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BACKPACKIN’
B A C K P A C K I N ’ M A G A Z I N E .V O L U M E 2 . D E C E M B E R - J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 1




                                                                                                 F U N I R E L A X I LOW B U D G E T


MY JOURNEY

 MIANGAS
 ISLAND                                                                        MY MIANGAS THESIS

HOW TO GET THERE
GO TO
MIANGAS ISLAND
LOCAL CULTURE
MANAMI
FOR THE CONTINUITY
OF SEA PRODUCTS




ACCESORIES : AIR PILLOW I COMMUNITY : SHARE TRAVELLER I BI NEWS : INFO TRIP
                                                                                                                    WWW.BACKPACKINMAGAZINE.COM
CONTENTS                                                                                                                                                                             CHEERS FOR BACKPACKERS!



                                                              BACKPACKIN’        DECEMBER-JANUARY 2011                                                                                           C
                                                                                                                                                                                                           razy fact, Miangas -which count as the
                                                                                                                                                                                                           most northern island of Indonesia if
                                                                                                                                                                                                           we’re looking on Google Maps- is ad-
                                                                                                                                                                                                 mitted as a part of Philippines. Indeed, from
                                                                            YOU’RE
                                                                             HERE
                                                                                          01
                                                                                          02              11     HOW TO GET THERE :
                                                                                                                 GO TO MIANGAS                                                                   Miangas only takes 6 hours for the Philippines,
                                                                                          03             THERE ARE FLIGHTS to Manado from Jakarta, Sura-                                         meanwhile for the Manado need 3 days, but
                                                                                          04             baya, Makassar, Balikpapan, Denpasar, Sorong,
                                                                                          05             Ternate, Jayapura, Singapore, and Kuala Lumpur.                                         Miangas remains as a part of Indonesian island
                                                                                          06                                                                                                     legally. Miangas is still using Rupiah and the
                                                                                          07
                                                                                                                                                                                                 red and white is still flying
                                                                                                          21
                                                                                          08
                                                                                          09                        LALUGA
                                                                                                                    BECOMING INFERIOR                                                            there.
                                                                                          10             SEA PRODUCTS BECOME the priority. One meter
                                                                                           11                                                                                                             However, it is now.
                                                                                                         fish is only for Rp 50.000. Just like other sea shore
                                                                                          12             areas, Miangas has plentiful sea products.
                                                                                                                                                                 BACKPACKIN’ MAGAZINE STAFF      What about 10 years ahead?
                                                                                          13
                                                                                          14                                                                                                     100 years later? Who can
                           3     MY MIANGAS
                                 THESIS
                                                                                          15
                                                                                          16
                                                                                                                                                                         EDITOR IN CHIEF :
                                                                                                                                                                           Ambar Arum
                                                                                                                                                                                                 guarantee      Indonesia   can

                                                                                                          25
                          A YEAR AGO, IN THE middle of 2009, I was given                  17                                                                                                     save Miangas as its part
                          a chance by my campus to show my loyalty to my                  18                       MELIKU NUSA
                                                                                                                   FOR MIANGAS
                          country, as known as K2N, Kuliah Kerja Nyata or                 19                                                                             SENIOR EDITOR :         consistently and the Phil-
                                                                                                         INDONESIA WILL BE very disappointed if Miangas
                          Real Lecture and Work. The 2009 K2N wasn’t a                    20             taken by Philippines, just like when Ambalat was                Muhammad Iqbal          ippines will not bother to
                          common one because we were asked to do some-                                   taken by Malaysia.
                          thing for one remote area in the northest area in               21                                                                                                     tamper the existing rules?
                          Indonesia, Miangas.                                             22                                                                             TRANSLATORS :
                                                                                                                                                                                                          Backpackin’   thinks,
                                                                                          23                                                                            Annisa M.F. Harahap
                                                                                          24                                                                             Anindya Leonita         with enough information, will lure tourists to
                                                                                          25
                                                                                          26                                                                             Dea Maria Crista        tread Miangas. With so many tourists, besides
                                                                                          27                                                                            Ryana Andari Purba       the economy of Miangas residents would be
                                                                                          28
                                                                                          29                                                                             ART AND DESIGN:         lifted and the area is reduced from the risk of
                                                                                          30
                                                                                                                                                                           Galih Permadi         being “stolen” by neighboring countries, will
                                                                                          31
                                                                                          32                                                                               Odie Destrana         also be fishing for passenger ships frequently
                                                                                          33
                                                                                          34                                                                                                     docked to Miangas to smooth the supplying of
                                                                                                                                                                           MARKETING :
                                                                                          35
                                                                                          36              35       COMMUNITY :
                                                                                                                   SHARE TRAVELLER                                       Jeremy Gemarista        basic needs.

                           15




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011




                                    MANAMI, FOR THE                                       37             O NOT MAKE THE COST as an obstacle to reach                         Putri Uloly                  In this Miangas edition, Backpackin’ got
                                    CONTINUITY OF SEA PRODUCTS                            38             your dream to explore the beauty of this nature!
                          IN A YEAR, THERE are six forbidden months for                                                                                                                          a lot of material supply of maps, writings and
                                                                                          39             This principle has become the fad of Share Trav-
                                                                                                                                                                          WEBMASTER :
                          the society to not step in the sand and exploits sea            40             eler community.                                                                         photographs from Ferdinand RZ, Eko, Ghamal,
                          products through all the beach lines.                                                                                                        Kurniawan Aji Saputra
                                                                                          41                                                                                                     Devi, and Tipa. Thanks guys.

                           23       GALLERY
                                    MIANGAS ISLAND
                                                                                          42
                                                                                          43              41       ACCESORIES :
                                                                                                                   AIR PILLOW
                                                                                                                                                                            WEBSITE :
                                                                                                                                                                    www.backpackinmagazine.com
                                                                                          44             SOMETIMES IN THE MIDDLE of the road, we need
                          Capturing Miangas Island
                                                                                          45             something that we have to take inside the carrier                                       EDITOR IN CHIEF
                                                                                          46             bag. Inappropriate packing will make it hard to get         CONTACT/ADVERTISING :
                                                                                          47             the thing and put it back in order.                         redaksiezinebi@yahoo.com
                                                                                          48
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            BACK
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                          PACKIN’                                                                                                                                                                                                         PACKIN’     2
MY JOURNEY
                          MY MIANGAS THESIS                                            MY MIANGAS THESIS




                             MY MIANGAS
                             THESIS
                             BY: EKO BUDI WA




                                                                                                             DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011




                               A YEAR AGO, IN THE middle of 2009, I was given a
                               chance by my campus to show my loyalty to my coun-
                               try, as known as K2N, Kuliah Kerja Nyata or Real Lec-
                               ture and Work. The 2009 K2N wasn’t a common one
                               because we were asked to do something for one re-
                               mote area in the northest area in Indonesia, Miangas.




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MY MIANGAS THESIS                                                                                                                                                                                    MY MIANGAS THESIS




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011




                                 At that time, I was still an active stu-          There were many things that made me        6 CMT, K2N UI 2009, Eko Budi Wa
                                                                                                                              Foto : Ferdi Rosman F, Kelompok
                                                                                                                                                                hours by boat, meanwhile to go to the sur-      waters between Miangas Island (Indonesia)
                          dent in campus. My experience in Miangas          interested in observing Miangas. I am sure                                          rounding islands which are in Indonesia area,   and Mindanao Beach (Phillipines), also about
                          for a month made me make the decision to          one day every people in Indonesia will give                                         like Tahuna and Melonguane, it took for about   the bottom of the sea between Balut Island
                          nail my dream to take Miangas as my the-          their attention to Miangas, just like they did                                      24 hours.                                       (Phillipines) and Sulawesi Sea Beach which
                          sis topic. At first, many people refused it,      on Sipadan-Ligitan islands (the islands that                                               But the access to that closest area      goes for less than 400 miles distance.
                          mostly because of the location which is very      were in conflict with Malaysia –red). Miangas                                       was limited by Indonesian Government be-               The ownership of Miangas Island by
                          far away, but I still tried. But then, January    is the northest island in Indonesia, it is the                                      cause of the worrisome of The Phillipines       Indonesia resulted from 1928 Arbitrage Judi-
                          weather wasn’t support me. Finally I went         island that borders Indonesia and The Phil-                                         ruled Miangas. The conflict between Indo-       cature in Den Haag. Phillipines was still using
                          there in April 2010.                              lipines. To go to The Phillipines only took 2,5                                     nesia and The Phillipines was related to the    the explanation that Las Palmas (Phillipines

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MY MIANGAS THESIS                                                                                                                                                      MY MIANGAS THESIS

    version of Miangas) was in the square posi-     ritory. I was very interested in analising this      a big false! Well, there was food seller on the    it. I bought many foods for my supplies on
    tion based on 1898 Paris Treaty and this was    case.                                                deck, but it was complicated for me because        boat.
    backed by the finding of Pardao (monument)             From Jakarta, I flew to Manado. The           I brought many stuffs.                                     On the third day, I arrived at Miangas.
    of Magelhaens landing on that island in 1512.   standard plane ticket was about Rp 700.000.                 I prefered to stay sit and hold this hun-   When I went down from the boat, it seemed
    That’s why The Phillipines claimed Miangas      If ordered days before the price would cost          ger. One big mistake because of the wrong          like everyone saw me and said, “here’s the
    several times and proposed the island to        Rp 500.000. After I arrived in Manado, I took        assumption. One day I hold my hunger un-           newcomer. What a handsome guy.” I was
    United Nation UNCLOS as part of their ter-      ‘black’ taxi for Rp 120.000 until Bitung. Most-      til the boat moored in Tahuna Island. I went       sure they were rarely visited by strangers, in
                                                    ly the taxi was ‘mobil sedan’ which is usually       straight to search for food. Not many choices      fact for my two-month visit, there were no
                                                    parked in front of the airport. Rp 120.000 was       and the price was very expensive! One wrap         strangers.
                                                    the standard price. Usually the drivers would        of rice contained of egg and noodle priced                 When I went down the boat, I was in-
                                                    asked for Rp 150.000 if he saw the attitude          Rp 25.000. Argh! Wished I brought foods            terrogated a lot by the police. Well I took it as
                                                    of the passenger was like first time coming to       from Manado or Bitung, it would be cheaper.        a normal thing in Miangas because Miangas
                                                    Manado. No need to worry about the crimi-            Everything was expensive, including mineral        was the tip island and often made as terrorist
                                                    nal rate there, it is guaranteed that Manado is      water. But what could I do? I had to bought        track to enter The Phillipines.
                                                    saved for new comer. The people are nice.
                                                           The ride took around 2-3 hours. Along         “They would feel happy if newcomer who sees it would tell it to other
                                                    the journey, the common view was many res-           people so that the story would spread.
                                                    taurants selling many foods like bat’s meat,
                                                    mouse, pig and dog. On the left and right of
                                                    the road there were many coconut trees.
                                                    From Bitung I took Meliku Nusa boat, sat on
                                                    the deck, like other passangers. Actually there
                                                    were rented rooms on this boat but I chose
                                                    deck because I only had to pay Rp 50.000. It
                                                    needed extra fee to enter the room.
                                                           I kept sitting, looking at the sea and
                                                    observing people around me. If I got bored,
                                                    I talked to other passangers. They told me
                                                    about the islands group that we had through.




                                                                                                                                                                                                                NOVEMBER-DESEMBER I 2010
                                                    The islands was beautiful. They would feel
                                                    happy if newcomer who sees it would tell it to
                                                    other people so that the story would spread.
                                                    For me, they were pretty nice to strangers
                                                    like me.
                                                           There was something wrong with the
                                                    boat. No one sold food. I thought the condi-
                                                    tion would be like in economy train in Java
                                                    that is full with food seller. It turned out to be
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MY MIANGAS THESIS                                                                                                                                                       MY MIANGAS THESIS




                                                                             I observed and get involved also with their
                                                                             activities. I was interested to examined the
                                                                             border issue here because first, outside In-
                                                                             donesia and South East Asia, the study of
                                                                             border has been developed, mostly in West
                                                                             Europe and North America’s social sciences
                                                                             and it has become a new field of studies.
                                                                                    Second, I was just a small group of an-
                                                                             thropologist who give special attention in
                                 I knew Miangas from my last visit be-       the study of border in South East Asia. From
                          cause last year I have stayed here for a month.    this study field brought more attention about
                          I went straight to the house of the head of        the consciousness of border as social-culture     ing at fishermen came back from the sea. At        ish their call. That if they win the booty, if they
                          the village. They welcomed me warmly just          changing lab, especially in South East Asia.      that time, there was only few people there. I      lose, well they have to wait again.
                          like they did on other strangers.                  From my writing, I would try to discuss a co-     was asked to help the fishermen to carry the               There was an interesting experience for
                                 For two months, I stayed in the house       heren concept about boundary, border area         fishes to the land. As a result, I got a fish as   me. The ladies of Miangas often flirt me. They
                          of the village head, including eating there.       and frontier area, also to identified research    big as half human hand.                            were very happy if I respond it. All this time,




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011




                          For this friendliness I got, they didn’t want to   questions and future agenda of this study of             There was many surprises in Miangas,        I respond normally to them. Holding my self
                          receive my money. I gave the money to their        border.                                           including the telecommunication. There was         from their flirtness was very hard, because
                          kids instead. For them, I was unite with them             I liked Miangas beach so much. It got      only one spot with only 100 meters of radius       they looked prettier everyday. They tried
                          and they considered me as their own family         the characteristic of very clear water and        of signal area. So, the people from that island    many ways for me to marry them. Thank God
                          member and there was no paying for family.         clean beach, just like beaches I found in Lom-    can only call or text in that area. What was       until I went back, I wasn’t tempted by them.
                                 Every day, my activity was interview-       bok and Bali. It’s not just only the view that    more unique was that only seven people that        Believe it or not =P
                          ing the people about the border concept            was beautiful, the society also has their val-    can use their handphones to call. If there is
                          that is hooked with kinship, economy, and          ues that they still closely hold.                 other people who want to call or send texts,       *as what is told to Mohammad Iqbal
                          the development of the area in the border.                One afternoon, I sat on the beach, look-   they have to wait until that seven people fin-
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HOW TO GET THERE
    GO TO MIANGAS                                                                                            GO TO MIANGAS




             USE BOAT
             USE PLANE
                                                       o                                     FROM MANADO TO BITUNG



                                                      o
                                                                                         1. You Can Take Illegal Taxi Service
                                                                                                (IDR 120 ribu, 2-3 hours). The black
                                                                                         taxi service is available until the last arrival,
                                                                                         around 10 P.M.
                            FROM MALAYSIA/SINGAPURA
                                                                                         2. Angkot Manado-Pal 2
                                                                                               (IDR 3.000, 1 hour) and then contin-



                                                      jo
                                                                                         ues with small bus from Pal 2-Bitung (IDR
                                                                                         2.500, 2 hours). Usually the small bus is
                                                                                         available from 5 A.M. to 9 P.M. Minibus, that
                                                                                         available 24 hours.


                                                                                                 HEADING TO MIANGAS
                                                           FROM PAPUA                    1. You can take Meliku Nusa boat
                                                                                                The main route of the boat is Bitung
                                                                                         (B) – Tahuna Island (T) – Miangas Island
                                                                                         (Mi) – Melongoane Island (Me). It takes 3
                                                                                         days and 2 nights from Bitung to Miangas
                                                                                         in the good weather condition. (Ticket IDR
                                                                                         50.000). The departure schedule is once in
                                                                                         a 2 weeks, at 8 P.M., but in irregular days.
                                                                                         The passenger will call Chief Adry to get
                                                                                         the info about Meliku Nusa’s schedule.
                            FROM BALI                                                           Meliku has total route: B – T – Mi – Me
    FROM SURABAYA/JAKARTA
                                                                                         (2) – Mi – Te (3) – Mi – Me – B. Those are the




                                                                                                                                             DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
                                                                                         main directions, but sometimes the ship
                                                           HEADING TO MANADO             also drop the tourists in at the Siau Island,
                                                                                         Kawio, Tagulandang, Kawaluso, Mamatua,
                                                           THERE ARE FLIGHTS to
                                                                                         Marore, Karatung, etc. It depends which is-
                                                           Manado from Jakarta, Sura-
                                                                                         lands the tourists want to go. Thise route
                                                           baya, Makassar, Balikpapan,
                                                                                         is turned once in a two weeks. The boat
                                                           Denpasar, Sorong, Ternate,
                                                                                         stays 2 days in Melongoane and 3 days in
                                                           Jayapura, Singapore, and
                                                                                         Tahuna.
                                                           Kuala Lumpur.

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GO TO MIANGAS                                                                                                                                                 GO TO MIANGAS


                                                                                BEST TIME TO MIANGAS                                                                     7. Bring the sport equipments like volley-
                                                                                                                                                                         ball or football.
                                                                          1. You have to avoid October until Novem-                                                      8. Don’t go to the pier at nights when the
                                                                          ber if you want to go there, because the                                                       sky is dark.
                                                                          wave is really dangerous.                                                                      9. Bring the Barito (onions, chilli, toma-
                                                                          2. The best moment is from June to Au-                                                         toes), 1 kg each and share it at the place
                                                                          gust, because at this time the Manami will                                                     when you stay (army’s station, navy’s sta-
                                                                          be held.                                                                                       tion, Miangas’s Koramil station, etc.)
                                                                                                                                                                         10. Use Telkomsel as your cellphone pro-
                                                                                     THE ACTIVITIES                                                                      vider. Only the signal from that provider
                                                                                                                                                                         you can use.
                                                                          1. Tracking around Miangas beach for 2
                                                                                                                                                                         11. It is better for you to bring accu and DC
                                                                          hours. You have to ask for permission from
                                                                                                                                                                         lights. You can stun the accu at PLN, ar-
                                                                          Mangkubumi II and also ask the local peo-
                                                                                                                                                                         my’s station, or at the house of headman
                                                                          ple to accompany you.
                                                                                                                                                                         of the village (Apitalau),
                                                                          2. Tracking to Tanjung Wora. It is connect-
                                                                          ed with Miangas when the tide is began to
                          2.You can take Daraki Nusa boat or Ber-                                                        8. Fishing at the pier.
                                                                          ebb.
                          kat Takoda boat.                                                                               9. Around the island by the army’s rubber
                                                                          3. Jumping from the wharf and swimming.
                                 It is not recommended because it                                                        boat (if it still available). Give them money
                                                                          4. Hunting the souvenir at the local peo-
                          takes longer time to go to Miangas from                                                        for the diesel fuel around IDR 200.000 or
                                                                          ple house. There are mat and hat-knitted
                          Bitung, around 7 days, and the schedule is                                                     you also can take the navy’s speed boat.
                                                                          crafts.
                          not in a certain time.
                                                                          5. Going up to the lighthouse and then
                          3. You also can take Kapal Putih boat.                                                                            TIPS
                                                                          continue to the shrine.
                                 The route of this boat is Bitung – Ta-
                                                                          6. Trying Laluga (a kind of taro), Kenari      1. Respect the local culture.
                          huna and Bitung – Melongoane. This ship
                                                                          crab, Baboca (octopus), and Saguer (the        2. During the trip from Bitung to Miangas
                          is available every day. You have to pay IDR
                                                                          fermentation of coconut water).                and when you stay at Miangas, it is difficult
                          150.000 for 2 days trip. The departure from
                                                                          7.     Trying to eat raw fish that have been   to find food and beverages, if any, must
                          Bitung is at 8 – 11 A.M., and the departure
                                                                          formulated.                                    be expensive. You better buy in Bitung or
                          from Melongoane is at 3 – 9 P.M. This boat
                                                                                                                         Manado.




                                                                                                                                                                                                                         DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011




                          won’t go to Miangas, but is is an alternative
                                                                                                                         3. Take enough money. There is no ATM
                          if you missed Meliku Nusa boat and you                                                                                                                         CONTACT
                                                                                                                         4. Sleeping bag is the best choice if you
                          want to run after it.
                                                                                                                         want to sleep comfortably at the ship.          1. Chief Adry
                          4. You can take flight from Manado
                                                                                                                         5. The wet wipes absolutely will help you if    (The chief of Meliku Nusa boat)
                          by Trigana Air to Melongoane.
                                                                                                                         you have to use the restroom, because the       085240568118
                                The schedule is every Monday, Tues-
                                                                                                                         clean water is rarely available at the ship.    2. Santini
                          day, and Thursday (fee IDR 350,000),After
                                                                                                                         6. Be careful with the temptation from Mi-      (Melongoane’s woman)
                          you arrived at Melongoane, you have to
                                                                                                                         angas’s girls or boys.                          081356406083
                          take Meliku Nusa boat to Miangas.

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LOCAL CULTURE
    MANAMI




   MANAMI,
   FOR THE CONTINUITY
   OF SEA PRODUCTS
   BY : MUHAMMAD IQBAL




                         IN A YEAR, THERE are six forbidden months
                         for the society to not step in the sand and
                         exploits sea products through all the beach
                         lines.


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MANAMI                                                                                   MANAMI




                                 Raja Ampat, Indonesia mainstay snor-
                          keling and diving place, has one local wisdom
                          which is called Sasi. On that occasion, some
                          beach-side areas are sterilized from activi-
                          ties. No person is allowed to take sea prod-
                          ucts from that beach part. That tribal law is
                          strongly held by the people. No one dares to
                          pass by that beach until the predicate of Sasi
                          Beach is untied.
                                 Miangas has also that wisdom. Local
                          people usually called it Manami. Firstly, the
                          people Sasi-ing one part of the beach for
                          three to six months. It is usually held in Janu-
                          ary until June. Myth said, if someone step on             Soil Language is the predicate for Mi-
                          the Sasi beach , he will be fined RP 500.000       angas ancestor language. It is said that from




                                                                                                                                                 NOVEMBER-DESEMBER I 2010
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011




                          and get Tukit Tambor, which is to go around        the beginning of Miangas, this language has
                          Miangas while beating a kind of drum and           been used. The words are very different from
                          sing with Bahasa Tanah (Soil Language), Mi-        Makassar or Manado language. Only a small
                          angas original language, which more or less        group of people who is able to masters the
                          mean: I will never do this anymore. Besides        language. In tribal ceremonies, Soil Language
                          that, he is obliged to give food for the whole     is often heard.
                          village in Miangas. Long time ago, there was              Until June, where sea waters decrease
                          a foreigner who surf in the Sasi beach. Well,      and the moon is full moon, then it is the sign
                          of course he got the fine above.                   for Sasi to finish. The next morning, the main


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MANAMI                                                                                                                                                                                              MANAMI

                          event is held. A long knitted young coco-
                          nut leaf is made, special for that day. The
                          knittting is made perfectly to trap fishes
                          on the sea. All Miangas people must be
                          there that day, including old man and
                          women and little children, no excuse.
                          Even tourists are obliged to come. So                                                                                                                                                     “Everyone hold the knitting.
                          all activities have to be stopped and all                                                                                                                                                 Young lads are placed in the
                          people in Miangas Island have to stand                                                                                                                                                    part where the knitted of coco-
                          in a row on the beach line.                                                                                                                                                               nut leaf touch the beach, mean-
                                 Everyone hold the knitting. Young                                                                                                                                                  while children are placed in the
                          lads are placed in the part where the                                                                                                                                                     shallow part of the beach.
                          knitted of coconut leaf touch the beach,
                          meanwhile children are placed in the
                          shallow part of the beach. From 8 in
                          the morning, they have ready on their
                          position. Those young lads hold up the
                          beach as deep as 1.5 meters. They hold                                                                                                                                                    portant guests. Only for welcoming cer-
                          on until 11 a.m., where the water is al-                                                                                                                                                  emonial. Common guests can ask to be
                          ready decrease. The fishes in the shallow                                                                                                                                                 welcomed by Cakalele dance, though.
                          beach have no choice than to go inside                                                                                                                                                      It is said that in this dancing, the Mian-
                          the trap. The guys then drive those fish                                                                                                                                                  gas people are praying for the guests. If
                          to the beach side, no need to work hard                                                                                                                                                   the guests have good heart, they pray
                          to fish.                                                                                                                                                                                  the guests would give positive contribu-
                                 Before the fishes are caught, there                                                                                                                                                tions for Miangas. If the guests have bad
                          is the tribal procession first. Chief tribal                                                                                                                                              intention, they pray the guests would
                          are pleased to catch the first fish. After                                                                                                                                                stay only for a short time.
                          that the officials of the area, then tourists or   for the longest flag waving that was held in                                         was on manami activity was being stepped            Basically, Cakalele dance is a war dance
                          guests are pleased to catch the fishes. Those      the seaside of Miangas. At that time, Manami                                         on.                                           which is to drive away bad people from Mi-




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011




                          fishes are gathered then given to the people       was held too. It means that no one is allowed      6 CMT, K2N UI 2009, Eko Budi Wa
                                                                                                                                Foto : Ferdi Rosman F, Kelompok
                                                                                                                                                                                                                angas. Each dancer holds sword as a sign of
                          of Miangas. Days after that, beach is permit-      to step on the beach. On the other hand, flag                                        CAKALELE                                      readiness for war. Total dancer of Cakalele
                          ted from stepping up and fishes on the sea         waving must be done by stepping up on that                                                 For important guests that come to Mi-   dance are six to twelve people, plus four to
                          are allowed to be catched or fished, until the     beach.                                                                               angas, the society have Cakalele Ceremony     six women as the musicians. Those twelve
                          next Sasi.                                                Then a small meeting was held be-                                             to welcome them. Actually, Cakalele dance     people are the reprentatives of twelve roan-
                                 Unfortunately, Manami as the local wi-      tween the elders of tribal. The big question                                         is not only for important guests. Common      gan in Miangas. Roangan are a kind of family
                          dom of Miangas is starting to dissapear. This      was, to defend tribal law or country law? They                                       guests used to have the same dancing, but     name in Miangas.
                          condition was clearly seen at the MURI (Indo-      agreed to give priority to country law. Finally,                                     since more and more people coming to Mi-
                          nesia Record Museum –red) record breaking          the flag waving was held and the beach that                                          angas, then the dancing was limited for im-   *as what is told to Mohammad Iqbal


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CULINARY
                           LALUGA                                                                                                                                                                                                LALUGA


                          LALUGA                                                                                                                                                                        it. Usually, they get the chilies from Tahuna.
                                                                                                                                                                                                        Their appetite are much alike the Menadon-
                          Becoming Inferior                                                                                                                                                             ese.


                                                                                                                                                                                                        SAGUER
                          BY : MUHAMMAD IQBAL
                                                                                                                                                                                                              A very plentiful Coconut gardens make
                                                                                                                                                                                                        the Miangas people creative to conjure co-
                                                                                                                                                                                                        conut into unique foods. They often keep
                                                                                                                                                                                                        coconut water for a week and the fermen-
                                                                                                                                                                                                        tation makes it a drink like toddy, which has
                                                                                                                                                                                                        become the favorite of the local people. The
                                                                                                                                                                                                        name is Saguer and it is only drunk by men.


                                                                                                                                                                                                        BABOCA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Baboca is the name for octopus in Mi-
                                                                                                                                                                                                        angas (Manadonese called Boboca).The size
                                                                                                                                                                                                        is normal, like any other octopus selled in
                                                                                                                                                                                                        the sea side along Java and Sumatera. Many
                                                                                                                                                                                                        foods are made to from the octopus.
                                                                                                                                                                                                        One more terrific thing is the Ketam Kenari
                                                                                                                                                                                                        Crab. This food is available in every corner in
                                                                                                                                                     “Baboca is the name for octopus                    Miangas. The size is as big as human head.
                                                                                                                                                                                                        It takes a long time to boiled and processed
                                                                                                                                                     in Miangas (Manadonese called
                                                                                                                                                     Boboca).                                           to be a nice food. Be careful when you hunt
                                                                                                                                                                                                        alone, because when fingers nipped by it,
                                                                                                                                                                                                        well......
                          SEA PRODUCTS BECOME the priority. One              very cheap. One fish as long as human hand                              LALUGA




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          NOVEMBER-DESEMBER I 2010
                          meter fish is only for Rp 50.000. Just like        priced for only Rp !0.000, even the one me-                                    But then, there is the time when the
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011




                          other sea shore areas, Miangas has plentiful       ter fish only costs RP 50.000.                                          there is no rice stock left or the boat to Mian-
                          sea products. No days without eating fish.                Indonesian Government and officials,                             gas cannot through the sea due to high wave.
                          Though there are many fishermen search-            who visit, often give rice to the Miangas                               At these times, the true Miangas culinary is
                          ing for fish, it doesn’t affect the sea products   people. At the beginning, it was the policy                             out, the name is Laluga. Paro is grated then
                                                                                                                            Foto : Various Sources




                          to decrease. Miangas is still given the grant      to make the people doesn’t have to travel to                            boiled. The output of it is mixed with fish and
                          of having many fish, even the fishermen will       The Philippines to search for rice, because                             the gravy of the fish. That is Laluga.
                          give a fish as big as half the human hand for      Miangas is very close to The Philippines.                                      Chili is the primary food component
                          anybody who helped him carries the fishes                                                                                  that must be always available for Miangas
                          from the boat to the fish sale. The price is                                                                               people, though they are not the producer of

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GALLERY




Capturing
Miangas Island                          Photo :
                                Ferdi Rosman F
                 & Kelompok 6 CMT, K2N UI 2009


BACKPACKIN’
ON THE SPOT
MELIKU NUSA                                                                             MELIKU NUSA



              MELIKU NUSA FOR MIANGAS
                                                                                   BY : MUHAMMAD IQBAL


                     INDONESIA WILL BE very disappoint-
              ed if Miangas taken by Philippines, just like
              when Ambalat was taken by Malaysia. The
              song with the lyrics “From Sabang to Mer-
              auke, islands are lined...” have been familiar in
              the ears of the people of Indonesia, but not
              with Miangas. If Sabang and Merauke are the
              farthermost points in West and East of Indo-
              nesia, Miangas is the most northern point of
              Indonesia. It lies at the coordinates 05 º 35 ‘N
              - 126 º 35’ east longitude, is listed in the Mian-
              gas Village, Nanusa District, Talaud Regency,
              North Sulawesi Province.
                     Meliku Nusa Ship is a major vessel that
              used to go to Miangas from Bitung (The most
              northern harbor in Sulawesi). The Schedule is
              twice a week but not always accurate. Only
              God and the captain know the ship schedule.
              The entire population of the Nusa Island that
              passed by Meliku have the mobile number of
              helmsman, Chief Adry (085240568118), if that
              number could not be reached, it means that           led to Miangas, named Nusa Daraki and Ber-




                                                                                                                    DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
              Chief Adry is floating in the sea. His time on       kat Takoda. But, both are rarely chosen be-
              the sea is almost the same as on the land.           cause it took a week for up to Miangas due to
                     This ship is quite friendly with new          transit at many islands, whereas with Meliku
              people and presenting two rooms above the            Nusa only took 3 days. In addition, both are
              steering wheel. Each room can be filled by 3         often fickle, sometimes leaving sometimes
              persons. Facilities in each room are TV, WC,         not. The vessels are not as as trong as Meliku
              and AC. Of course there is an additional fee,        Nusa who dare to dock until Miangas, waves
              Rp 150.000 for each room.                            in the North Sulawesi is known challenging
                     Actually, there is another ship that also     enough to do so. In fact, Indonesian warship

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MELIKU NUSA                                                                                                                                                                                             MELIKU NUSA

                                                          have trouble against the Miangas.
                                                          For those who come to Miangas for the first time, first
                                                          thing to do is to visit the village head’s house to convey
                                                          the purpose, whether research, roads, or find a mate.
                                                                 In general, society earns a meager living as a fish-
                                                          erman. Agriculture is made as a second livelihood. Co-
                                                          conut garden decorate almost every corner of Miangas.
                                                          They created a copra which can be sold to Bitung and
                                                          other places.
                                                                 They live peacefully side by side. It’s so peaceful
                                                          until the economic life in Miangas almost can be said is




                                                                                                                        Foto : Ferdi Rosman F, Kelompok 6 CMT, K2N UI 2009,
                                                          close to the death. In the past, when fishermen returned

                           “In general, society earns     from the sea, he would give away their catch to their
                                                          neighbors until the fish was gone. Now, they’re starting
                           a meager living as a fisher-
                                                          to sell them.
                           man. Agriculture is made
                                                                 It’s a bit difficult to get a variety of food. Sea-
                           as a second livelihood.
                                                          food is a source of protein that they can access easiest.
                                                          Occasionally the dog and the pig became a source of




                                                                                                                        Eko Budi Wa. Peta : Tipa
                                                          protein interlude. Their Carbohydrate source is from the
                                                          rice given by the government or from laluga (a kind of
                                                          taro) that are embedded in Miangas. Provision of this
                                                          free rice is one of concrete steps to protect the loyality
                                                          of Miangas people in Indonesia, as well as eliminate the
                                                          reason why people in Miangas sail to the Philippines.




                                                                                                                                                                              Beach and Coral                      For the visitors who come to Miangas for the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   first, it’s better to stay in one of the houses
NOVEMBER-DESEMBER I 2010




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
                                                                                                                                                                              Settlement
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   and asked them to make food for us. There
                                                                                                                                                                              Garden/Farm (Coconut, Laluga, etc)   is no set price for the food given to us, but
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   as an illustration, a pack of rice with egg and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   noodles on the islands around Miangas has
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   price about Rp 25.000.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Communication is still becoming a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   problem in Miangas. There is only one spe-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   cific area that can receive Telkomsel signal.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   In this region that has about 7 meters in

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Meliku nusa                                                                                                                                                           Meliku Nusa

                           diameter, only 7 people are lucky to be able    of course, luck.                                  cause the water that is produced is also salty.   not be exchanged even if occasionally. But,
                           to call with their own handphone and only             For toilets, Miangas is lucky enough to     They prefer to carry the buckets with a cart      despite already differentiated like that, there
                           20 SMS sent to recipients luckily. At night,    have a source of fresh water from the soil. Al-   that would take from toilets. There were also     is still well water for drinking, after it’s cooked,
                           this struggle becomes excited. When one         most in every house there is a bathroom stall.    public baths. Residents often use it for bath-    it’s still taste salty. Mineral water sold in Mian-
                           of people turn off the phone, others are        They have to draw them first to the well to get   ing and washing clothes. They bath without        gas, a price double the usual.
                           racing to gain a ticket signal. No referee or   water. The location of that water source was      removing clothes.                                          Education in Miangas is going pretty
                           mediator who provides the use of signal         located in the middle of the township. Pump             Wells for bathing are distinguished         smoothly. Building for elementary school, ju-
                           sequence. All depends on the alertness and      machine has not been familiar in Miangas be-      from the source of drinking water wells. Must     nior high school, and vocational school are
                                                                                                                                                                               bravely standing. If you want to go to col-
                                                                                                                                                                               lege, the closest city which can be accessed
                                                                                                                                                                               is Manado. Most of the people in Miangas
                                                                                                                                                                               terminate their education only in junior high/
                                                                                                                                                                               vocational school. Rarely continue to college.
                                                                                                                                                                               Uniquely, because of its small population, one
                                                                                                                                                                               force has the same people. A schoolmate and
                                                                                                                                                                               playmate, yes that’s it.
                                                                                                                                                                                        There is a beach with white sand in
                                                                                                                                                                               the whole Miangas. If you expect a beauti-
                                                                                                                                                                               ful snorkel spot, it is difficult, because there
                                                                                                                                                                               are no colonies of the dominant coral on the
                                                                                                                                                                               beach sand. But on the beach, we n ceas-
                                                                                                                                                                               ily get a blue starfish. There are many other
                                                                                                                                                                               colors, but the dominant is blue. Octopus is
                                                                                                                                                                               also easy to find on the beach. The water was
                                                                                                                                                                               really clear, so it’s so easy to find them wan-
                                                                                                                                                                               dering.
                                                                                                                                                                                        When the water recedes, we can walk
                                                                                                                                                                               to Cape Wora, a small island that is actually
                                                                                                                                                                               connected to Miangas. If it was high tide, a
NOVEMBER-DESEMBER I 2010




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011
                                                                                                                                                                               connection is closed. There was no popu-
                                                                                                                                                                               lation. Local residents usually go there to
                                                                                                                                                                               hunt canary crabs and harvesting palm. We
                                                                                                                                                                               can easily find the crabs with their fantastic
                                                                                                                                                                               clamps wandering. Miangas is really unique.


                                                                                                                                                                               *Like what was told to Muhammad Iqbal




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FIGURE
                           FERDI ROSMAN F.                                                                                                                                      FERDI ROSMAN F.


                                                                                                                                Miangas’ telecommunication facility (fastel)


                                                           FERDI ROSMAN F.
                                                                                                                          is actually great. Within fourteen outer islands,
                                                                                                                          only Miangas and Marore already had this fastel.


                                                                    Building                                              In the future plan, or what’s been in progress,
                                                                                                                          what will they do for Miangas’ telecommunica-

                                                                   Miangas’s                                              tion?
                                                                                                                                There’s a plan from Serikat Karyawan

                                                            Telecommunication                                             (SEKAR) Telkom, fastel in Miangas will build an in-
                                                                                                                          ternet cafe, including WiFi, cooperating with DIK-
                                                                                                                          NAS. However, due to the unsupported-Telkom
                                                                                                                          and also Depkominfo has a plan of the develop-
                                                                                           BY : MUHAMMAD IQBAL
                                                                                                                          ment of Internet Masuk Desa (Internet goes to vil-
                                                                                                                          lage), so the Miangas’ fastel is stuck until there.
                                                                                                                          Lucky, Telkom built Pico Base Transceiver Station
                                                                                                                          (BTS), so Miangas’ people can use mobile phone
                                                                                                                          (GSM) and the products of Telkomsel such as Sim-
                                                                                                                          pati, As, etc.
                                                                                                                                 Pico BTS, which was built in the back yard
                                                                                                                          of Miangas’ pendopo, has capacities of eight ca-
                                                                                                                          nals: seven voice canals and one SMS canals with
                                                                                                                          the coverage of a hundred meter, so the people,
                                                                                                                          who want to have their phone calls and send text
                                                                                                                          messages, should go near the location of this an-
                                                                                                                          tenna.


                                                                                                                          Have you ever had a deathly experience that still
                                                                                                                          in touch with Miangas?
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011




                          EXPLORING ABOUT MIANGAS in the In-              was really warm when Backpackin’ asked                I boarded with a fast ship ‘Valentine’ from
                          ternet brought Backpackin’ to a great blog      him to fill some pictures and text in Miangas   Melonguane to Manado in the storm season (July
                          www.miangas.multiply.com which was cre-         edition. Here are some of his thoughts and      2008). The ship arrived in Dermaga Lirung (across
                          ated by Ferdi Rosman Feizal. His writings are   experiences after he has gone to Miangas for    Melonguane), before continued to Manado, the
                          pretty fun and describe Miangas’ activities,    seven times.                                    wave was really big that night. I saw a ship which
                          especially in the development of Miangas’                                                       got back to Lirung because of the wave.
                          communication’s access.                         How bad is the situation of Miangas’ tele-      Valentine, the ship that we boarded with, deter-
                                Luckily, we met the employee of Telkom    communication instead of other outer is-        mined to continue to Manado. Our ship had been
                          in Pekalongan on Facebook. The response         lands in Indonesia?                             hit by a big wave for approximately three hours.

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FERDI ROSMAN F.                                                                                                                                                      FERDI ROSMAN F.


                                                                                                          “I long for the      Miangas that time. The provocation is also
                                                                                                                               done by several journalists with exposing
                                                                                                                                                                                 became famous, so many functionaries visit
                                                                                                                                                                                 Miangas and hand over the rice.
                                                                                                          journey and the      the information from those people. From                  I think there’s no connection between
                                                                                                          scenery, espe-       the information of secret service Kodam VII/      rice and lazy to work. In fact, I predict that
                                                                                                          cially the sea.      Wirabuana, these several journalists are very     many of Miangas’ people are civil employees,
                                                                                                                               similar to the journalists who provoke the        for example district, village, and tax office
                                                                                                                               news in Poso etc.                                 staff, marine transportation service (Syah-
                                                                                                                                                                                 bandar and Navigasi), community health
                                                                                                                               Is the free rice that the government sends to     center, elementary school teachers, junior
                                                                                                                               Miangas’ people make them lazy to work?           high school teachers, PLN’s employee, Na-
                                                                                                                                      Free rice is not always sent by the gov-   tional Armed Forces of Indonesia (Koramil
                                                                                                                               ernment. The rice dispatch usually done af-       and Babinsa), police, etc. only a few people
                                                                                                                               ter the storm season or when a functionary        become fishermen.
                                                                                                                               came to Miangas. Because Miangas suddenly




                          Suddenly, I heard something “BRAK!”               What kind of daily culture that amazed
                                 I could only pray that time. So many       you?
                          passengers panicked and some of them                     The culture that still be guarded like
                          prayed loudly. It was really dark, so I did not   Manami, a tradition of catching fish tradition-
                          know exactly where it was. The only thing         ally, which is held once a year. Second, ev-
                          I know, almost all of the passengers threw        ery guest that came to Miangas always wel-
                          up. After the wave becalmed, I went to the        comed with Upacara Penyambutan Tamu (a
                          bathroom in the back corner of the ship. I        ceremony of welcoming guest) in the quay
DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011




                          saw vomit all over the ground. It was really      or beach where the ship arrived.
                          stinky.
                                                                            There is an issue that Miangas is made into
                          What kind of things that make you long for        Filipina’s territory. Is it right?
                          Miangas? Why?                                            It’s a lie from the people who don’t like
                               I long for the journey and the scenery,      the government. Usually, that kind of prov-
                          especially the sea. The journey was really fun    ocation shows up when the storm season,
                          because I can stop by in some small islands.      there’s no ship that brave enough to go to


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Backpackin magazine vol. 2
Backpackin magazine vol. 2
Backpackin magazine vol. 2
Backpackin magazine vol. 2
Backpackin magazine vol. 2
Backpackin magazine vol. 2
Backpackin magazine vol. 2

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Backpackin magazine vol. 2

  • 1. BACKPACKIN’ B A C K P A C K I N ’ M A G A Z I N E .V O L U M E 2 . D E C E M B E R - J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 1 F U N I R E L A X I LOW B U D G E T MY JOURNEY MIANGAS ISLAND MY MIANGAS THESIS HOW TO GET THERE GO TO MIANGAS ISLAND LOCAL CULTURE MANAMI FOR THE CONTINUITY OF SEA PRODUCTS ACCESORIES : AIR PILLOW I COMMUNITY : SHARE TRAVELLER I BI NEWS : INFO TRIP WWW.BACKPACKINMAGAZINE.COM
  • 2. CONTENTS CHEERS FOR BACKPACKERS! BACKPACKIN’ DECEMBER-JANUARY 2011 C razy fact, Miangas -which count as the most northern island of Indonesia if we’re looking on Google Maps- is ad- mitted as a part of Philippines. Indeed, from YOU’RE HERE 01 02 11 HOW TO GET THERE : GO TO MIANGAS Miangas only takes 6 hours for the Philippines, 03 THERE ARE FLIGHTS to Manado from Jakarta, Sura- meanwhile for the Manado need 3 days, but 04 baya, Makassar, Balikpapan, Denpasar, Sorong, 05 Ternate, Jayapura, Singapore, and Kuala Lumpur. Miangas remains as a part of Indonesian island 06 legally. Miangas is still using Rupiah and the 07 red and white is still flying 21 08 09 LALUGA BECOMING INFERIOR there. 10 SEA PRODUCTS BECOME the priority. One meter 11 However, it is now. fish is only for Rp 50.000. Just like other sea shore 12 areas, Miangas has plentiful sea products. BACKPACKIN’ MAGAZINE STAFF What about 10 years ahead? 13 14 100 years later? Who can 3 MY MIANGAS THESIS 15 16 EDITOR IN CHIEF : Ambar Arum guarantee Indonesia can 25 A YEAR AGO, IN THE middle of 2009, I was given 17 save Miangas as its part a chance by my campus to show my loyalty to my 18 MELIKU NUSA FOR MIANGAS country, as known as K2N, Kuliah Kerja Nyata or 19 SENIOR EDITOR : consistently and the Phil- INDONESIA WILL BE very disappointed if Miangas Real Lecture and Work. The 2009 K2N wasn’t a 20 taken by Philippines, just like when Ambalat was Muhammad Iqbal ippines will not bother to common one because we were asked to do some- taken by Malaysia. thing for one remote area in the northest area in 21 tamper the existing rules? Indonesia, Miangas. 22 TRANSLATORS : Backpackin’ thinks, 23 Annisa M.F. Harahap 24 Anindya Leonita with enough information, will lure tourists to 25 26 Dea Maria Crista tread Miangas. With so many tourists, besides 27 Ryana Andari Purba the economy of Miangas residents would be 28 29 ART AND DESIGN: lifted and the area is reduced from the risk of 30 Galih Permadi being “stolen” by neighboring countries, will 31 32 Odie Destrana also be fishing for passenger ships frequently 33 34 docked to Miangas to smooth the supplying of MARKETING : 35 36 35 COMMUNITY : SHARE TRAVELLER Jeremy Gemarista basic needs. 15 DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 MANAMI, FOR THE 37 O NOT MAKE THE COST as an obstacle to reach Putri Uloly In this Miangas edition, Backpackin’ got CONTINUITY OF SEA PRODUCTS 38 your dream to explore the beauty of this nature! IN A YEAR, THERE are six forbidden months for a lot of material supply of maps, writings and 39 This principle has become the fad of Share Trav- WEBMASTER : the society to not step in the sand and exploits sea 40 eler community. photographs from Ferdinand RZ, Eko, Ghamal, products through all the beach lines. Kurniawan Aji Saputra 41 Devi, and Tipa. Thanks guys. 23 GALLERY MIANGAS ISLAND 42 43 41 ACCESORIES : AIR PILLOW WEBSITE : www.backpackinmagazine.com 44 SOMETIMES IN THE MIDDLE of the road, we need Capturing Miangas Island 45 something that we have to take inside the carrier EDITOR IN CHIEF 46 bag. Inappropriate packing will make it hard to get CONTACT/ADVERTISING : 47 the thing and put it back in order. redaksiezinebi@yahoo.com 48 BACK 1 BACK PACKIN’ PACKIN’ 2
  • 3. MY JOURNEY MY MIANGAS THESIS MY MIANGAS THESIS MY MIANGAS THESIS BY: EKO BUDI WA DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 A YEAR AGO, IN THE middle of 2009, I was given a chance by my campus to show my loyalty to my coun- try, as known as K2N, Kuliah Kerja Nyata or Real Lec- ture and Work. The 2009 K2N wasn’t a common one because we were asked to do something for one re- mote area in the northest area in Indonesia, Miangas. BACK BACK 3 PACKIN’ PACKIN’ 4
  • 4. MY MIANGAS THESIS MY MIANGAS THESIS DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 At that time, I was still an active stu- There were many things that made me 6 CMT, K2N UI 2009, Eko Budi Wa Foto : Ferdi Rosman F, Kelompok hours by boat, meanwhile to go to the sur- waters between Miangas Island (Indonesia) dent in campus. My experience in Miangas interested in observing Miangas. I am sure rounding islands which are in Indonesia area, and Mindanao Beach (Phillipines), also about for a month made me make the decision to one day every people in Indonesia will give like Tahuna and Melonguane, it took for about the bottom of the sea between Balut Island nail my dream to take Miangas as my the- their attention to Miangas, just like they did 24 hours. (Phillipines) and Sulawesi Sea Beach which sis topic. At first, many people refused it, on Sipadan-Ligitan islands (the islands that But the access to that closest area goes for less than 400 miles distance. mostly because of the location which is very were in conflict with Malaysia –red). Miangas was limited by Indonesian Government be- The ownership of Miangas Island by far away, but I still tried. But then, January is the northest island in Indonesia, it is the cause of the worrisome of The Phillipines Indonesia resulted from 1928 Arbitrage Judi- weather wasn’t support me. Finally I went island that borders Indonesia and The Phil- ruled Miangas. The conflict between Indo- cature in Den Haag. Phillipines was still using there in April 2010. lipines. To go to The Phillipines only took 2,5 nesia and The Phillipines was related to the the explanation that Las Palmas (Phillipines BACK BACK 5 PACKIN’ PACKIN’ 6
  • 5. MY MIANGAS THESIS MY MIANGAS THESIS version of Miangas) was in the square posi- ritory. I was very interested in analising this a big false! Well, there was food seller on the it. I bought many foods for my supplies on tion based on 1898 Paris Treaty and this was case. deck, but it was complicated for me because boat. backed by the finding of Pardao (monument) From Jakarta, I flew to Manado. The I brought many stuffs. On the third day, I arrived at Miangas. of Magelhaens landing on that island in 1512. standard plane ticket was about Rp 700.000. I prefered to stay sit and hold this hun- When I went down from the boat, it seemed That’s why The Phillipines claimed Miangas If ordered days before the price would cost ger. One big mistake because of the wrong like everyone saw me and said, “here’s the several times and proposed the island to Rp 500.000. After I arrived in Manado, I took assumption. One day I hold my hunger un- newcomer. What a handsome guy.” I was United Nation UNCLOS as part of their ter- ‘black’ taxi for Rp 120.000 until Bitung. Most- til the boat moored in Tahuna Island. I went sure they were rarely visited by strangers, in ly the taxi was ‘mobil sedan’ which is usually straight to search for food. Not many choices fact for my two-month visit, there were no parked in front of the airport. Rp 120.000 was and the price was very expensive! One wrap strangers. the standard price. Usually the drivers would of rice contained of egg and noodle priced When I went down the boat, I was in- asked for Rp 150.000 if he saw the attitude Rp 25.000. Argh! Wished I brought foods terrogated a lot by the police. Well I took it as of the passenger was like first time coming to from Manado or Bitung, it would be cheaper. a normal thing in Miangas because Miangas Manado. No need to worry about the crimi- Everything was expensive, including mineral was the tip island and often made as terrorist nal rate there, it is guaranteed that Manado is water. But what could I do? I had to bought track to enter The Phillipines. saved for new comer. The people are nice. The ride took around 2-3 hours. Along “They would feel happy if newcomer who sees it would tell it to other the journey, the common view was many res- people so that the story would spread. taurants selling many foods like bat’s meat, mouse, pig and dog. On the left and right of the road there were many coconut trees. From Bitung I took Meliku Nusa boat, sat on the deck, like other passangers. Actually there were rented rooms on this boat but I chose deck because I only had to pay Rp 50.000. It needed extra fee to enter the room. I kept sitting, looking at the sea and observing people around me. If I got bored, I talked to other passangers. They told me about the islands group that we had through. NOVEMBER-DESEMBER I 2010 The islands was beautiful. They would feel happy if newcomer who sees it would tell it to other people so that the story would spread. For me, they were pretty nice to strangers like me. There was something wrong with the boat. No one sold food. I thought the condi- tion would be like in economy train in Java that is full with food seller. It turned out to be BACK BACK 7 PACKIN’ PACKIN’ 8
  • 6. MY MIANGAS THESIS MY MIANGAS THESIS I observed and get involved also with their activities. I was interested to examined the border issue here because first, outside In- donesia and South East Asia, the study of border has been developed, mostly in West Europe and North America’s social sciences and it has become a new field of studies. Second, I was just a small group of an- thropologist who give special attention in I knew Miangas from my last visit be- the study of border in South East Asia. From cause last year I have stayed here for a month. this study field brought more attention about I went straight to the house of the head of the consciousness of border as social-culture ing at fishermen came back from the sea. At ish their call. That if they win the booty, if they the village. They welcomed me warmly just changing lab, especially in South East Asia. that time, there was only few people there. I lose, well they have to wait again. like they did on other strangers. From my writing, I would try to discuss a co- was asked to help the fishermen to carry the There was an interesting experience for For two months, I stayed in the house heren concept about boundary, border area fishes to the land. As a result, I got a fish as me. The ladies of Miangas often flirt me. They of the village head, including eating there. and frontier area, also to identified research big as half human hand. were very happy if I respond it. All this time, DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 For this friendliness I got, they didn’t want to questions and future agenda of this study of There was many surprises in Miangas, I respond normally to them. Holding my self receive my money. I gave the money to their border. including the telecommunication. There was from their flirtness was very hard, because kids instead. For them, I was unite with them I liked Miangas beach so much. It got only one spot with only 100 meters of radius they looked prettier everyday. They tried and they considered me as their own family the characteristic of very clear water and of signal area. So, the people from that island many ways for me to marry them. Thank God member and there was no paying for family. clean beach, just like beaches I found in Lom- can only call or text in that area. What was until I went back, I wasn’t tempted by them. Every day, my activity was interview- bok and Bali. It’s not just only the view that more unique was that only seven people that Believe it or not =P ing the people about the border concept was beautiful, the society also has their val- can use their handphones to call. If there is that is hooked with kinship, economy, and ues that they still closely hold. other people who want to call or send texts, *as what is told to Mohammad Iqbal the development of the area in the border. One afternoon, I sat on the beach, look- they have to wait until that seven people fin- BACK BACK 9 PACKIN’ PACKIN’ 10
  • 7. HOW TO GET THERE GO TO MIANGAS GO TO MIANGAS USE BOAT USE PLANE o FROM MANADO TO BITUNG o 1. You Can Take Illegal Taxi Service (IDR 120 ribu, 2-3 hours). The black taxi service is available until the last arrival, around 10 P.M. FROM MALAYSIA/SINGAPURA 2. Angkot Manado-Pal 2 (IDR 3.000, 1 hour) and then contin- jo ues with small bus from Pal 2-Bitung (IDR 2.500, 2 hours). Usually the small bus is available from 5 A.M. to 9 P.M. Minibus, that available 24 hours. HEADING TO MIANGAS FROM PAPUA 1. You can take Meliku Nusa boat The main route of the boat is Bitung (B) – Tahuna Island (T) – Miangas Island (Mi) – Melongoane Island (Me). It takes 3 days and 2 nights from Bitung to Miangas in the good weather condition. (Ticket IDR 50.000). The departure schedule is once in a 2 weeks, at 8 P.M., but in irregular days. The passenger will call Chief Adry to get the info about Meliku Nusa’s schedule. FROM BALI Meliku has total route: B – T – Mi – Me FROM SURABAYA/JAKARTA (2) – Mi – Te (3) – Mi – Me – B. Those are the DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 main directions, but sometimes the ship HEADING TO MANADO also drop the tourists in at the Siau Island, Kawio, Tagulandang, Kawaluso, Mamatua, THERE ARE FLIGHTS to Marore, Karatung, etc. It depends which is- Manado from Jakarta, Sura- lands the tourists want to go. Thise route baya, Makassar, Balikpapan, is turned once in a two weeks. The boat Denpasar, Sorong, Ternate, stays 2 days in Melongoane and 3 days in Jayapura, Singapore, and Tahuna. Kuala Lumpur. 11 BACK PACKIN’ BACK PACKIN’ 12
  • 8. GO TO MIANGAS GO TO MIANGAS BEST TIME TO MIANGAS 7. Bring the sport equipments like volley- ball or football. 1. You have to avoid October until Novem- 8. Don’t go to the pier at nights when the ber if you want to go there, because the sky is dark. wave is really dangerous. 9. Bring the Barito (onions, chilli, toma- 2. The best moment is from June to Au- toes), 1 kg each and share it at the place gust, because at this time the Manami will when you stay (army’s station, navy’s sta- be held. tion, Miangas’s Koramil station, etc.) 10. Use Telkomsel as your cellphone pro- THE ACTIVITIES vider. Only the signal from that provider you can use. 1. Tracking around Miangas beach for 2 11. It is better for you to bring accu and DC hours. You have to ask for permission from lights. You can stun the accu at PLN, ar- Mangkubumi II and also ask the local peo- my’s station, or at the house of headman ple to accompany you. of the village (Apitalau), 2. Tracking to Tanjung Wora. It is connect- ed with Miangas when the tide is began to 2.You can take Daraki Nusa boat or Ber- 8. Fishing at the pier. ebb. kat Takoda boat. 9. Around the island by the army’s rubber 3. Jumping from the wharf and swimming. It is not recommended because it boat (if it still available). Give them money 4. Hunting the souvenir at the local peo- takes longer time to go to Miangas from for the diesel fuel around IDR 200.000 or ple house. There are mat and hat-knitted Bitung, around 7 days, and the schedule is you also can take the navy’s speed boat. crafts. not in a certain time. 5. Going up to the lighthouse and then 3. You also can take Kapal Putih boat. TIPS continue to the shrine. The route of this boat is Bitung – Ta- 6. Trying Laluga (a kind of taro), Kenari 1. Respect the local culture. huna and Bitung – Melongoane. This ship crab, Baboca (octopus), and Saguer (the 2. During the trip from Bitung to Miangas is available every day. You have to pay IDR fermentation of coconut water). and when you stay at Miangas, it is difficult 150.000 for 2 days trip. The departure from 7. Trying to eat raw fish that have been to find food and beverages, if any, must Bitung is at 8 – 11 A.M., and the departure formulated. be expensive. You better buy in Bitung or from Melongoane is at 3 – 9 P.M. This boat Manado. DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 won’t go to Miangas, but is is an alternative 3. Take enough money. There is no ATM if you missed Meliku Nusa boat and you CONTACT 4. Sleeping bag is the best choice if you want to run after it. want to sleep comfortably at the ship. 1. Chief Adry 4. You can take flight from Manado 5. The wet wipes absolutely will help you if (The chief of Meliku Nusa boat) by Trigana Air to Melongoane. you have to use the restroom, because the 085240568118 The schedule is every Monday, Tues- clean water is rarely available at the ship. 2. Santini day, and Thursday (fee IDR 350,000),After 6. Be careful with the temptation from Mi- (Melongoane’s woman) you arrived at Melongoane, you have to angas’s girls or boys. 081356406083 take Meliku Nusa boat to Miangas. 13 BACK PACKIN’ BACK PACKIN’ 14
  • 9. LOCAL CULTURE MANAMI MANAMI, FOR THE CONTINUITY OF SEA PRODUCTS BY : MUHAMMAD IQBAL IN A YEAR, THERE are six forbidden months for the society to not step in the sand and exploits sea products through all the beach lines. 15 BACK PACKIN’ BACK PACKIN’ 16
  • 10. MANAMI MANAMI Raja Ampat, Indonesia mainstay snor- keling and diving place, has one local wisdom which is called Sasi. On that occasion, some beach-side areas are sterilized from activi- ties. No person is allowed to take sea prod- ucts from that beach part. That tribal law is strongly held by the people. No one dares to pass by that beach until the predicate of Sasi Beach is untied. Miangas has also that wisdom. Local people usually called it Manami. Firstly, the people Sasi-ing one part of the beach for three to six months. It is usually held in Janu- ary until June. Myth said, if someone step on Soil Language is the predicate for Mi- the Sasi beach , he will be fined RP 500.000 angas ancestor language. It is said that from NOVEMBER-DESEMBER I 2010 DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 and get Tukit Tambor, which is to go around the beginning of Miangas, this language has Miangas while beating a kind of drum and been used. The words are very different from sing with Bahasa Tanah (Soil Language), Mi- Makassar or Manado language. Only a small angas original language, which more or less group of people who is able to masters the mean: I will never do this anymore. Besides language. In tribal ceremonies, Soil Language that, he is obliged to give food for the whole is often heard. village in Miangas. Long time ago, there was Until June, where sea waters decrease a foreigner who surf in the Sasi beach. Well, and the moon is full moon, then it is the sign of course he got the fine above. for Sasi to finish. The next morning, the main 17 BACK PACKIN’ BACK PACKIN’ 18
  • 11. MANAMI MANAMI event is held. A long knitted young coco- nut leaf is made, special for that day. The knittting is made perfectly to trap fishes on the sea. All Miangas people must be there that day, including old man and women and little children, no excuse. Even tourists are obliged to come. So “Everyone hold the knitting. all activities have to be stopped and all Young lads are placed in the people in Miangas Island have to stand part where the knitted of coco- in a row on the beach line. nut leaf touch the beach, mean- Everyone hold the knitting. Young while children are placed in the lads are placed in the part where the shallow part of the beach. knitted of coconut leaf touch the beach, meanwhile children are placed in the shallow part of the beach. From 8 in the morning, they have ready on their position. Those young lads hold up the beach as deep as 1.5 meters. They hold portant guests. Only for welcoming cer- on until 11 a.m., where the water is al- emonial. Common guests can ask to be ready decrease. The fishes in the shallow welcomed by Cakalele dance, though. beach have no choice than to go inside It is said that in this dancing, the Mian- the trap. The guys then drive those fish gas people are praying for the guests. If to the beach side, no need to work hard the guests have good heart, they pray to fish. the guests would give positive contribu- Before the fishes are caught, there tions for Miangas. If the guests have bad is the tribal procession first. Chief tribal intention, they pray the guests would are pleased to catch the first fish. After stay only for a short time. that the officials of the area, then tourists or for the longest flag waving that was held in was on manami activity was being stepped Basically, Cakalele dance is a war dance guests are pleased to catch the fishes. Those the seaside of Miangas. At that time, Manami on. which is to drive away bad people from Mi- DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 fishes are gathered then given to the people was held too. It means that no one is allowed 6 CMT, K2N UI 2009, Eko Budi Wa Foto : Ferdi Rosman F, Kelompok angas. Each dancer holds sword as a sign of of Miangas. Days after that, beach is permit- to step on the beach. On the other hand, flag CAKALELE readiness for war. Total dancer of Cakalele ted from stepping up and fishes on the sea waving must be done by stepping up on that For important guests that come to Mi- dance are six to twelve people, plus four to are allowed to be catched or fished, until the beach. angas, the society have Cakalele Ceremony six women as the musicians. Those twelve next Sasi. Then a small meeting was held be- to welcome them. Actually, Cakalele dance people are the reprentatives of twelve roan- Unfortunately, Manami as the local wi- tween the elders of tribal. The big question is not only for important guests. Common gan in Miangas. Roangan are a kind of family dom of Miangas is starting to dissapear. This was, to defend tribal law or country law? They guests used to have the same dancing, but name in Miangas. condition was clearly seen at the MURI (Indo- agreed to give priority to country law. Finally, since more and more people coming to Mi- nesia Record Museum –red) record breaking the flag waving was held and the beach that angas, then the dancing was limited for im- *as what is told to Mohammad Iqbal 19 BACK PACKIN’ BACK PACKIN’ 20
  • 12. CULINARY LALUGA LALUGA LALUGA it. Usually, they get the chilies from Tahuna. Their appetite are much alike the Menadon- Becoming Inferior ese. SAGUER BY : MUHAMMAD IQBAL A very plentiful Coconut gardens make the Miangas people creative to conjure co- conut into unique foods. They often keep coconut water for a week and the fermen- tation makes it a drink like toddy, which has become the favorite of the local people. The name is Saguer and it is only drunk by men. BABOCA Baboca is the name for octopus in Mi- angas (Manadonese called Boboca).The size is normal, like any other octopus selled in the sea side along Java and Sumatera. Many foods are made to from the octopus. One more terrific thing is the Ketam Kenari Crab. This food is available in every corner in “Baboca is the name for octopus Miangas. The size is as big as human head. It takes a long time to boiled and processed in Miangas (Manadonese called Boboca). to be a nice food. Be careful when you hunt alone, because when fingers nipped by it, well...... SEA PRODUCTS BECOME the priority. One very cheap. One fish as long as human hand LALUGA NOVEMBER-DESEMBER I 2010 meter fish is only for Rp 50.000. Just like priced for only Rp !0.000, even the one me- But then, there is the time when the DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 other sea shore areas, Miangas has plentiful ter fish only costs RP 50.000. there is no rice stock left or the boat to Mian- sea products. No days without eating fish. Indonesian Government and officials, gas cannot through the sea due to high wave. Though there are many fishermen search- who visit, often give rice to the Miangas At these times, the true Miangas culinary is ing for fish, it doesn’t affect the sea products people. At the beginning, it was the policy out, the name is Laluga. Paro is grated then Foto : Various Sources to decrease. Miangas is still given the grant to make the people doesn’t have to travel to boiled. The output of it is mixed with fish and of having many fish, even the fishermen will The Philippines to search for rice, because the gravy of the fish. That is Laluga. give a fish as big as half the human hand for Miangas is very close to The Philippines. Chili is the primary food component anybody who helped him carries the fishes that must be always available for Miangas from the boat to the fish sale. The price is people, though they are not the producer of 21 BACK PACKIN’ BACK PACKIN’ 22
  • 13. GALLERY Capturing Miangas Island Photo : Ferdi Rosman F & Kelompok 6 CMT, K2N UI 2009 BACKPACKIN’
  • 14. ON THE SPOT MELIKU NUSA MELIKU NUSA MELIKU NUSA FOR MIANGAS BY : MUHAMMAD IQBAL INDONESIA WILL BE very disappoint- ed if Miangas taken by Philippines, just like when Ambalat was taken by Malaysia. The song with the lyrics “From Sabang to Mer- auke, islands are lined...” have been familiar in the ears of the people of Indonesia, but not with Miangas. If Sabang and Merauke are the farthermost points in West and East of Indo- nesia, Miangas is the most northern point of Indonesia. It lies at the coordinates 05 º 35 ‘N - 126 º 35’ east longitude, is listed in the Mian- gas Village, Nanusa District, Talaud Regency, North Sulawesi Province. Meliku Nusa Ship is a major vessel that used to go to Miangas from Bitung (The most northern harbor in Sulawesi). The Schedule is twice a week but not always accurate. Only God and the captain know the ship schedule. The entire population of the Nusa Island that passed by Meliku have the mobile number of helmsman, Chief Adry (085240568118), if that number could not be reached, it means that led to Miangas, named Nusa Daraki and Ber- DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 Chief Adry is floating in the sea. His time on kat Takoda. But, both are rarely chosen be- the sea is almost the same as on the land. cause it took a week for up to Miangas due to This ship is quite friendly with new transit at many islands, whereas with Meliku people and presenting two rooms above the Nusa only took 3 days. In addition, both are steering wheel. Each room can be filled by 3 often fickle, sometimes leaving sometimes persons. Facilities in each room are TV, WC, not. The vessels are not as as trong as Meliku and AC. Of course there is an additional fee, Nusa who dare to dock until Miangas, waves Rp 150.000 for each room. in the North Sulawesi is known challenging Actually, there is another ship that also enough to do so. In fact, Indonesian warship BACK PACKIN’ 26
  • 15. MELIKU NUSA MELIKU NUSA have trouble against the Miangas. For those who come to Miangas for the first time, first thing to do is to visit the village head’s house to convey the purpose, whether research, roads, or find a mate. In general, society earns a meager living as a fish- erman. Agriculture is made as a second livelihood. Co- conut garden decorate almost every corner of Miangas. They created a copra which can be sold to Bitung and other places. They live peacefully side by side. It’s so peaceful until the economic life in Miangas almost can be said is Foto : Ferdi Rosman F, Kelompok 6 CMT, K2N UI 2009, close to the death. In the past, when fishermen returned “In general, society earns from the sea, he would give away their catch to their neighbors until the fish was gone. Now, they’re starting a meager living as a fisher- to sell them. man. Agriculture is made It’s a bit difficult to get a variety of food. Sea- as a second livelihood. food is a source of protein that they can access easiest. Occasionally the dog and the pig became a source of Eko Budi Wa. Peta : Tipa protein interlude. Their Carbohydrate source is from the rice given by the government or from laluga (a kind of taro) that are embedded in Miangas. Provision of this free rice is one of concrete steps to protect the loyality of Miangas people in Indonesia, as well as eliminate the reason why people in Miangas sail to the Philippines. Beach and Coral For the visitors who come to Miangas for the first, it’s better to stay in one of the houses NOVEMBER-DESEMBER I 2010 DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 Settlement and asked them to make food for us. There Garden/Farm (Coconut, Laluga, etc) is no set price for the food given to us, but as an illustration, a pack of rice with egg and noodles on the islands around Miangas has price about Rp 25.000. Communication is still becoming a problem in Miangas. There is only one spe- cific area that can receive Telkomsel signal. In this region that has about 7 meters in 27 BACK PACKIN’ BACK PACKIN’ 28
  • 16. Meliku nusa Meliku Nusa diameter, only 7 people are lucky to be able of course, luck. cause the water that is produced is also salty. not be exchanged even if occasionally. But, to call with their own handphone and only For toilets, Miangas is lucky enough to They prefer to carry the buckets with a cart despite already differentiated like that, there 20 SMS sent to recipients luckily. At night, have a source of fresh water from the soil. Al- that would take from toilets. There were also is still well water for drinking, after it’s cooked, this struggle becomes excited. When one most in every house there is a bathroom stall. public baths. Residents often use it for bath- it’s still taste salty. Mineral water sold in Mian- of people turn off the phone, others are They have to draw them first to the well to get ing and washing clothes. They bath without gas, a price double the usual. racing to gain a ticket signal. No referee or water. The location of that water source was removing clothes. Education in Miangas is going pretty mediator who provides the use of signal located in the middle of the township. Pump Wells for bathing are distinguished smoothly. Building for elementary school, ju- sequence. All depends on the alertness and machine has not been familiar in Miangas be- from the source of drinking water wells. Must nior high school, and vocational school are bravely standing. If you want to go to col- lege, the closest city which can be accessed is Manado. Most of the people in Miangas terminate their education only in junior high/ vocational school. Rarely continue to college. Uniquely, because of its small population, one force has the same people. A schoolmate and playmate, yes that’s it. There is a beach with white sand in the whole Miangas. If you expect a beauti- ful snorkel spot, it is difficult, because there are no colonies of the dominant coral on the beach sand. But on the beach, we n ceas- ily get a blue starfish. There are many other colors, but the dominant is blue. Octopus is also easy to find on the beach. The water was really clear, so it’s so easy to find them wan- dering. When the water recedes, we can walk to Cape Wora, a small island that is actually connected to Miangas. If it was high tide, a NOVEMBER-DESEMBER I 2010 DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 connection is closed. There was no popu- lation. Local residents usually go there to hunt canary crabs and harvesting palm. We can easily find the crabs with their fantastic clamps wandering. Miangas is really unique. *Like what was told to Muhammad Iqbal 29 BACK PACKIN’ BACK PACKIN’ 30
  • 17. FIGURE FERDI ROSMAN F. FERDI ROSMAN F. Miangas’ telecommunication facility (fastel) FERDI ROSMAN F. is actually great. Within fourteen outer islands, only Miangas and Marore already had this fastel. Building In the future plan, or what’s been in progress, what will they do for Miangas’ telecommunica- Miangas’s tion? There’s a plan from Serikat Karyawan Telecommunication (SEKAR) Telkom, fastel in Miangas will build an in- ternet cafe, including WiFi, cooperating with DIK- NAS. However, due to the unsupported-Telkom and also Depkominfo has a plan of the develop- BY : MUHAMMAD IQBAL ment of Internet Masuk Desa (Internet goes to vil- lage), so the Miangas’ fastel is stuck until there. Lucky, Telkom built Pico Base Transceiver Station (BTS), so Miangas’ people can use mobile phone (GSM) and the products of Telkomsel such as Sim- pati, As, etc. Pico BTS, which was built in the back yard of Miangas’ pendopo, has capacities of eight ca- nals: seven voice canals and one SMS canals with the coverage of a hundred meter, so the people, who want to have their phone calls and send text messages, should go near the location of this an- tenna. Have you ever had a deathly experience that still in touch with Miangas? DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 EXPLORING ABOUT MIANGAS in the In- was really warm when Backpackin’ asked I boarded with a fast ship ‘Valentine’ from ternet brought Backpackin’ to a great blog him to fill some pictures and text in Miangas Melonguane to Manado in the storm season (July www.miangas.multiply.com which was cre- edition. Here are some of his thoughts and 2008). The ship arrived in Dermaga Lirung (across ated by Ferdi Rosman Feizal. His writings are experiences after he has gone to Miangas for Melonguane), before continued to Manado, the pretty fun and describe Miangas’ activities, seven times. wave was really big that night. I saw a ship which especially in the development of Miangas’ got back to Lirung because of the wave. communication’s access. How bad is the situation of Miangas’ tele- Valentine, the ship that we boarded with, deter- Luckily, we met the employee of Telkom communication instead of other outer is- mined to continue to Manado. Our ship had been in Pekalongan on Facebook. The response lands in Indonesia? hit by a big wave for approximately three hours. 31 BACK PACKIN’ BACK PACKIN’ 32
  • 18. FERDI ROSMAN F. FERDI ROSMAN F. “I long for the Miangas that time. The provocation is also done by several journalists with exposing became famous, so many functionaries visit Miangas and hand over the rice. journey and the the information from those people. From I think there’s no connection between scenery, espe- the information of secret service Kodam VII/ rice and lazy to work. In fact, I predict that cially the sea. Wirabuana, these several journalists are very many of Miangas’ people are civil employees, similar to the journalists who provoke the for example district, village, and tax office news in Poso etc. staff, marine transportation service (Syah- bandar and Navigasi), community health Is the free rice that the government sends to center, elementary school teachers, junior Miangas’ people make them lazy to work? high school teachers, PLN’s employee, Na- Free rice is not always sent by the gov- tional Armed Forces of Indonesia (Koramil ernment. The rice dispatch usually done af- and Babinsa), police, etc. only a few people ter the storm season or when a functionary become fishermen. came to Miangas. Because Miangas suddenly Suddenly, I heard something “BRAK!” What kind of daily culture that amazed I could only pray that time. So many you? passengers panicked and some of them The culture that still be guarded like prayed loudly. It was really dark, so I did not Manami, a tradition of catching fish tradition- know exactly where it was. The only thing ally, which is held once a year. Second, ev- I know, almost all of the passengers threw ery guest that came to Miangas always wel- up. After the wave becalmed, I went to the comed with Upacara Penyambutan Tamu (a bathroom in the back corner of the ship. I ceremony of welcoming guest) in the quay DECEMBER-JANUARY I 2011 saw vomit all over the ground. It was really or beach where the ship arrived. stinky. There is an issue that Miangas is made into What kind of things that make you long for Filipina’s territory. Is it right? Miangas? Why? It’s a lie from the people who don’t like I long for the journey and the scenery, the government. Usually, that kind of prov- especially the sea. The journey was really fun ocation shows up when the storm season, because I can stop by in some small islands. there’s no ship that brave enough to go to 33 BACK PACKIN’ BACK PACKIN’ 34