Axolight is an innovative skin lightening ingredient derived from wheat that inhibits melanogenesis in two ways. It partially inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase but also works through another pathway by inhibiting TRP-1, a protein involved in melanin production. In vitro and ex vivo tests demonstrated Axolight significantly reduces melanin content and the number of melanocytes compared to the positive control kojic acid. An in vivo test also showed Axolight to be more effective and faster acting at lightening skin than a cream containing 2% arbutin. Axolight is classified as readily biodegradable and approved for use in Ecocert products between 2-3% for its skin lightening benefits.
Axolight Naturally Lightens Skin via TRP-1 Pathway
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AXOLIGHT
Innovative lightening active ingredient
• Ecocert approved • New mode of action in melanogenesis
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• The pigmentation of the skin
results from the presence of
eumelanin (black-brown) and
pheomelanin (yellow-orange) in
the epidermis
• Melanin is synthesized, in 4
steps, in specialised cells, the
melanocytes, which transfer
them to the keratinocytes.
Biologicalcontext
DERMISEPIDERMIS Maturation stages of melanosomes
into the melanocytes.
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AXOlight : ArabinoXylo-Oligosaccharides
Structure : Xylose chain substitued by Arabinose
Mean degree of Polymerization : 4
Structure
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Fabrication process is composed in 5 major steps :
Raw material destarching (without solvent)
Enzymatic hydrolyse of hemicelluloses (specific)
Separation of arabinoxylanes
Purification
Standardization of the concentration
Productionprocess
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In Vitro test- Protocol
Normal human melanocytes are incubated 72 hours at 37°C, on a humid atmosphere with 5% of CO2.
Incubation is made with:
- Culture medium only
- with Kojic acid at 0,003% (positive reference)
- or with increasing concentration of Axolight
Melanin dosage is measured with a spectrophotometer at 405 nm.
Axolight inhibits melanogenesis
more efficiently than kojic acid
Axolightinhibitsthemelanogenesis
Inhibition of melanogenesis
Axolight inhibits melanogenesis with a dose effect
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In Vitro test - Protocole
Tyrosinase activity is quantified with a spectrophotometer, with L-DOPA (substrate of tyrosinase). After
the action of the tyrosinase, L-DOPA is transformed in dopachrom which is a colored compound
detectable by spectrocolorimeter at 490 nm.
Axolight inhibits melanogenesis via
tyrosinase and another pathway
Inhibitionofmelanogenesis:
tyrosinaseakeyenzyme
Even though Axolight significantly inhibits melanogenesis, it is only partially due to its inhibition of tyrosinase
indicating that it works in another metabolic pathway melanogenesis.
Inhibition of tyrosinase activity
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Melanogenesis:newdata
1. If tyrosine is at a low
concentration, TRP-1 can induce
transformation of tyrosine in
L-DOPA.
2. The augmentation of L-DOPA
quantity induce the activation of
tyrosinase.
3. TRP-1 forms a complex with
activated tyrosinase to stabilize it
and increase its activity.
References:
Human tyrosinase related protein-1
(TRP-1)
Tyrp1 and Oculocutaneous Albinism
Type 3
Human TRP-1 Has Tyrosine
Hydroxylase but no DOPA Oxidase
activity
Protein kinase C-b-mediated complex
formation
(TRP-1)
1
2
3
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Ex Vivo test - Protocol
Skin explants (33 year old Caucasian woman) were treated with different treatments during 10 days:
- Application of a cream containing 3% of Axolight every 2 days
- Irradiation by UV every day.
Number of TRP-1 positive melanocytes is measured by immunolabelling
Axolight efficiently inhibits melanogenesis via TRP-1
InhibitionofmelanogenesisviaTRP-1
With Axolight positive TRP-1 melanocytes are reduced by 88%*
TRP-1 positive melanocytes
Composition of the cream with 3% of Axolight
Ingredients %
Xyliance 4
Caprylic/capric triglycerides 12
Aqua Qsp 100
Preservative Qs
Glycerin 1
Axolight 3
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Ex Vivo test - Protocol
Lightness of the skin (L*) is measured by
chromameter
Measure of melanine is done by image analysis
Axolight inhibits melanogenesis and
prevents UV-induced coloration
Inhibitionofmelanogenesis
Inhibition of explant color
> Axolight maintains luminosity of the skin
despite UV irradiation
Visualization of melanin at D10
a. Control batch
b. Batch treated with 3% of Axolight
a b
> Axolight reduces melanin quantity by 18%*
Composition of the cream with 3% of Axolight
Ingredients %
Xyliance 4
Caprylic/capric triglycerides 12
Aqua Qsp 100
Preservatives Qs
Glycerin 1
Axolight 3
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In Vivo test - Protocol
Efficacy of Axolight is evaluated on a panel of volunteers (22 Asian-type women, medium age of 37
years old)
Application twice a day during 56 days, on the forearm, of 1 cream with 3% of Axolight or 1 cream with
2% of arbutin.
The coloration of the skin is measured with a mexameter and a spectrocolorimeter
(A mexameter mesures melanin quantity; the lower the mexametric index is, the lighter the skin is.)
Axolight works faster than arbutin
Lighteningeffect-InVivotest
Variation of mexametric index (lightening effect)
91% of volunteers have shown a lightening effect
(vs 82% for cream with arbutin)
Axolight presents significant results from 28 days.
Variation of luminosity L* vs D0
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Biodegradability
ECOCERT
Ecocert approved
Axolight is environmentally friendly
Environment
Pourcentage de biodégradation par rapport à la DThO
Axolight is classified as
readily biodegradable
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Caracteristics
INCI Name: Water (and) Hydrolyzed wheat flour
Aspect : yellow to amber liquid
Odor: odorless
Preservative : none
Dosage : 2-3%
Cosmetic uses
Axolight is recommended in :
• lightening products
• Anti-aging products, for age spot prevention
• ECOCERT products
Cosmeticuses
APPLICATIONS BENEFITS EXEMPLES
Sun
Protection
PREVENT
Sun screen
UV Protection
Age spot
prevention
care
Day cream
Night cream
Cleansing gel
Foam
Lotion
Mask
Whitening care
LIGHTEN
Complexion
lightening
Tinted cream
nude make-up
After-sun EXTEND Cream
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• Patented and Ecocert validated
• Efficacy proved
• Double inhibition of melanogenesis
• Innovative mode of action
• Environment friendly
Put the light on your beauty!
Conclusion