This document provides guidelines for labeling artifacts in museums and historical societies. It discusses why artifacts should be labeled, questions to consider when developing a labeling policy, and best practices for labeling different types of materials. The key guidelines are to label artifacts individually, choose a stable surface unlikely to cause damage, and use appropriate materials like acid-free paper and graphite pencils that will not harm the artifact. Standardizing procedures can help maintain inventory control and security. Consulting a conservator is advised for complex objects.

1. Artifact Labeling 101
Presented by Emily Phillips and Carolyn Frisa from the Collections
Care and Conservation Alliance
 

2. • allows you to maintain inventory control of your
collections
Why Label Artifacts in Your Historical
Society of Museum?
• can provide some security in the event of theft or
other disaster
• the label acts as the physical connection between
the artifact and its documentation and any other
information

3. • Can methods of labeling be standardized across
your collections?
Questions to consider when developing a
labeling policy:
• Are labeling procedures part of your collections
management policy? If not, is it written down
anywhere?
• Who makes the decisions about labeling in your
institution?

4. • When is the best time to label artifacts already in
your collection? What about new acquisitions?
Questions to consider when developing a
labeling policy:
• Can all of the artifacts be marked in a way that
does not cause damage?
• Are the labeling materials safe to use for the
person who is handling them? Are any health and
safety precautions necessary? Are they easy to
use?

5. • Should labels be reversible? Easy to remove?
Questions to consider when developing a
labeling policy:
• What do you do with pre-existing labels that may
no longer be relevant?
• What do you do with labels on artifacts that your
institution is deaccessioning? Who removes
them? What is the policy?
• Does your institution ever accept loans? How are
these labeled?

6. Where should you put the label?
“Mark objects in an accessible locations that is not
visible to the public when on display. Choose stable
surfaces unlikely to be destroyed by abrasion.
Avoid marking places where an object sits (e.g. its
base), where it will be touched when routinely
handled, and where the surface is flaking or
damaged.”
-American Institute for Conservation & American
Association Museums

7. Where should you put the label?
The type of artifact determines the most
appropriate place for a label, but try to label like
artifacts in a similar place.
Verso of metal military medal. Inside of right jacket cuff. Lower right verso corner of photograph.

8. Where should you put the label?
General Precautions
• don’t write on the front of artifact - this is more
common than you might think!
• don’t place adhesive labels directly on the artifact.
• Avoid marking on or near areas of damage such as
tears, chips, abrasions, cracks, etc.
• Don’t write on the base of objects. This causes
unnecessary handling and the labels can rub off.

9. Sometimes it isn’t safe or possible to
place the label directly on the artifact.
Whenever you are dealing with potentially
complicated artifacts, it is always best to consult a
conservator first. CCCA has objects, paintings, and
paper conservators who can help answer these
questions.
Insect specimens with paper labels
and pins.
Natural history specimens with water-resistant labels and
permanent ink.

10. Don’t forget to add extra labels when the
object is in storage.
Adding extra labels to housing enclosures and to
the artifacts in storage can dramatically reduce
unnecessary handling and wasted time searching
for an artifact. Add digital photos when possible.
Paper tag with pencil number on
sword handle.
Digital photo printed on Permadur on
outside of pamphlet box.
Label printed on Permadur in Melinex
sleeve on outside of document box.

11. What is the right type of label for the
artifact?
Different types of artifacts require different types of
labels.
Labels can be tied or sewn to the
artifact.
Labels can be applied to the artifact
on top of a barrier coat.
Sometimes labels can be written on the
housing enclosures only.

12. Guidelines for Labeling Textiles
Do’s
• Label each textile individually.
• Do use twill tape labeled marked
with pencil.
• Stitch cotton tape to artifact with
only 1 or 2 stitches at each end.
• Use white cotton thread for and a
small gauge needle.
• Label textiles in the same place
for each type.
example: stitch label onto the
lower right corner on the back of
flat textiles
Don’ts
• Don’t just label one part (i.e only
one glove in a pair).
• Don’t write directly on the fabric,
especially with pens or inks.
• Don’t create unnecessary
stitches.
• Don’t use colored threads unless
they are known to be stable.
• Don’t adhere adhesive labels to
textiles  staining will occur and
the adhesive can damage fibers.

13. Unbleached white cotton twill tape is ideal. It is available from
conservation suppliers and costs approximately $13 for a 72 yard roll. It
can also be used for tying labels onto other types of objects. Thread and
needles can be obtained from a local fabric store. B pencils can be
found at art supply stores.
White Cotton Twill Tape White cotton thread and needle.
Materials for Labeling Textiles
“B” graphite pencils

14. Guidelines for Labeling Objects – glass, metals,
ceramics and other inorganic materials
Do’s
• Label each object individually.
• If there are pieces that can be
easily detached, make sure these
are also labeled.
• Do apply a barrier resin (B-67 or
B-72 in acetone) to the object
prior to applying the label.
• Use Micron pigma pens to write
labels or print labels on acid-free,
buffered papers such as
Permadur.
• Label objects in the same place
for each type.
Don’ts
• Don’t just label one part.
• Don’t write directly on the object.
• Don’t use metal-nibbed pens or
quills  they will irreversibly
scratch or mar the surface.
• Don’t use barriers or inks that
have not been tested by
conservators (i.e. nail polish,
permanent markers, etc.).
• Don’t adhere adhesive labels to
objects.
• Don’t use colored inks (black
only).

15. Pre-mixed barriers (lacquers) are available from conservation suppliers
and cost around $8.00 and are come in clear and opaque white with
brush applicators. These can be used with pencils or pigma pens.
Labels can also be printed on acid- and lignin-free paper (available from
conservation suppliers) and adhered with the B-72 while wet.
For written labels, a barrier coat should be applied first and allowed to
dry. A second top coat should be applied after the numbers have dried.
Clear and Opaque White B-72
Lacquer in Acetone
Printed paper labels.Micron Pigma Pens - Black
Materials for Labeling Objects – glass, metals,
ceramics and other inorganic materials

16. Guidelines for Labeling Objects – rubber,
leather, wood, feathers and organic materials
Do’s
• Label each object individually.
• Do attach paper labels with soft
cotton thread.
• Use pencils or Micron pigma pens
to write labels or print labels on
acid-free, buffered papers such as
Permadur.
• Label objects in the same place
for each type.
• Label the outside of all housing
materials.
Don’ts
• Don’t just label one part.
• Don’t write directly on the object.
• Don’t use barrier layers (lacquers)
because they contain potentially
harmful solvents.
• Don’t use pens inks that have not
been tested by conservators
(permanent markers, etc.).
• Don’t adhere adhesive labels to
objects.
• Don’t use colored inks (black
only).

17. Archival tag kits are available from conservation suppliers and offer a
safe and easy to apply labeling system. A pack of 100 tags costs from
approximately $15 to $25 depending upon the size of the tag.
Acid- and lignin-free tags with
cotton ties
“B” graphite pencils &
black pigma pens
Materials for Labeling Objects – rubber,
leather, wood, feathers and organic materials
Printed paper labels.

18. Guidelines for Labeling Paper-Based Artifacts
Do’s
• Do write on the reverse of the
paper artifact.
• Use a soft ‘B’ pencil and do not
press down when writing.
• Label paper artifacts in the same
place on the reverse.
• Do label secondary supports and
framing materials (mats, mounts,
backings).
• Do label the outside of all
housing materials, including
boxes, folders, and frames.
Don’ts
• Don’t write on the front of the
paper artifact.
• Don’t use mechanical pencils or
hard pencils.
• Don’t use pens or inks of any
kind.
• Don’t use barrier layers (lacquers)
because they contain potentially
harmful solvents.
• Don’t adhere adhesive labels to
paper artifacts.
• Don’t clip or staple labels to
paper artifacts.

19. Only soft “B” graphite pencils should be used for marking paper. Write
gently to avoid leaving a permanent impression. Labeling kits for boxes
are available from conservation suppliers in a variety of sizes. For
example a set of 100 2.5” x 3.75” labels costs approximately $15.00.
You can add digital images and text and then print hem on a laser
printer. Or you can print your own labels on acid-free, buffered paper.
“B” graphite pencils Printed labels and Melinex
sleeves for boxes.
Printed paper label with
digital image.
Materials for Labeling Paper-Based Artifacts

20. Guidelines for Labeling Paintings
Do’s
• Do provide each painting with a
label(s).
• Apply a label to the backing
board. This can be written on the
board directly with a soft ‘B’
pencil.
• Apply a paper tag with a cotton
string to the framing hardware.
Don’ts
• Don’t write on directly on the
front or back of the painting.
• Don’t write directly on the frame.
• Don’t use pens or inks of any
kind.
• Don’t use barrier layers (lacquers)
because they contain potentially
harmful solvents.
• Don’t adhere adhesive labels to
the painting or framing materials.
• Don’t use metal wire to attach
the paper tags.

21. Only soft “B” graphite pencils should be used for marking the labels.
Archival tag kits are available from conservation suppliers and offer a
safe and easy to apply labeling system. Or you can print your own
labels on acid-free, buffered paper and attach them with cotton thread.
“B” graphite pencils Acid- and lignin-free tags
with cotton ties
Materials for Labeling Paintings

22. Material
• acid-free, chemically inert labels,
tags, paper, etc.
• Acryloid B-72 and B-76 (premixed
in acetone)
• Twill cotton tape
• “B” graphite pencils, small (000-
000) brushes, Pigma pens
• Glide dental floss
• Small gauge needle and white
cotton thread
Suppliers
• Gaylord, Light Impressions, Talas,
University Products
• Gaylord, Talas, University
Products
• Gaylord, Talas, University
Products
• Talas, local art supply stores
• Local drugstores
• Local fabric store
List of Suppliers for Labeling Materials

23. Collections Care and Conservation
Alliance
Working together to care for New England’s
cultural collections
 
collectionscare@gmail.com Tel. (802)428-4188
www.collectionscarealliance.wordpress.com and be sure to find us on Facebook