Denim Club Newsletter : Issue May 21, 2014

Latest Denim News & Updates from Across the Globe
Your Window To The World Of Denim
Newsletter
21 May 2014
www.denimclubindia.org
Innovative New Color
Effects by Archroma at
Denim by Premiere Vision
Denim Industry Who’s Who
Mr. Rahul Mehta, CMAI, India
Mr. Rajiv Dayal, Mafatlal Industries Ltd., India
Being Human
Launches
‘Denim fever’
collection
Glut squeezes margins
of denim manufacturers
Designer
Eco-friendly jeans
Events
Denim by
Premiere Vision, Spain
Pg No. 3
Arvind Ltd
Q4 net up 11.49%
Show Preview :
Global denim research
findings revealed
by Invista
Blue Jeans Patented
May 20, 1873

Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim
Apparel - Collection
May 2014 03
Source: Fibre2fashion.com
DENIM CLUB INDIA
For summer 2014, Being Human Clothing
introduces Denim Fever - the biggest trend of the
season, the range includes ultra-soft washed
denim shirts in light weight fabrics and light
jeans, to beat the heat in style.
Leaving behind winter’s dominating dark hues;
this season denim is dominating like never
before. The ‘blue deeper than indigo’ collection
of denim wear range by Being Human Clothing is
available in multiple wash options and designs.
The collection also includes shirts in every
shade of blue, roll up sleeves shirt, t-shirts with
denim detailing, printed shorts and much more
and feeds every need for summery denim look.
Jeans for men and women is one of Being
Human Clothing’s most loved products and this
season it is available in completely washed out
and distressed versions to crisp raw wash
options; there is something for everyone with
multiple fit options.
Being Human Launches
‘Denim fever’ collection
Ditch the dark hues for the light shades of denims
this summer and if dark is the choice one can still
indulge in some extravagant options at Being
Human Clothing. Team up the stylish and new
“boyfriend fit” denims with a cool pin-stripped
shirt to have the spring days covered. And don’t
forget to roll up the legs; just to add some
nonchalance.
The collection can be styled in any look one
prefers! From denim on denim to a humble t-shirt
inside the denim shirt, one can experiment this
trendy fabric with any style one likes. Sport a
formal look or head out for an evening of fun, or
just have a relaxed sunny day. Keep it clean with
a pair of undamaged dark jeans for Fridays at
work or an evening soiree. The Spring Summer
14 collection has got the denim wardrobe
covered this season.
Image Source: Beinghuman.com
Image Source: Beinghuman.com
Website : www.beinghumanclothing.com

Apparel - Research
May 2014 04DENIM CLUB INDIA
Global denim research findings
revealed by Invista
INVISTA unveiled a
summary of the
results from its
Global Men’s Denim
Study at the first European Kingpins Show held
at Amsterdam last week. The study covered
consumer insights from over 3,000 male
participants in Germany, Italy, India, China, the
U.S. and Brazil and was conducted by ICM
Research out of the U.K.
The study was designed to better understand
men’s purchase preferences related to denim
and covered topics such as the key attributes
men look for in jeans, how satisfied they are with
current offerings, and where they get
information about jeans. Top line results showed
that the two most important attributes that men
were seeking were ‘fit’ and ‘comfort’, yet 30% of
participants felt current jeans offerings did not
fully meet their expectations in these two areas.
In the area of thermal comfort, over 80% of
participants said they would be interested in
jeans that would help them stay cool and dry in
the summer or warm and dry in the winter. Yet
less than 35% of participants felt current
consumer selections addressed these needs.
Out of a variety of commercial fabric brand
names, the most preferred for a summer jean
concept was the COOLMAX brand while the
most preferred for the warm and dry concept
was theTHERMOLITE brand.
As per Jean Hegedus, INVISTA’s Global Denim
Segment Director, the results reflect the
consumer’s desire for performance clothing that
can meet a variety of needs. “Today’s time
starved consumers want garments that can
simplify their lives and allow them to look good
and feel comfortable under different
circumstances,” Hegedus said. “Offerings like
COOLMAX and THERMOLITE fabrics can help
brands and retailers achieve this goal.”
Reflecting a consumer shift from traditional to
social channels of commerce, the survey
showed that across all countries the internet was
the most preferred source for information about
jeans, followed by ‘friends.’
The results were presented by INVISTA at a
seminar on May 7th at the first ever Kingpins
Show in Europe.
“This is the 29th Kingpins show INVISTA has
sponsored and once again it has been a great
success”, said Ebru Pirinccioglu, INVISTA
Outerwear Marketing Segment Manager for
EMEA. “Since the Dutch own more jeans per
capita than people in any other country,
Amsterdam provided us with the perfect location
to showcase our innovations in denim, from our
LYCRA dualFX technology for super-stretch
garments that keep their shape, to thermal
concepts such as our COOLMAX ALL SEASON
and THERMOLITE technologies, and durable
options such asTOUGH MAX LYCRAfabrics.”
To highlight the benefits of its denim offerings,
INVISTA commissioned a street dance team to
perform in jeans made with their innovations
during the Kingpins after-party. The high energy
show was enthusiastically received by the crowd
and highlighted the freedom of movement and
other functional advantages that INVISTA fibres
can bring to denim
Source: Fibre2fashion.com

Dyestuff - Sustainable Fashion
May 2014 05DENIM CLUB INDIA
Innovative New Color Effects
by Archroma at Denim by Premiere Vision
Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty
chemicals, and the former textile, paper and
emulsions businesses of Clariant, is looking to
secure a home-win at this year’s Denim by
Premiere Vision (DPV) in Barcelona with its
amazing new effects for jeans that stand-out
from the crowd.
Barcelona is home to Archroma’s Global Denim
Center and On May 21-22, at Denim By PV, its
specialists will share their extensive expertise in
ever more sustainable denim dyeing and color
management, with the denim community,
retailers and brand owners. Visitors to Booth
B03 can look forward to garment collections and
prototypes highlighting the potential of
Archroma’s new technologies for more
sustainable and exciting fashion and results.
Bring out the hidden color of your jeans: A
capsule collection of jeans will capture a highly-
innovative new way for designers to play around
with wash-down techniques to apply
spectacular “local” effects and contrasts. The
eye-catching results are achieved by combining
Archroma’s new Optisul® C sulfur dyes –
affinity-free sulfide-free dyes, suitable for GOTS
and bluesign® approval – with select Printofix®
Tpigments.
Great casual collections made easy and
sustainably: A collection of Chinos with high
versatility in wash-down effects. Optisul® C
dyes allow easier application than current
techniques. Their use in a Pad-Dry/Pad-Dry
process makes woven fabric dyeing with almost
zero water consumption a real possibility.
New way to color finishes: With Optisul® C
liquid dyes, Archroma presents a new option to
combine resins and dyes to create touches and
finishes without compromising the casual final
look. This new alternative for coloring finishings
is especially suitable for “local” chemical wash-
downs allowing to create more natural look than
conventional pigment coloring.
Blue garment collection alternative to indigo:
Manufactured with eco-conscious ADVANCED
DENIM technology and its Diresul® RDT
Indicolors specialties. Yarn dyeing using
Archroma’s ADVANCED DENIM technology
helps adding to the desired “sustainable touch”
with unlimited tones and shades. ADVANCED
DENIM enables water consumption to be
reduced by up to 92%, up to 87% of the usual
cotton waste can be avoided, and up to 30% can
be saved in energy costs compared to traditional
denim processes.
As ADVANCED DENIM technologies are being
adopted by more and more denim mills around
the globe, visitors will be able to see denim
articles made using the technology at booths of
important exhibitors at the show.

Industry - Outlook
DENIM CLUB INDIAMay 2014 06
Glut squeezes margins of denim manufacturers
The glut in the denim industry has been
aggravated by continued addition of capacity.
The oversupply has not only exerted price
pressure on denim mills but also forced some of
them to reduce capacity utilisation by 20-30 per
cent.
Against a capacity of 1.3 billion metres, the
domestic demand for denim is estimated to be
around 600-700 million metres, and another
200-300 million metres are exported.
The denim industry was functioning at a capacity
of close to 1 billion metres per annum around a
year ago. However, existing as well as new
players have continued to add capacities.
According to industry players denim fabric prices
recently fell by 5-7 per cent in certain categories.
he Ahmedabad-based Aarvee Denims &
Exports Ltd is now partly producing non-denim
fabric. "Our denim capacity utilisation is 70 per
cent now. There has been both price and margin
pressure due to overcapacity. We are forced to
produce 30 per cent non-denim fabric," said
Ashish Shah, the company's managing director.
Aarvee Denims, which has 85 million metres per
annum denim capacity, recently reduced prices
by 5-7 per cent in certain fabric types.
"Though we have not reduced prices yet, rising
input costs are exerting pressure. It is yet to be
seen if the pressure from rising input costs will be
borne by denim producers or consumers," says
Deepak Chiripal, CEO of Nandan Denim Ltd.
Nandan Denim is in the process of adding
capacity. From 80 million metres now, the Rs
900-crore company's denim capacity will cross
100 million metres by 2015.
Some companies have been able to insulate
themselves from glut in the domestic market by
focusing on exports. "Over 60 per cent of our
denim business comes from exports. This has
helped us maintain 100 per cent capacity
utilisation," said Jayesh Shah, director and CFO
of Arvind Ltd, which has denim capacity of over
110 million metres.
Source : Business-standard.com
Orchid tones: With
i t s t e a m o f c o l o r
management specialists
Archroma is at the
forefront of supporting
customers in choosing
the best technical recipe
and process for denim,
woven and garment
dyeing for collections
based on this year’s
color trend. Archroma
helps customers turn
technology into benefits that can be seen and
felt.
Sustainability calculator: Visitors will be able
to evaluate the potential savings of ADVANCED
DENIM using Archroma’s ONE WAY system.
ONE WAY is a 3-step systematic approach to the
selection of chemicals and production
processes.
ONE WAY was honored with the prestigious ICIS
Innovation Award for Best Business Innovation
2013, and the effectiveness of its sustainability
calculation system was confirmed in physical
tests carried out by leading machine builder
Fong’s.
Nuria Estape, Project Manager for ADVANCED
DENIM at Archroma, comments: “Archroma’s
technologies aim at helping customers to take
not only their creativity but also their
environmental responsibility to new levels. With
more than 2 billion pairs of jeans made every
year all over the world, there is room to create
with ADVANCED DENIM a much more
sustainable denim industry! With the wide
palette of tones and looks achievable through
ADVANCED DENIM, we truly honor our slogan
at the show: “We touch and color people’s lives
every day, everywhere”.
Source: Archroma.com

Apparel - Collection
Designer Eco-friendly jeans
Jeans have always been a passion
for Designer Shani Himanshu,
creative director of indie label
11.11/eleven eleven. Having
worked as a consultant with brands
like Diesel, Levi’s and Gas Jeans, it
was his experience that led him to
create a collection of handmade
denim. Created in association with
Arvind Mills, the range is completely
hand-crafted, uses very little
electricity and reinforces his firm’s
commitment to sustainable fashion.
When Shani and design partner Mia
Morikawa showcased this collection, “100%
HANDMADE” at Lakme Fashion Week in March,
the message was clear — wearing designer
denim may be hip, but donning a pair of eco-
friendly signature jeans is the epitome of cool.
“We all wear denims. I think it’s good to wear
something that’s has soul and character,” says
Shani, of the unique line that celebrates the
human touch, with its hand-spun yarn, hand-
woven textile and a hand-stitched final product.
Veteran designer Rajesh Pratap Singh has been
making denim for export for a few years now. He
married his love for khadi with denim over two
years ago, and introduced his first khadi denim
line.
What started as a partnership with Arvind
Limited is today a dedicated collection, with
Singh sourcing part of the raw material from
Arvind and spinning, weaving and dyeing the
rest at his weaving centre in Neemrana,
Rajasthan. “For us, it’s not just another fashion
product. Khadi is an individualist fabric with a lot
of history, a textile that is eco-friendly and
innately Indian. And with this handmade, no-
machine intervention line of jeans, we are
creating a pure Indian product,” says Singh.
Singh and 11.11/eleven eleven participated in a
fashion show in April, titled ‘Denim India Made’,
organised by the Denim Manufacturer’s
Association. The primary focus was on authentic
khadi denim.
“India has been manufacturing denim for
companies all over the world, according to their
specifications and needs, with nothing
intrinsically Indian in the final product. Just as
how Japanese, Italian andAmerican denim have
unique identities, we want to make something
which is originally from India,” says Rajesh
Gupta, creative head, Arvind Limited, denim
division.
Arvind is engaging with families of craftspeople
who specialise in spinning, dyeing and weaving
techniques with the support of the Khadi Board
and its many institutions. With minimal utilisation
of power in the ginning process and fewer
pollutants released thanks to the natural indigo
dyeing process, the final product is extremely
environment-friendly.
While khadi denim has found both creative and
commercial clout, individual efforts like that of
designer Deepika Govind are adding momentum
to the cause.
Govind launched her line of organic jeans
“Denim Green” in 2012, after nearly four years of
research and development. The range of hand-
woven denim, dyed in pure indigo, remains her
pet project and a testament to her commitment to
all things natural.
“It was during a stint at a huge denim
manufacturing unit in Bangalore that I noticed
that nearly 20 to 25 litres of water were wasted
per pair from the beginning of the process till it
reached the shelves,” says Govind. She chose to

Industry - Corporate
source organic cotton, use plant-based dyes,
eliminate the acid wash and weave her fabric on
the handloom. Today, Denim Green sells in
classic fits, comes with tea tree aroma wash,
anti-bacterial wash and even retails with pure
silver buttons.
Designer Samant Chauhan who, worked on a
pilot handloom denim line with the Ministry of
Textile and the Denim Club, is looking to launch
his own collection. “The handmade ideology
resonates with our brand philosophy because
handloom fabric has a very unique character,”
says Chauhan.
Like him, there are many who are discovering
romance in the variable warp and weft of hand-
spun denim. “There are effects built into the
fabric with loom stop marks and high and low of
fabric. These features only add to the texture of
the denim,” says Gupta. And it’s these
imperfections that Shani is counting on to lend
individuality to his product.
Each 100% HANDMADE khadi denim is hand-
stitched and realised by one craftsperson, who
autographs the finished garment and adds a
serial number. This kind of labour intensiveness
that adds to the price of the product and nudges it
into the premium segment. “Apart from labour
involved, there is a lot of expenditure that goes
into research and development. This time and
money could be earned back if there was a mass
movement and costs could be controlled,” says
Govind.
And while the numbers might not add up yet —
Arvind Limited manufactures nearly 9 million
metres of regular denim per month, in
comparison to just 3,000 metres of khadi denim
— this does not deter Shani and Morikawa, who
are experimenting with extra weft techniques
and are working on making khadi denim from
organic Kala Cotton. Singh is set to launch his
2014 edition of khadi denim in June.
Source: Indianexpress.com
Arvind Ltd Q4 net up 11.49%
Arvind, with its buoyant portfolio of brands, has
witnessed positive growth and reported a 11.49
percent rise in its standalone net profit for the
fourth quarter ended March 31, 2014.
The Q4 standalone net profit for the fiscal year
2013-14 rose to Rs 94.89 crores, up from Rs
85.11 crores for the corresponding period last
fiscal 2012-13.
Ahmedabad based Arvind is one of the largest
integrated textile and branded apparel players in
the country.
The company also registered a 6.5 percent
increase in its standalone revenue for the fourth
quarter at Rs 1,283.96 crores, viz a viz last
year’s Rs 1,205.36 crores.
On consolidated basis, while its Q4 net profit
rose by 24.09 percent at Rs 94.05 crores, up
from Rs 75.79 crores, its consolidated net
income registered a 5.90 percent increase at Rs
1,879.08 crores as against last year’s Rs
1,774.28 crores for the said period.
The board of directors have also recommended
a dividend of 23.5 percent for fiscal 2013-14 as
against 16.5 percent for the previous year.
The company witnessed a 38.34 percent and
26.32 percent growth in its yearly standalone net
profit and net revenue at Rs 361.39 crores and
Rs 4,775.48 crores, respectively which was Rs
261.22 crores and Rs 3,780.29 crores,
respectively for the fiscal 2012-13.
Meanwhile, on consolidated basis, the yearly net
profit of Rs 353.89 crores was up by 42.46
percent for FY ’14 as against Rs 248.41 crores.
The company’s revenues grew by 29.65 percent
at Rs 6,862.12 crores as compared to Rs
5,292.52 crores.
After acquiring a 49 percent stake in Calvin Klein
from PVH, denim fabric maker Arvind is all set to
become a billion dollars company. While on one
hand, it would help Arvind scale up its branding
business, on the other, it would also assist in
executing the long term strategy.
The company has presence in 671 retail stores,
656 departmental store counters and 1,500
multi-brand outlets, coupled with its presence
across price points and categories, which are
expected to give a considerable boost to its sales
in the next few quarters
Source: Authintmail.com

From The Denim Directory
Denim Industry Who's Who
Mr. Rajiv Dayal, Managing Director & CEO
Mafatlal Industries Ltd., India
Mr. Rajiv Dayal is a Chemical Engineer from Indian Institute of Technology,
Delhi. He has a total work experience of 35 years and prior to joining the
Arvind Mafatlal Group; he worked with Hindustan Lever Ltd., a subsidiary
of Unilever plc, for 14 years and withArvind Mills Limited for 6 years.
Mr. Dayal has a wide cross-functional experience and has worked in various capacities in
manufacturing, product development, projects and factory operations with HLL. He had
joined Arvind International (a part of the Arvind Mills Limited) in 1992 as Vice President.
Subsequently he headed the International Marketing division and became the Regional
Director of their Hong Kong operations.
Mr. Dayal joined theArvind Mafatlal Group in 1998 as the Chief Executive Officer of Mafatlal
Burlington Industries Ltd and subsequently was appointed as Managing Director & Chief
Executive Officer of Mafatlal Denim inApril, 2006.
Mr. Rajiv Dayal was appointed as the Managing Director and Chief Executive Officer of
Mafatlal Industries in May 2013.
Mr. Rahul Mehta, President
CMAI, India
Having passed his MBA from one of the most prestigious Management
Schools of India, the Bajaj Institute in 1971, he joined what was then
called Goodlass Nerolac Paints, and rose rapidly to be the India Sales
Manager by 1982 – when the Entrepreneurial bug bit him.
Mr. Mehta joined the Creative Group as Partner and Managing Director in 1982, and
launched the UFO Jeans – perhaps one of the earliest International Brands to come to India.
Today, he oversees most of the Domestic Business of the Group, such as 109F, Fusion
Beats, Portico, etc.
He is acknowledged as one of the leaders of the Domestic Garment Industry, and is
currently the President of the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI),
Chairman of the Japan India Fashion Trade Forum, Director of International Apparel
Federation, Member, Textile Committee, Govt. of India, and member of the Managing
Committee of theApparel Export Promotion Council.
He is extremely involved in Education, is Chairman, Advisory Board, School of Fashion
Technology, Pune, Vice Chairman, Institute of Apparel Management, Delhi, and on the
Board of B. D. Somani Institute of Fashion.

Events
Show Preview :
Denim by Premiere Vision, Spain
The 14th edition
of the leading
s h o w i n t h e
upstream jeans
sector, Denim by
Première Vision,
is brimming with change. Launched in Paris in
2007, the show has become the can’t-miss
meeting place for the denim community. Always
taking the initiative, faithful to its original
concept, the show settles into Barcelona as of
this season, affirming its role as an engine for
change. The venue for the show being held on
May 21 and 22, 2014, is Hall 8 of the Fira
Montjuic, in the heart of the Catalan capital.
Denim by Première Vision aims to create an
international platform for an international
industry, and address the needs of premium
denim, in search for more elaborate and
sophisticated products.
The 14th edition of the show welcomes some
100 professional exhibitors, both loyal and
newcomers: Weavers (45%), manufacturers/
launderers / finishers (23%), accessory makers
(22%), machine makers, fibre producers and
spinners, and technology developers.
Know-how, technologies and developments
from 20 producing and manufacturing countries
with high added-value numbering among the
leaders in the jeans industry - from the Euromed
zone - Turkey (31% of exhibitors), Italy (20%),
Morocco (9%) and Tunisia (3%) - to Japan,
India, Pakistan, Hong Kong and Brazil.
The Denim Trends Area : revealing the secrets
of an enigmatic autumn winter 2015-16 season
In a secret, enigmatic and playful atmosphere,
infiltrate a season rich in creativity, inspiration
and innovation. Discover exclusive fashion
information spaces, and join the game of
directions for autumn winter 2015 -16 at the
DenimTrendsArea.
The four stand-out players and guides will help
in the discovery of the season:
Ÿ The High Roller - made of softly washed
out wool and corduroy, of broken twill and
blurred effects, of knits and backs with a
brushed fleece aspect, all played in
softness and suppleness.
Ÿ The Expert bets - skilfully blue
variations, for outsized clothing in barely
washed raws, in blue/black twills, in re-
coloured selvedges.
Ÿ The Provocateur - disguised weaves,
secret pockets and hide-and-seek trims.
Plays with pretence, double faces
marked by lasers or ice, and experiments
with almost seedy-looking greasy
coatings.
Ÿ The Nimble One plays with the light of
compact and dazzling fabrics,
sometimes glazed, plasticized or
lacquered. Plays tricks with open
diagonals, sculpting and virtuously
comfortable stretch, for slim and close to
the body fits, accessorised with diamond-
like metallic points and glints.
Truth & Light by Jeanologia
The Truth & Light show highlights the new
environmentally-friendly laser-technologies for
fabrics. The space is specially designed and
outfitted to present, on one side, reality, the
TRUTH, with its vintage pieces naturally worked-
on and worn out by time, and on the other side,
the LIGHT, the laser, a real «time machine
allowing for impressive results with a hitherto
unparalleled vintage appearance.
Royolution – The Denim Revolution
Spanish weaver TEJIDOS ROYO, has
collaborated with the IED University of
Barcelona (European Institute of Design) for an
exhibition of iconic pieces from denim history,
revisited by students and created using fabric
provided by Royo. A multidisciplinary exhibition
that called on the fashion, products, decoration
and visual communications departments of the
IED, and the five finalist pieces from the project
will be presented at the show.
Source: Denimbypremierevision.com

Industry - Historical Event
Blue Jeans Patented May 20, 1873
An icon American fashion was patented on May
20, 1873, when the United States Patent and
Trademark Office issued U.S. Patent No.
139,121, titled Fastening Pocket-Openings. The
’121 patent, which was granted to Jacob W.
Davis and jointly assigned to himself and to Levi
Strauss & Company, ushered in the era of denim
blue jeans.
The ’121 patent specifically related to copper
rivet fasteners for denim trousers, which proved
to be extremely desirable and durable.
Davis, a tailor by training, revolutionized fashion
after being asked by a customer if he could
create a durable pair of trousers for her
husband, who was a woodcutter. When Davis
created these pants he used the now familiar
copper rivet fasteners. Davis charged $3 for that
first pair of jeans in 1870. See Your Denim Jeans
Are a Nevada Invention.
The durable patents with the rivets turned out to
be extremely popular, with more and more
customers asking for Davis to make them a pair
of the rivet clad durable pants. It was at this point
that David thought that he was on to something
big, which lead him to want to patent what he had
invented. In order to accomplish this he
approached Levi Strauss and ask him to partner
with him. Strauss agreed and paid the patent
fees. See Jacob Davis and the Copper-riveted
Jeans.
The patent, which included only a single
photograph and text not even amounting to a full
page, described the invention as below:
Jacob further described the invention narrowly
with an eye toward known prior art, saying:
Source: Ipwatchdog.com
[The] invention relates to a fastening
for pocket-openings, whereby the
sewed seams are prevented from ripping
or starting from frequent pressure or strain
thereon; and it consists in the employment
of a metal rivet or eyelet at each edge of
the pocket-opening, to prevent the ripping
of the seam at those points. The rivet or
eyelet is so fastened in the seam as to bind
the two parts of cloth which the seam
unites together, so that it shall prevent the
strain or pressure from coming upon the
thread with which the seam is sewed.
“
“
I am aware that rivets have been used
for securing seams in shoes, as
shown in the patents to Geo. Houghton,
No. 64,015, April 23, 1867, and to L.K.
Washburn, No. 123, 313, January 30,
1872; and hence I do not claim broadly,
fastening of seams by means of rivets.
Having thus described my invention what I
claim as new, and desire to secure by
Letters Patent, is—
As a new article of manufacture, a pair of
pantaloous having the pocket-openings
secured at each edge by means of rivets,
substantially in the manner described and
shown, whereby the seams at the points
named are prevented from ripping, as set
forth.
“
“

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Denim Club Newsletter : Issue May 21, 2014

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Denim Club Newsletter : Issue May 21, 2014