1. TYPES OF BONSAI
The Best Tropical Trees for
Bonsai
Several tree varieties to
contemplate include
Brazilian Rain Tree,
Bougainvillea, Ficus and
Fukien Tea. You can also
choose unique trees to form
into a bonsai such as the
tabebuia, shohin and aralia.
2. TROPICAL TYPE
Any plant that can live in the
conditions of your home,
produce a woody stem and
tolerate pruning can be a
potential bonsai. A tropical
plant is one that comes from
a climate that has
consistently warm
temperatures all year round
and receives adequate
moisture.
3. EVERGREEN TYPE
• Some of the more common
species of evergreen bonsai
include spruce, cedar, and
redwood to name a few.
Growing these trees in
containers presents some
unique challenges, but there
are many advantages to doing
so as well. Evergreen bonsai
trees need plenty of water and
nutrients in order to survive.
4. • Please note that the Ficus
is a evergreen bonsai tree.
This does not however
mean that each leaf will
last forever. New leaves
are light green, maturing to
dark green, before
yellowing and falling off.
5. DECIDUOUS TYPE
• Deciduous bonsai lose their
their leaves in winter and then
in spring they get a fresh burst
of new leaves from the buds
that have been developing
over the winter. In autumn
these leaves change colour to
put on a fantastic display
before dropping off and the
tree goes dormant for the
winter.
6. D A N I L A
3 basic tools for
BEGINNERS
• Bamboo Chopsticks.
• Pruning Shears.
• Concave Branch Cutters.
7. • When wiring an entire Bonsai tree, work from
the trunk to the primary branches, and then
start wiring the secondary branches. As a rule
of thumb, use wires that are 1/3 of the
thickness of the branch you are wiring. The
wire should be thick enough to hold the
branch in its new position.
WIRING TECHNIQUE
• Keep the newly wired tree out of direct sunlight for
2-4 days and water as needed. After 2-3 months,
when the tree has formed to the desired shape,
carefully remove the wire.
• As mentioned, the best time to begin to wire a bonsai
tree is when it's young and healthy. (Never wire an ill or
distressed tree.) Deciduous trees are best wired in early
spring—before new buds appear. This gives you the
best view of your tree's true shape and allows you to
optimize the upcoming growing season.
8.
9.
10. PRUNNING/TRIMMING
To do so, simply prune branches and
shoots that have outgrown the
intended canopy shape using twig
shears or normal cutters. Using the
right Bonsai tools will help
significantly. Don't be afraid to
prune your Bonsai regularly, it's
important to force the tree to
distribute growth more evenly and
develop dense foliage.
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12. Think about the hair on your
head, of course you want long
strong locks, but if you don't trim
it often enough, it starts to look
unkempt and maybe even a bit
damaged. The same thing
happens with your Bonsai tree,
the lower leaves lose oxygen and
light if the upper section becomes
too full.
when to TRIM
13. • Leave your bonsai outside in
spring, summer and autumn.
• Bring your bonsai inside for the
winter.
• Don't forget to water your
bonsai regularly.
• Fertilizing is important for
bonsai health.
• Pinch and trim to keep bonsai
trees miniature.
• Repotting every 2-5 years will
help your bonsai grow a better
root system.
My Story
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key steps to care bonsai
14. Positioning: Your bonsai should be kept
away from direct heat or draft.
Lighting: Keep your bonsai in area with
plenty of sunlight.
Humidity: Bonsais need humidity in
order to keep their soil moist.
SUNLIGHT
REQUIREMENTS
Bonsai need direct sunlight, from which they make their food. A lack
of direct sun will damage them, causing weak foliage and other
problems. They like to receive 5-6 hours of sunlight daily, whether
inside or outside.
15. • Approximately once a week or so (when the topsoil feels completely dry)
immerse the entire bonsai plant in a bucket or basin of water. Once the air
bubbles have risen to the top, the bonsai has absorbed enough water. Humidity
is also an important consideration for the health of the bonsai.
1. As soon as the soil begins to look dry, top up
the water.
2. You should never allow the soil to dry out
completely.
3. If you have it positioned in a spot that gets
plenty of sun, we recommend you water at
least once every 1-2 days.
WATERING
16. WATER REQUIREMENTS • USE A VERY FINE
SPRAY, DONT
BLAST THE TREE
WITH END OF THE
GARDEN HOSE.
• IF THE SOIL IS
DAMP ABOUT AN
INCH DOWN, THEN
ITS TIME TO
WATER.
• THE SOIL SHOULD
NEVER BE
ALLOWED TO DRY
OUT
• RAIN WATER IS
THE BEST
17. • For outdoor Bonsai we recommend using a
relatively high Nitrogen content fertilizer like NPK
10:6:6. in spring, a more balanced fertilizer like NPK
6:6:6 WET seasson
• During the growing season your bonsai should be fed
weekly with bonsai fertilizer. Keep in mind that your
bonsai may stop absorbing nutrients during late summer
and early fall. As growth begins to slow you should
reduce your fertilizing schedule to only once a month.
• The nutrients are washed out of the soil through normal
watering, so liquid bonsai fertilizers should be applied
every three to six weeks in the off season. When
applying, pour the liquid bonsai fertilizer directly over the
leaves and allow it to drip into the soil.
F E R T I L I
Z E R
18. Any time your tree is
inside, the air is very dry,
and the leaves want
humidity to keep them
healthy and green. Mist
as often as you like
during the day. Definitely
avoid having your
Bonsai near a vent or a
draft, as this will dry out
the foliage.
19. 1. To ensure the best results from ANY foliar fertilizers:
2. Always shake the container before opening.
3. Part fill the spray tank with clean water.
4. Add the required amount of Foliar Fertilizer, this will
dissolve completely with agitation.
5. Half fill the spray tank.
FOLIAR FERTILIZER
Foliar feed should be
applied in the early
morning when the air is
cool. Spray plants until you
see the mixture dripping
from the leaves. To help
the foliar application stick
to plants, add a small
amount of insecticidal soap
or horticultural oil. Do not
forget to spray the
underside of leaves as
well.
20. Even a healthy bonsai can become infected with
insects or become diseased due to climate
conditions that are out of your control. So no need to
feel guilty!
If your bonsai is looking droopy and sad, here are
some signs that your bonsai may be infected with
pests or disease:
Yellow leaves that fall off out of normal season
Wilted or dried leaves
Very slow growth
“Die-back”—leaves that dry out at the very tip and
move back toward the branch
PEST ON BONSAI
22. • Aphids: These tiny insects have pear-shaped bodies and suck sap from your bonsai. You can usually find aphids crowded together on the
underside of the leaves. They secrete sugary “honey dew” droplets that ants and mold love to feed on.
• Black spot: This is a fungus that appears on the leaves of your bonsai. What starts out as black spots grows into patches over time.
• Canker disease: This can look like pale leaves, slow growth, and swollen bark. Some potential causes are too much nitrogen in the fertilizer or an
unhealed wound after pruning.
• Caterpillars: While cute, these bugs are very harmful to the bonsai. You can tell your bonsai has a caterpillar if you see leaves have been eaten
or there is silk between the branches.
• Chlorosis: This is a mineral deficiency in the soil that can be identified by a yellowish color in the leaves. When there’s not enough magnesium or
iron in the soil, your bonsai isn’t able to produce enough chlorophyll, and this weakens your tree.
• Mealybugs: These small oval-shaped bugs hide in any cool, dark place on your bonsai. Some common hiding spots are the root system or in the
nook between a leaf and a branch.
• Mildew: This fungus can grow on your bonsai’s leaves and branches when it’s humid and there’s not enough light or air circulation. It’s powdery
and white and can weaken your bonsai.
• Red spider mites: These mites that look like tiny red spiders are usually found on the underside of leaves. They prefer older leaves and spin a
fine, silky web on the bottom of the leaf to protect their tiny white eggs.
• Root rot: Root rot is caused by over-watering and lack of good drainage. If infected, your bonsai’s fine white roots will turn brown and soft, its
leaves will discolor, branches will weaken, and growth will be stunted.
• Rust: Rust is a fungus that produces orange and brown spots on the underside of leaves. It looks like rusted metal and causes your bonsai to
lose leaves.
• Scales: These oval-shaped brown insects may look like bumps on the bark at first glance. They also love to congregate on the underside of
leaves and where the leaf meets the bark.
• Slugs or snails: These creatures can be harmful to your bonsai because they spread fungus, mold, and disease. They like warm and damp
weather best and leave behind slime trails on leaves and branches that are easy to spot.
• Vine weevils: When adult vine weevils eat the leaves of a bonsai, you’ll see “notches” around the edges of leaves or holes in the center. These
bugs are small, only about 10mm, and are black with yellow or white spots on their back. Their babies can be found burrowed in the soil, eating
the roots of the plant.
23. HAPPY BONSAI
Healthy, happy, and hearty bonsai are far less likely to have infestations
and infections. That may sound super high-maintenance, but fear not!
Here are some simple ways to keep your bonsai stress-free:
• Water. The soil should always be a bit moist to the touch. And the
water should be able to drain through the soil to make sure it’s
drenching the entire root system.
• Humidity and light. Lots of sunlight! Many species of bonsai love a
high humidity habitat. Try a moisture tray during drier months to help
your bonsai thrive.
• Soil. Tidy up the soil of fallen flower blooms or leaves. They love well-
draining soil that allows water to flow throughout and allows air to
circulate.
• Repot and shape. As your bonsai grows, carefully prune and shape
the branches. Repotting allows the roots to have some growing
space to spread out and deliver nutrients to the entire tree.
24.
25. Lorem Ipsum is simply dummy text of the printing and typesetting industry.
Lorem Ipsum has been the industry's standard dummy text ever since the
1500s, when an unknown printer took a galley of type and scrambled it to
make a type specimen book.
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