This document provides a summary of the e-book "The Bigger Picture Berlin" which aims to give readers an overview of what makes Berlin uniquely special rather than just listing events and activities. It includes an introduction outlining the goal to provide a blend of must-see attractions and places. There is a brief history section giving a timeline of Berlin's development from founding in the 13th century through division and reunification in the 20th century. A survival guide section provides essential information for visitors on transportation, money, medical care, and accessibility in the city.

1. THE BIGGER PICTURE BERLIN
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2. THE BIGGER PICTURE 3
No matter how big a team you put together, even if you
have a plethora of words or an unlimited amount of time;
if you’re posed with the challenge of reviewing a city it’s
a fairly mammoth task. How on earth do you summarise
its entire geographic, historic and cultural information all
into, in this particular case, one e-Book? Quite simply,
the answer is you cannot. Therefore, we set out with a
slightly different intention. We want to provide you with
‘The Bigger Picture’. Rather than just listing the magnitude
of events and activities available, our goal has been to
convince you as to what makes Berlin so uniquely special
to visit. Thus, we’ve hunted down and presented the per-
fect blend of attractions and places to visit that replicates
our experience of this incredibly diverse city.
It’s near impossible to even begin describing Berlin
without mentioning its history. Although long-spanning,
the amount that has occurred here in just the past cen-
tury alone is vast and incomparable to nearly any other
place in the world. Modern-day Berlin is surrounded by its
past, largely because in most instances, it occurred not
so long ago. In our Brief History section, we’ve provided
a timeline of historical events and information which will
help you gain a full and comprehensive understanding of
our recommended sites, allowing you to appreciate their
relevance and purpose in the city’s current culture.
For those of you whose time in Berlin is fairly limited, we’ve
created a Survival Guide which includes an item named:
‘24 hours in Berlin’. Spanning from 09:00 until 09:00 the
hypothetical following day, we’ve crammed in as much
as humanly possible so that even if you’re short on time,
you’ll see a large proportion of what the city has to offer
and already be desperate to return for more.
We’ve also included some essential information to make
your time here run as smoothly as possible; we want you
to be focused on absorbing the palpably thriving atmos-
phere rather than on the comparably smaller details. For
instance, there are some key German phrases, details on
Berlin’s Accessibility provisions and longer features on
Public Transport and Accommodation, so that it’s far eas-
ier for you to decide where you want to stay and the best
way to navigate to all our must-see locations! Once our
feature has helped you get to grips with the city’s trans-
port network, look out for station and route details on each
of our reviews.
This is then followed by a little context. We state the
district in which all these attractions fall, but in relation
to Berlin as a whole, what does that actually mean? We
want you to start to get the feel of what a particular event
or landmark will be, just from noting the area in which it’s
located. Henceforth, there are brief profiles of all the city’s
key districts, with some background information about
SHAADI KHOSHRAVI-RAD
03INTRODUCTION TO BERLIN
A basic introduction to The Bigger Picture.
04HISTORY OF BERLIN
A timeline of all the key points of Berlin’s history.
06SURVIVAL GUIDE
Everything you need to know to get around in Berlin.
15PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Tips and tricks on how to use Berlin’s transport system.
12NEIGHBOURHOODS IN BERLIN
An outline of the six main districts in Berlin.
18SIGHTSEEING
26MUSEUMS & MONUMENTS
32ARTS & CULTURE
66MUSIC & PARTYING
50EATING & DRINKING
60BARS & BEER GARDENS
38SHOPPING
72DAY TRIPS
their beginnings and development, as well as a general
sense of their atmosphere and culture.
Okay so by this point, we think you’re ready to start ex-
ploring. As much as possible, we’ve attempted to strike
a balance between the past and the present; the historic
and the cultural, the mainstream and the alternative. Our
intention, again, is to provide you with a guide that truly
reflects the Berlin you will be visiting. It’s not necessary
to stick to the beaten track and simply see the Branden-
burg Gate, the Berliner Dom and Museum Island. At the
same time, you shouldn’t reject these entirely and remain
solely within Berlin’s underground scene, hunting graffiti
and chasing shadows in Kreuzberg by night. Although
seemingly opposing sides and ideals of the city, they in
fact coexist and help each other thrive: the past highlights
the liberalism of the present and the modern culture has
only developed because of the historic events that fuelled
drastic change. Instead of merely scraping the surface,
we think we’ve provided enough variety for you to sink
your teeth right into the centre of Berlin, which is a molten
mix of sight-seeing, clubbing and everything and anything
in-between.
In addition, there’s also a section on some potential trips
to undertake that are only a short distance away and, in
regards to painting ‘The Bigger Picture’, we really feel they
add to the landscape of Berlin and its role in the sociocul-
tural development of Germany as a whole.
Then finally, you’ll briefly get to meet us! Who we are, a
little about our lives and our ‘Most Berlin Moment’: the
located fragment of time when we felt we had finally be-
come one with the city.
Essentially, our aspiration was to provide you with the
true image of Berlin. One that’s not fragmented or divided
(as it once was) but as a whole, albeit slightly stitched
together and disjointed, picture. It is not a realist piece. It
is utterly surreal and unconventional. It marries together
styles, morals, cultures and ideologies that should not
co-exist and function competently. And yet they do and
it really does work. Oh so well. Berlin is a living piece of
experimental art. Its aim and purpose is often confused
and misunderstood but what it’s trying to do, and what we
hope to assist you to see, is that it is trying to paint an all
together much bigger picture.
MEET OUR CONTRIBUTORS
OUTDOORS
74
46
14ACCOMMODATION
Guidance on where to stay during your visit to Berlin.
INTRODUCTION TO
BERLIN

3. THE BIGGER PICTURE 54 HISTORY
CHRISTINA LEWIS & JOANNA COLLINS
FOUNDING
1230
The Nikolaiviertal (aka St. Nicholas’
Church) is built
1237
Officially founded as two separate col-
onies on either side of the river: Berlin
and Cölln
TIIERGARTEN
1530
Tiergarten Park was created as a royal hunting
ground and game preserve
UNIFICATION
1307
Berlin and Cölln become a unified front but
still maintain independence from each other in
many ways
1432
Berlin and Cölln officially merge
MODERN BERLIN
2006
FIFA world cup
is held at Berlin’s
Olympic Stadium
PLAGUE
1576
the plague hits Berlin and kills
about 6000 people
A BRIEF HISTORY
OF BERLIN
REFUGEES
1640-1688
Freidrch Wilhelm
(the Great Elector)
welcomes religious
refugees into Berlin
thus expanding the
population
KING OF PRUSSIA
1701
Frederick I King of Prussia
begins self-proclaimed
monarchy after uniting the
territories of Brandenburg
& Prussia. He orders Char-
lottenberg to be built and
makes Berlin the capital of
Prussia
CONSTRUCTION
1793
The Brandenburg gate is
constructed
1830-1930
Berlin’s MuseumsInsel
(aka Museum Island) is
constructed
TRANSIT
1882
Berlin opens its city transit
DISTRICTS
1920
Berlin is organised into districts
TEMPELHOF
1923
Templehof airport begins
construction & inflation
becomes absolutely
insane (3.6 million marks
for some rye bread,
anyone?)
FORERUNNER
1935
Berlin begins its television
broadcasting service (the first
within the world)
OLYMPIASTADION
1936
Berlin hosts the summer
Olympics
KRISTALLNACHT
1938
Kristallnacht or The Night of Broken
Glass sees the destruction and terror-
iswation of Jewish synagogues, shops
and citizens
END OF WW2
1945
Hitler takes his own life in his
bunker, formerly located near
the Brandenburg Gate. Berlin is
divided among the victors of WW2
at the Potsdam Conference
BERLIN AIRLIFT
1948
The Soviets cut Berlin off
from West Germany which
causes the allies to begin the
Berlin Luftbrücke (Berlin Airlift);
supplying the city with all
necessities via airplane
EAST/WEST BERLIN
1949
City is divided into East and West
Berlin. Currywurst is introduced to
the city.
BERLIN WALL
1961
The construction
of the Berlin Wall
begins
ICH BIN EIN BERLINER
1963
John F Kennedy gives his “Ich bin ein
Berliner” speech. This phrase can mean
one of two things in German: “I am a
Berliner” or “I am a jelly doughnut”
FERNSEHTURM
1965-1969
Berlin’s famous TV tower was
constructed
END OF THE WALL
1989
The people of Berlin are given
permission to travel without restric-
tions and begin flooding the border
of West Berlin. The wall begins to
come down.
UNIFIED BERLIN
1990
Berlin is reunified into
one city
NEW FACE OF BERLIN
1995
The new Reichstag is
unveiled
BERLIN REMEMBERS
2005
The Memorial to the Murdered
Jews of Europe is created &
presented
THE NEW FACE OF
POLITICS
2005
Angela Merkel becomes
the first female chancellor
in Germany
GREAT DEPRESSION
1929
The Great Depression hits Berlin
hard causing violent uprisings. The
National Socialist party begins to
gain popularity
THE RISE OF NAZISM
1933
The national socialist party rises
to power and the first concen-
tration camp within this area is
opened just outside of Berlin. At
this time, Berlin also becomes
the Nazi headquarters, the
Reichstag is set on fire & Hitler is
named chancellor

4. THE BIGGER PICTURE 76 SURVIVAL GUIDE
HOW TO GET BY
IN BERLINFELICITY EDWARDS, KATYA PARKES & MOLLY STOCK-DUERDOTH
BEFORE YOU ARRIVE
VISAS
• EU nationals and citizens of Australia, Canada, Israel,
Japan, NZ, Switzerland and the US only need a passport
to enter Germany. Others will need to obtain a Schen-
gen visa which is valid for 90 days. See www.auswaer-
tig-es-amt.com for details on how to obtain one.
PACKING
• Germany uses the standard European 2-point plug, so
bring an adaptor if needed.
• Berlin weather, even in summer, is extremely changeable
so pack layers! As a guideline, average temperature is
around 9°C in April, 19°C in August and 1°C in December.
• Medication, even paracetamol, can be difficult to come
by so be sure to bring enough prescription drugs for your
entire trip.
• If you’re here for the near-mythological nightlife, bring
casual yet thoughtful outfits for the more exclusive venues.
Although there is no strict clubbing uniform, all black is
generally a safe option.
WHEN IN BERLIN
GENERAL
• Berlin time zone is GMT+1.
• The main tourist information centre is by the Branden-
burg Gate on Unter den Linden. There are also tourist
offices at both airports.
TRANSPORT
• U-bahn here means underground train line and S-bahn,
overground.
• There are also trams – those running 24 hours start with
an M – and a bus service, with the 100 and 200 buses
covering the entire tourist trail. On the weekends, trams
and buses sometimes deviate from their usual routes. See
our transport section (page 17) for more information.
• Say ‘kurzstrecke’ to a taxi driver and they’ll take you up
to 2km for a flat rate of €5. You must make this clear as
soon as you get in the car or you’ll be charged according
to the meter.
MONEY
• Berlin uses the euro, mainly in cash form. Although ATMs
are surprisingly sparse, it’s best not to assume anywhere
that you can pay by card. When using an ATM, try to find
one inside a bank which won’t charge you for the with-
drawal – the bank itself might look closed but the ma-
chines in the foyer are usually open 24 hours.
• When tipping, 5-10% is customary in restaurants. Always
EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TRIP.
PHOTO TAKEN BY FELICITY EDWARDS
STREET ART
give the waiter the money in person – leaving cash on the
table is considered rude. If you simply don’t want change,
say ‘stimmt so’ (roughly, ‘it’s fine’) when paying with a
note. Taxi drivers expect 10% rounded to a euro.
IN THE CITY
• Public toilets are €0.50 per use and you are given 15
minutes which can be extended to 35.
• On Sundays, nearly all shops and supermarkets will be
closed. Unless you’re planning on eating out, do your
shopping early on Saturday to avoid sparsely stocked
shelves and huge queues in the evening or simply going
hungry. Similarly, most shops close on German public
holidays, which are: 1st January, Good Friday to Easter
Sunday, the fifth Thursday after Easter, 1st May, Whitsun
Sunday and Monday, 3rd October, 31st October, 24th and
25th December.
• Unlike the rest of Germany, Berlin caters well to vegetari-
ans thanks to the hipster population. Meat-free restaurants
are in abundance and there’s even a vegan supermarket
on Warschauer Strasse.
• Bouncers at the bigger clubs can be merciless. When
waiting in line, try not to speak or act English too con-
spicuously. Also, it’s best to keep your group size small
(around 2-4 people), preferably with women outnumbering
men.
MEDICAL
• Germans don’t tend to self-medicate, so even for par-
acetamol you’ll have to visit a special Apotheke (look out
for the red ‘A’ sign). General pharmacies and supermar-
EMERGENCY SERVICE NUMBERS
Ambulance and fire: 112
Police: 110

5. THE BIGGER PICTURE 98 SURVIVAL GUIDE
ACCESSIBLE BERLIN
Berlin is truly a city that embraces all. Thanks to wartime bombings, cobbles
are significantly rarer than they might have been and in general the pavements
are wide and smooth-surfaced. Most crossings have drop curbs intended for
cyclists although tram lines in the tarmac can be difficult for less sturdy wheel-
chairs.
Public transport is also fairly accommodating. Crossings and station platforms
are generally grooved for the visually impaired along with the usual beeping.
Guide dogs are permitted everywhere. Usefully for the hearing impaired the
transport system relies more on signage than tannoys. Most buses have ramps
and wheelchair or buggy spaces. The trams, with the exception of the old-style
stepped ones occasionally operating in the east, are also wheelchair accessi-
ble. Train stations, too, generally have lifts, and all have maps marking those
which do, although gaps between train and platform vary irritatingly.
A good number of the major tourist attractions are fully accessible and at
some, including the Reichstag and Museuminsel, disabled visitors can skip
queues. Strangely, Alexanderplatz’s TV tower – essentially a giant lift – is an
exception. An irritating number of bars have the tiresome two-or-three steps
inside, and so, depending on your mobility, the strength of your friends and
the weight of your wheelchair, could be manageable. In summer, however, this
doesn’t matter because many have tables on the pavement. Beer gardens,
including Prater and Tiergarten’s Café am Neuen See, also tend to have ramps
if required.
Clubbing is a different matter. Just as all hours and tastes are accommodat-
ed by Berlin’s party scene, so are wheelchair users. Many of city’s biggest
venues are partially or fully wheelchair accessible, including Berghain – if you
can make it past the bouncers, the entire complex is yours to explore. Others
include Friedrichshain’s garden party About Blank, hip hop Cassiopeia, Sisy-
phos which was once a dog food factory, cheesy Matrix, techno club Tresor,
Sisyphos, non-profit Panke, and former swimming pool Prince Charles.
GERMAN PHRASES
Hello (Good Day)……...............Guten Tag
(goot-en tahk)
Good Morning……….........Guten Morgen
(goot-en morg’n)
Good Evening………............Guten Abend
(goot-en ahb’nt)
Goodbye………….........Auf Wiedersehen
(owf-veed-er zay-ern)
See you!……………………............Tschüβ
(chooss)
Please..…………………………….......Bitte
(bitt-uh)
Thank you.……………………….......Danke
(dank-uh)
Excuse me………........Entschuldigen Sie
(ehnt-shool-dih-gun zee)
How much does it cost?
Was kostet das?
(vass kost’t dass?)
Where is/are?
Wo ist/sind?
(voh ist/sind?)
I would like
Ich möchte
(ish mer-shtuh)
A beer
ein Bier
(eye’n beer)
A coffee
eine Tasse Kaffee
(eye’nuh tass-uh kaf-fay)
Water
Wasser
(vass-er)
Cheers!
Prost!
(proh-st!)
Can we have the bill?
Die Rechnung, bitte
(dee resh-noong bitt-uh)
I don’t understand
Ich verstehe nicht
(ish fair-shtay-uh nisht)
Please call a doctor
Bitte rufen Sie einen Arzt
(bitt-uh roof’n zee eye’nen artst)
Help!
Hilfe!
(hilf-uh)
Do you speak English?
Sprechen Sie Englisch?
(shpresh’n zee eng-glish)
One………………………………...........eins
(ains)
Two………………………………..........zwei
(tsvai)
Three……………………………............drei
(drai)
Four………………………………...........vier
(feer)
Five………………………………...........fünf
(funf)
PHOTO TAKEN BY CHLOE SCHLITTER
SCHÖNEBERG
PHOTO TAKEN BY KATYA PARKES
© BERLINER PILSNER

6. THE BIGGER PICTURE 1110 SURVIVAL GUIDE
8am: After settling into our digs and
grabbing a change of clothes, we’re
itching to explore the historical sites
and monuments that have shaped
Berlin’s history, so our first stop is in
the city’s central district; Mitte. But
we’re ravenous and need to fortify
ourselves before the marathon walks
and feast of culture, so we fancy
sampling the booming vegetarian and
vegan trend that has Berliners raving.
We swing by Napoljonska and soak in
the cosy atmosphere whilst munching
on fluffy spinach omelettes and blue-
berry pancakes.
9am: Now that we’re sated and
positively glowing with all those
vitamins, we decide to get going on
the must-see list. Mitte is home to the
Holocaust Memorial (p. 30), Branden-
burg Gate (p.22) and Topography of
Terror (p.31), to name but a few of the
many sights located there. We know
not to underestimate the time it takes
to cover these places; they ought to
be given the respect they deserve,
so our morning is dedicated to these
incredible, historical monuments and
sights. Today’s Berlin is shaped by
her rich history, and we feel like we
can comprehend the present a little
more when we look back at the city’s
past of oppression, anarchy, pain and
emancipation that cried out with the
voices of so many individuals.
12pm: It’s exhausting mental and
physical work scaling the many sights
in Mitte; we’re in a cultural reverie,
but our feet are tired and our souls
are in need of some greenery and an
outlook on nature via the Tiergarten
(p.49). However, comprehending
walking the miles around this lush
park is too intimidating a thought and
so we go for complete decadence…
Grabbing a drink we get on the
Horizontal Tour, where we’re biked
around the Tiergarten on a spacious
bed. It might be slovenly, but we can’t
deny that we feel like royalty as we’re
wheeled around the many beautiful
gardens and fountains.
1pm: After reluctantly re-joining a re-
ality where limbs must be used, we’re
peckish and could do with a snack.
Luckily, we’re right by Café am Neuen
See (p.62) and can spy a lakeside
bench with our name on it. Grabbing
a beer and splendid freshly baked
pizza, we watch families and couples
row out on the lake and savour the
idyllic quiet.
2pm: Hmm, too much quiet- more
action! Searching to see what else
the city has to offer, we decide to get
the S-Bahn ring route of S41. First off
we stop at Tempelhof Park; originally
an airport and now a vast recreation-
al area, where Berliners bike, skate,
hang-glide and even indulge in a spot
of sunset yoga.
3pm: Back on the S-Bahn and a
few stops on we find ourselves in
Schöneberg. Chic and hip without too
much hustle and bustle, we peruse
little boutiques and second-hand vin-
tage clothes shops, farmer’s markets
and find it a tough job to choose be-
tween each exquisite little café for a
pick-me-up. We decide on Lula café;
a veritable green and white haven
of plants and fresh produce for an
espresso and tasty avocado wrap.
5pm: Having aptly explored the sub-
tler, nuanced sides of Berlin, we’re
hankering after some of the grit and
gutsiness that the city is famous for,
so we decide to check out the East
Side Gallery. Sprawling along the
river, we marvel at the concrete can-
vases of rebellion and vibrancy that
marked the end of Berlin’s oppression
24 HOURS IN BERLIN
SO, BERLIN, WE FINALLY GOT OFF OUR LAZY BACKSIDES, BOOKED THAT
TICKET AND NOW WE’RE HERE!
FELICITY EDWARDS
and outcry for expression. It’s truly a
sight like no other and we’re humbled
to gaze upon the work of such great
individuals.
6pm: We spied an interesting looking
bar/beach instalment on the way to
Eastside, so we decide to investigate
and grab a quick drink. What we
find is Captain’s Beach; equipped
with fine sands and deckchairs, it’s
a pleasant riverside stop and god
knows we needed those cocktails.
7pm: Hunger strikes again, so we
decide on a trip to Gugelhof in Pren-
zlauer Berg for some traditional Ger-
man cuisine. This rustic restaurant is
reasonably priced with hearty fare; a
highlight is pork knuckle- Berlin style,
which we gratefully devour with sau-
erkraut and an excellent white wine.
9pm: Suitably stuffed with delicious
meats and carbohydrates, it’s time to
hot-foot it back to Kreuzberg to try out
one of the more underground scenes
in Berlin to get ourselves in the mind-
set for the nightlife revelry later on.
Seen as one of the last true anarchist
locations in Berlin, Köepi 137 is home
to a sprawling squatter colony. Hous-
ing art workshops, a rock climbing
wall, underground cinema, bar and
outside bonfire, it’s a fascinating ex-
pedition. We end up catching one of
their free films and afterwards drink in
the authentic scene as we chill by the
fire, chatting to some of the locals.
11pm: After this action packed (and
admittedly sweaty) day, we’re desper-
ately in need of a quick shower and
change of outfit before we head out
to Rosis bar for a pre-club drink. This
is one of Berlin’s most popular LGBT
hotspots, and as we sip our G&Ts we
marvel at the lurid furry pink walls and
buzzing vibe, as locals pack them-
selves into this tiny, intimate bar.
12am: Berlin nightlife- we’re ready for you! First on the agenda is Suicide Cir-
cus. Dressed casual chic, our hearts are beating as the bouncer casts an eye
over our suitability, but then we’re in! Navigating through the dimly lit build-
ing we locate the main stage for some of the best music the city has to offer.
Letting our inhibitions go, we go wild with the crowd and lose ourselves in the
beats of techno and bass that resonate throughout the city.
2am: Think it’s ready to head back and have a nice cup of tea? Not a chance;
this is Berlin! 3am is practically early, those shots have given us dutch courage
and we fancy a challenge. We decide on Kater Blau- a club that is no mean
feat to get into. This city seems to play a game with club entry standards, and
figuring out the kinks is one of the best parts; we’re not going to let ourselves
get disheartened. Unlike the necessary monochrome and melancholy attire
that gets a Berghain bouncer’s smirk slightly lessened, Kater seems to ap-
prove colour and an upbeat vibe. After assuring the bouncer of our excitement
we’re let into an adult’s Disneyland of fairy lights, rope nets, intimate treetop
rooms housing DJ’s mixing opera with techno, rap with bass and a cocoon
you can climb up into. This is hedonistic ill-lit debauchery and escapism at its
best. Everyone is enjoying themselves, but there are no fights, no drama; just
respect for each other. They say it’s easy to lose yourself in Berlin, and we did
in Kater. For er, 5 hours… No regrets.
7am: We finally call time on the depravity and, falling onto the street, squinting
like new-born rodents, but less sleek, we need a hungover breakfast and now.
Getting a taxi back to Mitte, (near our digs) we dig into cream cheese ome-
lettes at Luigi Zuckerman’s and finally start to feel human again.
9am: After our tentatively yet sloppily eaten breakfast it’s time to return to our
digs and catch a few hours of precious sleep before we depart, and as we lay
our spinning heads down on the pillows, it’s time for a minute of reflection.
UPON ARRIVING, WE CAN IMMEDIATELY SEE THE MYRIAD OF COLOURS AND FLAVOURS IN THE GRAFFITI,
ARCHITECTURE, MUSIC AND PEOPLE THAT THIS PART OF EUROPE IS FAMOUS FOR. STILL, TIME IS SCARCE; IN
FACT WE ONLY HAVE 24 HOURS! IT’S 6AM- (YEAH, WE LIKE A CHEAP FLIGHT) AND THE SUNRISE IS TEASING THE
CITY SKYLINE. HOW MUCH CAN WE FIT INTO A SINGLE DAY? WELL, WE RELISH A CHALLENGE AND ALREADY
BERLIN’S BUZZ IS INFECTIOUS. LET’S GO.
BERLIN is a crazy, won-
derful, historical city that
has somehow embodied
a paradox of structured
hedonism. Their power
source is freedom of ex-
pression and more impor-
tantly respect. We can’t do
it justice; you must experi-
ence the city for yourself,
but until next time, perhaps
it’s best let Robert Mont-
gomery sum it up for us;
“The city is wilder than
you think and kinder than
you think. It is a valley and
you are a horse in it. It is a
house and you are a child
in it safe and warm here in
the fire of each other”.
See you soon, Berlin.
It won’t be long.
“
“

7. THE BIGGER PICTURE 1312 NEIGHBOURHOODS
NEUKÖLLN FRIEDRICHSHAIN
& KREUZBERG
MITTE
Over the last few years this neigh-
bourhood has been transformed from
poor and rough to emerging and
trendy. After housing prices in Kreuz-
berg rocketed to levels of Prenzlauer
Berg, international creative types
started to arrive in their flocks, grad-
ually increasing the area’s volume of
bars, galleries, clubs and small busi-
nesses. You’ll find a multicultural at-
mosphere all across the district, and
so far Neukölln is definitely one of the
less touristy parts of Berlin. A thriv-
ing vibe can be found in Karl-Marx-
Straβe as you come across large
department stores, little boutiques,
Turkish markets and vintage shops.
The hidden Klunerkranich rooftop bar
has potentially the best view in Berlin,
and the nearby Music Café Kunst is
definitely worth checking out, featur-
ing live music by local artists every
Wednesday (p.) Beautiful churches,
cafes, vintage shops and theatres
are dotted around the area, creating
a feast of culture. If you want to get
away from it all then why not have
a picnic or bike ride in Tempelhofer
Park, a former historic airport convert-
ed into the city’s largest public park,
or take a stroll along one of the many
canal paths.
Though classed as one borough,
Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg are
in fact two separate districts, each
with their own very distinct look and
atmosphere. This is perhaps mostly
accountable to the fact that the Berlin
Wall used to run between the two:
Friedrichshain was in East Berlin,
Kreuzberg was in West Berlin. Com-
bined, the area is often dubbed the
‘creative heart’ of the city, as well as
the ‘hipster’ capital of the world.
Friedrichshain has recently under-
gone a vast amount of gentrification.
Following Germany’s reunification in
1991, it developed a trendy reputation
due to cheap rent and free space
which attracted a lot of students and
creative types. Over time it has be-
come more developed and commer-
cial, yet is still a great place to learn
about authentic Berlin culture at plac-
es such as the East Side Gallery and
Karl-Marx-Allee. Hedonistic nightlife
thrives in this district and most major
clubs are found here, such as ://about
blank, Salon Zir Wilden Renate and
Suicide Circus to name just a few.
Kreuzberg (known locally as X-Berg)
is notorious for its alternative scene,
youth culture and large Turkish com-
munity. Despite its underground and
edgy vibe, it is home to some tourist
attractions like the Judisches Museum
and Berlinische Galerie. It’s still best
known for its nightlife and music –
electronic music and punk rock dom-
inate the bars and clubs – as well as
great vintage shops and international
food scene. Watering hole Badeschiff
can be found floating along the river,
whilst the Turkenmarkt and Club der
Visionäre can be found along the
picturesque canal that runs through
the district. X’Berg is the most multi-
cultural area of the city and is where
the Karnival der Kulturen (Carnival of
Cultures) takes place every May.
FELICITY EDWARDS
SHAADI KHOSHRAVI-RAD
JOANNA COLLINS
Mitte, the geographical centre of
Berlin, is also the city’s historical
heart. Although severely damaged by
bombs, the cultural hub has been lov-
ingly restored to the grandeur you wit-
ness today. This is the best area for
learning about the history of the city,
although it’s lacking the bizarre enter-
tainment, creative energy and, most
importantly, locals, which you’ll find
in the other districts. The GDR-relic
filled Alexanderplatz represents the
Eastern border of the district, which
extends to the Tiergarten in the West,
Berlin’s ‘central park’. Between the
two is the central boulevard of Unter
den Linden, on which you can pass
centuries-old buildings, museums
and monuments like the Brandenburg
Gate and the neighbouring Memorial
to the Murdered Jews of Europe.
Bordered by the River Spree, Mu-
seum Island is in the Eastern side,
where you can marvel at the Berliner
Dom, or continue to the charming his-
torical quarter Nikolaiviertel. We also
recommend visiting Bebelplatz, one
of the major sites of the Nazi’s infa-
mous book burnings, which is home
to the striking buildings of Hedwig-
skathedrale and the Staatsoper,with
Neue Wache just across the road.
The area is best explored on foot, and
venturing only a few minutes from the
Unter den Linden boulevard will bring
you to romantic squares like Gendar-
menmarkt and futuristic entertainment
areas like Postdamer Platz. Whether
it’s world-class museums, upmarket
shopping or gazing at architecture,
we guarantee you’ll find something
that interests you here. There are
simply too many sites of interest to
include them all here, so why not look
at our review of the 100/200 bus tour,
which will guide you through the ma-
jority of the district’s main sights. We
recommend spending at least one full
day exploring Mitte.
NEIGHBOURHOODS IN BERLIN
PRENZLAUER BERG
KATYA PARKES
Modern Prenzlauer Berg is a stomp-
ing ground for young families and
well-off southern Germans seeking
the grit and glamour of the capital.
Once home to Berlin’s alternative
scene, nowadays mothers strolling
with pushchairs outnumber angry po-
litical protests, but the district exerted
a strong influence in the city after the
wall fell. With a truly continental feel,
boulevards of pre-war buildings now
play host to quirky boutiques, inter-
national cuisine and outlandish bars.
Berlin’s oldest beer garden The Prater
can be found here, as well as the
multi-purpose Kulturbrauerei complex
which features bars, theatres, cine-
mas, restaurants, cafes and shops
in a former brewery. If you happen to
find yourself strolling through the dis-
trict on a Sunday, head to Mauerpark
to rummage through treasures at the
flea market or maybe even belt out a
tune in the Bearpit Karaoke. Though
Prenzlauer Berg is definitely on the
move, a reminder of its history will for-
ever be present, with the Berlin Wall
Memorial standing sombrely within
the district’s realm.
You’ll be able to indulge in the es-
sence of what Prenzlauer Berg has
to offer, all within the space of a few
hours.
PHOTO TAKEN BY CHLOE SCHLITTER
PRENZLAUER BERG - ACKERSTRAßE
CITY WEST OUTER
DANIEL ANGELINI
The districts of Charlottenburg,
Schöneberg and Kurfürstendamm
are collectively known as City West.
Home to some of the poshest parts of
the city, this area is best for shopping,
fine dining and reminding yourself
that you’re in a European capital. The
grand boulevard of Kurfürstendamm
is Berlin’s Champs d’Elysees, full of
majestic old buildings and eye-wa-
teringly expensive fashion outlets
like the KaDeWe department store.
The Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church
and pleasant Café im Literaturhaus
are located here. Schöneberg is
the thriving LGBT hub of Berlin, an
uncommercial area more interested
in culture and self-expression than
consumerism. David Bowie recorded
his famous ‘Berlin trilogy’ of albums
here, and the streets are covered in
elaborate graffiti. The famous Olympic
Stadium is located near Charlotten-
burg, which is definitely worth a visit
for the Charlottenburg Palace and
Gardens.
CHRISTINA LEWIS
Outer Berlin is not an official district,
but rather refers to the neighbour-
hoods on the outskirts of the city,
which are home to some worthy
sightseeing and experiences. Ex-
pect a more relaxed, quiet vibe while
exploring these areas. In the far
West it’s possible to sunbathe on the
beach at Europe’s largest inland lido
Strandbad Wannsee, or get back to
nature in the Grünewald forest where
Teufelsberg is located. Catch some
fresh air in the far East at Müggelsee,
the largest of Berlin’s lakes. If you
want to get out of the city for a day
then head to Potsdam in Branden-
burg, where you can spend the day at
Sanssoucci Park; the former summer
palace complex of Frederick the
Great. For a sombre yet educational
day out, Sachsenhausen Concentra-
tion Camp is accessible from Ora-
nienburg S-Bahn just north of the city.
PHOTO TAKEN BY SHAADI KHOSHRAVI-RAD
BRANDENBURG GATE

8. THE BIGGER PICTURE 1514 ACCOMODATION
ACCOMMODATION
BERLIN IS RELATIVELY CHEAP WHEN COMPARED TO OTHER EUROPEAN CAPITALS,
MEANING THERE IS AN ABUNDANCE OF ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS TO SUIT
EVERYONE’S TASTE AND BUDGET.
TOM RODWELL
THE CAT’S PAJAMA’S HOSTEL
NEUKÖLLN
YUK-YU CHUNG
The Cat’s Pajamas Hostel is equipped with modern-style wooden furnishings
and located between Kreuzberg and Neukölln. This hostel is just five minutes
walking distance to the U7/U8 Hermannplatz, making it easy for guests to
reach the central part of Berlin. It is also surrounded by various cheap but deli-
cious foods. If you want to have a drink in bar but do not want to go too far, you
can go to Weserstraße at nights. This hostel fits travelers from a female to a
family with limited budget by providing single rooms as well as the option of a
bed in a two to eight bed mixed or female dorm. Their big, open, spacious and
fully equipped kitchen with big refrigerators is free to use. If you are too lazy to
prepare your own meals, the breakfast buffet is just under five euros, which is
cheap compared to other hostels in Berlin. WiFi and tea is always ready and
free for you to use at any time. Be warned however, as there is no washing
machine. Also, it is strongly recommended that you do not use your own lock
pads as the lockers are easily broken into. The best is to borrow the hostel’s
lock pads and to lock valuable belongings in the lockers next to reception.
The Cat’s Pajamas Hostel // € 15-60 // open daily 24h // Hermannplatz (U7, U8)
// Urbanstraße 84 // thecatspajamashostel.com
Hotels range from basic 1-star beds
to luxury, featuring familiar names
such as Holiday Inn and Marriott. The
relatively affordable 4-star Park Inn
by Radisson at Alexanderplatz is the
city’s tallest hotel with a killer view.
Live like a local at a Bed and Break-
fast, or why not crash in someone’s
lounge through www.couchsurfing.
com. There are even campsites within
the city’s limits, like Central Camping
Berlin (though it’s not central), if you
prefer nylon walls. If you’re travelling
solo or simply like to save money and
meet other travelers, hostel options
are limitless. Whether you’re after
industrial-chic, former homes or con-
cept hostels, Berlin has it all. We’ve
reviewed two affordable hostels here,
but search the net for endless brows-
ing.
The city’s ever-increasing popularity
as a tourist destination has forced
rent prices to skyrocket, reaching un-
affordable levels for locals. Because
of this, the Berlin government has
introduced new laws which penalize
property owners if they offer to rent
more than half of their property. How-
ever, hundreds of owners choosing to
ignore these regulations and numer-
ous AirBnb rentals are still available
in the city. As a tourist you’re unlikely
to be in trouble for staying in one of
these locations, but use the service
with caution to make sure you’re not
supporting owners who are illegally
renting and furthering the rent crisis.
PFEFFERBETT HOSTEL
PRENZLAUER BERG
YUK-YU CHUNG
If you are looking for a hostel which is full of history with a modern interior, then
choose to stay at Pfefferbett Hostel. It is housed in a former brewery with 19th
century industrial architecture and located on the historic grounds of the in-
dustrial monument “Pfefferberg”. “Pfeffer” is the German word for pepper, but
in this case it actually refers to Joseph Pfeffer, the Master Brewer who founded
the brewery in 1842. According to their claim, the hostel is a non-profit integra-
tion company providing jobs opportunities to people with disabilities. This is a
pet friendly and gay friendly hostel with free WiFi, laundry service and a gar-
den. Their reception and bar are 24 hours. They welcome stag and hen parties
in the hostel. In the lobby, there is a big screen to show all sport events. In the
summer, live football matches are shown outside in the garden. The hostel is
very close to the U-Bahn station Senefelderplatz with short walk from many
clubs, bars and restaurants in Prenzlauer Berg. Popular locations such as Mu-
seum Island and Hackescher Markt are only a 20-minute walk away.
Pfefferbett Hostel Berlin // €18-90 // open daily 24h // Senefelderplatz (U2) //
Christinenstrasse 18, Prenzlauer Berg // www.pfefferbett.de/en/home.html
PUBLIC TRANSPORT IN
BERLINTOM RODWELL
GETTING INTO BERLIN
AIR TRAVEL
There are currently two international
airports servicing the city, Ber-
lin-Tegel Airport (TXL) in the North-
West and Berlin-Schonefeld Airport
(SXF) in the South-East. Both airports
are served by a variety of low-cost
airlines and are within easy reach of
the city centre by public transport. For
years the Berlin Brandenburg Airport
has been under construction next to
the existing Berlin-Schonefeld Air-
port. It was first scheduled to open in
2012, although constant delays have
pushed back its estimated opening
date until late 2017. After this airport
opens, the current two will close down
and all air traffic will move to the new
airport.
BERLIN-TEGEL AIRPORT
The TXL express bus runs every 10
minutes and connects Tegel Airport
to Alexanderplatz (2.70 tariff AB)
in 40 minutes. The bus travels via
Hauptbahnhof (main train station), the
Brandenburg Gate and Unter Den
Linden, with an estimated journey
time of 30 minutes for these stops.
The closest U-Bahn station to Tegel
Airport is Jakob-Kaiser-Platz and can
be reached by bus X9. The U7 line
makes Schoneberg and Kreuzberg
easily accessible from this station.
The X9 also connects Tegel to the
nearest S-Bahn station Jungfern-
heide, where it’s possible to access
every inner-city district of Berlin using
the circular Ringbahn line (S41/42). If
you are travelling to Tegel Airport to
take an onward flight, make sure you
use the aforementioned bus servic-
es and don’t get confused between
the airport and Tegel S-Bahn station,
which isn’t connected to the airport,
but rather to the suburban village
called Tegel. It’s not possible to walk
or easily get transport to the airport
from here.
BERLIN-SCHONEFELD AIRPORT
It’s possible to take Regional Airport
Express trains RE7 and RB14 from
the Flughafen Berlin-Schonefeld train
station at the airport, which take only
30 minutes to reach the city centre
and run twice hourly. It’s also possible
to take S-Bahn line S9 to Ostkreuz
(30 mins) or Schonhauser Allee (45
mins) from the station. These trains
take slightly longer than the regional
trains, but run every 20 minutes (until
1:30am) and are more useful if you’re
travelling to Friedrichshain/East Cen-
tral areas. A single ticket costs 3.20
euros one way (ABC zone tariff).
LAND TRAVEL – TRAIN & BUS
Berlin Hauptbahnhof is the city’s
main train station and is served by
ICE, InterCity and EuroCity trains. It’s
possible to travel to all major cities
in Germany from Hauptbahnhof, as
well as other major European cities
such as Amsterdam, Prague, Vienna,
Warsaw and Budapest. This makes
incorporating Berlin as part of a
longer inter-rail trip extremely easily.
We strongly recommend booking in
advance through www.db.de to find
the cheapest tickets and to reserve
your seat, as these routes are popular
with backpackers. Other large train
stations within Berlin are Zoologischer
Garten in City West, Ostbahnhof in
the East and Sudkreuz in the south.
The regional RER trains also stop at
these stations and can be used to
travel to locations in outer-city dis-
tricts. Tickets for train travel within
Berlin can be purchased at the main
stations and there’s no need for res-
ervations.
The Central Bus Terminal in Charlot-
tenburg (Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof)
is reachable from over 350 European
destinations and is often the cheap-
est way to arrive from other German
cities. The nearest S-Bahn station is
Messe Nord/ICC (S46/S41/S42 Ring-
bahn), which is connected to U-Bahn
station Kaiserdamm (U2). The Theo-
dor-Heuss-Platz U-Bahn Station (U2)
is equally close by.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT – HOW IT
WORKS
Berlin has an extensive public
transport system operated by BVG,
consisting of a suburban and under-
ground train network (S & U-Bahn),
regional trains, trams and buses. It
is possible to access everywhere in
the city by public transport, which
is mostly efficient and reliable. It’s
an open system, meaning that there
PHOTO TAKEN BY YUK-YU CHUNG
THE CAT’S PYJAMA’S HOSTEL
PHOTO TAKEN BY YUK-YU CHUNG
U BAHNHOF NOLLENDORFPLATZ

9. THE BIGGER PICTURE 1716 PUBLIC TRANSPORT
are no turnstiles to limit access at
train stations and on trams/metro
buses. This means that you could
not pay for a ticket and still get on a
train. However, do not use this as an
opportunity to avoid buying a ticket,
as random checks are carried out
on public transport by not-so-friendly
ticket staff. The €60 fine will hit your
wallet hard and there’s no avoiding it
because the transport authorities are
allowed to collect any unpaid fees
at jurisdictions abroad (such as in
the UK and USA), as well as charg-
ing you the additional lawyers’ and
courts’ fees. Equally as important as
purchasing your ticket is validating
your ticket, which can be done using
the machines on the S & U-Bahn
platforms or in the bus. The machine
prints a time stamp onto the ticket,
from which it will be valid for two
hours if it is a single journey. If you
have bought a day/week/month pass
then you do not need to validate your
ticket again for the duration of the
ticket’s validity.
Check the Berlin route planner at
www.BVG.de to work out the most ef-
ficient route to your destination. There
are also excellent maps and sched-
ules available as well as an extensive
list of fares. These are organised with-
in a zone system (ABC), but you are
unlikely to need to go beyond zone
A and B as this covers all inner-city
and outer-city districts, except on
trips to Potsdam, Saschenhausen
Concentration Camp or Schönefeld
Airport (SXF). Tickets are not specific
to a particular method of transport –
the whole public transport system (S
& U-Bahn, bus, tram, regional rail)
is covered with one ticket and you
can travel on any of these forms with
a valid ticket. The S & U-Bahn run
24hrs on the weekend, but otherwise
operate from 4am until 12:30am. Most
trams and buses run 24/7, however
be aware that some change their
route at night.
Etiquette is important when riding
public transport. Like in many other
major cities, people don’t generally
tend to talk to one another or make
prolonged eye contact whilst on
trains, buses and trams in Berlin. This
is not meant in a rude way. In fact, it
is important to be polite and always
let other passengers disembark first
before you board. If you’re lucky you
might have buskers join your carriage
to play, providing a few minutes of
music and entertainment during your
journey. Homeless people also often
join transport carriages asking for
money, which you can give at your
discretion but do not feel pressured.
TICKETS
Standard single journey tickets (€2.70 for zones AB) are valid for any travel
within two hours of validation within
the appropriate fare zones. If you’re
only travelling for up to 3 stops on the
S/U-Bahn, or up to 6 stops by bus
or tram, then you can buy a cheaper
short journey ticket (Kurzstrecke) for
€1.50. If you’re likely to use public
transport several times each day,
then it’s more cost effective to buy a
day travelcard (Tageskarte), which
costs €6.90 for zones AB. If you’ll
be in Berlin for 5 days or more, then
it would be better to buy a 7-day
travelcard (7-Tage-Karte) for €29.50
zones AB or a month travelcard
(Monteskarte) for €81 zones AB. If
you wish to travel to zone C, you can
purchase an extension ticket (An-
schlussfahrausweis) for €1.60 each
way. This is usually more cost effec-
tive than purchasing a zones ABC
travelcard, as it’s unlikely that you will
need to travel into zone C a lot. Group
day passes (Kleingruppenkarte) for
up to 5 people travelling together cost
€16.90 zones AB.
Tickets are available at vending
machines at S & U-Bahn stations, on
trams, from bus drivers and at station
offices, but be aware that payment is
cash only on buses and trams. Eng-
lish and other European languages
are available at vending machines.
TYPES OF TRANSPORT
The S-Bahn is a light rail network
of suburban trains, mostly above
ground. These lines have fewer stops
than the U-Bahn and travel longer
distances, making it the quickest way
to travel between different districts.
Most lines run from west to east or
north to south, except for the circular
Ringbahn line (S41/42), which trav-
els around central Berlin in a circle,
allowing you to access all inner-city
districts.
The U-Bahn is Berlin’s metro system,
a network of underground trains that’s
usually the fastest way to get around
inner-city locations. These lines travel
in all directions and many stations are
linked with S-Bahn lines to provide
quick, efficient connections. Most
lines are found in the former West,
though some terminate in the East.
The trams (Straßenbahn) are mostly
found in East Berlin nowadays, as the
tram lines in the West were removed.
This is a useful form of transport to
reach locations that are not near an
S or U-Bahn station, though they not
as fast as the trains and tend to make
a lot of stops. Metro Tram lines are
distinguished by putting the letter M
before the tram number, which means
they are more frequent than other
trams and run 24/7, whilst the normal
trams do not. If you don’t have a ticket
already, you can buy one inside the
tram.
Buses are generally the slowest form
of public transport and aren’t particu-
larly useful for getting around, but
they can take you to almost anywhere
in Berlin. If it’s possible to get an S or
U-Bahn line to your destination then
we recommend using that instead.
The only exception to this is the
famous 100/200 bus route, which has
become the unintentional sightseeing
bus of Berlin as it passes most major
landmarks (see page ?? for review).
Taxi services, while still more expen-
sive than public transport, are also
easy to use and a bit less expensive
than in other major European cities.
Generally speaking, most drivers are
able to speak basic English, but it’s
best to know a bit of German and
have the full address of your destina-
tion. If you ask for a short trip (Kurzs-
trecke), up to 2km and before the taxi
driver starts the meter running, the
trip will be €4. This is a great way to
travel a short distance, or part of the
way to your destination. However,
this only applies if you hail a taxi, not
if you get in at a taxi rank. Also, the
international taxi app Uber operates
in Berlin and provides an excellent
standard of service. Booking and
payment is done through the app so
there’s no need to tip your driver.
Berlin is very cyclist-friendly and the
terrain of the city is mostly flat, with
few steep hills. Most streets are very
wide and offer cycle paths through-
out the city, although there are also
separate off-road cycle paths. This
is a great way to get to know the city
although there are also separate
off-road cycle paths. This is a great
way to get to know the city whilst
being environmentally friendly. Rental
shops are available throughout the
city, although the prices vary con-
siderably. Most shops in the central
districts offer full day rental for €8-12,
however we thoroughly recommend
Rent A Bike 44 in Neukolln, where it’s
possible to rent a bike for €4 for the
whole day. The shop is conveniently
located a stone’s throw away from
the ginormous Tempelhofer Park (see
page blah), which is an excellent
place to spend an afternoon cycling
around. Be careful to avoid car traffic
and pedestrians when cycling around
the city, the latter often presenting the
bigger danger as tourists unknowing-
ly stray into cycle paths. Don’t expect
them to realise this or move out of
your way, instead think of an alterna-
tive route around them.
PHOTO TAKEN BY YUK-YU CHUNG
U BAHNHOF NOLLENDORFPLATZ
PHOTO TAKEN BY YUK-YU CHUNG
U BAHNHOF NOLLENDORFPLATZ

10. SIGHTSEEING
It would take months to see all of the many sights that Berlin has to offer - there are even some residents
who have lived here for years that still haven’t seen them all! So, we’ve picked some of the best places to
visit during your stay and included handy tips, historical facts, why they’re so popular with tourists and, for
those really pressed for time, a quick way of checking out many of the must-see stops in one day with the
100/200 bus tour.
PHOTO TAKEN BY TOM RODWELL
TV TOWER