Vermicompost

www.natureherbs.org 2012

The Basics Of Composting

What Is Compost?

Compost is simply decomposed organic material. The organic material can be
plant material or animal matter. While composting may seem mysterious or
complicated, it’s really a very simple and natural process that continuously
occurs in nature, often without any assistance from mankind. If you’ve ever
walked in the woods, you’ve experienced compost in its most natural setting.
Both living plants and annual plants that die at the end of the season are
consumed by animals of all sizes, from larger mammals, birds, and rodents to
worms, insects, and microscopic organisms. The result of this natural cycle is
compost, a combination of digested and undigested food that is left on the
forest floor to create rich, usually soft, sweet-smelling soil.
Backyard composting is the intentional and managed decomposition of
organic materials for the production of compost, that magical soil enhancer
that is fundamental to good gardening. Anyone can effectively manage the
composting process. In fact, if you have organic matter, it’s virtually

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impossible to prevent decomposition. The trick is to maximize the process of
decomposition, while avoiding the unpleasant effects of the natural process of
decaying matter. Compost is good; sloppy garbage heaps and rotting food are
bad.

Why Is Compost So Good?
Compost is good for two very compelling reasons. It’s great for the garden, and
it’s environmentally responsible.

Garden Benefits
Compost is great for the garden because it improves the soil, which in turn
supports healthier and more productive plants. Compost provides virtually all
of the essential nutrients for healthy plant growth, and it almost always
releases those nutrients over time to give plants a slow, steady, consistent
intake of the elements essential for growth. Compost also improves the soil’s
structure, making it easier for soil to hold and use the right amount of
moisture and air. Compost will improve the texture of both clay and sandy
soil; indeed, compost is the best additive to make either clay or sandy soil into
rich, moisture holding, loamy soil. And, as an added benefit, compost
improves plant vigor and provides for improved immunology from diseases.

Environmental Benefits
The most obvious environmental benefit is that composting can significantly
reduce the amount of solid waste that would otherwise find its way into the
trash collection and dumping cycle. Clearly, the more we compost, the less we
contribute to the cost of trash removal and the volume of solid materials in
landfills. Using compost to feed your lawn and garden will also reduce your
dependency on chemical fertilizers. So, you’ll save money and reduce – if not
eliminate - the potential of chemical pollution to your little piece of the
environment. Using compost instead of chemical fertilizers will ensure that
your lawn and garden thrive in soil that is alive and healthy.

What’s The Best Way to Make Compost?
To make compost, you’ll need to dedicate some outdoor space to the process.
Ideally, the location of your compost production should be convenient to the
garden, as well as close to the source of the raw materials (kitchen scraps,
lawn clippings, etc.), without being an unappealing eyesore. Finding a good
spot for your compost pile might be a little bit easier if you have a lot of land;
but, even suburbanites and city dwellers can effectively maintain a compost



pile with a little bit of creativity and effort. And, the benefits – both to the
garden and the environment – far exceed the effort!

Open Bins or Containers

There are two basic kinds of compost piles: open bins and enclosed containers.
Open bins can be constructed with wood, chicken wire, or recycled plastic. Of
course, municipal large scale composting is often conducted in large open
piles without the use of any bins at all. These compost heaps are often turned
by bulldozers or other pieces of heavy equipment, so container walls are not
practical.
Enclosed containers for composting usually consist of one of two designs:
upright box-like containers, and rotating drums.

Advantages of Open Bin Composting
 Open bins easily collect rain water
 Open bins are very convenient for adding materials

Disadvantages of Open Bin Composting
 Open bins can attract rodents, flies, bees, and bears
 Open bins can become too wet, if not covered
 Open bins may be more difficult to mix (more on that later)
 Open bins may be an eyesore to your neighbors

Advantages of Compost Containers
 Compost containers will rarely attract pests
 Upright containers may be more aesthetically appealing
 Rotating drums are usually easier to mix or turn
 Rotating drums are easy to unload
 Rotating drums usually have “screening” options

Disadvantages of Compost Containers
 Enclosed containers usually require you to add water
 Upright containers may be very difficult to mix or turn



Two Chambers are Always Better than One
Whether you choose to use an open bin or a compost container, two chambers are
always better than one. In fact, if you are really serious about composting, having two
chambers is a necessity. Because the composting process takes at least several weeks
under the best conditions, you cannot add additional materials to the heap without
“resetting the clock” to day. To create an ideal batch of fully composted material, your
mix needs to “cook” for at least several weeks; if you add additional material, you’ll
have a mix of fully decomposed material, partially decomposed material, and fresh
materials. It’s simply much easier, and much more desirable to use a consistent
mixture of fully decomposed compost for gardening purposes. After all, you wouldn’t
want to buy a bag of potting soil that contained a rotting tomato in it!

Key Ingredients for Great Compost
One of the great aspects of composting is that the key ingredients are often things that
you’d be tempted to throw away. So, with just a little effort, you can contribute less to
the trash stream (good for the environment) and make great compost (good for your
garden).
Compost is created when you provide the right mixture of key ingredients for the
millions of microorganisms that do the dirty work. These microorganisms will eat,
multiply, and convert raw materials to compost as long as the environment is right.
The environment doesn’t have to be absolutely “perfect,” so you don’t need to be a
microbiologist or chemist to have successful compost. You need to provide: food,
water, and air.
The water and air are easy. The food is a little more complex. Food for your little
micro friends consists of two classes of materials, simply referred to as “Greens” and
“Browns.” Green materials are high in nitrogen, while brown materials are high in
carbon. The green materials provide protein for the micro bugs, while the brown
materials provide energy.

Typical green materials are:



 Fresh (green) Grass clippings
 Fresh manure (horse, chicken, rabbit, cow)
 Kitchen scraps (fruit, vegetables, coffee grounds, tea bags)
 Weeds
 Green leaves
 Leftover fruits from the garden

Typical brown materials include:



 Brown, dry leaves
 Dried grass
 Cornstalks (shredded)
 Straw
 Sawdust

Just like us, the little microorganisms need a balanced diet, along with water and air.
Too much, or too little of any ingredient significantly reduces their productivity. It is
hard to have too much of the brown category. As noted earlier, leaves in the forest
decompose without significant quantities of “green” components (although animal
droppings do contribute to the green part of the mix) – but, the decomposition takes a
little longer.
Too much green is usually the problem. A pile of kitchen garbage will never become
useful compost; it simply becomes a smelly pile of garbage. Landfills are not
composting sites. Most municipal composting operations begin with the huge
quantities of dry leaves that are collected each fall.
A good mix of browns and greens also helps the pile maintain the right amount of
moisture and air. A pile that is 100% grass clippings, for example, will quickly
become a matted, soggy mess, with too much moisture and too little air. It will
decompose, quickly at first, but then stall. Mix in some dry leaves, and you’ll have a
significantly more efficient mixture. The dry leave help maintain air pockets within
the pile and also provide a more balanced diet for the bacteria and fungi that cause the
decomposition.



The Ideal Combination of Browns and Greens
The best combination of browns and greens is about 4 parts of “browns” to one part
“greens” by volume. Of course, this is a rough approximation. If you have more
browns, you’ll still get compost. it’ll just take a little longer. If you are on the side of
too much green, you’ll likely have a smelly garbage heap.
The best source of brown material is dry leaves. In many parts of the country, the
annual fall clean-up of leaves from deciduous trees is seen as a necessary chore. I
choose to see it as the harvest for next year’s compost pile! Harvesting, shredding, and
storing dry leaves is the best thing you can do to create great compost. Use a leaf
vacuum or a lawn mower to shred the leaves, and collect them when they’re dry, if at
all possible. I like to store my stash of dry leaves in large plastic bags that I can hide
under my deck or porch until I need them to keep the greens in my compost bin
balanced.

"Hot" vs. "Cold" Composting
As noted earlier, decomposition occurs naturally, and, except for extreme conditions,
it’s virtually impossible to stop it. But, decomposition doesn’t necessarily
occur efficiently.
When we provide the micro bugs with a good mixture of browns and greens, as well
as some water and air, decomposition can be very efficient. This is known as “hot”
composting, sometimes call “aerobic” composting, because the microbes that require
air have sufficient air to live, eat, and reproduce quickly. The compost pile can attain
temperatures as high as 160 degrees Fahrenheit, which will kill some weed seeds,
make most of the microbes very active, but will deter worms and some other critters.
As the pile cools, the worms will return to assist in the decomposition. Hot
composting is fast, and a well maintained compost heap can fully decompose in
several weeks. While some ads claim that you can make compost in 14 days, I’ve
never experienced that phenomenon in over 25 years of careful composting.
"Cold" composting is slower, primarily because the environment is hospitable to
some of the micro bugs, but it’s hardly ideal. This is the form of composting that
almost always occurs in the forest, where the mix is often comprised of dry leaves and
dead wood. It will decompose over time, but the temperature never gets very high,
and the process can take years.
Our goal is to create a composting environment that is "hot". At least during the late
spring, summer, and early fall.

Getting Started – Activators, Worms, Microorganisms
You’ve built or bought a composter. You have some dry leaves and you’ll be adding



green materials (lawn clippings, kitchen waste, plant scraps) all summer. To some
extent, you’ll be layering these materials to provide both a balanced diet and the best
mix for air and water penetration.

How can you be sure that the composting will start?
Do you need to buy a “compost activator” or a batch of worms?
What if there aren’t any microorganisms in the mix?
No. No. and, Don’t Worry.
The microorganism essential to composting are plentiful in nature. (That’s why mom
always told us to wash our hands after playing outside!) If you’re starting with leaves
and other natural materials, you’ve got bacteria and fungi that are eager to help you
make compost. And, if you want to give the mix a little boost, one excellent and free
additive is simply a shovel full of good garden soil. Assuming that it hasn’t been
polluted with nasty chemicals, the soil is full of microbes that are eager to devour the
goodies in your compost pile.
Compost activators won’t hurt, but they may not help enough to justify the cost. Mike
McGrath, former editor of Organic Gardening magazine and host of the radio show
“You Bet Your Garden,” says that compost activators can be more helpful when the
compost heap is almost finished, vs. using them at the beginning of the cycle.
Worms can significantly improve your composting effectiveness, just as worms in the
garden can improve soil tilth. My open bin compost piles have a healthy supply of
worms, probably because I occasionally add a shovel full of good garden soil to my
bins.
Worm composting, or Vermicomposting, is a separate form of composting, which is
discussed later in this article.

Size Matters – Smaller is Better
While it’s nice to have a larger pile, to develop a good heat core, and to produce a nice
quantity of compost, the raw materials should be shredded whenever possible. Smaller
particles are simply easier to mix and easier for the little microbes to digest. Of
course, the micro bugs don’t eat the whole particle, but smaller particles of raw
materials means that you’ll have more surface area for the millions of microbes to do
their work.
So, in summary, you should aim for "big heap, small particles."



Worm Composting (Vermicomposting)

Worm composting is the process of using worms in a container to digest kitchen
vegetable scraps. The worms (red wigglers) eat the kitchen scraps and cast off their
waste to produce a very rich fertilizer. Most worm composting is done indoors,
usually in one’s basement. You’ll need to build or buy a worm composting “farm” if
you want to dispose of your kitchen scraps by vermicomposting. You can buy a very
effective worm composter and red worms from us.

What NOT to Do
Don’t add these ingredients to your compost pile:

Meat, Fish, animal fats – Unless you can completely bury them, you run the risk of
attracting unwanted visitors to your compost. You might be able to add very small
portions (remember the Native Americans used fish to fertilize their corn), but they
must be completely buried, and adding them makes turning or mixing the working



compost very problematic.

Shredded Newspapers or Office Paper – Recycle them instead. The paper very
likely contains chemicals that are not good for your compost. Newspaper shredders
were very popular years ago, but the risk of adding ink chemicals isn’t worth it. By all
means, recycle your paper and save trees, but don’t put them in your compost pile.

Ashes from Your BBQ Grill – Another no-no. Wood ashes can be very useful in
small quantities. And, wood ashes can be helpful for certain lawn applications. But,
never put BBQ grill ashes into your compost pile.

Dog and Cat Feces – Are never good for your compost. There’s simply too much risk
of adding nasty diseases, not to mention the unpleasant odor! Chicken, horse, cow,
and rabbit manure is fine…in moderation. If you have access to these very high
nitrogen sources, compost them. They’re too “hot” for most direct applications to the
garden. But, remember your brown to green ratio of 4-to-1. And, chicken manure is
green, in composting terms… even though it’s brown in appearance.

Be Careful When Adding These Ingredients!

Sawdust – Because of it's very high carbon content, and its very small particle size,
sawdust can overwhelm a compost pile. But, it can also be quite useful if you have an
overload of green material. I add some from my woodworking shop when I have a lot
of extra fruit in my pile at the end of the season. Avoid using sawdust that came from
Black Walnut wood, as it contains a chemical that will stunt or prevent the growth of
some plants, tomatoes in particular.

Wood Shavings, Chips, and Bark – Like sawdust, the carbon content can
overwhelm, and shut down, an otherwise good compost mix. Set them aside, if
possible, and let them decompose the old fashioned way, over time ("cold"
decomposition).



When and How to Use Compost

Soil Building – Compost is the single best additive for good, even great, garden soil.
It improves tilth, fertility, water retention for sandy soils, water drainage for clay soils,
and improves your soil’s disease fighting characteristics. Add compost in spring and
fall, and till it in.

Garden Fertilizer – Compost can be used throughout the season as a garden
fertilizer. Simply side dress vegetables and flowers for a slow-release food source and
improved disease prevention.

Lawn Feeding – Screened compost (compost that has been sifted to collect the
smaller particles) can be applied as a lawn fertilizer throughout the season. It will
provide a wonderful slow-release food as well as assist in lawn disease prevention.
And, given that the nutrients aren’t as concentrated as in chemical lawn foods, you’ll
avoid the stripes that can easily occur when incorrectly applying chemicals. You’ll
avoid chemical run-off, and you’ll save money. Your lawn will be alive, with
earthworms (natures aerators) and beneficial microbes.

Compost vs. Mulch – Mulch is any material that is applied to the garden’s surface to
prevent weed germination and to reduce water evaporation. Compost will help build
the soil, and it will help retain moisture; but, it won’t do a lot to prevent weeds. It’s an
ideal growing medium; so, weeds are likely to be very comfortable in it. Use shredded
leaves for mulch, or a combination of shredded leaves and lawn clippings. The
combination of lawn clipping and shredded leaves creates an attractive mulch that
won’t blow away (as leaves alone tend to do) and allows water penetration (as grass
clippings alone tend to matt and repel water).

Potting Mix (seed starting, potted plants) – Compost can be used to create a very
good seed starting mix, or it can be added to potting soil to create a nutrient-rich
mixture. Most commercial potting mix is made from Canadian peat moss, which is
virtually void of nutrients, so the addition of good compost provides a real boost.
"hot" compost, which has been produced at higher temperatures, is less likely to
contain a lot of weed seeds. However, some of the fungi in compost may contribute to
“damping off” of seedlings when compost is used for seed starting. To be safe, you



should consider “sterilizing” the compost before using it as a potting mix. You can
sterilize compost by microwaving it, baking it in an oven, or pouring boiling water
over it. Of the three methods, the boiling water treatment is the neatest and cleanest.
Simply put the compost in a large flower pot and soak it with boiling water from a
teapot or saucepan.

How to know compost is ready to use?
The point at which the compost is ready varies depending on how the compost will be
used. In general, though, compost is ready when it's dark and crumbly and mostly
broken down with a pleasant, earthy, soil-like smell to it.

Unfinished Compost
For most uses it is acceptable to have some recognizable pieces of leaves or straw
remaining in your compost. However, you should not use partly finished compost
either as a seed starter mix or in areas where heavy nitrogen feeding plants are to be
grown. Because unfinished compost is still actively breaking down, organisms in the
material continue to take nitrogen from their surroundings. When mixed with the soil,
the organisms will begin to draw the nitrogen from the soil in order to have the energy
to continue the decomposition process. The result is a nitrogen defecit in the soil to
the detriment of the plants in the area. Signs of nitrogen deficiency are stunted plant
growth, yellowing leaves often near the bottom of the plant, light green or yellow
foliage and weak stems.
Unfinished compost has also been known to damage or "burn" some plants and plant
roots. This is a result of the heat given off by the decomposition process. When using
unfinished compost it is a good idea to leave a few inches between the material and
the stems of plants.
Unfinished compost has also been shown to inhibit the germniation of seeds. If
unfinished compost is to be applied to areas where seeds will be sown it should be
done six to eight weeks before seeding begins. Ideally, compost should be applied in
the fall for an area that will be seeded the following spring.

Compost is unparalleled as a soil conditioner for:
 house plants
 lawns
 trees & shrubs
 annuals
 perrenials



 bulb plantings
 flower beds
 vegetable beds
 potted plants / container plantings

Indoor Plants
Wait until your compost is completely finished before you use it for indoor plants.
Established house plants will benefit from an inch of compost mixed into the top inch
or two of soil.
Potted Plants / Container Plantings
Container plantings will benefit enormously from the addition of compost to
the potting soil. Ensure that you use only mature compost in your containers
to avoid burning any tender stems or roots.
Here is a good recipe for a compost based potting mix suitable for containers:
 1 part compost
 1 part sharp sand
 1 part perlite
 1 part peat or good soil

New planting areas
Give new planting areas a boost by digging in as much compost as you can spare (up
to four inches) into the top six to twelve inches of garden soil.

Established planting areas
Established plantings will benefit from an inch or two of compost worked into the top
few inches of soil. Be sure to leave a gap between the compost and the base of the
plant to avoid burning the stems. The nutrients will find their way down to the plant
roots.

Top dressing an Established Lawn
Spread up to ½" of finished compost over an established lawn. Compost used as a top
dressing for lawns should be fully broken down. Running the compost through a fine
compost screen is a good idea to keep out any chunky bits. Large areas should be
covered with a fertilizer spreader but smaller areas may be spread by hand or with a
shovel. Aerating your lawn prior to spreading compost will be of additional benefit,
enabling the compost to filter down under the sod more easily.



For new lawns
Starting a new lawn is often challenging, particularly in areas with new homes where
the builders have removed the original topsoil. The addition of compost to the existing
soil can greatly improve the chance that a new lawn will take hold and thrive. Up to
three inches of compost worked into the top six inches of soil will give the new lawn
an excellent start. Either sod or grass seed can be placed on top of the amended soil.

Around trees and Shrubs
Spread a once to two inch layer over the soil surface starting from six inches from the
trunk out to the edge of the dripline of the tree or shrub.
Making a compost pile is like making a giant layer cake! Well, not exactly but you
will soon see what we mean.

But first, a few words about the amount of brown (carbon) material, versus green
(nitrogen) material to put into your compost bin. Adding too much brown material
will result in a pile that takes a long time to break down wheras too much green
material will result in a slimy, smelly pile that doesn't heat up effectively. In order for
our pile to break down quickly and efficiently we need to provide just the right
balance of brown and green materials.

The microorganisms in our compost bins need both carbon and nitrogen to thrive;
carbon for energy and nitrogen for protein synthesis. For every one unit of nitrogen
used by the bacteria they also consume about 30 units of carbon. And so in order to
keep the bacteria working efficiently we need to create an environment for them that
is approximately 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen.

Unfortunately, most composting materials don't have a carbon to nitrogen (C:N) ratio
of 30:1. However, if we know the approximate C:N ratio of the materials we use in
our compost, we can combine them so that the total mixture will be as near as possible
to 30:1. This may sound a bit complicated but it really isn't.

For an example:

We want to have a ratio of 30:1 in our compost bin but we only have access to the
following ingredients:

· dry autumn leaves (C:N of about 50:1)
· kitchen scraps (vegetable & fruit peelings, coffee grounds etc: about 12:1)
· grass clippings (about 20-30:1)
· sawdust (fresh: 500:1, rotted 200:1)



Using different combinations of materials we will try to get close to the magic 30:1
ratio. If we use 1 part dry leaves to 1 part kitchen scraps we would have the following:

leaves 50/1 + kitchen scraps 12/1 = 62/2 = 31/1 or 31:1

If we use 1 part leaves, 1 part kitchen scraps and 1 part grass clippings we would
have:
50/1 + 12/1 + 20/1 =82/3 = 27:1. Not too bad. In this example we can add some extra
leaves or a handful or two of sawdust to bump up the ratio nearer to 30:1

Getting the mix of ingredients right is obviously not an exact science but a matter of
trial and error. It's something that gets easier after a few tries.

Making the Compost Pile
Start with a 4 inch layer of brush, twigs, hay or straw at the bottom of the compost
bin. If you don't have these materials, dry leaves will do. This first layer should be as
coarse as possible to allow air to be drawn up into the pile from the bottom of the bin.

Then add a 4 inch layer of brown material, then a thin covering of finished compost or
good garden soil. That's one layer. The addition of compost or soil is to provide the
necessary bacteria to get the compost to start breaking down. If we don't add this layer
the compost will still work, the addition just helps to speed things along.

Then add a 4 inch layer of green material topped with a thin layer of an activator.
Activators are a source of both nitrogen and protein, ingredients that assist the
organisms to break down the material. There are a number of good activators. Alfalfa
meal works amazingly well. You can also use fresh manure, bone meal, blood meal,
cottonseed meal, or even high-protein dry dog food.

Moisture
Moisten each layer by misting it lightly with a garden hose. The key is to moisten the
pile without making it too wet and soggy. Many people recommend adding moisture
until the material is as moist as a wrung out sponge. This is far too wet. If you can
squeeze water out of it, it's far too wet. Adding some dry brown materials such as
chopped leaves or hay will help if this happens.



If you live in a very arid climate, make an indentation in the top of the pile to collect
rainwater and help keep the pile moist. Those living in rainy areas can cover the top of
the pile with a tarpaulin or cover to keep it from becoming waterlogged.

Measuring Moisture in Your Compost Pile

Acheiving the correct moisture content is an important factor in keeping a compost
pile working efficiently.

A moisture content of between 50-60% is desirable in an active compost pile but how
many of us know how to measure moisture? Sure, there are highly technical and
complicated ways to calculate moisture content but we are not interested in anything
so technical and complicated.

Here is a simple, time-tested way to judge the moisture content in your compost. First,
take a handful of compost from the center of your pile and squeeze it in your hand:

· If you can squeeze water out of it, the compost is too wet
· If the compost does not release water but crumbles apart when released, it's too
dry
· If the compost does not release water but stays compacted, it's just right

For those who feel the need for a slightly more technical method:

· Weigh a sample of your compost
· Dry the compost throroughly (you can use a conventional oven on low heat for
a few hours)
· Weigh the dried compost
· Subtract the dry weight from the wet weight
· Divide by the wet weight and multiply by 100. Voila! A more accurate reading
of moisture content

Turning the Compost Pile
If the pile has been made correctly the internal temperature should reach about 140° F
within 7-10 days. Ideally, the pile should heat up to 160° F so that any weed seeds and
pathogens will be destroyed. A compost thermometer is a helpful tool to use at this
stage. Since the bacteria need air to survive they will start to die off after a week or so
as they start to use up the available air in the pile. This drop in the amount of bacteria
will result in the compost pile cooling off a bit from it's peak temperature. When this



happens it's time to turn the pile to get more air into it.

When turning your compost pile, move the drier material from the outer edges into the
center of the pile and break up any clumps of leaves or grass clippings to ensure that
you get as much air into the pile as you can. Moisten any of the materials as you go, if
they seem too dry.

From this point on you should turn the pile every 14 days or so, or when you see the
temperature fall from the next peak in termperature of about 110° - 120° F. In general,
the more you turn the pile the faster you will have finished compost. If you're using a
plastic compost bin, an aerator tool will make the job of turning much easier. A
garden fork is often the best tool for turning compost in an open style bin.

What should I do if I don't have enough materials to fill the compost bin all at once?
When you can get your hands on some brown materials such as autumn leaves, save
them in bags or a separate bin nearby your compost bin. When you have added
enough green material to your compost bin to make a four inch layer, cover it with a 4
inch layer of the saved brown material. Then you can start building another green
layer.

Green Composting Materials

Compared to brown materials, green compost materials are much higher in nitrogen.
Nitrogen is an important element in amino acids and proteins, and is a vital protein
source for the compost microbes, helping to speed up the process of decomposition.

Green materials that are very high in nitrogen should be used sparingly, especially
fresh grass clippings.

Vegetable Peelings (12:1)

This category consists of any pieces of fruits and vegetables. Most of us have an
endless supply of this type of material: potato peelings, apple cores, banana peels, any
bits and pieces of uncooked vegetables that would otherwise have gone into the
garbage bin! It is best to avoid using cooked vegetables in your compost because oils
used in cooking will slow down decomposition and may attract rodents and other
animals. One solution for those who wish to compost cooked vegetables is to use a
closed plastic bin with wire mesh on the bottom.



Grass Clippings (20-30:1)

Grass clippings are very high in nitrogen. While that may seem like a good thing, and
it is, there are also a few things to consider. First, it is often best to leave grass
clippings on the lawn where they will decompose naturally and help to feed the soil.

If you do want to add grass clippings to your compost use them sparingly at first,
adding a very thin layer on top of a layer of brown materials, or by mixing them
thoroughly with other green materials. If they are applied too thickly they tend to form
slimy clumps or mats that do not permit air circulation. The mats do not break down
very well and and release an unpleasant smelling (but harmless) ammonia gas.

Fresh Manure (Various)

Poultry (7:1), Sheep (16:1), Horse (22:1), Cow (18:1)

Manure is a valuable ingredient in any compost pile. It contains a high level of
nitrogen which will help to get the pile "cooking" quickly. It is acceptable to use
manure from horses, cows, chickens, rabbits, sheep, goats and bats (guano) in your
compost.

Important: Do not use manure from dogs, cats, pigs or humans in your compost pile
or in your garden as they can contain harmful parasites and can cause diseases in
humans. It is also advisable never to use any fresh manure in your garden unless it
has been composted first.

"...would your coffee shop be willing to exchange used coffee grounds for some
customer loyalty?"
If you don't have access to manure, don't worry. There are lots of alternative
ingredients that are high in nitrogen that will give your compost pile a boost.
Ingredients such as grass clippings, seaweed, and vegetable scraps will do the trick!

Coffee Grounds (20:1)

Coffee grounds are high in nitrogen and really help to heat up your compost. You can
compost any kind of coffee grounds and if you use a paper filter just toss it in as well.



Many coffee shops collect their used coffee grounds and provide them free of charge
to their customers. Check with your local coffee shop to find out if there is a program
in your area. If there isn't, why not get together with other local gardeners and petition
the coffee shop that you patronise to start a program. Would your local coffee shop be
willing to exchange their used coffee grounds for customer loyalty? You bet!

Coffee grounds can also be used directly in the garden as a mulch for acid loving
plants such as Azelieas and Rhododendrons.

"If you live in an area where seaweed is available, consider yourself blessed..."

Seaweed (19:1)

If you live in an area where seaweed is available consider yourself blessed. You have
an almost endless supply of nutrient-rich composting material. The addition of
seaweed helps to get a compost pile to heat up due to it's high nitrogen content. Most
people rinse the seaweed before adding to the pile to remove excess salt.

Plants and Plant Cuttings (20-40:1)

Most plants and plant cuttings can be composted including annual weeds without
mature seeds, any remains of spent or harvested plants and flower tops collected from
deadheading.

Brown Composting Materials

Composting relies on the right ingredients to be successful. Brown materials such as
leaves, straw, hay and sawdust are high in carbon and are a source of energy for the
compost microbes.

Leaves (50-80:1)

Leaves are generally an excellent ingredient for your compost. Those living in areas
with a large bounty of autumn leaves should make the most of it and find some
neighbours willing to pass on their leaves. Many neighbours will do the raking for you
if you agree to cart away the piles!

Living green leaves are considered "green materials", wheras the dead, dry leaves that



fall from the trees in autumn are seen as "brown materials".

Autumn leaves are a great source of carbon and contain a surprising amount of
nutrients that can be returned to the soil through compost. Although whole leaves are
acceptable, it is better to shred the leaves before adding to the compost pile.
Unshredded leaves tend to mat together excluding air from the pile. Leaves can be
shredded in a number of ways:

· using a commercial shredder or chipper
· by pushing a lawn mower back and forth over a pile of leaves a few times. The
use of a mulching mower blade will help.
· shred leaves in a large garbage can with a lawn trimmer
· Remember to wear eye protection regardless of the method you choose.

There are a few types of leaves that need special attention when composting:

walnut leaves contain a substance that inhibits the growth of many plants. As a result,
walnut leaves should either be very thoroughly composted or omitted altogether
oak leaves take a very long time to break down because of their acidity and high
levels of tannin. They will break down into a wonderful amendment for acid loving
plants but it will take much longer than with other leaves. It is often a good idea to
keep them separate to allow the main compost pile to finish sooner. A separate pile
can then be made of oak leaves that can be used for plants that prefer an acid soil.
Waxy leaves also take longer to break down such as those of the holly, laurel, rose,
pine and rhododendron. They are often best composted separately

Legume Hay (15:1) and Non-Legume Hay (30:1)

All types of spoiled hay make an excellent addition to the compost pile.

Straw: (80:1)

Straw provides less nitrogen than hay but contributes more than double the carbon.
Straw decomposes quite slowly so it's an especially good addition in areas with heavy
clay soil. The remaining straw particles in the finished compost help to open up the
soil structure.

Paper & Cardboard (150-200:1)

Paper such as newspaper, bills, paper towels, tissues can be composted but it should



be shredded first. Avoid adding glossy and highly coloured papers. Stiff cardboard
should be broken into small pieces or made into a slurry before it's added to the pile.

Eggshells

Eggshells contain calcium and are a useful addition to the comost pile. The shells do
take a long time to break down so it's a good idea to crush them before adding. Do not
include whole eggs in your compost, just the shells.

Tea Bags

Both black tea and herbal teas can be composted, whether loose leaves or in bags.

Sawdust* (400:1)

Sawdust and wood chips contain very low amounts of nitrogen and are very slow to
break down in the compost pile. Use sawdust in very thin layers or mix thoroughly
with a green material such as kitchen scraps or grass clippings. Large wood chips will
take a very long time to break down and are often put to better use as a mulch.

*Be careful not to compost any sawdust or wood that has been "pressure treated" or
otherwise treated with a chemical preservative. Pressure treated wood (often
recognizible by a greenish tint) has been shown to leach arsenic into the soil when
used for making playground equipment, compost bins and raised beds. For more
information see the section on "what not to add to a compost pile".

Wood Ashes (25:1)

Wood Ashes are an excellent source of calcium and potassium but are also very
alkaline. Use sparingly to avoid high pH levels that limit microbial activity. Avoid
composting charcoal briquettes as they take too long to break down. Also, avoid
composting the ashes created from commercially made "firelogs" which often contain
wax and other petroleum derivatives.

Vermi composting is an eco-friendly technology. Application of vermin-
culture technology in the recycling of Sericultural waste and other wastes has a
tremendous potential. It is estimated that, by recycling (3) times in a year the
farmer may get approximately 15 tones of vermin compost manure.



Vermi composing is a technology of using earthworms as versatile natural
bio-reactor for rapid conversion of any organic wastes under value added
manure. The earthworms feed on the wastes of organics origin, which is rich
in NPK, micro nutrients, enzymes and vitamins suitable for crop growth
besides number of useful micro organisms.

Cost details for construction of Four tanks with Shed



S. Particulars Quantity Amount (Rs.)
No.
1 Bricks 1000 No 3000.00
2 Cement 8 Bags 1,200.00
3 Sand 2 cart loads 150.00
4 Jelly 1 cart load 500.00
5 Stone poles or pillers 3 No ( 10’ height) 2,250.00
6 No (7’ height)
6 Nilgiri or Casurina poles ( for roofing ) 16 No 1,200.00
7 Local wood reapers( to fix tiles) if tiles are used 24 No 800.00
8 Tiles 800 No 4,000.00
9 Labour charges ( Carpentry & mason) 2,000.00
10 Miscellaneous 700.00
11 Cost of earthworms 5200.00

For construction of 4 cement tanks with measurement of 3.00 mts x 1.5 mt
with a depth of 1.00 mt and the shed size is 8mt x 4 mt with a height of 10 feet
tiled or Asbestos sheets.


Vermicompost

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