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ファッション論総論
1.
ファッション論総論 中央大学 大野展弘
2.
「ファッション」とは • “fassion”の語源 作ること、なすことを意味するラテン語「factio」に由来する • 現在の用法 単に「服装」 流行、はやり ~流の、~風の
3.
ファッションとは「服装」である。 1.機能性(暖かいか、すずしいか) 2.接触する肌との親和性(さらさら、ふわふわ、ちくちく) 3.着用者の延長としての空間の生成(服と肌との空間) 4.対外的心理効果(他人が見てどのような意味を感じるか) 5.対内的心理効果(自分が着ていてどのような意味を感じるか) この5要素のトレードオフによって、各人の服装は決定する。 身体的機能 精神的機能
4.
具体例(オタクの場合)
5.
具体例2(パリコレの場合)
6.
なぜダサいのか • 服の本質的機能を満たしていないことを感じるから • オタク 身体的機能のみを重視して、精神的機能を(ほぼ)度外視している •
パリコレ 精神的機能のみを重視して、身体的機能を度外視している
7.
パリ コレ 理想 全裸 オタク 精神的機能 身体的機能
8.
ファッションとは「流行」である。 • ファッションは、時代に合わせて移り変わる。 • 階級を示すものであった服装は、今や万人のものとなった。
9.
具体例(最近の流行の場合)
10.
流行は消費物である • 流行は常に反流行と共にある。 流行 反流行 反発 大衆化
11.
ファッションとは「~流であること」である。 • 対外に、対内に、「自分の属性」を表明する道具である。 • 社会的属性、思想信条を反映するもの •
これも流行と同様に、反発勢力が発生する
12.
では何を着るべきなのか ・当然、「何を着ても自由」 しかし、「思想を着る」ことを意識すると、もっと服を着るのは楽しくなる
13.
思想は服に宿る 服の思想的構成要素としては、大きく2つ ・その服そのものに込められた思想 ・着用者がその服に対してどう意味づけしているか
14.
実生活において デザイナーの思想を強く反映した服 • 高ぇよ • そもそもこいつら何言ってんのか意味わかんねぇ…… 例(YOHJI
YAMAMOTO 14SS/ deconstruction, meaningless excitement
15.
つまり…… • 我々は、自分で服に意味づけをしていくしかない • モードの一期ごとに変わるテーマにとらわれるべきではない 生産者から消費者へと服が手渡された時、解釈の権限も同様に手渡 されている
16.
宿題 ・ファッションに興味がない人 思想の場を無駄にしないようにしよう! ・ファッションに興味がある人 なんでその服を着ているのか、意味づけしてみよう!
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