Understanding ‘Un-round’ diamonds and their possibilities. Typically known as fancy shape diamonds. Creating new design possibilities and opening up the world of diamond jewellery.

1. Innovation through diamond shapes
Understanding ‘Un-round’ diamonds and their possibilities
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2. ‘Un-rounds’- Opening up new possibilities
• Un-round diamonds= diamonds other than the round brilliant cut
• Typically known as fancy shape diamonds
• Creating new design possibilities and opening up the world of
diamond jewellery
• Helps address some of the challenges we face today
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3. Some popular Un-rounds
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4. Current jewellery
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5. Un-rounds- creating new design
possibilities
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6. Un-rounds- creating new design
possibilities
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7. Un-rounds- creating new design
possibilities
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8. Some challenges faced today
1. Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation?
2. Fast changing global trends- how to keep up?
3. Wealth divide- rich becoming richer- how to keep
satisfying their needs
4. Increasing material prices- how to create value for
jewellery buyers?
5. Retail clutter reducing margins- how to create more
breathing space?
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9. Some challenges faced today
1. Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation?
2. Fast changing global trends- how to keep up?
3. Wealth divide- rich becoming richer- how to keep
satisfying their needs
4. Increasing material prices- how to create value for
jewellery buyers?
5. Retail clutter reducing margins- how to create more
breathing space?
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10. Un-rounds: for the contemporary
younger generation
• Helps expand design possibilities that suit the contemporary, young and well styled generation
• Give much wider choice, ability to choose from many different shapes to suit the desired look. Gives them
power to differentiate rather than buying generic and traditional round diamond based jewellery only
• New generation is more knowledgeable and well informed about diamonds. For eg. ‘I want a princess cut
only’

11. Some challenges faced today
1. Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation?
2. Fast changing global trends- how to keep up?
3. Wealth divide- rich becoming richer- how to keep
satisfying their needs
4. Increasing material prices- how to create value for
jewellery buyers?
5. Retail clutter reducing margins- how to create more
breathing space?
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12. Global fashion trends and designs
using Un-Rounds
Harry Winston Tanishq
•High usage of fancy shapes in the western world, fast catching up in India
•New design genres and styles are being used in jewellery for e.g ‘Art Deco’, using the possibilities of
Unround diamonds
•Prominence already seen in North, East and West India. Rising popularity in South India too

13. Some challenges faced today
1. Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation?
2. Fast changing global trends- how to keep up?
3. Wealth divide- rich becoming richer- how to keep
satisfying their needs
4. Increasing material prices- how to create value for
jewellery buyers?
5. Retail clutter reducing margins- how to create more
breathing space?
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14. Un-rounds: Fabulous additions to
existing jewellery collections of the elite class
•India is facing a wealth divide with the rich becoming richer.
•Already have a lot of round diamond jewellery, still continuing to spend year on year.
•‘Un-rounds’ providing a lot of options for the second, third buys and so on
•Example: Multiple stack of single line bangles in different shapes, solitaires and so on

15. Some challenges faced today
1. Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation?
2. Fast changing global trends- how to keep up?
3. Wealth divide- rich becoming richer- how to keep
satisfying their needs
4. Increasing material prices- how to create value for
jewellery buyers?
5. Retail clutter reducing margins- how to create more
breathing space?
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16. Un-rounds: helping create value propositions
for buyers
Emeralds Single Line bangle
Round Brilliant Single Line bangle
50 pntrs- FGH VVS
50 pntrs- FGH VVS
Rs 18,00,000/- approx
Rs 24,00,000/- Approx
•Increasing material prices in diamonds and gold affecting customer purchasing power
•Un-rounds available at a much better value than rounds: some shapes are approx 35-40 percent
cheaper than rounds
•Unround jewellery therefore giving a much better value for a bigger look than round diamonds
•Helps value buyers adopt diamond jewellery more easily

17. Some challenges faced today
1. Relevance of our retail brands for the new generation?
2. Fast changing global trends- how to keep up?
3. Wealth divide- rich becoming richer- how to keep
satisfying their needs
4. Increasing material prices- how to create value for
jewellery buyers?
5. Retail clutter reducing margins- how to create more
breathing space?
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18. Un-rounds: Helping retailers increase
profitability
Hazoorilal Jewellers
•Competition over one shape has reduced margins for most retailers
•Using multiple diamond shapes reduces the comparison ability of the consumer with
competition, thus giving more legroom for margin
•With high round prices Un-rounds are in much better value, and thus allow more scope for
increased profitability

19. Categorization of Un-rounds

20. Princess Cut
Technical details
L/W ratio 1.00-1.05
Total Depth 65% - 75%
Pavilion Angle (in degrees) 39-41
Crown Angle 30-38
Girdle Thickness 1% - 5%
Light return Stereo (Helium 87%-89%
Data)
History & Key features
Founder/Year The Barion cut was the forerunner of the Princess cut.. It was invented by Basil Watermeyer of
Johannesburg. Another similar cut was designed by Arpad Nagy a London cutter in 1961, which
started to be referred to as the ‘Princess Cut’. The same name and shape was later used and made
popular by Ygal Perlman, Betzalel Ambar, and Israel Itzkowitz in Israel in 1979.
Design description The princess cut is sometimes referred to as a square modified brilliant, while displaying the same
high degree of brilliance, its faceting style is quite unique and completely different from that of a
round brilliant.
Its chevron-shaped facets in the pavilion combine to give a distinct cross-shaped reflection when the
stone is viewed directly through the table.
Effectively, the Princess cut combines the high degree of light return of a round brilliant cut with a
distinctive square or rectangular shape
Popular jewellery Solitaire rings, studs, 4-5-6 stone invisible setting illusion jewellery, ‘art deco’ style jewellery
applications in the world
Famous pieces/Key David Chase of Chase Bank, USA, gifted his wife, a $1 million necklace set made of 400 crts of princess
celebrities cuts, each individually linked to form a large carpet. The entire suite was purchased through Neiman
Marcus in LA.
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21. Modern - with an edge

22. Emerald Cut
Technical details
No of facets 58
L/W ratio 1.35-1.5
Total Depth 60-70
Girdle Thickness 3% - 5%
Light return Stereo (Helium) 72-75%
History & Key features
Founder/Year The Emerald shape diamond received its name when a diamond cutter chose to cut a diamond in a
rectangular shape step cut which was more popular for cutting green Emeralds (color stones). That’s
why its been called the emerald cut.
Design description It’s a rectangular cut with "stepped" facets, which means the facets resemble steps on a staircase.
The Emerald cut provides for a very elegant classic look and is known for its long lines. The pavilion
(bottom portion of the stone) is cut with large rectangular facets to create an open effect or optical
appearance.
Popular jewellery Historically emerald cuts have been very popular in antique Indian jewellery. Popular in both simple
applications in the world and elaborate ring settings. Its classic look has been capitalized in bigger sets to add contrast, as its
strength is the subtle and simple design.
Famous pieces/Key The most famous emerald cut was the Darya-I-Nur was renowned throughout the world to be the
celebrities world’s largest pink colored diamond weighing 195 crts.
Prince Rainier of Monaco wooed Grace Kelly with a 12 crt emerald cut diamond surrounded with
diamond baguettes
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23. Classic
J.F.Kennedy’s gift to Jackie Bouvier from Van Cleef & Arpels

24. Radiant Cut
Technical details
No of facets 70
L/W ratio 1.18-1.25
Total Depth 70-75
Pavilion Angle (in degrees) 38-41
Crown Angle 32-38
Girdle Thickness 3%-7%
Light return Stereo (Helium Data) 90% -93%
History & Key features
Founder/Year Henry Grossbard perfected the modern Radiant shape diamond in 1977
Design description The Radiant has the brilliance and fire of the traditional Round Brilliant but the shape of the Emerald
cut. The Radiant was designed with 70 facets for the maximum amount of brilliance. It has cropped
corners and is often slightly more rectangular over square shaped.
Popular jewellery Engagement rings, contemporary and modern styled jewellery
applications in the world
Famous pieces/Key Hilary Duff, Brooke Mueller and Khloe Kardashian have all received radiant-cut diamond engagement
celebrities rings
Jennifer Lopez's well-known Bennifer ring has a pink radiant cut diamond.
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25. Contemporary
Contemporary

26. Asscher Cut
Technical details
No of facets 65
L/W ratio 1-1.04
Total Depth 65% - 75%
Girdle Thickness 3% - 7%
Light return Stereo (Helium) 72-73%
History & Key features
Founder/Year The Asscher shape diamond was developed in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Holland and is a
variation of an Emerald cut.
Design description The Asscher cut is a stepped square cut also known as a Modified Square Emerald cut. This cut
offers a small table (largest facet on a stone) high crown (top portion of the stone) deep pavilions
(lower portion of the stone), and cut corners
Popular jewellery Used in solitaire rings, single line bangles or in contrast with other square shaped stones
applications in the world
Famous pieces/Key Kate Hudson and Reese Witherspoon received much talked about asscher cut engagement rings
celebrities
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27. Stylish
Courtesy: Daniel K Diamonds

28. Marquise
Technical details
No Of Facets 57
Total Depth 60%-66%
Girdle Thickness 3% - 5%
Light return Stereo 75% - 77%
(Helium)
L/W ratio 1.9-2.10
History & Key features
Founder/Year It is believed that the Sun King, Louis the XIV wanted a diamond to be cut like the smile of his
mistress, Marquise de Pompadour, so he commissioned a jeweler to cut it for him.
Design description The Marquise cut resembles a classic style boat when viewed from above.
The crown (top portion of the stone above the girdle), pavilion (bottom portion of the stone below
the girdle), and table (largest facet on a stone) are cut in rectangular facets.
The Marquise is bright, clear, and has a great deal of sparkle because the facets span the length or
width of the stone and decrease, as they get closer to the table.
Popular jewellery Used in classic styled jewellery. Very popular in India in the traditional flower and leaf motifs in
applications in the world necklace spreads, hand wear and so on.
Famous pieces/Key Catherine Zeta Jones received a marquise diamond engagement ring from Michael Douglas
celebrities

29. Heritage

30. Ovals
Technical details
No Of Facets 56
Total Depth 61%-65%
Girdle Thickness 2% -5%
Light return Stereo (Helium) 75% -77%
L/W ratio 1.3-1.4
History & Key features
Founder/Year Lazare Kaplan created the modern day Oval shaped diamond (modified brilliant version) in the early
1960s. It is a variation of the Round Brilliant and, with its 56 facets, is full of brilliance and fire.
Popularized by Lazare Kaplan in the early 1960’s
Design description The Oval cut is an adaptation of the Round Brilliant and usually looks larger than a round stone of
the same carat weight. It is a great alternative for someone wanting the look of the Round Brilliant,
but also looking for something a little different. The length of the Oval accentuates long slender
fingers.
Popular jewellery The oval cut has since history been in the proud possession of Rajas and Moghul emperors. It may
applications in the world have been set in the famous Peacock Throne made for Shah Jahan. Popular jewellery application
today has been in large necklaces, bangles and bracelets today
Famous pieces/Key Katie Holmes and Victoria Beckham
celebrities

31. The Kohinoor Diamond (Oval
Shape)
Royal

32. Hearts
Technical details
No Of Facets 58
Total Depth 55%-60%
Girdle Thickness 2% -5%
Light return Stereo (Helium) 85%-87%
L/W ratio 0.9-1
History & Key features
Founder/Year Has been traced back to the medieval ages sometime in the 1400’s. During this time different
techniques and style cuts such as the Heart were developed.
Design description The Heart is the ultimate symbol of love and is known as the most romantic of all shaped diamonds.
The Heart cut diamond is essentially a Pear shaped diamond with a cleft at the top.
Popular jewellery Used most in rings and earring studs due to its symbolic shape. Today used in other categories also
applications in the world along with other shapes also.

33. Neil lane
Romance

34. Pears
Technical details
No Of Facets 58
Total Depth 58%-65%
Girdle Thickness 2% -5%
Light return Stereo 70%-73%
(Helium)
L/W ratio 1.45-1.7
History & Key features
Founder/Year The Pear shape diamond (aka Teardrop) was highly popular during the Renaissance period. Lodewyk
(Louis) van Berquem of Brugge of Belgium created the first Pear cut diamond in 1458.
Design description A Pear cut diamond is a half Oval and half Marquise. The stone is pointed at one end and rounded
on the other. Also called the Tear drop, because of its shape, whose beauty may have brought tears
to many-a-eye.
Popular jewellery Small sizes are used in India in floral designs along with marquise in necklaces, bangles and bracelets.
applications in the world Also in slightly larger sizes has been very popular in drop-earrings and pendants due to its shape.
Elegant in a large solitaire ring also.
Famous pieces/Key Called the most romantic gift of modern times- the 69 crt pear shape diamond which Richard Burton
celebrities placed on Elizabeth Taylors hand when she agreed to marry him

35. Emotions

36. Cushions
Technical details
No Of Facets 61
Total Depth 69%- 74%
Girdle Thickness 2% -7.5%
Light return Stereo 92%-96%
(Helium)
L/W ratio 1.00-1.05 (sometimes longer rectangular cut styles
also accepted)
History & Key features
Founder/Year The Cushion shape is an antique cut that resembles a cross between an Old Mine cut (a deep cut with large facets)
common in the late 19th Century, early 20th Century and a modern Oval cut. . The first cushion cut diamond was
created almost 200 years ago, the cut has gone through some very much needed refinements and this has led to a
recent resurgence in popularity
Design A four sided deep square or rectangle cut with rounded edges and large facets - it has a cushioned shaped girdle. The
description cut is usually multi-faceted to give the highest possible light refraction and is therefore especially suited for
candlelight. It filters a large volume of returning light, which makes it one of the most brilliant and sparkling diamond
cuts
Popular The most popular style engagement ring is a diamond solitaire, the cuts include the Cushion cut diamond solitaire.
jewellery The solitaire design was introduced by Tiffany about 100 years ago
applications in
the world
Famous pieces/ Britney Spears bought for herself 4 carat cushion-cut diamond ring with a platinum pave setting.
Key celebrities Brooke Shields antique Cushion Diamond Ring set in the platinum.
Ashley Judd had a 3.00 carat Cushion cut Ring

37. Elegance
Daniel K

38. Comparative Light/Fire ratios (from a test sample)
Shape Light Return Stereo (Helium)
Round 93-97%
Princess 87-89%
Radiant 90 -93%
Cushion 92-96%
Oval 75 -77%
Pear 70-73%
Marquise 75 - 77%
Heart 85-87%
Emerald 72-75%
Asscher 72-73%

39. Some consumer misconceptions
• Diamonds are Round! (Or only Rounds are
diamonds)
• Fancy shapes are not as safe investments as
round brilliants
• As fancy shapes are cheaper they are
inferior
• Rounds are better than fancy shapes as they
are more brilliant
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40. Consumer misconceptions
1. Diamonds are Round! (Or only Rounds are
diamonds)
– Lack of knowledge and awareness
– Preconditioning
– Diamonds are actually not fixed to any single shape. They
are cut according to the shape of the rough and the
inclusions present
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41. Consumer misconceptions
2. Fancy shapes are not as safe investments as
round brilliants
– They are made of the same material regardless
of their shape
– Fundamental investment value the same
– Market forces and demand supply only
determine price volatility
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42. Consumer misconceptions
3. As fancy shapes are cheaper they are
inferior
– Fancy shapes are cheaper as they are more
efficient from certain rough types when
compared to Rounds
– Edged fancies are cut from rough which is
crystal based, thus being more suitable while
curved fancies from slightly longer rough shapes
– For eg. from a fine crystal rough of 1.00 crt a
princess cut would give 0.75 cts whereas a round
would give 0.50 cts
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43. Consumer misconceptions
4. Rounds are better than fancy shapes as they
are more brilliant
– Diamonds cannot be judged by brilliance alone
– Same like human beings, brilliance (IQ) is not
the only success factor
– The importance of character and form in
designing and creativity (shape, luster, contrast,
design etc)
– Eg. Emerald cut which is low in brilliance but
high in terms of character with its reflective
open light flow, and is still very popular
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44. Some examples
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45. Some examples
De Beers

46. Some examples

47. Introduction to Fabulous
Unrounds
• One of the core collections of Fabjewels Pvt Ltd
• A joint venture by H.Dipak & Co and the KBS Group
• H.Dipak & Co is the worlds largest manufacturer and distributor of the
princess cut diamond and other fancy shapes employing over 30oo people and
based in Mumbai and Gujarat
• KBS Group is leading jewellery manufacturer specializing in bridal jewellery
to major retailers across the world. One of the top 3 exporters from Seepz.
• Fabulous Unrounds is a category, that includes exquisitely finished jewellery
created using Unround diamonds ranging from essentials to high end bridal
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48. Fabulous Unrounds
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49. Fabulous Unrounds
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50. Fabulous Unrounds
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51. Fabulous Unrounds
Contact:
Ankit Mehta: 9820785355
Hardesh Jain: 9820668551
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52. Can I learn about ‘Unrounds’ in a Details
YES
At IIJ, we include the study of fancy shapes
Courses that include the fancy shapes are:
IIJP Gem Masters Program
Master Diamond Grader