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1. BACKPACKIN’
B A C K P A C K I N ’ M A G A Z I N E .V O L U M E 2 . D E C E M B E R - J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 1
F U N I R E L A X I LOW B U D G E T
MY JOURNEY
MIANGAS
ISLAND MY MIANGAS THESIS
HOW TO GET THERE
GO TO
MIANGAS ISLAND
LOCAL CULTURE
MANAMI
FOR THE CONTINUITY
OF SEA PRODUCTS
ACCESORIES : AIR PILLOW I COMMUNITY : SHARE TRAVELLER I BI NEWS : INFO TRIP
WWW.BACKPACKINMAGAZINE.COM
2. CONTENTS CHEERS FOR BACKPACKERS!
BACKPACKIN’ DECEMBER-JANUARY 2011 C
razy fact, Miangas -which count as the
most northern island of Indonesia if
we’re looking on Google Maps- is ad-
mitted as a part of Philippines. Indeed, from
YOU’RE
HERE
01
02 11 HOW TO GET THERE :
GO TO MIANGAS Miangas only takes 6 hours for the Philippines,
03 THERE ARE FLIGHTS to Manado from Jakarta, Sura- meanwhile for the Manado need 3 days, but
04 baya, Makassar, Balikpapan, Denpasar, Sorong,
05 Ternate, Jayapura, Singapore, and Kuala Lumpur. Miangas remains as a part of Indonesian island
06 legally. Miangas is still using Rupiah and the
07
red and white is still flying
21
08
09 LALUGA
BECOMING INFERIOR there.
10 SEA PRODUCTS BECOME the priority. One meter
11 However, it is now.
fish is only for Rp 50.000. Just like other sea shore
12 areas, Miangas has plentiful sea products.
BACKPACKIN’ MAGAZINE STAFF What about 10 years ahead?
13
14 100 years later? Who can
3 MY MIANGAS
THESIS
15
16
EDITOR IN CHIEF :
Ambar Arum
guarantee Indonesia can
25
A YEAR AGO, IN THE middle of 2009, I was given 17 save Miangas as its part
a chance by my campus to show my loyalty to my 18 MELIKU NUSA
FOR MIANGAS
country, as known as K2N, Kuliah Kerja Nyata or 19 SENIOR EDITOR : consistently and the Phil-
INDONESIA WILL BE very disappointed if Miangas
Real Lecture and Work. The 2009 K2N wasn’t a 20 taken by Philippines, just like when Ambalat was Muhammad Iqbal ippines will not bother to
common one because we were asked to do some- taken by Malaysia.
thing for one remote area in the northest area in 21 tamper the existing rules?
Indonesia, Miangas. 22 TRANSLATORS :
Backpackin’ thinks,
23 Annisa M.F. Harahap
24 Anindya Leonita with enough information, will lure tourists to
25
26 Dea Maria Crista tread Miangas. With so many tourists, besides
27 Ryana Andari Purba the economy of Miangas residents would be
28
29 ART AND DESIGN: lifted and the area is reduced from the risk of
30
Galih Permadi being “stolen” by neighboring countries, will
31
32 Odie Destrana also be fishing for passenger ships frequently
33
34 docked to Miangas to smooth the supplying of
MARKETING :
35
36 35 COMMUNITY :
SHARE TRAVELLER Jeremy Gemarista basic needs.
15
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
MANAMI, FOR THE 37 O NOT MAKE THE COST as an obstacle to reach Putri Uloly In this Miangas edition, Backpackin’ got
CONTINUITY OF SEA PRODUCTS 38 your dream to explore the beauty of this nature!
IN A YEAR, THERE are six forbidden months for a lot of material supply of maps, writings and
39 This principle has become the fad of Share Trav-
WEBMASTER :
the society to not step in the sand and exploits sea 40 eler community. photographs from Ferdinand RZ, Eko, Ghamal,
products through all the beach lines. Kurniawan Aji Saputra
41 Devi, and Tipa. Thanks guys.
23 GALLERY
MIANGAS ISLAND
42
43 41 ACCESORIES :
AIR PILLOW
WEBSITE :
www.backpackinmagazine.com
44 SOMETIMES IN THE MIDDLE of the road, we need
Capturing Miangas Island
45 something that we have to take inside the carrier EDITOR IN CHIEF
46 bag. Inappropriate packing will make it hard to get CONTACT/ADVERTISING :
47 the thing and put it back in order. redaksiezinebi@yahoo.com
48
BACK
1 BACK
PACKIN’ PACKIN’ 2
3. MY JOURNEY
MY MIANGAS THESIS MY MIANGAS THESIS
MY MIANGAS
THESIS
BY: EKO BUDI WA
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
A YEAR AGO, IN THE middle of 2009, I was given a
chance by my campus to show my loyalty to my coun-
try, as known as K2N, Kuliah Kerja Nyata or Real Lec-
ture and Work. The 2009 K2N wasn’t a common one
because we were asked to do something for one re-
mote area in the northest area in Indonesia, Miangas.
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3 PACKIN’ PACKIN’ 4
4. MY MIANGAS THESIS MY MIANGAS THESIS
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
At that time, I was still an active stu- There were many things that made me 6 CMT, K2N UI 2009, Eko Budi Wa
Foto : Ferdi Rosman F, Kelompok
hours by boat, meanwhile to go to the sur- waters between Miangas Island (Indonesia)
dent in campus. My experience in Miangas interested in observing Miangas. I am sure rounding islands which are in Indonesia area, and Mindanao Beach (Phillipines), also about
for a month made me make the decision to one day every people in Indonesia will give like Tahuna and Melonguane, it took for about the bottom of the sea between Balut Island
nail my dream to take Miangas as my the- their attention to Miangas, just like they did 24 hours. (Phillipines) and Sulawesi Sea Beach which
sis topic. At first, many people refused it, on Sipadan-Ligitan islands (the islands that But the access to that closest area goes for less than 400 miles distance.
mostly because of the location which is very were in conflict with Malaysia –red). Miangas was limited by Indonesian Government be- The ownership of Miangas Island by
far away, but I still tried. But then, January is the northest island in Indonesia, it is the cause of the worrisome of The Phillipines Indonesia resulted from 1928 Arbitrage Judi-
weather wasn’t support me. Finally I went island that borders Indonesia and The Phil- ruled Miangas. The conflict between Indo- cature in Den Haag. Phillipines was still using
there in April 2010. lipines. To go to The Phillipines only took 2,5 nesia and The Phillipines was related to the the explanation that Las Palmas (Phillipines
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5 PACKIN’ PACKIN’ 6
5. MY MIANGAS THESIS MY MIANGAS THESIS
version of Miangas) was in the square posi- ritory. I was very interested in analising this a big false! Well, there was food seller on the it. I bought many foods for my supplies on
tion based on 1898 Paris Treaty and this was case. deck, but it was complicated for me because boat.
backed by the finding of Pardao (monument) From Jakarta, I flew to Manado. The I brought many stuffs. On the third day, I arrived at Miangas.
of Magelhaens landing on that island in 1512. standard plane ticket was about Rp 700.000. I prefered to stay sit and hold this hun- When I went down from the boat, it seemed
That’s why The Phillipines claimed Miangas If ordered days before the price would cost ger. One big mistake because of the wrong like everyone saw me and said, “here’s the
several times and proposed the island to Rp 500.000. After I arrived in Manado, I took assumption. One day I hold my hunger un- newcomer. What a handsome guy.” I was
United Nation UNCLOS as part of their ter- ‘black’ taxi for Rp 120.000 until Bitung. Most- til the boat moored in Tahuna Island. I went sure they were rarely visited by strangers, in
ly the taxi was ‘mobil sedan’ which is usually straight to search for food. Not many choices fact for my two-month visit, there were no
parked in front of the airport. Rp 120.000 was and the price was very expensive! One wrap strangers.
the standard price. Usually the drivers would of rice contained of egg and noodle priced When I went down the boat, I was in-
asked for Rp 150.000 if he saw the attitude Rp 25.000. Argh! Wished I brought foods terrogated a lot by the police. Well I took it as
of the passenger was like first time coming to from Manado or Bitung, it would be cheaper. a normal thing in Miangas because Miangas
Manado. No need to worry about the crimi- Everything was expensive, including mineral was the tip island and often made as terrorist
nal rate there, it is guaranteed that Manado is water. But what could I do? I had to bought track to enter The Phillipines.
saved for new comer. The people are nice.
The ride took around 2-3 hours. Along “They would feel happy if newcomer who sees it would tell it to other
the journey, the common view was many res- people so that the story would spread.
taurants selling many foods like bat’s meat,
mouse, pig and dog. On the left and right of
the road there were many coconut trees.
From Bitung I took Meliku Nusa boat, sat on
the deck, like other passangers. Actually there
were rented rooms on this boat but I chose
deck because I only had to pay Rp 50.000. It
needed extra fee to enter the room.
I kept sitting, looking at the sea and
observing people around me. If I got bored,
I talked to other passangers. They told me
about the islands group that we had through.
NOVEMBER-DESEMBER I 2010
The islands was beautiful. They would feel
happy if newcomer who sees it would tell it to
other people so that the story would spread.
For me, they were pretty nice to strangers
like me.
There was something wrong with the
boat. No one sold food. I thought the condi-
tion would be like in economy train in Java
that is full with food seller. It turned out to be
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7 PACKIN’ PACKIN’ 8
6. MY MIANGAS THESIS MY MIANGAS THESIS
I observed and get involved also with their
activities. I was interested to examined the
border issue here because first, outside In-
donesia and South East Asia, the study of
border has been developed, mostly in West
Europe and North America’s social sciences
and it has become a new field of studies.
Second, I was just a small group of an-
thropologist who give special attention in
I knew Miangas from my last visit be- the study of border in South East Asia. From
cause last year I have stayed here for a month. this study field brought more attention about
I went straight to the house of the head of the consciousness of border as social-culture ing at fishermen came back from the sea. At ish their call. That if they win the booty, if they
the village. They welcomed me warmly just changing lab, especially in South East Asia. that time, there was only few people there. I lose, well they have to wait again.
like they did on other strangers. From my writing, I would try to discuss a co- was asked to help the fishermen to carry the There was an interesting experience for
For two months, I stayed in the house heren concept about boundary, border area fishes to the land. As a result, I got a fish as me. The ladies of Miangas often flirt me. They
of the village head, including eating there. and frontier area, also to identified research big as half human hand. were very happy if I respond it. All this time,
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
For this friendliness I got, they didn’t want to questions and future agenda of this study of There was many surprises in Miangas, I respond normally to them. Holding my self
receive my money. I gave the money to their border. including the telecommunication. There was from their flirtness was very hard, because
kids instead. For them, I was unite with them I liked Miangas beach so much. It got only one spot with only 100 meters of radius they looked prettier everyday. They tried
and they considered me as their own family the characteristic of very clear water and of signal area. So, the people from that island many ways for me to marry them. Thank God
member and there was no paying for family. clean beach, just like beaches I found in Lom- can only call or text in that area. What was until I went back, I wasn’t tempted by them.
Every day, my activity was interview- bok and Bali. It’s not just only the view that more unique was that only seven people that Believe it or not =P
ing the people about the border concept was beautiful, the society also has their val- can use their handphones to call. If there is
that is hooked with kinship, economy, and ues that they still closely hold. other people who want to call or send texts, *as what is told to Mohammad Iqbal
the development of the area in the border. One afternoon, I sat on the beach, look- they have to wait until that seven people fin-
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9 PACKIN’ PACKIN’ 10
7. HOW TO GET THERE
GO TO MIANGAS GO TO MIANGAS
USE BOAT
USE PLANE
o FROM MANADO TO BITUNG
o
1. You Can Take Illegal Taxi Service
(IDR 120 ribu, 2-3 hours). The black
taxi service is available until the last arrival,
around 10 P.M.
FROM MALAYSIA/SINGAPURA
2. Angkot Manado-Pal 2
(IDR 3.000, 1 hour) and then contin-
jo
ues with small bus from Pal 2-Bitung (IDR
2.500, 2 hours). Usually the small bus is
available from 5 A.M. to 9 P.M. Minibus, that
available 24 hours.
HEADING TO MIANGAS
FROM PAPUA 1. You can take Meliku Nusa boat
The main route of the boat is Bitung
(B) – Tahuna Island (T) – Miangas Island
(Mi) – Melongoane Island (Me). It takes 3
days and 2 nights from Bitung to Miangas
in the good weather condition. (Ticket IDR
50.000). The departure schedule is once in
a 2 weeks, at 8 P.M., but in irregular days.
The passenger will call Chief Adry to get
the info about Meliku Nusa’s schedule.
FROM BALI Meliku has total route: B – T – Mi – Me
FROM SURABAYA/JAKARTA
(2) – Mi – Te (3) – Mi – Me – B. Those are the
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
main directions, but sometimes the ship
HEADING TO MANADO also drop the tourists in at the Siau Island,
Kawio, Tagulandang, Kawaluso, Mamatua,
THERE ARE FLIGHTS to
Marore, Karatung, etc. It depends which is-
Manado from Jakarta, Sura-
lands the tourists want to go. Thise route
baya, Makassar, Balikpapan,
is turned once in a two weeks. The boat
Denpasar, Sorong, Ternate,
stays 2 days in Melongoane and 3 days in
Jayapura, Singapore, and
Tahuna.
Kuala Lumpur.
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8. GO TO MIANGAS GO TO MIANGAS
BEST TIME TO MIANGAS 7. Bring the sport equipments like volley-
ball or football.
1. You have to avoid October until Novem- 8. Don’t go to the pier at nights when the
ber if you want to go there, because the sky is dark.
wave is really dangerous. 9. Bring the Barito (onions, chilli, toma-
2. The best moment is from June to Au- toes), 1 kg each and share it at the place
gust, because at this time the Manami will when you stay (army’s station, navy’s sta-
be held. tion, Miangas’s Koramil station, etc.)
10. Use Telkomsel as your cellphone pro-
THE ACTIVITIES vider. Only the signal from that provider
you can use.
1. Tracking around Miangas beach for 2
11. It is better for you to bring accu and DC
hours. You have to ask for permission from
lights. You can stun the accu at PLN, ar-
Mangkubumi II and also ask the local peo-
my’s station, or at the house of headman
ple to accompany you.
of the village (Apitalau),
2. Tracking to Tanjung Wora. It is connect-
ed with Miangas when the tide is began to
2.You can take Daraki Nusa boat or Ber- 8. Fishing at the pier.
ebb.
kat Takoda boat. 9. Around the island by the army’s rubber
3. Jumping from the wharf and swimming.
It is not recommended because it boat (if it still available). Give them money
4. Hunting the souvenir at the local peo-
takes longer time to go to Miangas from for the diesel fuel around IDR 200.000 or
ple house. There are mat and hat-knitted
Bitung, around 7 days, and the schedule is you also can take the navy’s speed boat.
crafts.
not in a certain time.
5. Going up to the lighthouse and then
3. You also can take Kapal Putih boat. TIPS
continue to the shrine.
The route of this boat is Bitung – Ta-
6. Trying Laluga (a kind of taro), Kenari 1. Respect the local culture.
huna and Bitung – Melongoane. This ship
crab, Baboca (octopus), and Saguer (the 2. During the trip from Bitung to Miangas
is available every day. You have to pay IDR
fermentation of coconut water). and when you stay at Miangas, it is difficult
150.000 for 2 days trip. The departure from
7. Trying to eat raw fish that have been to find food and beverages, if any, must
Bitung is at 8 – 11 A.M., and the departure
formulated. be expensive. You better buy in Bitung or
from Melongoane is at 3 – 9 P.M. This boat
Manado.
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
won’t go to Miangas, but is is an alternative
3. Take enough money. There is no ATM
if you missed Meliku Nusa boat and you CONTACT
4. Sleeping bag is the best choice if you
want to run after it.
want to sleep comfortably at the ship. 1. Chief Adry
4. You can take flight from Manado
5. The wet wipes absolutely will help you if (The chief of Meliku Nusa boat)
by Trigana Air to Melongoane.
you have to use the restroom, because the 085240568118
The schedule is every Monday, Tues-
clean water is rarely available at the ship. 2. Santini
day, and Thursday (fee IDR 350,000),After
6. Be careful with the temptation from Mi- (Melongoane’s woman)
you arrived at Melongoane, you have to
angas’s girls or boys. 081356406083
take Meliku Nusa boat to Miangas.
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9. LOCAL CULTURE
MANAMI
MANAMI,
FOR THE CONTINUITY
OF SEA PRODUCTS
BY : MUHAMMAD IQBAL
IN A YEAR, THERE are six forbidden months
for the society to not step in the sand and
exploits sea products through all the beach
lines.
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10. MANAMI MANAMI
Raja Ampat, Indonesia mainstay snor-
keling and diving place, has one local wisdom
which is called Sasi. On that occasion, some
beach-side areas are sterilized from activi-
ties. No person is allowed to take sea prod-
ucts from that beach part. That tribal law is
strongly held by the people. No one dares to
pass by that beach until the predicate of Sasi
Beach is untied.
Miangas has also that wisdom. Local
people usually called it Manami. Firstly, the
people Sasi-ing one part of the beach for
three to six months. It is usually held in Janu-
ary until June. Myth said, if someone step on Soil Language is the predicate for Mi-
the Sasi beach , he will be fined RP 500.000 angas ancestor language. It is said that from
NOVEMBER-DESEMBER I 2010
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
and get Tukit Tambor, which is to go around the beginning of Miangas, this language has
Miangas while beating a kind of drum and been used. The words are very different from
sing with Bahasa Tanah (Soil Language), Mi- Makassar or Manado language. Only a small
angas original language, which more or less group of people who is able to masters the
mean: I will never do this anymore. Besides language. In tribal ceremonies, Soil Language
that, he is obliged to give food for the whole is often heard.
village in Miangas. Long time ago, there was Until June, where sea waters decrease
a foreigner who surf in the Sasi beach. Well, and the moon is full moon, then it is the sign
of course he got the fine above. for Sasi to finish. The next morning, the main
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11. MANAMI MANAMI
event is held. A long knitted young coco-
nut leaf is made, special for that day. The
knittting is made perfectly to trap fishes
on the sea. All Miangas people must be
there that day, including old man and
women and little children, no excuse.
Even tourists are obliged to come. So “Everyone hold the knitting.
all activities have to be stopped and all Young lads are placed in the
people in Miangas Island have to stand part where the knitted of coco-
in a row on the beach line. nut leaf touch the beach, mean-
Everyone hold the knitting. Young while children are placed in the
lads are placed in the part where the shallow part of the beach.
knitted of coconut leaf touch the beach,
meanwhile children are placed in the
shallow part of the beach. From 8 in
the morning, they have ready on their
position. Those young lads hold up the
beach as deep as 1.5 meters. They hold portant guests. Only for welcoming cer-
on until 11 a.m., where the water is al- emonial. Common guests can ask to be
ready decrease. The fishes in the shallow welcomed by Cakalele dance, though.
beach have no choice than to go inside It is said that in this dancing, the Mian-
the trap. The guys then drive those fish gas people are praying for the guests. If
to the beach side, no need to work hard the guests have good heart, they pray
to fish. the guests would give positive contribu-
Before the fishes are caught, there tions for Miangas. If the guests have bad
is the tribal procession first. Chief tribal intention, they pray the guests would
are pleased to catch the first fish. After stay only for a short time.
that the officials of the area, then tourists or for the longest flag waving that was held in was on manami activity was being stepped Basically, Cakalele dance is a war dance
guests are pleased to catch the fishes. Those the seaside of Miangas. At that time, Manami on. which is to drive away bad people from Mi-
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
fishes are gathered then given to the people was held too. It means that no one is allowed 6 CMT, K2N UI 2009, Eko Budi Wa
Foto : Ferdi Rosman F, Kelompok
angas. Each dancer holds sword as a sign of
of Miangas. Days after that, beach is permit- to step on the beach. On the other hand, flag CAKALELE readiness for war. Total dancer of Cakalele
ted from stepping up and fishes on the sea waving must be done by stepping up on that For important guests that come to Mi- dance are six to twelve people, plus four to
are allowed to be catched or fished, until the beach. angas, the society have Cakalele Ceremony six women as the musicians. Those twelve
next Sasi. Then a small meeting was held be- to welcome them. Actually, Cakalele dance people are the reprentatives of twelve roan-
Unfortunately, Manami as the local wi- tween the elders of tribal. The big question is not only for important guests. Common gan in Miangas. Roangan are a kind of family
dom of Miangas is starting to dissapear. This was, to defend tribal law or country law? They guests used to have the same dancing, but name in Miangas.
condition was clearly seen at the MURI (Indo- agreed to give priority to country law. Finally, since more and more people coming to Mi-
nesia Record Museum –red) record breaking the flag waving was held and the beach that angas, then the dancing was limited for im- *as what is told to Mohammad Iqbal
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12. CULINARY
LALUGA LALUGA
LALUGA it. Usually, they get the chilies from Tahuna.
Their appetite are much alike the Menadon-
Becoming Inferior ese.
SAGUER
BY : MUHAMMAD IQBAL
A very plentiful Coconut gardens make
the Miangas people creative to conjure co-
conut into unique foods. They often keep
coconut water for a week and the fermen-
tation makes it a drink like toddy, which has
become the favorite of the local people. The
name is Saguer and it is only drunk by men.
BABOCA
Baboca is the name for octopus in Mi-
angas (Manadonese called Boboca).The size
is normal, like any other octopus selled in
the sea side along Java and Sumatera. Many
foods are made to from the octopus.
One more terrific thing is the Ketam Kenari
Crab. This food is available in every corner in
“Baboca is the name for octopus Miangas. The size is as big as human head.
It takes a long time to boiled and processed
in Miangas (Manadonese called
Boboca). to be a nice food. Be careful when you hunt
alone, because when fingers nipped by it,
well......
SEA PRODUCTS BECOME the priority. One very cheap. One fish as long as human hand LALUGA
NOVEMBER-DESEMBER I 2010
meter fish is only for Rp 50.000. Just like priced for only Rp !0.000, even the one me- But then, there is the time when the
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
other sea shore areas, Miangas has plentiful ter fish only costs RP 50.000. there is no rice stock left or the boat to Mian-
sea products. No days without eating fish. Indonesian Government and officials, gas cannot through the sea due to high wave.
Though there are many fishermen search- who visit, often give rice to the Miangas At these times, the true Miangas culinary is
ing for fish, it doesn’t affect the sea products people. At the beginning, it was the policy out, the name is Laluga. Paro is grated then
Foto : Various Sources
to decrease. Miangas is still given the grant to make the people doesn’t have to travel to boiled. The output of it is mixed with fish and
of having many fish, even the fishermen will The Philippines to search for rice, because the gravy of the fish. That is Laluga.
give a fish as big as half the human hand for Miangas is very close to The Philippines. Chili is the primary food component
anybody who helped him carries the fishes that must be always available for Miangas
from the boat to the fish sale. The price is people, though they are not the producer of
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14. ON THE SPOT
MELIKU NUSA MELIKU NUSA
MELIKU NUSA FOR MIANGAS
BY : MUHAMMAD IQBAL
INDONESIA WILL BE very disappoint-
ed if Miangas taken by Philippines, just like
when Ambalat was taken by Malaysia. The
song with the lyrics “From Sabang to Mer-
auke, islands are lined...” have been familiar in
the ears of the people of Indonesia, but not
with Miangas. If Sabang and Merauke are the
farthermost points in West and East of Indo-
nesia, Miangas is the most northern point of
Indonesia. It lies at the coordinates 05 º 35 ‘N
- 126 º 35’ east longitude, is listed in the Mian-
gas Village, Nanusa District, Talaud Regency,
North Sulawesi Province.
Meliku Nusa Ship is a major vessel that
used to go to Miangas from Bitung (The most
northern harbor in Sulawesi). The Schedule is
twice a week but not always accurate. Only
God and the captain know the ship schedule.
The entire population of the Nusa Island that
passed by Meliku have the mobile number of
helmsman, Chief Adry (085240568118), if that
number could not be reached, it means that led to Miangas, named Nusa Daraki and Ber-
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
Chief Adry is floating in the sea. His time on kat Takoda. But, both are rarely chosen be-
the sea is almost the same as on the land. cause it took a week for up to Miangas due to
This ship is quite friendly with new transit at many islands, whereas with Meliku
people and presenting two rooms above the Nusa only took 3 days. In addition, both are
steering wheel. Each room can be filled by 3 often fickle, sometimes leaving sometimes
persons. Facilities in each room are TV, WC, not. The vessels are not as as trong as Meliku
and AC. Of course there is an additional fee, Nusa who dare to dock until Miangas, waves
Rp 150.000 for each room. in the North Sulawesi is known challenging
Actually, there is another ship that also enough to do so. In fact, Indonesian warship
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15. MELIKU NUSA MELIKU NUSA
have trouble against the Miangas.
For those who come to Miangas for the first time, first
thing to do is to visit the village head’s house to convey
the purpose, whether research, roads, or find a mate.
In general, society earns a meager living as a fish-
erman. Agriculture is made as a second livelihood. Co-
conut garden decorate almost every corner of Miangas.
They created a copra which can be sold to Bitung and
other places.
They live peacefully side by side. It’s so peaceful
until the economic life in Miangas almost can be said is
Foto : Ferdi Rosman F, Kelompok 6 CMT, K2N UI 2009,
close to the death. In the past, when fishermen returned
“In general, society earns from the sea, he would give away their catch to their
neighbors until the fish was gone. Now, they’re starting
a meager living as a fisher-
to sell them.
man. Agriculture is made
It’s a bit difficult to get a variety of food. Sea-
as a second livelihood.
food is a source of protein that they can access easiest.
Occasionally the dog and the pig became a source of
Eko Budi Wa. Peta : Tipa
protein interlude. Their Carbohydrate source is from the
rice given by the government or from laluga (a kind of
taro) that are embedded in Miangas. Provision of this
free rice is one of concrete steps to protect the loyality
of Miangas people in Indonesia, as well as eliminate the
reason why people in Miangas sail to the Philippines.
Beach and Coral For the visitors who come to Miangas for the
first, it’s better to stay in one of the houses
NOVEMBER-DESEMBER I 2010
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
Settlement
and asked them to make food for us. There
Garden/Farm (Coconut, Laluga, etc) is no set price for the food given to us, but
as an illustration, a pack of rice with egg and
noodles on the islands around Miangas has
price about Rp 25.000.
Communication is still becoming a
problem in Miangas. There is only one spe-
cific area that can receive Telkomsel signal.
In this region that has about 7 meters in
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16. Meliku nusa Meliku Nusa
diameter, only 7 people are lucky to be able of course, luck. cause the water that is produced is also salty. not be exchanged even if occasionally. But,
to call with their own handphone and only For toilets, Miangas is lucky enough to They prefer to carry the buckets with a cart despite already differentiated like that, there
20 SMS sent to recipients luckily. At night, have a source of fresh water from the soil. Al- that would take from toilets. There were also is still well water for drinking, after it’s cooked,
this struggle becomes excited. When one most in every house there is a bathroom stall. public baths. Residents often use it for bath- it’s still taste salty. Mineral water sold in Mian-
of people turn off the phone, others are They have to draw them first to the well to get ing and washing clothes. They bath without gas, a price double the usual.
racing to gain a ticket signal. No referee or water. The location of that water source was removing clothes. Education in Miangas is going pretty
mediator who provides the use of signal located in the middle of the township. Pump Wells for bathing are distinguished smoothly. Building for elementary school, ju-
sequence. All depends on the alertness and machine has not been familiar in Miangas be- from the source of drinking water wells. Must nior high school, and vocational school are
bravely standing. If you want to go to col-
lege, the closest city which can be accessed
is Manado. Most of the people in Miangas
terminate their education only in junior high/
vocational school. Rarely continue to college.
Uniquely, because of its small population, one
force has the same people. A schoolmate and
playmate, yes that’s it.
There is a beach with white sand in
the whole Miangas. If you expect a beauti-
ful snorkel spot, it is difficult, because there
are no colonies of the dominant coral on the
beach sand. But on the beach, we n ceas-
ily get a blue starfish. There are many other
colors, but the dominant is blue. Octopus is
also easy to find on the beach. The water was
really clear, so it’s so easy to find them wan-
dering.
When the water recedes, we can walk
to Cape Wora, a small island that is actually
connected to Miangas. If it was high tide, a
NOVEMBER-DESEMBER I 2010
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
connection is closed. There was no popu-
lation. Local residents usually go there to
hunt canary crabs and harvesting palm. We
can easily find the crabs with their fantastic
clamps wandering. Miangas is really unique.
*Like what was told to Muhammad Iqbal
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17. FIGURE
FERDI ROSMAN F. FERDI ROSMAN F.
Miangas’ telecommunication facility (fastel)
FERDI ROSMAN F.
is actually great. Within fourteen outer islands,
only Miangas and Marore already had this fastel.
Building In the future plan, or what’s been in progress,
what will they do for Miangas’ telecommunica-
Miangas’s tion?
There’s a plan from Serikat Karyawan
Telecommunication (SEKAR) Telkom, fastel in Miangas will build an in-
ternet cafe, including WiFi, cooperating with DIK-
NAS. However, due to the unsupported-Telkom
and also Depkominfo has a plan of the develop-
BY : MUHAMMAD IQBAL
ment of Internet Masuk Desa (Internet goes to vil-
lage), so the Miangas’ fastel is stuck until there.
Lucky, Telkom built Pico Base Transceiver Station
(BTS), so Miangas’ people can use mobile phone
(GSM) and the products of Telkomsel such as Sim-
pati, As, etc.
Pico BTS, which was built in the back yard
of Miangas’ pendopo, has capacities of eight ca-
nals: seven voice canals and one SMS canals with
the coverage of a hundred meter, so the people,
who want to have their phone calls and send text
messages, should go near the location of this an-
tenna.
Have you ever had a deathly experience that still
in touch with Miangas?
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
EXPLORING ABOUT MIANGAS in the In- was really warm when Backpackin’ asked I boarded with a fast ship ‘Valentine’ from
ternet brought Backpackin’ to a great blog him to fill some pictures and text in Miangas Melonguane to Manado in the storm season (July
www.miangas.multiply.com which was cre- edition. Here are some of his thoughts and 2008). The ship arrived in Dermaga Lirung (across
ated by Ferdi Rosman Feizal. His writings are experiences after he has gone to Miangas for Melonguane), before continued to Manado, the
pretty fun and describe Miangas’ activities, seven times. wave was really big that night. I saw a ship which
especially in the development of Miangas’ got back to Lirung because of the wave.
communication’s access. How bad is the situation of Miangas’ tele- Valentine, the ship that we boarded with, deter-
Luckily, we met the employee of Telkom communication instead of other outer is- mined to continue to Manado. Our ship had been
in Pekalongan on Facebook. The response lands in Indonesia? hit by a big wave for approximately three hours.
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18. FERDI ROSMAN F. FERDI ROSMAN F.
“I long for the Miangas that time. The provocation is also
done by several journalists with exposing
became famous, so many functionaries visit
Miangas and hand over the rice.
journey and the the information from those people. From I think there’s no connection between
scenery, espe- the information of secret service Kodam VII/ rice and lazy to work. In fact, I predict that
cially the sea. Wirabuana, these several journalists are very many of Miangas’ people are civil employees,
similar to the journalists who provoke the for example district, village, and tax office
news in Poso etc. staff, marine transportation service (Syah-
bandar and Navigasi), community health
Is the free rice that the government sends to center, elementary school teachers, junior
Miangas’ people make them lazy to work? high school teachers, PLN’s employee, Na-
Free rice is not always sent by the gov- tional Armed Forces of Indonesia (Koramil
ernment. The rice dispatch usually done af- and Babinsa), police, etc. only a few people
ter the storm season or when a functionary become fishermen.
came to Miangas. Because Miangas suddenly
Suddenly, I heard something “BRAK!” What kind of daily culture that amazed
I could only pray that time. So many you?
passengers panicked and some of them The culture that still be guarded like
prayed loudly. It was really dark, so I did not Manami, a tradition of catching fish tradition-
know exactly where it was. The only thing ally, which is held once a year. Second, ev-
I know, almost all of the passengers threw ery guest that came to Miangas always wel-
up. After the wave becalmed, I went to the comed with Upacara Penyambutan Tamu (a
bathroom in the back corner of the ship. I ceremony of welcoming guest) in the quay
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
saw vomit all over the ground. It was really or beach where the ship arrived.
stinky.
There is an issue that Miangas is made into
What kind of things that make you long for Filipina’s territory. Is it right?
Miangas? Why? It’s a lie from the people who don’t like
I long for the journey and the scenery, the government. Usually, that kind of prov-
especially the sea. The journey was really fun ocation shows up when the storm season,
because I can stop by in some small islands. there’s no ship that brave enough to go to
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