingers) of the ulna (the inner most bone) and radius (the outer most bone) of the Figures 12, lower arm (McConville, 1979; Gordon, et. al, 1989). 13 Karla P. Simmons 23 A-1 Paper
  • 32. [L] Crown Neck [R] Collarbone Point [J] (Clavical Point) Shoulder Point (Acromion) [B] Top of Breastbone [V] (Suprasternal) Bicep Armpit Point [E] [D] (Axilla) Iliocristale [P] Elbow [M] (Olecranon) Hip Bone (Greater [O] Trochanter) Tenth [W] Rib Wrist (Carpus) [AA] Crotch [K] Point Calf (Gastrocnemius) [H] Kneecap [Q] (Patella) Ankle (Malleolus) [C] Figure 12. Anatomical points used in locating body landmarks on the front of the body. Karla P. Simmons 24 A-1 Paper
  • 33. [R] Neck Cervicale (7th Cervical [I] Vertebra) 7th Thoracic [X] Vertebra Shoulder Blades (Scapula) [T] Waist [Y] (Natural Armpit Indentation) (Axilla) [D] Wrist Elbow [AA] (Carpus) (Olecranon) [M] Gluteal Furrow Crotch Point [N] [K] Point Calf (Gastrocnemius) [H] Ankle [C] (Malleolus) Figure 13. Anatomical points used in locating body landmarks on the back of the body. Karla P. Simmons 25 A-1 Paper
  • 34. Adam’s Apple Cervical (Infrathyroid) [S] (7th Cerival Vertebra) [I] Bust Point [F] Shoulder Blade [T] (Scapula) Elbow (Olecranon) [M] [W] Tenth Rib Waist (Omphalion) [Z] [G] Buttock Iliocristale [P] Gluteal Furrow Abdominal [N] Point Extension [A] Hip Bone Calf (Greater [O] [H] (Gatrocnemius) Trochanter) Kneecap Ankle (Patella) [Q] [C] (Malleolus) Figure 14. Anatomical points used in locating body landmarks on the side of the body. Karla P. Simmons 26 A-1 Paper
  • 35. Comparison of the Traditional Anthropometrical Method With 3D Body Scanning Methods Simple anthropometric methods using measuring tapes and calipers are still being utilized to measure the human body. The methods are time consuming and often not accurate. With the development of three-dimensional body scanning, this technology allows for the extraction of body measurements in seconds. It also allows consistent measurements. However, there are several problems that exist with the adoption of this technology. One such issue is the comparability of measuring techniques between the scanners. Among the growing number of scanners that are currently available, significant variance exists in how each scanner captures specific body measurements. Until the data capture process of these measurements can be standardized or, at the very least, communicated among the scanning systems, this technology cannot be utilized for its maximum benefit within the apparel industry. A second problem is the unwillingness of some scanner companies to share information about their scanning process. Some companies will give how the data capture occurs, how and what landmarks are used, and general information about their measurement extraction. However, the real proprietary information is in the mathematic/algebraic algorithms that are used. Almost all scanning companies are keeping this secret, which is understandable since this might be their competitive advantage. When these particular scanning companies are questioned about their data capturing methods, they simply give a standard answer of “we follow the ISO standards” or a similar statement. These Karla P. Simmons 27 A-1 Paper
  • 36. are the kinds of attitudes that cause barriers to be built, which could inhibit the growth of this technology. Research of this comparative nature should enable 3D scanner companies to see the importance of their support in order to promote adoption of their technologies. A third problem with body scanning technology is that there are no standards, published or unpublished, on the interpretation of measurements or measurement terms. Current standards for body and garment dimensions include those established by the Association of Standards and Testing Materials (ASTM) and the International Standards Organization (ISO). The predominant standard for measurements taken for the military today in their issue of clothing is the 1988 study of U.S. Army personnel by Gordon, Bradtmiller, Churchhill, Clouser, McConville, Tebbetts, and Walker (1989). Three-dimensional body scanning brings to the forefront issues concerning these current standards. Most current standards require palpatation, or touching of the human body, or the bending of body parts to find appropriate landmarks for the needed measurements. Most scanners are intended to be non-contact so that the privacy of the individual being scanned can be protected. If we were to use the current standards to define the measuring process in 3D scanning, they just will not work. New standards are needed that will work for 3D scanners on a global basis. A fourth problem is the need of some scanners to require landmarking. Manually identifying landmarks is time consuming and, usually, full of error. Landmarking also violates the privacy of the individual. A human must come in contact with the subject’s skin in order to find the landmark and to mark it. On Karla P. Simmons 28 A-1 Paper
  • 37. the other side, another issue is that scanners that do landmarking automatically are most times making an educated guess as to the exact location of that landmark. Without being able to touch the subject’s skin, absolute identification cannot be achieved. In this study, 17 measurements were chosen that were considered critical in the initial design of well fitting garments. These measures included midneck/neckbase, chest/bust, waist by natural indentation/waist by navel, hips/seat, sleeve length/arm length, inseam, outseam, shoulder length, across back, across chest, back of neck to waist, rise, crotch length, thigh circumference, bicep circumference, and wrist circumference. For each of the 17 measurements, the method of data capture is described below for three different scanners: ImageTwin , Cyberware, and SYMCAD. Neck-Midneck Traditional measurement method. The midneck is defined as the circumference of the neck approximately 25mm (1 inch) above the neck base (ASTMa,1995; ASTMb, 1995; ASTM, 1999). The girth of the neck measured 2cm below the Adam’s apple and at the level of the 7th cervical vertebra (ISO, 1981; ISO, 1989; National Bureau of Standards (NBS), 1971). The plane is perpendicular to the long axis of the body (McConville, 1979; Gordon, et al, 1979). ImageTwin method. In this system, the mid-neck measure is referred to as the “collar”. It is measured by Karla P. Simmons 29 A-1 Paper
  • 38. Cyberware method. The “neck circumference” measure is taken at the collar level. It is the smallest circumference of points that pass through the center of the Adam’s Apple. It often lies on or near a plane at varying offsets and tilt angles (Steven Paquette, personal communication, December 1, Figure 15. Midneck 2000). measurement. SYMCAD method. The “neck girth” is the perimeter of the neck that is the smallest circumference measured from the 7th cervical vertebra (SYMCAD, 2000). Discussion. For the midneck measure, the first issue of discussion is that the current standards are not in agreement as to the proper method of measurement. About 25 mm above the neckbase and 2 cm below the Adam’s apple can vary widely between individuals. Secondly, men have an Adam’s apple but women do not. The ISO and NBS definitions seem not to be appropriate for women. Thirdly, the terms used for the midneck are not clear. The midneck measure is used as the collar measurement in men’s shirts. ImageTwin recognizes this usage by calling their measure “collar”. However, Cyberware and SYMCAD refer to their midneck as neck circumference and neck girth. Karla P. Simmons 30 A-1 Paper
  • 39. Neck-Neckbase Traditional measurement method. The neckbase is defined as the circumference of the neck taken just over the cervical at the back and at the top of the collarbone in the front (ISO, 1989; ASTMa, 1995; ASTM, 1999; NBS, 1971; NBS, 1972). ImageTwin method. The neckbase is the “neck” measurement in this system. It is the circumference measured right at the base of the neck following the contours. It is not parallel to the floor (Ken Harrison, personal communication, September, 1999). Cyberware method. Cyberware does not have a Figure 16. neckbase measure. Neckbase measurement. SYMCAD method. The “neckbase” is the perimeter around the neck defined by a plane section based on the 7th cervical vertebra and both left and right neck bases (SYMCAD, 2000). Discussion. The neckbase measurement for the ImageTwin and SYMCAD seem to be consistent with the current standards. The term “neck” could be changed so it would not be confused with the midneck measure. This measure is possibly more important for women than men because of the various collarless clothing styles. Considering the development of the Cyberware system and its use by the military, it is understandable that they have not developed a neckbase measure. Karla P. Simmons 31 A-1 Paper
  • 40. Table 6. Midneck and Neckbase Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models Midneck Neckbase ImageTwin Collar Neck Cyberware Neck Circumference n/a SYMCAD Neck Girth Neckbase Chest Circumference Traditional measurement method. The chest circumference is defined as the maximum horizontal girth at bust levels measured under the armpits, over the shoulder blades, and across the nipples with the subject breathing normally (NSB, 1971; ISO, 1989; ISO, 1981); parallel to the floor (ASTMa, 1995; ASTMb, 1995; ASTM, 1999; McConville, 1979). ImageTwin method. The “chest” measurement is measured horizontally at the armpit level just above the bustline (Ken Harrison, personal communication, September, 1999; [TC2], 1999). Cyberware method. Cyberware does not have a measurement that differentiates the chest from the bust measures. Their chest measure is more related to the bust measure and is discussed in the next section. SYMCAD method. The “maximum chest girth” is the maximum horizontal perimeter of the chest (SYMCAD, 2000). Figure 17. Chest circumference measurement. Karla P. Simmons 32 A-1 Paper
  • 41. Discussion. Current standards do not differentiate between the chest and bust measurements. However, there is a distinct difference. The only system to clearly recognize this difference is the ImageTwin. The SYMCAD measurement discusses the maximum circumference which on a man might be the chest measure. For a woman, the bust will almost always be the maximum circumference. The above-bust (or chest) circumference is vitally important for the best fit in women’s clothing. Because men’s clothing is seldom created with a close, form fit, the measure and its determination may be less important. Bust Circumference Traditional measurement method. The bust circumference is defined as the maximum horizontal girth at bust level measured under the armpits, over the shoulder blades, and across the nipples with the subject breathing normally (NSB, 1971; ISO, 1989; ISO, 1981); parallel to the floor (ASTMa, 1995; ASTMb, 1995; ASTM, 1999; McConville, 1979). ImageTwin method. The “bust” measurement is the horizontal circumference taken across the bust points at the fullest part of the chest ([TC2], 1999). Cyberware method. The “chest circumference” measurement is the sum of the distances separating successive points from the torso segment that lies on or near a parallel place to the X axis which passes through the right and left bustpoints (Steven Figure 18. Bust circumference Paquette, personal communication, December 1, measurement. Karla P. Simmons 33 A-1 Paper
  • 42. 2000). SYMCAD method. The “chest girth” is the horizontal perimeter measured at the average height of the most prominent points of each breast with the subject standing with arms apart and breathing normally (SYMCAD, 2000). Discussion. All three scanners have definitions that include going through the bust points for the bust circumference. The standards discuss going across the nipples but, if you notice, this definition is the same as the one for chest circumference. The definition for the chest measurement should be changed in the standards to reflect the true definition of being measured horizontally at the armpit level just above the bustline. The terminology in the three scanners for the bust circumference name should be changed to reflect a very different bust measure. Since the term “bust” may be an issue in men’s measurement and not really needed, another general term may be needed or the measurement sets may be defined by gender. Table 7. Chest and Bust Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models Chest Bust ImageTwin Chest Bust Cyberware n/a Chest Circumference SYMCAD Maximum Chest Girth Chest Girth Waist-Natural Indentation Traditional measurement method. The natural waist measure is defined as the horizontal circumference at the level of the waist, immediately below the lowest rib (Gordon, et al, 1989; ASTM, 1999; ASTMa, 1995; NSB, 1971; NSB, Karla P. Simmons 34 A-1 Paper
  • 43. 1972); between the iliac crest and lower ribs (ISO, 1989; ISO, 1981); may not be parallel to the floor (ASTMb, 1995). ImageTwin method. The “waist” is the smallest circumference between the bust and hips determined by locating the small of the back and then going up and down a predetermined amount for a starting point to find the waist. The system allows the user to define how far from horizontal the waist can rotate or determine a fixed angle for the waist. Zeros for the center front and center back values will make the waist parallel to the floor. The waist can be adjusted based on the hips. The distance you start above the waist is based upon where the hips are located. The system uses a formula that defines a distance above the crotch to start the waist based on the circumference of the hips. Someone who has rather large, wide hips might allow the waist to go up higher (Ken Harrison, personal communication, September 1999; [TC2], 1999). Cyberware Method. This system does not use the natural indentation of the body as the waist measure. They use the navel as the waist landmark which is explained in the next section. SYMCAD method. The “natural waist girth” is the horizontal perimeter measured at the narrowest part of the abdomen (SYMCAD, 2000). Discussion. Both ImageTwin and SYMCAD have definitions that coincide with the current standards. However, palpatation or bending to one side is needed to determine the landmarks used in the natural waist. In a scanner, the subject stands vertically and does not move. Therefore, the standards need to reflect this issue in their definition. Karla P. Simmons 35 A-1 Paper
  • 44. Waist-Navel (Omphalion) Traditional measurement method. No current standard could be found that had a waist-at-the-navel definition. ImageTwin method. This system does not have a method of detecting the navel for use in the waist measurement. Cyberware method. The “waist circumference” is taken in reference to the navel. It is the measurement of the total distance around the torso segment that lies on or near a plane parallel to the XY plane which passes through the navel (omphalion). The center of the navel is taken to be the center of mass of the 3D object occurring at or near the inside middle of the central third of the torso segment (Steven Paquette, personal communication, December 1, 2000). SYMCAD method. The “waist girth (at the Figure 19. Waist at the navel navel)” is the horizontal perimeter measured where the measurement. system detects the navel. The “belt girth” is where the trousers are worn according to the rise as defined by the user (SYMCAD, 2000). Discussion. Using the navel as a landmark has a significant problem of not being able to be located. The subject in the scanner will usually have on clothing that could cover up the navel. This would affect other measurements that rely on an accurate waist measure for their extraction. The terminology for the waist-at-the-navel terms for Cyberware and SYMCAD should be changed to indicate the usage of the navel as a landmark. Karla P. Simmons 36 A-1 Paper
  • 45. Table 8. Waist-Natural Indentation and Waist-Navel(Omphalion)Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models Waist-Natural Waist-Navel Indentation (Omphalion) ImageTwin Waist n/a Cyberware n/a Waist Circumference SYMCAD Natural Waist Girth Waist Girth Belt girth Hip Circumference Traditional measurement method. The hip circumference is defined as the maximum hip circumference of the body at the hip level, parallel to the floor (ASTMa, 1995); maximum circumference of the body at the level of maximum prominence of the buttocks (ASTM, 1999); maximum hip circumference at the level of maximum prominence of the buttocks, parallel to the floor (ASTMb, 1995); the horizontal girth measured round the buttocks at the level of the greatest lateral trochanteric projectors (ISO, 1989); the horizontal girth measured round the buttocks at the level of maximum circumference (ISO, 1981). ImageTwin method. The “hips” measure is defined as the largest circumference defined between the waist and the crotch. Upper and lower limits can be specified by the user. These limits are based on a percentage of the distance from the crotch and the waist and a distance above or below that point (Ken Harrison, personal communication, September, 1999; [TC2], 1999). Cyberware method. Cyberware does not have a hips measurement. SYMCAD method. SYMCAD does not have a hips measurement. Karla P. Simmons 37 A-1 Paper
  • 46. Seat Traditional measurement method. The seat measure is defined as the horizontal circumference of the level of the maximum protrusion of the right buttock, as viewed from the side (Gordon, et al, 1989). ImageTwin Method. The “seat” measure is the circumference taken at the largest (widest) part of the bottom, as viewed from the side. The seat measure will never be larger than the hips measure unless limits are placed on the area the scanner searches in (Ken Harrison, personal communication, September, 1999; [TC2], 1999). Cyberware Method. The “seat circumference” finds the seat at the most prominent posterior protuberance on the buttocks. Starting at the crotch, cross sections of the pelvis are taken until the waist is reached. At each level, the greatest posterior point is found. At the level of the most posterior point, the circumference is measured around the point cloud (Beecher, 1999). SYMCAD method. The “seat girth” is the horizontal perimeter measured at the average height of the most prominent point of the buttocks (SYMCAD, 2000). Discussion. The traditional definitions of this measure allow for a great deal of measurement variance since no consistent landmark is defined. The Figure 20. Seat measurement. ImageTwin most correctly follows the ASTMa, 1995 and ISO, 1981 standards but does not support the other definitions. The other definitions (ASTMb, 1995; ASTM, 1999; ISO, 1989) most clearly follow the Karla P. Simmons 38 A-1 Paper
  • 47. definition of seat as stated above. A strong case can be made for the importance of both hip and seat measures as well as the location of those measures form a basic landmark (floor or waist). Table 9. Hip Circumference and Seat Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models Hip Circumference Seat ImageTwin Hips Seat Cyberware n/a Seat Circumference SYMCAD n/a Seat Girth Sleeve Length Traditional measurement method. The sleeve length is defined as the horizontal surface distance from the mid-spine landmark, across the olecranon- center landmark at the tip of the raised right elbow, to the dorsal wrist landmark (Gordon, et al, 1989); the distance between the 7th cervical vertebra to the extremity of the wrist bone, passing over the top of the shoulder (acromion) and along the arm bent at 90 degrees in a horizontal position (ISO, 1989; ASTMa, 1995). ImageTwin method. The “shirt sleeve length” is measured from the back of the neck, over the shoulder, and down to 2 inches above the knuckle ([TC2], 1999). Cyberware method. The “sleeve length” measure starts by measuring one-half the cross-shoulder Figure 21. Sleeve length measurement. A line is then drawn from the shoulder measurement. Karla P. Simmons 39 A-1 Paper
  • 48. endpoint (acromion) to the wrist. One inch is added to the length to give the approximate sleeve end point (ARN, 1999). SYMCAD method. The “total arm length” is the distance between the base of the neck and the exterior inferior edge of the wrist, measured along the arm through the tops of both the acromion and the elbow, arm and forearm in a vertical plane forming an angle of about 120 degrees. The subject must stand with their fists about 15cm out from the hips (SYMCAD, 2000). Discussion. This measure, as defined here, is primarily used in men’s tailored clothing. The ISO, ASTM, and U.S. Army study standards for sleeve length require the arm to be bent at 90 degrees for this measure. In many scanners, the subject’s arms are hanging straight down and are not bent. None of these standards will work for body scanning as they currently exist. SYMCAD needs to have a term that reflects its relationship with the sleeve. Arm Length Traditional measurement method. The arm length is defined as the distance from the armscye/shoulder line intersection (acromion), over the elbow, to the far end of the prominent wrist bone (ulna), with fists clenched and placed on the hip and with the arms bent at 90 degrees (ISO, 1989; ASTMa, 1995; ASTMb, 1995; ASTM, 1999). ImageTwin method. This system does not have an arm length measure. Cyberware method. This system does not have an arm length measure. SYMCAD method. The “arm length” measure is the distance between the edge of the shoulder and the exterior inferior edge of the wrist, measured along Karla P. Simmons 40 A-1 Paper
  • 49. the arm through the top of the elbow, arm, and forearm in a vertical plane forming an angle of about 120 degrees, standing with fists about 15cm apart from the hips(SYMCAD, 2000). Discussion. SYMCAD is the only scanner with this arm length measure at this time. It is labeled appropriately. The current standards require the arms to be bent at 90 degrees. The ImageTwin and Cyberware require Figure 22. Arm length subjects to hang their arms naturally be their side, slightly measurement. away from the body. The SYMCAD requires an awkward stance of the elbows bent up and out from the body. However, it does not give the 90 degrees stipulated by the standards and is questionable as to whether this would effect the measure. Table 10. Sleeve Length and Arm Length Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models Sleeve Length Arm Length ImageTwin Shirt Sleeve Length n/a Cyberware Sleeve Length n/a SYMCAD Total Arm Length Arm Length Inseam Traditional measurement method. The inseam measure is defined as the distance from the crotch intersection straight down to the soles of the feet (ASTMa, 1995; ASTMb, 1995; ASTM, 1999; ISO, 1981; ISO, 1989) Karla P. Simmons 41 A-1 Paper
  • 50. ImageTwin method. The “inseam” measure allows for user defined parameters on where the inseam should be measured. Both methods start at the crotch point. One variation of the measure can be made straight down to the floor. The other variation can take the measure along the inside of the leg, ending at the inside of the foot. The default for the system gives the height of the crotch straight up from the floor ([TC2], 1999). Cyberware method. The “pant inseam” is the Figure 23. Inseam measurement. measure of the crotch height which is the straight height above the floor of the lowest crotch point. The legs are separated from the torso at the crotch, therefore the measurement value is the height of segmentation between the legs and torso (Steven Paquette, personal communication, December 1, 2000). SYMCAD method. The “inside leg length” is the distance measured on a straight line along the leg between the crotch and the ground while subject stands with legs apart (SYMCAD, 2000). Discussion. SYMCAD is the only system that deviates from the current definitions in that it is measured along the leg and not straight down to the floor. Its terminology could be changed to be inline with the others. Karla P. Simmons 42 A-1 Paper
  • 51. Table 11. Inseam Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models Inseam ImageTwin Inseam Cyberware Pant Inseam SYMCAD Inside Leg Length Outseam Traditional measurement method. The distance from the side waist to the soles of the feet, following the curves of the body (ASTM, 1999; ISO, 1981); following the contour of the hip then vertically down (ISO, 1989); The vertical distance between a standing surface and the landmark at the preferred landmark of the right waist (Gordon, et al, 1989). ImageTwin method. The “outseam” measure starts at the side waist point and follows the body down to the hips. From there, user defined parameters allow three variations: (1) from the hip point, the measure goes straight down to the floor and disregards whether the legs are in the way or not, (2) from the hip point, the measure goes down to the outside of the foot, and (3) from the hip point, the measure goes straight to the floor as soon as there is no leg getting in the way ([TC2], 1999). Cyberware method. This system does not have an outseam measure. Figure 24. Outseam SYMCAD method. The “outside leg length” is measurement. Karla P. Simmons 43 A-1 Paper
  • 52. the distance comprised between the natural waist line and the ground, measured on the flank side along the hip and then vertically from the fleshy part of the thigh (SYMCAD, 2000). Discussion. Both ImageTwin and SYMCAD follow the same basic definition. However, the standards should be clearer on the outseam measure. Gordon’s traditional definition is really a vertical waist height measure. While an important measure, it doesn’t have a direct application or the best fit of pants or skirts. Table 12. Outseam Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models Outseam ImageTwin Outseam Cyberware n/a SYMCAD Outside Leg Length Shoulder Length Traditional measurement method. The shoulder length measure is taken with the arms hanging down naturally. It is the measure from the side of the neck base to the armscye line at the shoulder joint (ASTMa, 1995; ASTMb, 1995; ASTM, 1999); from the base of the side of the neck (neck point) to the acromion extremity (ISO, 1989). ImageTwin method. The “shoulder length” is the distance from the side of the neck to the shoulder point (acromion)([TC2], 1999). Karla P. Simmons 44 A-1 Paper
  • 53. Cyberware Method. This system does not have a shoulder length measure. SYMCAD method. With the arms apart, the “shoulder length” is the distance between the base of the neck and the edge of the shoulder (SYMCAD, 2000). Discussion. Both the ImageTwin and SYMCAD have terms and definitions that are consistent with the current standards. However, there Figure 25. Shoulder is still an issue of the scanners being able to correctly length measurement. identify the landmarks of the neck and acromion consistently. Table 13. Shoulder Length Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models Shoulder Length ImageTwin Shoulder Length Cyberware n/a SYMCAD Shoulder Length Across Chest Traditional measurement method. Measure across the chest from armscye to armscye at front breakpoint8 level (ASTMa, 1995; ASTMb, 1995); from front-break point to front-break point (ASTM, 1999). 8 Front breakpoint is the location on the front of the body where the arm separates from the body (ASTM, 1999). Karla P. Simmons 45 A-1 Paper
  • 54. ImageTwin method. The “across chest” measure is taken from the front of the arm at the armpit level to the front of the other arm at the armpit level ([TC2], 1999). Cyberware method. This system does not have an across chest measure. SYMCAD method. The “across chest” Figure 26. Across chest measurement. measure is the distance between the points situated at the middle of the segment between the edge of the shoulder and the armpit in the front with subject standing with arms apart (SYMCAD, 2000). Discussion. The definition for the across chest measure for SYMCAD seems unclear. Greater detail or different wording should be used. Table 14. Across Chest Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models Across Chest ImageTwin Across Chest Cyberware n/a SYMCAD Across Chest Across Back Traditional measurement method. Measure across the back from armscye to armscye back-break point9 level (ASTMa, 1995; ASTM, 1999); approximately the same level as the chest (ASTMb, 1995); the horizontal 9 Back breakpoint is the location on the back of the body where the arm separates from the body (ASTM, 1999). Karla P. Simmons 46 A-1 Paper
  • 55. distance across the back measured half-way between the upper and lower scye levels (ISO, 1989). ImageTwin method. The “across back” measure is taken from the back of one arm to the back of the other at the armpit level, where the arm joins the back at the crease ([TC2], 1999). Cyberware method. This system does not have an across back measure. SYMCAD method. The “across back” measure is the distance between the points situated at the middle of the segment between the edge of the shoulder and the armpit in the back with the Figure 27. Across back measurement. subject standing with arms apart (SYMCAD, 2000). Discussion. Te definition for the across back measure for SYMCAD seems unclear. Greater detail or different wording should be used. Standards should be more consistent. Table 15. Across Back Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models Across Back ImageTwin Across Back Cyberware n/a SYMCAD Across Back Karla P. Simmons 47 A-1 Paper
  • 56. Back of Neck to Waist Length Traditional measurement method. The back of neck to waist measure is defined as the distance from the 7th cervical vertebra (cervicale), following the contour of the spinal column, to the waist (ISO, 1989; ASTMa, 1995; ASTMb, 1995; ASTM, 1999; Gordon, et al, 1989). ImageTwin method. The “neck to waist” measure can be measured in the front or the back. For the back measure, it is taken at the neck base, following the contours of the spine down to the waist at the location previously defined in the system ([TC2], 1999). Cyberware method. This system does not have a Figure 28. Back of neck back of neck to waist measure. to waist measurement. SYMCAD method. The “back neck to waist” is the distance between the 7th cervical vertebra and the waist (at the navel) along the body between the shoulder blades up to the widest point then vertically. The “back neck to belt” is the distance between the 7th cervical vertebra and the belt (the waist measure at the preferred height) along the body between the shoulder blades up to the widest point then vertically (SYMCAD, 2000). Discussion. This is a critical measure for appropriate fit of most upper body garments. A significant issue for this measure is the location of the waist. When the waist measure is standardized, it will affect this measure also. Karla P. Simmons 48 A-1 Paper
  • 57. Table 16. Back of Neck to Waist Length Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models Back of Neck to Waist ImageTwin Neck to Waist Cyberware n/a SYMCAD Back Neck to Waist Back Neck to Belt Rise Traditional measurement method. The rise measure is defined as the vertical distance between the waist level and the crotch level taken standing from the side (ISO, 1989; ASTM, 1999); while sitting on a hard, flat surface, measure straight down from the waist level at the side of the body to the flat surface (ASTMa, 1995). ImageTwin method. The “vertical rise” is the vertical distance from the crotch to the waist, not being measured along the body. Instead, it is the difference in height of the waist and the crotch ([TC2], 1999). Cyberware method. This system does not have a rise measure. SYMCAD method. The “body rise” is the difference Figure 29. Rise measurement. between the height of the belt girth (where the trousers are worn) and the inside leg length (SYMCAD, 2000). Discussion. Again, the issue for this measure is the location of the waist. When the waist measure is standardized, it will affect this measure also. Karla P. Simmons 49 A-1 Paper
  • 58. Table 17. Rise Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models Rise ImageTwin Vertical Rise Cyberware n/a SYMCAD Body Rise Crotch Length Traditional measurement method. The crotch length is defined as the measure from the center front waist level through the crotch to the center back waist level (ASTMb, 1995); the distance between the abdomen at the level of the preferred landmark of the waist to the preferred landmark on the back is measured through the crotch to the right of the genitalia (Gordon, et al, 1989). ImageTwin method. The “crotch length” is the measurement along the body from the front waist through the crotch to the back waist. This system allows the user to define whether a front, back, or full crotch length is needed ([TC2], 1999). Cyberware method. This system does not have a Figure 30. Crotch length measurement. crotch length measure. SYMCAD method. This system does not have a crotch length measure. Discussion. ImageTwin was specifically designed for use in apparel. In this research, they were the only system to have a crotch length. The only standard that included the crotch length is the ASTM 5586 for Women over 55. Karla P. Simmons 50 A-1 Paper
  • 59. Other standards should include the crotch length also. This is a critical measure for the appropriate fit of pants, shorts, or variations of each. Table 18. Crotch Length Terms Used in Selected Scanner Models Crotch Length ImageTwin Crotch Length Cyberware n/a SYMCAD n/a Thigh Circumference Traditional measurement method. The thigh circumference is defined as the maximum circumference of the upper leg close to the crotch (ASTMa, 1995; ASTM, 1999); parallel to the floor (ASTMb, 1995); at the juncture with the buttock (Gordon, et al, 1989); at the highest thigh position (ISO, 1989). Traditional measurement method for mid-thigh circumference. The horizontal circumference of the thigh measured midway between the hip and the knee (ISO, 1989; ASTMa, 1995; ASTM, 1999); parallel to the floor (ASTMb, 1995). ImageTwin method. The “thigh” measure offers user defined parameters for several choices on defining the position of the thigh. The system allows for a fixed location of the search for the thigh. The default uses this parameter by placing the thigh 2 inches below the crotch. Figure 31. Thigh You can also program the system to find the largest circumference measurement. Karla P. Simmons 51 A-1 Paper