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ファッション論総論
中央大学 大野展弘
「ファッション」とは
• “fassion”の語源
作ること、なすことを意味するラテン語「factio」に由来する
• 現在の用法
単に「服装」
流行、はやり
~流の、~風の
ファッションとは「服装」である。
1.機能性(暖かいか、すずしいか)
2.接触する肌との親和性(さらさら、ふわふわ、ちくちく)
3.着用者の延長としての空間の生成(服と肌との空間)
4.対外的心理効果(他人が見てどのような意味を感じるか)
5.対内的心理効果(自分が着ていてどのような意味を感じるか)
この5要素のトレードオフによって、各人の服装は決定する。
身体的機能
精神的機能
具体例(オタクの場合)
具体例2(パリコレの場合)
なぜダサいのか
• 服の本質的機能を満たしていないことを感じるから
• オタク
身体的機能のみを重視して、精神的機能を(ほぼ)度外視している
• パリコレ
精神的機能のみを重視して、身体的機能を度外視している
パリ
コレ
理想
全裸 オタク
精神的機能
身体的機能
ファッションとは「流行」である。
• ファッションは、時代に合わせて移り変わる。
• 階級を示すものであった服装は、今や万人のものとなった。
具体例(最近の流行の場合)
流行は消費物である
• 流行は常に反流行と共にある。
流行
反流行
反発
大衆化
ファッションとは「~流であること」である。
• 対外に、対内に、「自分の属性」を表明する道具である。
• 社会的属性、思想信条を反映するもの
• これも流行と同様に、反発勢力が発生する
では何を着るべきなのか
・当然、「何を着ても自由」
しかし、「思想を着る」ことを意識すると、もっと服を着るのは楽しくなる
思想は服に宿る
服の思想的構成要素としては、大きく2つ
・その服そのものに込められた思想
・着用者がその服に対してどう意味づけしているか
実生活において
デザイナーの思想を強く反映した服
• 高ぇよ
• そもそもこいつら何言ってんのか意味わかんねぇ……
例(YOHJI YAMAMOTO 14SS/ deconstruction, meaningless excitement
つまり……
• 我々は、自分で服に意味づけをしていくしかない
• モードの一期ごとに変わるテーマにとらわれるべきではない
生産者から消費者へと服が手渡された時、解釈の権限も同様に手渡
されている
宿題
・ファッションに興味がない人
思想の場を無駄にしないようにしよう!
・ファッションに興味がある人
なんでその服を着ているのか、意味づけしてみよう!

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ファッション論総論