The document provides a detailed overview of women's and men's fashion during the Crinoline Period from 1850 to 1869. It includes: 1) A timeline of important events from 1850-1869 that influenced styles of the period. 2) Descriptions of the typical layers of women's undergarments and dresses, including the introduction of hoopskirts/crinolines in 1857 that made skirts wider. 3) Details on men's styles including shirts, trousers, vests, and outerwear. 4) Notes on changes to the fashionable silhouette over the decade, including a higher waistline and fullness moved more to the back by the late 1860s.

1. Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate to another page, close the presentation or to open the help page. c. 1850 - 1869 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N Check for updates on the web now!

2. Click to advance through the time line Important Events Influenced Styles of the Crinoline Period 1850 1851 1852 1857 1858 1859 1860 1861 1862 1863 1865 1867 1869 1850 – 1870 Queen Victoria continues to occupy the British Throne 1851 Isaac M. Singer invents the first practical sewing machine. 1852 Louis Napoleon becomes Napoleon the Third and the Second French Republic becomes the Second Empire 1857 Hoopskirt or cage crinoline is introduced 1858 Charles Worth opens couture establishment in Paris 1859 Charles Darwin publishes his theory of evolution in “ The Origin of the Species” 1860 Charles Worth meets the Empress Eugenie and begins to design her clothes 1861 Reunification of Italy Giuseppe Garibaldi 1861 -1865 Civil War in the United States 1862 Congress passes the Morrill Act, establishing Land Grant Colleges Justin Smith Morrill 1863 Emancipation Proclamation ends slavery in the United States 1863 Ebeneezer Butterick patents the first sized, paper pattern for clothing. 1865 Abraham Lincoln is assassinated 1867 United States purchases Alaska from the Russians Check for $7,200,000.00 1867 Harper’s Bazar, fashion magazine, begins publication 1869 Transcontinental railroad completed

3. The style lines for women’s dress at the beginning of the crinoline period were like those of the late Romantic Period. Click image to toggle view

4. The innovation of the cage crinoline or hoopskirt c. 1857 contributed to the continuing popularity of very wide skirts. Click to rotate 360°

5. Hoops to support skirts were not a new idea. They had been used in the 16 th and 18 th Centuries.

6. Cartoonists found hoopskirts a rich subject for humor.

7. Before the adoption of the cage crinoline, women’s rights advocates had attempted to reform women’s dress proposing the bloomer dress. The support provided by hoops helped to make women’s skirts lighter, therefore less encumbering, and the bloomer costume faded away.

8. Women’s under drawers were made of cotton. Click to Enlarge X X X

9. Over the under drawers, they placed a chemise. Click to Enlarge X X

10. Over the chemise, went a corset. Click to Enlarge X X X

11. Over the corset went a camisole or corset cover. Click to Enlarge X

12. Next, the hoop was added. Click on image to rotate 360°

13. And then a single petticoat over the hoop. In winter, it might be made of flannel. Click to Enlarge X X

16. Accessories of Note Jewelry Footwear Miser’s Purse Parasol Under sleeves and Chemisette

17. A man’s undergarments included under drawers and, in cold weather, perhaps an undershirt.

18. Over which he placed a shirt, worn with a tie or cravat.

19. And over that trousers, held up by suspenders.

20. Next, a vest.

22. For outdoors, a variety of cloaks, capes, overcoats.

23. Accessories of Note Hats Ties Pocket Watch and Fob Suspenders or Braces

24. Although both boy and girl toddlers wore skirts, older children were dressed much as adults.

25. With the opening of the House of Worth in Paris, British-born Charles Worth began the high fashion dressmaking that became know as the haute couture . His clients were rich, famous and royal women from all over the world.

27. Though sports for women were limited, they did have costumes specifically for bathing and riding horseback. Click to enlarge image X X

28. By the end of the decade of the 1860’s, the fashionable silhouette had changed. It featured: Skirt fullness moved more to the back. Not a gathered, but a gored skirt A higher waistline

29. For Further Study Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http:// www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum http:// www.museumofcostume.co.uk Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories. http:// www.camrax.com Museum of the City of New York. Images from several exhibits. www.mcny.org /collections Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp Smithsonian National Museum of American History, Washington, DC http://americanhistory2.si.edu/costume/fullindex.cfm Cornell University Costume Collection http:// char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http:// digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html 19th Century Shoes http://www.northampton.gov.uk/Museums/Collections/Boot_and_Shoe/History_of_Shoes/19th_Century.htm

30. For Further Study Paisley Shawls http://dept.kent.edu/museum/exhibit/paisley/paisleyex2.html http://www.izaak.unh.edu/museum/shawls/dp_index.htm Hoopskirts http://www.greenlightwrite.com/hoopskirt.htm http://www.philamuseum.org/exhibitions/installations/hoopskirts.shtml http://demode.tweedlebop.com/crinoline.html Charles F. Worth, Couturier http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/wrth/hd_wrth.htm Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists. Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press. Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900 . New York: Theater Arts Books.

31. Image Credits Image of Cage Crinoline, courtesy of the New York Public Library of Digital Images. Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, c. 2005, [ www.antique-lace.com ]. Image of Cage Crinoline, c. 1860, courtesy of Suzi Clarke, [ www.suziclarke.co.uk ]. Image of Harper’s Front Page c. 1867, courtesy of Michael Ward, [ www.magazineart.org ]. Various images, courtesy of Violet J. Willis, [ www.trousseau.net ]. Image of Drawers, c. 1850-1860, courtesy of Donna Neary, [ www.heritagestudio.com ]. Various images, courtesy of Deborah Burke, [ www.antiquedress.com ]. Image of Farthingale and Panier, courtesy of [ www.farthingales.on.ca ]. Image of Spring Fashions, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection. Image of the Garibaldi Blouse, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection. Image of Swimwear, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection. Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, [ www.antique-fashion.com ], c. 2005. Various images in this chapter are courtesy of Claire King; [ www.clipart.com ]; Photo Arts; Fairchild Publications, Inc.;