1. GT-LTS
Disk Brake Conversion

2. Supplies needed
• Universal rear disk
• Complete Disk Brake Kit brake mounting
purchased at e-Bay.
• http://www.ebay.com/itm/350494596169?ssPageName
=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
• This seller advertises two different
models. I purchased the adapter that
is for bike frames that do NOT have
the pre-existing mounting holes. The
bracket is a tad larger than the other
option.

3. Following is a list of items I purchased
at the local Home Depot store.
1- shelf bracket, portion of
this bracket will be used
for the forward pressure
support arm.
3 - 5.8mm hex bolts
20 mm long with
appropriate nuts
3 - 6.1mm hex bolts
20 mm long with
appropriate nuts
2 - 2 mm washer

4. Tools needed
• Small C-Clamp
• Vise Grip pliers
• 4mm & 5mm Allen wrenches
• 8mm & 10mm open
end wrenches
• 11/64 & 15/64 drill bits
• Drill

5. Hole alphabetical position. E” will be
drilled in slide No 14.
B
A D
E
C

6. The Universal kit does not have a template
of where to drill the holes on the bicycle
frame.
You have to find the sweet spot where the
caliper fits perfect, and that’s when you
drill the frame.
After-all, you don’t want start drilling holes
without being sure of where the bracket
will go and end up with a frame full of
holes.

7. Assemble your caliper to the universal
mounting bracket, make sure all bolts
are tight (do not torque).

8. Make sure you install your wheel on
the bike.
Place the caliper over the brake disk
and try to find the exact spot where
the wheel will rotate with the least
amount of resistance.

9. Place the C-clamp to hold the caliper in place
where the (C) hole is at, continue to rotate the
wheel to ensure that the position has not been
compromised (if adjustments are needed make
sure to loosen the C-clamp enough to adjust the
bracket and retighten).

10. Place a vise grip pliers at the rear of the bracket
(D hole) to make sure you have no movement as
the next step will be to drill the frame.

11. Once again make sure you rotate the wheel to
confirm it turns freely, at this point if there is
minimal resistance, without removing the vise
grips or loosening the C-clamp, loosen the
adjustment bolts that hold the caliper to the
universal mounting,

12. press on the brake lever and maintain
pressure, at the same time tighten the
adjustment bolts and then release the brake
lever. Your brake caliper should be perfectly
aligned. Turn the wheel to confirm the
alignment.

13. Extreme Caution should be
taken on the next steps as you
will now be drilling your hard to
replace frame Triangle.

14. With the 11/64 drill bit, drill your first hole (E),
you will be drilling the bracket followed by the
frame, keep a steady hand…

15. (The reason for this hole is that the
position of the outer hole (D) is right at the
edge of the frame and with the amount of
pressure your braking system will receive
you will run the chance of braking the
frame, bolt “E” will compensate and
absorb some of that pressure). Insert a
5.8mm bolt and tighten it using the
appropriate nut. After tightening the bolt
rotate the wheel again to check for
resistance.

16. Remove your vise grip; you are now
ready to drill your second hole (D).
The bracket comes with a 6.1mm
hole, in my set up if I was to drill a
6.1mm hole there would be too
much material removed from the
frame and I felt it would
compromise the integrity of the
frame.

17. I chose to drill a 11/64 hole, it was drilled so the
bolt rest on the bottom of the existing bracket
hole. Inset another 5.8mm bolt and tighten.

18. You can now remove the C-clamp; the last
hole (C) on the bracket will be
exposed, continue by drilling through this
hole (C) with a 15/64 drill bit, insert a 6.1mm
bolt and tighten.

19. Your new braking system
should now be working, check
your wheel to make sure there
is no resistance, if there is little
resistance all you need to do is
adjust your caliper using the
same process described above
on slides No 11 & 12.

20. The last part of this process will cover
the installation of your forward
pressure support arm, you will have
lots of pressure on the front of the
universal bracket and I felt a support
was needed. I’m no engineer but I feel
that not having this support arm will
run the chance of braking or having
something give due to the amount of
pressure the brakes will generate.

21. From the shelving bracket hinge use the
section with the bend at the end. I cut 3.5
inches from that end, for cosmetic reasons I
rounded the end of the section that I cut.

22. Drill a 15/64 hole at the end of your
forward pressure support arm that
you just cut (painting it black is
optional although paint gives it a
finished look).

23. Remove the front bracket bolt (A)
and place your front support arm
with the curb going downward.
facing inward.

24. Drill a 11/64 hole on your frame using
the hole on your front support arm (F)
and insert a 5.8mm bolt and tighten.

25. Final brake adjustment as
described on slides No 11 & 12.

26. You may now torque all your bolts and apply a
small amount of lock-tight to eliminate any
possibility of the nuts coming undone in the
middle of the trail.

27. Top and rear view

28. Your new braking system should work
wonders …