The document provides details about Louis XIII cognac, including: 1) It takes over 100 years to produce, involving careful selection of grapes from Grande Champagne and multiple generations of cellar masters blending eaux-de-vie in oak casks. 2) One family has guided the brand for generations, maintaining the same taste since 1874 while expanding globally. 3) Louis XIII is meant to be savored slowly and seen as a luxury experience rather than a typical drink, given its long aging process and high price.

1. Special Feature
78 AMBROSIA • October 2012

2. To the king of spirits – Louis XIII
Good cognac is like a woman. Do not assault it. Coddle and
warm it in your hands before you sip it. - Winston Churchill
All the romance and story that enriches the cognac drinking experience has evolved
over the years. The spirit has moved beyond being just the drink of the affluent to
the drink of people who appreciate finer things in life. Though it will always remain
a drink of the class, cognac manufacturers are shifting their focus towards a new
generation of wealthy drinkers who like to flaunt their status with expensive watches,
cars or other luxurious indulgences like owning a bottle of Louis XIII.
E
very luxury brand thrives on
scarcity. The rarer it is the higher
price it commands. However, in
case of Louis XIII it is something more
than just the demand and supply equation.
It is the generations of cellar masters and
a group of people involved in the process
of producing one bottle of Louis XIII.
And above all, it’s the liquid inside that
beautiful decanter. The cognac whose
making spans 100 years speaks a lot more
than just extravagance. As Christophe
Bourrie, Regional Director, Louis XIII
states, "The journey from Cognac vineyard
that is defined as Grande Champagne to the
bottle presents a fascinating story of four
generations of cellar masters who have
worked hard for many years of their lives
to present this magnifique cognac called
Louis XIII.”
Louis XIII’s history goes back to
the earliest days of the cognac craft. The
quality that it represents exceeds all rivals,
and its reputation reflects that status. There The soil formation here has that special which the grapes are grown find expression
are lists of things which go in the making perfection that makes it the birthplace of in the richness and complexity of the aged
of Louis XIII. the only grapes that will ever go to make and blended marvel in the glass.
Louis XIII. Across 100 years of ageing, the eau-de-
The Liquid Gold The Ugni Blanc grapes that are born vie carries the signature of its terroir and
The grapes are carefully chosen from of the exclusive conditions imprint the the fruit from which it was born – even the
the exclusive and strictly delimited portion signature of this special land on every stage delicate scent of the fruit’s fragile flower.
of the cognac vineyard called Grande in the century-long evolution of Louis XIII At the starting point of distillation,
Champagne in Cognac region, France; – first in the aromatic maturity that defines there is a light acid wine, fermented across
Louis XIII travels a long way. The soil the moment of harvest, continuing with the a leisurely one-to-two-week period, low in
in the vineyard is light grey in colour– a fermentation of the low-alcohol wine that alcohol because that is always the preferred
gift of deep, soft chalk bequeathed by the is the voice of the distilled eau-de-vie. In basis for a superior cognac. All pips are
geological storm of the tertiary period. so many ways, the very nature of the soil in removed from the grapes at the point of
79 AMBROSIA • October 2012

3. pressing, to avoid any unwanted tannins
in the future eau-de-vie. It takes 10 litres
of this wine, at 7-10% alcohol, to produce
one litre of the 70%-alcohol eau-de-vie
that is the next objective.
Distillation must commence quickly,
because the qualities in the wine are
fragile – as soon as possible after harvest
in November, and never later than the end
of March. The eau-de-vie that go to make
Louis XIII are always distilled with the
‘lees’, a mixture of grape yeast and minute
particles of the fruit. The goal here is the
maturation of ‘rancio’, that complex nutty
fragrance that is a prized quality in very
old cognacs. It gives the eau-de-vie more
body, more power, and a taste that lingers
longer. But this needs a small still, not
more than 25 hectoliters in capacity. And
great care must be taken to ensure not to
burn the lees.
The cognac pot still is a work of copper
craftsmanship, hammered to perfection
on the outside and polished to a mirror
finish on the inside. The goal is a subtle
contact between liquid and copper that
naturally selects the finest characteristics
of the wine. Fatty acids and sulphurous
components are set aside. Aromas are
encouraged to develop. The smaller the
still, the more regular the distribution of
heat, and so the better the contact between
the still and the wine it holds. The still
is dome-shaped at the base, extending
upwards to an onion-shaped bulb and
thence to the swan neck through which From the heart of the second are never broken. What makes the tierçon
the heated vapours rise, passing into the distillation, at 70 degrees alcohol is the different is its exceptionally large size and
cooling coils of the condenser where the fiery young spirit that may in one hundred the reduced thickness of the staves that
vapours return to alcoholic liquid. years become Louis XIII. The cellar master form its sides. Ageing entails a continuous
The distillation process requires must now seek within the fire of the alcohol exchange between spirit and outside air,
continuous expert supervision. Heat is for those indications of excellence that only and the tierçon has the most perfect form
minutely adjusted to perfect the rate of an expert nose can detect at this stage. And for this purpose.
flow, and the specific gravity of the out despite the best efforts of the distiller, the 50 years of age marks the transition of
flowing distillate is watched at every decision will most likely be negative. Of the spirit to the tierçons that are reserved
moment. What flows at the start of some 1,000 samples that are submitted for exclusively for Louis XIII. Their unique
distillation is lacking in perfection, and the the cellar master’s approval, barely a dozen size and form will nurse the eau-de-vie to
same is true of the flow at the close. These are selected to become Louis XIII. its ultimate state of perfection. The tierçons
‘heads’ and ‘tails’ are passed back to join The Louis XIII tierçon is a cask rest in the mellow eternity of the storehouses
the next batch of wine for distillation. Only originally designed for the carriage of set around the courtyard of Le Grollet – the
the best – the ‘middle cut’ or ‘brouillis’ – cognac on horse-drawn carts, three casks at country house that is the spiritual home
is passed forward to the next stage: eight a time, hence the name. The House of Rémy of Louis XIII. The eau-de-vie breathes,
hours of filtration and then, as is the rule Martin traditionally uses casks made of absorbing oxygen and evaporating through
for all cognacs, a second distillation. Limousin oak, which has the perfect tannins the porous staves, so losing what they call
And like the first distillation, the less- and porosity for the ageing of an eau-de- the "angels’ share". Walls are blackened by
than-perfect heads and tails will again be vie. The wood comes from 150-year-old the mould that feeds on the slowly seeping
passed back to repeat the previous stage trees, always felled in winter, the wood vapour from the casks.
once more. split and never sawn, so the natural fibres Every year from the date of birth, the
80 AMBROSIA • October 2012

4. cellar master inspects and samples each far back before his time, it was Dominique business acumen and his personal energy
cask, judging evolution with an expert nose Hériard Dubreuil, the current chairman’s that raised Louis XIII to the supreme
and selecting certain casks to be blended grandfather who really set the scene for position it enjoys today. To produce the
with certain others. At 50 years of age, the reputation that Louis XIII enjoys today. best cognac, you must be ready to invest
300 eau-de-vie have already been married His successor as chairman was her father in a substantial stock of ageing eau-de-
in this fashion – and one cellar master has André Hériard Dubreuil. It would be hard vie. And if the timescale is one hundred
already passed the legacy to the next. At 75 to imagine two men with more different years, then you must be prepared to invest
years of age, the number of eau-de-vie that personalities. But they did, all the same, in a very large stock indeed. This principle
are blended in each cask approaches 700 – share the same fundamental belief, that was understood by the earliest founders of
and the passing years have seen the duty the only cognac worth producing was the the House, and eagerly embraced by her
handed down to yet another cellar master. best cognac. And the best of the best was of grandfather.
It will be another 25 years, and another course Louis XIII.
cellar master, before the legend touches André Hériard Dubreuil was in so The Experience
perfection. many ways the perfect successor for
After four cellar masters and 1200 that moment in time, when the global
blends, it is finally ready to see the light of market was first taking shape. He saw and
the day. understood this wave of the future, and he
knew that it would favour spirits of the
The Family highest quality. Price would be no obstacle
The destiny of Louis XIII is guided if the quality was exceptional, and Louis
by one cognac family dynasty that has XIII was the ultimate expression of that
nurtured the legend since the early years of philosophy. Others before him had carried
the 20th century. the reputation of Louis XIII around the
Though the history of Louis XIII reaches world, but it was her father’s intuition, his
"Louis XIII is made for special
moments, when you can give it the time
it deserves. This is not something that you
drink in any glass, with any person, at any
time. Cognacs could be served with dessert
but not Louis XIII, it is not appropriate. It
needs no accompaniment, and you must
give it time. There’s one hundred years
to discover in that glass, and you have to
take the time to enjoy it," states Christophe
Bourrie, Regional Director, Louis XIII.
How gratifying it is that an 18th-century
enterprise should have created something
for the pleasure of people one hundred
years in the future. And how exciting to
imagine that same gift to the future in the
ever-accelerating world to come.
The best part about Louis XIII is that
the taste has not changed since 1874. The
first bottle was produced back then. The
first bottle to reach Mumbai was in 1884 for
the Maharaja. In China it reached in 1880.
“We have had relations with the east since
centuries which is helping us to be where
we are, right now. It's aged for 100 years,
The previous chairman André Hériard Dubreuil with his wife, his sons François and Marc Hériard
then its bottled and finished. But when you
Dubreuil, and his daughter, Dominique Hériard Dubreuil, the current chairman. drink a bottle today, this bottle has been
81 AMBROSIA • October 2012

5. Christophe Bourrie, Regional Director Vincent Cleme, Brand Ambassador, India Sub-continent
stored and aged for the last century since 18 different countries of the world. “This
1912. Consumers expect this beautiful taste is a proof of our commitment towards New markets and demand:-
in every bottle. To make it happen over the making this brand having the same kind of All the new markets work differently.
years it’s a real challenge,” added Bourrie. awareness as any other brand,” explained India, Middle East, Philippines, Indonesia,
Bourrie. Vietnam are the economies that are
Ambassadors of Louis XIII “We have a network of around 40 contributing the most to the sales of Louis
Each and every owner of Louis XIII is luxury hotels and fine dining restaurants in XIII. They are developing economies with
an ambassador of the brand. The distribution India. It is available in the Leela Group, disposable income. Louis XIII management
and consumption of Louis XIII is well Taj, Oberoi and other top fine dining always prefers new markets. And India is a
balanced between the western and the places. Louis XIII is not only one of the special market for the group so it’s always
eastern markets. East Asia in Asia Pacific is finest products in the world but also a fine the priority. It’s a dynamic market that’s
the biggest market. As a global brand Louis piece of craftsmanship. It is more than a changing really fast.
XIII is available in almost every global cognac; it’s a moment,” said Cleme. As Bourrie rightly puts it, the perception
market and in the best locations. However, towards Louis XIII or any other expensive
the brand faces difficulties in managing Perception about Cognac alcohol brand has changed. Now people
allocation at times. “It is highly unlikely “In India people strongly believe that buy a bottle of Louis XIII to drink it and
that you travel to a country, for example, cognac is a winter drink. And this is the not to showcase in their bar. One needs to
South Africa and not find Louis XIII in only country in the world where people appreciate the liquid inside the bottle which
a luxury hotel. The brand is available in think this way,” said Bourrie. In countries has rested for a century and now vying for
all developed countries and most of the like Vietnam, Indonesia, China, people go your attention. Just like fine wines.
developing/new emerging countries in the to a night club and order a bottle of cognac, Top brands in the world do not speak
world, Brazil being the newer addition some mixtures and make a cocktail. So, of the product but the story behind it. The
to this list. We are also focusing more on cognac could be an everyday drink too. metallic flask which was found in a battle
countries which have great potential and During summers, in Cognac region in field in France once, shaped the future
India is one of them”, said Bourrie. France, people make refreshing drinks out look of the bottle. So, next time you come
India remains one of the most important of it by adding a slice of lemon, spritz and across a bottle of Louis XIII, spend some
markets for Louis XIII. Vincent Cleme, a vsop bottle. “However, that’s not how time appreciating the craftsmanship and
Brand Ambassador, India Sub-continent you should enjoy Louis XIII. This brand legendary story behind the brand that goes
has been working in the country since last of cognac should only be drunk when you back a century.
few years. He is amongst the 18 dedicated have the right people. It could create the - Rojita Tiwari
brand ambassadors that Louis XIII has in best moment for you,” added Cleme.
82 AMBROSIA • October 2012