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Contents




1.   Introduction                        1

2.   Innaguration                       2

3.   About IDPMS                        3

4.   Sisal Fibre                         5

5.   Approach and Design intrevention   7

5.   Design Workshop                    8

6.   Learning in the workshop           11

7.   Products Developed                 15

8.   Participants                       25

9.   Conclusion                         27

10. Recomendations                      28

11. About Designer                      29

12. Acknowledgements.                   31
BACKGROUND:

                               The people of “Tenkal mole” and “Badagala
                               mole” Near Kuderu, Chamarajanagar Dist, are
                               mainly in to agricultural labor and in rope
                               making craft. Sisal is abundantly available in
                               the area and the people are involved in makig
                               ropes to sell in the local weekly markets.

                               These ropes are sold in bundles and are used
                               for tieing cattle , bullock cart etc. The demand
                               for sisal rope is limited and therefore the
    Badagala mole Village
                               people have started making ropes from the
                               plastic Cement bags.

                               The Bags are ripped apart in strands and then
                               the strands are spun into ropes that are
                               approximately 8mm in diameter. Four of these
                               ropes are twisted together to form a thick
                               rope.

                               In the villages, children and ladies are involved
 Ropemaking in Badagala mole   in the stripping of strands and the spinning
                               of rope is done by the men folk. This way it is
                               a good team work and at the end of the day
                               the women are able to earn Rs.15 to 25, and
                               that is how the life goes on.

                               The market now recognises the plastic rope
                               and sisal is less and less to be seen in the
                               markets.


     Ready plastic ropes
                                                                            1
INNAGURATION :
                                Mr. S.C.Devaramani, A.D. MNSEC, Mysore,
                                Mr. S.Sadananda, Director IDPMS,
                                Mr. Seshaprasad, Cluster manager IDPMS,
                                Mr. Chandrasekhar, ADS, Kuderu,
                                Mr. Honappa, ADS, Kuderu,
                                Mr. M.N.Mangalore SI &
                                Designer Mr. Rajshekhar Narayan

                                along with his team were present at the
                                inaugural function at Kuderu, Chamarajnagar
                                Dist, on 14 March 2005, at 11:30 am.

                                Mr. Devarmani spoke about the new products
                                and the opportunity to learn new things. He
                                suggested that the participants should learn
                                new skills and come up with new products.
                                He pointed out the support provided by AHVY;
 Innaguration of the workshop   a scheme for the SHG’s to generate income
                                and contribute to the economic growth.

                                Mr. S.Sadananda spoke to the participants
                                about the purpose of the design development
                                workshop and the results that are expected
                                from it. He stressed on the need for a self
                                reliance motto with in every women artisan.
                                He spoke about the various programmes taken
                                up by IDPMS , and the continual support of
                                the artisans in the entire development
                                programme . Mr. Sadananda thanked the DC
                                (H) for providing such an effective Programme
                                for the rural artisans.
                                                                          2
About IDPMS:
                         IDPMS started functioning in 1988, and it as
                         jointly established by the Govt. Of Karnataka
                         and the Govt. of Netherlands. At the time it
                         was known as Indo Dutch Project Management
                         Society. IDPMS work ed with various
                         development projects situated in Karnataka,
                         and working through these projects, the
                         organization gained experience and
                         considerable knowledge and helped into its
                         transformation into a resource organization.
                         The array of knowledge includes issues for
                         sustainable livelihood, Women empowerment,
                         Information systems, Environment and
                         conservation.

                         IDPMS which truly means Initiatives for
                         Development through Participation of
                         Marginalized Sections, is committed to the
                         economic growth of the rural poor.

                         IDPMS has been instrumental in formation of
                         Self help groups for the past 15 years. Mysore,
                         Chamarajnagar, Bellary and Bidar, Havery and
                         Gadag districts have been covered under the
                         operations.

                         5300 women involved in over 335 Self Help
                         Groups has been formed in the guidance of
                         IDPMS.
     Existing products


                                                                     3
Presently more than 200 artisans in the sisal
                    fiber craft , in and around Kuderumole in
                    Chamarajanagar Dist, have been covered
                    under this umbrella.

                      •   The current activities of IDPMS are:
                      •   Skill trainings and Design development
                          activities in the field of Handicrafts
                      •   Training programme on Micro enterprise
                          development, PRA, Personality
                          Development etc,
                      •   Guidance to Micro Enterprise,
                      •   Formation of SHG’s and their successful
                          operations,
                      •   Strengthening of the local support
                          agencies ;Gram panchayat, ngo’s etc.
                      •   Networking of SHG’s,
                      •   Establishing access to formal credit
                          organizations,
                      •   Training and orientation of banking
                          Personnel.
                      •   Market related services; linkages, up
                          scaling of enterprises operations,
                      •   Gender sensitization programme,
                      •   Technology Development and Data Bank
                          Services,
                      •   Income generation activities in craft
                          areas, and other activities.
                      •   Monitoring,Evaluation and Documentation.
Existing products     •   Councilling for enterprise activities.



                                                               4
SISAL FIBRE:

                      Agriculture is the main source of livelihood in
                      and around Kuderu.Sisal fibre is a large genius
                      of short stemmed, woody plants bearing a
                      rosette of long, erect, pointed, fleshy leaves.
                      About 275 pieces are distributed in tropical
                      regions.

                      The Portuguese introduced agave in India in
                      the 15 th century. They are completely
                      naturalized throughout the country. Sisal is
                      grown in widely in India. It is small greenish
                      gray hedge plant. The leaves have a thorn at
                      the tip and grows up to a height of4-5 feet.
                      These leaves yield valuable fibre.

                      Sisal is locally called as katthale & Bhoothale
                      its Botanical name is Agave sisalana and it is
                      locally available in Chamarajnagar dist. The
                      propagation happens by removing and re-
                      rooting the suckers.

                      Sisal fibre is a very strong, Lustrous natural
                      fibre and can take wear and tear very well.
        Sisal plant   Sisal is commonly used for marine ropes. Sisal
                      is the favorite world wide for floor coverings
                      it is the most preferred natural fibre due to
                      its clean smooth& shiny surface texture.

                      The most known application of sisal is ropes
                      for local use.
                                                                  5
India exports sisal floor covering products from
                          Kerala and all fibre is Imported from Tanzania
                          and china. Indian sisal is yet to gain its entry
                          Into the export market.

                          Sisal is being extracted in Ananthpur (AP),
                          Utharanchal, seoni (MP), Gokak (Karnataka)
                          & Kanyakumari (TN). Sisal is used for making
                          rops, cordage and twines.It’s also used for
                          making hub cleaning fancy brushes used in
                          bicycle.


Local use of Sisal rope




                                       Sisal fibre ready for use


                          Sisal fibre is available locally for Rs 10-15 per
                          kg.
                                                                        6
APPROACH FOR DESIGN INTERVENTION:

                           Since the number of artisans is more and the
                           skill levels are average, the initial efforts were
                           to introduce the concept of fineness, use of
                           spinning skills to produce finer yarns with sisal
                           fiber. .

                           The products should mainly be for the local
                           markets and exhibitions countrywide.

                           Using new techniques for the products, using
                           techniques that requires low skills and using
                           the colour combinations that appeal to the
                           masses, would be the most appropriate
                           approach for this workshop.

                           The blend of Sisal with other materials like
                           Banana bark , which is abundant in the
                           neighborhood, bamboo, Plastic rope which is
                           common packing material, and cotton yarns,
                           would give interesting results.

                           The use of the available technology for
                           spinning of sisal, and different method of
                           producing yarns would add more value to the
                           end products.

                           Various techniques like weaving, coiling ,
    Shades dyed in sisal   braiding and stitching can be put together in
                           order to get a novelty.

                                                                          7
NEW TECHNIQUES INTRODUCED IN THE WORKSHOP:

                        Fibre knotting :

                        This is the technique of getting a thin
                        continuous long length by knotting the fibres
                        together using a weavers knot. The
                        continuous long length then can be used for
                        producing a fine yarn that can later be used
                        for weaving, knitting or any such applications

      Fibre knotting    Fine Yarn making:

                        Using the knotted fibre in multiple ply a fine
                        yarn can be made by using a rope spinner .
                        This yarn has the strength and finish for use
                        in high value products like woven material,
                        floor and other interior woven fabrics.

                        The traditional way of hand spinning brought
                        back, to make the fine Sisal twines, suitable
                        for weaving and fine coiling.

                        Tie and Dye :

                        Sisal fibre is usually dyed with plain shades,
                        this is made more interesting with the
                        traditional Tie and Dye technique using rubber
                        tubes to tie the fibre bunch and dyeing to
                        achieve amazing tie – dyed effects.
     Fine yarn making



                                                                   8
Crochet:

                       Crochet using the dyed sisal fibre to form laces
                       and motifs for making bags and mats, belts.


                       Loom Weaving:

                       Using the simple handloom, and a sisal warp,
                       a simple structure was woven which is
                       suitable for bags and other accessories. In
                       the process a poly cotton warp was also tried
                       out and a screen was developed. This was to
                       initiate the weaving process and demonstrate
Crochet with fibres    the possibilities with weaving to the group.
                       The artisans were glad to see the new
                       possibility and wanted to adopt the weaving
                       technique to develop new products.




 Crochet using 4 ply



                                  Simple weaving on table loom
                                                                    9
Knitting:

                      Using the fine 4 ply yarn, knitting was tried
                      out and the outcome was highly interesting.
                      The fine delicate fabric that is produced is
                      good for the expensive gift bags and also
                      other natural fashion accessories.


                      Using the direct dyes six shades were produced
                      for the products and these shades were
                      engineered according to the colour trends.

                      The natural palette has been the basis of the
4 ply sisal knitted   shades and there are deep earth colours along
                      with some mineral accents.




 Yarn developed

                                  Tye dye using rubber tubes

                                                                10
DESIGN DEVELOPMENT:         The workshop stated with dyeing of fibre in
                            pre planned colurs and some techniques of
                            tie dye, using rubber cycle tubes was done.

                            Next the raw material was sorted out and the
                            artisans were asked to make fine hand twisted
                            twines and ropes.




 Raw material preparation



      Dyeing of fibre




                                       Hand spinning of Sisal twine
   Dyeing of Sisal fibre
                                                                      11
The task of achieving fine yarn was taken up
                              and induvidual fibres were knotted, and then
                              the knotted string of fibre was made into a
                              ball. four of such balls taken together, using
                              the normal rope making machine, a twine was
                              prepared. This twine is found to be most
                              suitable for Crochet and Knitting.
     Yarn developed




Hand spinning of fine twine



                                 Knotting of Fibres making a continuous strand

                              The fine 4 ply yarn makes the product look
                              very crisp and delicate. It also optimises the
                              use of fibre, almost all the fibre is used up in
                              this method.

                              Small products were tried out with the fine
                              yarn and it was seen that knitting and crochet
Crochet using the fine yarn   products look good and fresh.
                                                                                 12
The fibre strands seperated manually and then
                                 fed in to Medilary Charkha, also was tried out
                                 and it was seen that provided that the
                                 thickness is controlled, it is workable process
                                 for fibre conversion by Crochet.

                                 Six of the artisans are from Hampapura where
                                 Medileri Charkhas are in use and it has been
                                 adapted to sisal fibre spinning in this
                                 workshop.


Crochet using multiple strands




                                   Crochet using strands of Sisal seperated by hand

                                 The product making happened slowly and in
                                 the way, many experiments were done.
                                 Weaving was also tried out and using a Sisal
                                 4 ply and hand twisted thick twined warp ,Plain
                                 weaving was done. The outcome of this is an
                                 interesting fabric which in turn is good for
                                 making bags and table top items.

                                 Bags were made using the skills of the
  Weaving on polycot warp        artisans and medilery charkha for the yarn.
                                                                                  13
The table top loom Sisal yarn was woven in
                               warp and weft and the next set had Polycot
                               yarn in warp and sisal single strand twisted ,
                               Rope and braid in the weft.This made an
                               interesting fabric for Window screens.

                               New technique of using a U- Pin and
   Plaid and crochet bag       interlacining the twines for making bags and
                               footmats was tried out and it gave good
                               results. One design for bag and one design
                               for foot mat was made.

                               Using the ropes that are made on the rope
                               making machine, and coiling technique, some
                               ideas were tried out. An interesting bag was
                               made in this technique. Using crochet needle
                               and the machine made rope, coil coasters
                               were made. This however opened up a whole
                               lot of new possibilities. A combination of the
                               plaids and crochet was also done and a very
                               nice bag was made .




Making of twines for weaving                 Weaving with twines
                                                                         14
NEW PRODUCTS:




                      01                 02
         Cashew bag        Checker bag




                                              15
NEW PRODUCTS:




                       03              04
       Coil coasters        Foot mat




                                       16
NEW PRODUCTS:




                         05              06
            Gift Pouch        Gold bag




                                              17
NEW PRODUCTS:




                         07               08
            Fruit Bowl        Gypsy bag




                                               18
NEW PRODUCTS:




                        09               10
      Lace fruit Bowl        Oval tray




                                         19
NEW PRODUCTS:




                       11              12
         Punitha bag        Rope bag




                                       20
NEW PRODUCTS:




                       13                 14
       Coil Coasters        Money Purse




                                          21
NEW PRODUCTS:




                     15                16
         Plate Mat        Fruit Bowl




                                       22
NEW PRODUCTS:




                       17                 18
         Sunrise bag        ‘U’ pin bag



                                           23
NEW PRODUCTS:




                        19              20
        Window Screen        Lace bag



                                         24
PARTICIPANTS OF THE WORKSHOP:




  Mahadevamma,Sampathamma, Puttabasamma, Rajamma, Javanamma,
            Maramma, Prema, Jamuna, Saroja & Manjula.




                                 1



  Shobha, Ambika, Geetha, Asha, Raajmma, Puttataiamma, Bhagya, Prema,
                        Madhamma & Jayamma




 ChikkaHennamma, Chikkatayiamma,Mallajamma,Bhagya,Mahadevvamnma,
   Ratnamma,Gowramma,Basavarajamma,Mahadevamma,Bangaramma

                                                                    25
s.no. Name of the artisan             Village         Caste

1     Mahadevamma w/o Rachashetty     Tenkanamole     obc
2     Sampathammaw/o chikarangshetty Tenkanamole      obc
3     Puttabasammaw/o marisiddashetty Badagalamole    obc
4     Rajamma w/o siddaraju           Badgamole       obc
5     Javanamma w/o mahadevashetty    Badqagalamole   obc
6     Maramma w/o basavashetty        Badagalamole    obc
7     Prema w/o shivanna              Kuderu          SC
8     Jamuna w/o prabhuswamy          Kuderu          SC
9     Saroja w/o revanna              kuderu          SC
10    Manjula d/o javaraiah           kuderu          SC
11    Shobha D/o shivmalla            Kuderu          SC
12    Ambika D/o mallikarjuna         Kuderu          SC
13    Geetha d/o nagasundaramurthy    Kuderu          SC
14    Asha d/o chickkabasaiah         Kuderu          SC
15    Rajamma , w/o Mariswamy ,       Kuderu          SC
16    Puttataiamma , W/o Naganna      Nerale          OBC
17    Bhagya, D/o Madha Shetty        Nerale          OBC
18    Prema D/O Madhappa              Nrale           OBC
19    Madhamma W/O Doddashetty        Hampapura       OBC
20    Jayamma w/o shivegowda          Hampapura       OBC
21    ChikkaHennamma W/O SiddhegoudaHampapura         OBC
22    Chikkatayiamma W/O Nagegowda Hampapura          OBC
23    Mallajamma W/O Manohar          Honnur          SC
24    Bhagya w/o Linngaraju           Honnur          SC
25    Mahadevvamnmaw/oGovindegouda Hampapura          OBC
26    Ratnamma, W/O siddharaja shetty Hampapura       OBC
27.   Gowramma w/o mohadev settee     Thenkulmole     OBC
28.   Basavarajamma w/o siddarajsety  Thenkulmole     OBC
29    Mahadevamma w/o Siddesetty      Thenkulmole     OBC
30    Bangaramma w/o Doolosety        Thenkulmole     OBC


                                                      26
Conclusion:
                            All the 30 participants in the workshop, felt
                            that the workshop was very useful and they
                            would look forward to such development
                            interventions more often.

                            There were so many new products and
                            techniques were evolved. The learning of the
                            new techniques gave a new hope to the
                            artisans. The real potential was felt and the
                            crafts women felt that they can do much more
                            than they have been doing all these years.

                            Mass production at a lower cost; seems
                            possible with the use of new methods of hand
                            spinning, braiding, knotting and the like.
  Concluding Day function   The workshop concluded on a very happy note
                            Mr.K.S.Raghupathi,AGM, NABARD Chamarajanagar
                            ,was happy to see such good work done by
                            the participants.

                            Mr. S.C. Devaramani , Mr. Rajshekhar Narayan
                            (Consultant Designer),        and Mr. K.S.
                            Raghupathi, Mr. Seshaprasad, cluster
                            manager, IDPMS, MS. Padma Murthy, (knit and
                            Crochet expert), addressed the participants
                            and encouraged them on their efforts.

                            On the whole , the workshop was an eye
                            opener for the artisans and the feedback and
                            new requirements are continuously updated
                            to the Office of DC (Handicrafts).
                                                                      27
Recommendations:
                   1. The artisans are from the background of rope
                      making, and therefore it would be more
                      appropriate to develop and refine the skills
                      of spinning, fine twine making for these
                      artisans.
                   2. The demand for hand spun twines is good in
                      the domestic and the export market; therefore
                      it would be good if twines and yarns could be
                      the end products.
                   3. The medilary charkha is quite useful in twine
                      and fine cord making, and all the artisans
                      should be trained on it.
                   4. Sisal fibre lends itself very well to weaving
                      and basic floor covering structures should be
                      developed along with the fabrics for
                      accessories on simple looms.
                   5. The design workshop should be conducted at
                      least once in six months and it should be a
                      continuity of the last workshop, this would
                      ensure visible results.
                   6. Some products from the design workshop
                      should be selected for bulk production and
                      artisans should be advised to produce a stock
                      of the designs at least 24 pieces each design.
                      This would ensure that the products are tested
                      in the market and the groups have sufficient
                      stock of products whenever any fair is there.
                   7. There needs to be continual market support
                      programme that helps the artisans to produce
                      what market needs and have a continuous
                      flow of work.
                                                                28
ABOUT THE DESIGNER:
                      RAJSHEKHAR NARAYAN
                      87/133, Govindappa road, Basavanagudi .
                      Bangalore 560 004, Karnataka
                      India

                      E-Mail      :     studioadc@vsnl.net
                                        rsnarayan@vsnl.com

                      Telephone   :     080 6601024, 51203950

EDUCATION:

                      NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF DESIGN,
                      Ahmedabad
                      Post Graduate Diploma in Textile Design 1991

                      Indian Institute of Handloom Technology
                      Varanasi
                      Diploma in Handloom Technology 1988

                      Syed Burhanuddin S JQ College,
                      Burhanpur, M.P.
                      Bachelor of Science 1985 (two years)
SKILLS


                      Weaving, jacquard design, Jacquard weaving, print
                      designs, furnishing design, made-ups design, silk fabrics
                      design, visual Merchandising, sample photography, hand
                      and machine embroidery, interior space design, handicraft
                      design, curriculum for skill and design workshops,
                      Documentation and training.


                                                                           29
PROJECTS:   •   Survey of Natural Fibers in Kerala and
                Tamilnadu; a study in the Philippines and a
                exhaustive documentation of the outcome fol-
                lowed by a craft interface workshop to dis-
                seminate the findings of the survey and a
                foreign expert to teach new techniques to the
                craft groups. 1999

            •   Design and development of Sisal Fiber
                products; this project was for IDPMS working
                with the craft groups in Mysore and
                Chamarajanagar Districts of Karnataka. Skill
                up gradation training was an integral part of
                the project.1997

            •   Design Development for Natural fibre crafts
                at ICF, Bangalore 2001

            •   Development of designs for Palm leaf crafts
                at SHARE Vellore, 2001

            •   Development of designs for Jute Products
                at RDS Khanagaon, 2005

            •   Design Development for Screwpine crafts at
                KIDS, Kodangallur 2005

            •   Development of designs for Palm leaf crafts
                at CJWS, Nellore 2005

            •   Development of designs for Hand painting
                crafts at Naidupeta, 2005
                                                          30
Acknowledgement and credits:




Designer :               Rajshekhar Narayan



Design Assistants :     Mr. Srinivasulu.Y
                        Mr. Devaraj
                        Ms. Padma Murthy


MNSEC, Mysore:          Mr. S.C Devarmani, A.D.

NABARD,
Chamarajnagar:          Mr. K.S. Raghupathi, AGM


IDPMS :

                        Mr. S. Sadanand
                        Ms. Geetha
                        Mr. Sesha prasad
                        Ms. Parvati
                        Mr. Ramesh
                        Mr. Nagaraj
                        Mr. Siddhappa


                       And all the others at IDPMS
                                                     31
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Explore New Products from Sisal Fiber

  • 1.
  • 2. Contents 1. Introduction 1 2. Innaguration 2 3. About IDPMS 3 4. Sisal Fibre 5 5. Approach and Design intrevention 7 5. Design Workshop 8 6. Learning in the workshop 11 7. Products Developed 15 8. Participants 25 9. Conclusion 27 10. Recomendations 28 11. About Designer 29 12. Acknowledgements. 31
  • 3. BACKGROUND: The people of “Tenkal mole” and “Badagala mole” Near Kuderu, Chamarajanagar Dist, are mainly in to agricultural labor and in rope making craft. Sisal is abundantly available in the area and the people are involved in makig ropes to sell in the local weekly markets. These ropes are sold in bundles and are used for tieing cattle , bullock cart etc. The demand for sisal rope is limited and therefore the Badagala mole Village people have started making ropes from the plastic Cement bags. The Bags are ripped apart in strands and then the strands are spun into ropes that are approximately 8mm in diameter. Four of these ropes are twisted together to form a thick rope. In the villages, children and ladies are involved Ropemaking in Badagala mole in the stripping of strands and the spinning of rope is done by the men folk. This way it is a good team work and at the end of the day the women are able to earn Rs.15 to 25, and that is how the life goes on. The market now recognises the plastic rope and sisal is less and less to be seen in the markets. Ready plastic ropes 1
  • 4. INNAGURATION : Mr. S.C.Devaramani, A.D. MNSEC, Mysore, Mr. S.Sadananda, Director IDPMS, Mr. Seshaprasad, Cluster manager IDPMS, Mr. Chandrasekhar, ADS, Kuderu, Mr. Honappa, ADS, Kuderu, Mr. M.N.Mangalore SI & Designer Mr. Rajshekhar Narayan along with his team were present at the inaugural function at Kuderu, Chamarajnagar Dist, on 14 March 2005, at 11:30 am. Mr. Devarmani spoke about the new products and the opportunity to learn new things. He suggested that the participants should learn new skills and come up with new products. He pointed out the support provided by AHVY; Innaguration of the workshop a scheme for the SHG’s to generate income and contribute to the economic growth. Mr. S.Sadananda spoke to the participants about the purpose of the design development workshop and the results that are expected from it. He stressed on the need for a self reliance motto with in every women artisan. He spoke about the various programmes taken up by IDPMS , and the continual support of the artisans in the entire development programme . Mr. Sadananda thanked the DC (H) for providing such an effective Programme for the rural artisans. 2
  • 5. About IDPMS: IDPMS started functioning in 1988, and it as jointly established by the Govt. Of Karnataka and the Govt. of Netherlands. At the time it was known as Indo Dutch Project Management Society. IDPMS work ed with various development projects situated in Karnataka, and working through these projects, the organization gained experience and considerable knowledge and helped into its transformation into a resource organization. The array of knowledge includes issues for sustainable livelihood, Women empowerment, Information systems, Environment and conservation. IDPMS which truly means Initiatives for Development through Participation of Marginalized Sections, is committed to the economic growth of the rural poor. IDPMS has been instrumental in formation of Self help groups for the past 15 years. Mysore, Chamarajnagar, Bellary and Bidar, Havery and Gadag districts have been covered under the operations. 5300 women involved in over 335 Self Help Groups has been formed in the guidance of IDPMS. Existing products 3
  • 6. Presently more than 200 artisans in the sisal fiber craft , in and around Kuderumole in Chamarajanagar Dist, have been covered under this umbrella. • The current activities of IDPMS are: • Skill trainings and Design development activities in the field of Handicrafts • Training programme on Micro enterprise development, PRA, Personality Development etc, • Guidance to Micro Enterprise, • Formation of SHG’s and their successful operations, • Strengthening of the local support agencies ;Gram panchayat, ngo’s etc. • Networking of SHG’s, • Establishing access to formal credit organizations, • Training and orientation of banking Personnel. • Market related services; linkages, up scaling of enterprises operations, • Gender sensitization programme, • Technology Development and Data Bank Services, • Income generation activities in craft areas, and other activities. • Monitoring,Evaluation and Documentation. Existing products • Councilling for enterprise activities. 4
  • 7. SISAL FIBRE: Agriculture is the main source of livelihood in and around Kuderu.Sisal fibre is a large genius of short stemmed, woody plants bearing a rosette of long, erect, pointed, fleshy leaves. About 275 pieces are distributed in tropical regions. The Portuguese introduced agave in India in the 15 th century. They are completely naturalized throughout the country. Sisal is grown in widely in India. It is small greenish gray hedge plant. The leaves have a thorn at the tip and grows up to a height of4-5 feet. These leaves yield valuable fibre. Sisal is locally called as katthale & Bhoothale its Botanical name is Agave sisalana and it is locally available in Chamarajnagar dist. The propagation happens by removing and re- rooting the suckers. Sisal fibre is a very strong, Lustrous natural fibre and can take wear and tear very well. Sisal plant Sisal is commonly used for marine ropes. Sisal is the favorite world wide for floor coverings it is the most preferred natural fibre due to its clean smooth& shiny surface texture. The most known application of sisal is ropes for local use. 5
  • 8. India exports sisal floor covering products from Kerala and all fibre is Imported from Tanzania and china. Indian sisal is yet to gain its entry Into the export market. Sisal is being extracted in Ananthpur (AP), Utharanchal, seoni (MP), Gokak (Karnataka) & Kanyakumari (TN). Sisal is used for making rops, cordage and twines.It’s also used for making hub cleaning fancy brushes used in bicycle. Local use of Sisal rope Sisal fibre ready for use Sisal fibre is available locally for Rs 10-15 per kg. 6
  • 9. APPROACH FOR DESIGN INTERVENTION: Since the number of artisans is more and the skill levels are average, the initial efforts were to introduce the concept of fineness, use of spinning skills to produce finer yarns with sisal fiber. . The products should mainly be for the local markets and exhibitions countrywide. Using new techniques for the products, using techniques that requires low skills and using the colour combinations that appeal to the masses, would be the most appropriate approach for this workshop. The blend of Sisal with other materials like Banana bark , which is abundant in the neighborhood, bamboo, Plastic rope which is common packing material, and cotton yarns, would give interesting results. The use of the available technology for spinning of sisal, and different method of producing yarns would add more value to the end products. Various techniques like weaving, coiling , Shades dyed in sisal braiding and stitching can be put together in order to get a novelty. 7
  • 10. NEW TECHNIQUES INTRODUCED IN THE WORKSHOP: Fibre knotting : This is the technique of getting a thin continuous long length by knotting the fibres together using a weavers knot. The continuous long length then can be used for producing a fine yarn that can later be used for weaving, knitting or any such applications Fibre knotting Fine Yarn making: Using the knotted fibre in multiple ply a fine yarn can be made by using a rope spinner . This yarn has the strength and finish for use in high value products like woven material, floor and other interior woven fabrics. The traditional way of hand spinning brought back, to make the fine Sisal twines, suitable for weaving and fine coiling. Tie and Dye : Sisal fibre is usually dyed with plain shades, this is made more interesting with the traditional Tie and Dye technique using rubber tubes to tie the fibre bunch and dyeing to achieve amazing tie – dyed effects. Fine yarn making 8
  • 11. Crochet: Crochet using the dyed sisal fibre to form laces and motifs for making bags and mats, belts. Loom Weaving: Using the simple handloom, and a sisal warp, a simple structure was woven which is suitable for bags and other accessories. In the process a poly cotton warp was also tried out and a screen was developed. This was to initiate the weaving process and demonstrate Crochet with fibres the possibilities with weaving to the group. The artisans were glad to see the new possibility and wanted to adopt the weaving technique to develop new products. Crochet using 4 ply Simple weaving on table loom 9
  • 12. Knitting: Using the fine 4 ply yarn, knitting was tried out and the outcome was highly interesting. The fine delicate fabric that is produced is good for the expensive gift bags and also other natural fashion accessories. Using the direct dyes six shades were produced for the products and these shades were engineered according to the colour trends. The natural palette has been the basis of the 4 ply sisal knitted shades and there are deep earth colours along with some mineral accents. Yarn developed Tye dye using rubber tubes 10
  • 13. DESIGN DEVELOPMENT: The workshop stated with dyeing of fibre in pre planned colurs and some techniques of tie dye, using rubber cycle tubes was done. Next the raw material was sorted out and the artisans were asked to make fine hand twisted twines and ropes. Raw material preparation Dyeing of fibre Hand spinning of Sisal twine Dyeing of Sisal fibre 11
  • 14. The task of achieving fine yarn was taken up and induvidual fibres were knotted, and then the knotted string of fibre was made into a ball. four of such balls taken together, using the normal rope making machine, a twine was prepared. This twine is found to be most suitable for Crochet and Knitting. Yarn developed Hand spinning of fine twine Knotting of Fibres making a continuous strand The fine 4 ply yarn makes the product look very crisp and delicate. It also optimises the use of fibre, almost all the fibre is used up in this method. Small products were tried out with the fine yarn and it was seen that knitting and crochet Crochet using the fine yarn products look good and fresh. 12
  • 15. The fibre strands seperated manually and then fed in to Medilary Charkha, also was tried out and it was seen that provided that the thickness is controlled, it is workable process for fibre conversion by Crochet. Six of the artisans are from Hampapura where Medileri Charkhas are in use and it has been adapted to sisal fibre spinning in this workshop. Crochet using multiple strands Crochet using strands of Sisal seperated by hand The product making happened slowly and in the way, many experiments were done. Weaving was also tried out and using a Sisal 4 ply and hand twisted thick twined warp ,Plain weaving was done. The outcome of this is an interesting fabric which in turn is good for making bags and table top items. Bags were made using the skills of the Weaving on polycot warp artisans and medilery charkha for the yarn. 13
  • 16. The table top loom Sisal yarn was woven in warp and weft and the next set had Polycot yarn in warp and sisal single strand twisted , Rope and braid in the weft.This made an interesting fabric for Window screens. New technique of using a U- Pin and Plaid and crochet bag interlacining the twines for making bags and footmats was tried out and it gave good results. One design for bag and one design for foot mat was made. Using the ropes that are made on the rope making machine, and coiling technique, some ideas were tried out. An interesting bag was made in this technique. Using crochet needle and the machine made rope, coil coasters were made. This however opened up a whole lot of new possibilities. A combination of the plaids and crochet was also done and a very nice bag was made . Making of twines for weaving Weaving with twines 14
  • 17. NEW PRODUCTS: 01 02 Cashew bag Checker bag 15
  • 18. NEW PRODUCTS: 03 04 Coil coasters Foot mat 16
  • 19. NEW PRODUCTS: 05 06 Gift Pouch Gold bag 17
  • 20. NEW PRODUCTS: 07 08 Fruit Bowl Gypsy bag 18
  • 21. NEW PRODUCTS: 09 10 Lace fruit Bowl Oval tray 19
  • 22. NEW PRODUCTS: 11 12 Punitha bag Rope bag 20
  • 23. NEW PRODUCTS: 13 14 Coil Coasters Money Purse 21
  • 24. NEW PRODUCTS: 15 16 Plate Mat Fruit Bowl 22
  • 25. NEW PRODUCTS: 17 18 Sunrise bag ‘U’ pin bag 23
  • 26. NEW PRODUCTS: 19 20 Window Screen Lace bag 24
  • 27. PARTICIPANTS OF THE WORKSHOP: Mahadevamma,Sampathamma, Puttabasamma, Rajamma, Javanamma, Maramma, Prema, Jamuna, Saroja & Manjula. 1 Shobha, Ambika, Geetha, Asha, Raajmma, Puttataiamma, Bhagya, Prema, Madhamma & Jayamma ChikkaHennamma, Chikkatayiamma,Mallajamma,Bhagya,Mahadevvamnma, Ratnamma,Gowramma,Basavarajamma,Mahadevamma,Bangaramma 25
  • 28. s.no. Name of the artisan Village Caste 1 Mahadevamma w/o Rachashetty Tenkanamole obc 2 Sampathammaw/o chikarangshetty Tenkanamole obc 3 Puttabasammaw/o marisiddashetty Badagalamole obc 4 Rajamma w/o siddaraju Badgamole obc 5 Javanamma w/o mahadevashetty Badqagalamole obc 6 Maramma w/o basavashetty Badagalamole obc 7 Prema w/o shivanna Kuderu SC 8 Jamuna w/o prabhuswamy Kuderu SC 9 Saroja w/o revanna kuderu SC 10 Manjula d/o javaraiah kuderu SC 11 Shobha D/o shivmalla Kuderu SC 12 Ambika D/o mallikarjuna Kuderu SC 13 Geetha d/o nagasundaramurthy Kuderu SC 14 Asha d/o chickkabasaiah Kuderu SC 15 Rajamma , w/o Mariswamy , Kuderu SC 16 Puttataiamma , W/o Naganna Nerale OBC 17 Bhagya, D/o Madha Shetty Nerale OBC 18 Prema D/O Madhappa Nrale OBC 19 Madhamma W/O Doddashetty Hampapura OBC 20 Jayamma w/o shivegowda Hampapura OBC 21 ChikkaHennamma W/O SiddhegoudaHampapura OBC 22 Chikkatayiamma W/O Nagegowda Hampapura OBC 23 Mallajamma W/O Manohar Honnur SC 24 Bhagya w/o Linngaraju Honnur SC 25 Mahadevvamnmaw/oGovindegouda Hampapura OBC 26 Ratnamma, W/O siddharaja shetty Hampapura OBC 27. Gowramma w/o mohadev settee Thenkulmole OBC 28. Basavarajamma w/o siddarajsety Thenkulmole OBC 29 Mahadevamma w/o Siddesetty Thenkulmole OBC 30 Bangaramma w/o Doolosety Thenkulmole OBC 26
  • 29. Conclusion: All the 30 participants in the workshop, felt that the workshop was very useful and they would look forward to such development interventions more often. There were so many new products and techniques were evolved. The learning of the new techniques gave a new hope to the artisans. The real potential was felt and the crafts women felt that they can do much more than they have been doing all these years. Mass production at a lower cost; seems possible with the use of new methods of hand spinning, braiding, knotting and the like. Concluding Day function The workshop concluded on a very happy note Mr.K.S.Raghupathi,AGM, NABARD Chamarajanagar ,was happy to see such good work done by the participants. Mr. S.C. Devaramani , Mr. Rajshekhar Narayan (Consultant Designer), and Mr. K.S. Raghupathi, Mr. Seshaprasad, cluster manager, IDPMS, MS. Padma Murthy, (knit and Crochet expert), addressed the participants and encouraged them on their efforts. On the whole , the workshop was an eye opener for the artisans and the feedback and new requirements are continuously updated to the Office of DC (Handicrafts). 27
  • 30. Recommendations: 1. The artisans are from the background of rope making, and therefore it would be more appropriate to develop and refine the skills of spinning, fine twine making for these artisans. 2. The demand for hand spun twines is good in the domestic and the export market; therefore it would be good if twines and yarns could be the end products. 3. The medilary charkha is quite useful in twine and fine cord making, and all the artisans should be trained on it. 4. Sisal fibre lends itself very well to weaving and basic floor covering structures should be developed along with the fabrics for accessories on simple looms. 5. The design workshop should be conducted at least once in six months and it should be a continuity of the last workshop, this would ensure visible results. 6. Some products from the design workshop should be selected for bulk production and artisans should be advised to produce a stock of the designs at least 24 pieces each design. This would ensure that the products are tested in the market and the groups have sufficient stock of products whenever any fair is there. 7. There needs to be continual market support programme that helps the artisans to produce what market needs and have a continuous flow of work. 28
  • 31. ABOUT THE DESIGNER: RAJSHEKHAR NARAYAN 87/133, Govindappa road, Basavanagudi . Bangalore 560 004, Karnataka India E-Mail : studioadc@vsnl.net rsnarayan@vsnl.com Telephone : 080 6601024, 51203950 EDUCATION: NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF DESIGN, Ahmedabad Post Graduate Diploma in Textile Design 1991 Indian Institute of Handloom Technology Varanasi Diploma in Handloom Technology 1988 Syed Burhanuddin S JQ College, Burhanpur, M.P. Bachelor of Science 1985 (two years) SKILLS Weaving, jacquard design, Jacquard weaving, print designs, furnishing design, made-ups design, silk fabrics design, visual Merchandising, sample photography, hand and machine embroidery, interior space design, handicraft design, curriculum for skill and design workshops, Documentation and training. 29
  • 32. PROJECTS: • Survey of Natural Fibers in Kerala and Tamilnadu; a study in the Philippines and a exhaustive documentation of the outcome fol- lowed by a craft interface workshop to dis- seminate the findings of the survey and a foreign expert to teach new techniques to the craft groups. 1999 • Design and development of Sisal Fiber products; this project was for IDPMS working with the craft groups in Mysore and Chamarajanagar Districts of Karnataka. Skill up gradation training was an integral part of the project.1997 • Design Development for Natural fibre crafts at ICF, Bangalore 2001 • Development of designs for Palm leaf crafts at SHARE Vellore, 2001 • Development of designs for Jute Products at RDS Khanagaon, 2005 • Design Development for Screwpine crafts at KIDS, Kodangallur 2005 • Development of designs for Palm leaf crafts at CJWS, Nellore 2005 • Development of designs for Hand painting crafts at Naidupeta, 2005 30
  • 33. Acknowledgement and credits: Designer : Rajshekhar Narayan Design Assistants : Mr. Srinivasulu.Y Mr. Devaraj Ms. Padma Murthy MNSEC, Mysore: Mr. S.C Devarmani, A.D. NABARD, Chamarajnagar: Mr. K.S. Raghupathi, AGM IDPMS : Mr. S. Sadanand Ms. Geetha Mr. Sesha prasad Ms. Parvati Mr. Ramesh Mr. Nagaraj Mr. Siddhappa And all the others at IDPMS 31