2. Reminders
• Purpose of class was to present enough
information to help you make a reasonable
decision.
• Certainly no obligation to get into beekeeping.
• There’s a million things that cannot be taught.
• Best teachers are the bees, “OTJ” training.
• If it is your desire, I’ll gladly help. If needed,
I’m available.
3. Challenging Times
• Bees are dying
• Beekeepers are dying, if not quitting
• The odds are stacked against them and us
• Difficult time to get started
– Loss of habitat, monoculture
– GMO crops, pesticides
– CCD Colony Collapse Disorder
4. How do I start raising bees?
• There are a thousand ways to keep honey
bees…
…and most of them work.
• Every experienced beekeeper has an opinion…
…but not all of them are correct.
5. First Year Dilemmas
• “How often do I inspect my hives?”
• “I can’t find my queen! What does she
look like?”
• If you have eggs, pearly white larvae,
capped pupae…you have a queen. You
don’t have to find her every time you open
the hive.
• “My hives are aggressive and sting me!”
7. Challenges to My Beekeeping
• Time and Energy, only 24 hours in a day
• Unpredictable, full-time job
• Myself! Especially when my old friend,
“Procrastination,” comes to visit
• Weather, storms that close windows of
opportunity
• Keeping colonies healthy and productive
with minimal, natural, non-chemical ideals
• Reducing winter losses (fall management)
8. Keeping Bees – Getting Started
• Location of apiary
• Education and Information Gathering
• Acquiring Equipment
• Finding Bees
• Harvesting and Extracting
9. 1. Location
• Sheltered from wind
• Full sun, or morning sun
• Access by vehicle or wheel barrow
• Plant diversity within 2 miles
• Neighbors and livestock
• City ordinances
15. 2. Education
• Take a class
• Read the supply catalogs
• Find a local association
– First Presbyterian Church 4th Tuesday
– 7:00 pm Park in back, use the hdcp ramp
• Find a mentor or partner or buddy
• Read, read, read (You Tube videos)
• Get bees…learn by the seat of your pants
16. Bee classes
• Three Rivers Bee Association
• http://threeriversbeekeepers.com/
• Eastern Missouri Beekeepers Association
• http://www.easternmobeekeepers.com/
17. 3. Acquiring Equipment
• Buy new – stay similar, i.e. 8 or 10 frame
• Buy used (ever wonder why those bees
died?) – mixed sizes, homemade orphans
• Make your own (when you have more time
than money) – keep it simple
– Buy lumber (poor quality)
– Salvage and pirate dumpsters, pallets
– Can be very relaxing and therapeutic
– Stick with Langstroth conventions
– Buy new and use as a pattern
18. Easiest Way
• Isabees in St. Louis www.isabees.com
• The Bee Barn in Paducah
www.beebarnshop.com
• Go visit and ask them what they
recommend, opportunity to ask questions
• You can see and feel, hands-on
• Order a “beginner’s kit” from any supplier
(but maybe get some unnecessary things)
19. Equipment: Thinking Ahead
• “Will I make honey my first year?”
• “Do I need an extractor (honey spinner) for
my first year?”
• Do I need a special place, dedicated room
to extract my honey?
• Do I need a queen excluder?
• What if I find out I’m allergic to bee stings?
20.
21. Equipment Issues
• What if I decide not to continue?
• What’s the resale value? (25%? 50%?)
• Who wants to buy my homemade stuff?
• Who will buy my orphaned, odd-size stuff?
• How much can I expect to get back?
22. 4. Where will I acquire my bees?
• Packages
• Nucs (Nucleus, mini-colony)
• Swarms (including traps and phone calls)
• Purchasing whole, existing hives
• Taking feral colonies out walls and trees
• Different sources will raise different
expectations, yield different results.
23. A. Packages
• Easiest to start, easy to acquire
• 1 Queen, a bunch of loose bees, unrelated
• Place caged queen in your hive
• Shake bees around her, close up and feed
• It takes the queen one week to be
released and start laying eggs.
• It takes three weeks for those eggs to
hatch and emerge as adults.
• It takes a package four weeks to start
building up. Older bees start dying.
24.
25.
26.
27. Feeding ?
• I suggest seven weeks of 1:1 syrup and a
pollen patty, Honey-B-Healthy
• Why seven weeks?
Four weeks until first generation hatches
Three weeks as house/nurse bees until they
become foragers
• I highly recommend wax foundation
• Donate brood frames frames from existing
colonies = very, very helpful!
28. B. Nucleus Colonies
• Basically a mini-version of the hive
• Beekeeper makes nucs after buying a
mail-order queen, then splits their hive
• Laying queen, already accepted
• 4 or 5 frames of bees and “brood”
• Ready for expansion into the big hive
• You have a four week jump on packages
because you have brood in all stages.
29.
30.
31. Feeding (?)
• At least two weeks with 1:1 syrup and
pollen patty, Honey-B-Healthy suggested.
• If you have other colonies, pulling one or
two frames of brood from them to add to
this nuc will greatly enhance it’s growth.
• Nuc producers tend to put older “junk”
frames into nucs, frames with dark, black
wax. Plan on replacing these.
32. C. Swarms
• Typically feral colonies living in the wild
• Send out swarms in late spring and early
summer to repopulate the local area.
• Will be an old queen and half of the
original hive (old hive raises new queen)
• Easy to settle into a bee hive, very
motivated to draw out comb and get
going
• Will eventually supersede that old queen
33.
34.
35.
36.
37. Swarms
• Cheap! Free! And unpredictable!
• Can’t be scheduled, may not show up
• Can’t always be retrieved (40 feet in the
air)
• Will sit still for 20 minutes up to 2 days.
• When called, you really need to go NOW
• Best to retrieve them at dusk
• Great public service – get on “swarm list”
38. D. Buying Existing Hives
• Often neglected, but not always
• History can be fuzzy, why are you selling?
• REALLY HEAVY
• Have to be moved with bees in them
• Best to move after dark, entrances
screened, bees agitated, and hot
• Better yet, split into nucs, requeen and
lighten the weight.
42. Minimum First Year
• Top
• Inner Cover
• Medium Super** maybe make some honey
• Brood Box – frames with wax foundation
• Brood Box
• Bottom (I prefer screen bottom boards)
• Hive Stand
43. Getting bees established
• Once established, bees know how to take
care of themselves.
• Start bees in one box, intersperse comb
• 70% rule = when 7 of the 10 frames are
drawn out with comb, add a second box.
• When 7 of those 10 are drawn out, add a
third box. Bring bottom box to the top.
• Objective: build colony to be strong
enough to survive the coming winter
44. What to expect your first year
• Spring – build up of brood, add boxes pro re nata
• Summer – bees store nectar, make honey,
maybe some surplus honey, maybe not
• Late Summer – start treating for mites, etc.
• Fall – insure adequate stored honey or feed
sugar syrup, queen slows down, consolidation
• Winter – worry needlessly because it’s so cold
and you think your bees won’t make it.
• Spring – suppress mild shock as bees start
flying. Cycle starts over with build up of brood.
• Now you’re faced with second-year issues
45. Some bees die
“If you’re raising live stock
you have to get used
to dead stock.”
46. Record Keeping
• Keep a journal (on-line programs)
– www.hivetracks.com
• More like a personal blog (publish it on the Internet if you
wish!)
• Details are a huge help if you ask someone a question
• Write things down in a notebook
• Date
• What I saw and observed
• What I did, action
• What I need to do next time, what equipment needed
• Take pictures
47. Every Beekeeper is Different
Every Hive is Different
Every Year is Different
• Shoot first, then call whatever you hit the target.
“I meant for that to happen.”
• Nothing important merely happens. Plan,
anticipate, expect success, keep learning!
• There is no “try,” only do.
• Everyone starts out with a “first year.”
• Many people start over in their second year, or
third year, or fourth year…