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Champions of Design 2
More observations on creativity for competitive advantage from jkr
Andy Knowles began his career marketing Heineken and Stella Artois at
Whitbread before co-founding jkr. Now chairman, he’s as interested as ever
in lively debate around what gets packaging noticed and chosen.

Silas Amos was a founder designer at jkr in 1990. He writes our daily Design
Gazette online and is focused on creative strategy as a day job.

James Joice joined jkr in 2010. He spends his time scoping out opportunities,
establishing new partnerships and helping brands use design to drive growth.

jones knowles ritchie specialise in creating eye-catching design to help
people choose quickly, happily and confidently.

www.jkrglobal.com
We wish to express our thanks to the manufacturers of the products and services
portrayed in this publication. Copyright of the images and trademarks used is that
of the legal owner whose moral rights are acknowledged.
All rights in the text used in this publication are reserved exclusively to Jones Knowles
Ritchie Limited, except as may otherwise have been acknowledged. No part of this
publication may be reproduced without the written permission of the copyright owner.
First published by Jones Knowles Ritchie in December 2012.
jkr Brand First Books
128 Albert Street
London
NW1 7NE
Champions of Design 2
    More observations on creativity for
     competitive advantage from jkr




By Andy Knowles, Silas Amos & James Joice
     With additional copy by John Naughton
Introduction
It isn’t often that a design agency praises the work of its rivals but this year we are
doing it for a second time, and with even greater enthusiasm.
We have increased the number of our champions to thirty-five and tried to include more
winners from the supermarket aisle, not just high-end shops.
Our aim is to celebrate great works of design wherever we find them and to give credit
equally to the people who created them and the clients who bought them.
We collected their stories from a series called ‘Champions of Design’ that we publish
throughout the year – not in design magazines but in Marketing.
There is a little self-interest here. The more marketing people who grow to love great
design and value its contribution to their brands the easier our job will be if we are
fortunate enough to work with them.
Over and above this we simply want to share our appreciation of these enthralling
enterprises, they never fail to inspire us. They are confirmation classes in our own
deep-held beliefs. Which are?
1.  esign is not separate from the product, it is part of it. It should emerge so naturally
   D
   from the brand that it feels and sounds right, like the voice of a friend. If design is
   simply bolted on or used as wrapping paper the cracks will show and the product inside
   won’t last very long.
2.  eople will pay a little more for something they want and a lot more for something they
   P
   want very much. (Think of the last thing you wanted desperately and ask yourself what
   part its design played in its attraction.)
3.  s each of our champions illustrates, design pays for itself many times over. Few other
   A
   investments show such a great return. Of course we would say this, you might be
   thinking, but over 22 years as a design agency we have found it to be true.
These are the main lessons we take from the case histories in this book but there is another.
A truly great design is inimitable: once you have it it’s yours forever. Competitors may try to
copy you but they will only come second at best.
All of which may sound very fine in retrospect but how do you recognise a great design
in the first place?
Speaking for ourselves we think the answer is viscerally. We feel a mixture of admiration
and envy. We wish we’d done it.
If you share these feelings when you turn the pages this book will have done its job.
Contents
   Toblerone	8       Roberts Revival	   44




   Jägermeister	12   MTV	48




   Perrier	16        Paul Smith	        52




   Staedtler	20      Yorkshire Tea	     56




   Hermès	24         Pez	60




   Moleskine	28      Toms	64




   illy	32           Pret A Manger	     68




   Playmobil	36      Monocle	72




   Citroën	40        Muji	76
Contents
    Sailor Jerry	   80   Dr Martens	    116




    Cohiba	84            Kiwi	120




    Chanel No 5	    88   Kenwood	124




    Jif 	92              Ricard	128




    Hunter	96            Benefit	       132




    Wagamama	100         Supreme	136




    Mulberry	104         Crayola	140




    Tunnock’s	108        Chupa Chups	   144




    Howies	112
Toblerone
How do you develop a USP when you’re just another chocolate
manufacturer in Switzerland? Answer: fill your chocolate
with a sticky nougat and mould it into a series of triangles
which people subliminally assume to be a representation
of the Alps. Toblerone might not be regarded as the highest
quality Swiss chocolate, but it’s certainly the first one
you’d pick out in an identity parade. In a very crowded
marketplace, that is surely just as important.




What defines an ‘iconic’ design? It’s an overused      Rather it’s Toblerone and it resides in a category
expression, but, by my reckoning, Toblerone            of one. For proof of its genius, consider that
fits the bill. For me, an iconic design features       Albert Einstein (employed by the Swiss Federal
a graphical or stylistic property that symbolises      Institute for Intellectual Property in Bern) supposedly
the brand’s values and attributes, thereby creating    signed off the design – some endorsement.
charisma. One also has to apply best practice:         Another myth? Perhaps. But when the legend
the tenacity, over many years, to focus on the core    becomes fact, print the legend.
iconography and keep investing it with meaning.
                                                       A top tip: if struggling to separate the last two
Toblerone has a distinctive shape and comes in         segments of a big bar, use two fingers to push
a distinctively shaped pack. One that looks like       the mountain tips together. They will snap apart
a mountain, of which you find many in Switzerland.     with ease. Some designs you just love, in all their
So this is definitively ‘Swiss’ chocolate. In truth,   dimensions. This is one of them. SA
mountains might not have inspired the original
shape, but original intentions are irrelevant – myth
and meanings attach themselves to iconic brands
like iron filings to a magnet.
It all sounds simple, but such apparent simplicity
is a spark of genius. Over time, the iconography
has allowed the pack to transcend its category.
This is no longer another chocolate bar.
8
9
Timeline
                                     1868
                                     Jean Tobler, the father of Theodor Tobler,
                                     opened a sweet shop in Bern, Switzerland.

            Toblerone logo
                                     1900
                                     Theodor took over the company.


                                     1908
          Vintage advertising        Theodor and cousin Emil Baumann created
                                     the recipe for Toblerone. They chose a unique
                                     triangular shape for the bar.


                                     1909
                                     Theodor Tobler patented the process for making
            Toblerone tram           Toblerone and the brand.


                                     1969
                                     A dark version of Toblerone was launched, followed
                                     four years later by a white-chocolate version.



           Advertising, 2009
                                     2008
                                     Toblerone celebrated its 100th anniversary.


                                     2010
                                     The chocolate bars became one triangle shorter
                                     to ensure the price stayed the same, despite the
     Toblerone Valentine’s Day box   rising cost of ingredients.




10
Did you know?
                                                       One of the following six pieces of information is bogus. Can you find the confection of deceit lurking below?*
Toblerone ‘Welcome to the Jungle’ advertising, 2003.




                                                        1.  he Croatian
                                                           T                            3.  n 1995, Swedish
                                                                                           I                             4. Dragon’s teeth,                       6.  0cc were originally
                                                                                                                                                                      1
                                                           equivalent of                   politician, Mona                  pyramidal anti-tank                      called Toblerone,
                                                           Toblerone is                    Sahlin, bought two                fortifications first                     but were forced to
                                                           called Kolumbo.                 bars of Toblerone                 used in World War II,                    change their name
                                                                                           among other things                are commonly known                       because of fears
                                                                                           on a credit card                  as ‘Toblerone lines’.                    about copyright
                                                         2. A complex of
                                                                                          supposed to be                                                             infringement.
                                                            Manchester                     used only for
                                                            University student             government                    5.  he largest ever
                                                                                                                            T
                                                            flats on the Oxford            business. The                    Toblerone bar
                                                            Road with low                  ensuing scandal,                 weighed 102kg
                                                            walls and a large              known as the                     and is almost
                                                            sloping triangular             Toblerone Affair,                one metre long.
                                                            roof is known as               forced her to
                                                            ‘the Toblerones’.              resign. A similar
                                                                                           storyline was
                                                                                           employed in the
                                                                                           Danish political
                                                                                           drama, Borgen.




                                                                                                                           upon 10cc, but none of them was Toblerone. Six is therefore the ringer.
                                                                                                                           *The Mancunian art rockers were known by a variety of names prior to settling

                                                                                                                                                                                                    11
Jägermeister
The marketing of Jägermeister is the stuff of legend. It has
transformed an unknown, vaguely medicinal drink with
an uncertain and slightly sinister past into a best-seller –
synonymous with music, youth, sport and hedonism. The late
marketing genius Sidney Frank is the man to take most credit
for this. His techniques are widely studied, but he started
with a simple premise. He simply described it as ‘the best
drink in the world’.




Like Danny DeVito, Jägermeister demonstrates            We should, however, recognise that the initially
that popularity need not depend on either stature       unappealing package was imbued with charisma
or beauty. Its packaging is a car-crash of an old-      by the innovative marketing of wily distributors
school Gothic logo-type atop a blaze of bright          Sidney Frank Importing. Godfather to many a
orange on a scrum-hooker bottle, but it oozes           premium drink, including Grey Goose, they fuelled
authenticity and power. Perhaps Jägermeister is         Jägermeister’s export growth by first introducing
so kitsch it’s cool?                                    it to US drinkers with a squad of shapely ambassadors
Among more sophisticated peers it is certainly          in the on-trade.
something of an iconoclast, but its butch name          Jägermeister’s now triumphant place near the top
and packaging bestow it with a character the logic      of the global spirits sector is testimony to how
of group discussion would never predict.                distinctive design, if given the time to wear in,
Logic be damned. Brands accrue meaning from             provides enduring gain. AK   
use, not the other way around. Younger drinkers
will frequently make traditional brands contemporary
by bending them to their cause.
The now ubiquitous Jägerbomb could be put down
to a lucky bounce – like cider over ice. The idea was
adopted and disseminated by cutting-edge
consumers and bartenders.
12
13
Timeline
                                                   1878
                                                   Wilhelm Mast opened a vinegar production
                                                   plant. It served the nearby mines, which used
                                                   it to cool the rocks before extraction.


                 Advertising, 1970s                1947
                                                   His son, Curt Mast, who had branched out into
                                                   spirit-making in the 1930s, resumed production
                                                   following a hiatus during World War II.



     Sponsorship of Eintracht Braunschweig, 1973
                                                   1972
                                                   Jägermeister began sponsoring motor-racing,
                                                   including teams in Formula One and the
                                                   German Touring Car Masters. It continued
                                                   until 2000.


                Jägermeister flying bar            1973
                                                   The Jägermeister logo appeared on the shirts
                                                   of players at Eintracht Braunschweig football
                                                   club. A brief legal battle with the German
                                                   Football Association led to the brand
                                                   becoming the first to advertise on team
                                                   shirts in the German football league.
           Jägermeister Porsche Turbo RSR


                                                   2010
                                                   Jägermeister achieved record sales of
                                                   82.4 million bottles, despite the onset of the
                                                   global economic crisis. The UK became
                                                   the drink’s third-biggest market, following
                                                   Germany and the US.
                ‘Live Loud’ campaign

                                                   2011
                                                   The drink once again achieved record sales,
                                                   with 87.1 million bottles sold in more than
                                                   90 countries. Sales in the UK exceeded 5 million
                                                   bottles for the first time.




14
Did you know?
Hunt for the truth in one of these at your peril.*




 1.  hen the drink was
    W                            3. Jägerbombs,               5. A (false) rumour
                                                                                                   6.  he company’s logo
                                                                                                       T
    launched in 1935,                comprising a                 spread around                        has been interpreted
    Hermann Göring                   shot glass of                mid-70s Baton                        erroneously as
    occupied the position            Jägermeister mixed           Rouge, Louisiana,                    a symbolic
    of Reichsjägermeister            with Red Bull, have          that the drink                       representation of
    and was on familiar              been banned in               contained opiates.                   the phrase, ‘Oh
    terms with the                   parts of Australia.          After the story was                  Dear God.’ Perhaps
    liqueur’s inventor,                                           picked up by the                     a familiar refrain to
    Carl Mast. Therefore,                                         local paper, sales                   those who have
    Jägermeister became          4. Psychostick,                 rocketed from                        partaken too freely.
    known in some                    a self-styled                10 to 1,000 cases                    The surrounding
    quarters as ‘Göring-             humorous band                per month.                           circle is the ‘O(h)’,
    Schnapps’.                       from Arizona,                                                     the stag is ‘dear’
                                     have written The                                                  and the cross
                                     Jägermeister Love Song.                                           represents ‘God’.
 2. Every bottle                    Sample lyric, ‘You
     of Jägermeister                 look your best
     contains eight                  when my vision is
     drops (0.4ml)                   blurry/That’s not
     of deer blood.                  what I meant,
                                     I can’t keep from
                                     slurring.’

                                                                        of urban legend, it is categorically untrue.
                                                                        *Although the deer blood story at number two has become the stuff

                                                                                                                                     15
Perrier
Perrier is simultaneously a design classic and an eco-nightmare.
Divorced from its teardrop-shaped bottle it doesn’t seem
half the product. Yet, its strong sales continue to defy
economic downturn and the flak directed at the whole
concept of bottled water. Its perennially chic image will be put
to even greater test over the coming years, but ever-inventive
ad campaigns have so far been equal to the challenge.




Although it pains us to admit it, there are some         In recent times, growing concerns about
French qualities we simply have to admire.               sustainability and a stuttering economy have
Perrier is the embodiment of many of them:               taken some of the shine off bottled mineral
effortlessly stylish, alluringly sophisticated and       waters. Both our consciences and our wallets
unapologetically stubborn. For while the droplet-        find it a more difficult purchase to justify,
shaped bottle is beautiful and distinctive, it is also   a truth that the UNICEF Tap project has
impractical. Its curvature and singular contact          exploited to brilliant effect.
point make it difficult to get down a production
                                                         Perrier has found ways to stay relevant though.
line with any speed.
                                                         Its limited-edition designs with well-chosen
That’s what makes it the genuine article; it’s too       partners keep the brand feeling fresh. They also
sure of itself to worry about such practicalities.       demonstrate the distinctiveness of its core identity.
Perrier is brimming with authenticity and that’s         For even when it lends its pack canvas to someone
why it sells 1 billion bottles a year.                   else, it remains unmistakably Perrier. JJ
The brand didn’t just make mineral water an
acceptable soft drink – it made it aspirational.
As the line ‘the Champagne of waters’ brilliantly
expressed, you really did feel like you were having
a special moment when you fizzed open a bottle
of Perrier. It was a truly status-affirming brand.
16
17
Timeline
                                   1863
                                   Napoleon III gave mineral water status to a
                                   spring in Vergèze.

      La Femme Noire, Villemot
                                   1898
                                   Dr Louis Perrier bought a spring in southern
                                   France and began to sell bottled water from his spa.


                                   1903
                                   Sir Saint-John Harmsworth invested in the
         L’Etreinte, Villemot      company, renaming the spring ‘Source Perrier’.


                                   1985
                                   Perrier with a twist was introduced, with lemon,
                                   lime and orange flavours.
     Le Couple Dansant, Villemot

                                   1992
                                   Nestlé acquired Source Perrier.


                                   2001
                                   The brand introduced a PET bottle after 11 years of
     Cocktail Mondain, Villemot    research into which plastic would be most suitable.


                                   2011
                                   Perrier launched Dita Von Teese limited-edition
                                   packaging.



         La Rousse, Villemot




18
Did you know?
                                  One of the following facts just doesn’t hold water.*
Perrier  Dita Von Teese, 2011.




                                   1.  errier paid a
                                      P                            2.  errier was the first
                                                                      P                                  3. According to                           5. The idea for the
                                                                                                                                                       
                                      reported £250,000               sponsor of the                         Perrier’s marketing,                      distinctive shape of
                                      to have its product             Edinburgh Comedy                       each bottle of its                        the original Perrier
                                      featured in the 2006            Awards. The first                      carbonated water                          bottle is said to have
                                      version of Casino               winners in 1981, with                  contains 50 million                       come to Sir Saint-John
                                      Royale. It ran a                their production The                   bubbles.                                  Harmsworth when
                                      supporting ad                   Cellar Tapes, were the                                                           he was recuperating
                                      campaign featuring              Cambridge Footlights,                                                            from a car accident.
                                      a bottle sporting               comprising: Stephen                4. A 1950 advertising
                                                                                                                                                      The shape of the
                                      a dinner jacket and             Fry, Hugh Laurie,                     campaign for Perrier                       Indian clubs he used
                                      beneath it the words,           Emma Thompson,                        declared: ‘Water                           in his physiotherapy
                                      ‘Eau Eau Seven.’                Tony Slattery,                        which springs out                          provided the
                                                                      Penny Dwyer                           as one opens it.                           inspiration.
                                                                      and Paul Shearer.                     Water that Laughs.
                                                                                                            Water like a handful
                                                                                                            of needles in                           6. In 2002, Perrier
                                                                                                                                                       
                                                                                                            the mouth.’                                introduced a less
                                                                                                                                                       gassy version of its
                                                                                                                                                       drink called Eau de
                                                                                                                                                       Perrier which is sold
                                                                                                                                                       in blue bottles.


                                                                                 *‘Eau James!’ There was no Perrier product placement in Casino Royale, so number one is a downright lie.

                                                                                                                                                                                     19
Staedtler
The ubiquitous yellow and black pencils it produces are
such a part of our cultural fabric that its name is almost
invisible. But Staedtler has, with the humble Noris and
slightly grander Mars, ensured the ongoing prosperity of
an ancient company which still espouses old-fashioned
financial planning allied to industry and endeavour. Staedtler
products are both beautiful and useful, miniature masterpieces
that we should never take for granted.




For all its myriad innovations and ranges, it comes        The black tail with HB coding is systematic and
down to the branding of two pencils that has               reassuringly functional. Note there is no rubber
made Staedtler the definitive product in its               on the tip: wielding this pencil you won’t make
category. The yellow-and-black Noris got us                mistakes. The Mars helmet icon says this is a pencil
started at school; its distinctive livery can              that means business – it knows you are going into
transport us back to the classroom at a glance.            battle against the tyranny of a blank sheet.
As we grew up, those of us with a design leaning           Poor workmen blame their tools, but a trained
became aware of the Staedtler ‘Pro’ – the bright           professional selects them with care. Staedtler’s
blue Mars. As Apple endured its tough times as             graphic purity shows confidence. This gives the
the creatives’ computer brand, so the world                brand charisma and cachet, and gets it into the
respects the Staedtler because it is the weapon            hands of designers with rectangular glasses and
of choice for designers.                                   wannabes alike. SA
We love it because the design is Dieter Rams in
a stick. I dislike semiotic mumbo-jumbo, but, in
this case, I grudgingly observe there is a semiotic
dimension. First the name. Those Germans are
precise characters; one assumes they keep their pencils
sharp too. The bright blue supports this – it’s a colour
of care and consideration. It’s calm and measured,
but also bold enough to suggest a bit of personality.
20
21
Timeline
                                                1835
                                                The JS Staedtler company was established in
          Vintage Mars Lumograph box            Nuremberg, Germany, following a long history
                                                of pencil-making in the area.


                                                1866
                                                Staedtler employed 54 people, with production
                                                reaching more than 2 million pencils a year.

          Staedtler pencil box, inside lid
                                                1922
                                                A US subsidiary was established, followed four
                                                years later by one in Japan.

                   Mars eraser
                                                1988
                                                German production was relocated to a bigger
                                                site in Moosacher Strasse in North Nuremberg.


                                                1997
                                                The Staedtler Foundation, a non-profit
          Noris Club colouring pencils          organisation that holds all shares in the Staedtler
                                                group, was set up.


                                                2011
                                                The Staedtler Triplus 426 retractable ballpoint
     Staedtler Warrior  Patta footware, 2011
                                                pen won a Red Dot Design Award.


                                                2012
                                                Staedtler’s annual sales of wood-cased pencils
                                                reached 65 million, including 33 million yellow-
                                                and-black Noris pencils.




22
Did you know?
One of these pencil stories wants to lead you astray.*




 1.  n 2011, Staedtler’s
    I                           3. Staedtler has            5.  isitors to its
                                                                V                              6.  he reason why
                                                                                                  T
    turnover was £220m.             developed an                factories are not                 Staedtler can claim
    The company has no              anti-break system           allowed to see the                to be more
    debt and is reluctant           for its coloured            production line                   environmentally
    ever to borrow,                 pencils which it            where the                         friendly is that it
    preferring to invest            claims has boosted          WOPEX pencil                      uses mashed-up
    profits in expansion            sales. The extra            is manufactured.                  wood in its pencil
    programmes thus,                coating around the                                            manufacture. This
    growing more slowly,            pencil stops them                                             enables roughly
    but sustainably.                breaking when                                                 80% of every tree
                                    sharpened.                                                    to be used rather
                                                                                                  than the 20% which
 2.  ohannes Bell and
    J                                                                                             is the norm in most
    Hermann Müller              4.  n advert for
                                   A                                                              pencil manufacture.
    signed the Treaty              Staedtler shows an
    of Versailles for              actor playing Albert
    Germany using                  Speer arriving at
    Staedtler pens.                Adolf Hitler’s office.
    The treaty was                 He says, ‘I only came
    so despised within             to see your Staedtler,’
    Germany, the                   but Hitler snaps it in
    company actively               two and drops it to
    sought to suppress             the floor.
    this information.                                                         it’s bogus in the first place. Number two is untrue.
                                                                              *No need to suppress that Treaty of Versailles story as

                                                                                                                                 23
Hermès
Uncompromising on quality as well as price, luxury goods
manufacturer Hermès is proof that there is more than one
way for a company to make itself recession proof. Still family
run and still employing individual craftsmen to make luxury
luggage items in their entirety, Hermès stands apart from all
accepted wisdom about mass production. It successfully
caters for that small (but sizeable) elite that never need to
see the price tag.




Here’s a brand that creates desire beyond reason,      That lovely word ‘atelier’ comes to mind:
yet succeeds through rigorous control of its           craftsmen and women in workshops using the
products as much as through emotional flights          best materials and the best (often very traditional)
of fancy. A brand famous for maximalist scarves        methods, and hang the expense.
and, conversely, its super-simple, but highly prized
                                                       These skills are put at the service of ‘art’ –
boxes. A brand continually innovating, while also
                                                       from the stunning scarf designs to the bonkers
remaining somehow faithful to its traditional roots.
                                                       shop windows and the ultra-contemporary
A brand with a cutting edge aesthetic, yet one that
                                                       homeware. In Britain we might say that quality
your granny would love to wear. In short, with
                                                       should be known, not shown. In Europe it’s both,
Hermès, the relationship between design and
                                                       with knobs on. The marriage of art and craft –
business has some inherent contradictions,
                                                       is this not what all great design strives to be?
but it all works beautifully.
                                                       Eye-watering prices, offered without a blink, simply
Perhaps it successfully embraces contradiction         compound the impression of excellence. SA
because all its designs share two fundamental
qualities: skill and art. On the one hand, this is
a brand of craftsmanship, from the high-end-
saddle making to the ‘hand rolled’ hems of its
scarves. As with a fine Cuban cigar, one knows
‘it’s the best’.
24
25
Timeline
                              1837
                              Thierry Hermès established an elite harness
                              workshop in the Grands Boulevards quarter
                              of Paris.
     Satyr-winged saddlebag


                              1880
                              Thierry’s son Charles-Émile Hermès branched
                              out into saddlery and relocated the shop to
         Hermès wallet        24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where
                              it remains today.


                              1918
                              Thierry’s grandson Émile, noting the advent
                              of the motor car, changed the firm’s direction
                              toward the production of luggage.
         Hermès scarf


                              1935
                              The company introduced a leather Sac à
                              Depêches, later known as ‘the Kelly bag’ after
                              Grace Kelly held it in front of her in a 1956
                              photograph to hide her pregnancy.

       Hermès gift boxes
                              1937
                              Silk scarves were introduced.


                              1999
                              The company acquired a 35% stake in the
                              Jean-Paul Gaultier fashion house.
       Advertising, China


                              2012
                              Hermès celebrated its 175th year in business with
                              a London exhibition called ‘Leather Forever’.




26
Did you know?
                                     There’s fabrication afoot in the following.*
Hermès flagship store Tokyo, 2011.




                                      1.  ne Hermès scarf,
                                         O                              3. n 1918, Hermès
                                                                          I                       5.  ctress and throaty
                                                                                                     A                             6. African dictator,
                                         normally costing                 brought out the            chanteuse, Jane                   Mobutu Sese Soko,
                                         between £230 and                 first leather golfing      Birkin, helped                    once bought the
                                         £500, is sold every              jacket with a zipper.      Hermès develop                    entire contents of
                                         30 seconds. The                                             a handbag after a                 a Parisian Hermès
                                         Carré, as it’s known,                                       conversation with                 outlet and
                                         was famously used                                           Jean-Louis Dumas                  threatened to kill
                                         by actress Sharon              4 .  y the mid-90s,
                                                                            B                        when she                          the manager. He
                                         Stone for a bondage                Jean-Louis Dumas         complained that                   was subsequently
                                         scene in Basic Instinct.           and all the Hermès       her ‘Kelly bag’                   banned for life from
                                                                            family were on the       was not practical.                all Hermès stores.
                                                                            Forbes ‘List of          However, she
                                                                            Billionaires’.           apparently no
                                      2.The original Hermès
                                                                                                     longer uses a Birkin
                                         box was cream-
                                                                                                     herself as she
                                         coloured with gilded
                                                                                                     believes it gave
                                         edging. Shortages
                                                                                                     her tendonitis.
                                         during the war
                                         forced the company
                                         to use the only plain
                                         paperboard available
                                         – which happened
                                         to be the now
                                         legendary orange.
                                                                                                                            but number six is 100% fake.
                                                                                                                            *Don’t let the cat out of the hand-tooled bag,

                                                                                                                                                                      27
Moleskine
Moleskine notebooks might have a slightly fanciful history,
but what sustains them in the present and underpins the
company’s success is that they represent a little piece of
affordable luxury. They elevate any piece of writing (even if it
is just a shopping list) into something a little more pleasurable
and, dare we say it, sensual. If that puts us a little closer to
our inner Picasso or Wilde, where’s the harm in that?




Moleskine gave the archetype of an artist’s journal        Seeing it adopted by the world of business
solid form, reviving a traditional format and serving      meetings rankled with me. It seemed vainglorious
it up as a definitive classic.                             to suggest that notes from a dreary meeting might
                                                           follow in the footsteps of Hemingway.
The design’s detailing transformed a fanciful
tale of artistic provenance into a real brand.             So I applaud the brand for also producing
The paper quality, the elasticated binding, the ribbon     humbler card-covered versions for these more
bookmark and the inside pocket discreetly holding          prosaic occasions. These ‘basic books’ have
a slip of paper (on which the brand’s back story           beautiful detailing. They show design can be about
is told) all helps to convince us this is the real deal.   quality that is known, not flaunted. Moleskine’s
                                                           recognition as a status symbol has been achieved
These touches got the brand stocked in and
                                                           through design understatement – be it in the
associated with all the right places. This took it
                                                           boardroom or the backpack. SA
from an arty niche to mainstream success. As with
Filofaxes in the 1980s, plonking one down on a
meeting table became a display of one-upmanship.
As an early user I took the original leather-bound
version backpacking, using it for its stated purpose
– as a notebook for jottings and drawings. The
robust design endured myriad climates and much
bashing about, becoming a treasured companion.
28
Illustration by Raúl Gómez.

                    29
Timeline
                                        1986
                                        Writer Bruce Chatwin immortalised the name
                                        Moleskine in his book The Songlines, which later
                                        inspired the resurrection of the brand.

       Van Gogh sketchbook, c.1890
                                        1996
                                        Milanese publisher Modo  Modo trademarked
                                        the Moleskine name. Production began in China
                                        and the notebook was hand-finished in Italy
                                        before hitting the market the following year.

     Moleskine  designer Marti Guixe
                                        2004
                                        Photographer Armand Frasco started the fan
                                        site Moleskinerie.com. It went on to attract 5,000
                                        visitors a day and Moleskine adopted the site as
                                        its official blog.



        Moleskine City notebooks
                                        2006
                                        Modo  Modo was bought by an investment
                                        fund for €60m. The business was renamed
                                        under the Moleskine brand name.


                                        2008
     Limited-edition Lego  Moleskine
                                        Moleskine America Inc was established, with
                                        headquarters in New York.


                                        2010
                                        Moleskine released a limited-edition range
                                        featuring Pac-Man to celebrate the video-game
      Moleskine iPad  iPhone covers    character’s 30th anniversary. Other special
                                        editions have featured Peanuts, Star Wars
                                        and artwork by film director Tim Burton.




30
Did you know?
The veracity of one of these facts is paper-thin.*




 1.  n 2010, Moleskine
    I                            3.  odo  Modo’s
                                    M                        5.  oleskine notebooks
                                                                M                                 6. Each Moleskine
    had a turnover of               co-owner,                   are ranked at                         notebook has
    £161m. It has grown             Francesco                   Number 122 on                         an individual
    by 25% every year               Franceschi, has             the satirical blog,                   ID number.
    from 2006 onwards.              conceded that               Stuff White People
                                    Moleskine’s claims          Like. ‘It’s a good
                                    of an authentic             rule of thumb,’
 2.  he first Moleskine
    T                               artistic heritage are       the blog notes,
    notebooks were                  a fabrication. ‘It’s        ‘that white people
    produced with                   an exaggeration,’           like anything that
    taupe-coloured                  he admitted to the          old writers and
    pages, partly as a              New York Times,             artists liked:
    play on words                   ‘It’s marketing, not        typewriters, journals,
    because taupe is                science. It’s not the       suicide, heroin and
    French for mole.                absolute truth.’            trains are just a
                                                                few examples.’

                                 4.  here is no official,
                                    T
                                    accepted way to
                                    pronounce Moleskine.



                                                                             have taupe-coloured pages. So number two isn’t true.
                                                                             *Taupe is French for mole, but original Moleskines did not

                                                                                                                                   31
illy
Not every luxury brand can justify its price, but family-run illy,
purveyors of premium coffee for three generations, can point
to several good reasons for charging more than most. It pays
its suppliers more, is more exacting in its standards and
delivers a better and more consistent taste than its rivals.
Simple, really.




As a coffee-lover, it’s a treat to write about illy.       There are no ‘bum notes’ – even the sugar sticks look
Fresh and friendly, but possessing an extra shot           like they’ve been loved. Product details and other
of Italian sophistication, it is the definitive article.   information keep a respectful distance from the logo,
                                                           which is always set elegantly on white or silver.
So what does illy teach us? Above all else, it is
                                                           So, wherever you see it, illy appears loud and proud.
a masterclass in how to leverage a logo. The red
mark is brazenly stamped on anything and                   Lastly, the logo always seems to be in good company.
everything: cups, awnings, ashtrays and any other          Be it the sleek metal tins or the quirky espresso
surface that can be found. Its signage epitomises          cups, everything tells you that illy is mighty fine
this approach – treated reverently, like a flag,           coffee. Speaking of which, it might just be time
ensuring you can’t miss it.                                for a cup… JJ
There are three reasons why illy has made this
simple strategy work so well. First, the brand has
a really likeable logo at its heart. The typography
is brimming with personality and housed by the
bright-red background, it puts a spring in your
step before you’ve even taken a sip. Second,
it is consistently executed with care.
32
33
Timeline
                                                1995
                                                Andrea Illy co-authored Espresso Coffee:
                                                the Chemistry of Quality, about the science
                                                and technology of coffee.
            illy espresso cup  saucer


                                                1996
                                                Artist James Rosenquist designed the red
                                                square illy logo, which is still used across
                                                the brand’s products.


     illy FrancisFrancis! X1 espresso machine   2000
                                                The University of Coffee was created. It has
                                                taught coffee culture, from bean to cup, to the
                                                5,000 students who have attended to date.


                                                2003
                                                The company launched Espressamente illy,
             ‘Galleria illy’ advertising        a chain of Italian-style bars with innovative
                                                design concepts.


                                                2005
                                                illy opened its first gallery in the SoHo district
                                                of New York City, displaying work from leading
                                                international artists and design students.
     Alioum Moussa ‘All create together’ can

                                                2009
                                                illy partnered Coca-Cola to launch a ready-to-
                                                drink coffee range, called illy issimo.




              ‘Galleria illy’, London




34
Did you know?
                                                                  One of these leaves the bitter aftertaste of deceit.*
The illy Art Collection featuring designer espresso cups, 2010.




                                                                   1.  n 1991, illy began
                                                                      I                            3. lly was the first
                                                                                                      i                      5. Andrea Illy, boss
                                                                                                                                                           6.  he illy logo was
                                                                                                                                                               T
                                                                      a competition                   company to sponsor        of the company,                painted by the pop
                                                                      to find the best                the Italian national      disagrees strongly             artist, James
                                                                      growers of sun-                 football team.            with Fairtrade:                Rosenquist. It
                                                                      dried arabica in                                          ‘Our doctrine is               was originally part
                                                                      Brazil. The prize                                         that we will pay               of a bigger painting
                                                                      for the winner               4.  n 1988, illy
                                                                                                      I                         more for better                which hangs in
                                                                      was to become its               introduced a              quality. Fairtrade             Andrea Illy’s office.
                                                                      supplier. illy doesn’t          computerised              is about paying a
                                                                      use middlemen                   system for checking       higher price for the
                                                                      and it pays                     every individual          same goods. That is
                                                                      Brazilian farmers               bean which rejects        against the laws of
                                                                      the difference.                 those which don’t         supply and demand.’
                                                                                                      meet its rigorous
                                                                                                      selection criteria.
                                                                   2 .  s well as its
                                                                       A
                                                                       famous coffee,
                                                                       the illy group also
                                                                       produces teas,
                                                                       chocolate, jam
                                                                       and wine.



                                                                                                                                                   *All truth has been filtered from number three.

                                                                                                                                                                                              35
Playmobil
There is something joyous about a company succeeding
while resisting the lures of movie tie-ins and merchandising
opportunities. Instead, Playmobil has put its faith in children’s
imaginations. The German company has not only shunned
the advances of movie franchises, but even dares not to
give its creations real names, lest it should discourage
children from coining their own.




When one trots out clichés about the Germans,           Civilisation is a result of our mastering of tools
great toymaking is not top of mind. But they do         and our imaginative application of them. With the
excel at it, with a tradition for making things very,   learning tool that is Playmobil, whole civilisations
very well.                                              can be made in microcosm. Children can create
                                                        and order their own particular universe, learning
Playmobil is a case in point. On one level, we see
                                                        about how everyone can play their part and how
charming little characters inhabiting a jolly place,
                                                        everything connects. No small achievement for
their adventures played out under the packaging’s
                                                        little toys that can be bought for almost pocket-
blue skies. Nothing too dark is likely to happen.
                                                        money prices.
However, one look at the design blueprints
reveals a totally considered product –                  Garish ‘cross-platform digitally interfacing’
ergonomically, aesthetically and conceptually.          successes such as Moshi Monsters and Skylanders
                                                        are likely to make Playmobil reflect on how it
The folk are designed to fit into a child’s hand.
                                                        might evolve and stay relevant. I hope not –
Robust and collectable, it’s the interchangeable
                                                        I think its own little world suits it just fine. SA
nature of the little characters’ costumes and props
that is the design’s stroke of genius. There is every
chance a pirate might swap his cutlass for a baby’s
stroller or his tri-cornered hat for a construction
helmet. He may even end the day a princess.
36
37
Timeline
                                         1954
                                         Horst Brandstätter joined the family company
                                         started by his grandfather in 1876. He moved
                                         into manufacturing plastic goods; its first
           Playmobil Cowboy set          success was the hula hoop.


                                         1973
                                         Hans Beck created Playmobil for Brandstätter.

     Playmobil Adventure Brachiosaurus
                                         1976
                                         The first female figures were introduced.


                                         2003
                                         Playmobil celebrated its 30th birthday. A golden
                                         knight toy was produced to mark the occasion.
           Playmobil Dad’s BBQ


                                         2006
                                         Playmobil figures gained articulated feet in
                                         honour of the World Cup.



           Playmobil Pizza Guy
                                         2011
                                         Playmobil achieved turnover of €564m.




         Playmobil Speckled Horse




38
Did you know?
                                 ‘Shiver me timbers!’ Lurking among these is a lie that would make a posable pirate blush.*
Image courtesy of Mark Wilson.




                                  1.  nusual Playmobil
                                     U                           3.  n Spain, Playmobil
                                                                    I                           5.  arketed under the
                                                                                                   M                                     6. Joy Division’s
                                     sets which have been           is produced under              title ‘Gaymobil’,                         September 1979
                                     released include: a            licence by the toy             it’s possible to buy                      appearance on
                                     Knife-Throwing                 company, Famosa.               a set of Village                          Something Else
                                     Circus Act, a Vulture          It is marketed as              People Playmobil                          performing
                                      Cow Carcass, a               ‘los clicks de                 comprising: a                             ‘Transmission’ has
                                     Hazardous Materials            Famobil’ with male             construction worker,                      been recreated in
                                     Clean-up Team and              dolls known as                 a Native American,                        stop-motion
                                     an Axeman.                     ‘clicks’ and females           a cowboy, a                               animation with
                                                                    as ‘clacks’.                   policeman, a sailor                       Playmobil characters.
                                                                                                   and a motorbiker.
                                  2.  n April 1st 2011,
                                     O
                                     the ThinkGeek               4. Japan boasts toy
                                                                    
                                     website released               figures similar to
                                     a spoof Playmobil              those made by
                                     version of an Apple            Playmobil and
                                     Store, released ‘to            known as Kubricks,
                                     introduce children             named in honour of
                                     to the magic                   the late film director.
                                     of Apple’.



                                                                                                        it does not sadly exist in reality, making a liar of number five.
                                                                                                        *Although a spoof version of said Village People exists on the internet,

                                                                                                                                                                            39
Citroën
Dogged by financial problems for much of its existence,
Citroën has nevertheless survived and prospered in the
21st century. While the nostalgic might argue it has sacrificed
quirkiness for the safety of the middle market, it remains a
flagship of French technical expertise.




Name a car that epitomises French style. How about      Citroën has not always been so happy. With
the Citroën 2CV? Or the DS? To create a vehicle         weak cost management, its avant-garde designs
that defines a national character is quite something.   necessitated high prices and after the market
To do so a second time, from the opposite end           weakened due to the 1973 oil crisis, the company
of the market, is a remarkable achievement.             went under. Rescued by Peugeot, Citroën was left
                                                        to pursue diluted designs built on shared components.
As designers, we regularly glean the germ of
our most successful ideas from the subtext in the       However, mass mediocrity is ultimately
brief. The 2CV, for example, took its inspiration       unsustainable without cost-leadership. We should
from the desire to ‘provide the peasantry with          draw inspiration from Citroën’s recent success in
a motorised alternative to the horse, capable of        commanding higher prices following its return
transporting a tray of eggs over cobbled roads’.        to more progressive design with the new-look DS
The resulting suspension had the travel of a coil-      range. AK
spring mattress.
The aerodynamic DS was conceived in secret
during the latter years of the German
occupation. It was deliberately designed to
reassert French pride and became so closely
associated with General de Gaulle, it must have
been created for him. Sadly, however, the story of
40
41
Timeline
                                               1923
                                               A Citroën 5CV became the first car to be driven
                                               around Australia. The original vehicle, restored
                                               and in working order, is now owned by the
                                               National Museum of Australia.
     Eiffel Tower sponsored by Citroën, 1925

                                               1925
                                               Founder André-Gustave Citroën advertised the
                                               company by putting its name in lights across the
                                               Eiffel Tower. The sign remained there until 1934.
               Advertising, 1960s

                                               1937
                                               Pierre-Jules Boulanger became president
                                               of Citroën and a year later joint managing
                                               director of Michelin.
               Citroën 2CV, 1979

                                               1961
                                               Flaminio Bertoni designed his last car, the
                                               Ami 6. Though no match for the 2CV and
                                               DS 19, elements influenced 1960s car design.
            Citroën C1 Airplay, 2006


                                               1974
                                               Peugeot acquired a stake in Citroën, increasing
                                               it to a majority shareholding two years later,
                                               creating the PSA Group – later renamed PSA
          Citroën DS3 Racing car, 2011         Peugeot Citroën.


                                               2009
                                               Celebrating its 90th anniversary, Citroën
                                               refreshed its brand with an updated logo
                                               and new slogan, ‘Créative technologie.’
                                               It also introduced a premium car range,
                                               bringing back the DS name.




42
Did you know?
                                        One of these car facts is definitely a ringer.*
Citroën Metropolis concept car, 2010.




                                         1.  he first motorised
                                            T                              2. French President,       3. Although seemingly               5.  he Citroën logo
                                                                                                                                               T
                                            crossing of the                    Charles de Gaulle           ill-equipped to star in             of two inverted ‘V’s
                                            Sahara desert, from                was travelling in           a car chase, a Citroën              is actually a graphic
                                            Algiers to Timbuktu,               an unarmoured               2CV featured in                     representation of
                                            was undertaken                     Citroën DS (The             arguably the most                   a herringbone
                                            in December 1922 by                Goddess) when               memorable scene                     gear-wheel design,
                                            a convoy of Citroën                he survived an              in 1981 Bond film,                  reflecting the fact
                                            Half Tracks                        assassination               For Your Eyes Only,                 that early Citroën
                                            (Autochenilles).                   attempt in the              when it provided                    models used a
                                            It took 21 days                    Parisian suburb             an unlikely means                   herringbone bevel
                                            to complete the 2,000              of Petit-Clamart            of escape for                       gear final drive in
                                            mile expedition.                   in August 1962.             Roger Moore.                        the rear axle.
                                                                               De Gaulle
                                                                               attributed his
                                                                               survival to the
                                                                                                       4. Dusseldorf electro               6.  y the end of its first
                                                                                                                                               B
                                                                               unique suspension
                                                                                                           pioneers, Florian                   day on display
                                                                               of the car which
                                                                                                           Schneider and Ralf                  at the Paris motor
                                                                               enabled it to escape
                                                                                                           Hütter of                           show of 1955, a
                                                                               at full speed despite
                                                                                                           Kraftwerk, both                     staggering 12,000
                                                                               having two tyres
                                                                                                           collect Citroën                     people had paid
                                                                               shot out. The
                                                                                                           HY vans.                            deposits to own the
                                                                               attempt was
                                                                                                                                               new Citroën DS.
                                                                               recreated in the
                                                                               opening scene
                                                                               of The Day of                               *Zut alors! Nombre four is built on a chassis of deceit.
                                                                               the Jackal.
                                                                                                                                                                               43
Roberts Revival
There’s a good chance that a Roberts radio played a part in
the formative memories of many a baby boomer. Its renaissance,
in the form of the Roberts Revival, has in part been driven by
that generation’s delight in being able to purchase a part of its
childhood. True to its pioneering spirit however, Roberts has
been reborn by embracing change rather than simply appealing
to nostalgia. It is proof that modern technology fused with
classic design is a potent combination in any era.




Today the idea of a radio that does only radio is,    offer. It means they should retain relevance long
arguably, an anachronism. Roberts was part of         after the vintage fad has faded and the ‘Keep calm’
broadcasting when ‘wireless’ didn’t mean streaming    poster has been removed from the kitchen wall.
audio via a PC. Nevertheless, the Roberts Revival
                                                      Roberts still looks stylish because its compact,
is a good example of a particular kind of ‘vintage’
                                                      simple form followed function. If it had really
design; it’s progressive retro. Which is to say it
                                                      embraced the design fashions of the time it might
might look as ‘home and hearth’ as a brown
                                                      have aged less successfully. Today there are plenty
teapot, but under the skin it’s bang up-to-date.
                                                      of funky modern alternatives around, but I suspect
Trying to switch on an internet-linked model          your PC will be obsolete or look old-fashioned far
at a pal’s house recently, the minimal buttons        quicker than a Roberts. SA
proved too modern for me to figure out myself
and I had to ask for help. It might look old enough
for a free bus pass, but I was the one left having
a ‘senior moment’. Roberts still has a twinkle in
the eye and contemporary engineering inside.
Being progressive retro puts it in good design
company, alongside the Aston Martin DBS, the
Coke Classic aluminium bottle, Gucci by Gucci
and suchlike. These are brands using nostalgia that
also have an ‘of-the-moment’ quality or product
44
45
Timeline
                                      1940
                                      Harry Roberts received a letter telling him the
                                      Queen had personally purchased a Roberts M4D
                                      model in the radio department of Harrods.


           Advertising, 1951          1959
                                      Roberts modified one of its existing sets at the
                                      request of St John’s College, Cambridge, for a
                                      battery-powered shortwave radio to take on an
                                      expedition to Colombia.

             Roberts R505
                                      1961
                                      The company produced a special-edition,
                                      solid-gold-cased radio. The publicity stunt
                                      attracted worldwide attention when it was
                                      stolen from a department store.



     ‘The Digital Radio Collection’
                                      1969
                                      Harry Roberts died and was succeeded by his
                                      son, Richard, as chairman and managing director.


                                      2000
                                      A special edition ‘Revival’ was created for the Queen
                                      Mother to commemorate her 100th birthday.
       Cath Kidston  Roberts

                                      2012
                                      The brand marked its 80th anniversary with a red,
                                      white and blue range celebrating the Queen’s
                                      Diamond Jubilee.


         Swarovski  Roberts




46
Did you know?
                                                                                   One of these is broadcasting on FM (Flagrantly Mendacious).*
Jack Train (ITMA’s Colonel Chinstrap) drawing the crowds at Earls Court in 1956.




                                                                                    1.  oberts launched the
                                                                                       R                          3.  or many years
                                                                                                                     F                            4.  n the company’s
                                                                                                                                                     I                                    5. Roberts is the only
                                                                                                                                                                                             
                                                                                       first solar-powered           Roberts radios were             earliest days,                          company permitted
                                                                                       DAB radio.                    the only type of                founders Harry                          to engrave BBC
                                                                                                                     transistor allowed in           Roberts and Leslie                      World Service
                                                                                                                     UK prisons as their             Bidmead were                            on its products.
                                                                                                                     cases could be easily           offered a free
                                                                                    2. The Roberts Sports
                                                                                                                    removed in any                  weekend in a hotel
                                                                                       984 radio was the             search for                      in Cornwall if
                                                                                       world’s first 3-band          contraband. The                 they could                           6. Canadian singer-
                                                                                                                                                                                             
                                                                                       personal stereo and           1975 Rambler 2                  demonstrate that                        songwriter, Robbie
                                                                                       was designed                  model was even                  one of their radios                     Robertson and the
                                                                                       primarily with                designed with the               would work there.                       late broadcaster,
                                                                                       cricket-lovers in             prison population                                                       Robert Robinson,
                                                                                       mind as it was                in mind.                                                                both featured in
                                                                                       capable of picking                                                                                    advertising for
                                                                                       up Test Match Special                                                                                 Roberts radios in
                                                                                       which was then                                                                                        the 1970s.
                                                                                       broadcast on
                                                                                       Long Wave.




                                                                                                                                                    1970s ad campaigns, making number six the all-too-obvious fib.
                                                                                                                                                    *Band frontmen and combed-over quizmasters played no part in the company’s

                                                                                                                                                                                                                          47
MTV
When MTV has been at its most successful, the hair displayed
on its screens has always been big. From the luxurious manes
of the New Romantics to the backcombed edifices witnessed
on Jersey Shore, coiffures of magnitude have served as a
barometer to the station’s fortunes. That the barnets in
question no longer have anything to do with music might
also be significant.




Through MTV’s formative decade, its logo acted           ‘The MTV generation’ defined an entire era and
as a canvas for the whims of generations of              when a design helps put your brand at the heart
designers, as it was constantly reinterpreted            of popular culture, success will surely follow.
and played with. Unlikely to win a typographic
                                                         That was then. Look on YouTube for compilations
beauty contest, the design instead developed a
                                                         of MTV idents. They predate the current approach,
big personality. Like one famous early version,
                                                         which is telling. The logo remains, but it’s less
planted by an astronaut on the moon, it was a
                                                         spirited and colourful. It was a creative springboard;
pioneer. The design application’s kinetic exuberance
                                                         now it’s a corporate anchor. It makes strategic
was a fantastic complement to the shouted slogan
                                                         sense, as the brand has diversified, and the less
‘I want my MTV’; it looked like a cheery yell.
                                                         soulful expression seems fitting for the home of
As a design lesson it was proof that the medium          Jersey Shore. We get the designs, culture and media
can be the message. What I mean is that the              we demand. SA
myriad funky ways in which it was expressed made
it visually reflective of the channel’s fast-cut video
content. It defined the style of the ‘video age’
as much as represented it. Which came first, the
wonky claymation versions of the logo, or the
video for Peter Gabriel’s ‘Sledgehammer’?
48
49
Timeline
           1989
           The world premiere of Madonna’s ‘Like
           A Prayer’ video aired on the channel.


           1989
           MTV Unplugged aired for the first time,
           showcasing acoustic performances from acts
           such as Nirvana and LL Cool J.


           1992
           Presidential candidate and Arkansas governor
           Bill Clinton answered young people’s questions
           in the first of MTV’s Choose Or Lose forums
           covering politics.


           2000
           Comedy show Jackass debuted on the channel,
           produced by Johnny Knoxville, Jeff Tremaine
           and director Spike Jonze.


           2002
           The world’s first celebrity reality TV show,
           The Osbournes, was broadcast by MTV.


           2009
           Jersey Shore became the number-one show on
           US TV and MTV’s most successful series yet
           in terms of ratings.


           2011
           Mike Judge’s Beavis and Butthead returned
           to MTV. It initially ran from 1993 to 1997.




50
Did you know?
One of these is to truth what Jersey Shore is to reality. And truth.*




 1.  he first words heard
    T                            3.  uring a mid-90s
                                    D                             5.  ussell Brand was
                                                                     R                                          6.  he last book Gore
                                                                                                                   T
    on MTV, spoken by               slump in the                     sacked from his job                           Vidal completed
    John Lack, were:                channel’s fortunes,              at MTV when he                                before his death in
    ‘Ladies and                     The Simpsons                     turned up to work                             2012 was A Shore
    gentlemen,                      mocked it by having              dressed as Osama                              Thing written by
    rock and roll!’                 Bart write on his                bin Laden on                                  Snooki from MTV’s
                                    chalkboard,                      September 12th                                reality show,
                                    ‘I no longer want                2001. He has since                            Jersey Shore.
 2. MTV show, Beavis               my MTV.’                         presented both the
     and Butthead, was                                               channel’s music and
     accused of inspiring                                            video awards.
     a series of arson            4. Ex-Monkee, Mike
                                     
     incidents because               Nesmith, is seen by
     of children imitating           some as the
     Beavis and his ‘hot             godfather of MTV
     love for fire’. Beavis          because he
     is partly modelled              produced a half-
     on Barry Manilow.               hour pilot for a
                                     music video show,
                                     Popclips. He had the
                                     option of shares in
                                     the fledgling MTV
                                     but opted for a flat
                                     fee instead.               joined the choir invisible without having sampled the delights of Snooki’s magnum opus.
                                                                *Heaven forfend that number six should be true! As far as we know, Gore Vidal

                                                                                                                                                   51
Paul Smith
Big in Japan and thriving in most other parts of the world,
Paul Smith has been the most visible face of British fashion
on the international stage for the past 30 years. In that time,
Smith has cultivated an instantly recognisable but never clichéd
brand of tailoring that has reflected the classic British look with
a twist, which has been his signature from his earliest days.
That the man has the same near-universal appeal as his
brand only makes the success more deserved.




‘I give classics just a little kick,’ says the great man,   The brand’s design is also about the judicious use
and that pretty much sums it up; but Paul Smith is          of contrasts: those lairy, stripy colours are set off
being rather modest. That ‘kick’ works only because         by the dark wood floors; the flash of colour on a
of the quality of the design and manufacture, and           buttonhole is set against a dark grey suit. For we
resonates only because it has a genuine sense of            repressed chaps stuck with sludgy or monochrome
spirit, rather than being something ‘bolted on’.            wardrobes, all those bright stripy accessories
                                                            deliver the equivalent of a pick-n-mix sugar rush
Paul Smith’s work feels like the output of an
                                                            to a five-year-old.
enthusiast – from the playful windows to the
curating of various art books and objects at the            Some brands have consumers; Paul Smith tends
back of the shops. One gets a sense of genuine              to have fans. A case of getting back what you give,
pleasure being taken. You can’t fake this stuff:            perhaps? Now, if he could only give an occasional
when it’s real you can almost smell it. My art teacher      ‘little kick’ to his sometimes snooty staff, life would
in the brand’s Nottingham hometown was flown                be sublime. SA
to Tokyo in the 1980s to paint a trompe l’oeil £5 note
on the floor of the brand’s flagship store. That’s
pretty bonkers in purely business terms, but
success can fall out of such a spirit.
52
53
Timeline
                                                 1970
                                                 Smith opened his first shop, in Nottingham.


                                                 1976
     Paul Smith in his Nottingham store, 1970s
                                                 First London shop opened in Floral Street,
                                                 Covent Garden.


                                                 1991
                                                 Paul Smith received the British Designer
             Paul Smith Mini Cooper              for Industry Award and launched his
                                                 childrenswear range.


                                                 1993
                                                 Launched accessories range and the first Paul
                                                 Smith Women collection.
            ‘Is that a Paul Smith coat?’

                                                 1995
                                                 The company was awarded The Queen’s Award
                                                 for Industry for export achievement.


                                                 2000
                                                 Paul Smith received a knighthood.
             Bertram chair, Paul Smith


                                                 2006
                                                 Licensee Itochu bought 40% of the business.


        Paul Smith patchwork shoes, 2009
                                                 2011
                                                 Paul Smith received Outstanding Achievement
                                                 in Fashion Design accolade at the British
                                                 Fashion Awards.




54
Did you know?
The truth has been materially altered in one of the following.*




 1.  he knighthood
    T                            3.  fter making an
                                    A                             5. In 2001, in
                                                                                                      6.  n 1976, Smith
                                                                                                          I
    given to Paul Smith             off-the-cuff remark              recognition of his                   needed £30,000 to
    was only the second             about rabbits                    long-standing love                   buy his first premises
    ever given to a                 bringing him good                of the comic, The                    on Floral Street in
    designer, the first             luck, Smith has                  Beano featured Paul                  Covent Garden from
    being the Queen’s               found that he is                 Smith as a designer                  a retired baker. His
    dressmaker,                     sent between 10                  visiting the Bash                    bank manager at
    Hardy Amies.                    and 20 rabbit-                   Street School and                    Barclays wouldn’t
                                    themed gifts from                lecturing the kids                   lend him anything
                                    around the world                 in Class 2B.                         – ‘he didn’t like the
 2.  mith published his
    S                               every week.                                                           fact that I had long
    first book in 2001.                                                                                   hair and a red scarf.’
    Entitled, You Can                                                                                     But he scraped
    Find Inspiration in          4.  he rent on
                                    T                                                                     together £20,000 and
    Everything, it was              Paul Smith’s first                                                    the baker let him
    described by Smith              boutique in                                                           have it for £25,000.
    as his ‘brain on                Nottingham, Paul
    the page’.                      Smith Vêtement
                                    Pour Homme, was
                                    50p a week. The
                                    shop was scented
                                    with Christian Dior
                                    Eau Sauvage to
                                    mask the smell of                        he has not featured in an episode of The Bash Street Kids.
                                    his Afghan hound.                        *Sorry reader, but while Paul Smith does indeed love The Beano,

                                                                                                                                        55
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Champions of design vol #2

  • 1. Champions of Design 2 More observations on creativity for competitive advantage from jkr
  • 2.
  • 3. Andy Knowles began his career marketing Heineken and Stella Artois at Whitbread before co-founding jkr. Now chairman, he’s as interested as ever in lively debate around what gets packaging noticed and chosen. Silas Amos was a founder designer at jkr in 1990. He writes our daily Design Gazette online and is focused on creative strategy as a day job. James Joice joined jkr in 2010. He spends his time scoping out opportunities, establishing new partnerships and helping brands use design to drive growth. jones knowles ritchie specialise in creating eye-catching design to help people choose quickly, happily and confidently. www.jkrglobal.com
  • 4. We wish to express our thanks to the manufacturers of the products and services portrayed in this publication. Copyright of the images and trademarks used is that of the legal owner whose moral rights are acknowledged. All rights in the text used in this publication are reserved exclusively to Jones Knowles Ritchie Limited, except as may otherwise have been acknowledged. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written permission of the copyright owner. First published by Jones Knowles Ritchie in December 2012. jkr Brand First Books 128 Albert Street London NW1 7NE
  • 5. Champions of Design 2 More observations on creativity for competitive advantage from jkr By Andy Knowles, Silas Amos & James Joice With additional copy by John Naughton
  • 6.
  • 7. Introduction It isn’t often that a design agency praises the work of its rivals but this year we are doing it for a second time, and with even greater enthusiasm. We have increased the number of our champions to thirty-five and tried to include more winners from the supermarket aisle, not just high-end shops. Our aim is to celebrate great works of design wherever we find them and to give credit equally to the people who created them and the clients who bought them. We collected their stories from a series called ‘Champions of Design’ that we publish throughout the year – not in design magazines but in Marketing. There is a little self-interest here. The more marketing people who grow to love great design and value its contribution to their brands the easier our job will be if we are fortunate enough to work with them. Over and above this we simply want to share our appreciation of these enthralling enterprises, they never fail to inspire us. They are confirmation classes in our own deep-held beliefs. Which are? 1. esign is not separate from the product, it is part of it. It should emerge so naturally D from the brand that it feels and sounds right, like the voice of a friend. If design is simply bolted on or used as wrapping paper the cracks will show and the product inside won’t last very long. 2. eople will pay a little more for something they want and a lot more for something they P want very much. (Think of the last thing you wanted desperately and ask yourself what part its design played in its attraction.) 3. s each of our champions illustrates, design pays for itself many times over. Few other A investments show such a great return. Of course we would say this, you might be thinking, but over 22 years as a design agency we have found it to be true. These are the main lessons we take from the case histories in this book but there is another. A truly great design is inimitable: once you have it it’s yours forever. Competitors may try to copy you but they will only come second at best. All of which may sound very fine in retrospect but how do you recognise a great design in the first place? Speaking for ourselves we think the answer is viscerally. We feel a mixture of admiration and envy. We wish we’d done it. If you share these feelings when you turn the pages this book will have done its job.
  • 8. Contents Toblerone 8 Roberts Revival 44 Jägermeister 12 MTV 48 Perrier 16 Paul Smith 52 Staedtler 20 Yorkshire Tea 56 Hermès 24 Pez 60 Moleskine 28 Toms 64 illy 32 Pret A Manger 68 Playmobil 36 Monocle 72 Citroën 40 Muji 76
  • 9. Contents Sailor Jerry 80 Dr Martens 116 Cohiba 84 Kiwi 120 Chanel No 5 88 Kenwood 124 Jif 92 Ricard 128 Hunter 96 Benefit 132 Wagamama 100 Supreme 136 Mulberry 104 Crayola 140 Tunnock’s 108 Chupa Chups 144 Howies 112
  • 10. Toblerone How do you develop a USP when you’re just another chocolate manufacturer in Switzerland? Answer: fill your chocolate with a sticky nougat and mould it into a series of triangles which people subliminally assume to be a representation of the Alps. Toblerone might not be regarded as the highest quality Swiss chocolate, but it’s certainly the first one you’d pick out in an identity parade. In a very crowded marketplace, that is surely just as important. What defines an ‘iconic’ design? It’s an overused Rather it’s Toblerone and it resides in a category expression, but, by my reckoning, Toblerone of one. For proof of its genius, consider that fits the bill. For me, an iconic design features Albert Einstein (employed by the Swiss Federal a graphical or stylistic property that symbolises Institute for Intellectual Property in Bern) supposedly the brand’s values and attributes, thereby creating signed off the design – some endorsement. charisma. One also has to apply best practice: Another myth? Perhaps. But when the legend the tenacity, over many years, to focus on the core becomes fact, print the legend. iconography and keep investing it with meaning. A top tip: if struggling to separate the last two Toblerone has a distinctive shape and comes in segments of a big bar, use two fingers to push a distinctively shaped pack. One that looks like the mountain tips together. They will snap apart a mountain, of which you find many in Switzerland. with ease. Some designs you just love, in all their So this is definitively ‘Swiss’ chocolate. In truth, dimensions. This is one of them. SA mountains might not have inspired the original shape, but original intentions are irrelevant – myth and meanings attach themselves to iconic brands like iron filings to a magnet. It all sounds simple, but such apparent simplicity is a spark of genius. Over time, the iconography has allowed the pack to transcend its category. This is no longer another chocolate bar. 8
  • 11. 9
  • 12. Timeline 1868 Jean Tobler, the father of Theodor Tobler, opened a sweet shop in Bern, Switzerland. Toblerone logo 1900 Theodor took over the company. 1908 Vintage advertising Theodor and cousin Emil Baumann created the recipe for Toblerone. They chose a unique triangular shape for the bar. 1909 Theodor Tobler patented the process for making Toblerone tram Toblerone and the brand. 1969 A dark version of Toblerone was launched, followed four years later by a white-chocolate version. Advertising, 2009 2008 Toblerone celebrated its 100th anniversary. 2010 The chocolate bars became one triangle shorter to ensure the price stayed the same, despite the Toblerone Valentine’s Day box rising cost of ingredients. 10
  • 13. Did you know? One of the following six pieces of information is bogus. Can you find the confection of deceit lurking below?* Toblerone ‘Welcome to the Jungle’ advertising, 2003. 1. he Croatian T 3. n 1995, Swedish I 4. Dragon’s teeth, 6. 0cc were originally 1 equivalent of politician, Mona pyramidal anti-tank called Toblerone, Toblerone is Sahlin, bought two fortifications first but were forced to called Kolumbo. bars of Toblerone used in World War II, change their name among other things are commonly known because of fears on a credit card as ‘Toblerone lines’. about copyright 2. A complex of supposed to be infringement. Manchester used only for University student government 5. he largest ever T flats on the Oxford business. The Toblerone bar Road with low ensuing scandal, weighed 102kg walls and a large known as the and is almost sloping triangular Toblerone Affair, one metre long. roof is known as forced her to ‘the Toblerones’. resign. A similar storyline was employed in the Danish political drama, Borgen. upon 10cc, but none of them was Toblerone. Six is therefore the ringer. *The Mancunian art rockers were known by a variety of names prior to settling 11
  • 14. Jägermeister The marketing of Jägermeister is the stuff of legend. It has transformed an unknown, vaguely medicinal drink with an uncertain and slightly sinister past into a best-seller – synonymous with music, youth, sport and hedonism. The late marketing genius Sidney Frank is the man to take most credit for this. His techniques are widely studied, but he started with a simple premise. He simply described it as ‘the best drink in the world’. Like Danny DeVito, Jägermeister demonstrates We should, however, recognise that the initially that popularity need not depend on either stature unappealing package was imbued with charisma or beauty. Its packaging is a car-crash of an old- by the innovative marketing of wily distributors school Gothic logo-type atop a blaze of bright Sidney Frank Importing. Godfather to many a orange on a scrum-hooker bottle, but it oozes premium drink, including Grey Goose, they fuelled authenticity and power. Perhaps Jägermeister is Jägermeister’s export growth by first introducing so kitsch it’s cool? it to US drinkers with a squad of shapely ambassadors Among more sophisticated peers it is certainly in the on-trade. something of an iconoclast, but its butch name Jägermeister’s now triumphant place near the top and packaging bestow it with a character the logic of the global spirits sector is testimony to how of group discussion would never predict. distinctive design, if given the time to wear in, Logic be damned. Brands accrue meaning from provides enduring gain. AK    use, not the other way around. Younger drinkers will frequently make traditional brands contemporary by bending them to their cause. The now ubiquitous Jägerbomb could be put down to a lucky bounce – like cider over ice. The idea was adopted and disseminated by cutting-edge consumers and bartenders. 12
  • 15. 13
  • 16. Timeline 1878 Wilhelm Mast opened a vinegar production plant. It served the nearby mines, which used it to cool the rocks before extraction. Advertising, 1970s 1947 His son, Curt Mast, who had branched out into spirit-making in the 1930s, resumed production following a hiatus during World War II. Sponsorship of Eintracht Braunschweig, 1973 1972 Jägermeister began sponsoring motor-racing, including teams in Formula One and the German Touring Car Masters. It continued until 2000. Jägermeister flying bar 1973 The Jägermeister logo appeared on the shirts of players at Eintracht Braunschweig football club. A brief legal battle with the German Football Association led to the brand becoming the first to advertise on team shirts in the German football league. Jägermeister Porsche Turbo RSR 2010 Jägermeister achieved record sales of 82.4 million bottles, despite the onset of the global economic crisis. The UK became the drink’s third-biggest market, following Germany and the US. ‘Live Loud’ campaign 2011 The drink once again achieved record sales, with 87.1 million bottles sold in more than 90 countries. Sales in the UK exceeded 5 million bottles for the first time. 14
  • 17. Did you know? Hunt for the truth in one of these at your peril.* 1. hen the drink was W 3. Jägerbombs, 5. A (false) rumour 6. he company’s logo T launched in 1935, comprising a spread around has been interpreted Hermann Göring shot glass of mid-70s Baton erroneously as occupied the position Jägermeister mixed Rouge, Louisiana, a symbolic of Reichsjägermeister with Red Bull, have that the drink representation of and was on familiar been banned in contained opiates. the phrase, ‘Oh terms with the parts of Australia. After the story was Dear God.’ Perhaps liqueur’s inventor, picked up by the a familiar refrain to Carl Mast. Therefore, local paper, sales those who have Jägermeister became 4. Psychostick, rocketed from partaken too freely. known in some a self-styled 10 to 1,000 cases The surrounding quarters as ‘Göring- humorous band per month. circle is the ‘O(h)’, Schnapps’. from Arizona, the stag is ‘dear’ have written The and the cross Jägermeister Love Song. represents ‘God’. 2. Every bottle Sample lyric, ‘You of Jägermeister look your best contains eight when my vision is drops (0.4ml) blurry/That’s not of deer blood. what I meant, I can’t keep from slurring.’ of urban legend, it is categorically untrue. *Although the deer blood story at number two has become the stuff 15
  • 18. Perrier Perrier is simultaneously a design classic and an eco-nightmare. Divorced from its teardrop-shaped bottle it doesn’t seem half the product. Yet, its strong sales continue to defy economic downturn and the flak directed at the whole concept of bottled water. Its perennially chic image will be put to even greater test over the coming years, but ever-inventive ad campaigns have so far been equal to the challenge. Although it pains us to admit it, there are some In recent times, growing concerns about French qualities we simply have to admire. sustainability and a stuttering economy have Perrier is the embodiment of many of them: taken some of the shine off bottled mineral effortlessly stylish, alluringly sophisticated and waters. Both our consciences and our wallets unapologetically stubborn. For while the droplet- find it a more difficult purchase to justify, shaped bottle is beautiful and distinctive, it is also a truth that the UNICEF Tap project has impractical. Its curvature and singular contact exploited to brilliant effect. point make it difficult to get down a production Perrier has found ways to stay relevant though. line with any speed. Its limited-edition designs with well-chosen That’s what makes it the genuine article; it’s too partners keep the brand feeling fresh. They also sure of itself to worry about such practicalities. demonstrate the distinctiveness of its core identity. Perrier is brimming with authenticity and that’s For even when it lends its pack canvas to someone why it sells 1 billion bottles a year. else, it remains unmistakably Perrier. JJ The brand didn’t just make mineral water an acceptable soft drink – it made it aspirational. As the line ‘the Champagne of waters’ brilliantly expressed, you really did feel like you were having a special moment when you fizzed open a bottle of Perrier. It was a truly status-affirming brand. 16
  • 19. 17
  • 20. Timeline 1863 Napoleon III gave mineral water status to a spring in Vergèze. La Femme Noire, Villemot 1898 Dr Louis Perrier bought a spring in southern France and began to sell bottled water from his spa. 1903 Sir Saint-John Harmsworth invested in the L’Etreinte, Villemot company, renaming the spring ‘Source Perrier’. 1985 Perrier with a twist was introduced, with lemon, lime and orange flavours. Le Couple Dansant, Villemot 1992 Nestlé acquired Source Perrier. 2001 The brand introduced a PET bottle after 11 years of Cocktail Mondain, Villemot research into which plastic would be most suitable. 2011 Perrier launched Dita Von Teese limited-edition packaging. La Rousse, Villemot 18
  • 21. Did you know? One of the following facts just doesn’t hold water.* Perrier Dita Von Teese, 2011. 1. errier paid a P 2. errier was the first P 3. According to 5. The idea for the reported £250,000 sponsor of the Perrier’s marketing, distinctive shape of to have its product Edinburgh Comedy each bottle of its the original Perrier featured in the 2006 Awards. The first carbonated water bottle is said to have version of Casino winners in 1981, with contains 50 million come to Sir Saint-John Royale. It ran a their production The bubbles. Harmsworth when supporting ad Cellar Tapes, were the he was recuperating campaign featuring Cambridge Footlights, from a car accident. a bottle sporting comprising: Stephen 4. A 1950 advertising The shape of the a dinner jacket and Fry, Hugh Laurie, campaign for Perrier Indian clubs he used beneath it the words, Emma Thompson, declared: ‘Water in his physiotherapy ‘Eau Eau Seven.’ Tony Slattery, which springs out provided the Penny Dwyer as one opens it. inspiration. and Paul Shearer. Water that Laughs. Water like a handful of needles in 6. In 2002, Perrier the mouth.’ introduced a less gassy version of its drink called Eau de Perrier which is sold in blue bottles. *‘Eau James!’ There was no Perrier product placement in Casino Royale, so number one is a downright lie. 19
  • 22. Staedtler The ubiquitous yellow and black pencils it produces are such a part of our cultural fabric that its name is almost invisible. But Staedtler has, with the humble Noris and slightly grander Mars, ensured the ongoing prosperity of an ancient company which still espouses old-fashioned financial planning allied to industry and endeavour. Staedtler products are both beautiful and useful, miniature masterpieces that we should never take for granted. For all its myriad innovations and ranges, it comes The black tail with HB coding is systematic and down to the branding of two pencils that has reassuringly functional. Note there is no rubber made Staedtler the definitive product in its on the tip: wielding this pencil you won’t make category. The yellow-and-black Noris got us mistakes. The Mars helmet icon says this is a pencil started at school; its distinctive livery can that means business – it knows you are going into transport us back to the classroom at a glance. battle against the tyranny of a blank sheet. As we grew up, those of us with a design leaning Poor workmen blame their tools, but a trained became aware of the Staedtler ‘Pro’ – the bright professional selects them with care. Staedtler’s blue Mars. As Apple endured its tough times as graphic purity shows confidence. This gives the the creatives’ computer brand, so the world brand charisma and cachet, and gets it into the respects the Staedtler because it is the weapon hands of designers with rectangular glasses and of choice for designers. wannabes alike. SA We love it because the design is Dieter Rams in a stick. I dislike semiotic mumbo-jumbo, but, in this case, I grudgingly observe there is a semiotic dimension. First the name. Those Germans are precise characters; one assumes they keep their pencils sharp too. The bright blue supports this – it’s a colour of care and consideration. It’s calm and measured, but also bold enough to suggest a bit of personality. 20
  • 23. 21
  • 24. Timeline 1835 The JS Staedtler company was established in Vintage Mars Lumograph box Nuremberg, Germany, following a long history of pencil-making in the area. 1866 Staedtler employed 54 people, with production reaching more than 2 million pencils a year. Staedtler pencil box, inside lid 1922 A US subsidiary was established, followed four years later by one in Japan. Mars eraser 1988 German production was relocated to a bigger site in Moosacher Strasse in North Nuremberg. 1997 The Staedtler Foundation, a non-profit Noris Club colouring pencils organisation that holds all shares in the Staedtler group, was set up. 2011 The Staedtler Triplus 426 retractable ballpoint Staedtler Warrior Patta footware, 2011 pen won a Red Dot Design Award. 2012 Staedtler’s annual sales of wood-cased pencils reached 65 million, including 33 million yellow- and-black Noris pencils. 22
  • 25. Did you know? One of these pencil stories wants to lead you astray.* 1. n 2011, Staedtler’s I 3. Staedtler has 5. isitors to its V 6. he reason why T turnover was £220m. developed an factories are not Staedtler can claim The company has no anti-break system allowed to see the to be more debt and is reluctant for its coloured production line environmentally ever to borrow, pencils which it where the friendly is that it preferring to invest claims has boosted WOPEX pencil uses mashed-up profits in expansion sales. The extra is manufactured. wood in its pencil programmes thus, coating around the manufacture. This growing more slowly, pencil stops them enables roughly but sustainably. breaking when 80% of every tree sharpened. to be used rather than the 20% which 2. ohannes Bell and J is the norm in most Hermann Müller 4. n advert for A pencil manufacture. signed the Treaty Staedtler shows an of Versailles for actor playing Albert Germany using Speer arriving at Staedtler pens. Adolf Hitler’s office. The treaty was He says, ‘I only came so despised within to see your Staedtler,’ Germany, the but Hitler snaps it in company actively two and drops it to sought to suppress the floor. this information. it’s bogus in the first place. Number two is untrue. *No need to suppress that Treaty of Versailles story as 23
  • 26. Hermès Uncompromising on quality as well as price, luxury goods manufacturer Hermès is proof that there is more than one way for a company to make itself recession proof. Still family run and still employing individual craftsmen to make luxury luggage items in their entirety, Hermès stands apart from all accepted wisdom about mass production. It successfully caters for that small (but sizeable) elite that never need to see the price tag. Here’s a brand that creates desire beyond reason, That lovely word ‘atelier’ comes to mind: yet succeeds through rigorous control of its craftsmen and women in workshops using the products as much as through emotional flights best materials and the best (often very traditional) of fancy. A brand famous for maximalist scarves methods, and hang the expense. and, conversely, its super-simple, but highly prized These skills are put at the service of ‘art’ – boxes. A brand continually innovating, while also from the stunning scarf designs to the bonkers remaining somehow faithful to its traditional roots. shop windows and the ultra-contemporary A brand with a cutting edge aesthetic, yet one that homeware. In Britain we might say that quality your granny would love to wear. In short, with should be known, not shown. In Europe it’s both, Hermès, the relationship between design and with knobs on. The marriage of art and craft – business has some inherent contradictions, is this not what all great design strives to be? but it all works beautifully. Eye-watering prices, offered without a blink, simply Perhaps it successfully embraces contradiction compound the impression of excellence. SA because all its designs share two fundamental qualities: skill and art. On the one hand, this is a brand of craftsmanship, from the high-end- saddle making to the ‘hand rolled’ hems of its scarves. As with a fine Cuban cigar, one knows ‘it’s the best’. 24
  • 27. 25
  • 28. Timeline 1837 Thierry Hermès established an elite harness workshop in the Grands Boulevards quarter of Paris. Satyr-winged saddlebag 1880 Thierry’s son Charles-Émile Hermès branched out into saddlery and relocated the shop to Hermès wallet 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where it remains today. 1918 Thierry’s grandson Émile, noting the advent of the motor car, changed the firm’s direction toward the production of luggage. Hermès scarf 1935 The company introduced a leather Sac à Depêches, later known as ‘the Kelly bag’ after Grace Kelly held it in front of her in a 1956 photograph to hide her pregnancy. Hermès gift boxes 1937 Silk scarves were introduced. 1999 The company acquired a 35% stake in the Jean-Paul Gaultier fashion house. Advertising, China 2012 Hermès celebrated its 175th year in business with a London exhibition called ‘Leather Forever’. 26
  • 29. Did you know? There’s fabrication afoot in the following.* Hermès flagship store Tokyo, 2011. 1. ne Hermès scarf, O 3. n 1918, Hermès I 5. ctress and throaty A 6. African dictator, normally costing brought out the chanteuse, Jane Mobutu Sese Soko, between £230 and first leather golfing Birkin, helped once bought the £500, is sold every jacket with a zipper. Hermès develop entire contents of 30 seconds. The a handbag after a a Parisian Hermès Carré, as it’s known, conversation with outlet and was famously used Jean-Louis Dumas threatened to kill by actress Sharon 4 . y the mid-90s, B when she the manager. He Stone for a bondage Jean-Louis Dumas complained that was subsequently scene in Basic Instinct. and all the Hermès her ‘Kelly bag’ banned for life from family were on the was not practical. all Hermès stores. Forbes ‘List of However, she Billionaires’. apparently no 2.The original Hermès longer uses a Birkin box was cream- herself as she coloured with gilded believes it gave edging. Shortages her tendonitis. during the war forced the company to use the only plain paperboard available – which happened to be the now legendary orange. but number six is 100% fake. *Don’t let the cat out of the hand-tooled bag, 27
  • 30. Moleskine Moleskine notebooks might have a slightly fanciful history, but what sustains them in the present and underpins the company’s success is that they represent a little piece of affordable luxury. They elevate any piece of writing (even if it is just a shopping list) into something a little more pleasurable and, dare we say it, sensual. If that puts us a little closer to our inner Picasso or Wilde, where’s the harm in that? Moleskine gave the archetype of an artist’s journal Seeing it adopted by the world of business solid form, reviving a traditional format and serving meetings rankled with me. It seemed vainglorious it up as a definitive classic. to suggest that notes from a dreary meeting might follow in the footsteps of Hemingway. The design’s detailing transformed a fanciful tale of artistic provenance into a real brand. So I applaud the brand for also producing The paper quality, the elasticated binding, the ribbon humbler card-covered versions for these more bookmark and the inside pocket discreetly holding prosaic occasions. These ‘basic books’ have a slip of paper (on which the brand’s back story beautiful detailing. They show design can be about is told) all helps to convince us this is the real deal. quality that is known, not flaunted. Moleskine’s recognition as a status symbol has been achieved These touches got the brand stocked in and through design understatement – be it in the associated with all the right places. This took it boardroom or the backpack. SA from an arty niche to mainstream success. As with Filofaxes in the 1980s, plonking one down on a meeting table became a display of one-upmanship. As an early user I took the original leather-bound version backpacking, using it for its stated purpose – as a notebook for jottings and drawings. The robust design endured myriad climates and much bashing about, becoming a treasured companion. 28
  • 31. Illustration by Raúl Gómez. 29
  • 32. Timeline 1986 Writer Bruce Chatwin immortalised the name Moleskine in his book The Songlines, which later inspired the resurrection of the brand. Van Gogh sketchbook, c.1890 1996 Milanese publisher Modo Modo trademarked the Moleskine name. Production began in China and the notebook was hand-finished in Italy before hitting the market the following year. Moleskine designer Marti Guixe 2004 Photographer Armand Frasco started the fan site Moleskinerie.com. It went on to attract 5,000 visitors a day and Moleskine adopted the site as its official blog. Moleskine City notebooks 2006 Modo Modo was bought by an investment fund for €60m. The business was renamed under the Moleskine brand name. 2008 Limited-edition Lego Moleskine Moleskine America Inc was established, with headquarters in New York. 2010 Moleskine released a limited-edition range featuring Pac-Man to celebrate the video-game Moleskine iPad iPhone covers character’s 30th anniversary. Other special editions have featured Peanuts, Star Wars and artwork by film director Tim Burton. 30
  • 33. Did you know? The veracity of one of these facts is paper-thin.* 1. n 2010, Moleskine I 3. odo Modo’s M 5. oleskine notebooks M 6. Each Moleskine had a turnover of co-owner, are ranked at notebook has £161m. It has grown Francesco Number 122 on an individual by 25% every year Franceschi, has the satirical blog, ID number. from 2006 onwards. conceded that Stuff White People Moleskine’s claims Like. ‘It’s a good of an authentic rule of thumb,’ 2. he first Moleskine T artistic heritage are the blog notes, notebooks were a fabrication. ‘It’s ‘that white people produced with an exaggeration,’ like anything that taupe-coloured he admitted to the old writers and pages, partly as a New York Times, artists liked: play on words ‘It’s marketing, not typewriters, journals, because taupe is science. It’s not the suicide, heroin and French for mole. absolute truth.’ trains are just a few examples.’ 4. here is no official, T accepted way to pronounce Moleskine. have taupe-coloured pages. So number two isn’t true. *Taupe is French for mole, but original Moleskines did not 31
  • 34. illy Not every luxury brand can justify its price, but family-run illy, purveyors of premium coffee for three generations, can point to several good reasons for charging more than most. It pays its suppliers more, is more exacting in its standards and delivers a better and more consistent taste than its rivals. Simple, really. As a coffee-lover, it’s a treat to write about illy. There are no ‘bum notes’ – even the sugar sticks look Fresh and friendly, but possessing an extra shot like they’ve been loved. Product details and other of Italian sophistication, it is the definitive article. information keep a respectful distance from the logo, which is always set elegantly on white or silver. So what does illy teach us? Above all else, it is So, wherever you see it, illy appears loud and proud. a masterclass in how to leverage a logo. The red mark is brazenly stamped on anything and Lastly, the logo always seems to be in good company. everything: cups, awnings, ashtrays and any other Be it the sleek metal tins or the quirky espresso surface that can be found. Its signage epitomises cups, everything tells you that illy is mighty fine this approach – treated reverently, like a flag, coffee. Speaking of which, it might just be time ensuring you can’t miss it. for a cup… JJ There are three reasons why illy has made this simple strategy work so well. First, the brand has a really likeable logo at its heart. The typography is brimming with personality and housed by the bright-red background, it puts a spring in your step before you’ve even taken a sip. Second, it is consistently executed with care. 32
  • 35. 33
  • 36. Timeline 1995 Andrea Illy co-authored Espresso Coffee: the Chemistry of Quality, about the science and technology of coffee. illy espresso cup saucer 1996 Artist James Rosenquist designed the red square illy logo, which is still used across the brand’s products. illy FrancisFrancis! X1 espresso machine 2000 The University of Coffee was created. It has taught coffee culture, from bean to cup, to the 5,000 students who have attended to date. 2003 The company launched Espressamente illy, ‘Galleria illy’ advertising a chain of Italian-style bars with innovative design concepts. 2005 illy opened its first gallery in the SoHo district of New York City, displaying work from leading international artists and design students. Alioum Moussa ‘All create together’ can 2009 illy partnered Coca-Cola to launch a ready-to- drink coffee range, called illy issimo. ‘Galleria illy’, London 34
  • 37. Did you know? One of these leaves the bitter aftertaste of deceit.* The illy Art Collection featuring designer espresso cups, 2010. 1. n 1991, illy began I 3. lly was the first i 5. Andrea Illy, boss 6. he illy logo was T a competition company to sponsor of the company, painted by the pop to find the best the Italian national disagrees strongly artist, James growers of sun- football team. with Fairtrade: Rosenquist. It dried arabica in ‘Our doctrine is was originally part Brazil. The prize that we will pay of a bigger painting for the winner 4. n 1988, illy I more for better which hangs in was to become its introduced a quality. Fairtrade Andrea Illy’s office. supplier. illy doesn’t computerised is about paying a use middlemen system for checking higher price for the and it pays every individual same goods. That is Brazilian farmers bean which rejects against the laws of the difference. those which don’t supply and demand.’ meet its rigorous selection criteria. 2 . s well as its A famous coffee, the illy group also produces teas, chocolate, jam and wine. *All truth has been filtered from number three. 35
  • 38. Playmobil There is something joyous about a company succeeding while resisting the lures of movie tie-ins and merchandising opportunities. Instead, Playmobil has put its faith in children’s imaginations. The German company has not only shunned the advances of movie franchises, but even dares not to give its creations real names, lest it should discourage children from coining their own. When one trots out clichés about the Germans, Civilisation is a result of our mastering of tools great toymaking is not top of mind. But they do and our imaginative application of them. With the excel at it, with a tradition for making things very, learning tool that is Playmobil, whole civilisations very well. can be made in microcosm. Children can create and order their own particular universe, learning Playmobil is a case in point. On one level, we see about how everyone can play their part and how charming little characters inhabiting a jolly place, everything connects. No small achievement for their adventures played out under the packaging’s little toys that can be bought for almost pocket- blue skies. Nothing too dark is likely to happen. money prices. However, one look at the design blueprints reveals a totally considered product – Garish ‘cross-platform digitally interfacing’ ergonomically, aesthetically and conceptually. successes such as Moshi Monsters and Skylanders are likely to make Playmobil reflect on how it The folk are designed to fit into a child’s hand. might evolve and stay relevant. I hope not – Robust and collectable, it’s the interchangeable I think its own little world suits it just fine. SA nature of the little characters’ costumes and props that is the design’s stroke of genius. There is every chance a pirate might swap his cutlass for a baby’s stroller or his tri-cornered hat for a construction helmet. He may even end the day a princess. 36
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  • 40. Timeline 1954 Horst Brandstätter joined the family company started by his grandfather in 1876. He moved into manufacturing plastic goods; its first Playmobil Cowboy set success was the hula hoop. 1973 Hans Beck created Playmobil for Brandstätter. Playmobil Adventure Brachiosaurus 1976 The first female figures were introduced. 2003 Playmobil celebrated its 30th birthday. A golden knight toy was produced to mark the occasion. Playmobil Dad’s BBQ 2006 Playmobil figures gained articulated feet in honour of the World Cup. Playmobil Pizza Guy 2011 Playmobil achieved turnover of €564m. Playmobil Speckled Horse 38
  • 41. Did you know? ‘Shiver me timbers!’ Lurking among these is a lie that would make a posable pirate blush.* Image courtesy of Mark Wilson. 1. nusual Playmobil U 3. n Spain, Playmobil I 5. arketed under the M 6. Joy Division’s sets which have been is produced under title ‘Gaymobil’, September 1979 released include: a licence by the toy it’s possible to buy appearance on Knife-Throwing company, Famosa. a set of Village Something Else Circus Act, a Vulture It is marketed as People Playmobil performing Cow Carcass, a ‘los clicks de comprising: a ‘Transmission’ has Hazardous Materials Famobil’ with male construction worker, been recreated in Clean-up Team and dolls known as a Native American, stop-motion an Axeman. ‘clicks’ and females a cowboy, a animation with as ‘clacks’. policeman, a sailor Playmobil characters. and a motorbiker. 2. n April 1st 2011, O the ThinkGeek 4. Japan boasts toy website released figures similar to a spoof Playmobil those made by version of an Apple Playmobil and Store, released ‘to known as Kubricks, introduce children named in honour of to the magic the late film director. of Apple’. it does not sadly exist in reality, making a liar of number five. *Although a spoof version of said Village People exists on the internet, 39
  • 42. Citroën Dogged by financial problems for much of its existence, Citroën has nevertheless survived and prospered in the 21st century. While the nostalgic might argue it has sacrificed quirkiness for the safety of the middle market, it remains a flagship of French technical expertise. Name a car that epitomises French style. How about Citroën has not always been so happy. With the Citroën 2CV? Or the DS? To create a vehicle weak cost management, its avant-garde designs that defines a national character is quite something. necessitated high prices and after the market To do so a second time, from the opposite end weakened due to the 1973 oil crisis, the company of the market, is a remarkable achievement. went under. Rescued by Peugeot, Citroën was left to pursue diluted designs built on shared components. As designers, we regularly glean the germ of our most successful ideas from the subtext in the However, mass mediocrity is ultimately brief. The 2CV, for example, took its inspiration unsustainable without cost-leadership. We should from the desire to ‘provide the peasantry with draw inspiration from Citroën’s recent success in a motorised alternative to the horse, capable of commanding higher prices following its return transporting a tray of eggs over cobbled roads’. to more progressive design with the new-look DS The resulting suspension had the travel of a coil- range. AK spring mattress. The aerodynamic DS was conceived in secret during the latter years of the German occupation. It was deliberately designed to reassert French pride and became so closely associated with General de Gaulle, it must have been created for him. Sadly, however, the story of 40
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  • 44. Timeline 1923 A Citroën 5CV became the first car to be driven around Australia. The original vehicle, restored and in working order, is now owned by the National Museum of Australia. Eiffel Tower sponsored by Citroën, 1925 1925 Founder André-Gustave Citroën advertised the company by putting its name in lights across the Eiffel Tower. The sign remained there until 1934. Advertising, 1960s 1937 Pierre-Jules Boulanger became president of Citroën and a year later joint managing director of Michelin. Citroën 2CV, 1979 1961 Flaminio Bertoni designed his last car, the Ami 6. Though no match for the 2CV and DS 19, elements influenced 1960s car design. Citroën C1 Airplay, 2006 1974 Peugeot acquired a stake in Citroën, increasing it to a majority shareholding two years later, creating the PSA Group – later renamed PSA Citroën DS3 Racing car, 2011 Peugeot Citroën. 2009 Celebrating its 90th anniversary, Citroën refreshed its brand with an updated logo and new slogan, ‘Créative technologie.’ It also introduced a premium car range, bringing back the DS name. 42
  • 45. Did you know? One of these car facts is definitely a ringer.* Citroën Metropolis concept car, 2010. 1. he first motorised T 2. French President, 3. Although seemingly 5. he Citroën logo T crossing of the Charles de Gaulle ill-equipped to star in of two inverted ‘V’s Sahara desert, from was travelling in a car chase, a Citroën is actually a graphic Algiers to Timbuktu, an unarmoured 2CV featured in representation of was undertaken Citroën DS (The arguably the most a herringbone in December 1922 by Goddess) when memorable scene gear-wheel design, a convoy of Citroën he survived an in 1981 Bond film, reflecting the fact Half Tracks assassination For Your Eyes Only, that early Citroën (Autochenilles). attempt in the when it provided models used a It took 21 days Parisian suburb an unlikely means herringbone bevel to complete the 2,000 of Petit-Clamart of escape for gear final drive in mile expedition. in August 1962. Roger Moore. the rear axle. De Gaulle attributed his survival to the 4. Dusseldorf electro 6. y the end of its first B unique suspension pioneers, Florian day on display of the car which Schneider and Ralf at the Paris motor enabled it to escape Hütter of show of 1955, a at full speed despite Kraftwerk, both staggering 12,000 having two tyres collect Citroën people had paid shot out. The HY vans. deposits to own the attempt was new Citroën DS. recreated in the opening scene of The Day of *Zut alors! Nombre four is built on a chassis of deceit. the Jackal. 43
  • 46. Roberts Revival There’s a good chance that a Roberts radio played a part in the formative memories of many a baby boomer. Its renaissance, in the form of the Roberts Revival, has in part been driven by that generation’s delight in being able to purchase a part of its childhood. True to its pioneering spirit however, Roberts has been reborn by embracing change rather than simply appealing to nostalgia. It is proof that modern technology fused with classic design is a potent combination in any era. Today the idea of a radio that does only radio is, offer. It means they should retain relevance long arguably, an anachronism. Roberts was part of after the vintage fad has faded and the ‘Keep calm’ broadcasting when ‘wireless’ didn’t mean streaming poster has been removed from the kitchen wall. audio via a PC. Nevertheless, the Roberts Revival Roberts still looks stylish because its compact, is a good example of a particular kind of ‘vintage’ simple form followed function. If it had really design; it’s progressive retro. Which is to say it embraced the design fashions of the time it might might look as ‘home and hearth’ as a brown have aged less successfully. Today there are plenty teapot, but under the skin it’s bang up-to-date. of funky modern alternatives around, but I suspect Trying to switch on an internet-linked model your PC will be obsolete or look old-fashioned far at a pal’s house recently, the minimal buttons quicker than a Roberts. SA proved too modern for me to figure out myself and I had to ask for help. It might look old enough for a free bus pass, but I was the one left having a ‘senior moment’. Roberts still has a twinkle in the eye and contemporary engineering inside. Being progressive retro puts it in good design company, alongside the Aston Martin DBS, the Coke Classic aluminium bottle, Gucci by Gucci and suchlike. These are brands using nostalgia that also have an ‘of-the-moment’ quality or product 44
  • 47. 45
  • 48. Timeline 1940 Harry Roberts received a letter telling him the Queen had personally purchased a Roberts M4D model in the radio department of Harrods. Advertising, 1951 1959 Roberts modified one of its existing sets at the request of St John’s College, Cambridge, for a battery-powered shortwave radio to take on an expedition to Colombia. Roberts R505 1961 The company produced a special-edition, solid-gold-cased radio. The publicity stunt attracted worldwide attention when it was stolen from a department store. ‘The Digital Radio Collection’ 1969 Harry Roberts died and was succeeded by his son, Richard, as chairman and managing director. 2000 A special edition ‘Revival’ was created for the Queen Mother to commemorate her 100th birthday. Cath Kidston Roberts 2012 The brand marked its 80th anniversary with a red, white and blue range celebrating the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. Swarovski Roberts 46
  • 49. Did you know? One of these is broadcasting on FM (Flagrantly Mendacious).* Jack Train (ITMA’s Colonel Chinstrap) drawing the crowds at Earls Court in 1956. 1. oberts launched the R 3. or many years F 4. n the company’s I 5. Roberts is the only first solar-powered Roberts radios were earliest days, company permitted DAB radio. the only type of founders Harry to engrave BBC transistor allowed in Roberts and Leslie World Service UK prisons as their Bidmead were on its products. cases could be easily offered a free 2. The Roberts Sports removed in any weekend in a hotel 984 radio was the search for in Cornwall if world’s first 3-band contraband. The they could 6. Canadian singer- personal stereo and 1975 Rambler 2 demonstrate that songwriter, Robbie was designed model was even one of their radios Robertson and the primarily with designed with the would work there. late broadcaster, cricket-lovers in prison population Robert Robinson, mind as it was in mind. both featured in capable of picking advertising for up Test Match Special Roberts radios in which was then the 1970s. broadcast on Long Wave. 1970s ad campaigns, making number six the all-too-obvious fib. *Band frontmen and combed-over quizmasters played no part in the company’s 47
  • 50. MTV When MTV has been at its most successful, the hair displayed on its screens has always been big. From the luxurious manes of the New Romantics to the backcombed edifices witnessed on Jersey Shore, coiffures of magnitude have served as a barometer to the station’s fortunes. That the barnets in question no longer have anything to do with music might also be significant. Through MTV’s formative decade, its logo acted ‘The MTV generation’ defined an entire era and as a canvas for the whims of generations of when a design helps put your brand at the heart designers, as it was constantly reinterpreted of popular culture, success will surely follow. and played with. Unlikely to win a typographic That was then. Look on YouTube for compilations beauty contest, the design instead developed a of MTV idents. They predate the current approach, big personality. Like one famous early version, which is telling. The logo remains, but it’s less planted by an astronaut on the moon, it was a spirited and colourful. It was a creative springboard; pioneer. The design application’s kinetic exuberance now it’s a corporate anchor. It makes strategic was a fantastic complement to the shouted slogan sense, as the brand has diversified, and the less ‘I want my MTV’; it looked like a cheery yell. soulful expression seems fitting for the home of As a design lesson it was proof that the medium Jersey Shore. We get the designs, culture and media can be the message. What I mean is that the we demand. SA myriad funky ways in which it was expressed made it visually reflective of the channel’s fast-cut video content. It defined the style of the ‘video age’ as much as represented it. Which came first, the wonky claymation versions of the logo, or the video for Peter Gabriel’s ‘Sledgehammer’? 48
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  • 52. Timeline 1989 The world premiere of Madonna’s ‘Like A Prayer’ video aired on the channel. 1989 MTV Unplugged aired for the first time, showcasing acoustic performances from acts such as Nirvana and LL Cool J. 1992 Presidential candidate and Arkansas governor Bill Clinton answered young people’s questions in the first of MTV’s Choose Or Lose forums covering politics. 2000 Comedy show Jackass debuted on the channel, produced by Johnny Knoxville, Jeff Tremaine and director Spike Jonze. 2002 The world’s first celebrity reality TV show, The Osbournes, was broadcast by MTV. 2009 Jersey Shore became the number-one show on US TV and MTV’s most successful series yet in terms of ratings. 2011 Mike Judge’s Beavis and Butthead returned to MTV. It initially ran from 1993 to 1997. 50
  • 53. Did you know? One of these is to truth what Jersey Shore is to reality. And truth.* 1. he first words heard T 3. uring a mid-90s D 5. ussell Brand was R 6. he last book Gore T on MTV, spoken by slump in the sacked from his job Vidal completed John Lack, were: channel’s fortunes, at MTV when he before his death in ‘Ladies and The Simpsons turned up to work 2012 was A Shore gentlemen, mocked it by having dressed as Osama Thing written by rock and roll!’ Bart write on his bin Laden on Snooki from MTV’s chalkboard, September 12th reality show, ‘I no longer want 2001. He has since Jersey Shore. 2. MTV show, Beavis my MTV.’ presented both the and Butthead, was channel’s music and accused of inspiring video awards. a series of arson 4. Ex-Monkee, Mike incidents because Nesmith, is seen by of children imitating some as the Beavis and his ‘hot godfather of MTV love for fire’. Beavis because he is partly modelled produced a half- on Barry Manilow. hour pilot for a music video show, Popclips. He had the option of shares in the fledgling MTV but opted for a flat fee instead. joined the choir invisible without having sampled the delights of Snooki’s magnum opus. *Heaven forfend that number six should be true! As far as we know, Gore Vidal 51
  • 54. Paul Smith Big in Japan and thriving in most other parts of the world, Paul Smith has been the most visible face of British fashion on the international stage for the past 30 years. In that time, Smith has cultivated an instantly recognisable but never clichéd brand of tailoring that has reflected the classic British look with a twist, which has been his signature from his earliest days. That the man has the same near-universal appeal as his brand only makes the success more deserved. ‘I give classics just a little kick,’ says the great man, The brand’s design is also about the judicious use and that pretty much sums it up; but Paul Smith is of contrasts: those lairy, stripy colours are set off being rather modest. That ‘kick’ works only because by the dark wood floors; the flash of colour on a of the quality of the design and manufacture, and buttonhole is set against a dark grey suit. For we resonates only because it has a genuine sense of repressed chaps stuck with sludgy or monochrome spirit, rather than being something ‘bolted on’. wardrobes, all those bright stripy accessories deliver the equivalent of a pick-n-mix sugar rush Paul Smith’s work feels like the output of an to a five-year-old. enthusiast – from the playful windows to the curating of various art books and objects at the Some brands have consumers; Paul Smith tends back of the shops. One gets a sense of genuine to have fans. A case of getting back what you give, pleasure being taken. You can’t fake this stuff: perhaps? Now, if he could only give an occasional when it’s real you can almost smell it. My art teacher ‘little kick’ to his sometimes snooty staff, life would in the brand’s Nottingham hometown was flown be sublime. SA to Tokyo in the 1980s to paint a trompe l’oeil £5 note on the floor of the brand’s flagship store. That’s pretty bonkers in purely business terms, but success can fall out of such a spirit. 52
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  • 56. Timeline 1970 Smith opened his first shop, in Nottingham. 1976 Paul Smith in his Nottingham store, 1970s First London shop opened in Floral Street, Covent Garden. 1991 Paul Smith received the British Designer Paul Smith Mini Cooper for Industry Award and launched his childrenswear range. 1993 Launched accessories range and the first Paul Smith Women collection. ‘Is that a Paul Smith coat?’ 1995 The company was awarded The Queen’s Award for Industry for export achievement. 2000 Paul Smith received a knighthood. Bertram chair, Paul Smith 2006 Licensee Itochu bought 40% of the business. Paul Smith patchwork shoes, 2009 2011 Paul Smith received Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design accolade at the British Fashion Awards. 54
  • 57. Did you know? The truth has been materially altered in one of the following.* 1. he knighthood T 3. fter making an A 5. In 2001, in 6. n 1976, Smith I given to Paul Smith off-the-cuff remark recognition of his needed £30,000 to was only the second about rabbits long-standing love buy his first premises ever given to a bringing him good of the comic, The on Floral Street in designer, the first luck, Smith has Beano featured Paul Covent Garden from being the Queen’s found that he is Smith as a designer a retired baker. His dressmaker, sent between 10 visiting the Bash bank manager at Hardy Amies. and 20 rabbit- Street School and Barclays wouldn’t themed gifts from lecturing the kids lend him anything around the world in Class 2B. – ‘he didn’t like the 2. mith published his S every week. fact that I had long first book in 2001. hair and a red scarf.’ Entitled, You Can But he scraped Find Inspiration in 4. he rent on T together £20,000 and Everything, it was Paul Smith’s first the baker let him described by Smith boutique in have it for £25,000. as his ‘brain on Nottingham, Paul the page’. Smith Vêtement Pour Homme, was 50p a week. The shop was scented with Christian Dior Eau Sauvage to mask the smell of he has not featured in an episode of The Bash Street Kids. his Afghan hound. *Sorry reader, but while Paul Smith does indeed love The Beano, 55