67 Mont Blanc rock, ice and mixt routes Autore: Marco Romelli Editore: Idea Montagna Argomento: alpinismo Pagine: 288 a colori Data di pubblicazione: 25/07/2012 Formato: 15x21 cm The Mont Blanc range is one of great ascents, where important pages in mountaineering history have been written. However, alongside the hard routes climbable by but a few, there is a plethora of more accessible routes to be discovered, combining beautiful climbing and incredible surroundings. This guidebook allows you a taste of Mont Blanc without worrying too much about sporting performance. www.ideamontagna.it/librimontagna/libro-alpinismo-montagna.asp?cod=40

1. rock&ice 1
mont blanc
classic & plaisir
Marco Romelli
MarcoRomellimontblancclassic&plaisir
1
THEAUTHOR
Marco Romelli, native of Lombardy in Northern Italy,
has been a mountaineer for twenty years, concen-
trating mainly on the Mont Blanc massif. Illustrator
of mountaineering guidebooks and magazines, his
passion for the mountains does not stop at climbing,
which runs alongside drawing and photography in the
constantsearchforacompleteaestheticexperience.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Thanks go to Alpine Guide Patrick Gabarrou for the
interesthehasshowninthisnewbook.
ThankstoAlpineGuideRaymondAngéloz(managerof
the Cabane d’Orny),Alpine Guide Armando Chanoine
(manageroftheMonzinohut)andAlpineGuideHervé
Thivierge (www.grimpailler.com) for invaluable infor-
mationonpre-existingitinerariesandnewroutes.
A special thank you to Elise Longin for her work and
support throughout the writing of this guidebook,
fromrepetitionsofroutestohistoricalresearch.
Thanks also to Lucie Havelkova for indispensable
“logistical support”,Alpine Guide Alessio Conz (www.
lagoraiavventura.it) and Valentino Cividini for numer-
ous photos, Enrico Mazzoleni for having given the
author the “bug” of passion for the magical world of
MontBlanc.
Thanks to all the friends who have posed for photos,
submitted images and accompanied the author pa-
tiently on many repetitions and photography recces
whichwereessentialtotherealizationofthiswork.
Au Vieux Campeur
Crédits photos : C. Durando - Test Flow/AVC - S. Jaulin
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AU VIEUX CAMPEUR EN FRANCE : 9 VILLES
LA CARTE CLUB AU VIEUX CAMPEUR
C’EST : 10% DE REMISE
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ET PARFOIS MIEUX…
LA CARTE CLUB AU VIEUX CAMPEUR
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€24,509 788897 299219 >

2. 5
Opening a book about Mont Blanc is always a moving experience for me,
a mountain which I’ve dreamed of so much and which has given me so
many dreams in return.
First of all,I remember the moment when I discovered these mountains,
at fourteen years old, thanks to Gaston Rebuffat’s beautifully entitled
book,“Mont Blanc,jardin féérique”*.I am immensely grateful
to Rébuffat, who through this book revealed to me a true
high-altitude treasure, something I’d only dreamed of,
confusedly and ardently, coming from a flat region with
no mountains.
And then there are numerous memories of hours and
hours spent there, in the heart of these mountains, which
little by little have become engraved in my memory. As well as
these, though, are the precious faces of so many companions, illumi-
nated by the light and shade of the mountains. Faces alight with effort
or enthusiasm, with fatigue or joy, with worry or relief, with wonder or
confusion...
Let this book, so clearly the product of a true lifetime passion, reveal to
its readers those great places where dreams are made, along the main
roads or secret corners of this inexhaustible “enchanted garden”. Let it
guide you in the realisation of those dreams, accomplished and wholly
shared in that unique relationship between climbers.
Patrick Gabarrou
*Jardin féérique: enchanted garden
First Edition: June 2012
ISBN: 978-88-97299-21-9
Idea Montagna Editoria eAlpinismo
Via Guido Rossa,17 - 35016 Piazzola sul Brenta PD - Italy
Tel.+39 049 9601797
info@ideamontagna.it - www.ideamontagna.it
General Coordination: Francesco Cappellari
Graphic Design: Rossella Benetollo - Officina Creativa - Padova
Layout,image processing,maps: Irene Cappellari
Illustrations/sketches: Marco Romelli
English translation: Lynne Hempton
Printed by: Litocenter Srl per conto di Idea Montagna Editoria eAlpinismo
Cover Photo: CosmiquesArête (Photo: Marco Romelli)
All rights reserved.
Reproduction,including partial reprodution of text,drawings and photographs prohibited.
Warnings:
Rock climbing is a potentially fatal activity.The present guide is intended only for experienced
rock climbers who are aware of the risks involved.
This guidewas compiledwith the utmost care but there is no guarantee against the possibility
of errors or omissions.The use of the information contained herrein is at the user’s own risk.
The author and the publisher do not accept any responsability for any misadventure or any
other consequences of its use.
Preface
PHOTOGRAPHS
All the photos were taken by the author,apart from images of huts and those specified below:
Raymond Angéloz pag. 20 e 31 in basso; Carlo Barbolini pag.239; Davide Barcella pag. 225; Emer Bavelloni pag. 57 in
alto;DavideBordetpag.116inbasso;ArmandoChanoinepag.215;ValentinoCividinipag.50,82,92,171(alto),177,226,
235,240,263;AlessioConzpag.227,228e229inalto;GianPaoloDeNicolòpag.210(alto),214;FabioDiFedepag.44in
basso; Elise Longin pag.35 in basso,234,283; Enrico Mazzoleni pag.128,161 (alto),166,168,229 (basso),238 (basso);
Francesco Melchiori pag.254;Jeffrey Moskowitz pag.99; Brendan O’Sullivan pag.133 (basso); Claude Quenot pag.112.
Idea Montagna has collaborated closelywithADMO (Associa-
tion for Bone Marrow Donation) - in the Climb for Life project,
which aims to raise awareness about stem cell transplants
(and the lives which this process can save) in the mountain-
eering community.
www.admo.it - www.climbforlife.it
http://www.ideamontagna.it/librimontagna/libro-alpinismo-montagna.asp?cod=40

3. 98
031 Pointe Lachenal - Pointe Lachenal Traverse 150
032 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Négri 152
033 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Grisolle 154
034 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Mazeaud 156
035 Triangle du Tacul - Goulotte Chéré 158
036 Mont Blanc du Tacul - Normal Route 160
037 Mont Maudit - Tour of the East Ridge 162
038 Monte Bianco - Three monts Traverse 164
SEVEN ST. GERVAIS - LES CONTAMINES 169
039 Monte Bianco - Normal Route via the Aiguille du Gouter and the Bosses Ridge 176
040 Aiguille de Bionnassay - Ridge Traverse 179
041 Dômes de Miage - Mettrier Ridge to the East Dome 183
042 Dômes de Miage - Traverse from East to West 186
043 Aiguille Nord de Trélatête - Normal Route of the NNW Face 189
EIGHT VAL VENY - SEIGNE 191
044 Aiguille des Glaciers - Normal Route 198
045 Dôme de Neige des Glaciers - Lanchettes Ridge 201
046 Petit Mont Blanc - Normal Route 204
047 Aiguille Est di Trélatête - East Ridge 206
048 Aiguille du Châtelet - Idroelettrica or Hydrotecnique 209
049 Aiguille Croux - Ottoz Route on the SE Face 211
050 Aiguille Croux - Cheney Route via the S Ridge 215
NINE POINTE HELBRONNER - COL DU GÈANT 219
051 Dent du Géant - Normal Route on the SW Face 224
052 Aiguille de Rochefort - Normal Route via the Rochefort Ridge 227
053 Aiguilles d’Entrèves - SW-NE Traverse 230
054 Tour Ronde - Normal Route via the SE Ridge 233
055 Tour Ronde - North Face 237
056 Tour Ronde - Gervasutti Couloir 239
057 Roi de Siam - Le Lifting du Roi 242
058 Pyramide du Tacul - East Ridge or “Ottoz Route” 245
TEN VAL FERRET 249
059 Parete dei Titani - Génépi 1-2 253
060 Monts Rouges de Triolet - Le Chamois Volant (3289m summit) 255
061 Monts Rouges de Triolet - La Bérésina (3327m summit) 259
062 Mont Dolent - Normal Route 262
ELEVEN AIGUILLES ROUGES 265
063 Le Brévent - La Frison-Roche 270
064 Aiguille de Charlanon - Arête du Doigt 273
065 Aiguille de l’Index - Perroux Route-SE Ridge Combination 277
066 Pointe Gaspard - Gaspard Premier 281
067 Aiguilles Crochues - South Ridge to South Summit (Ravanel Route) 283
PREFACE 5
INTRODUCTION 6
GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION 10
TECHNICAL INFORMATION 12
USEFUL CONTACTS 18
ONE ORNY - TRIENT 19
001 Gendarme d’Orny - Papa Paye Route 24
002 Aiguille de la Cabane - Voie du Bon Accueil 28
003 Aiguille d’Orny - La Moquette 32
004 Aiguilles Dorées - Copt Couloir 36
005 Aiguille Sans Nom - S Arête and half traverse of the Aiguilles to the E 41
006 Tête Blanche - N Face 46
TWO TOUR BASIN 49
007 Aiguille du Tour - Normal Route to the S Peak 54
008 Aiguille du Tour - Couloir de la Table 58
009 Aiguille du Chardonnet - Forbes Arête 60
010 Aiguille du Chardonnet - Éperon Migot 65
THREE ARGENTIÈRE BASIN 69
011 Petite Aiguille Verte - Normal Route 74
012 Petite Aiguille Verte - Chevalier Couloir 76
013 Aiguille de l’Argentière - Normal Route via the Milieu Glacier 79
014 Aiguille de l’Argentière - Couloir en Y 82
015 Aiguille du Refuge - Le gateau de Riz 85
016 Aiguille du Génépi - South Arête 88
FOUR MER DE GLACE 91
017 Lower Envers Slabs - Pilier des Rhodo-Dindons 96
018 Lower Envers Slabs - Voie Georges 96
019 Lower Envers Slabs - Vingt Mille Lieues Sous la Neige 96
020 Aiguille du Moine - South Arête 100
021 Aiguille du Moine - Normal Route 104
022 Aiguille Verte - Normal Route via the Whymper Couloir 107
FIVE AIGUILLES DE CHAMONIX 111
023 Aiguille de l’M - NNE Arête 115
024 Lames Fontaine - Voie Abert 119
025 Aiguille du Peigne - Les Lépidoptères 123
026 Aiguille du Peigne - Arête des Papillons 127
027 Aiguille du Peigne - Éperon des Minettes 130
SIX AIGUILLE DU MIDI 135
028 Aiguille du Midi - Cosmiques Arê te 141
029 Aiguille du Midi - Cosmiques Spur 144
030 Aiguille du Plan - Midi-Plan Ridge 147

4. TOUR BASIN

5. 50 51
Albert 1er
Aiguille duTour
Signal
Reilly
Glacier duTour
8
7
9-10
slope descending from the col. From the top of the cable car, take the
path which climbs right over steep grassy slopes to the path coming
from the Col de Balme,without having to reach the col itself (4h to the
hut).There is also a path which climbs along the steep moraine on the
right bank of the Tour valley, joining the other path just before the hut
(signs).This route is direct but arduous,particularly in descent.
The Tour basin is not ideal for combining routes. The iti-
neraries, largely glacial, are very different in terms of
difficulty:whilsttheAiguilleduTourleavesyoureadyfor
more, those returning from a route on the Chardonnet
will normally want a rest. In this case, best to keep this
area for multiple visits: if you have a few days here, re-
laxing on the rock routes of theAiguilles Rouges is a good
way to end the holiday.
One interesting option of linking lower grade routes is to climb a
route on the Aiguille du Tour, traverse to the Trient refuge, climb the N
side of Tête Blanche the following day and then return directly to the
Albert 1er
hut (see route no.006).
Tour Basin
The vast plateau of the Glacier duTour is the last of a series of glaciers
which lie along the Chamonixvalley.TheTrient basin,Swiss territory,
is within striking distance and easily accessed in traverse.At its S and
N borders,two imposing peaks rise up,two opposing poles of glacier
climbing: theAiguille duTour,awash with those taking their first few
steps in crampons,and theAiguille du Chardonnet,which demands
experience both in ascent and descent.
ACCESS
The start point is the village ofTour,which can be rea-
ched from Chamonix by car by heading towards the Col
des Montets.Turn right after the village ofArgentière,
just before the hairpins which lead to the col.Continue
until the end of the road to the chairlift car park.In the
summer,a cable car and a chairlift lead up towards Col de
Balme (2204m),from here a path traverses at length until the
Albert Ier hut,near to the glacier duTour.
In autumn,before the heavy snowfalls,the basin can still be accessed
and the routes are often in condition.When the lifts are closed,the
walk-in is a couple of hours longer.
In the spring,theTour basin is accessed by ski,from theArgentière
glacier,crossing the Col du Passon.
The village ofTour can also be reached by train from Chamonix.About
15 mins from the train station to the cable car.
LETOUR-CHARAMILLON-COLDE BALME CABLE CAR
website: www.compagniedumontblanc.fr
Suggested bases
ALBERT1er
HUT,2702 m
Tel.0033 (0)4 50 54 06 20
Places: 137 beds
Opening period: open in summer, winter refuge during closed periods.
(30 beds)
Situated in the Tour basin, the Albert 1er
hut is the only support base
for this area. During summer weekends, it is not uncommon to find it
completely booked up; should this be the case, as soon as it’s dark,
between the boulders around the building you can see the torches of
many improvised bivvies (lots of camping spots).The hut is accessed
from the Col de Balme along an excellent path,well marked and equip-
ped in part with a handrail (2h).When the lifts are closed,leave the vil-
lage of Tour on foot, initially following a path which cuts across the ski
Mont Blanc - classic & plaisir
Hut

6. 52
Aiguille duTour
Aiguille
Purtscheller
Col sup.
duTour
Col
duTour
Tête Blanche
Aiguille du Chardonnet
AIG. DU COL DU TOUR
Col Du Tour
Col sup.
du Tour
AIG. PURTSCHELLER
3287
3478
3281
TÊTE BLANCHE
3429
PETITE FOURCHE
3513
AIG. DE LA FENÊTRE
3412
GRANDE FOURCHE
3610
Fenêtre du Tour
Glacier de Saleina
3336AIG. FORBES
3489
Fenêtre sup.
du Tour
Glacier
de l'Épaule
Col du
Passon
3456
AIG. DU PASSON
3383
AIGUILLE ADAMS REILLY
3506
BEC ROUGE SUP.
3050
COL DU CHARDONNET
3323le Trident
les Capucins
3570
AIG. DU CHARDONNET3824
AIG. D’ARGENTIÈRE
3900
TÊTE BISELX
3509
AIG. DU TOUR
3544
2883
AIG. DU PISSOIR
3441
AIG. DU MIDI
DES GRANDS
3302
AIG. DU GÉNÉPI
3265
POINTES DES GRANDS
3101
2879
2702
Refuge Albert Ier
Signal Reilly
Croix de Berons
G l a c i e r d e s G r a n d s
P l a t e a u
d u T r i e n t
G
l
a
c
i
e
r
d
u
T
o
u
r
8
7
6
9
10
53
AIGUILLE DU TOUR
Viewed from the Albert 1er
hut, the Aiguille du Tour is a slender rocky
two-pointed pyramid: the N point is 3544m high and the S 3542m.
The latter, which hangs directly over the glacier du Tour, is the more
frequented of the two.
Routes: Normal Route p.54
Couloir de LaTable p.58
AIGUILLE DU
CHARDONNET
TheAiguilleduChardonnetisanisolatedmountain,with
an elegant and complex profile. Located on the far SE
limits of the glacier duTour,perspectives are skewed: only
after a long walk-in do its true dimensions become apparent.
The ascent routes, never dull, and the exposed and dangerous des-
cent make this peak the‘little sister’of Aiguille Verte, which overlooks
it from the nearby upper part of theArgentière glacier.
Routes: ForbesArête p.60
Éperon Migot p.65
Tour BasinMont Blanc - classic & plaisir

7. 5554
Aiguille
Purtscheller
Aiguille duTour
Glacier duTour
Glacier du
Trient
Col sup.du
Tour
8
7
6
007
7
7a
Aiguille S duTour
Aiguille N duTour
7
7a
Aiguille S duTour
Aiguille N duTour
Easy and enjoyable route: The pitches are varied
(glacier traverse, surmounting a col, final wall and
ridge), and the superb panoramas are ever-chang-
ing. It’s impossible even for the most experienced
mountaineer to get bored, should they choose this
route to introduce their friends to glacier travel.
GEAR
Equipment for glacier travel. A couple of long threads
and some ice screws can prove useful in dry seasons,
when the slope underneath the summit is formed of
black ice.
APPROACH
From the Albert 1er
hut, follow the cairned path in a rising traverse
towardstheglacier.Thisisreachedincorrespondencewiththesecond-
aryglacialsnoutwhichdescendsfromtheFenêtreduPissoir(20mins).
AIGUILLE DU TOUR 3544 m
Normal Route to the S Peak
• FIRSTASCENT:
C.G.Heathcote with
M.Andermatten,
18August 1864
• GRADE:
F,I-II
• HEIGHTGAIN:
800 m
• SUPPORTBASES:
Albert 1er
hut
• FEATURES:
Glacier traverse,
easy rocky ridge
Tour BasinMont Blanc - classic & plaisir
007

8. 56 57
with the path coming from the Cabane du Trient). From here, the two
rocky pinnacles of the Aiguille du Tour are visible and within reach.
Continue,aiming for the left (S) peak.Reach the short but steep slope
which descends from the summit, cross the bergschrund and move
lefttoreachtherocks.Followledgestotheright,toasmallcolontheN
ridge.Followtheridgeoverboulders,scratchedbythousandsofcram-
pon points,until the summit (3h from the hut).
DESCENT
Same route.
IDEALCONDITIONS
Extremely busy route from the start of summer to autumn.At the end
of the season or during very warm periods, the final slopes transform
into black ice and there is a risk of rockfall from above. In autumn, af-
ter the first snowfalls,the glacier traverse isverydelicate (hidden and
fragile ice bridges).
OTHER OPTIONS
• 7a from the base of the two small E faces of theAiguille duTour,it is
possible to climb the N peak over slightly more difficult rock sections.
(see photo page 54).
• 7b the N face of Tête Blanche is not far from the Col Superieur du
Tour (20mins of slightly descending traverse along the Plateau duTri-
ent).
ROUTE
The first part of the route follows the right bank of
the glacier du Tour to reach and overcome the Col
Superieur du Tour, then leads across the upper part
of the Plateau du Trient. From here, continue until
the small E faces of the two peaks and climb over
rocks to the summit.
From the Albert Ier hut, once at the glacier du Tour,
traverseaimingtowardstheSignalReilly(2883m),a
small rocky rise underneath the SW ridge of the Ai-
guille du Tour. Go beyond this (possible to go below
orabove),toreachtheupperslopes.Climbobliquely
right, avoiding a treacherous section (large cre-
vasses). Continue until the rocky ridge to the left of
Col Sup. du Tour. Go around its WSW spur to enter
into the narrow secondary valley which descends
from the Col Superieur du Tour, on ever-steepening
slopes.Afewmetresonrockleadtothecol.Descend
easily from the other side onto the Plateau duTrient
and continue ascending, bordering the red rocks of
the sharp Aiguille Purtscheller (usual meeting point
Previous page,above: on the Glacier du
Trient,towards the N and S peaks of the
Aiguille duTour
Previous page,below: N Summit
Above: on the summit
Below: the plateau of the Glacier duTour
Tour BasinMont Blanc - classic & plaisir