Second Sense's Polly Abbott explains how to teach sewing to students with vision loss. She gave this presentation at IAER 2014.

2. Your Presenter:
Polly Abbott, CVRT
Director of Rehabilitation Services
Second Sense
65 E. Wacker Place, #1010
Chicago, IL 60601
312-236-8569
www.second-sense.org
Contact Polly:
polly.abbott@second-sense.org

3. Sew
Independent!

4. Why teach sewing beyond replacing buttons and
fixing dropped hems?
• Sewing develops
tactile sensitivity and
builds organizational
skills.
• Success with sewing
builds confidence and
self-esteem.
• Learning to sew on the
machine or make
actual sewn items has
an enormous impact
on a student’s view of
their capabilities.

5. Sew Much to Talk About!
1) General tips
2) Tips for teaching threading, measuring, cutting and
machine sewing
3) SAFETY: Instruction caveats discussed as we go
through the tools and techniques
4) Incorporating volunteers into the sewing room
5) The World is Flat, Rectangular and Made of Fabric:
Beginner project ideas

6. General Tips: Some things I’ve learned
while teaching sewing:
•
Get the student sewing or cutting as
soon as possible to create a sense
of accomplishment. It is very
motivating!
•
Stay positive and upbeat no matter
what happens. Many little things can
go wrong and slow down the task at
hand. Keep your voice warm and
calm. Reassure the student that it is
normal and all a part of learning to
sew. (Even experienced sewers jam
up their sewing machines!)
•
Stress SAFETY through good habits
and techniques as well as
organization. Everything will seem
pointy and sharp to a new sewer.

7. Tips for Teaching Threading a Hand-sewing Needle:
•
Consider not teaching “how to
thread” first. Will your student
have a better first experience
sewing if you simply have
them show a short seam with
big basting stitches?
•
Is your student spending a lot
of time searching for the
thread? Is your student
finding the end only to drop it
again—over and over?
•
Teach threading as a series of
steps where each hand has a
role to play. This will reduce
student frustration and the
time it takes to thread the
needle.

8. How Do You Decide Which Method? Which
Type of Needle?
• Do you, as a teacher,
favor one type of
method or needle over
another? Decrease
your bias by practicing
until you have mastery
over all the threading
options.
• Reflect on how each
method might suit one
particular client and
not another.
• How do you decide
which threading
method to introduce to
a student?

9. Tips for Threading: Specific Steps for Hands and Fingers
Steps:
1.After threading, pull the short cut
end to the desired sewing length
(left hand). Do not let go!
2.Match thread from spool to end in
left hand. Hold both threads
between fingers (left hand) but leave
about 2 inches of cut end dangling.
3.Pick up scissors with right hand
and cut 2 inches from pinched left
hand. Don’t let go of threads!
4.Grab cut ends with right hand and
tie knot. (Wrap around index finger
and twist and roll off fingertip.)

10. Threading a Sewing Machine
•
Left hand pulls and directs the
thread while right hand verifies
that the thread is going in the slot
or hook the way it should.
•
Students have a tendency to keep
pulling and pulling the thread.
Teach them to have only about 4-5
inches in left hand. Work with the
minimum amount of thread
necessary to avoid tangles.
•
Right hand (index finger usually)
can be used to hold thread
against the machine (creating
thread tension) while left hand
directs thread around hooks.

11. Self-Threading Sewing Machine Needles
•
Pressure foot should be
down.
•
Needle should be up. (Verify
by touching horizontal knob
to the right at the top of the
needle. Adjust position of
needle manually using wheel
on side of machine.)
Steps:
1. Stretch the thread
horizontally holding the tail
end in left hand and the rest
in the right.
2. Pass it under the point of the
needle.
3. Trail it up behind the shaft of
the needle.

12. Self-Threading Sewing Machine Needles
Steps:
4. Swing right hand in front of
the needle (at 6 o’clock). Use
middle or ring finger to hold
thread against the right side
of the needle shaft.
5. Drag the thread (both hands
together) down the needle
shaft until it clicks into the
hole on the right side of the
needle eye.
6. Maintaining tension with both
hands, pull the thread
through the needle with the
left hand. Do not let go with
the right hand until thread is
resting along the shaft of the
needle.

13. Inserting Bobbins
•
Depending on the student, you
may wish to teach how to fill
the bobbin after threading the
machine has been mastered.
•
According to machine
directions, bobbins have to be
inserted with the thread
coming off the bobbin a certain
way.
•
The student can check by
placing the filled bobbin on a
flat surface and pulling the
thread with the left hand. The
right hand gently holds the
bobbin and feels if it spins
clockwise or counterclockwise.

14. Inserting Bobbins
• “Front-loaders”
require a dexterous left
hand.
• “Top-loaders” have
easier access.
• Either way, the left
hand pulls the thread
into the notch of the
bobbin casing as the
right hand verifies that
thread is going in the
correct place.

15. Starting Machine Sewing: Fabric Placement
• Painter’s tape is quick
and easy for marking
seam allowance as
well as marking how
far under the pressure
foot the fabric should
go.
• Some machines,
conveniently, already
have grooves or
screws that can be
used as landmarks for
fabric placement.

16. Before you hit the gas pedal…
Before the student takes the
first stitch, make sure to
check 3 things:
1. The fabric is aligned on
the right and is under the
pressure foot (clamp it
down).
2. Left hand is holding the
needle thread and the
bobbin thread. This prevents
the needle from unthreading
and the bobbing from
jamming.
3. The needle is down.
Manually lower the needle
for the first stitch. Check
with right hand to verify
position.

17. Cutting Tools: Scissors
•
Use scissors meant for
fabric, and don’t use them
for anything else to keep
them sharp.
•
7-inch length is good for
beginners. Scissors are
left-handed or righthanded.
•
For weaker hands, springaction scissors exist.
•
SAFETY: Teach students
to always close scissors
before putting down.
•
SAFETY: When cutting
threads in hand, only
open scissors after
locating thread to cut.

18. Cutting Tools: Rotary Cutters
•
They are very sharp as
long as blades are
changed regularly.
•
(top) Push slider button
forward to expose blade.
SAFETY: Students
frequently forget to
retract blade.
•
(bottom) SAFETY: Best
for class is the “squeezehandle” model. Comes
with a button to freeze
position of blade.
•
(left) However, students
sometimes freeze the
position with the blade
exposed!

19. Preparing to Cut Fabric: Fabric Alignment
•
Fabric must be cut on the grain.
How do you lay it straight when
you can’t see the lines on the
cutting board?
•
Use Dymo tape! Braille a single
line of dots about 4 inches long
and place 1 inch in from the
edge of the cutting board or
mat.
•
Make a second section of dots
and place about 10 inches away
from the first set. Make a third
set if you are working with large
pieces of fabric.
•
Always use more than one set
of dots to align selvage edge of
fabric.

20. Preparing to Cut Fabric: Fabric Alignment
•
Use fingertips at each end of the
strip of dots to make sure the
edge of fabric touches the dots
perfectly.
•
Painter’s tape can also work, but
students need very good tactile
skills.
•
Dymo tape dots are raised enough
for thicker fabric.
•
Fabric alignment should be
checked periodically. Fabric can
shift.
•
This can take time and try the
patience of new sewers. Consider
assisting more in the beginning. It
takes time to develop a feel for
handling fabric.

21. Preparing to Cut: Rotary Cutter and Ruler
•
Use a wide quilting ruler with
rotary cutters.
•
SAFETY: Ruler must be wide
enough to place your hand away
from path of rotary blade.
•
SAFETY: Place tactile “warning
strip” along right side of ruler
(where the cutting happens).
•
Use straight edge of the cutting
board to match up with the
straight edge of the ruler.
•
The long edge of the ruler is now
aligned and ready for the rotary
cutter. No vision required to cut
straight across the fabric!

22. Preparing to Cut: Rotary Cutter and Ruler
•
Check edges to make sure the
fabric is smooth with no
wrinkles.
•
Make sure way is clear to cut by
touching the length of the ruler.
•
Students need to have a set
location to put tools to keep the
cutting board as clutter-free as
possible. (Easier said than done.
As a teacher you will be
reinforcing organization
constantly!)
•
Keep pressure on the ruler with
left hand to prevent any shifting
of fabric or ruler alignment.

23. Cutting (Like a Hot Knife Through Butter!)
•
SAFETY: Fingers of left hand
should not be on the warning
strip of tape. Teach students that
this is the first self-check step
they need to do before cutting.
•
SAFETY: Bring the rotary cutter
into position without exposing
the blade. This is step two.
•
Teaching Step: Go through the
motions of cutting without
exposing the blade. This gives
the teacher time to check
technique and the student some
extra practice.
•
Teaching Step: Cut a lot of scrap
fabric before using the student’s
fabric.

24. Rotary Cutter Technique
1. Hold the handle almost upright. Let
the cutter rest against the ruler
edge.
2. Cutter should be on cutting board,
not on fabric to start, or the first
threads won’t be cut.
3. Left hand presses firmly down on
ruler to hold in place.
4. Release safety catch on cutter and
expose blade.
5. Cut in a smooth stroke, pausing to
move left hand as needed to stay
abreast of cutting action.
6. Correct cutting has a distinct sound
and feel.

25. Incorrect!
What is wrong
with this
picture?
(Two things)
Last points about technique:
• NEVER EVER cut towards
self!
• Teach student NEVER to
cut without a ruler to follow
and protect.

26. Use a Template to Cut Squares or Rectangles
•
Templates allow a student
to measure without
measuring.
•
Templates can be
purchased in quilting
stores or teacher-made.
•
Template must be the
same thickness or more
than the ruler.
•
Students must have good
tactual skills to detect
fabric edges around
template.

27. Using a Template to Cut Squares or Rectangles
•
Use the template to cut fabric
into strips of a uniform width
then cut the strips into squares
or rectangles.
•
Templates must be light and
easy to move with one hand.
•
Poster board seems to work the
best. Art stores can cut it to a
perfect square or rectangle for
you. It is light, cheap and
comes in contrasting colors.
•
Shown is a Plexiglas template.
It works, but it is heavier, clear
and invisible, slippery to
manipulate, and the edges
seem a little sharp.

28. How Do You Align Small Strips of Fabric?
• Align the ruler
lengthwise along the
side of the cutting mat.
• Teach students to use
a gentle, light touch
when aligning
anything to prevent
shifting of ruler and
fabric.

29. How Do You Align Small Strips of Fabric?
“Check twice;
measure twice;
cut once!”

30. Cutting Small Squares
•
Once strip of fabric is
aligned, the template and
ruler can be used to cut
the strip into sections.
•
Teach student to check
for accuracy of previous
cuts by feeling for
exposed fabric around
top and bottom edges of
template.
•
SAFETY: Encourage
student to always set the
rotary cutter with the
blade down (facing the
cutting board) and
pointing to the right.

31. Fiskars 45 mm Fabric Rotary Strip Cutter
IT SEEMS LIKE A GOOD IDEA
• Works like a paper cutter.
• Much safer for fingers.
• Edges make fabric alignment easy.
• Bar clamps down and hold fabric
securely in place while cutting.
BUT
• Much more difficult to measure how
much to cut as there is no room for
the template.
• Cannot cut 45-inch wide fabric
folded in half, only narrower widths.

32. Cutting Patterns with Scissors
•
Accuracy takes patience and
precision. Former sewers
tend to adjust better to
cutting by touch.
•
Student must be able to pin
pattern without lifting edge of
fabric.
•
As with teaching slicing in the
kitchen, students should
check position of the scissor
blades and then move fingers
out of the way when cutting.
•
Have more than one copy of
thicker paper patterns for
beginners, as they will tend to
slice through them. I use
braille paper. (Need sturdy
pins.)

33. Cutting Patterns with Scissors
•
Teaching finger position while
cutting with scissors can be a
challenge. So much depends on
the student’s past experience and
their general ability to get
information through their
fingertips.
•
When instructing, stress what the
goals are: The pattern must cut
exactly along side the pattern
without cutting the pattern itself.
The student needs to know where
the edge of the pattern is in
relation to where the blades are
going to cut. Students tend to
experiment until they find what
works.
•
Teachers need to monitor fingers
and correct bad habits that place
fingers in harm’s way.

34. Instructing Machine Sewing
•
Start getting new sewer used
to controlling the machine by
having them sew through
paper with an old needle. It
creates tactile lines; they can
tell how straight the “seam”
is.
•
Fingers must be able to verify
that a uniform seam
allowance is maintained as
the fabric is supported.
Generally, the right hand
checks for accuracy as the
left hand supports and
smoothes the fabric.
•
SAFETY: “All hands on
deck!” Fingers are safe from
the needle as long as finger
tips are resting on the fabric.

35. Instructing Machine Sewing
•
Encourage students to try
different hand positions.
Students need to practice
switching the position of their
left hand from supporting the
fabric near them to the fabric
further away as the weight of
the fabric requires.
•
For best accuracy, the right
hand should check fabric
placement beside the
pressure foot to keep seams
straight.
•
The horizontal knob that
holds the needle in place may
hit knuckles of the right hand
if the fingers are curled too
much.

36. Independent Measuring
• No ideal solution yet.
• Most success has
been with sewingspecific, teacheradapted tools.
• Dymo tape can create
numeric markings or
simple bumps.
Numeric is faster for
braille readers;
everyone else has to
count the bumps,
which is very slow.

37. Independent Measuring
• Count bumps once
and then use tape or a
safety pin as a marker
if measuring the same
distance more than
once.
• Some students prefer
to incorporate their
magnification devices
with sewing for greater
accuracy and ease.

38. Independent Measuring
• Some sewing tools,
such as this ruler for
marking hems, are
already blind and lowvision-friendly—and
they have just enough
room to mark off the
inches with Dymo
tape.
• It goes without saying
that serious students
should have their own
personally accessible
measuring device to
measure hems,
distances between
buttons, etc.

39. Transferring Pattern Markings to Fabric
• Tailor’s tacks work
best. Use thicker
button thread or even
fine yarn in the
beginning to make the
tacks easier to feel.
• Mark class patterns
with tactile markings
as well as large print.
• This is an essential
skill for advanced
sewing. Teach it early
on as part of small,
simple projects.

40. Transferring Pattern Markings to Fabric
• This is a sample of a
small pouch purse
with the darts on the
left marked with ivory
soap lines and the dart
on the left marked with
tailor’s tacks.
• Students with low
vision who can see the
soap marks should
also learn to make
tailor’s tacks. They will
not always be sewing
on fabric that allows
enough color contrast
for soap lines to show.

41. Volunteers in the Sewing Room
•
Volunteers can help with
monitoring for safety if you
work with more than one
student at a time.
•
Each class, give your
volunteer specific tasks to do
or explicitly describe what
you want them to monitor and
when to get you instead of
helping the student
themselves (boundaries).
•
Plan to instruct the
volunteers on how and what
you are teaching so that they
understand how sewing is
accomplished with vision
loss. This will dampen any
“do for” tendencies and
promote student
independence.

42. Projects to Suggest to Students
Straight edges are easiest to cut and
sew, so there are a variety of projects
that are made with rectangles and
squares:
• Pillow cases
• Fabric eco-friendly lunch bag
• Tote bag (handles are skinny
rectangles)
• Purse with long or short strap
• Drawstring bags: slate and stylus bag,
cane cozy, shoe bag, lunch bag, laundry
bag, etc.
• Apron
• Simple Quilt

43. Final Thoughts
•
Teach troubleshooting and
fixing mistakes.
•
Help student develop a method
for telling the right side of the
fabric.
•
Give students time to sew
alone and experience the
independence, but be near.
•
Don’t be afraid to book longer
lesson times for sewing. It is a
craft that takes time. Two
hours can fly by!
•
Teach the student the skills
and adaptations they can use
in community sewing classes.