History of weaving from date of origin

2.  Sinew-a piece of tough fibrous tissue uniting muscle to
bone
 Flax-5000 BC,
 Cotton-3000 BC, Worn by egyptian arlier than 2500
BC.
 Wool-3000 BC, Used by people of the Late Stone Age
 Silk-2600 BC, Began about 1725 BC

3.  one of the oldest arts & crafts
 early civilization needs for clothing & shelter
 Learn twisting from grasses and plant stalks
 Earliest surviving evidence of fiber crafts from
late upper paleolithic period.
 1950- france- a clay carbonaceous imprint
discovered – clearly distinguish the puffiness of
the twist

4.  The oldest example of textiles yet identified by
archaeologists is at the Dzudzuana Cave in the
former Soviet state of Georgia. There, a
handful of flax fibers was discovered that had
been twisted, cut and even dyed a range of
colors. The fibers were radiocarbon-dated to
between 30,000-36,000 years ago.
 Both sides of a fragment of a woven mat or
basket container from Guitarrero

5.  essential for shelter
temporary
assembled quickly & securely
plaiting, twining, knotting, weaving
walls, doors, rugs, hammocks

6.  clothing
display of power
to frighten the enemy
social approval

7.  birds nests
 spider webs
 beavers dams
 animal pouches

8.  Structural concept of loom evolved from the ancient methods of arranging yarn or
plant material for finger weaving some form of basketry and netting.
 The most common was plain weave.
 Later they became inventive to find long float twill, basket weave twill etc

9.  hemp
 raffia
 leaf fibers
 hair
 wool
 fur
 sinew

10.  plain woven fabrics dated as early as 5000BC
 fabrics and garments indicated status and caste
 The earliest example we could find was these knitted socks, ©
Victoria and Albert Museum, London, circa 300-499, excavated
from Egypt at the end of the 19th century.

11.  mummy cloths
 system of tablet/card weaving: warp-weighted
 Skilled dyers & embroiderers
 Evidence of the earliest knitting, using two needles, is believed to come from Egypt in the
eleventh century, where more knitted socks were found.
 But from there we jump to thirteenth and fourteenth century Europe, particularly France,
Germany and Britain.
 Fashionable knits were known in France as early as the 1420s
 high level of expertise until decline of Egypt second mil.BC

12.  located between Tigris & Euphrates
 Sumerians & Babylonians
 weaving industry developed by the third
millenium
 robes of Sumerian kings and priests
 Mesopotamian textile , Hermitage
Museum
 Bhaktiyari motifs

13.  Babylonians replaced Sumerians about 1800 BC
 great emphasis on weaving & embroidery
 Babylonians embraced wovens with variety of material and yarns.
 Textiles were one of the most important trade goods in
Mesopotamia. Babylonian textiles were thought to be the best.
Bundles were tied to donkeys.

14.  ancient fragments of wool and linen from 3000BC in Palestine
 wool was the most common fiber
 white wool & course wools or wool with mixtures of colors
 pure linen reserved for high priest only

15.  plain weaves, multicolor materials, & art-weavers
 capable of producing very complex yarns
 metallic yarns and dyeing techniques

16.  textile arts valued highly
 tapestry weaving particularly important
 exquisite silk tapestries
 rich color and pattern
 border fragment, Period: 224 to 651 A.D.
Warp: Material: linen, tan, Weft: Material:
wool, dyed

17.  very accomplished weavers
 warp-weighted loom
 wool & linen most popular
 later wool primarily for men & byssus for women
 equally skilled in fabric as mastery in other fields
 Women made blanket, table linen, Pazyryk carpet,
and many other textile

18.  Romans considered weaving to be beneath them
 imported fabrics from Greece
 imported slaves for purpose of spinning, weaving, making
garments for their households
 various weaving centers with variety in types of fabrics

19.  silk deemed as most precious
 emperess Hsi Ling shi & discovery of silk-while
shipping tea under mulberry tree
 no need for spinning
 Sogdian silk 8th century

20.  specialized in extremely fine textiles and mastery of
ikat
 also highly figurative weaves

21.  peasant class of the Copts adopted Christianity
 Coptic art distinguished for its splendid textiles
 abstract, highly stylized forms
 later Christian elements and “story” content emerges

22.  especially skilled at tapestry, mosaic style
 best known is woven medallion motif
 Coptic weavers pressed into service of Arabs

23.  Roman capital moved to Byzantium, renamed
Constantinople
 major center for silk textile manufacturing
 monks concealed silkworm eggs from China to
Constantinople
 lavish figure weaves

24.  began entirely by hand
 first improvement method of holding warp yarns taut
 most basic form provides framework to hold warp rigid while
weft is interlaced
 warp weighted loom with horizontal beam
 Greeks, Romans, Scandinavians, Indians of North & South
America

25.  the backstrap loom
 tension could be controlled by shift of weight
 mostly wove with fingers
 more advanced use heddles and seperators to create sheds
 Indians of Peru during pre-Inca periods
 still used by native peoples of Southeast Asia and the
Americas

26.  horizontal ground looms
 provides a fixed support at both ends of the warp
 frees weaver physically from the loom
 pit loom in India
 tripod loom in Africa

27.  horizontal frame loom
 known in ancient Egypt & China
 in principle it is identical to the common floor loom used
today
 used in Europe, by 13th century & Renaissance weavers
 the draw loom
 invented in China
 master weaver & assistant
 intricacy of pattern
 the jacquard loom
 first pattern loom on a mechanized system
 Joseph Marie Jacquard for French government in 1804
 same principle as a piano or modern computer
 astonishingly fast and completely automatic

28.  modern hand looms
 counterbalance loom
 harnesses operate in tandem: one harness is lowered and connecting
is raised
 all warp yarns depart from horizontal
 jack loom
 each harness works independently
 4 harnesses or more
 countermarch loom
 rising-shed loom as counterbalance
 harnesses work independently as jack
 however makes much larger shed
 upright loom
 different variations of structure
 excellent for tapestry
 popular in Navajo weavings
 table loom
 all weaving operations performed with the hands

29.  by the end of 19th interest in handcrafts vanished
 revival in 20th century and also currently
 began with William Morris, the Bauhaus, Anni Albers, Art Deco

30.  craftsman style flourished around the turn of 20th century in
England and also America
 American interest in hand weaving began in later part of 1920’s
 weaving pioneers: Mary Atwater, Anni Albers move to US, Lili
Blumenau, Dorothy Liebes

31.  growth of craft organizations throughout the US
 Industrial Revolution and Craft Revival in the South
 learned to be almost entirely self-sufficient
 folk handcrafts passes from generation to generation

32.  ranges from completely hand woven without assistance of tools
to almost entirely digitally woven
 greater availability and variety of materials due to technological
advances

33.  Olga de Amaral

34.  angharad mclaren

35.  El Anatsui : Ghanian sculptor with woven
structure

36.  laurie addis

37.  suzanne tick

38.  gabriel dawe


39.  other contemporary non-loom “woven” structures

41.  Plain weave
 Twill weave
 Satin/sateen weave
 Pile weave
 Jacquard weave
 Dobby weave
 knits

45.  http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2012/06/history-of-weaving-
in-according-with.html
 http://www.fofweb.com/History/HistRefMain.asp
 http://www.mariamilani.com/ancient_rome/roman_cl
othing.htm
 http://www.crystalinks.com/egyptclothing.html
 http://www.olgadeamaral.com
 http://www.angharadmclaren.co.uk/
 http://suzannetick.com/

46. Thank You