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MORE+ Vision n°6 June 2012 Vision byevery 2 months: 1 consumer trend briefing • 4 retail real estate player’s viewpoints • online follow-up Staying top of the pop-ups © Marks & Spencer Shwopping Joanna Lumley OBE and Marc Bolland (M&S CEO) at the launch of shwopping. Using 5 minutes worth of UK clothing waste - 9513 pieces - M&S transformed a London street to show how it plans to give old clothes a future through its new fashion initiative.For what looked like a fad, pop-up concepts have certainly proventhemselves. While a pop-up store may be here today, gone tomorrow, theidea is certainly not and from first being identified back in late 2003, pop-up Insideshops have gone from a perfect example of temporary installation to a fixture • The trend briefingon every marketing-strategy-to-do list. The pop-up mantra now includes • Interviews:pop-up stores, pop-up units and pop-up retail, through to the first pop-up Marks & Spencermall and the term has widened to include a wide variety of temporary brand AMF Fastighetermanifestations that add an element of surprise, urgency, and must- My Pop Up Storehave/must-see to shopping, dining, entertainment, lodging and exhibiting. Cushman & WakefieldRetailers and brands have incorporated technological innovation and haveused pop-ups to reach out to a wider audience with socially responsiblemessages. In fact pop-ups have even been used to help regeneratecommunities hit by natural or economic problems, providing as they do quickand flexible ways of injecting new stores and services to a location.So wide are the approaches available that we have restricted ouranalysis specifically to stores rather than street and public realmmarketing promotions. We’ve talked to four of you who shared with ‘MOREVision’ their view in exclusive interviews - Together with key data, useful linksand must-see video, it makes the sixth issue of MORE Vision. Follow us on
Vision by Follow us onevery 2 months: 1 consumer trend briefing • 4 retail real estate player’s viewpoints • online follow-up The trend briefing Where does the trend come from ?* If ever a concept coincided with a number of industry and consumer themes then pop-ups are it. Pop-ups fit perfectly with the entertainment economy, the experience economy and the surprise economy. The ability to surprise, entertain and perhaps even educate consumers with temporary performances, guarantees exclusivity because of the limited time span and creates a sense of now or never. Pop-ups also provide brands with an opportunity to engage directly with their customers in a way rarely available through conventional retailing. But it is not only about design. In more recent years, real estate agents and shopping centre owners have been able to make better use of vacant properties, making it easier and more attractive to set up pop-up concepts in some of the most prestigious (and high-traffic) shopping areas around the world. However, with the surprise factor for consumers greatly diminished, expect to see brands to focus on more outrageous manifestations and a shift in their attention from merely selling or introducing new product lines to turning pop-ups into centres of learning, having conversations with customers on retail and wider issues. We’ve chosen four drivers behind the current development of POP-UPS: 1. STAYING FRESH: How brands can keep their cool beyond the surprise factor. 2. AFFORDABILITY:Pop-ups continue to deliver great value in a high void era. 3.COMMUNITY: Developers and retailers look to deliver change through pop-ups. 4. SHARING: It is not always about buying but also about broader engagement.*Source: trendwatching.com a London-based, independent trend firm, scans the globe for the most promising consumer trends, insightsand related hands-on business ideas. Its free monthly Trend Briefings get sent to more than 160,000 business professionals in 180+ countries.”
Vision by Follow us onevery 2 months: 1 consumer trend briefing • 4 retail real estate player’s viewpoints • online follow-upOpportunity 1: Selected links In April 2012 Mini inaugurated its first pop- Square, where shoppers armed with an iPhone or iPad2 could see ten party dresses pop up around the iconic square by scan-Staying fresh up store at Westfield Stratford City, London, marked by a car suspended on the mall ex- ning the area using their camera function, until they discovered the ‘invisible’ dresses. terior. Open for 12 months only, it features Virtual stores also appeared in Glasgow, the cars and Mini merchandise “bringing the Birmingham, Manchester and Cardiff. much loved British car brand…to a retail set- ting which is completely removed from the 4More links on trendwatching established car showroom environment.” The Latest Scoop opens stores for five Selected video months out of every year, operating clothing and homewares stores across a variety of lo- The Airwalk invisible pop-up store cations in its key trading months April to July and November to December. The stores are advertised through social media and emails and then traffic is driven by word of mouth.After nine years as a concept, the simple act To celebrate international fashion magazineof opening up a pop-up is no longer enough Vogue’s Fashion’s Night Out event in Septem- ber 2011, luxury fashion e-tailer Net-a-Porterto reach out to a savvy consumer base, seek- offered consumers an offline experience at lo-ing fresh ideas and new experiences. The cations in New York and London. The pop-up How do you see it?pop-up concept has evolved to include in- stores were actually graphic window displays Share your view and join increasingly subtle and immersive environments which could only be viewed using “The Win- the discussion!where often it is selling the brand rather than dow Shop” app. Shoppers and prize-winnersproducts which has become the main focus. had their items delivered the next day via the What does the temporary manifestation of a e-tailer’s premier delivery service. retail brand bring to a destination?Multiple channels are also being introduced,enabling retailers to create virtual pop-up Late last year Debenhams launched the How can a landlord engage with technical UKs first virtual pop-up store in cultural lo- innovation that requires a sense of place?shops which still rely upon location to create cations across the country, allowing cus-the buzz and which help evoke a ‘club’ feel for tomers to virtually try on ten party dresses. Post your answerthose that participate in the promotion. The hotspot in London was Trafalgar 4here Selected links mier of such a concept by Alan Kalkin andOpportunity 2: Red 5 is considering a new property strat- coffee maker Illy took place at the 52nd Venice Biennale with Push Button House,Affordability egy that would mean the UK gadgets re- tailer replacing the majority of its while Motorola is another to create a crate store. More recently Boxpark opened in permanent stores with pop-up shops to re- Shoreditch, London, billed as the world’s duce rental costs. The retailer is proposing first pop-up mall. a deal in which Red 5 would move into a va- cant space under a temporary contract. If 4More links on trendwatching the landlord was approached by a retailer interested in the spot on a permanent basis, then Red 5 would relocate within the shopping centre. Selected video When Dior Homme began renovation and Target, Toronto expansion in New York the company de- cided to open a temporary store in SoHo, which will remain open until September.Pop-up stores fulfil practical as well as Highlights of the pop-up shop include a centrepiece light sculpture by artist Robertconceptual roles, often allowing a landlord Montgomery, which was chosen by Diorto fill vacant space while seeking permanent Homme designer Kris Van Assche.tenants or attracting a retailer which would The Shops of Grand Avenue, Milwaukee isnot otherwise have the financial muscle to to allow individual retail spaces to become How do you see it?take space. While on the face of it this a shared, collaborative space at one end of Share your view and join inmutually advantageous approach for both the mall. Ten vacant spaces are available on the discussion!parties, it is also one which must be the second floor of the New Arcade build-performed with care. Well chosen partners ing and parties interested in renting a por- Is there a risk of more retailers shifting to a tion of one of the spaces will be interviewed pop-up store strategy?can enhance a retail destination but by the development team. Leases are avail-temporary lets to tenants who do not bring How can a multi-party retail outlet be able for three, six or 12 months, with effectively managed?added value to an environment are a monthly rents as low as $100.potential turn-off for shoppers. Sea container crates have been an unlikely Post your answer source of inspiration. The European pre- 4here*Source: trendwatching.com a London-based, independent trend firm, scans the globe for the most promising consumer trends, insightsand related hands-on business ideas. Its free monthly Trend Briefings get sent to more than 160,000 business professionals in 180+ countries.”
Vision by Follow us onevery 2 months: 1 consumer trend briefing • 4 retail real estate player’s viewpoints • online follow-upOpportunity 3: Selected links Marking the fifth anniversary of Plan A, Marks & store fronts with five new shops, including a jew- eller and art gallery. The focus is to provide a vi- brant shopping area and give local artists,Community Spencer opened Shwop, a pop-up near Brick Lane in London, in April. The pop-up shop is designers and retailers the opportunity to open for six months, rent free. aimed at kick-starting a ‘buy one return one’ pro- gramme for used garments and encouraged vis- 4More links on trendwatching itors to donate garments to be reused or recycled by Oxfam, M&S’ partner for the programme. Set up in collaboration with the London College of Selected video Fashion, the store was open for two weeks. Detroit pop-up shops Miniature DKNY outlets popped up all over Man- hattan late last year as the fashion retailer part- nered with City Harvest for three days to bring a small sampling of its wares to locations in the Flat- iron District, Columbus Circle and the Meatpack- ing District. Customers could try items on but had to make their purchases online. For every 100 peo-Pop-up stores may sound like an unlikely source ple who entered the pop-up shop, DKNY do- nated to the food charity.of regeneration but they are increasingly beingused as a quick and cost-efficient way of spark- In Christchurch, New Zealand, Re:STARThas used shipping crates to form a temporary retail centre How do you see it?ing social regeneration or to help spread on the site of the Cashel Mall destroyed in Febru- Share your view and join inbroader social welfare messages. Pop-ups have ary’s earthquake. Re:START created a pop-up proj- the discussion!acted as catalysts for locations impacted by eco- ect featuring 27 shops, including a variety of Can pop-ups provide something socially usefulnomic issues or by natural disasters, while major retailers and two cafés. Mayor Bob Parker said the and which enhance the retail offer?retailers have also taken charitable causes on the mall would restore pride in the city, saying “is the beginning of our city making the most extraordi- What issues or causes would dovetail with theroad, highlighting social inequalities or commu- values and activities of your business?nity action programmes. These activities, often nary comeback”. popuphood was launched in December 2011 to Post your answertemporary in nature, lend themselves entirely to encourage urban renewal in Oakland, San Fran- 4herethe transient and mobile nature of pop-up initia- cisco. The project started in the historic neighbour-tives, helping to reinforce key messages. hood of Old Oakland, filling five previously vacantOpportunity 4: Selected links Target Canadas John Morioka for an exclusive glimpse into Targets design history and the Samsung – now the world’s largest mobileSharing phone manufacturer - has supported a global chance to shop the coveted Jason Wu for Target collection. Target donated an amount equal to television and brand communication campaign 100% of the sales from the event to United Way for its Galaxy S III launch with its first ever “Pins” Toronto. The US general merchandiser is open- – branded, glass pop-up stores that will show- ing its first stores in Canada next year. case all of its devices, demonstrated by a prod- uct team to provide visitors with user information 4More links on trendwatching in major towns and cities across the world. Earlier this year, as part of its Words Words Selected video Words concept, the Selfridges Ultralounge in Coca Cola, Israel London was transformed into a library. Packed floor-to-ceiling with books, the library was pro- moted as the perfect place to read old favouritesJust as retailers are finding more innovative ways and discover new ones. Visitors could also listento converse with their consumers, so pop-ups to a range of literary classics, use an old-fash- ioned typewriter or enjoy a game of Scrabble onare evolving to become informative and the interactive screens.engaging for those who visit. Such an approach Launched in 2009, Kitchen Guerillas is a Germanallows retailers and destinations to expand organisation which takes over an eclectic range How do you see it?horizons and immerse visitors in experiences of locations across Europe such as restaurants, Share your view and join inwith an educational or well-being component. stores, empty warehouses, hotels and other sites the discussion!Such an approach can also be linked with to offer a pop-up food experience for guests. Di- rections to Kitchen Guerilla locations are sent to How can you engage visitors in a way which ispromotional or themed activities or to enhance also commercially relevant?the brand equity of the hosting company. The participants on the day of the event for a menu cooked using fresh, local produce. Could a pop-up support your promotionaltemporary nature of such offers also reinforces Target hosted its first pop-up store in Canada for activity?the must-see nature of a cultural event and one-day only in Toronto on 23 February 2012.provides another strong opportunity to define Post your answer Guests were greeted by designer Jason Wu anda sense of place. 4here*Source: trendwatching.com a London-based, independent trend firm, scans the globe for the most promising consumer trends, insightsand related hands-on business ideas. Its free monthly Trend Briefings get sent to more than 160,000 business professionals in 180+ countries.”
Vision by Follow us onevery 2 months: 1 consumer trend briefing • 4 retail real estate player’s viewpoints • online follow-upRetailer: Why set up a pop-up shop at the Truman with the UKs leading lights in sustainableMarc Bolland, chief executive, Brewery, East London for the shwop fashion and design. Although it only operatedMarks & Spencer launch? for two weeks, this store was not designed "In our strategy, the shwop campaign is as a stunt. This concept is not intended as being run permanently in every Marks & something for the short term. The objective Spencer store in the UK, enabling customers was to make disposable fashion a thing of to drop off old clothes in boxes within the the past.” stores [from where they will be recycled or redistributed by charity partner Oxfam]. But How did the strategy communicate the for the launch it was important to raise the concept? awareness of what we are doing and we “We want to get back one garment for every used a pop-up strategy because you have to one we sell. For us thats 350 million a year. make an impact. ” It is a big number but I believe we can help foster a ‘buy one, give one’ culture on the What is the objective of using a pop-up high street. We have combined the pop-up store? store, which was transformed into a clothed "We hoped that by launching a pop-up store street using 9,513 discarded items of cloth- that within 24 hours this word shwopping ing – the same amount thrown away every might be added to the British language. The five minutes in the UK - with a Facebook ‘Shwop Lab was created in collaboration campaign and with the recycling boxes lo- with the London College of Fashions Centre cated in our permanent stores. ” @marksandspencer For Sustainable Fashion to explore the future of fashion through a series of collaborationsOwner & Developer: Why launch a shopping centre with some retail tenants is not necessary, the pop-upsKarolin Forsling, head of pop-ups? and temporary stores provide the operatorretail, AMF Fastigheter “You have to consider pop-up stores as part with the chance to respond to shopper of the mix. As part of our strategy at MOOD needs or perceptions of what might be miss- Stockholm we have brought a lot of new ing from a centre. ” brands to Stockholm, so as a consequence we introduced the pop-ups to deliver and Why not deliver diversity through the ten- emphasise the change in approach that we ant mix? were trying to get across to shoppers. They “Pop-ups perform a different role in evolving also allow us to adapt and change to provide a shopping space, so in our case we decided the offer our catchment wants. No matter from launch that a number will be retained, how careful the planning, consumer demand constantly being revolved to bring new ideas will change and what a pop-up element pro- to our destination, which is the real point. For vides is flexibility. ” landlords pop-ups provide the opportunity to see how their centre operates and to bring What is the objective of using pop-ups in in new or different retailers to satisfy visitor a retail destination? needs as they develop and change. But it is “I think that landlords need to consider their also vital to choose temporary stores which centres in terms of place making, rather than add something new or different to a centre as simply a collection of stores. This is par- and which sit with the overall objectives of @KarolinF ticularly important in an era of e-commerce that centre. ” and when restaurants and leisure have be- come such an important element of schemes. In my opinion having a fixed set of
Vision by Follow us onevery 2 months: 1 consumer trend briefing • 4 retail real estate player’s viewpoints • online follow-upPop-up store specialist. How do retailers and brands determine “There are three main possible objectives for a when to use pop-up stores? pop up store. First is pure communication to-Creation & promotion: “Usually pop-up stores are a tool in a wider strat- wards a very specific audience, in which caseAdrien Bisseliches, egy, with the approach needing to match the the duration will be short (a matter of days) andassociate director, core objectives, which helps identify the most is a PR type of investment. Second is the show,My Pop Up Store suitable kind of pop-up store. For retailers it is an event towards the general public or targeted often an issue of boosting their presence by sea- customers, and in that case the duration can be son, or event, but it can also be a way of testing counted in weeks, to let public awareness grow new retail spots or new retail displays/tech- and to give consumers a chance to come. It niques before implementing them in other would be an ‘event’ kind of budget. Finally, you stores. For example, Pyrenex, a French manu- have retail purposes and in this case the invest- facturer of winter jackets, has run a pop-up store ment has to be repaid through sales and often in November and December for the past two needs a couple of months. ” years. For brands, the issue is either about com- munication for the launch of a new product - get- What type of content works well with ting the end-user to live an experience they consumers and is effective within a shop- cannot get in a traditional retail store - or to test ping centre? retailing. As an example, Parrot, a French high- “Consumers love what entertains them. They tech company which operates in three very dif- love to be surprised and to be part of the ferent areas, used pop-up stores to express show. That is especially true in shopping cen- itself as a single brand to give the public an in- tres where increasingly they come with sight into their brand DNA and expertise. ” strong expectations of ‘retailtainment’, know- @MyPopUpStore ing that they can buy the same goods online. ” What is the optimum length, location and investment for a pop-up store?Broker: What are the main drivers behind using break clauses built-in and priced to reflect theDuncan Gilliard, Central pop-up stores? transitory nature of the agreement, which isLondon retail, Cushman & “Pop-up requirements tend to fall into two most likely to be in a secondary schemeWakefield types: those which are essentially promo- where the landlord might be trying to fill a tions and might only last a couple of days; void or preparing for some asset manage- and those which are temporary retail lets ment development. In promotional situations within shopping centres. In the first case the the contract will be a licence, which is a landlord might make an event charge or much shorter legal document. ” might choose to make no charge, valuing the promotional benefit to the whole centre. The How do the parties determine the finan- retailer will be effectively using it as a mar- cial equation? keting tool. In the second case the space will “It really depends on the motivation. For a probably be a void and the landlord will ne- landlord filling a void, producing some rev- gotiate a very favourable rate for the tenant, enue and introducing a new retailer has a lot allowing for the capital expense a retailer or of potential benefits, especially if not a prime brand will need to make and the temporary shopping centre. For a retailer there is the nature of the deal. ” chance to promote the business within a new environment and for some it may be How do the leases work in both cases? their first test in a shopping centre. For oth- “Typically in the case of a pop-up store let, a ers, like luggage retailers, temporary lets and lease will be for a maximum of 12 months the low shop-fit cost have become a familiar with break clauses at three months for both part of their strategy.” parties. The key is that the lease needs to provide flexibility for everyone, with good
Today’s intelligence for tomorrow’s business Access to one year of cutting-edge MORE+ Vision newsletters: • There are one trillion conversations about brands each year in the U.S. alone.… what is your Retail social media strategy? • How can retailers and retail developments reach out and engage with the citysumers? • Culture, Leisure: traffic generator? Retail spaces undergo constant change and shopping centres are embracing a fusion of cultural and retail opportunities. • Retail renaissance: physical retail has come under attack from e- commerce, but as multi-channel retail gains strength, the industry is experiencing a convergence of physical and virtual shopping experiences. • Retail in-Motion: Retail in transport hubs is becoming a real revenue driver as terminals upgrade and expand commercial development and turn into shopping malls. Next MORE+ Vision issue: September 2012MAPIC ® is a registered trademark of Reed MIDEM - All rights reserved - Reed MIDEM, a member of Reed Exhibitions, © 2012 Register here if you wish to be notified Discover the MORE+ Vision Pavilion at Mapic, 14-16 November 2012, Cannes - France • Network+ A dedicated pavilion to exhibit the latest solutions for retail real estate, with a bar and a networking area to help you connect with retail trends experts. • Discover+ The New Shopping Experience: a full-scale simulation of a customer journey, where technological solutions provide the means to attract, inform, and facilitate testing and purchasing. • Learn+ A dedicated programme with exciting "how-to" sessions, organised in partnership with Lord Culture and Invalio. Contacts Credits Contributors: Mark Faithfull • Jean-Marc André Any questions on MORE+ Vision, Acknowledgement: MORE+ Vision wishes to thank the interviewees for their kind participation please contact Editor: email@example.com Design: Frédéric Beauseigneur – Reed MIDEM Publishing Dept. Want to advertise in MORE+ Vision, Sources: “trendwatching.com, a London-based, independent trend firm, scans the globe for the most promising consumer trends, insights and related hands-on business ideas. Its free monthly Trend Brief- please contact firstname.lastname@example.org ings get sent to more than 160,000 business professionals in 180+ countries”